iwc portuguese yacht club chronograph rose gold

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Model #: iw390501 IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph 43.5mm Mens Watch

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• Soldi 18kt rose gold case with fine brushed finished edges & polished finished bezel ring & lugs.
• Silver main dial.
• Slightly recessed silver sub-dials.
• Applied polished rose gold toned Arabic Numeral hour markers.
• Applied polished rose gold toned rimmed index hour markers with luminous fill.
• Fine printed minute track.
• Polished rose gold toned hands, hours & minutes hands with luminous fill.
• Silvered flange at the perimeter of the dial with fine printed seconds & fractions of a second indication for the stopwatch/chronograph.
• Small running seconds sub-dial at the 6 o'clock position.
• Date window displayed at the 3 o'clock position.
• Chronograph/Stopwatch function:
• Large red central seconds counter.
• The sub-dial at the 12 o'clock position doubles as both the chronograph 60 minute counter (longer hand pointing to outer diameter) & the 12 hour counter (short hand pointing to marking on inner diameter), allowing for an easy & instant reading of the stopwatch.
• Features a "Flyback" function, which allows instant restarting of the chronograph with a single push of the button instead of the need to stop, reset & then restart the stop-watch.
• IWC calibre 89361, beats at 28,800 vph, contains 38 jewels & has an approximate power reserve of 68 hours.

Alternate model # iw3905-01, 390501, 3905-01

Mens iwc iw390501 portugieser yacht club chronograph 43.5mm watch.

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IWC iw390501 Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph 43.5mm

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The New IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (Live Pics & Pricing)

A larger case, subtle design tweaks and a new bracelet for the most nautical portugieser in the collection..

A decade after its maiden voyage, the third-generation Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (Ref. 3907) sails into port. The novelties are a larger case size, the relocation of the date window, some fine-tuning on the dial and a new metal bracelet. Still ticking to the tune of in-house automatic calibre 89361 with a flyback function and a unique chronograph display using one dial to indicate elapsed hours and minutes, the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph comes in three iterations. The sportiest of the Portugieser family, the latest revamp of the Yacht Club has notched up the dress factor of the watch considerably. Just ahead of the official Watches & Wonders digital launch, we were able to spend some time with these three models.

Brief History of the Yacht Club

The Yacht Club, as we know it today, made its debut in 2010. However, there was a 1967 Yacht Club antecedent. This first Yacht Club (Ref. 811) was a three-hand and date model with an extremely robust shock-absorption system and marketed as a sporty alternative to the Ingenieur. Ten years later, in the midst of the quartz crisis, designer Gerald Genta turned his hand to the Yacht Club II and fitted it with an octagonal bezel. Only a few thousand mechanical pieces were produced converting them into a coveted collector’s item.

Revived in 2010, the Yacht Club became a part of the Portugieser family and was endowed with a sophisticated flyback chronograph movement based on the first manufacture chronograph movement (83960) to be developed in its entirety in Schaffhausen in 2007. As a flyback chronograph, you can stop, reset and start the chrono functions with one button – designed to record consecutive events without having to sacrifice valuable seconds. The particularity of this flyback chronograph was the display: instead of two individual counters for the elapsed hours and minutes, these were housed in one single sub-dial at 12 o’clock reserving the second sub-dial at 6 o’clock for the running seconds.

Although the Portugieser line is not populated by sports watches, the incorporation of the Yacht Club made sense; if you recall, the first 1939 Portugieser was, in fact, a downsized nautical marine chronometer made at the behest of two Portuguese businessmen who wanted the precision of a marine chronometer in wristwatch format.

As a sports watch with a nautical theme, the 2010 Yacht Club came with 60m water-resistance and crown protectors along with pushers shaped like bollards. The watch also sported luminous hands and markers. However, as a member of the elite Portugieser family, it displayed hallmark traits like the large 45.4mm round case, the railroad minutes track, the elegant leaf-shaped hands and the applied Arabic numerals.

3Rd-Gen IWC Portugieser Yacht Club

Over the past ten years, the case size of the Yacht Club has fluctuated. Starting with a case size of 45.4mm in 2010, it was then whittled down to 43.5mm and now, in 2020, appears with a diameter of 44.6mm and a height of 14.4mm. It’s worth remembering that the original Portugieser was an extremely large watch in its day and the collection has always flaunted large watches in keeping with the spirit of its venerable 1939 ancestor.

