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Installing a life raft on the coach roof

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A life raft is a must for any voyager planning to go offshore. While many people invest great effort into choosing the right raft, weighing up considerations such as performance and budget, fewer think ahead to the actual installation. Whether you are buying your first life raft or upgrading to a new one, make sure that proper installation is as high a priority as choice of equipment. With some helpful pointers from our boatyard, we were able to install a new life raft ourselves and now have the peace of mind of a job well done. It is a project of about two days that can be managed with basic tools and know-how.

The small boat conundrum The ideal place to mount a life raft is on the stern rail, which has the advantage of easy deployment and good attachment points for the painter. However, many smaller monohulls simply lack stern space, especially once a self-steering device and swim ladder have been mounted. The only feasible option on many boats is a horizontally-mounted cradle placed just forward of the dodger. There, the crew still has access to the life raft and the painter can be secured on a deck cleat. The main challenge would be heaving the raft across the lifelines, but given the raised center section of the deck, this should not be a major hurdle.

Practicing life raft entry

Any sailor contemplating a bluewater passage should look for the opportunity to actually deploy and enter a life raft. A number of sailing schools offer half-day or weekend safety courses that do exactly this. In our case, we had a used life raft that was impossible to sell, so we could use it for our own simulation. We were careful to notify the marina staff in our location and to use a discrete area lest any passers-by become alarmed. Although a simulation in quiet, in-shore waters is not ideal, it did provide a calm run-through that did not frighten our young son.

What did we learn? To begin with, it took a surprising number of hard jerks on the deployment line to fire the CO2 cylinder and inflate the raft. On the other hand, righting and entering the life raft was relatively straightforward. The strongest crewmember should enter first to help the others in. The boarding ladder can swing awkwardly under the raft as weight is put on it, but the hand-ladder inside the raft gave us the extra grip needed to climb in. We discovered that the raft lurches as each person enters, and were careful to distribute our weight for balance.

The next step‚ — separating from a potentially sinking vessel‚ — proved awkward. For starters, the knife provided in the raft for this purpose was so firmly affixed that it was difficult to free. The painter was difficult to access from the main entry since it attached at the opposite end of the life raft (the idea being to keep the main entry away from breaking seas). We learned that the painter should be accessed through the smaller lookout hatch on the windward side of the raft. Details like these are important and vary between different manufacturers, so it is important to go through your owner's manual carefully.

Finally, we familiarized ourselves with drogue deployment and the survival pack contents. It is possible to have extra equipment (such as a handheld watermaker) packed into the raft on request. Every captain should also prepare a grab bag with further equipment. The first thing to reach for, however, is your EPIRB, which should be tied outside the life raft to transmit your position. Hopefully, you will never have to resort to such measures, but it pays to be prepared.

However, there are a few challenges in installing a life raft in this location. One is that the coach roof is typically a relatively soft section of sandwiched deck. It is not constructed to absorb significant loads, such as a wave sweeping over the deck and pulling at the life raft. A second problem is that most coach roofs have a slightly convex curvature that will not be flush with a straight cradle. Finally, there is the issue of achieving a neat installation without marring the interior cabin ceiling with through-bolts. The approach we used in installing our life raft resolved each of these problems, as described in the steps below.

Installation In overview, installation consists of four steps: (A) making mounts that will distribute the load of the life raft over the coach roof, (B) preparing the deck for the mounts, (C) fitting the mounts to the deck, and (D) attaching the cradle to the mounts.

Making mounts The very first step in this process is to determine the exact position for the cradle by placing it in the desired location and marking drill holes. Then determine how thick the coach roof is by carefully probing with a drill at one of the marked mount points. In a sandwich composite construction, the goal is to cut through the top layer of fiberglass and the balsa core, but not all the way through to the interior fiberglass liner. In our case, these two layers of the coach roof were 2 inches thick, and therefore we knew our mounts would be 2 inches tall.

With this preliminary information established, you can begin to prepare four mounts that will support the cradle. These can be made by stacking discs cut from sheet glass to create a mushroom-shaped mount. Eventually, the mounts will be fitted into four wells in the coach roof, establishing solid attachment points for the life raft.

To construct a mount, you will need to stack a number of discs cut from .25-inch structural fiberglass sheet, with a disc diameter of 2.5 inches. The number of discs depends on the thickness of your deck: for example, our 2-inch-thick coach roof called for eight .25-inch discs. Top off the stack with one wider disc (3 inches in diameter) to achieve the mushroom shape. The discs can be cut using a hole saw with 2.5 and 3-inch fittings. The hole saw will also drill a narrow hole through the center of each disc. You will need four mushroom-shaped mounts all together; for a 2-inch-thick mount, that means cutting a total of 32 narrow discs plus four wider tops.

Next, sand each disc with 100-grit sandpaper and then bond each stack of discs with epoxy (such as West System 105 Epoxy Resin with 205 Fast Hardener). To keep the layers aligned, put a temporary bolt through the center holes and tighten against a washer and nut. A layer of plastic wrap can be put around the bolt to prevent it from sticking to any epoxy.

After the epoxy has hardened, sand the rough edges of each mount. An easy way to do this is to put the protruding part of the temporary bolt into an electric drill and let it spin while you hold sandpaper against it. Once the bolt has served its purpose, it can be removed and the hole widened slightly in preparation for the last stage: tapping a 3/8-inch thread into each mount. These will accommodate the stainless steel machine screws that will eventually fix the cradle to the mounts. In our case, the screws were 3/8-inch by 2 inches; a thinner coach roof might take a 3/8-inch by 1.5-inch screw. At the conclusion of the first step, you will have prepared four mushroom-shaped mounts, each with a hole through the center.

