gaff rigged sailboat

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What’s in a Rig? The Gaff Rig

By: Pat Reynolds Sailboat Rigs , Sailboats

What’s in a Rig Series #6 – Gaff Rig

What’s a gaff rig? Well, first… what’s a gaff? A gaff is a spar, or a strong pole. A gaff rig employs a spar on the top of the sail and typically other sails can be set in conjunction with that mainsail with the gaff. Often, on the smaller, non tall ship, gaff rigs, there will be a small triangular sail that fits between the main and the mast like a puzzle piece – this is the topsail.

The gaff rig was the standard manner of rigging a sailboat a century ago and before. The thinking at that time had to do primarily with the ability to manage sail area. The sails weren’t made of the lightweight synthetics of today and there was solid logic involved in dividing the sail plan into pieces for the purposes of balancing and reefing in strong winds. Like today, sailors wanted horsepower via sail area and fractioned rigs allowed skippers to also manage it more easily.

These rigs weren’t so wonderful upwind, so when the bermuda rig was introduced, with their efficiency and simplicity, the gaff rig fell out of favor. Modern sloops dominated the scene and continue to do so, but during the 1960s, folks began to say, “actually gaff rigs are kind of cool,” and there was something of a resurgence based on a love for history and the beauty of the rig.

Today, gaff rigs are still around, sailed by sailors who love what they represent and some that swear by their sailing capabilities. Like the ketch rig, gaff rig lovers will say that the configuration produces less heel, a more comfortable sail, better balance and more choices for reefing in heavier winds. They might also speak of the practicality of being out at sea and having the ability to make repairs to a a part of the rig with plenty of rig still intact and operational.

However, the gaff rig’s greatest pull is probably its classic appearance. There is something so undeniably dignified and stalwart about a fully rigged, gaff-rigged sailboat making its way. They are living reminders of where technology was and the importance of solid craftsmanship that existed at that time. They exude beauty and carry with them a spirit that is unique and distinct.

What's in a Rig Series:

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Educational

“hold on the peak, up on the throat” let’s explore the gaff rig..

When you think of a ‘traditional’ sailing ship, many people will picture something from a Pirates of the Caribbean film. A big, old galleon with several billowing square-shaped sails flying one on top another. You may have noticed however that most of our Classic Sailing fleet (at the moment!) don’t quite fit that image. The majority of our ships are Gaff rigged. Gaff rigged sailing vessels, with their distinctive ‘4-cornered-but-triangular-shaped’ sails and rich history, have been an integral part of maritime culture for centuries. This style of rigging has evolved from older sail designs, each adaptation refining its performance and versatility. The gaff rig stands as a testament to the ingenuity of seafarers, and its impact on sailing is undeniable. In this article, we’ll take a peek at the fascinating world of gaff rigged vessels, exploring their evolution, unique features, and notable examples.

Of course we can’t write about gaffer’s without pointing you towards Tom Cunliffe’s brilliant book, ‘Hand, Reef and Steer’ and also the Association for Gaff Rig Sailing (OGA) for further reading and resources.

Evolution from Older Rigs

The gaff rig’s origins can be traced back through the centuries, emerging as a refinement of the older square rig and spritsail designs. It introduced the ‘gaff’, a wooden spar at the top of the sail extending diagonally from the mast, allowing for a larger sail area and improved control. This innovation enabled sailors to harness the wind more efficiently, enhancing manoeuvrability and overall performance.

Differences from Square Rigged Ships

One key distinction between gaff rigged vessels and their square rigged counterparts is the positioning of the sails. Square rigs feature square-shaped sails that are attached perpendicular to the mast. Gaff rigged vessels utilise triangular sails suspended from the gaff. This configuration offers greater control over sail shape and allows for efficient tacking into the wind.

Advantages and Impact

The gaff rig’s ability to sail closer to the wind than square sailed ships was a revolutionary advancement in sail technology. This capability not only expedited voyages but also impacted global trade, exploration, and naval warfare. Gaff rigged vessels became favoured choices for coastal and short-haul journeys, as they could navigate shallow waters and challenging coastlines with agility.

Anatomy of a Gaff Sail

A typical gaff sail comprises several components, including the mast, gaff, boom, and various lines and ropes. The mast serves as the vertical support, while the gaff is the diagonal spar that supports the head of the sail. The boom, a horizontal spar attached to the foot of the sail, helps control the position and shape of the sail and manage its angle to the wind.

Multiple Halyards and Line Control

Gaff rigged vessels commonly employ two halyards instead of one. The throat halyard raises the forward end of the gaff, while the peak halyard raises the aft end. This dual halyard system offers greater control over the sail’s shape and tension. The gaff can be raised or lowered as needed, enabling adjustments for various wind conditions. There is a knack to raising a gaff sail. You may hear the mate or skipper asking for one of the halyards to hauled and the other held as you and your fellow sailiors are ‘sweating’ up the sail!

Gaffer’s in the Classic Sailing Fleet

Pilgrim Provident Santa Maria Manuela Tallulah Tecla In conclusion, gaff rigged sailing vessels have a storied past that stretches back centuries. Evolving from older rig designs, gaff rigs introduced innovations that improved sailing performance and revolutionized maritime exploration and trade. As you explore the maritime world, keep an eye out for these majestic vessels and marvel at the legacy they carry.

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Guide to Understanding Sail Rig Types (with Pictures)

There are a lot of different sail rig types and it can be difficult to remember what's what. So I've come up with a system. Let me explain it in this article.

What are the different types of sail rig? The sail rig is determined by the number of masts and the layout and shape of sails. Most modern ships are fore-and-aft rigged, while old ships are square-rigged. Rigs with one mast are sloops and cutters. Ketches, yawls, brigs, and schooners have two masts. Barques have three masts. Rigs can contain up to seven masts.

'Yeah, that's a gaff brig, and that a Bermuda cutter' - If you don't know what this means (neither did I) and want to know what to call a two-masted ship with a square-rigged mainsail, this article is definitely for you.

On this page:

More info on sail rig types, mast configurations and rig types, rigs with one mast, rigs with two masts, rigs with three masts, related questions.

This article is part 2 of my series on sails and rig types. Part 1 is all about the different types of sails. If you want to know everything there is to know about sails once and for all, I really recommend you read it. It gives a good overview of sail types and is easy to understand.

The Ultimate Guide to Sail Types and Rigs (with Pictures)

First of all, what is a sail rig? A sail rig is the way in which the sails are attached to the mast(s). In other words, it's the setup or configuration of the sailboat. The rig consists of the sail and mast hardware. The sail rig and sail type are both part of the sail plan. We usually use the sail rig type to refer to the type of boat.

Let's start by taking a look at the most commonly used modern sail rigs. Don't worry if you don't exactly understand what's going on. At the end of this article, you'll understand everything about rig types.

The sail rig and sail plan are often used interchangeably. When we talk of the sail rig we usually mean the sail plan . Although they are not quite the same. A sail plan is the set of drawings by the naval architect that shows the different combinations of sails and how they are set up for different weather conditions. For example a light air sail plan, storm sail plan, and the working sail plan (which is used most of the time).

So let's take a look at the three things that make up the sail plan.

The 3 things that make up the sail plan

I want to do a quick recap of my previous article. A sail plan is made up of:

• Mast configuration - refers to the number of masts and where they are placed
• Sail type - refers to the sail shape and functionality
• Rig type - refers to the way these sails are set up on your boat

I'll explore the most common rig types in detail later in this post. I've also added pictures to learn to recognize them more easily. ( Click here to skip to the section with pictures ).

How to recognize the sail plan?

So how do you know what kind of boat you're dealing with? If you want to determine what the rig type of a boat is, you need to look at these three things:

• Check the number of masts, and how they are set up.
• You look at the type of sails used (the shape of the sails, how many there are, and what functionality they have).
• And you have to determine the rig type, which means the way the sails are set up.

Below I'll explain each of these factors in more detail.

The most common rig types on sailboats

To give you an idea of the most-used sail rigs, I'll quickly summarize some sail plans below and mention the three things that make up their sail plan.

• Bermuda sloop - one mast, one mainsail, one headsail, fore-and-aft rigged
• Gaff cutter - one mast, one mainsail, two staysails, fore-and-aft rigged
• Gaff schooner - two-masted (foremast), two mainsails, staysails, fore-and-aft rigged
• Gaff ketch - two-masted (mizzen), two mainsails, staysails, fore-and-aft rigged
• Full-rigged ship or tall ship - three or more masts, mainsail on each mast, staysails, square-rigged

The first word is the shape and rigging of the mainsail. So this is the way the sail is attached to the mast. I'll go into this later on. The second word refers to the mast setup and amount of sails used.

Most sailboats are Bermuda sloops. Gaff-rigged sails are mostly found on older, classic boats. Square-rigged sails are generally not used anymore.

But first I want to discuss the three factors that make up the sail plan in more detail.

Ways to rig sails

There are basically two ways to rig sails:

• From side to side, called Square-rigged sails - the classic pirate sails
• From front to back, called Fore-and-aft rigged sails - the modern sail rig

Almost all boats are fore-and-aft rigged nowadays.

Square sails are good for running downwind, but they're pretty useless when you're on an upwind tack. These sails were used on Viking longships, for example. Their boats were quicker downwind than the boats with fore-and-aft rigged sails, but they didn't handle as well.

The Arabs first used fore-and-aft rigged sails, making them quicker in difficult wind conditions.

Quick recap from part 1: the reason most boats are fore-and-aft rigged today is the increased maneuverability of this configuration. A square-rigged ship is only good for downwind runs, but a fore-and-aft rigged ship can sail close to the wind, using the lift to move forward.

The way the sails are attached to the mast determines the shape of the sail. The square-rigged sails are always attached the same way to the mast. The fore-and-aft rig, however, has a lot of variations.

The three main sail rigs are:

• Bermuda rig - most used - has a three-sided (triangular) mainsail
• Gaff rig - has a four-sided mainsail, the head of the mainsail is guided by a gaff
• Lateen rig - has a three-sided (triangular) mainsail on a long yard

The Bermuda is the most used, the gaff is a bit old-fashioned, and the lateen rig is outdated (about a thousand years). Lateen rigs were used by the Moors. The Bermuda rig is actually based on the Lateen rig (the Dutch got inspired by the Moors).

Other rig types that are not very common anymore are:

• Junk rig - has horizontal battens to control the sail
• Settee rig - Lateen with the front corner cut off
• Crabclaw rig

Mast configuration

Okay, we know the shape of the mainsail. Now it's time to take a look at the mast configuration. The first thing is the number of masts:

• one-masted boats
• two-masted boats
• three-masted boats
• four masts or up
• full or ship-rigged boats - also called 'ships' or 'tall ships'

I've briefly mentioned the one and two mast configurations in part 1 of this article. In this part, I'll also go over the three-masted configurations, and the tall ships as well.

A boat with one mast has a straightforward configuration because there's just one mast. You can choose to carry more sails or less, but that's about it.

A boat with two masts or more gets interesting. When you add a mast, it means you have to decide where to put the extra mast: in front, or in back of the mainmast. You can also choose whether or not the extra mast will carry an extra mainsail. The placement and size of the extra mast are important in determining what kind of boat we're dealing with. So you start by locating the largest mast, which is always the mainmast.

From front to back: the first mast is called the foremast. The middle mast is called the mainmast. And the rear mast is called the mizzenmast.

What is the mizzenmast? The mizzenmast is the aft-most (rear) mast on a sailboat with three or more masts or the mast behind the mainmast on a boat with two masts. The mizzenmast carries the mizzen sail. On a two-masted boat, the mizzenmast is always (slightly) smaller than the mainmast. What is the purpose of the mizzen sail? The mizzen sail provides more sail area and flexibility in sail plan. It can be used as a big wind rudder, helping the sailor to have more control over the stern of the ship. It pushes the stern away from the wind and forces the bow in the opposite way. This may help to bring the bow into the wind when at anchor.

I always look at the number of masts first, because this is the easiest to spot. So to make this stuff more easy to understand, I've divided up the rig types based on the number of masts below.

Why would you want more masts and sail anyways?

Good question. The biggest advantage of two masts compared to one (let's say a ketch compared to a sloop), is that it allows you to use multiple smaller sails to get the same sail area. It also allows for shorter masts.

This means you reduce the stress on the rigging and the masts, which makes the ketch rig safer and less prone to wear and tear. It also doesn't capsize as quickly. So there are a couple of real advantages of a ketch rig over a sloop rig.

In the case of one mast, we look at the number of sails it carries.

Boats with one mast can have either one sail, two sails, or three or more sails.

Most single-masted boats are sloops, which means one mast with two sails (mainsail + headsail). The extra sail increases maneuverability. The mainsail gives you control over the stern, while the headsail gives you control over the bow.

Sailor tip: you steer a boat using its sails, not using its rudder.

The one-masted rigs are:

• Cat - one mast, one sail
• Sloop - one mast, two sails
• Cutter - one mast, three or more sails

The cat is the simplest sail plan and has one mast with one sail. It's easy to handle alone, so it's very popular as a fishing boat. Most (very) small sailboats are catboats, like the Sunfish, and many Laser varieties. But it has a limited sail area and doesn't give you the control and options you have with more sails.

The most common sail plan is the sloop. It has one mast and two sails: the main and headsail. Most sloops have a Bermuda mainsail. It's one of the best racing rigs because it's able to sail very close to the wind (also called 'weatherly'). It's one of the fastest rig types for upwind sailing.

It's a simple sail plan that allows for high performance, and you can sail it short-handed. That's why most sailboats you see today are (Bermuda) sloops.

This rig is also called the Marconi rig, and it was developed by a Dutch Bermudian (or a Bermudian Dutchman) - someone from Holland who lived on Bermuda.

A cutter has three or more sails. Usually, the sail plan looks a lot like the sloop, but it has three headsails instead of one. Naval cutters can carry up to 6 sails.

Cutters have larger sail area, so they are better in light air. The partition of the sail area into more smaller sails give you more control in heavier winds as well. Cutters are considered better for bluewater sailing than sloops (although sloops will do fine also). But the additional sails just give you a bit more to play with.

Two-masted boats can have an extra mast in front or behind the mainmast. If the extra mast is behind (aft of) the mainmast, it's called a mizzenmast . If it's in front of the mainmast, it's called a foremast .

If you look at a boat with two masts and it has a foremast, it's most likely either a schooner or a brig. It's easy to recognize a foremast: the foremast is smaller than the aft mast.

