7 foot sailboat

7ft Wooden Sailboat

Introduction: 7ft Wooden Sailboat

I built this 7-foot working sailboat using 1x4 pine and quarter-inch thick plywood. Boat building is something anybody can accomplish. All you need is about $100 in tools, $200 in materials and perhaps 60 hours of spare time. I'm not a professional carpenter, so do proceed at your own risk. Hopefully this broad overview will inspire you to take up this rewarding hobby.

Step 1: Obtain Materials

• Power drill: I prefer two, one with a drill bit for pilot holes and one for Phillips head screws.
• Tape measure
• Ruler and pencil
• Power sander
• 10-20 clamps of all variety: The more you have, the easier construction will be.
• 2 4'x8' 1/4" plywood panels: No need to go for the expensive stuff. Non-marine grade oak worked fine for me.
• ~20' of 1"x4" pine chords: For the structure and deck.
• 3 2"x2" pine chords: For the oars and mast.
• 1 12"x24" board: For the rudder.
• 1 2'x2' 1/2" plywood panel: For the paddles.
• 100' of synthetic rope. Synthetic is less affected by water.
• 1 bed sheet: The sail.
• 1 piece of tagboard: The stem.
• 3-4 cans of spray-on Spar Urethane
• 2 pints of latex paint.
• Epoxy - as much as you can obtain. Avoid 5 minute quick setting Epoxy: It leaves you no time to properly set materials.
• 3/4" wood screws. Any material is fine. Epoxy will cover them.

Step 2: Layout the Design

A complex design is unnecessary. If you think about it, a boat is just an overgrown wooden cup, except instead of keeping liquid in, a boat keeps liquid out. The few design considerations were:

• The maximum width could be no wider than the inside of my Ford Expedition.
• The maximum length could be no longer than what could be wrapped with a strip of 8-foot plywood. (It came to 7 feet).
• The bottom had to be as wide as possible for stability.
• The bottom would be rounded in order to better handle shallow lakes.
• The shape would be a tear drop and look like a boat.
• It had to be light enough to carry short distances.

With these parameters set, place an 8x4 plywood panel on the ground and draw a symmetrical teardrop shape. I used the ruler to make sure lines on each side were equidistant to the edges. The process involved trial and error and ended when I was satisfied that the shape looked 'boat-like'.

Step 3: Cut and Add Beams

The boat had to be strong enough to keep out 6 cubic feet of water (a cubic foot of water weighs 64 lbs), but light enough to portage short distances. And it had to withstand collisions with branches and rocks. 1x4 beams provided this strength. Cutting these was a matter of guesswork. In order to look boat-like, these were angled so the boat's maximum width would be 4 feet at the top rail (the gunnels) and 3 1/2 feet at the bottom. A jigsaw works fine for these cuts. The beams were spaced on foot apart. This spacing, like many things about this boat, was based on a guess.

Step 4: Cut and Add the Sides

With two beams added (maybe there is a more technical term than 'beam'), the sides panels of the boat could be added. To create the sides:

• Cut a 4x8 sheet of plywood into two 2x8 peices.
• Lay these on top of each other.
• Draw out the side. Make the ends curve up slightly. The height should be between 1 and 1 1/2 feet.

With the sides made, screw them to the beams. Be careful to make sure the beams connect to the sides at the same spot. Otherwise, the boat will be asymmetrical. Boat design is very forgiving, with few exceptions. This is one of them. An asymmetrical boat has large cracks to fill and looks bad.

To get the front ends to meet, cut a 2x2 and screw it to the front of one of the plywood panels. Bend both panels until they link up to the 2x2. Make sure they are screwed in. The front, or stem, of the boat is almost ready.

Finally, lift the front of the bottom panel and screw it to the bottom of the 2x2. Sand or saw off any excess wood from the bottom panel.

The most difficult part of the build is complete.

Step 5: Add the Transom

The transom is the back of the boat, shaped like a trapezoid. Determine how wide you want the top rear of the boat and draw out the shape in a piece of plywood. Be mindful of symmetry and make sure the height of the part matches the two side panels. Cut the shape out, then cut and screw in 1x4 chords to give it strength.