1) The four built-up mounting plugs with the drilled-out mounting wells; 2) masking around the mounting wells to prevent epoxy spills on deck gelcoat; 3) filling the wells with epoxy after coating the plugs with epoxy; 4) filling the gap under the mounting plug lip with epoxy; 5) using bedding compound to fill gaps under the cradle. Raft canister in place on facing page.

Preparing the deck The next step is to drill holes (or wells) into the coach roof as counterparts for the cradle mounts. Be careful only to drill to the depth you have determined. Use the same hole saw fitting to cut 2.5-inch-wide wells into the coach roof. To prevent the central drill bit from penetrating the inner liner, readjust it so that it is flush with the hole saw after cutting through the first quarter-inch of fiberglass and wood.

Once you've made the cuts, carefully lever out the fiberglass/balsa plugs. All that remains now in terms of deck preparation is to sand and clean the inside walls of each well. Make sure the wells are completely dry. You must also sand the surface of the coach roof a half-inch around each well; that's where the wider head of the mushroom-shaped mount will eventually sit. Check that everything fits by temporarily bolting the four mounts to the cradle and placing it into position. This is the time to remedy any tight spots (either by sanding the mounts or using a Dremel tool to widen the well).

When you are satisfied with the fit, clean all contact surfaces of the wells and mounts with acetone. Then generously mask off the areas around the wells to catch the inevitable epoxy run-off.

Fitting the mounts In this step of the process, you will fit the mounts into the coach roof wells. Once you begin working with epoxy, things will move quickly, so be sure you have everything at hand. At this point, the mounts should still be temporarily fitted to the cradle, so you will be handling the cradle as a whole.

It is important to protect the bolts running through the center of each mount from epoxy overflow, because they will be removed one more time before installation is complete. Stuff the lower end of the bolt holes with a small amount of plastic wrap and place a small piece of masking tape over the top of each bolt. This will prevent epoxy from being squeezed up through the hole and sticking to the bolt.

Now you are ready to connect the matching pieces in earnest. Mix a batch of epoxy (such as West System 105 Epoxy Resin with 205 Fast Hardener). Cover both contact surfaces with a layer of clear epoxy: first, all surfaces of the mounts, and second, the insides of the wells (including the extra half-inch ring around the top of each well). Once these sections have a layer of epoxy, add some adhesive filler to the same batch of epoxy (such as West System 406) and partially fill each well with the thickened mixture. This epoxy will fill any void beneath the mounts and will be squeezed up along the walls of each well. Use enough epoxy for some to be squeezed out the top when the mounts are pushed into place. Now place the cradle with its protruding mounts into position and press firmly. Then weigh the cradle down until the epoxy starts to set (for example, by standing on the cradle or putting the life raft on the cradle).

A curved coach roof will still have a small gap between the underside of the flat mount top and the downward curving deck. Use a surgical syringe (50-ml size works best) to apply thickened epoxy into these gaps. Then trim any excess epoxy from the top edge of the mounts. We use out-of-date credit cards or other plastic cards for this purpose; they have just the right stiffness and their corners can be trimmed to the right radius.

After the epoxy has dried, you can complete this step of the installation by painting the mounts so that they match the coach roof. To do so, unbolt the cradle from the mounts and move it aside. Use a soft disc sander to fair the exposed epoxy around the top of the mounts and follow up by hand, using 220-grit sandpaper. This prepares the surface for painting: ideally, use two coats of a two-part polyurethane paint (such as Awlgrip), mixed to match the color of the deck.

Bedding the cradle Once the paint is completely dry, you can move on to the final step. Bedding compound can make a mess, so be sure to mask off the area around the wells in addition to the sections of cradle that might get smudged. Carefully clean all contact surfaces (including the bolts) with acetone. Then apply bedding compound (3M 4000 UV works well) to the undersides of the cradle at each mount point and along the length of every bolt. Excess bedding compound will be squeezed out when you screw in the bolts; this can be trimmed away after it has set. The final step will be to remove the masking tape and mount the life raft onto the cradle. Now you can step back and admire a job well done!

Taken step by step, this process requires more patience than expertise. The result is a neat, secure life raft that can stand up to the forces it may be exposed to. It’s unusual to feel so much satisfaction in installing a piece of equipment you hope never to use, but it’s well worth the effort!

————– Nadine Slavinski and Markus Schweitzer live aboard their 1981 Dufour 35, Namani, with their 8-year-old son, Nicky. They are currently in Panama and heading for the South Pacific. Nadine is the author of Lesson Plans Ahoy: Hands-On Learning for Sailing Children and Home Schooling Sailors (visit www.sailkidsed.net). They were assisted in this installation by Yankee Marina in Yarmouth, Maine.

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By Ocean Navigator

  • Yachting World
  • Digital Edition

Yachting World cover

Focus on liferafts: are you ready should the worst happen?

Yachting World

  • March 2, 2015

Mike Owen looks at the type, content and position of liferafts and asks: are you ready should you need to use it?

yacht coachroof

Crew members of PUMA Ocean Racing practising liferaft drills. Photo: Dave Kneale/Volvo Ocean Race

For six days in May last year Britain held its breath as the search went on for Cheeki Rafiki and her crew. Signals had been reported and hopes were kindled that the four crew might have made it into their liferaft, despite the fact that a yacht had been spotted upside-down with no keel. It was not to be. When Cheeki Rafiki was found inverted, the liferaft was still on board in its dedicated stowage space. See our story from May 2014.

We cannot know what happened aboard Cheeki Rafiki , but we do know more about the less widely reported sinking of the Beneteau Oceanis 50 Blue Pearl 900 miles from Bermuda while on passage across the Atlantic, because the three crew and their dog survived.