If the aft mast is smaller than the front mast, it is a sail plan with a mizzenmast. That means the extra mast has been placed at the back of the boat. In this case, the front mast isn't the foremast, but the mainmast. Boats with two masts that have a mizzenmast are most likely a yawl or ketch.

The two-masted rigs are:

• Lugger - two masts (mizzen), with lugsail (a cross between gaff rig and lateen rig) on both masts
• Yawl - two masts (mizzen), fore-and-aft rigged on both masts. Main mast is much taller than mizzen. Mizzen without a mainsail.
• Ketch - two masts (mizzen), fore-and-aft rigged on both masts. Main mast with only slightly smaller mizzen. Mizzen has mainsail.
• Schooner - two masts (foremast), generally gaff rig on both masts. Main mast with only slightly smaller foremast. Sometimes build with three masts, up to seven in the age of sail.
• Bilander - two masts (foremast). Has a lateen-rigged mainsail and square-rigged sails on the foremast and topsails.
• Brig - two masts (foremast), partially square-rigged. The main mast carries small lateen-rigged sail.

The yawl has two masts that are fore-and-aft rigged and a mizzenmast. The mizzenmast is much shorter than the mainmast, and it doesn't carry a mainsail. The mizzenmast is located aft of the rudder and is mainly used to increase helm balance.

A ketch has two masts that are fore-and-aft rigged. The extra mast is a mizzenmast. It's nearly as tall as the mainmast and carries a mainsail. Usually, the mainsails of the ketch are gaff-rigged, but there are Bermuda-rigged ketches too. The mizzenmast is located in front of the rudder instead of aft, as on the yawl.

The function of the ketch's mizzen sail is different from that of the yawl. It's actually used to drive the boat forward, and the mizzen sail, together with the headsail, are sufficient to sail the ketch. The mizzen sail on a yawl can't really drive the boat forward.

Schooners have two masts that are fore-and-aft rigged. The extra mast is a foremast which is generally smaller than the mainmast, but it does carry a mainsail. Schooners are also built with a lot more masts, up to seven (not anymore). The schooner's mainsails are generally gaff-rigged.

The schooner is easy to sail but not very fast. It handles easier than a sloop, except for upwind, and it's only because of better technology that sloops are now more popular than the schooner.

The brig has two masts. The foremast is always square-rigged. The mainmast can be square-rigged or is partially square-rigged. Some brigs carry a lateen mainsail on the mainmast, with square-rigged topsails.

Some variations on the brig are:

Brigantine - two masts (foremast), partially square-rigged. Mainmast carries no square-rigged mainsail.

Hermaphrodite brig - also called half brig or schooner brig. Has two masts (foremast), partially square-rigged. Mainmast carries a gaff rig mainsail and topsail, making it half schooner.

Three-masted boats are mostly barques or schooners. Sometimes sail plans with two masts are used with more masts.

The three-masted rigs are:

• Barque - three masts, fore, and mainmast are square-rigged, the mizzenmast is usually gaff-rigged. All masts carry mainsail.
• Barquentine - three masts, foremast is square-rigged, the main and mizzenmast are fore-and-aft rigged. Also called the schooner barque.
• Polacca - three masts, foremast is square-rigged, the main and mizzenmast are lateen-rigged.
• Xebec - three masts, all masts are lateen-rigged.

A barque has three or four masts. The fore and mainmast are square-rigged, and the mizzen fore-and-aft, usually gaff-rigged. Carries a mainsail on each mast, but the mainsail shape differs per mast (square or gaff). Barques were built with up to five masts. Four-masted barques were quite common.

Barques were a good alternative to full-rigged ships because they require a lot fewer sailors. But they were also slower. Very popular rig for ocean crossings, so a great rig for merchants who travel long distances and don't want 30 - 50 sailors to run their ship.

Barquentine

The barquentine usually has three masts. The foremast is square-rigged and the main and mizzenmast fore-and-aft. The rear masts are usually gaff-rigged.

Faster than a barque or a schooner, but the performance is worse than both.

The polacca or polacre rig has three masts with a square-rigged foremast. The main and mizzenmast are lateen-rigged. Beautiful boat to see. Polacca literally means 'Polish' (it's Italian). It was a popular rig type in the Mediterranean in the 17th century. It looks like the xebec, which has three lateen-rigged masts.

Fun fact: polaccas were used by a Dutch sailor-turned-Turkish-pirate (called Murat Reis).

The xebec is a Mediterranean trading ship with three masts. All masts are lateen-rigged. I couldn't find any surviving xebecs, only models and paintings. So I guess this rig is outdated a long time.

A boat with three or more masts that all carry square-rigged sails is called a ship, a tall ship, or a full-rigged ship. So it's at this point that we start calling boats 'ships'. It has nothing to do with size but with the type of rigging.

More sails mean less stress on all of them. These ships use a lot of sails to distribute the forces, which reduces the stress on the rigging and the masts. Square sails mean double the sail area in comparison to triangular sails.

They are quite fast for their size, and they could outrun most sloops and schooners (schooners were relatively a lot heavier). The reason is that tall ships could be a lot longer than sloops, giving them a lot of extra hull speed. Sloops couldn't be as large because there weren't strong enough materials available. Try making a single triangular sail with a sail area of over 500 sq. ft. from linen.

So a lot of smaller sails made sense. You could have a large ship with a good maximum hull speed, without your sails ripping apart with every gust of wind.

But you need A LOT of sailors to sail a tall ship: about 30 sailors in total to ie. reef down sails and operate the ship. That's really a lot.

Tall ships are used nowadays for racing, with the popular tall ship races traveling the world. Every four years I go and check them out when they are at Harlingen (which is very close to where I live).

Check out the amazing ships in this video of the tall ship races last year near my hometown. (The event was organized by friends of mine).

What is the difference between a schooner and a sloop? A schooner has two masts, whereas the sloop only has one. The schooner carries more sails, with a mainsail on both masts. Also, sloops are usually Bermuda-rigged, whereas schooners are usually gaff-rigged. Most schooners also carry one or two additional headsails, in contrast to the single jib of the sloop.

What do you call a two-masted sailboat? A two-masted sailboat is most likely a yawl, ketch, schooner, or brig. To determine which one it is you have to locate the mainmast (the tallest). At the rear: schooner or brig. In front: yawl or ketch. Brigs have a square-rigged foremast, schooners don't. Ketches carry a mainsail on the rear mast; yawls don't.

What is a sloop rig? A sloop rig is a sailboat with one mast and two sails: a mainsail and headsail. It's a simple sail plan that handles well and offers good upwind performance. The sloop rig can be sailed shorthanded and is able to sail very close to the wind, making it very popular. Most recreational sailboats use a sloop rig.

What is the difference between a ketch and a yawl? The most important difference between a ketch and a yawl are the position and height of the mizzenmast. The mizzenmast on a yawl is located aft of the rudder, is shorter than the mainmast and doesn't carry a mainsail. On a ketch, it's nearly as long as the mainmast and carries a mainsail.

There are a wonderful lots of DIY changeability shows on the cable airwaves these days.

Rick the rigger

There are SO many errors on this site it really should be taken down.

First major mistake is to say you are no longer afraid of the sea.

One that truly gets up my nose is the term ‘fully’ rigged ship. It’s a FULL rigged ship!! Your mast names are the wrong way round and just because there may be 3 it doesn’t automatically mean the one in the middle is the main.

I could go on and totally destroy your over inflated but fragile ego but I won’t. All I will say is go learn a lot more before posting.

Shawn Buckles

Thanks for your feedback. If you like to point out anything more specific, please let me know and I will update the articles. I’ve changed fully-rigged to full-rigged ship - which is a typo on my part. I try to be as concise as I can, but, obviously, we all make mistakes every now and then. The great thing about the internet is that we can learn from each other and update our knowledge together.

If you want to write yourself and share your knowledge, please consider applying as a writer for my blog by clicking on the top banner.

Thanks, Shawn

Well, I feel that I’ve learned a bit from this. The information is clear and well laid out. Is it accurate? I can’t see anything at odds with the little I knew before, except that I understood a xebec has a square rigged centre mainmast, such as the Pelican ( https://www.adventureundersail.com/ )

Hi, Shawn, You forgot (failed) to mention another type of rig? The oldest type of rig known and still functions today JUNK RIG!

Why are so many of the comments here negative. I think it is wonderful to share knowledge and learn together. I knew a little about the subject (I’m an Aubrey-Maturin fan!) but still found this clarified some things for me. I can’t comment therefore on the accuracy of the article, but it seems clear to me that the spirit of the author is positive. We owe you some more bonhomme I suggest Shawn.

As they say in the Navy: “BZ” - for a good article.

Been reading S.M. Stirling and wanted to understand the ship types he references. Thank you, very helpful.

This site is an awesome starting point for anyone who would like to get an overview of the subject. I am gratefull to Shawn for sharing - Thanks & Kudos to you! If the negative reviewers want to get a deeper technical knowledge that is accurate to the n-th then go study the appropriate material. Contribute rather than destroy another’s good work. Well done Shawn. Great job!

Good stuff Shawn - very helpful. As a novice, it’s too confusing to figure out in bits and pieces. Thanks for laying it out.

First of all I have to say that Rick ‘the rigger’ is obviously the one with the “over inflated but fragile ego” and I laughed when you suggested he share his knowledge on your blog, well played!

As for the content it’s great, hope to read more soon!

Alec Lowenthal

Shawn, I have a painting of a Spanish vessel, two masted, with. Lateen sails on both masts and a jib. The mainsail is ahead of the main mast (fore) and the other is aft of the mizzen mast. Would this be what you call lugger rig? I have not seen a similar picture. Thanks, Alec.

Thank you for your article I found easy to read and understand, and more importantly remember, which emphasises the well written.. Pity about the negative comments, but love your proactive responses!

This vessel, “SEBASTIAN” out of Garrucha, Almería, España, was painted by Gustave Gillman in 1899.

Sorry, picture not accepted!

Thank you for a very informative article. I sail a bit and am always looking for more knowledge. I like the way you put forth your info and I feel if you can’t say anything positive, then that person should have their own blog or keep their opinions to their-self. I will be looking for more from you. I salute your way of dealing with negative comments.

Thank you for a great intro to sailing boats! I searched different sailboats because I use old sails tp make bags and wanted to learn the difference. Way more than I ever expected. Thanks for all the work put in to teach the rest of us.

Your description of a cutter is lacking, and your illustrations of “cutters” are actually cutter-rigged sloops. On a true cutter, the mast is moved further aft (with more than 40% of the ship forward of the mast). A sloop uses tension in the backstay to tension the luff of the foresail. The cutter can’t do this.

Also, a bermuda-rigged ketch will have a line running from the top of the mainmast to the top of the mizzenmast.

wow great guide to rig types! thanks

Interesting guide, however I am confused about the description of the brig. You say the main mast on a brig can have a lateen sail, but in your picture it looks like a gaff sail to me. How is it a lateen sail?

Hi Shawn, thank you for taking the time to share this information. It is clear and very helpful. I am new to sailing and thinking of buying my own blue water yacht. The information you have supplied is very useful. I still am seeking more information on performance and safety. Please keep up the good work. Best Regards

mickey fanelli

I’m starting to repair a model sailboat used in the lake I have three masts that have long been broken off and the sails need replacement. So my question is there a special relationship between the three masts I do have reminents of where the masts should go. they all broke off the boat along with the sails I can figure out where they go because of the old glue marks but it makes no sense. or does it really matter on a model thank you mickey

Cool, total novice here. I have learnt a lot. Thanks for sharing - the diagrams along with the text make it really easy to understand, especially for a beginner who hasn’t even stepped on a sailing boat.

Daryl Beatt

Thank you. Cleared up quite a few things for me. For example, I was familiar with the names “Xebecs” and “Polaccas” from recent reading about the Barbary War. I had gathered that the two Barbary types were better suited to sailing in the Med, but perhaps they were less able to be adaptable to military uses,(but one might assume that would be ok if one plans to board and fight, as opposed to fight a running gun duel). Specifically, the strangely one sided August 1, 1801 battle between the USS Enterprise under Lt. John Sterett and the Polacca cruiser Tripoli under Admiral Rais Mahomet Rous. On paper both ships seemed nearly equal in size, guns and crew, but pictures of the battle are confusing. While the Enterprise is usually rendered as the familiar schooner, the polacca Tripoli has been pictured in radically different ways. Thus the Wikipedia picture by Hoff in 1878 used to illustrate the Battle shows a Brig design for Tripoli, indicating 77 years later, polaccas were no longer common.

Lee Christiansen

I am curious as to what you would call a modern race boat with a fractional jib,not equipped for full masthead hoist? Thanks Lee

Thanks Guy: The information and pictures really eliminate a lot of the mystery of the terminology and the meanings. Also appreciate the insight of the handling idiosyncrasies “hand” (staff) requirements to manage a vessel for one that has not been on the water much. I long to spend significant time afloat, but have concern about the ability to handle a vessel due to advancing age. The Significant Other prefers to sit (in AC comfort)and be entertained by parties of cruise line employees. Thanks again for the information.

Gordon Smith

Your discussion made no mention of the galleon, a vessel with either square-rigged Fore and Main masts and a shorter lateen-rigged Mizzen, or, on larger galleons, square-rigged Fore and Main masts, with a lateen-rigged Mizzen and a lateen-rigged Bonaventure mast, both shorter than either the Fore or Main masts. Also, it was not uncommon for a galleon to hoist a square-rigged bowsprit topsail in addition to the usual square-rigged spritsail.

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Practical Boat Owner

• Digital edition

Getting to grips with gaff

• David Harding
• October 1, 2015

With modern designs in the classic style becoming ever more popular, David Harding offers some tips on getting the best from a gaffer

Cornish Shrimpers in Poole Week. Credit: David Harding/SailingScenes

There’s no question about it: modern gaffers are go.

Almost wherever you look around our shores the number of boats sporting bowsprits, gaff rigs and tan (or perhaps cream) sails is on the increase .

The appeal of these classic-style designs with a modern twist is easy to see.

They combine echoes of traditional charm with modern convenience and, in many cases, surprisingly good performance to boot.

Download the article as it appeared in Practical Boat Owner’s June 2015 issue here.

Cornish Shrimper 172, Poole Week 2014. Credit: David Harding/SailingScenes

Enjoyable practicality

More often than not, people who own boats like this have never sailed with a gaff rig before but enjoy its practicality apart from anything else.

With boats of a trailable size , trailing and rigging is generally simpler than with a Bermudan rig because of the shorter spars, lower rig tension and absence of spreaders.