Step 6: Complete the Hull Structure

Right now the sides are not well attached to the bottom and large gaps line the edges of the bottom. Reduce these by cutting small triangles out of 1x4's and place these along the bottom edges half way between the beams. This should reduce these gaps. The smaller the gaps are, the less epoxy is needed later.

This is also a good time to add the mast holder. Cut a 1x4 and place it across the top of the structure, close to the stem. Cut a 1 1/2 inch hole in the center with a jigsaw or (if you have one) a 1 1/4 inch drill bit. This will keep the mast in place. Take another 1x4, cut a similar hole in the center, and place on the bottom panel. Carefully line it up to the top mast holder. If these top and bottom mast holders aren't lined up closely, the eight-foot mast will have an obvious lean.

Step 7: Create the Gunnels

Gunnels are the side rail. These add to the structural strength and provide a good place for your hands to grip when boarding, lifting or portaging the boat. To be light, strong and good-looking, take a 4-foot long piece of plywood and trace it along the top of one of the sides. Draw another line four inches parallel to it, then cut. Do this four times:

Along the starboard (right) front. Along the port (left) front.Along the starboard rear.Along the port rear.Make sure there is some overlap between the front and back pieces. You'll have four curvy panels to line along the top of the boat. Use these parts as a template to make two more copies of each panel.

The goal is to create three layers of panels. These three layers are visible in the image, clamped together. When all three are complete, sandwich them together. Glue them together with Epoxy and clamp down. More on Epoxy in the next section.

When both gunnels are complete. Cut a triangle out of 1x4 plywood and place it on top of the stem. This is just for looks.

Step 8: Epoxy

Epoxy is nasty stuff to work with. It smells terrible, is expensive and is highly toxic. At the same, there is no substitute. Epoxy is the glue and the waterproofing agent to use. Follow the manufacturer's guidelines when using it. Generally this means wearing gloves and being in a well ventilated area. Epoxy is a two-ingredient adhesive: a resin and a hardener. Both have to be mixed prior to use. Quick setting epoxy is available, but 1 hour setting works best for boat building. It allows you time to set and correct whatever you are gluing. Any type of epoxy requires 24 hours of cure time. Clamp tightly any pieces you are gluing, and keep the ambient temperature above 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

Step 9: Add the Keel and Cover the Stem

The keel helps keep the boat stable and helps it grip the water and stay strait. Most small sailboats have a deep keel that you sink into the water before setting sail. Usually the setup is complex. I've built two boat that don't have one, and I haven't found a need for a deep, removable keel. This boat uses five strips of plywood. Cut five 1-inch-wide strips of plywood and place them along he bottom center of the boat. Screw them and glue them together. Cut off any excess wood that sticks out in front of the stem. Just that simple. No special detachable keel needed.

The stem has an unsightly crack where the front of the side panels meet. Cover this with a piece of tag board. Yep, paper. Everything will be water proofed, so paper works fine.

Step 10: Sand, Waterproof and Paint.

This is the time to add epoxy. Add it to any joint where one piece of wood meets another, or any exposed screwhead. Even if that joint will never get wet, the boat benefits from the strength of the adhesive. If there is any leak, water will find it. Take time to add 2-3 coats over every crack. Some boat builders recommend making a mix of epoxy and sawdust, then covering the glued joint with tape. I've never found that necessary. A thin bead of epoxy, a quarter inch thick at most, is all that is necessary. Adding this in tiny layers helps guarantee that no leaks remain. Make sure a tarp is below the boat, because some epoxy may leak. Also wait 24 hours between each coating, to allow the glue to dry. Finally, keep the temperature above 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

After the layers are applied, fill the bottom of the boat with water. This will instantly alert you of any leaks.

Next, sand every surface until it looks nice. When sanding blobs of epoxy, wear a face mask, respirator, or at least do it outside. Epoxy is toxic.

Then paint. Inexpensive latex works fine. I prefer dark colors because it hides any errors, uneven cuts, etc. It may be necessary to tip or flip the boat, wait a half day for the paint to dry, then paint another side.