The models we had for our hands-on session are the two-tone steel and gold model and the steel model with a blue dial or with a white dial with blue accents. The rounded rose gold bezel and the plain steel bezel are polished, a decorative motif that is echoed on the rounded and polished ingot-shaped central links on the steel bracelet. A novelty for 2020, the bracelet is exceptionally well crafted and supple on the wrist displaying contrasting matte brushed links and the raised and polished central link. The other steel elements on the case, the lugs, the pushers and the crown guards are also polished to contrast with the matte finish on the bracelet.

Subtle changes on the dial

The dial has also undergone some subtle changes, no doubt aided by the increase in size of this 2020 edition. The deep-set dial still features the quarter-second scale on the flange for measurements of shorter intervals indicated by the central chronograph hand, but you’ll notice how the sub-dial at 12 o’clock for the combined hours and minutes of the chronograph has more space around it and no longer ‘hits’ the double markers above. Another big change is the relocation of the date window from 3 o’clock to its new home inside the small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock, a much neater solution. The inscription IWC Schaffhausen has switched from left to right and the words Yacht Club that were formerly inside the small seconds counter are now inscribed on the dial to the right of the 9 o’clock marker.

One thing that strikes us an unusual, however, is the substitution of the central red chronograph hand for a hand to match the material of the hour and minute hands, in the case of these two models, gold-plated for the two-tone and rhodium-plated for the blue dial model. It is more difficult to consult elapsed times now – although there is a red hand on the dial that corresponds to the small seconds. As with all Portugieser watches, the Arabic numerals are applied. Depending on the model, in gold or rhodium-plated. The hands are classic leaf-shaped with a streak of lume down the centre to match the luminescence of the blocks placed on the railway minute track to highlight the hours.

The overall effect is one of balance and harmony, less sporty, perhaps even dressier for some than its predecessor.

In-House Movement

The heart of the chronograph is IWC’s 89361 manufacture calibre with a flyback function at 12 o’clock displaying the measured hours and minutes (co-axial). There is also a date display at 6 o’clock. It beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz) with a sizeable 68-hour power reserve. This in-house automatic has 38 jewels and is a workhorse for IWC, powering many of its chronographs of the last decade.

Bracelet and Price

As mentioned, the bracelet is a novelty this year for the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph and all three models are equipped with this ergonomic bracelet, with a micro-adjusting system. The price of the two-tone steel and 18k rose gold model (Ref. IW390703) is CHF 20,500 or EUR 19,300  and the steel models (Ref. IW390701 and IW390702) are priced at  CHF 13,500 or EUR 12,700 . More information at iwc.com .

Technical specifications – IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph

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IWC Portugieser Minute Repeater Reviewed by Tim Mosso

by  Tim Mosso

The 1995 IWC Portugieser Minute Repeater was a breakthrough watch in more ways than one. It proved that IWC’s 1993 revival of its icon wasn’t a stunt and that the historic model family was back for good.

IWC Portugieser Minute Repeater

The Portugieser Minute Repeater made IWC a surprising power in the elite world of chiming watches. It commenced an upmarket march for the Portugieser that continues to this day. And it created a tantalizingly accessible path to repeater ownership for future generations of collectors.

It’s important to remember how fresh the IWC Portugieser felt in 1995. Prior to the anniversary reference 5441, a limited edition for IWC’s 1993 jubilee, the Portugieser was a rare watch.

Although well known to IWC collectors and enthusiasts since it bowed as the reference 325 in 1939, the famously huge dress watch with the pocket watch movement was built in only a few hundred examples through the 1980s.

Having survived the Quartz Crisis and successfully launched both the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar (1985) and Grande Complication (1990), IWC planned to revive its most famous watch for its upcoming 125th anniversary.

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The limited-edition reference 5441 – 1,750 pieces in total – marked the first volume production of the Portugieser in its history. Also known as the anglicised “Portuguese”, the big watch proved too popular to consign to one-off status.

With a view to building out a full Portugieser model line, planning began for complications. Some, like 1998’s reference 3714 Chronograph, would become best-sellers. Others, like the 1995 Minute Repeater, were destined for prestige duty.

In early 1990s Switzerland, Patek Philippe and Gérald Genta – the brand – dominated the elite chiming watch segment. Only dozens of such watches issued from those maisons each year.

Even Patek Philippe had only begun to build chiming watches in earnest after its 150th anniversary collection launched in 1989. A few small masters such as Philippe Dufour, Christophe Claret, and a young F.P. Journe offered larger brands access to this knowledge on a contract basis. But the idea of building hundreds of minute repeaters was still a zany statement of ambition and nerve.

As it turned out, IWC needed help on this front, and it found what it needed in the late 1980s. Somewhere between the scale of the Patek and the piecemeal pace of Dufour, there was the partnership of Dominique Renaud and Giulio Papi. Not yet brought into the Audemars Piguet empire, the two young complications specialists worked with and for everybody from AP to Claret to Ulysse Nardin; IWC sought their counsel.