The gaff rig’s centre of effort is typically lower, so a lifting keel can be lighter and less complicated.

Dropping the mainsail is easier and downwind performance excellent even without a spinnaker.

True, upwind efficiency might not match that of a Bermudan rig, but modern gaffers have been known to give ‘pointy-sail’ boats of similar size a run for their money.

That’s a function not only of rig developments, such as high-peak gaffs and, in some instances, carbon spars, but also of the hulls beneath the rigs.

In fact, the difference in performance between traditional old gaffers and many of the new breed is becoming so great that discussions are taking place within the Old Gaffers’ Association – in whose events modern gaffers frequently now take part – about how to handicap the old versus the new.

For example, in the big and breezy race of the Old Gaffers’ 50th anniversary event in Cowes, Andrew Wolstenholme’s Kite – featured in PBO – barely saw any other boats in her class and was effectively racing in the class above.

Light and slippery designs like this will readily surf downwind.

They take ‘gaffering’ into a whole new territory.

Pulling strings

Whether or not you’re interested in performance in absolute terms, tweaking a gaffer can be both challenging and rewarding.

And if you want to race, the competition is there: just look at the Cornish Shrimpers .

In Poole we have strong Shrimper fleets sailing from two clubs and involving owners who have previously raced classes ranging from performance dinghies and J/24s to IOR designs in Ton Cup campaigns.

That the Shrimper is not fast by any standards doesn’t make winning any easier.

The best tactical sailors often come from the slowest boats.

We’re using the Shrimper as the model in this feature because of her popularity and because the simple, high-peak gaff rig is typical of that seen on other modern gaffers such as the Norfolk Gypsy.

When it comes to trimming and techniques , the same principles apply to many boats of similar ilk.

To see what makes a Shrimper tick, I sailed on two boats that are usually to be found towards the sharp end of the fleet in Poole – Richard Hornby’s Kingfisher, No898, and Roatan, No575, sailed by Peter and Judy Fontes.

Although the sails on a gaffer are a different shape from those on a Bermudan rig – the mainsail especially – the same fundamental principles apply.

You have to learn some new names and pull some different strings, but your objectives remain the same in terms of optimising draught position, camber, twist and so on.

If you’re used to tweaking a Bermudan rig to good effect there’s no reason why you shouldn’t quickly get the hang of a modern gaff.

For all the similarities, however, one essential to bear in mind when sailing a gaffer – especially one like a Shrimper – is that it rarely pays to strap everything in tight and try to point.

You will stop – or as good as.

Boats of this nature don’t generate the same lift from their rigs or their flat steel centreplates as a modern fin-keeler.

They have to be sailed further off the wind. Maintaining momentum is the key, because once they’ve stopped they take some coaxing to get going again.

The boom needs to be outboard of the quarter; slightly further outboard in lighter winds and closer to the centreline in fresher breezes if the water is flat.

Because of the relatively low rig tension on a gaffer, the jib is cut to accommodate forestay sag. As on a Bermudan rig, more wind calls for a tighter forestay to stop the sag becoming too great.

Judy is chief string-puller on Roatan, leaving Peter to concentrate on helming, and says that forestay tension is rarely adjusted during a race because, particularly in close quarters round-the-cans racing in the harbour, there’s not enough time. Everyone agrees that the tension of the jib sheet is far more important.

A less consensual topic is sail colour.

Shrimper sails were traditionally made from tan cloth and some owners disapprove of the growing trend for cream or white sails.

The problem is that it’s hard to see the leeward telltales through a tan jib, which is why many Shrimpers now have sails (or, like Roatan, just the jib) in a paler colour.

The relatively recent adoption of windows in the luff is an alternative solution.

Photo credit: David Harding/SailingScenes

A quick recap

Downwind/lighter winds: slacken outhaul, throat halyard and peak halyard. Upwind/stronger winds: tension outhaul, throat halyard and peak halyard.

Stronger winds all round: tension kicker.

Any conditions: don’t over-sheet the jib. Keep the boom outboard of the quarter.

Areas of imprecision

With a gaff rig, you have to get used to the fact that the yard and the long, heavy boom will bounce and swing around in a seaway – as illustrated by this sequence of Kingfisher in a light breeze and poppy sea.

There’s nothing you can do about it other than use the kicking strap to help keep the boom under control and make sure you sail free enough to keep the sails driving and the boat moving.

The flyaway jib stick

Moving to the Shrimper after many years of racing Albacores, Peter and Judy Fontes brought with them the flyaway jib stick.

With the inboard end remaining attached to an uphaul/downhaul system on the mast and the outboard end to the clew of the jib, it not only allows the jib to be poled out for goose-winging but also helps to control the twist on a reach.

Upwind, the inboard end is pulled up the mast so the pole exerts no influence and simply follows the jib across during tacks.

The idea has been widely adopted within the Shrimper fleet.

Instead of hooking to a ring on the mast, the inboard end of the pole remains attached to an uphaul:downhaul system

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A sailmaker’s view

I asked several of the leading sailmakers in the Shrimper fleet for their tips, and Dick Batt of Batt Sails offered the following.

Although we were discussing Batt’s sails for Shrimpers specifically, these suggestions apply equally to a wide range of modern gaffers.

• Keep the jib powerful. It will be designed with luff hollow to accommodate the inevitable forestay sag on a gaffer. Set the car position to give it enough twist and don’t be tempted to over-sheet, though you can sheet it tighter in more breeze and in flat water than in light airs and a chop.
• Make sure your mainsail has a reasonably straight exit at the leech. Like many gaffers, the Shrimper naturally carries weather helm and too much curvature in the leech will exacerbate this tendency. So if the draught has blown aft, as tends to happen with old sails as they stretch, your boat will become both slower and heavier on the helm.
• Gaff is not gunter! Mainsails like the Shrimper’s are high-peak gaffs, but trying to angle the yard closer to vertical, like a gunter rig, won’t help. Set the peak halyard tension to achieve the right amount of twist and keep the leech telltales flying.

Richard’s tips

• Maintain momentum: get the boat going, keep it going.
• Back the jib: during a tack, back the jib to help the bow round. Then sail free with the jib relatively loose until you’re back up to speed.
• Peter and Judy’s tips
• Tack only when you need to: tacking costs at least three hard-won boat-lengths.
• Upgrade the hardware: fit what you need to allow easy adjustment. Most fast Shrimpers now have winches, clutches and low-friction track systems.

Gaff rigs provide plenty of strings to pull and offer more than enough scope for inveterate tweakers.

For some gaffer owners there are few greater pleasures than surprising the crew of a boat with a Bermudan rig.

Whatever your ambitions, it’s always worth talking to people who sail something similar.

Better still, sail with or race against other boats of the same type, whether in a club race, a rally or a cruise in company.

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The Joys of the Gaff Rig

By Duncan Blair

The bisquine “Cancalise” flying nine sails. From Working Sail, by Luke Powell, the Dorset Press, Ltd. U.K. 2012

I have been giving a lot of thought to the gaff rig lately, partly because I recently bent on a new gaff mainsail to my new gaff sloop and also because much of my writing involves gaff rigged boats of different sizes doing different things in different environments.

I am interested in luggers, especially the big, two-masted “bisquines” of Brittany, but I am an American living in Florida where luggers have always been rare and gaffers have mostly been forgotten.

I am not so much interested in the origins and evolution of the gaff rig as I am interested in it’s history of use over the past 200–300 years, as well as its continuing use.

Tom Cunliffe, author of Hand, Reef and Steer, writes that “deep-hulled gaffers and their sail plans are at the end of a line of natural development that stretches back to the time of Christ.”

Historical perspective is always valuable.

While I realize that Tom Cunliffe has several more decades of experience with gaffers than I do, I will respectfully point out that the United States has a rich history of shallow-hulled gaffers, including scows, sloops and schooners used for fishing, oystering and hauling a wide variety of cargoes, including illegal booze during Prohibition. This wide spectrum of hull types shows just how adaptable to different circumstances and environments the gaff rig is; English Channel to the Gulf of Mexico, the Dogger Bank to the Grand Banks.

Here is a list, not intended to be exhaustive, of the characteristics that I find to be important in gaffers. None of them are unique to gaffers—what I find to be of interest is that so many of them are found in gaffers.

1. STRENGTH Gaffers typically have masts that are shorter than modern, bermuda rigged boats. The masts are often solid wood and are heavily stayed. Apart from the beautiful but extreme gaff rigged racing yachts of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, most gaffers do not look like radio antenna towers requiring a cat’s cradle of wire rope rigging to do their job. I find the inherent strength of solid wood, properly stayed where necessary, to be both attractive and reliable. I also like the running backstays; the “Sticks and String” approach encourages situational awareness. Having used them, I do not care for Highfield Levers.

2. BEAUTY Beauty is almost always subjective, some people even seem to like reverse sheer lines.

In 2017 my wife and I were in Maine aboard a schooner in the Gulf of Maine, where we had a nearly spiritual encounter with a Herreshoff New York 30, a classic gaff sloop. When we first saw her we were at anchor and she was about a quarter of a mile away from us, upwind. She looked like a knife in the water, except for her very large mainsail. We watched as she dropped her foresail and came down toward us, headed for the anchorage full of boats moored to buoys. As she came closer we could read the number on her sail: NY2.

The captain of our schooner jerked out his I phone and began searching for her history. She quietly, gracefully, sailed down closer to us, then snaked through the field of buoys and moored boats like a Sunfish, then scandalized her peak as one person strolled forward from the cockpit.

The way came off of her, she just “kissed” her mooring buoy and she was secured. Presto! It was one of the most beautiful pieces of boat handling I have ever seen.

NEW YORK 30. Sail area 984 sq. ft. 30 feet on the waterline, 43 feet overall. classicyachtinfo.com

Designed by Nathaniel Herreshoff for the New York Yacht Club in 1905. Only 18 NY30s were built and only by the Herreshoff, coming out of his yard at the rate of one finished hull per week. I have read that 12 of them are still in service, re-built but just as beautiful. I believe that the price in 1905 was $14,000. There is one for sale today on the Internet for $390,000.

I am, emphatically, not a yachtsman, but the beauty, grace, agility and proportion of the NY30, especially her gaff mainsail, are awesome. Very few gaffers are as beautiful as the NY30, which, because she was a yacht, really did not have to “work for her living”.

But almost every gaffer, however old, beat-up or home made, exhibits the sensuous curves of her gaff sail, especially when the wind is on her quarter. Looking aloft, from wherever you are on deck, you are presented with a curvaceous spread of canvas, in multiple planes, the curves accented by the straight lines of the gaff, gaff span and peak halyard and accented as well by the vertical seams of the sail running parallel to the leech.

All of this is framed by the sky and possibly a burgee; hopefully a flag of Scotland, possibly a flag of Cornwall.

Bristol Channel Pilot Cutter EZRA, on the West Coast of Scotland. From Working Sail, by Luke Powell

3. POWER Tom Cunliffe writes that “it would take considerable engine power to drive a 50 foot Bristol Channel Pilot Cutter at the 9 knots she can reach with her sails under ideal conditions.”

The shorter, heavy masts and stays mentioned above enable gaffers to spread a large sail from an easily supported mast. The relative shortness of the gaffer mast, compared to the modern high aspect ratio bermuda rig causes less strain to be transmitted to the gaffer’s hull.

Best of all, the quadrilateral gaff sail carries more sail area up high than the modern bermuda rig. It is a known fact that the wind aloft is “cleaner,” has less turbulence, than the wind alow, which interfaces with the water’s surface.

The gaffer’s ability to utilize this clean wind is one of many reasons for its popularity as a work boat.

Bristol Channel Pilot Cutter TALLULAH, going like a freight train under working sail; 9.5–10 knots.

A lot of ink, possibly some blood and certainly a lot of beer has been spilled arguing that high aspect ratio, triangular sails can consistently drive vessels to windward at a higher angle than gaff rigged sails do, or can.

I do not dispute that, it is true beyond a doubt.

However, like many things in this world, it is not that simple. Here are some other relevant facts about the reality of pointing up to windward.

“Gaff sails are demonstrably more powerful once the wind is beyond 60 degrees from the bow.” Tom Cunliffe To me, 60 degrees off the bow is a close reach.

“Because of their low aspect gaffers are less prone to “stalling” i.e., falling into irons, if oversheeted, than something taller and narrower.” Tom Cunliffe.

It is not, or at least it should not, be the case that pointing high is the only criterion for windward performance.

As stated in #2 above, pointing high, if “over sheeted” is counter productive. Gaffers point up at a lower angle, but can go faster than some high aspect ratio rigs, so when working to windward greater speed over the ground arguably compensates for pointing lower.

Remember also that a gaffer can rig a gaff vang to reduce mainsail twist, can fly a topsail and multiple headsails, including a jib topsail.

Two important points seldom addressed in the pointing up to windward controversy are:

The number of crew members required to trim and tack.

The question—Apart from racing around buoys, how much time and effort are normally spent beating to weather as compared to running, broad reaching, beam reaching and close reaching?

4. VERSATILITY My recent efforts rigging our gaff sloop have made me even more aware of the straight forward approach and logic underlying traditional forms of rigging. Everything is out in the open; blocks, belaying pins, rope that be easily spliced, steering with a simple, no mechanical linkage tiller bar, heavy loads lifted with multiple purchases, no winches and no winch handles, less deck clutter.

It is no more than personal opinion to say that I prefer this level of simplicity over the contemporary approach that is based on stainless steel gizmos (not really all that stainless), many of which are made in China and all of which are expensive if they are even available when you need them.

SOME EXAMPLES OF GAFF RIG SIMPLICITY. Joshua Slocum’s circumnavigation of the planet, done over 100 years ago, was made on an elderly gaff rigged oyster sloop given to Slocum as a gift. Photos #5, 6 and 7 all refer to that sloop, called Spray. She was 39 feet, 6 inches overall; 14 feet, 2 inches in beam; with a draft of 4 feet, 2 inches.

Spray hauled out in Devonport, Tasmania 1897. Note her hull depth and generous beam. From A Man For All Oceans by Stan Grayson, Tilbury House Publications, 2017

Spray in the harbour of Sydney, Australia, sailing with a flowing sheet; this is often described a “the most iconic” of Spray photos. From A Man For All Oceans

Spray’s final sail plan, one of many, showing the lug sail mizzen (jigger) added by Slocum in Port Angosto, Chile. From A Man For All Oceans

Because Spray came to Slocum as an oyster sloop she had a main sail with an area of over 700 square feet, necessary to pull the oyster dredge. A mainsail this big required the boom to extend out over Spray’s transom. After deciding to add the lug sail jigger Slocum took a handsaw and cut off the end of the boom so as not to hit the new mizzen, which was “a hardy young spruce, discovered on the beach.” This resulted in the mainsail area being reduced to an area of 604 square feet.