When the boat is painted - spray every surface with 3-5 layers of Spar Urethane. Allow it to dry in between coats. Spar Urethane alone does not seal leaks. That's the Epoxy's job. What it does is protect the wood and paint from water damage. When using the boat for paddling and fishing, all parts are likely to get the occasional splash.

Step 11: Add the Deck

I don't trust quarter inch plywood to hold my weight. A removable deck of 1x4's allows the boat beams to bear this burden. The deck is removable in order to make the boat easier to carry. To create the deck, determine how long it and wide it can be by measuring the inside of the hull. Make sure it doesn't cover the lower mast holder. Space the 1x4's a half-inch apart and link them with two 1x2's (cut a 1x4 into a 1x2 if needed). The 1x2's should be placed somewhere so that they interlock with the hull beams, which prevents the deck from sliding around.

Step 12: Build the Oars, Mast and Sail

Each oar is a 2x2 chord of pine. Cut the corners with a jigsaw and sand it down until the wood is rounded. Closet hangers also work, require no cutting and sanding, but are five times as expensive. Cut a notch into one end of the wood. This is where the paddles will go. The paddles are made of half-inch plywood panels. Glue the paddles and oars together with epoxy. Screw them together for added strength. Spray each oar and paddle with 2-3 coatings of Spar Urethane.

The mast is an eight-foot 2x2. Cut 2 holes in the top: Rope will go here. After cutting and sanding the mast until it looks round, put it into the mast holder to make sure it fits. Just above the mast holder, drill another hole. The spar will attach here.

The spar is a 6-foot 1x2 (or cut 1x4). Drill one hole at the end where it meets the mast. Drill a hole in the enter, and drill two holes toward the end.

The sail is just a bed sheet. Cut it into a triangle. If the cut is jagged, white duct tape helps cover it up.

Step 13: Rudder and Rigging

The rudder is cut from a 12x1 pine chord and made to look like a rudder. It is detachable and hooks on to two loops that come out of the transom. It is controlled with two ropes that come out of the rudder and move through a series of hooks along the gunnels. The ends of the ropes meet near the mast. The rudder turns by tugging one of the ropes.

The oar locks are each a 2" wide loop of rope screwed into the gunnels.

Rigging is complex, so I'll let the pictures and videos describe it. The benefit of the Bermuda setup is that it has few moving parts and is the easiest to sail. It has been a process of trial and error and I'm still figuring out the best system.

Step 14: Enjoy!

Building and sailing your own boat is a hobby that challenges you physically and mentally. At the same time, anybody who has the desire can get into it. When building or sailing, stay safe and follow usual precautions like wearing a life jacket. Have fun out there.

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Designed for the way you live

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Specifications & features

Lloyd’s Register certified hull and deck moulding

675 hulls and deck mouldings meet EU RCDII standards, with strength, integrity and build quality also certified by Lloyd’s Register.

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Retractable hydraulic bow and stern thrusters

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Hull colours

Make the Oyster 675 your own with a choice of hull, mast and sail colours to suit your personal taste. You can also specify creative vinyl wrap and paint options to make an instantly recognisable look.

Hydraulic passerelle

The retractable hydraulic Besenzoni 2.7m passerelle is neatly hidden in the transom. Sleek and stylish, it has a teak footboard and a painted or polished stainless-steel finish. Operate from the cockpit, with a remote control or even from your smartphone.

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10 New Cruising Sailboats Under 35 Feet

• By Cruising World Staff
• Updated: November 3, 2020

It wasn’t so long ago that 30- to 35-foot cruising sailboats were likely to be the largest yachts found in many a harbor. And while 40-something and even 50-something footers are all the rage at boat shows today, there’s a lot to be said for setting sail on a boat big enough to carry family and friends, but still small enough to be easily maintained and handled alone from time to time. Small cruising sailboats are simple to dock or tie up to a mooring, and finding long-term marina space is easier as well.

Choosing a cruising sailboat, no matter the size, is a big decision. And it helps to have a trusted list of boats to get started. Here, then, is a look at 10 of the best daysailers , weekenders and coastal cruising sailboats under 35 feet that are all in production and can be purchased new.