Blue Pearl sank in storm conditions after a bulkhead broke up and she began taking on water. The crew took to the raft and, exhausted after enduring 8m waves and 40 knot winds, were rescued the next day. The EPIRB they carried into the liferaft alerted rescuers and guided them to the raft.

A stark contrast and, yes, different situations; in one there was time to consider what action to take; in the other it seems not.

The truth is that catastrophes at sea are rare, but for any individual crew there need be only one, so you have to be ready to go at any time. In the extreme between sink and swim there is the liferaft, but can you get to it? On a pitching deck in the dark with panicking crew can you heave it over the side in time? And what about other essential survival kit?

Liferaft – ready to go

Liferaft – ready to go

Classically, a hard-cased canister liferaft sits cradled on the coachroof, transom, pushpit or in the cockpit retained by quick-release straps. Ideally, it would have a hydrostatic pressure release system, which automatically deploys the raft if the boat should sink. Soft-cased valise liferafts, unsuited to long-term exposure, tend to be tucked away below decks or popped into a lazarette or cockpit locker. Incredibly, in this increasingly aesthetic age, many see liferafts as not just heavy and awkward to lug around, but ugly and to be hidden away.

There is no single best solution for where to stow your liferaft, but there is clear value in reviewing this vital asset. Alistair Hackett of safety equipment manufacturer and distributor Ocean Safety points out the obvious: “A liferaft really should if at all possible have open access to the ocean.”

So that means out in the fresh air; not away in a locker encumbered by clutter and a tangle of ropes and fenders. To focus on the practicalities, consider the 15 seconds ready-to-launch rule that racing and rally organisations such as ISAF and World Cruising recommend. Could you launch yours in 15 seconds from the depths of a cave locker or somewhere in a cabin that may now be on fire? In a bad seaway, let alone in fear, it can take 15 seconds just to think, let alone react.

Could you get at this raft? Photo: onEdition

Could you get at this raft? Photo: onEdition

Beware, too, of the expanding valise. Hackett says: “You have to be careful with modern vacuum-packed valises. The vacuum will ease over time and the package will grow in size. What went into that locker might not now come out. Allow for future space.” It doesn’t bear thinking about the panic that might ensue as you realise “it won’t come, it won’t come . . . ”

Dedicated locker space, created at design stage, might seem the panacea, but do check the reality. Liferafts tend not to have handles and while they slip in easily, they might be awkward to slide or lift out. Ensure that there are foolproof means to retrieve/release the raft. This might simply mean laying in web lifting strops, or more complex solutions might be needed. For instance, check there is more than one way to release covers and lids. You may be unable to reach the appropriate side to open it adequately in extremis. Remember that, in such conditions, you will tire quickly.

In case of capsize

Think how the liferaft in its canister or valise would behave if the boat were upside-down. With inherent buoyancy, it would want to go up, not down and would be pushing hard up into its fixing. Everything would be working against you. A retaining lid might well be held tight by water pressure.

Even if your liferaft is mounted on the coachroof and has a hydrostatic release, you’re far from home and dry. These are pressure-triggered and release only at about three to four metres below the surface. That’s sinking, not capsizing or inversion depth. So it may not release after a capsize, and if it does it will beneath the upturned hull with the possibility that the raft may become ensnared.

The same could be said of an inappropriately designed locker or stowage area, which might constrain hydrostatic release. It seems wise that, if possible, any enclosure or cradle should have a top and bottom or side method of release.

So the best option is to have the raft ready for immediate release overboard, preferably on the stern if at all possible.

Ocean Safety was involved in equipping the Challenge round the world yachts and Alistair Hackett tells us that the Bureau Veritas surveyor wanted liferafts in cradles on the coachroof. “But these were eight-person SOLAS rafts, weighing maybe 80kg. These are so heavy and dangerous to move around on a pitching deck and lift high to heave over the rail with everyone panicking, we said no, simply too unsafe. They went to the transom.”

And that’s now where most round the world racing yachts, including the new Volvo Ocean 65s that Ocean Safety is also equipping, keep their rafts so they can be kicked straight into the ocean or extracted manually if the boat is upside-down.

Liferafts mounted off-centre can be vulnerable to waves when heeled

Liferafts mounted off-centre can be vulnerable to waves when heeled

For a cruising boat the ideal is likely to be a pushpit or sugar scoop transom mounting. Weight in the ends is never welcome, but aboard yachts of 30ft or more it’s not an unreasonable suggestion, structural strength of the railing and fixing permitting.

Rob Gaffney of the Hamble School of Yachting and a lead safety inspector for World Cruising , the ARC organiser, believes stern mounting is the best option: “It’ll generally be quicker to release, involve less lifting and be less likely to snag on damaged rigging.” However, he does acknowledge that it is not always possible. “On some production boats the pushpit rails and fixings are weak and not up to it. On one of our boats we mounted this way, but the feet started flexing, working loose. As a last resort we moved the raft to the coachroof.”

Think about all the possible scenarios you might encounter. “The way the liferaft is deployed is dependent on so many factors,” says Ocean Safety’s Alistair Hackett. “With a sailing couple, one might not be able to manage the liferaft. A half-dozen burly blokes might be strong, but do they know who should do what?”

Rob Gaffney emphasises the importance of well-rehearsed roles. “When it comes to the crunch only 20 per cent act rationally; 80 per cent don’t,” he declares. “Have known, practised roles for each of the crew: who makes the distress call, who prepares for the raft, distributes lifejackets, gets the grab bag and last-minute items – have a list by the chart table or cockpit bulkhead. Pre-plan, practise, think before you set off.”

Which liferaft?