The addition of a lug sail mizzen was interesting, possibly the result of Slocum’s life experience in working sail; something useful, powerful, easily repaired or replaced. A final point to be made about the versatility of the gaff rig is its ability to allow you to “take your foot off the gas”, without loosing forward motion, by scandalizing the peak. (This is what we saw the NY30 do in Maine.)

Scandalizing is the term used to describe loosening the peak halyard enough to drop the gaff to the horizontal, thereby reducing some, but not all, of the power of the sail. This is practical—when you understand what needs to be done—and easy to do, but it is not even an option for high aspect ratio rigs.

Terrapin Schooner design by Reuel Parker—a turtle fisherman’s workboat adapted as a yacht. Built about 20 years ago, with a Bateau type hull made of laminated, cold-moulded plywood, with an epoxy/fabric top layer. Topsides and deck 5/8 inch plywood. 34 feet overall, 10 feet of beam, 2 feet, 3 inches draft. Sail area 600 square feet, spars are solid Douglas fir. Photo shows run of the hull, centerboard and rudder.

TOMFOOLERY, the Terrapin schooner “sailing with a flowing sheet.”

This image says it all!

PAU As always, all ideas and opinions stated above are mine alone.

Duncan Blair

Duncan Blair’s Traditional Sail Website can be found HERE

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Gaff rig: past, present and future

In this article, first published in Water Craft Magazine, November/December 2015, designer Andrew Wolstenholme suggests there's more to modern gaffers than 'nostalgia-lite'.

The gaff rig is viewed by most modern sailors as a throwback to a bygone era, aesthetically pleasing in a traditional way but less efficient and more complicated than the predominant Bermudan rig.

Whilst there are some grounds for this view, there remains a degree of misunderstanding and gaff has much more to offer today’s sailor than a pretty face.

The evolution of all man-made artefacts is driven by the needs and ingenuity of those around at the time along with the materials and technology available to them. When sail and oar were the only means of propelling boats, development and refinement of the sailing rig was intense, but with limited means of communication, ideas took time to spread. All around the world boatbuilders developed craft and rigs to meet the needs of local fishermen and traders, some of whom may have travelled no more than a few miles up and down the coast in their entire lifetime. Where the ongoing development of today's rigs is driven by sales to the leisure sailor, the early gaff rigs were developed for commercial purposes and had to meet the utilitarian needs of impecunious boatmen.

The predecessor of gaff rig, the square rig, was a crude fabric sail simply hung from a horizontal yard. In the fore-and-aft gaff rig the yard is swung to one side having one end resting against the mast. The sail remains simply supported by the yard, now called the gaff. Masts, usually a simple wooden pole, didn't need to be overlong to support a given amount of sail. The gaff could double up as a derrick for lifting cargo and equipment on or off the boat. In summary, the gaff was simple and robust, practical and seamanlike, and crucially, cost effective.

In contrast the Bermudan rig evolved at the behest of the leisure sailor and was only feasible due to new innovations in material technology, allowing tall lightweight spars, high strength rigging and fittings with improved sailcloths. In this high tech age, gaff still has much to commend it. The Bermudan rig is undeniably more efficient to windward but gaff's reputation for poor windward ability is largely down to the hull on which the rig is set.

A well set up gaff rig on an efficient modern hull will put up a very creditable performance against Bermudan rigged opposition. Downwind, the low aspect ratio gaff main is more efficient than the high aspect ratio Bermudan which has to resort to the use of a spinnaker. ‘Alice III' is a case in point with her Simon Rogers' designed race bred hull topped by a powerful carbon sparred gaff topsail rig, a veritable wolf in sheep's clothing! Nigel Irens' gaff schooner ‘Maggie B' raised the bar with her clean hull and weight-saving carbon rig, resulting in a step change in performance.

" A gaffer will outsail some Bermudan boats "

The old working boats had heavy, solid timber spars and chunky fittings. They had no alternative. Today there is no need to carry so much weight aloft. Weight high up must be counterbalanced by even more weight on the bottom of the boat if she is to be powerful enough to carry sufficient sail. Reduce the top weight and the all up weight of the boat can be cut down to give improved performance or the ability to carry yet more sail.

For those who need to fold their mast down easily like th Broads yachts, Dutch boats and trailer sailers, then the lighter and shorter the rig can be made the easier life will be. Hollow timber spars are lighter than solid ones, and extruded aluminium ones are generally lighter again, but the greatest advances are to be made by using carbon fibre. Bermudan spars are elliptical in cross section as they need greater stiffness fore and aft than they do athwartships, because of the way that they are stayed. This makes for an expensive carbon spar. Gaff spars on the other hand are generally round, ideally suited to cost effective cylindrical carbon tubes making them a viable proposition. In addition to this the tall Bermudan mast requires complex staying and the narrow shroud base relative to the height of the mast plus the need for good headsail luff tension leads to high rigging loads. Conversely the shorter gaff mast is simpler to support and less highly loaded.

By using carbon spars on my own little trailer sailer ‘Kite' I was able to keep the weight of the rig down which in turn meant that I could minimise the weight of the ballast, keeping her all up weight to just 3/4ton/750kgs, making her easily trailed behind a 2litre car. Her short tabernacle stepped mast is only 17ft long and weighs just 15lbs so raising and lowering it is simplicity itself and once down it fits within the length of the boat.

Her light hull powered by a fine set of McNamara sails, results in a boat which is fast on all points of sail. When I started sketching out ideas for ‘Kite’ I had an open mind on the rig, and it was not my intention to go for gaff, but as my ideas evolved it became clear that gaff was the simplest and most practical rig for the boat. 

Probably the first boat with carbon spars and a traditional-looking rig was Nigel Irens’ modern take on the Shetland lugger, ‘Roxanne’. Nigel adapted the technology familiar to him, working as a leading multihull designer, to create this innovative and elegant, 'spirit of tradition' design.

I think it no coincidence that the French are probably the most forward thinking in their development of gaff rig with a cross fertilisation of ideas from the multihull builders and designers of northwest France into the local monohull daysailers. The Dutch too have moved gaff forward with numerous one design half-deckers sporting hollow timber spars with bolt rope tracks and carefully designed lightweight fittings, and others with simple aluminium sparred and carbon fibre rigs.

" In the UK we have tended to take a more traditionalist approach to gaff "

In the UK we have tended to take a more traditionalist approach to gaff, favouring the preservation of the old boats with their rigs and methods, although we have seen more open-minded development in recent years. The new plastic gaffers which appeared in the late 1970s and early 1980s targeted the nostalgia market. They largely stayed with very traditional rigs and hull forms.

The Dutch have long favoured curved gaffs on their traditional rigs but in a recent interesting development, the late Ted Spears of North Quay Marine took this a step further with the rig on his Spitfire 19. Here he used a longer curved gaff, combined with a full roach to mimic the efficient elliptical WW2 Spitfire fighter’s wing shape for the main, to maximize both upwind and downwind efficiency.

Roger Dongray’s Cornish Shrimper has probably been the most commercially successful of the genre and with good reason. Her builders, Cornish Crabbers  were originally the racing dinghy specialists, Westerly Boats. The Shrimper incorporated modern fittings for efficient sail handling, a square section timber bowsprit, boom, and gaff to keep build costs down.

She retained the appeal of timber spars whilst setting an efficient high aspect ratio gaff rig. This proved to be a winning combination of the old and the new. The new Shrimper 21 sticks pretty much to the same formula but with a little more space and minor but important refinements.

A gaff mainsail can be simply depowered by scandalising the main (dropping the peak), and when reefed it doesn't have lots of now redundant mast left high above the deck as is the case with Bermudan. A Bermudan mainsail with a modern jiffy reefing system is likely to be viewed as easier to reef than a traditional long footed gaff mainsail but a modern gaff main with a shorter foot and a carefully thought out reefing system will be similarly easy to reef. Windage of the mast and rigging is an important issue for performance, and the Bermudan rig has an advantage here, so every effort must be taken when designing a gaff rig to minimize clutter and keep it as simple and clean as possible.

Over the last few years we have seen the emergence of the ‘fathead’ main on Bermudan rigs. The narrow triangular head of a conventional Bermudan mainsail works inefficiently due to the disturbed airflow aft of the mast, but new developments in sailcloth technology have made it possible to clip off the top of the mast and sail and create a wide mainsail head which is not dissimilar to a very high aspect ratio gaff main and topsail. Weight is saved high above the deck by reducing the mast length, windage reduced and mainsail efficiency is improved. This innovation narrows the gap between gaff and Bermudan and it will be interesting to see how it continues to evolve.

Our fondness for gaff rig was born through the old working boats, and long may they continue to be loved and sailed, but maybe the time is right for a true re-birth of gaff. The first steps in this latest stage of the rig's evolution have been taken and I believe that the future for gaff is bright, but it is up to designers, builders and most importantly the customers, to encourage its continued development.

Browse the OGA gallery of some modern gaffers.

© Andrew Wolstenholme first published in Water Craft Magazine, November/December 2015

Water Craft Magazine

"One detail which may be of interest to you and your readers is that many of the gaff rigs that I've specified make use of a single halyard for the gaff.  It is made possible by the relatively short gaffs that I prefer, arranged much like the gaff rigs on the Baltimore Pilot Vessels of the last century."

"As I have discovered on my own 34 foot gaff schooner EMERALD, with short gaffs there is no need for a peak halyard.  Luff tension is adjusted at the gooseneck.  The benefit is to simplify the rig, to always keep the gaff in the same attitude while raising and lowering, to increase luff length for better windward sailing, to reduce weight aloft, and to eliminate those pesky tops'ls." "On a schooner I do like to use a fisherman tops'l, as it provides enough area to be of excellent use.  The gaff tops'ls however are more trouble than they are worth (IMHO)." Michael Kasten , November 20, 2000

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Sailing a Tom Colvin Gaff Rigged Schooner

Tom Colvin was a naval architect who is revered for his extremely sea worthy steel sailboats. A friend of mine invited me along to take a look at one that has been sitting in the water for the past 6 years with no maintenance. The motor was dead and the rigging had been neglected, but at her heart, she is a sailboat who wants to explore!

With no motor, we sculled her out of her slip and almost made it out of the marina when the wind picked up. The headwind sent us right back into the marina and we changed course for a near by pier. After tying up, we ran a warp line from the schooner to the finger pier at the end of the marina (approximately 200 feet away) and secured the bitter end to a mooring cleat. Then we began pulling the boat by the warp line until we cleared the gap and came alongside the finger pier. The wind was directly on our nose, so we walked the boat all the way around the marina until we in a more favorable location. The wind was now on our beam and we would be simply push off the edge with plenty of seaway to get the sails up, kind of like jumping off a cliff with a glider.

We raised the staysail and foresail as we readied for launch. Once free of the pier, we raised the mainsail and jib and began our shakedown cruise under full sail! 

Gaff rigged schooners are an entirely different animal from any modern day rig. They carry immense amounts of sail area close to the water to avoid excessive heeling. The sails are spread out fore-aft instead of up-down. Since the sails are shorter, the masts are also shorter and rigging loads are lesser. This translates into much less tension on the stays allowing them to be easily rigged with wooden deadeyes and lashings. These large broad sails also require extra control lines which offer endless adjustability.

On a normal triangular sail, there are three corners (head, tack, clew) where on a gaff rig, there are four corners with their own names (head, throat, tack, clew). These extra control lines add extra complexity to sail trimming, but endless possibilities are available to you. Twist is entirely up to you as you can sheet in the end of the gaff to cup the sail or sheet it out to spill excess wind. 

We sailed around the inner harbor for a while, tacking and jibing our way up the river. Then the time came for me to return to shore, as I had an afternoon appointment that I needed to attend. The plan was to beam reach over to the pier and glide up alongside it, dropping sails and coming to a stop. What really happened is we lost our wind as we approached, lost our speed and started drifting to leeward putting us on a collision course with the fuel pier. 

We turned downwind to lessen the impact and to try to bring the boat broadside to the pier. The main concern was the 8 foot bowsprit taking out the fuel pumps! As we came in for the collision, two of us jumped ship with docklines to cleat them quickly and bring the boat to a halt. 

Thankfully, no damage occurred because The bobstay absorbed most of the impact and the steel hull was unphased by the collision! This was the conclusion of my journey aboard this wonderful steel schooner, but just the beginning for my friends who are looking to acquire her.

They are planning to circumnavigate the Northern Circle, sailing North of Canada, Alaska, and Russia. A steel hull will be a dream come true when dealing with icy waters, and a gaff rigged schooner will be wonderful during high latitude gales. 

I look forward to seeing their story progress through the years!

Gaff Rig Sailboat: A Classic and Timeless Sailing Experience

by Emma Sullivan | Aug 14, 2023 | Sailboat Gear and Equipment

== Short answer gaff rig sailboat: == A gaff rig sailboat is a type of sailing vessel that features a specific rigging system consisting of a four-sided fore-and-aft sail called a gaff sail. This traditional design offers numerous advantages including simplicity, ease of handling, and excellent downwind performance. Gaff rigged boats are commonly seen in traditional and recreational sailing settings.

Understanding the Gaff Rig Sailboat: A Comprehensive Guide

Sailing is truly a timeless pursuit that continues to captivate enthusiasts worldwide. Among the various types of sailboats, the gaff rig sailboat stands out as a unique and intriguing vessel. With its distinct mast and triangular sails, this traditional design is both awe-inspiring and efficient on the water. In this comprehensive guide, we delve into the key aspects of understanding and appreciating the gaff rig sailboat.

The Glory of Gaff Rig Sailboat Design

At first glance, a gaff rig sailboat immediately catches one’s eye with its striking visual appeal. Unlike modern sloop or cutter rigged boats, it proudly exhibits an imposing wooden or aluminum mast that slopes aft at an angle. Attached to this distinctive feature are two sets of sails – a larger mainsail and a smaller headsail.

These sails grant the gaff rig sailboat unparalleled gracefulness while sailing by providing superior power in light winds. Due to their relatively lower aspect ratio compared to other rigs, they generate increased lift, resulting in remarkable upwind performance. This makes the gaff rig not only aesthetically pleasing but also an excellent choice for those seeking both beauty and functionality on the water.