IWC’s statement watch of 1990 – the 3770 Grande Complication – married a high grade Valjoux 7750 chronograph with IWC’s Kurt Klaus perpetual calendar, and the (pre-AP) R&P team delivered a chiming system that could sit as a module atop the chronograph base but under the dial.

As a series-production watch, the Grande Comp gave IWC valuable experience building and integrating repeater modules; the same system capped 1993’s most bonkers watch, IWC’s “Il Destriero Scafusia.”

IWC Il Destriero Scafusia super complication

Essentially the Grande Complication plus a tourbillon and minus the automatic winding, the “Warhorse of Schaffhausen” was built in 125 pieces – a shocking number for something so complicated.

Having already constructed hundreds of minute repeaters by 1995, IWC needed a new hook for its third major repeating reference, and it decided on “beauty.” Neither the Grande Comp nor the similar Destriero can be described as graceful, handsome, or well proportioned.

But a minute repeating Portugieser was another matter. Reference 5240 hit the ground running in 1995 and didn’t stop until a lightly facelifted successor bowed in 2005. With comparatively blue-collar running gear and high cumulative production numbers, IWC unwittingly created one of the most accessible modern entries to the exclusive club of repeater owners.

Reference 5240’s aesthetic strength draws from its strong resemblance to the modern classic 5441 of 1993. Few compromises are made to accommodate the repeating module, and the watch looks formidable.

Externally, the watch measures 43mm – only one more than the anniversary reference. Lugs, case, bezel and dial change precious little – only the migration of the seconds hand to nine o’clock and repeater slide betray the change in running gear.

Classical Portugieser cues such as integrated lugs, a narrow caseband, small seconds, leaf hands, dimple minutes, and Arabic numerals keep the bloodline pure.

Applied Arabic numerals on the IWC Portugieser Minute Repeater

As for the “International Watch Co.” dial stamp, it feels impossibly retro when viewed through the lens of 2024 IWC design. Although printed in the 1990s, it feels more distant – 1890s, perhaps. This nostalgic logo is both missed and mourned.

Although thicker than the 5441, reference 5240 does a good job of disguising it. Due to the modular nature of the minute repeater, the dial and its hands sit elevated above the rack, snail, strike barrel, gongs, strikers, and governor.

However, IWC mostly cloaks this bloat under a domed dial that’s capped with a huge, vaulted Plexiglas crystal; the case itself stays slim. This is only obvious when viewed in profile. IWC watchmakers added a taller cannon pinion and hour wheels to permit the minute and hour hands, respectively, to clear the dial.

Fans of IWC pocket watches and Portugieser traditionalists will be thrilled to find the pocket watch-derived caliber 95290 on the reverse. However, minute repeater enthusiasts will need to use their imagination to envision the dial side mechanism.

IWC Caliber 9828 powers the Portugieser Minute Repeater

While the 1993 anniversary Portugieser employed caliber 9828, IWC reached back into its history to the slender caliber 95 series to keep the stack height of this watch under 13mm. When combined with the R&P repeater, the combination is roughly the thickness of a Rolex Submariner.

IWS caliber 9828 visible through the display back of the Portugieser Minute Repeater

As a true pocket watch powerplant, the 95290 spans an incredible 37.8mm. All architectural elements are clearly of the pocket watch universe. For example, there’s a crown wheel with a freestanding bridge.

The second wheel of the going train sits dead center and a set of diminishing standalone wheel cocks lead to a balance with a span that’s nearly the radius of the movement. It has a pocket watch heartbeat that ticks at 2.5 Hz/18,000 vibrations per hour, and there’s an overcoil hairspring to make the most of the haute horlogerie five-position adjustment.

Gold chatons feature thoughout the movement of the Portugieser Minute Repeater

Gold chaton cups pressed into the bridges are nod to vintage jewel setting practice. Surprisingly for such a veteran architecture, there’s an enormous hacking lever that halts the movement for precise setting.

No part of the minute repeater module is visible.

Finish is more accomplished than a typical 1990s IWC, but this isn’t Holy Trinity-level decoration. Rather, IWC’s clean and composed fashion speaks to a balance of care and practical considerations.

Geneva stripes and polished screws of the Portugieser Minute Repeater

Stripes are nicely grained and feature a clear texture gradient from side to side. Screws are polished well but not elaborately slotted or chamfered. Bridge bevels and wheels sport a frosted texture.