Now you’ve thought about where to stow it, what sort of liferaft do you need? The boat may have ten berths, but that doesn’t mean a ten-person raft is appropriate. How many are normally aboard? The closer a raft is to full capacity, the more stable it will be, so if you regularly sail with four aboard, a four-person raft will be best. If you sail occasionally with eight, it’s better to buy two four-person rafts. You carry the cost of two annual services, but each raft will be easier to heave around and much safer in use.

For offshore sailing, new liferafts should be double-floored and minimum category ISO 9650, preferably Type 1 Group A. It’s important to have the correct survival pack stowed in your raft. Supply pack options vary greatly, from less than to more than 24 hours, and SOLAS B. All are very basic.

To familiarise yourself with the contents ask to see them. You can then add extra grab bag items. Often a supply pack upgrade (more water/food, etc) is supplied separately and if you ask for it to be packed in, you’ll have less to grab in an emergency. You can also ask a service agent to incorporate some of your own extra items when repacking after a service.

If the primary grab bag (waterproof of course) can’t also be packed into the liferaft, keep it attached or at least close by.

A sea survival course may sound terrifying, but I cannot recommend them highly enough – they are a fantastic and very thought-provoking way of preparing for offshore sailing. If possible, do one with your whole crew, as many of the things you learn can be discussed afterwards as a group and will probably lead to useful suggestions or modifications for your yacht.

Central, practical solution for the four rafts on the Challenger yachts

Central, practical solution for the four rafts on the Challenger yachts

Where best to mount the raft?

Matthew Sheahan comments

Matthew Sheahan

Matthew Sheahan

Should liferafts be mounted on the transom? We may never know whether the position of the liferaft aboard Cheeki Rafiki influenced the tragic outcome, but there are those – including myself – who believe that it is time to take a close look at where we fit such a crucial piece of lifesaving equipment.

Fortunately, cases of keelboat capsizes are rare, but when the worst happens, the liferaft is likely to be your only chance of survival unless there are other boats around to help.

When Rambler 100 capsized during the 2011 Fastnet Race the crew were unable to deploy the two liferafts, which were mounted at the after end of the cockpit and were well below the water level once the boat was upside-down.

On the other hand, in 2007 the surviving crew of the 35-footer Hooligan V , who had their liferaft stowed in a similar position, were able to deploy the raft – just – after the boat had lost her keel and turned turtle.

The Marine Accident Investigation Branch (MAIB) findings in this particular incident highlighted the issue of liferaft access, stating: ‘In Hooligan V’s case, the stowage position was a sensible and well-considered compromise. The use of quick-release knots would have helped to expedite the release of the liferaft and is worthy of future consideration.’

As I know only too well, when a keelboat is upside-down there is precious little, if anything, to hold onto. Staying with the upturned boat is a challenge in itself. Mounting a liferaft on the stern could mean you have a better chance of being able to hang onto the boat while deploying the raft that could save your life.

This is an extract from a feature in Yachting World August 2014 issue

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07-08-2016, 21:15  
IOR) with mounted . The incredibly well.
The drawback is is a bit limited and with just 5 cm (2") more it would make a world of a difference. Floor is already quite low.
Does someone know where can I find something similar to a tutorial?
Just like another sailboat where they did it as long as it´s polyester too.
There has to be someone who did a blog with it or something. Even if in other language.

Thanks in advance
08-08-2016, 05:03  
Boat: Nantucket Island 33
: buy another with the desired room. Increasing with surgery will be far more trouble then it's worth. I suspect that is the reason for the dearth of information. It might be possible to increase headroom by removing ceiling or adding hatches at particular points, though.

Sent from my SGP521 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app
08-08-2016, 14:10  
thickness, this is 1" at least, any other 34ft model with enough headroom that I can buy has a lot less.

Another reason is most in the 34ft range with enough headroom have a flatter underwater body, they don´t sail upwind with waves as well as they pound much more.

Because they are lighter, beamier and flatter in the underbody the roll acceleration, very related to seasickness, is much worse. The P341 does 0´10 G´s compared to 0.15-0.20 G´s of with more headroom.

[IMG] 40 ft is out of consideration because of marina and costs.

Why is just raising only 2" so difficult if well done? We´re in 2016!
08-08-2016, 14:18  
Boat: Nantucket Island 33
thickness, this is 1" at least, any other 34ft model with enough headroom that I can buy has a lot less.

Another reason is most boats in the 34ft range with enough headroom have a flatter underwater body, they don´t sail upwind with waves as well as they pound much more.

Because they are lighter, beamier and flatter in the underbody the roll acceleration, very related to seasickness, is much worse. The P341 does 0´10 G´s compared to 0.15-0.20 G´s of boats with more headroom.

[IMG] costs.

Why is just raising only 2" so difficult if well done? We´re in 2016!
08-08-2016, 14:27  
Boat: Sabre 38
08-08-2016, 14:33  
like this. But I think in 2016 something has to be known about the polyester resistance (maybe too?).

Is the polyester used for the coachroof the same than the hull?
If the polyester thickness in the coachroof is increased a bit compared to now why should the coachroof resistance gonna be such a problem? Its just 2"....
08-08-2016, 14:51  
Boat: ‘01 Catana 401
. None of it is rocket science, but needs to be very carefully executed.


Sent from my using Cruisers Sailing Forum
08-08-2016, 14:56  
Boat: Nantucket Island 33
too?).

Is the polyester used for the deck the same than the hull?
If the polyester thickness in the deck is increased a bit compared to now why should the deck resistance gonna be such a problem? Its just 2"....
 
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Coachroof windows: Deciding detail!