Advanced Maneuverability with Gaff Rig Sails

One advantageous feature of the gaff rig sailboat lies in its versatile sailing capabilities. The unique arrangement of sails allows skilled sailors to expertly trim each individual sail according to wind conditions – adding an extra layer of challenge for those looking to refine their skills.

Furthermore, unlike more modern rigs where adjustments may be limited by complex systems, controlling the sails on a gaff rig boat is simpler yet equally effective. By tweaking halyards and sheets with precision, sailors can achieve optimal balance between power and wind direction without compromising safety or maneuverability.

Embrace Tradition & Classic Seamanship Values

Beyond its exceptional performance characteristics, embracing a gaff rig sailboat allows sailors to immerse themselves in the rich history and traditions of sailing. The gaff rig ‘s roots can be traced back centuries, evoking a sense of nostalgia for a bygone era when wooden ships ruled the seas. Sailing enthusiasts who appreciate craftsmanship and classic seamanship values will undoubtedly find solace in the elegance and heritage of this design.

Furthermore, the charm of a wooden or classic looking gaff rig sailboat is sure to catch the attention of fellow mariners and onlookers alike. Owning such an awe-inspiring vessel not only grants pride but also serves as a conversation starter, connecting sailors with others who share their passion for the maritime world.

Maintenance & Practical Considerations

While we highlight the beauty and allure of the gaff rig sailboat, it is essential to consider practical aspects as well. Maintenance plays a vital role in preserving its splendor. Wooden masts demand regular varnishing or painting to protect against weathering, whereas aluminum masts require periodic inspection for corrosion.

Similarly, ensuring proper storage during off-seasons or inclement weather must be taken into account. Properly covering the boat and storing it in a dry area contributes significantly to prolonging its lifespan while minimizing potential damage caused by environmental factors.

In conclusion, understanding and appreciating the gaff rig sailboat involves recognizing its unique design features, advanced maneuverability potential, historical significance, and maintenance requirements. By delving into these aspects detailed above, aspiring gaff rig sailors can embark on a rewarding journey that combines tradition with timeless excellence on the water.

How to Rig a Gaff Sailboat: Step-by-Step Instructions

Sailing enthusiasts know that sailing on a gaff-rigged sailboat can be an exhilarating experience. The distinctive triangular shape of the gaff sail gives these boats a classic look and offers unique challenges when it comes to rigging. If you’re new to gaff sailboats or just need a refresher, this step-by-step guide will help you rig your vessel with ease.

Before we dive into the instructions, let’s quickly discuss what elements make up a gaff sailboat’s rigging . A typical gaff-rigged sailboat consists of four essential components: the mast, the boom, the gaff, and of course, the appropriately sized gaff sail itself. Understanding how these parts work together is crucial for successfully setting up your boat for sailing .

Step 1: Preparing Your Boat Start by ensuring that all necessary equipment and tools are readily available. You’ll need halyards (lines used to raise sails), sheets (lines used to control sails), cleats, blocks, shackles, and any other hardware specific to your boat ‘s rigging system. Inspect all lines for wear and tear, replacing any damaged ones before moving forward.

Step 2: Setting up the Mast Securely step your mast in its designated spot using proper supports or partners specifically designed for your boat ‘s mast setup. Make sure it is properly aligned and tightly fastened in place – giving it a gentle shake shouldn’t produce any wiggles! Check that all mast fittings are secure and functional.

Step 3: Attaching the Boom Attach one end of your boom securely onto its fitting at the base of the mast – usually located near deck level – using appropriate shackles or other connecting mechanisms provided by your boat’s manufacturer. Ensure that there is ample clearance around you while doing this step to avoid accidents caused by swinging booms.

Step 4: Rigging the Gaff Insert the gaff onto the mast above the boom, making sure it is seated properly. Some boats may have separate jaws to secure the gaff’s throat – ensure these are securely fastened if your boat has them. Attach halyards near the peak of the gaff and then lead these lines through blocks and fairleads back down to suitable cleats on deck for easy adjustment.

Step 5: Hoisting the Gaff Sail Attach one end of your halyard to a designated point at the head of the gaff sail . Pull on this line, slowly raising the sail up to its maximum height while ensuring it isn’t twisted or snagged on any fittings. Once fully hoisted, secure the other end of the halyard to prevent accidental lowering during sailing .

Step 6: Securing Your Sheets Lead both main and headsail sheets correctly, ensuring they do not interfere with other parts of your rigging system or impede navigation around your boat ‘s deck. Check that both sheets run smoothly through their associated blocks – a well-lubricated block will help avoid unnecessary friction and jumpy maneuvers while adjusting sails .

Step 7: Tensioning Your Sails Now it’s time to achieve optimal sail shape and tension by fine-tuning your rigging setup. Begin with adequate foot tension along with proper boom height adjustment using available control mechanisms specific to your boat model. Experimentation is key here as different wind conditions may warrant slight adjustments for optimal performance .

Rigging a gaff sailboat demands patience, attention to detail, and practice. Each vessel has its unique intricacies regarding rigging setups, so consult your boat’s manual for specific guidance tailored to its design. Regular check-ups and maintenance will keep crucial components in good health for many smooth sailing adventures ahead!

Remember, safety should always be a top priority when working with rigging equipment onboard any sailboat – paying close attention to your surroundings and using appropriate gear is essential. Now, with these step-by-step instructions in mind, you’re ready to get out on the water and gracefully maneuver your gaff sailboat !

FAQs About Gaff Rig Sailboats: All Your Questions Answered!

If you are a sailing enthusiast or have always been fascinated by sailboats, you might have come across the term “gaff rig.” While commonly seen in traditional and classic sailboat designs, gaff rigs also possess unique characteristics that make them stand out from other types of sails. In this article, we aim to shed light on frequently asked questions about gaff rig sailboats and provide you with detailed explanations in a professional yet witty manner.

1. What is a gaff rig?

Ah, the heart and soul of classic sailing! A gaff rig refers to a particular type of sail configuration where the mainsail boasts an additional spar called the “gaff” attached at its head. This lovely triangular shape gives these boats their iconic look and distinguishes them from more modern masthead rigs or even other fore-and-aft rigs like the Bermuda.

2. Why would someone choose a gaff rig over other options?

Why settle for ordinary when you can embrace tradition? People choose gaff rigs for various reasons – perhaps they appreciate the aesthetic charm of vintage vessels or prefer to bask in nostalgia while cruising through gentle breezes. The deeper boom angle on a gaff-rigged boat provides excellent power for downwind sailing, making it a popular choice among those who enjoy leisurely sailing experiences.

3. Are gaff rig sailboats difficult to handle compared to other sail configurations?

Fear not, aspiring sailors! While operating any sailboat requires some level of skill, handling a gaff rig is well within reach for most enthusiasts. With its lower center of effort and multiple control points along the mast and boom, adjusting sails on a gaff-rigged boat might require slightly more attention but can also be incredibly rewarding once mastered.

4. Can I single-hand a gaff rigged vessel?

Absolutely! One-person expeditions are not solely reserved for modern sailboat designs. While gaff rigs may appear intricate, with the right knowledge and practice, solo sailing can be quite manageable. Just remember to take your time, familiarize yourself with the boat’s rigging, and maybe bring along an extra dose of patience – rewarding adventures await!

5. Do gaff rig sailboats perform well in different wind conditions?

Ahoy there! Gaff-rigged boats thrive in light winds or moderate conditions where their remarkably efficient downwind performance shines. Although they may not attain the same impressive speeds as racing yachts in optimal wind conditions, gaff rigs exhibit excellent stability and offer a smooth ride for those seeking a more relaxed sailing experience.

6. Are gaff rig sailboats suitable for long-distance cruising?

Indeed, they are! Many sailors have embarked on exciting journeys aboard trusty gaff-riggers. These vessels provide an ideal platform for leisurely exploration, offering roomy interiors and sturdy construction that can withstand extended stays onboard. So whether you’re planning a coastal adventure or dreaming of circumnavigating the globe, a gaff-rigged sailboat can be a splendid choice .

In conclusion, gaff rig sailboats present an elegant fusion of tradition and functionality that continues to capture the hearts of sailors around the world. With their distinctive aesthetics and solid performance characteristics, these classic vessels offer unique experiences you won’t find elsewhere on the water. So go ahead, embrace your inner adventurer, and set sail on your next grand maritime escapade with a gaff rig sailboat by your side!

Unveiling the Beauty of Gaff Rigged Sailboats: Sailing Through History

Imagine yourself gliding through calm waters, propelled by an elegant and timeless vessel. Enveloped in the beauty of nature, these gaff rigged sailboats carry a unique charm that has captured the hearts of sailors for centuries. Join us as we delve into the captivating world of gaff rigged sailboats and unravel their fascinating history.

The term “gaff rig” refers to a specific type of sailing rig characterized by a triangular sail known as a foresail or headsail, and a quadrilateral sail called the mainsail, which is attached to a horizontal spar referred to as the gaff. This distinctive design dates back several centuries and has been an integral part of maritime history.

One cannot discuss gaff rigged sailboats without acknowledging their historical significance. These vessels were once at the forefront of transportation, facilitating trade and exploration around the globe. From 17th-century naval ships to fishing boats dotting coastal villages, gaff rigged sailboats enabled humanity to brave uncharted waters and discover new horizons.

Beyond their historical importance, what truly sets gaff rigged sailboats apart is their aesthetic appeal. There’s something undeniably captivating about the sight of these majestic vessels with their multiple masts adorned with white sails billowing against an azure sky. The unique silhouette created by the long bowsprit reaching outward adds an extra touch of elegance that simply cannot be replicated by modern rigs.

One might wonder why such traditional craftsmanship still maintains its allure today when more efficient sailing rigs have become prevalent. The answer lies in the inherent romance associated with these classic vessels . Gazing upon a gaff-rigged sailboat evokes nostalgia for simpler times, harkening back to an era where adventure was sought after on wind-powered voyages across vast oceans.

But it is not just nostalgia that keeps these boats sailing proudly into modern times; it is also their practicality. Gaff rigged sailboats excel in maneuverability, as the multiple sails allow for quick and precise adjustments in response to changing wind conditions. This level of control makes sailing a gaff rigged vessel an exhilarating experience that demands both skill and finesse.

For those yearning for a hands-on sailing adventure steeped in tradition, gaff rigged sailboats can offer an exceptional experience. Sailing enthusiasts are drawn to the challenge presented by managing these complex rigs, honing their seamanship skills under sails that have stood the test of time. The satisfaction and pride that come from mastering such a vessel make every voyage aboard a gaff rigged sailboat truly rewarding.

In recent years, there has been a resurgence in interest surrounding gaff rigging, with enthusiasts preserving this rich aspect of maritime heritage. Various regattas celebrate the artistry and craftsmanship of these vessels, bringing together passionate sailors who appreciate the beauty and ingenuity behind gaff rigged sailboats. These gatherings serve as reminders that, even in the modern world, there is always room for embracing traditions with open arms.

As we explore gaff rigged sailboats’ enchanting past and present-day allure, we invite you to step aboard and embark upon your own journey through history. Discover firsthand why these majestic vessels continue to capture our imaginations while honoring the brave sailors who came before us. Embark on your own Odyssey across timeless seas under billowing white sails – where adventure meets elegance on an unforgettable voyage through time.

Mastering the Art of Sailing a Gaff Rig Boat: Tips and Techniques

Mastering the art of sailing a gaff rig boat is no small feat. It requires a keen understanding of the various components and techniques that come together to create a seamless sailing experience. In this blog post, we will unravel the mysteries of gaff rig sailing, providing you with helpful tips and techniques to improve your skills on the water.

Firstly, let’s discuss what exactly a gaff rig is. A gaff rig is a type of sailboat configuration that utilizes four main sails: the mainsail, topsail, foresail, and jib. The mainsail is supported by a wooden spar called a gaff, which gives this rig its distinctive look. Understanding how each sail operates and interacts with one another is essential for navigating smoothly through different wind conditions.

One key technique to master when sailing a gaff rig boat is proper sail trimming. Unlike other rigs where it can be relatively easy to adjust sail shape using modern systems such as in-mast furling or roller furling headsails, gaff rigged boats require more hands-on manipulation. By correctly adjusting controls like halyards and sheets, you can fine-tune the sails’ shapes to maximize efficiency and speed. Experimentation plays an important role here as conditions constantly change; finding that perfect balance between power and handling becomes an ongoing challenge.

Another critical aspect of mastering a gaff rig boat relates to understanding its unique aerodynamics. The triangular shape of the mainsail generates lift much like an airplane wing does when wind flows over it at the correct angle of attack. This effect propels the boat forward! However, unlike airplanes where pilots have control over their wings’ angle of attack using flaps or elevators, sailors must rely on skillfully manipulating their sails’ position relative to the wind direction.

When sailing close-hauled (or close to upwind), it’s essential to keep your boat ‘s speed up by properly trimming your sails and maintaining a close eye on the telltale signs of luffing. Luffing occurs when the wind spills over the front edge of the sail , causing it to flutter, and ultimately losing power. By constantly adjusting your sails’ position, you can prevent luffing and keep your boat moving efficiently .

Furthermore, in downwind sailing, balancing your sails becomes crucial for a smooth and controlled ride. To achieve this, some sailors deploy additional sails like topsails or spinnakers to catch more wind from different angles. The addition of these extra sails not only boosts speed but also helps stabilize the boat by improving its balance from forward to aft.

However, mastering gaff rig sailing is not solely about technical skills; it’s also about embracing the sense of tradition and craftsmanship that comes with this classic rigging style. Sailors who appreciate gaff rigs often take pleasure in understanding how every component works together harmoniously while immersing themselves in the historical significance behind this timeless art form.

In conclusion, mastering the art of sailing a gaff rig boat requires a combination of skillful technique, understanding aerodynamics, and an appreciation for tradition. By honing your sail trimming abilities while being attuned to your boat’s behavior under varying wind conditions, you’ll be well on your way to becoming a true gaff rig connoisseur. So strap into your harnesses and let the winds guide you on an exhilarating journey as you unlock the secrets of gaff rig sailing!

Experience the Majesty of Yacht Sailing in Croatia

Embark on a spectacular sailing journey along the breathtaking coast of Croatia, where the pristine waters and stunning landscapes offer an unparalleled sailing experience. Croatia’s rich maritime heritage blends seamlessly with modern yachting adventures, making it a premier destination for sailors and enthusiasts alike.