Alerion Sport 30

A quarter-century ago, Garry Hoyt launched what would come to be known as the daysailer genre with the introduction of the Alerion Express 28, a boat designed by the late Carl Schumacher that featured a minimal interior and a large cockpit where an owner and guests could enjoy the simple joy of sailing. Traditional and lovely looking—but with a quite modern underbody and a powerful sail plan—Hoyt, ever the marketer, proclaimed the boat to be “the prettiest girl at the dance.”

Since then, a number of siblings ranging from 20 to 41 feet have been added to the Alerion family, including the Alerion Sport 30, which retains the graceful sheer line, oval ports and stylish overhangs of the original Schumacher design. Yet with input from naval architect Langan Design Partners, it also embraces a solid measure of performance-oriented DNA.

Read more about the Alerion Sport 30 »

Bavaria Cruiser 34

In every Boat of the Year contest, it seems, a boat rises up after sea trials to make a lasting impression on the judges. For 2018, that boat was the Bavaria Cruiser 34.

Says Boat of the Year Judge Tim Murphy, “The Bavaria was a lovely boat to sail. It has a single rudder, and she answered her helm just beautifully in the conditions we had today. We started off with around 10 knots of breeze that built to 13 to 15 knots. As a sailboat, it was just a pleasurable sailing experience, among the best we had during our judging. It was among the boats that felt like a really happy sailing experience.

Read more about the Bavaria Cruiser 34 »

Beneteau Oceanis 30.1

Sailed as part of the 2020 Boat of the Year sea trials, the 31-foot-3-inch Beneteau Oceanis 30.1 was the compact yacht best-equipped and spec’d out as a dedicated cruising boat, and not coincidentally, it was also awarded the title of Best Performance Cruiser for 2020. But don’t let her cozy interior accommodations fool you; this is also one peppy little vessel.

Read more about the Beneteau Oceanis 30.1 »

The 2017 Boat of the Year (BOTY) contest featured a stellar crop of crossover cruiser/racers; however, when all the testing was said and done, our independent panel of judges was sold on the Dehler 34, naming it the year’s Best Performance Cruiser. Designed by the highly regarded Judel/Vrolijk naval-architecture consortium, whose reputation was fostered by longtime success in international yacht-racing circles, the 34-footer combined contemporary good looks and a sweet turn of speed with better-than-average comfort and accommodations below. It didn’t hurt that the boat, nicely equipped at $215,000, was the least-expensive entry in the entire 2017 fleet. All in all, it proved to be a winning formula.

Read more about the Dehler 34 »

Dufour Grand Large 360

Dufour Yachts introduced its new 360 Grand Large model to CW’s Boat of the Year team in 2018 as a coastal cruiser intended for a couple or perhaps a small family. With that in mind, judge Alvah Simon found numerous clever elements to praise within the boat’s 35-foot-2-inch hull—a relatively modest LOA compared to the many 40-, 50- and 60-footers on display at the U.S. Sailboat show in Annapolis, Maryland.

Read more about the Dufour Grand Large 360 »

After a roughly 10-year hiatus from the U.S. marketplace, the Slovenian builder Elan is back in a big way. For the 2017 Boat of the Year contest, the company launched a pair of new boats in the States, including the Elan E4, a 34-foot-9-inch performance cruiser with an emphasis on performing, designed by renowned British naval architect Rob Humphreys. The brand has been in business for seven decades and lately is perhaps even better known in America for its skis. Not surprisingly, given its complementary product lines—lots of sailors are fine skiers—its boats are as sleek and sporty as its boards.

Read more about the Elan E4 »

Grand Soleil 34

Way back in the 1970s, when the well-known Italian boatyard Grand Soleil was just getting started, its first model was a Finot-designed 34-footer. With over 300 units sold, it was an instant success, and launched the company on an upward trajectory that spanned the intervening decades, mostly with an ongoing series of much larger, more complex racer/cruisers. For 2020, the builder decided to return to its roots with a completely revamped Grand Soleil 34, and it’s a terrific boat.