  • August 3rd, 2024
  • Yacht Refit

You may know that there is already a new built Omega 42 sailing which has been done by Mueritz Bootsservice in Germany. Hull #401 called WINDFAENGER , owned by my now dear friend Stefan. He is the one who first acknowledged the potential and excitement of reviving Peter Norlin´s iconic sailing yacht and invested into the project. I am happy to have him on my side for his expertise in both building the boat and of course also sailing her – looking so much forward to our next sailing event aboard his beautiful boat. But there are one or two details which I instantly upon seeing his yacht knew I would do differently. One of those details are the coachroof windows.

yacht coachroof

As much as I love the sleek design and the approach by Heiner Francke and his team in the shipyard back at Lake Mueritz, I kind of disapprove the window design on WINDFAENGER. For me, it is way too modern, too edgy, too … I don´t know … it just does not really follow the classic lines of the original. The guys decided to go for this design and form maybe to add a modernistic touch to the classy lines of Norlin, and it certainly works, but for me, personally, I want ALPHA to resemble as much as possible what this yacht was originally intended to look like. The coachroof windows are in this a very, very important and deciding detail, at least for me.

Peter Norlin´s original – and many iterations

Heiner and Stefan haven´t been the first to play with the coachroof window-design of the Omega 42. A quick check of Google picture search reveals that there are probably as many windows-iterations as there are boats. Originally, looking at the drawings of the yacht, Peter Norlin intended to have two sleek, elongated coachroof windows for the deck superstructure.

yacht coachroof

Just very sleek and stretched, these windows follow the lines of the coachroof, taking on the flatness of the whole superstructure and add to the dynamic lines. For me this is a very distinctive feature. For any yacht, the hull windows and coachroof windows in general can be very deciding. Just take Oyster for example – these yachts with their beautiful seascape windows are unmistakably defined design-wise by the three vertical panoramic windows – from the outside as well as from the inside. Back to the Omega 42, I also found one with three of those windows …

yacht coachroof

If the structural integrity and stiffness of the deck allows for it, one would think to go for as many windows as possible. Of course, we want natural light down below and inside the yacht. Especially in a boat that is as narrow and “flat” as the Omega 42, especially because there are no hull windows whatsoever, it may sound like a good idea to have three instead of just two windows. But I am a classic guy – I want my Omega 42 as “original” as possible.

yacht coachroof

Luckily, there are very many original boats still sailing and many owners are happy to share. Back in the day when Heiner and his shipyard crew – due to the fact that there are no original Omega 42-plans by Peter Norlin available – visited Sweden frequently to attend regattas and club races, they crawled dozens of Omega 42 yachts to take measurements and thousands of pictures. In the end, Heiner was able to reconstruct and reverse engineer almost all details of the Omega 42 – including the coachroof windows. I´ve made a whole article on this adventure and masterpiece of engineering work .

Being free to choose: Custom boat building!

I still vividly remember when I first came into contact with the whole Omega 42 idea: A good friend of mine, Skipper Wilfried, a very skilled old salt with whom I´ve had the pleasure to not only share my very first Atlantic Ocean sailing experience but also do some other exciting trips, like crossing the Bay of Biscay , told me years ago: “By the way, if you are seeking a story about some crazy people building a very, very special boat … get into your car and drive to Lake Mueritz.” You can read my article here . Anyway, arriving at the shipyard, WINDFAENGER was shortly before marriage between hull and deck …

yacht coachroof

… just a few building steps more progressed than my boat is now, the deck was hovering above the almost finished and fully fitted hull. You can clearly see the cutouts for the coachroof windows in the pictures above and below. Apparently, Heiner and his crew had used the original lines of Peter Norlin for cutting out the windows, but then went ahead to glue the actual windows from the outside onto the GRP deck. In this they applied modern techniques and materials, this is how it is done in production boatbuilding today: Cheaper, faster and certainly safe.

yacht coachroof

Talking with Heiner, it is good to know that I can choose for my yacht absolutely free how I want to have the windows. The Omega 42 new build project here at Lake Mueritz is a semi-custom and certainly one-off. Owners like myself can decide for almost all details – excluding structural of course – that´s the beauty of this project. With a production yacht, everything is set for you. The options lists are of course limited and therefore iterations and moreover, customizations, can only be done in a very, very small range. Not so here – I am literally free. Funny enough: I stick strictly to the original.

Fitting the gauge model for my new coachroof windows

Last time I´ve visited the shipyard to deliver some more items for the boat, Heiner and his crew had prepared the boat with the 1:1 gauge model for the windows. In this case, it´s a simple plastic film of thick quality. Here, the exact outlines of the coachroof windows are put on with a black Edding marker. Just like the deck hatches and porthole windows , I want my coachroof windows look “classic”.

yacht coachroof

That means that I do not want the sleek, frameless modern design, but purposefully want to go for the aluminium frames or the good old times. In this, it´s not just the looks. The frames provide some protection against scratches which are applied frequently by shoes when walking by and touching the windows by chance. The gauge model display the outline of the window, which would be the metallic frame, and the inner line where the actual cutout would be.

yacht coachroof

Both the forward facing and backwards facing flanks of the windows are angular. The forward facing window is even more radically bent, the backwards facing still a bit. This design can also be seen on many original Omega 42 boats of the first building phase and also on sketches of Norlin. I like the sleekness and elegance of it, very harmonic, dynamic and – yes – also a bit modern.

yacht coachroof

I am sure that these windows will match perfectly the skylight hatches and porthole windows! A day after my visit I am sending these blue gauges to Holland. You may have read my article on the factory visit at Gebo Marine Glazing in Almere . Since I have only good words for these products Made in Holland (I´ve had Gebo hatches on my first boat, OLIVIA, as well , I went for their classy standard hatches. And lucky me, these guys are producing custom windows as well, like now the coachroof windows for ALPHA. I´m really excited to see them in real life.