Discover the charm of the Adriatic Sea aboard top-tier yachts provided by SkipperCity. Whether you’re a seasoned sailor or a beginner eager to learn the ropes, their expertly maintained fleet and knowledgeable crew ensure a safe and enjoyable voyage. Explore hidden coves, historic ports, and sun-soaked islands in a vessel that combines comfort and performance.

Ready to set sail on a Croatian adventure that combines the tradition of gaff rigged boats with modern luxury? Visit SkipperCity for an unforgettable maritime experience. Click below to watch their enticing sailing videos and to book your next sailing adventure!

Demystifying the Appeal of Gaff Rigged Boats: Why They’re Making a Comeback

Ahoy there, eager sailors and maritime enthusiasts! If you’ve been keeping an eye on the boating scene lately, it’s hard to ignore one noteworthy trend: the resurgent rise of gaff rigged boats. These majestic vessels, often regarded as relics of the past, are making quite the comeback in modern sailing circles. But what exactly is it about gaff rigged boats that has captivated sailors and yacht aficionados alike? Join us as we embark on a journey to demystify their appeal.

For those less familiar with nautical terms, allow us to elucidate one key component: the gaff rig. In contrast to its more common counterparts like Bermuda or Marconi rigs, the gaff rig features a unique triangular sail supported by two spars – the gaff and boom – which are parallel to each other. This classic design was prevalent during the Golden Age of Sail but eventually lost popularity due to advancements in technology. However, recently there has been a resurgence in interest, and here’s why:

1) Nostalgia Meets Tradition: There is an undeniable charm and allure surrounding gaff rigged boats that instantly transports us back to a bygone era when tall ships ruled the seas. The sight of these traditional vessels evokes romantic notions of exploration, adventure, and remarkable seamanship skills from centuries past. Sailing enthusiasts seeking a taste of history are naturally drawn towards gaff rigs for their rich heritage and tangible connection to maritime traditions.

2) Graceful Aesthetics: In a world increasingly dominated by sleek lines and minimalist designs, gaff rigged boats stand out with their graceful silhouettes and intricate sail arrangements. The towering mainmast combined with several smaller sails hanging gracefully from spars creates an elegant visual spectacle that truly sets them apart from modern yachts. Gazing upon these magnificent vessels evokes a sense of aesthetic appreciation reminiscent of an art gallery on water .

3) Versatility and Practicality: Contrary to popular belief, gaff rigged boats are not just beautiful relics; they also excel in certain sailing conditions. Their ability to handle heavy winds with exceptional downwind speed and incredible balance make them versatile across a wide range of weather conditions . Additionally, the relatively shorter mast height enables these boats to navigate under lower bridges and enter shallower waters, opening up possibilities for exploration in areas previously inaccessible to larger vessels.

4) Simplified Rigging: For those who find complexity intimidating or seek a more hands-on sailing experience, gaff rigging offers simplicity without compromising on excitement. Compared to modern rigs that require intricate adjustments and technical expertise, gaff rigged boats offer a refreshingly straightforward setup. This enables sailors of all skill levels to easily grasp the fundamentals of sail handling while providing ample room for experimentation and improvisation.

5) Sense of Community: The renewed interest in gaff rigs has spawned vibrant communities centered around these timeless vessels. Enthusiasts gather at regattas, festivals, and yacht clubs worldwide to celebrate their love for traditional sailboats. The camaraderie among like-minded individuals fosters connections built on shared passion, allowing sailors to forge lasting friendships beyond the confines of the open sea .

As we navigate through these compelling reasons behind the resurgence of gaff rigged boats, it becomes clear that their appeal transcends mere practical considerations. Rather than being limited solely by nostalgia or historic reverence, their beauty, versatility, simplicity, and community-building capabilities all contribute to their newfound popularity.

So whether you’re a seasoned sailor yearning for a taste of seafaring history or an adventurous novice seeking unique experiences upon the waves – hop aboard this resurgent wave and embrace all that gaff rigged boats have to offer! Set your course towards an extraordinary blend of tradition and innovation as you embark on an adventure that intertwines the legacy of the past with the thrill of modern exploration. The allure of gaff rigged boats awaits, ready to sweep you off your feet and into a fascinating world where old and new collide in perfect harmony.