Movement wheels of the Portugieser Minute Repeater

There are no telltale signs of the quick machining on the anglage of the bridges, but the sandpaper-like grain feels like a subtle antique nod rather than a flash of modern decorative bravado.

Gearing of the Portugieser Minute Repeater

Highlights of the decoration are several. The stacked ratchet wheel and barrel cover exhibit sharp solarization and snailing, respectively. Center, third, and fourth-wheel bridges each feature a single well-defined crease where bevels converge.

Breguet overcoil hairspring visible on the right of this photo

All chatons are handsome and add lively color to the movement. IWC’s beautifully curved overcoil hairspring is a work of art in itself.

Sonically, the minute repeater is more charming than vocal. Due to its location under the dial – itself under a thermoplastic crystal – there’s not a ton of volume.

The sound is better from the back of the Portugieser Minute Repeater

The best strategy is to charge the strike barrel and invert the watch; that seems to yield the most audible strike. I found that the caseback sapphire does a better job of transmitting the sound than the dial’s Plexiglas. Strike governance is on the leisurely side, and a maximum chime of 12:59 will command the owner’s attention for a solid 25 seconds.

The tone is lovely and leaves little to be desired; it’s the module’s finest quality.

While split-second chronographs, perpetual calendars, and even tourbillon regulators have become mass-market products accessible for under $10,000 new, full-strike minute repeaters stand alone as the only traditional apex complication that defies industrial production.

As of 2024, the Portugieser Minute Repeater is one of the most accessible points of entry to an exclusive club. Examples routinely sell for prices in the low $30,000 range, and there’s almost always a selection from which to choose.

Although thirty grand isn’t pin money, it’s also less than mainstreamers pay daily for steel Rolex Daytonas.

Nobody ever received a Portugieser Minute Repeater for winning a race, and that’s just fine. For the right kind of collector, the PMR is every inch a trophy.

For more information, please visit https://www.iwc.com/fr/en/watch-collections/portugieser/iw544907-portugieser-minute-repeater.html

Quick Facts: IWC Portugieser Minute Repeater Reference Code: 5240-05 Edition Number: 250 pieces, launched in 1995; other case metals also issued in separate limited editions; all reference 5240 production concluded in 2005. Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, minute repeater Case: Rose gold; 42mm; 12.9mm thick; 51.1mm lug-to-lug; Plexiglas crystal; sapphire caseback with individual numbering Water resistance: none Strap: Alligator top, calf leather bottom Clasp: Rose gold pin buckle Dial: Matte silver with leaf hands for hours and minutes; lancette small seconds; applied Arabic numerals; dimple-style minute markers Movement: Caliber 95290; manual 54-hour power reserve; 2.5Hz; overcoil hairspring; adjusted in five positions; 54 jewels; stop seconds; minute repeater on dial side module; 37.8mm diameter 2024 preowned Price : $38,000-$45,000

*   Tim Mosso  is the media director and watch specialist at  The 1916 Company . You can check out their very comprehensive YouTube channel at  www.youtube.com/@the1916company

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Portugieser Chronograph

18 ct 5N gold case, Automatic winding, Diameter 41.0 mm, Silver dial , Dark brown alligator leather strap by Santoni, Strap width 20.0 mm.

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Watch Details

• 18 ct 5N gold case
• Diameter 41.0 mm
• Height 13.0 mm
• See-through sapphire glass back
• Water resistance 3.0 bar

• 69355 Calibre
• IWC-manufactured movement
• Automatic winding
• 46 hours power reserve
• Frequency 28'800 VPH (4 Hz)
• 205 Components
• Côtes de Genève

• Small hacking seconds
• Sapphire glass, convex, antireflective coating on both sides
• Chronograph function with minutes and seconds

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The harmoniously designed chronograph with its peripheral precision scale and recessed totalizers has been the most coveted member of the Portugieser family since 1998.

The Portugieser Chronograph is one of IWC Schaffhausen’s most iconic models. With its compact diameter of 41 millimetres, it fits almost any wrist. However, the thin bezel gives one the impression of wearing a significantly larger watch. The clear, functional dial boasts applied Arabic numerals and slender Feuille hands. Printed with a quarter-second scale, the characteristic réhaut not only allows precise reading of the stop time but also reminds us of the Portugieser’s origins as a nautical precision instrument for the wrist. This model features an 18 carat 5N gold case, a silver-plated dial, as well as golden hands and appliqués; it is fitted with a brown alligator leather strap. Inside the sporty-elegant chronograph, the IWC-manufactured 69355 calibre is at work. The robust and precise chronograph movement in classic column-wheel design is visible through a sapphire-glass case back.

A large variety of accessories to personalize your watch.

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