Hot summer in the shipyard!

Since we have August now and almost all of the businesses are on summer vacation and bank holidays, I don´t expect to receive the windows until mid-September. But apart from this, it will be a hot summer now for ALPHA in the shipyard and certainly a load of articles on the work-in-progress to follow: Diesel-engine fitting, keel casting and so on. Yesterday I finally ordered the Garmin electronics set-up for the boat as many of it must be installed before marriage – most importantly the auto pilot.

yacht coachroof

Next week I will try to do a piece on the keel casting as I will be visiting the foundry. You may expect a series of absolutely one-of-a-kind insight articles on this matter as the casting house is one of the very last small companies doing custom casting in full lead. Absolutely amazing stuff coming up! For now – enjoy your summertime, dearest readers.

© Pictures of classic Omega 42 from Batagent.se and facebook

Other interesting articles which are related:

Building commenced: How my Omega 42-project started

Oyster seascape windows & more – signature design features of a great yacht

Repairing hull windows on my King´s Cruiser 33

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Sadler 26: the little boat with big attitude

Rachael Sprot

  • Rachael Sprot
  • September 8, 2022

Is the Sadler 26 the ultimate small yacht or just an overgrown dinghy? Rachael Sprot steps aboard to find out

A Sadler 26 sailing in the south coast, with white sails

Most of the Sadler 26s built had twin keels, although deep and shallow fins were also available. Credit: Richard Langdon/Ocean Images Credit: Richard Langdon

Product Overview

Manufacturer:.

I’ve always been a fan of small yachts. They’re exponentially cheaper to buy and maintain, the loads are lower, making them safer for new crew, and the shove ‘n’ go boat handling saves a lot of hassle in marinas .

But even by pocket-cruiser standards, 26ft is tiny. And although extraordinary voyages are made on tiny boats, I’ve always thought you’d need an MBA (Masters in Bunk Arrangement) to cope in such confined quarters.

Would the Sadler 26 change my mind?

I joined John Dickson on his Sadler 26, Ella , to find out. John sails Ella on the south coast and English Channel with his wife, Nao, and children, Ollie, 13, and Georgina, 10.

An aerial view of a Sadler 26 sailing

The cockpit is deep and comfortable, with coaming lockers on each side and good leg bracing. Credit: Richard Langdon

He seizes every chance to head out, sometimes just with cockerpoo, Maggie, for company. The first thing I noticed when I stepped aboard Ella in the river Hamble, was that she didn’t baulk at my weight, as I was expecting.

She may only be 26ft long, but with over 9ft of beam there’s plenty of form stability. The real secret behind her feeling of buoyancy, however, is that her double-skinned hull is filled with foam.

A man wearing a red tshirt and a lifejacket holding a brown dog while sailing

John Dickson sails his Sadler 26, Ella with his wife, Nao, and children Ollie and Georgina. A professional jazz musician, John also sails Ella solo from the river Hamble on the UK’s south coast. Credit: Richard Langdon

Scarred by the terrible loss of life of the 1979 Fastnet Race when several yachts sank, Martin Sadler, David Sadler’s son, designed the 26 and 29 to withstand significant water ingress.

Although their unsinkability was never officially established, in one test the 26 was sailed through overfalls under full sail in a Force 5 with the seacocks open and half full of water, which sounds pretty conclusive to me.

Folkboat DNA in the Sadler 26

Like all successful species, the Sadler 26 is the product of evolution. Deep in her ancestry you’ll find the Folkboat, but you’ll have to go via the Sadler 25 and Sadler-designed Contessa 26 to find it.

There’s still a hint of her Nordic origins in the high bow and swoosh of sheer, although the full stern looks somewhat truncated. The underwater profile is sea-kindly and a transom-hung rudder has a full-depth skeg providing protection and directional stability.

A woman wearing a red lifejacket sailing a tiller steered boat

The helm is light and responsive, and the cockpit is well set up for singlehanded sailing. Credit: Richard Langdon

There were several keel options. Most were built with twin keels , but there are also deep and shallow-fin keels and lifting keels. The twin keels are relatively fine and deep in order to preserve sailing performance to windward.

Aloft, there’s a masthead rig with large overlapping genoa and respectable ballast ratio of 41%.

The construction technique is quite different to modern balsa or foam-cored hulls. The outer skin is full strength and the inner skin is a moulded lining.

The deck of a Sadler 26

The 9ft 4in beam gives the Sadler 26 a wide deck, with enough room to stand by the shrouds. Credit: Richard Langdon

Apparently the foam wasn’t originally considered essential for strength but it does play an important role in this regard, providing extra stiffness.

The strategically placed pockets of polyurethane foam don’t just provide buoyancy, they also insulate the hull, reducing condensation and noise.

Around fittings such as keel bolts there’s no foam: the two skins meet to form a solid layer of GRP .

The major downside of this construction method is that it could be expensive and complicated to repair if water seeps into the foam, which may become increasingly likely as these boats age.

A pre-purchase survey will be important to identify any problems.

Well-considered cockpit

On deck, the coachroof remains in proportion to the rest of the yacht, the curved top softening the outline.

Two pairs of rounded portlights, one small and one large, are easy on the eye.

A teak handrail accentuates her lines and breaks up the otherwise large expanse of gelcoat. The teak rubbing strake is another attractive detail which also covers the hull-to-deck join, which is bolted and glued together.