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What's the Ideal Sailing Rig...? Kasten Marine Design, Inc. Copyright 2001 - 2020 Michael Kasten   Rig Choice Cat, Sloop; Cutter; Ketch; Schooner... these are the basic configurations. How shall we choose among them? The type of rig is often a pre-ordained choice once one has determined vessel size, the preferred layout, and the maximum size of sail one can handle. While this may seem somewhat heretical at first, there is no arguing the fact that no one wants a mast in the middle of their double berth...! Therefore, if a double berth right forward is a priority, it is likely to rule out the schooner rig on a vessel under around 50 feet. For that layout, we would instead tend toward the ketch or cutter rig. On a fairly small vessel though, we might make excellent use of the Cat rig. How shall we choose? It is always a benefit to windward performance to limit the number of sails. A cutter will perform better for example than a ketch or a schooner due to there being less windage in the rig, in other words less drag, and less turbulence introduced per sail area by the masts. Since lift is important for windward sailing, one might then ask which sails provide the most lift...? The answer to this depends on the sail rig, and on the relative proportion of total sail area given to each sail. Since headsails can be varied, their relative contribution to overall lift can be varied as well. It also tends to be that area for area a headsail will provide more lift than a sail mounted on a mast, mainly due to the turbulence caused by the mast. However that can be mitigated by the use of dual-skinned sails that create a true foil with one sail on each side of the mast, as is done on the Ljungstrom rig. Why would we consider a split rig then? In nearly all cases this choice boils down to the simple question, "What is the maximum size sail you are comfortable handling?" In answering this question honestly, we nearly always discover that on all but the smallest of boats, for general cruising we will probably be better off with a split rig, such as a ketch or schooner. This will serve to limit the size of the main sail for easier sail handling, and still allow a generous overall sail area. It will also give us the benefit of having a rig that is less tall, so better able to be supported. Rather than having a preference for any one rig type, I believe this question will best be answered during the course of developing a design. The rig should naturally be suited to the specific purpose for which the vessel is being developed. The following is intended to shed some light on these questions...   Racing or Voyaging...? We know that lift is important when sailing to windward, across the wind on a reach, and possibly as far off as a broad reach, but not so much when sailing directly off the wind. The farther off the wind you sail from 90 degrees, the less important is lift, and the more important is drag. Of additional importance is a vessel's handling and steering behavior. These factors result in two extremes... and a middle path...   RACING For racing, it is important to maximize lift and mimimize drag so that windward efficiency is achieved. Given that racing yachts must maximize lift, the aspect ratio of their sails and their keels are designed to be at the maximum that the boat can carry. The more time the boat will spend sailing to windward, the more important its windward performance becomes. Since most races are won / lost on the windward leg, maximizing aspect ratio, and therefore maximizing the amount of lift to drag, that wins the race. However, with many such boats fairly severe handling problems can arise due to the fact that a higher aspect rig exerts a greater turning moment on the vessel as it fills with wind. In other words, the taller mast provides a longer lever with which to turn the boat to windward. The keel does the same, i.e. a deeper keel provides a longer lever with which to resist and augment the windward-turning force of the sails. This tends to make the boat relatively stable to windward, with both forces in balance, but makes the vessel very unwieldy and hard to manage down wind. Along with the enhanced windward performance provided by high aspect sails comes rather poor off-wind performance, therefore the use of big spinnakers on racing boats in order to make up for the poor efficiency of the high aspect sails off the wind. This comes at an additional price in terms of steering stability. Moreover, spinnakers themselves are not so easy to handle, nor so well behaved. Often the boat itself is not optimum for off-wind sailing. For example, the usual wide, shoal body, fat-transom racing type with a deep fin keel and spade rudder will always be unstable downwind, especially when flying a spinnaker, requiring constant attention at the helm.   VOYAGING By contrast, since any long distance sailing adventure will be specifically planned to take advantage of following winds, or at the very least to make use of favorable winds, if a vessel’s design is to be optimized for sailing with the wind, the aspect ratio should be reduced. In fact, the best sail rig for off-wind voyaging is the square rig, with an aspect ratio of one. In combination with the low aspect sail rig, the keel should also be low aspect, i.e. long, spread out, and not too deep. This is for the sake of steering stability; to match the aspect ratio of the sails; and so the boat is not so easily tripped by its keel and rolled over in a beam sea. Although this combination is perfect for running in the trade winds for weeks on end, it can hardly be recommended for sailing well to windward...   MODERATION Naturally, no modern sailing vessel ALWAYS sails off the wind even if it will be primarily used for voyaging. Neither extreme is appropriate, therefore a compromise is needed. If a boat is to be optimized for all-around sailing, including voyaging , it makes no sense whatever to provide the kind of high aspect rig optimized to win a round-the-buoys race. Nor does it make any sense to do the opposite, i.e. provide a square rig and long shoal keel. The best is somewhere in-between, i.e. with an aspect ratio for the sails on the order of that recommended below. In order to match the aspect ratio of the sail rig, the keel should also be something in-between, thus a cut-away forefoot and reduced wetted area, without becoming too deep, nor too long and shallow. This moderate configuration will provide good efficiency all around, the sails will be less tall and easier to handle, and the hull will be better able to provide the all-important course keeping ability desired for ocean crossings.   What About Windward Performance? To reiterate the above, if the keel is very long and shoal, and the rig is similarly low and spread out with gaffs and bowsprits and multiple masts ( say like a mid-1800's US coastal fishing schooner) then provided there is adequate sail area, performance will usually be excellent when reaching or running, but less than optimum to windward. At the opposite extreme (disregarding hull form for now) is a deep high-aspect fin keel, with a tall high-aspect Marconi sloop rig. This type of vessel will ordinarily perform very well to windward, but will be quite inferior on other points of sailing, requiring spinnakers and a sizable inventory of reaching and running sails. As noted above, these are two extremes. Given all that we have learned about windward sailing since the days of old, there is no reason to suffer poor windward performance on any vessel, nor poor off-wind performance necessitating a large sail inventory (read expense and hassle) often accompanied by poor down-wind handling. There is a wide middle ground...! Examples among my designs that have maximized voyaging ability, but still have reasonably good windward ability, are Redpath , and Zephyr , both excellent for voyaging. If one were to take the keel design on those vessels just a few notches farther toward reducing wetted surface, but still good for voyaging, you have a keel configuration like that on Jasmine , with separate keel and combination skeg / rudder. In each of these designs, a modern NACA foil keel and modest aspect rig has been provided for the sake of all around sailing both on and off the wind, and good steering stability. If one were to take this a few steps farther in the direction of windward performance, a configuration like that shown for my prototype design called Sonja makes good sense, in this case having a NACA foil bulb keel and a NACA foil spade rudder. It is worth mentioning that Sonja is not yet a completed design, and when finalized might have a slightly deeper keel, although possibly not. The reason to be equivocal on this point is because the bulb on the keel bottom acts as an “end-plate” effectively doubling the aspect ratio of the keel without having to make it deeper... If it is desired to not have a bowsprit, then in order to achieve adequate sail area the rig must simply become taller yet, and the keel deeper.   Quantifying Performance The type of rig one chooses will certainly have an effect on performance, as will the amount of sail area. For maximum performance, there is much benefit to be had with a good hull and keel design, and with well proportioned and well cut sails. We tend to observe many older vessel types which may have neither optimum hull design nor well proportioned sails, and then pass judgment on the type without considering those mitigating factors. Instead, we should look at the components of good cruising performance, and optimize the hull and sails to suit those highly specialized requirements. Aspect Ratio is defined as the height of the sail squared, divided by the area of the sail. A perfectly square sail would have an A/R of 1. A 450 sq. ft. triangular sail with an A/R of 6 would have a 52' luff and a 17' boom. They are both extremes. It is well known that higher aspect sails produce greater lift when close hauled. It not so widely known however that high aspect sails stall much more readily as the angle of attack widens. As A/R gets higher, sails get less and less efficient at pulling when anywhere but close hauled. For racing, where windward performance is of prime importance, it has been shown that an aspect ratio greater than 6 is of little use on monohull racing craft. An appropriate range for optimum windward sailing will be an A/R of from 4 to 6. A polar diagram showing lift vs. drag plotted for sails having the same area but differing aspect ratios very graphically shows that the favored lift / drag position is quickly handed off to shorter and shorter rigs as a sail is eased. If you would like see this data graphically presented, please have a look at the Aero-hydrodynamics of Sailing by Marchaj, p. 444, Fig. 2.138, also shown below... A study of this data shows that the most favorable aspect ratios for ocean cruising, where all-around performance is the goal, an aspect ratio from 2.5 to 3.5 is very appropriate , with an approximate upper limit of around A/R 4. Naturally, these are not "hard" boundaries, only guidelines. In most cases, a compromise is struck in consideration of the times inevitably spent sailing to windward and according to owner preference. In the data presented by Marchaj in the above graph, the angle of incidence of the sail is plotted against lift vs drag. A sail having an A/R of 6 performs exceedingly well at an angle of attack to the apparent wind of 10 degrees, where lift divided by drag (L/D) yields a ratio of around 8.5. At 10 degrees, a sail with A/R 3 has an L/D ratio of 6.5. At 15 degrees, the A/R 6 sail has an L/D ratio of 4.47, and the A/R 3 sail has an L/D ratio of 4.5. At 20 degrees, the A/R 6 sail has an L/D ratio of 2.7, while the A/R 3 sail has an L/D ratio of 3.3, and so forth. By the time an angle of attack of 30 degrees is reached, the favored position is handed off to a sail with an A/R of 1...! Note that A/R as used here refers to the A/R of each individual sail. If the A/R of each sail is, say 3, when adding the sails together the overall height of the rig would not increase, but the overall base dimension WOULD increase, therefore the A/R of the whole rig would be less. The optimum A/R discussed above - and as measured, discussed, and graphed by Marchaj as above - is that of each individual sail. The salient point is that extremely high aspect sails are not "bad" sails, they are just not optimum for general ocean cruising where it is rare to be sailing dead to windward. When required to do so, sails with an A/R of from 3 to 4 will perform quite well, in particular when eased off a few degrees. The benefits of lower aspect sails become much more evident when performing the engineering stunts required to keep an A/R 6 sail's mast from collapsing..! The simpler rigging made possible by lower aspect sails will be its own reward in terms of ease of construction, less rig stress, easier maintenance, and greater rig longevity.  Reduced maintenance and greater longevity... the holy grail for cruisers...!  Whether using a Bermuda rig, a "Marconi" rig, or a Gaff rig, the above factors encourage keeping aspect ratio of the individual sails under around 3.5 to 4 for an ocean cruising vessel. To see an example of this type of modest Bermuda rig, please check out my Fantom design - a perfect all-around cruising vessel. Rig choice is mainly a matter of assessing one's priorities. If those priorities tend toward racing, then the choices will be quite different than the choices made by a cruising sailor.   Keel Profile If the rig is tall and the keel deep, the lever arm will be relatively longer from the center of lateral resistance to the center of effort of the sails, therefore the amount of horizontal lead of the CE forward of the CLR must be proportionately greater to compensate. If on the other hand, the rig is kept fairly low, there will be less draft, and the ideal amount of lead will be much less, even though sail area and stiffness are not reduced. For the best steering and course keeping behavior, and for the greatest overall structural strength, a long full keel offers the most benefit to the long distance cruising sailor. This type of long and relatively shoal draft keel is ideally suited to the lower aspect sail rigs, say up to an aspect ratio of around 3.5. An example is my design Redpath , having relatively shoal draft and generous sail area, yet good sail carrying ability (stiffness). Other examples with similar A/R and keel configuration are Benrogin , Lucille 42 , Lucille 50 , Grace , Zephyr , and Shiraz designs. For the ketch Shiraz , the rig height was limited to 60' off the water for convenience while traveling the ICW along the East Coast, and the draft was limited to 5' - 6" for sailing in the Bahamas. Since Shiraz is an aluminum vessel, there is actually greater sail carrying ability than necessary, so we have the option to give her more sail area, or we may on the other hand choose to keep the rig as-is and assume there will be an extra margin of safety when flying a mule or a spinnaker. Taking the Shiraz a bit further in the direction of windward performance, we might increase the aspect ratio of the mains'l and mizzen, and deepen the keel. At that point, it might be desirable to consider splitting the keel into a deeper portion to contain the ballast, then a shallow portion to contain the shaft alley, then another deeper portion to act as a skeg for the rudder. This would allow a very efficient foil shaped "cruising fin" type of keel, and a similarly efficient combination skeg / rudder combination, while also limiting wetted surface. When the aspect ratio of the sails becomes greater than around 3.5, this kind of long "cruising fin" and skeg hung rudder will usually be preferred. Primarily this choice will be made in order to deepen the keel (and the ballast) but to avoid extra wetted surface. For quick maneuvering, this kind of keel will always be a bit more responsive. The "cruising fin" keel, having a higher aspect ratio and therefore greater lift vs. drag, will naturally have better windward performance than a long and relatively shoal full keel. If not carried to extremes, this will not materially degrade course keeping ability nor the strength of the keel and rudder. Of course when the rig becomes very tall, the keel will become still deeper. Windward performance will be improved, but performance on other points of sail will be degraded, as will course keeping ability. Taken to its logical extreme with deep fin keel and spade rudder, when running in a sea of any size attention to the helm will be critical. This is especially so with fast high aspect sea-going sleds having very fine entries and broad flat sections aft, where lack of attention to the helm may result in an instant broach. While there is no question that this is exhilarating sailing, it can hardly be recommended for safe family cruising... For long passages with the helm unattended, a long and relatively shoal full keel will always be more steady than any other type. For long distance cruising, a longer keel will "track" somewhat more like it is on rails. In harbor, maneuvering turns will have a larger radius. The tactic in that situation is to use a bit of reverse gear to take headway off the boat, then give it a burst in forward gear with the helm over, then another burst in reverse, etc. With that, any full keel boat can be pivoted in her own length. Rather than there being any right or wrong choice, the type of keel profile is a matter of preference, usually based on the type of sailing that is planned. During the design process, once the preferred keel configuration and rig type are chosen, it is simply a matter of balancing them against each other in order to obtain the required lead for the sail area vs the lateral area, and to place the ballast where required for proper trim. Regardless of whether a design is given a long full keel or a "cruising fin" keel, it will benefit performance both on and off the wind to make use of an efficient NACA foil shape. The particular choice of foil type will depend on the keel profile in order to maximize lift, and minimize drag.   What About Winged Keels...? Should the cruising sailor consider a winged keel...? An excellent question. The wing keel concept is not brand new. It has come to us as an evolution of various approaches from the past. For long full-keel applications, the idea was promoted by Henry Scheel from the 1960's onward. It became known as the " Scheel Keel " which has the form of a modified "bulb" along the base of the keel. The particular configuration is to widen the base of the keel via a broadly curved keel bottom (athwartships), with a concave return to the body of the keel above. This creates both a large envelope for the ballast down low, without having to increase draft, and also provides an "end plate" to reduce the induced drag from eddy making at the base of the keel foil, effectively increasing the A/R of the keel without having to make it deeper... Among racers, this concept is transformed into a blade with a distinct "bulb" at the base containing the ballast. This serves the same function as the Scheel type of arrangement, i.e. to lower the ballast and to reduce eddy making at the tip of the keel. A few bulb keel examples can be seen on the 96' schooner Zebulun and the 50' ketch Sonja . The further evolution of the simple bulb is a "bulb with wings." Quite a few combinations have been developed, including several that are aimed more at the cruiser / racer types. In moulded fiberglass or cast lead, nearly any shape can be achieved. In metal construction however, one of the basic challenges in order to keep building costs within bounds is to make use of shapes that are both easily fabricated, and that are also efficient in use. For a cruising boat, an additional priority is to create a structure that is sufficiently robust to withstand serious abuse. In metal construction, for the greatest economy of labor during fabrication (i.e. the most bang for the buck) the most reasonable approach is to make use of simple and distinct shapes, rather than "blended" surfaces as would be more typical with fiberglass construction. For metal construction therefore, if a bulb is planned, it will ideally be a distinctly formed shape, attached to another distinctly formed shape, the keel foil. If wings are provided on the ballast bulb, they will also ideally be distinct "appendages" having a long low aspect shape. If a Scheel type of keel bottom is planned, then for ease of construction it will ideally make use of large diameter heavy wall tubing for the bottom shape, and sections of similar tubing for the concave "return" to the keel foil. The cruising sailor empirically observes, " What sticks out, breaks off ." To address that observation, appendages to the hull are approached with an extreme conservatism... With a winged keel, we have added an appendage to an appendage...! I believe an approach such as that taken by Scheel, or possibly a bulb or modest bulb / wing arrangement, will have the greatest merit for the long distance cruiser. The primary requirement is that the boat be able to take the ground and heel right over on the hard without any chance of structural damage, for which the plain keel, the Scheel arrangement or the bulb keel are ideally suited.   Is the Gaff Rig Suited to Modern Cruising...? If windward sailing is of paramount importance then of course the Bermuda rig has much to recommend it. For modern day cruising the gaff rig is often maligned. In my view, for blue water voyaging the gaff rig has much to offer. If a vessel's keel is shaped efficiently and if the sails are cut for maximum efficiency on the wind and if the sail plan has been designed well, a gaff rigged boat will perform incredibly well, in many cases besting the performance of a high aspect ratio Marconi rigged boat. This is especially so if one is sailing on any course other than a hard beat to windward. A gaff rig provides the chance to set more sail area on a given length of mast. For a given sail area the mast can be quite a bit shorter, so the mast will be that much stronger and will require less complex rigging to keep it in place. The stiffness of a column is inversely proportional to the square of its length. A mast that is twice as long will fail with only one fourth the load, therefore must be four times stronger. One strategy is to use a heavier mast section. The more typical approach is to divide the mast into several "panels" by the use of spreaders. This is the "Marconi" rig. It introduces more stress, more places for failure, more cost, more maintenance, etc. For racing, this is of course justified. For general cruising however, we can make a good case for keeping things simple and strong. If set up simply, a traditional rig will be friendly and easy to use. For example, one will be handling soft lines rather than harsh stainless wire and winches. If the sails are laced, we will have eliminated sail track and other hardware, along with its relatively much greater expense. This is not to say that one should be old fashioned... far from it! For example, nearly all the masts I specify are welded aluminum tube or pipe. These are perfect for the gaff rig as well as for the low aspect Bermuda rig. Compared strictly on a strength to weight to cost basis, aluminum pipe spars are impossible to improve upon. As further example, among the gaff rigs that I have drawn, one will observe that I prefer short gaffs without tops'ls. Primarily, this is for reasons of simplicity, efficiency, and ease of use. The penalty in excess rigging required for gaff tops'ls is more than I'm usually willing to fool with while sailing. In my experience, due to that added complexity, gaff tops'ls often just sit in their bags unused. In exchange for the added complexity of rigging, gaff tops'ls ordinarily provide little gain in terms of usable sail area.   Notes on the Short-Gaff Rig My short-gaff sail plans are meant to address the shortcomings of the traditional types of gaff rig sail plan when used on smaller craft (say under around 60 feet). By using a short gaff with no tops'l, there is more luff length to the sail. With a longer luff on the lowers, the lower sails are able to perform much better when on the wind. As an added bonus, sails are not broken into such small units, so are able to be more efficient on all points of sail. As a further bonus, the short gaff arrangement permits a single halyard to be used with a fixed bridle (not a sliding bridle). With a short gaff there is no need for a separate throat halyard. The bridle legs are balanced during sailing trials, then permanently made fast at the best spot. Luff tension is thereafter adjusted at the gooseneck. As a bonus, the fixed bridle always keeps the gaff in the same attitude while raising and lowering. This works so well that all of the gaff rigs that I’ve specified for yachts under 60 feet on deck have a single halyard for the gaff. While it is possible to do this with a longer gaff, it works best with a short gaff. Certainly larger vessels can use the short gaff and single halyard, provided sails are not too large. As sails become too large to man-handle, a winch can be used for raising sail. Even on much larger sails the short gaff offers the benefit of greatly reduced weight aloft, and an easier job of raising sail. The short gaff - long luff sail is not my invention by any means... In fact, in its ideal form the short-gaff-sail is fairly close in profile to the shape of the fully battened elliptical plan form racing sails of today. The short-gaff rig was developed and was well proven on vessels such as the Dutch sloops, Bermuda sloops, and of course the pilot schooners that sailed out of Baltimore during the 1800's and early 1900's. The pilot schooners needed a foolproof rig that had superior performance, and that could be handled by a man and a boy. They were large vessels...! Applying the same strategy to smaller sailing vessels one can easily single hand a 50 footer. As far as their sailing properties, the improvement in windward performance is well documented among those vessels, and by my own experience having sailed with this arrangement on my own schooner Emerald . The benefits are to simplify the rig, to reduce windage, to reduce the work of raising and lowering sail, to increase luff length for better windward sailing, to reduce weight aloft, and to eliminate those pesky tops’ls. That said, on a schooner I do like to use a fisherman tops’l beetween the masts since it provides enough area to be worthwhile and is easy to set and strike. By comparison, gaff tops’ls are often more trouble than they are worth - another point strongly favoring the "bald headed" gaff rig.   What About the Schooner Rig? The schooner is able to spread more sail per length of spars than any other rig. This allows a generous sail area, while the center of effort is kept low down. On a schooner of any size I like to arrange for both main and fore sails to be similarly sized. This is done to prevent the mains'l from becoming too big to handle. To determine the size of each sail, one should try to make use of sails as large as can be confidently handled, and no larger. Much of what is written about schooners and gaff rigs assumes that one will be using a traditional sail plan with long gaffs, two halyards for each gaff, main and fore tops'ls, fisherman tops'l, stays'l, jib, jib tops'l, etc. Added together even on a small schooner, that represents some twenty halyards and other control lines. As an example of how one might simplify that configuration, Lucille and her sisters, Redpath and Benrogin have only four halyards for the lowers, and two for the fisherman tops'l. The total: six halyards... ! Simple is beautiful...   Redpath as Example We had the opportunity to sail two 34' schooners having exactly the same hull form and sail area against each other. One vessel had a "traditional" gaff schooner rig, with long gaffs, gaff tops'ls, stays'l and flying jib. The other vessel had a short-gaff rig of my design with exactly the same sail area. One feature of the rig I tend to prefer (as with designs like Redpath) is that the working sails are sized to be as nearly alike in area as possible, so there is no single dominant sail. All of these improvements served to simplify and lighten the rig and provided far less windage. The result...? Although both vessels performed more or less equally on a down wind course, we out sailed the "traditional" rig hands down both reaching and beating. With the short-gaff rig as I modified it, as compared the other vessel of the same hull design (but having a traditional long-gaff rig and gaff tops'ls) we could better their windward performance by around 5 degrees. What I had done is to eliminate the tops'ls and raise the throat of the gaffs up farther, like on Redpath and Lucille. The combination of better windward performance with a simpler, but still classic rig... it is a big success! Another bonus is that the simper short-gaff rig was far easier to build, to handle and to maintain. I liked it so much that I made an identical rig for my own schooner, Emerald . I attribute the improved windward performance to the following factors: Fewer sails, therefore more lift per amount of drag (reach, run or close hauled). Longer luff length on fore and main. Less running rigging and clutter (less than half the number of halyards) so considerably less windage. Flatter cut to the sails in order to maximize windward sailing. Hollow cut to the jib luff to allow for wire sag, so the sail still has good foil shape to windward. Redpath was yet another refinement of the concept, having been designed to take best advantage of the optimum rig right from the beginning. A further refinement on Redpath has been the use of a NACA foil keel. The combination of the improved keel with the taller and more efficient short-gaff rig will provide some 7 to 10 degrees closer sailing tack to tack (the "real" measure of performance) than does a more traditional schooner type having tops'ls, multiple jibs, a nest of extra halyards, and a long straight shoal draft keel. The improvement to windward has been accomplished without sacrificing reaching or running performance, and at the same time whilst improving the vessel's tracking ability on all courses. Redpath is relatively light in terms of displacement to length, and has a high sail area to displacement ratio in her working sails. This not only makes the boat fast, but also makes the rig ultimately easier to deal with, since there are no light weather spinnakers and so forth to fool with. For light weather sailing, the Fisherman Tops'l is kept very well controlled between the two masts, having a line at each corner. If one could say there is any single factor responsible for providing excellent performance on Redpath, it would have to be attributed to the amount of sail area provided. The sail area given to Redpath is able to be generous because it is located relatively low down, rather than on one single tall stick. A Marconi type of rig will ordinarily require a deeper keel for adequate sail carrying ability. One cannot make reasonable comparisons of course to vessels having a fin keel, spade or skeg hung rudder, and sloop rig, as those types will always have superior windward performance. What those keel and rig types give up in terms of off-wind sailing is considerable... Steering stability off-wind is compromised, as is safety in taking the ground, as is the ability to heave to gracefully, etc. The main thing is simply to define the type of sailing one wishes to do. If it is "round the buoy" racing, then shoal draft and low aspect rigs will not be competitive and thus they will be very unsuitable. Nor are they intended to be suited to that type of sailing... It is the windward leg after all that inevitably wins a round the buoys race. For offshore voyaging, relatively more shoal draft and lower aspect rigs will ordinarily make the most sense. Redpath, for example, is designed for fast sailing. On any course from a close reach to a dead run, using only her working sail (not allowing the Fisherman, spinnakers, or any other light weather sails), Redpath simply will walk away from the majority of equally sized Marconi rigged boats. For offshore voyaging one would be hard pressed to do better... Particularly if ruggedness, ease of handling, economy and ease of maintenance are of any import.   The Schooner Lucille Image, Copyright 1999   Other Useful Cruising Sails For Schooners: The Fisherman Tops'l On a schooner, the fisherman tops'l is an excellent tool, is easy to use, and provides plenty of area, so is well worth it. The fisherman tops'l is a thing of beauty and highly functional, without a lot of complicated rigging. It's like having overdrive... It's up where it can catch the breeze and it has a meaningful size, so that the reward for setting the fisherman is substantial. Of course, a Fisherman tops'l is not absolutely required, but it is almost silly to do without one on a schooner, given the outstanding opportunity between the masts to spread a large amount of sail without much fuss or bother.   For all Sailing Vessels: The Stays'l or "Mule" One might be tempted toward even greater simplicity, eliminating the staysail and outer jib in favor of a single jumbo jib. We can quickly see however that a staysail and jib combination are a bit better suited to offshore sailing, as follows: The most obvious advantage of the stays'l, whether it is on a schooner, ketch or cutter, is to make the individual headsails smaller and easier to handle. A much less apparent advantage is that the stays'l also provides for easy self-steering. A "steering sheet" led from the stays'l boom, aft along the windward side, and then to a tiller will give reliable and easy self steering. It's hard to believe, but this really does work...!! The gaff rig being somewhat lower aspect, lends good self steering to the boat particularly when sailing long passages off the wind. Naturally this statement must be qualified by presuming that the rig is of good design, and that a good hull form for self steering has been provided. You can see example vessels of this type by clicking on the links to the schooners, Lucille and Redpath , and the very fine ketches Grace and Shiraz .   For Nearly any Hull Type: The Junk Rig... Along with the Gaff Rig, the Chinese Junk Rig has much to offer in terms of simplicity, ease of use, and also in terms of safety, in particular for the long range voyager. For more information, please have a look at my web page on the Chinese Junk Rig .   Choices... Overall, subtleties abound in copious amplitude...! One cannot say one thing absolutely... there exist many shades of grey. A given boat design is neither good nor bad, but instead simply optimized for a given purpose. This includes the full spectrum from the all-out racing machine, to the square rigged clipper. These choices are just a matter of degree; of one's intended sailing; and ultimately of one's preference. One type is not inherently "wrong" or the other inherently "right" but instead are just differing expressions of one's preferred style. Therefore... there really is no argument with regard to keel and rig choices. In the end, the these various design factors are simply a matter of the owner's preferences being expressed in the type of vessel being created. In other words, once you know what you want to do with a boat, i.e. its function , only then do you have a framework within which to create and / or judge its form .   Image Copyright 1999   Other Resources... For further reading on self steering, please see the excellent book, "Self Steering for Sailing Craft, " by Dr. John Letcher. For further reading on the gaff rig, please have a look at " Hand, Reef and Steer ," by Tom Cunliffe.  