Read more about the Grand Soleil 34 »

Value. How does one determine it? Price is most certainly a factor. In the case of new boats, and our Boat of the Year competition, it means something more. As sailors, we wish to recognize good boats that not only are affordable but offer other, tangible rewards. The ability to get couples and families out on the water, to have a weekend escape, to take them on coastal vacations and even maybe a sabbatical to the islands, all without breaking the bank. For 2019, the judging panel determined that one boat had the potential to do these things better than the rest, which is why they awarded the Best Value prize to the Hanse 348.

With a price tag under $200,000, during sea trials the Hanse 348 wowed the judging team from the get-go. “In only about 8 knots of breeze, we were seeing 5.7 knots upwind and pointing very nicely, and even registered 6.5 knots once we cracked off,” said Tim Murphy. “It’s a pretty sweet little boat.”

Read more about the Hanse 348 »

Italia 9.98

Of the performance cruisers that made their North American debut in 2020, in terms of sheer appearance, the futuristic 34-foot Italia 9.98 was easily the most distinctive. There are actually two versions of the boat: the 34 Club—which is the cruising alternative, the primary features of which are its twin wheels—and the 34 Fuoriserie—the racing model, and the one we tested, with its tiller steering being the identifying characteristic.

Read more about the Italia 9.98 »

Beginning with the popular little J/24 way back in 1977, J/Boats has become famous for its steady introduction of terrific racing and cruising boats, almost all of which shared one main characteristic: They sailed like a witch. More than four decades later, having built more than 50 separate, mind-boggling models, the Johnstone family that designs, markets and sells the brand shows no signs of slowing down. Their latest offering, for 2020, was another fast and fun racer/cruiser: the 32-foot-7-inch J/99.

Read more about the J/99 »

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Our oars combine the traditional appeal of wood with high performance and ease of use.

Our oars reflect years of research and experimentation to refine the ideal oars for modern rowers. Crafted from high altitude oregon Fir, these oars feel much lighter and more delicately balanced than typical wood oars.

The long ‘high aspect ratio’ blade shape is extremely efficient; the blade length and curve prevents slippage on the power stroke while the narrow width requires less lift and is less likely to hit waves on the backstroke.

Careful control of the shaft diameter combined with the blade taper makes a delightful flex pattern that yields at the beginning of power for a soft feel. At the completion of the stroke the flex recovers quickly giving a little extra ‘kick’.

Chafe guards are heavy duty nylon rope wrapping set in epoxy. The oar stops are a firm rubber that grips the rope for positive positioning yet can be easily adjusted for different amounts of overlap or use on different boats.

In the video below, Falk breaks down the different styles of oar we offer and which size oars are recommended for each boat.

The oars we currently offer include: 

Flat blade: 7′, 8′, and 9′ lengths Spoon blade: 7′, 7.5′, 8′, 8.5′ and 9′ lengths

2-Piece Takedown Oars:

XPL Oars (carbon shaft and spoon blade) in any length from 8′ to 9.5′ Scamp Oars (fiberglass shaft, composite straight blade), 9′ length

Forward Facing Rowing System:

Our one-of-a-kind system cleverly enables the rower to face forward instead of backward while rowing! Learn more about the forward rowing system here.

Other sizes and styles may be available by special order.

7 Foot Arc Boat Shaped Conference Table with Double Metal Base

Businesses Only

Base Finish :

Top Finish :

Asian Night

Shipping to  

More Offers and Savings

$85 per month suggested payments with 18 month financing. $85/mo suggested payments w/18 mo. financing.

At a Glance

Assembly Required

Overall Length - End to End: 59.5 ''

Chair Not Included

Description

About This Product

• Timeless design. Harmony Conference Series gives classic shapes a modern twist, combining creativity and class with durable construction that will fit virtually any modern office environment.
• Optional power and data module with 2 power outlets, 1 USB-A and 1 USB-C ports, and 2 CAT-6 ports will make wire management a breeze. The inset module can be closed when not in use.
• Sturdy and dependable. The brushed aluminum base is sturdy and meant for prolonged use. High-quality scratch-resistant laminate guarantees your table will maintain its looks through many meetings.
• Bring collaboration to any environment. This table seats up to 6 people comfortably, allowing you to create a collaborative or conference-style workspace in any work, training, or learning environment.
• Easy assembly. Does not require a professional installer to assemble
• Every conference table is custom-made to order

Specifications

Other Dimensions

Return Policy

30-day return policy.