A Sadler 26 with a white hull and white sails sailing past the coast

The Sadler 26 came with a masthead rig, supported by a forestay, backstay and in-line caps and lowers. The foretriangle is larger than the mainsail. Credit: Richard Langdon

The moulded toerail gives a secure foothold, but the scarcity of scuppers means that water collects on the sidedecks, especially if you’ve slightly altered the trim by adding too much weight in the bow or stern, which is easy to do on a small boat.

The stanchions drop into sockets in the toerail, which seems like a neat solution, but means that if you have any abrupt encounters with the dock you not only bend a stanchion, but might damage the deck-moulding too.

Some boats, including Ella , have fitted bolt-on stanchion bases instead. The sidedecks are wider than you might expect thanks to her beam, with room to stand by the shrouds when coming alongside.

An anchor sitting in an anchor well on a yacht

The anchor well is sealed off from the vee-berth. Credit: Richard Langdon

There’s a proper anchor well to keep muddy chain sealed off from the vee-berth. Look closely enough at the cockpit though, and you start to have a sense of where Sadler’s priorities lie. It may look unremarkable, but it’s an excellent working area when sailing, both comfortable and functional.

The square shape of the cut-off transom is a compromise worth making, allowing room for three adults or a few more little people. The benches are the perfect width to brace across when heeling, even for those of us with short legs.

It’s still small enough to reach all the controls when singlehanded though, with halyards and reefing lines led back along the coachroof.

A metal stanchion base on a yacht

Bolt-on stanchion bases replace the original moulded ones in the toerail. Credit: Richard Langdon

The transom-hung rudder positions the tiller well aft, so that it doesn’t dominate the space.

Standing with the tiller in hand, there’s a clear line of vision forwards even with the sprayhood up. The deep coamings make a comfortable backrest.

The recessed storage cubbies are a useful feature often missing on larger yachts.

When beating to windward, the coachroof gives shelter from a full bombardment of green water.

The only drawback is that the traveller position is directly in front of the companionway hatch. Owing to the small mainsail though, it’s relatively easy to manage.

A good use of space

The starboard-side cockpit locker swallows up gear and houses a stainless-steel fuel tank. Ella had a large removable panel to give better access to the back of the engine , gearbox and stern gland, which is a very practical modification.

A 90-litre flexible water tank lives under the cockpit sole, making good use of otherwise redundant space. Slide back the companionway hatch and you reveal a bright, compact interior.

Immediately to starboard of the companionway is the galley with a small sink, coolbox and boat cooker . The previous owner had dispensed with the full-sized oven and put extra stowage beneath the hob.

Navigation equipment on a boat

Mounting navigation equipment by the companionway makes it easier for John to sail singlehanded. Credit: Richard Langdon

Locker space is minimal here, but if you’re not too ambitious about what you cook, the space is perfectly adequate. The top of the engine box provides additional work surface for food prep.

A spacious quarterberth runs under the port side of the cockpit and a cleverly designed nav table pulls out above it on older models.

John has mounted navigation equipment here which made it easy to reach from the cockpit, a useful feature when singlehanded sailing .

Lifejackets and coats hanging up in a boat

The hanging locker is useful for storing lifejackets and foulies. Credit: Richard Langdon

In a neat metamorphosis, the saloon table drops down to create a double bunk. The starboard-side bench is too short to be a full-sized bunk, unless you push through into the hanging locker forwards as some owners have done.

Beyond the main bulkhead is the heads compartment with wet locker opposite.

The vee-berth gains a feeling of additional space from the raised coachroof and large foredeck hatch above. It’s not a plush interior, but the inner mouldings have aged well and provide plenty of storage beneath.

A rudder on a yacht

The transom-hung rudder is supported on a full-length skeg and gives the Sadler 26 good manoeuvrability. Credit: Richard Langdon

The foam insulates each stowage compartment, meaning that items stored under bunks suffer less condensation and mildew.

The major drawback of the interior is headroom. John is 5ft 6in and can stand up in the cabin, but if you’re much taller you’ll be spending most of your time stooped over – many people would find the maximum headroom of 5ft 10in restrictive.

Without totally destroying the proportions, it would be hard to achieve more headroom on a boat of this size and for those with longer legs, the similarly constructed Sadler 29 is worth considering.

Impressive handling

The original engines were 10hp Bukhs and then 9hp Volvo Pentas. Ella had a more recent 20hp Beta Marine.

It’s a tight fit in the engine compartment, but the enlarged access panel in the cockpit locker allows most jobs to be conducted in situ. It gave an impressive 6 knots through the water at 2,000 RPM.

‘I’m really glad of the extra power,’ said John. ‘When the kids have had enough and you’re fighting the tide and you just want to get home, she can do it.’

The saloon on a Sadler 27 with a table and built in chairs

The 5ft 10in max headroom in the saloon can feel restrictive. Credit: Richard Langdon/Ocean Images

She was pretty nifty when it came to tight turns in the river Hamble, employing all the leverage of her transom-hung rudder. Although Sadler is renowned for producing yachts that sail well, I confess I was a little dubious about the 26.

There’s a lot of yacht crammed into 26 feet and with the twin keels too, I wondered what had been sacrificed in the quest for interior volume and a moderate draught.

But after hoisting the main and unfurling the 140% genoa on Southampton Water, she set off impressively.

Two people on the cockpit of a white hulled yacht with white buoys hanging over the side

There’s a good view from the cockpit when helming, even with the sprayhood up. Credit: Richard Langdon

Despite only having 7-8 knots of true wind, she made 4 knots with ease and the helm was feather-light.

In fact, she was so well balanced that we gave up helming entirely and just tweaked the sails to adjust the course.

She made 35°AWA when the wind held, slipping off to 40°AWA when it decreased.

It was a slack tide and the chartplotter showed crisp, right-angled tacks. She was a pleasure to sail.