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Trailerable Sailboats Comparison

Trailerable sailboats come in a variety of shapes and sizes. These vessels can be used for everything from racing to offshore cruising.

In this article, we'll compare six of the most common trailerable sailboat types along with their uses. Additionally, we'll cover vessel design elements that distinguish different types of trailerable sailboats.

The most common types of trailerable sailboats include dinghies, racers, open-top cruising sailboats, pocket cruisers, coastal cruisers, and compact offshore sailboats. These vessels differ by size, rig type, hull type, and weight.

The information contained in this article was sourced from sailing guides and vessel identification records. Additionally, we took into consideration the opinions of sailors with experience on a variety of trailerable sailboats.

Table of contents

Defining Trailerable Sailboats

What distinguishes a trailerable sailboat from any other small cruising craft? The first and most obvious consideration is size. A trailerable sailboat has to meet the dimensional requirements set forth by the Department of Transportation. In other words, it must fit on a trailer that's small enough to travel on the road.

An additional consideration is weight. A trailerable sailboat should weigh less than around 7,000 pounds, as this is the upper towing limit for most typical Class C vehicles. Most trailerable sailboats can be towed behind a typical half ton pickup or SUV.

Additionally, most trailerable sailboats have a swing keel or centerboard. This makes it possible to rest a boat on a low trailer. Most displacement keels are simply too tall, though there are a few exceptions. The maximum trailer load height in most states is 14 ft, which a trailerable sailboat should clear without trouble.

Length is a consideration, though it's not as important as width. The maximum beam of a trailerable sailboat is 8 ft 6 in, as this is the limit for standard trailers on American highways. Typically, trailerable sailboats don't exceed 30 feet in length, as the length to beam ratio of a longer boat would lead to poor handling characteristics.

The final consideration is rigging. Due to height requirements, trailerable sailboats must have collapsible masts. Additionally, rudders and other items that extend beyond the hull must fold or stow in some manner.

Types of Trailerable Sailboats

Trailerable sailboats come in many varieties, weights, in sizes. These vessels are designed for specific uses, such as racing, cruising, fishing, or training. Here are the most common kinds of trailerable sailboats, along with what they're used for.

1. Dinghies

Dinghies are small, open sailing craft that usually don't exceed 15 feet in length. Dinghies are designed for use in protected waters. They're sometimes used to shuttle between an anchored sailboat and the shore. Dinghies are popular racing vessels, and many sailing schools use them for sailing instruction.

Popular Trailerable Dinghies:

• Optimist “Optie” (7 ft 9 in LOA)
• Minto (9 ft LOA)
• Wayfarer (16 ft)

Trailerable racing sailboats are long and narrow. They're designed for speed and agility, not comfort or offshore cruising. These boats generally have a low profile, and they're often open-top and lack sleeping accommodations.

Racing sailboats are lightweight and easy to tow. That said, trailerable racing sailboats are designed for experienced sailors as they're easier to capsize in high winds. These vessels range in size from 15 feet to over 25 feet.

Popular Trailerable Racing Sailboats:

• National 12 (12 ft)
• Sunfish (13 ft 9 in)
• Merlin Rocket (14 ft)

3. Open-Top Cruisers

Open-top cruising sailboats lack a cabin. However, these seaworthy craft are more than capable of coastal cruising in a variety of conditions. Many of these vessels are based on proven workboat designs that date back over a century. These vessels are ideal for harbor sailing and cruising on lakes.

Some people use open-top cruising sailboats for camping, as these traditional vessels are long enough to lay down a cot or sleeping bag. They make a great starter sailboat, as they're safe and easy to store in the garage or driveway.

Popular Trailerable Open-Top Cruisers

• Norseboat (17 ft 6 in)
• Bay Rider (20 ft)
• Com-Pac Legacy (23)

4. Pocket Cruisers

Pocket cruisers are similar to coastal cruisers, though they're distinguishable by their size and amenities. Generally speaking, a pocket cruiser is a small sailboat (under 25 feet in length) that features a cabin, galley, self-draining cockpit, and other 'big boat' accommodations.

Pocket cruisers usually aren't designed for serious offshore cruising, but they are comfortable for extended coastal or inland voyages. They weigh more than racing vessels, as stability is a key aspect of their design. Pocket cruisers are popular because they offer impressive capabilities in a small package.

Popular Trailerable Pocket Cruisers

• Sandpiper (15 ft)
• Sanderling (18 ft)
• West Wight Potter (19 ft)

5. Coastal Cruisers

Coastal cruisers are some of the most popular trailerable sailboats on the market. These vessels usually feature a cabin with a V-berth and a sink, though they occasionally include a head and a complete galley. Coastal cruisers are seaworthy enough for most near-shore and inland weather conditions.

Some adventurous sailors have taken coastal cruisers on extended bluewater voyages, though it's not particularly common. The size and sailing characteristics of these vessels is often not their greatest limiting factor.

There's only so many provisions you can store aboard a 22 to 25-foot sailboat, which is why coastal cruisers are generally considered impractical for offshore voyaging. Coastal cruisers handle well, and they're easy to sail, which is why this type of trailerable sailboat is popular in bays and harbors across the country.

Popular Trailerable Coastal Cruisers

• Cal 20 (20 ft)
• Catalina 22 (22 ft)
• Hunter 22 (22 ft)

6. Compact Offshore Sailboats

Compact offshore sailboats are the rarest and most capable type of trailerable sailboat. These vessels are a big boat in a compressed package. They typically feature a long displacement keel, a wide beam, and a cramped but feature-filled cabin.

These vessels are true cruising boats inside and out. The cabins usually feature a full galley, standing headroom, ahead with a shower, a V-berth upfront, and provisions for navigation. Their rigging is strong enough to handle offshore weather conditions.

Compact offshore sailboats usually have the greatest displacement, as their deep draft and wide beam keep them stable in rolling seas. This also contributes to greater dry weight, which is why they can't be towed by small vehicles.

Vessels of this type are technically trailerable, as they meet the dimensional requirements to travel on the highway. That's said, moving one of these boats is difficult. Owners generally keep these vessels in the water or in dry storage most of the year to avoid the hazard and hassle of towing such a hefty boat.

Popular Compact Offshore Cruisers

• Flicka 20 (20 ft)
• Dana 24 (24 ft)
• Nor'Sea 27 (27 ft)

The keel of a sailboat keeps it stable and tracking a straight course. Most trailerable sailboats have retractable keels of some variety, though some have fixed (permanently lowered) keels. Here are the most common types of trailerable sailboat keels in order of their popularity.

1. Centerboard

A centerboard is a form of retractable keel that's common on the smallest types of trailerable sailboats. A centerboard is essentially a long, thin blade that descends through a hole in the bottom of the boat.

Half of the centerboard remains inside the boat in a box called the 'centerboard trunk.' Centerboards are simple and easy to use, but the centerboard trunk takes up useful space in the cockpit or cabin.

2. Swing Keel

The swing keel is a type of retractable keel that eliminates the inconvenient centerboard trunk. A swing keel is a centerboard with a hinge on one end. It lives in a trunk, typically below the base of the hull, and swings down when in use.

Swing keels allow the sailboat to ride low on a trailer, which makes them a popular choice for pocket cruisers and trailer-sailers. Swing keels raise and lower using a  block and tackle system or a crank, usually located near the bilge or under a seat.

3. Fin Keel

Fin keels are less common on trailerable sailboats than they are on larger cruising boats. This type of keel is fixed to the bottom of the hull. A fin keel blade extends between 12 inches and 3 feet below the hull, and it occasionally includes a hydrodynamic bulb on the end. Fin keels are most often found on racing boats.

4. Semi-Displacement

Semi-displacement keels are long, fixed keels that run along the aft 2/3 of the hull. This type of keel is designed for cruising boats that value speed but still want to retain the stability and seaworthiness of a full keel.

Some trailerable sailboats have semi-displacement keels, especially if they're designed for offshore use. The benefits of a semi-displacement keel over a full keel are negligible on a trailer, as both types have a deep draft and high ride height.

5. Displacement (Full Keel)

Displacement keels are traditional and highly seaworthy. This type of keel runs across the entire length of the hull, usually reaching its deepest point at the stern. Displacement keels are found on vessels that are designed for offshore use.

Displacement keels are uncommon on trailerable sailboats, as they're long and cause the vessel to ride high on a trailer. Additionally, the type of vessel that uses a displacement keel is often wide and heavy, which isn't ideal for trailering.

Collapsable rigging is a hallmark of trailerable sailboats. The best trailerable sailboats have collapsible masts that stow securely across the deck. These vessels typically have a fork-shaped mast boot that acts as a hinge, allowing sailors to easily lower and secure the mast.

Many trailerable sailboats are gaff rigged. Though the traditional gaff rig is more complex than a modern Bermuda rigs, it uses a shorter and stronger mast. This has obvious benefits for trailerable boats, as the mast and spars store more easily.

Trailer Types

There are multiple types of trailers used to tow and store sailboats. The most common kind of sailboat trailer is the single-axle trailer. These trailers have one wheel on each side, and you can tow them with a standard Class IV trailer hitch.

Larger sailboats, such as heavy offshore cruising vessels, require something a bit sturdier. These vessels typically ride on dual-axle trailers, which have two wheels on each side.

Larger trailers, such as those with two axles, connect to a standard trailer hitch or to a fifth wheel hitch, which is mounted in the bed of a truck. Fifth-wheel trailers are the least common type of sailboat trailer.

Sailboat Weight and Towing

Dry weight is an important factor to consider when comparing trailerable sailboats. It's important to avoid confusing displacement and weight, even though both values use the same units.

Displacement is the weight of the water displaced by the vessel, whereas dry weight determines how much the boat weighs with its tanks empty and bilge dry. The ideal towing weight of a typical trailerable sailboat is between 3,000 and 5,000 pounds. This weight is within the towing capabilities of most trucks and full-size SUVs.

Larger trailerable vessels, such as many coastal cruisers and offshore trailer-sailers, can weigh 7,500 pounds or more. A sailboat of this magnitude requires a heavy-duty towing vehicle, such as a 1-ton diesel pickup truck.

Best Trailerable Sailboat for Cruising

For protected cruising, such as in a bay or after the river, it's hard to overlook the Catalina 22. This iconic fiberglass sailboat is known for easy handling and fun sailing characteristics. It has a comfortable cabin with plenty of room for a weekend on the water.

For more extensive cruising, especially offshore, the best trailerable sailboat is the Nor'Sea 27. This vessel is ideal due to its spacious interior and full accommodations. It has a full keel for stability, along with a head, galley, and sleeping arrangements down below.

Best Trailerable Sailboat for Weekend Sailing

The ideal weekend cruiser should be easy to tow in fast to rig, as larger and more complex vessels take too much time and effort the launch. With this in mind, it's a tie between the Wayfarer dinghy and the West Wight Potter. Both of these vessels are well-designed, fast to launch, and fun to sail.

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Daniel Wade

I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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