Not loving it? We offer returns for most items within 30 days of delivery for a refund or store credit.

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Average Sailboat Insurance Cost

‍ Sailboat insurance is often less expensive than auto insurance, but rates vary based on several important factors.

Sailboat owners typically pay between $250 and $1,500 per year to insure their sailboats. This cost varies based on a number of factors, including policy type and coverage amounts. Sailboats are usually less expensive to insure than powerboats.

In this article, we’ll go over the average costs of sailboat insurance for typical production fiberglass cruising vessels. Additionally, we’ll go in-depth on the factors that contribute to premiums, along with how to reduce the cost of a good sailboat insurance policy.

We sourced the information used in this article from our own analysis of insurance industry averages. We also considered information provided by boat insurance companies, along with the policies they advertise.

Table of contents

‍ Average Annual Sailboat Insurance Price

Sailboat insurance varies, but owners rarely pay more than $1,000 annually for basic coverage. This is considering that the vast majority of sailboats are fiberglass production cruisers between 20 and 40 feet in length, and they aren’t used as often as automobiles.

Sailboat insurance prices range between $250 per year for the most basic coverage (liability, small boats with infrequent use) to $1,500 for comprehensive coverage (average-sized older vessel with somewhat regular use).

But if we were to establish a general rule about sailboat insurance, it’s this: it’s cheaper than car insurance. Sailboat insurance is usually an insignificant cost compared to mooring fees and maintenance.

Is Sailboat Insurance Cheaper than Powerboat Insurance?

Yes, sailboat insurance is usually cheaper than powerboat insurance, even if your vessel comes with an engine. This has a lot to do with speed, power, and accident rates.

Speedboats are particularly expensive to insure, as they’re more dangerous and accident-prone. The cost to insure a small speedboat is often comparable to a large sailboat.

Types of Sailboat Insurance Coverage

There are several types of coverage with different pricing rates. The actual name of these different coverage types varies between companies. But generally speaking, here are the broad types of insurance that you can get for your sailboat.

Basic Liability and Salvage Coverage

The most inexpensive coverage is basic liability, which usually covers accidents you cause only. It doesn’t cover your repair costs, but it does cover damage to other boats, medical expenses for injuries, and wreck removal.

Specialized or Custom Coverage

Specialized coverage varies most in price. This kind of coverage is determined by the owner and covers modifications and expensive equipment.

Let’s say a sailboat owner buys a basic new Catalina 315, then outfits it for offshore use. He installs solar panels, an autopilot, a Garmin radar set, and a costly set of automatic winches and hardware.

With a specialized insurance coverage plan, he can add the value of these very specific items to his repair and replacement plan in case the boat gets damaged or lost along the way.

Comprehensive Coverage

Comprehensive plans offer significantly more coverage. These policies offer towing services, damage costs for you and other boats, uninsured boater protection, repairs and replacement parts, and emergency assistance for things like dead batteries and running out of gas.

What Factors Contribute to Sailboat Insurance Premiums?

Sailboat insurance works much like car insurance, but there are some differences. Like car insurance, sailboat insurance premiums are based on factors including your accident record, the value of your boat, your location, and how often you use the vessel.

Operator Boating Record

Citations and accidents are some of the most important insurance cost factors. This makes sense, as a long history of responsible boating reduces the risk that the company will have to payout.

A minor incident won’t ruin your premiums, but a history of crashes and BWIs will certainly limit your options and increase sailboat insurance prices.

Experience plays a role as well. Documented boating experience, such as policies on other vessels or professional captain certifications, can greatly reduce the cost of sailboat insurance.

Operator Age

Age is another important factor for insurance premium prices. The ages that get the best rates are between 50 and 60. If you look at it on a chart, you’ll see insurance rates top out around age 16 and slowly decline until age 70. At this point, insurance rates begin to increase—but never to the level of a young person.

Sailboat Value

The value of your sailboat also plays a big part in your insurance costs. For example, a $500,000 classical schooner is certainly going to cost more to insure than a clunky $10,000 fiberglass sloop, especially because the owners of more expensive boats generally opt for more coverage.

Agreed Value vs. Actual Value

How does an insurance company decide what to pay out if your boat is a total loss? There are two primary ways these policies work: with either agreed value or actual value.

 Actual value policies are common for new boats, as their value is easy to determine. If a new (or late-model) boat is worth $150,000, then that’s the cost the insurance company will usually cover to replace the vessel.

Agreed value is more common for older and classic boats, as the procedures used to calculate their value aren’t always reliable. Factors such as rarity, design, desirability, and condition may not reflect clearly in analytics—but do on the market.

Agreed value is a number that the owner and the company settle on. It is more holistic than the actual value, as the actual value may be impossible to accurately calculate for some rare and vintage vessels.

Sailboat Age

The age of the vessel has an impact on insurance rates. Usually, an older vessel is thought to be less valuable to a point. This means that a 1970 sailboat is usually cheaper to insure than a 1990 sailboat. The cost difference can be negligible beyond ten years of age, but it’s higher with late-model vessels.

Sailboat Type

Different kinds of sailboats have different insurance rates. Factors under this category include a number of hulls, size, displacement, and cruising characteristics. For example, speedy trick race boats made with carbon fiber are more expensive to insure than bulky fiberglass cruisers.

Location plays a big part in average sailboat insurance costs for a number of reasons. For example, sailboats used in freshwater are typically cheaper to insure than saltwater.

Also, sailboats moored in areas prone to severe weather tend to have higher insurance premiums. For example, premiums in Florida or South Texas account for hurricanes, while premiums in central Oklahoma account for large hail.

Does Your Driving Record Affect Average Sailboat Insurance Cost?

Absolutely; your driving record can have a dramatic effect on your ability to find favorable sailboat insurance rates. This is because insurance needs to consider you and the boat—and how risky you (as a captain) are to insure.

Car accidents, moving violations, citations, and DUIs are detrimental to insurance premiums on and off the water. And they will find out, regardless of what company you choose. Risky drivers are almost always risky boaters as well.

But your driving record can also work in your favor. You may be a new boater who hasn’t had a chance to prove yourself yet. If sailboat insurance and auto insurance had no correlation, you’d be treated like a brand new driver for years, even if you’ve had experience. A safe driving record can reduce your costs and increase coverage options.

Does Liveaboard Sailboat Insurance Cost More?

Yes, liveaboard insurance tends to cost more. This is because you’re on the boat constantly and engaged in activities like cooking, bathing, and electricity use. All of these activities carry risks, which must be considered.

Additionally, liveaboard insurance policies can cover more than typical comprehensive coverage. This includes assets inside the sailboat, such as furnishings, computers, equipment, and other possessions.

Average Sailboat Insurance Costs Differences For Men and Women

Insurance companies consider risk on a wide scale, and they notice trends that are large enough to make a cost difference. One pricing factor to consider is that, after age 27, men tend to pay higher insurance premiums than women.

There’s a simple reason for this—men crash and commit violations more often. Insurance companies have found that, on average, men are more likely to engage in dangerous boating behavior, and thus they are riskier to insure.

The price difference is typically pretty small—between $10 and $100—but this gap widens with accidents, DUIs, and other detrimental incidents. Generally speaking, women can enjoy lower quotes and lower premiums if they have a clean driving and boating record.

How to Reduce Sailboat Insurance Premiums

Reducing your premiums is actually fairly simple, and there are strategies that take only a few hours to complete. The easiest way to reduce your sailboat insurance premiums is to take a boater’s safety course or to get your boating license, even if you’re not required to by law.

You can also reduce your premiums by increasing your hull deductible. This strategy will cost you more out of pocket in the event of an accident, but safe boaters can usually contend with the risk.

Seasonal insurance rates can also be reduced if you haul your boat out or winterize it correctly. If the boat sits in storage for six months of the year, like in a dry slip or a boatyard, you can usually get a pretty hefty winter discount.

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Daniel Wade

I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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