Compact but clever

Tacking a boat with a big foretriangle is harder work than modern, fractional rigs, but she’s small enough that most of the genoa sheet can be pulled in by hand.

Downwind there wasn’t enough breeze to put her through her paces, but she ghosted along at 3 knots in only 5-6 knots of wind. It’s a fairly modest sail area, but she still felt responsive and moved with a sense of purpose.

For singlehanders and families alike, you don’t want too much power anyway.

The galley on the Sadler 26 with an oven, gas cooker and sink

Interior mouldings have aged well, including in the galley, where the engine box provides an extra food preparing area. Credit: Richard Langdon

Underpinning all of that, there’s a feeling of seaworthiness and the design is well-proven. Sadler 25s and 26s have been used successfully in short-handed events such as the AZAB and OSTAR .

One of the pleasures of small boat sailing is that you’re more likely to sail the boat to its full potential. It’s much less arduous to play with the control lines so you can experiment with twist and car position without breaking into a sweat. But the boat needs to be responsive to sail in the first place.

On the Sadler 26, performance has been preserved to the right level: she’ll reward an ambitious sailor and take care of a novice.

In the summer, John and the family use the boat for hybrid sailing holidays. He’ll deliver her to the West Country or Channel Islands alone or with friends, and then they’ll join him for a week of cruising, perhaps taking a holiday cottage for a few days to give themselves a bit more space.

Continues below…

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Sadler 290

Sadler 290: A powerful & roomy twin-keeler

When she was launched in 2003, the Sadler 290 was probably the roomiest and most powerful 29ft twin-keeler ever built…

As the children grow up they might consider upsizing, but John is pragmatic about the fact that they may not share his passion for sailing. If not, he’ll continue to enjoy the solitude of solo sailing without the stress of handling a larger yacht.

The compression of space on a small yacht means that every centimetre matters and each element of the design has to be carefully weighed.

I was impressed by how little was missing from the Sadler 26. Things work harder by multi-tasking and ingenious transformations turn chart tables into sleeping areas and bunks become dinner tables. So you can have it all on a 26 foot boat, just not at the same time.

There’s a can-do attitude to the Sadler 26. It’s a boat that can be sailed solo or with a family. The inherent buoyancy inspires confidence for those venturing further afield, or you can creek crawl and escape the marina scene locally.

A berth on a yacht with a hatch

The large forepeak hatch makes the vee-berth feel spacious. Credit: Richard Langdon

She has all the facilities of a bigger yacht, albeit not simultaneously. The accommodation is well-laid-out and will just about allow for the routines of normal life. I wouldn’t attempt a Sunday roast on board but knowing the kind of people who sail these boats, it’s probably been done.

For all her merits though, it’s the sailing performance that stands out for me.

How many boats out there can accommodate a family of four and offer safety and seaworthiness at only 26ft? Not many. And how many of those will be fun to sail? Even fewer.

Overgrown dinghy? Absolutely, in the best possible way.

Expert opinion on the Sadler 26

Ben Sutcliffe-Davies, Marine Surveyor and full member of the Yacht Brokers Designers & Surveyors Association (YDSA) www.bensutcliffemarine.co.uk

Back in the day I used to own a Sadler 25, and my friend’s dad ordered one of the 26s off-plan and was certainly not disappointed with the level of fitout. Whilst many have stood the test of time, there are some niggles you need to be aware of.

In my view, and the view of many other surveyors, the infill foam is actually an essential part of construction, bonding the outer hull moulding to the internal moulding.

Unfortunately, one of the biggest challenges with the 26 today is where the foam has absorbed water. This causes softening of the structure, both externally and internally, and should not be ignored.

A yacht with a white hull and white sails sailing along the coast

Like the Sadler 29, the Sadler 26 is double-skinned, with polyurethane foam between the outer hull and interior moulding boosting buoyancy even when flooded. Credit: Richard Langdon

This is common with twin-keel versions that have taken the ground regularly, which will result in softening around the keel root externally and movement of the internal framing near the keel fastenings.

I’d strongly recommend seeing the craft lifted and tip tests undertaken on the keels to see what deflections are occurring, both inside and outside.

Other issues include moisture in the deck pad due to the wiring of deck instruments, rotten ply where the chain plates have been fitted internally, seriously worn fastening points on the stem cap for the forestay, and the overloading of the rudder skeg on the twin-keel versions, where there has been repetitive grounding.

Alternatives to the Sadler 26

Contessa 26.

The Mini Cooper of the sailing world, there were almost 800 of these little yachts built over a period of almost 30 years and they’ve gained a cult following.

A mould was exported to Canada where several hundred more were built as the Taylor 26, after a trademark dispute.

Remarkably, the lines were never drawn as such, but a mould was made from a Folkboat hull and a few adaptations made to give a higher freeboard and slightly more internal volume.

A yacht with a blue hull and white sails

A deep forefoot makes motion smooth on the Contessa 26. Credit: Rupert Holmes

Unlike the Folkboat, the Contessa 26 has a masthead rig and large overlapping genoa. The cockpit is small, even for a boat of this size, but having the mainsheet at the aft end of it makes the space there more usable.

Sail area-to-displacement ratio is low but a lot of that weight is in the keel. They aren’t renowned for their light airs performance, but the wetted surface area is less than you might imagine, thanks to the short waterline length and narrow beam.

In fact, the Contessa 26 often features in podium positions for Round the Island Race and has won a few too.

The encapsulated long keel and transom-hung rudder are attractive features, and the solid deck eliminates the problem of a soggy core.

The price you pay for an attractive boat that sails well is accommodation. There’s only 5ft of headroom except directly under the raised companionway moulding.

A white yacht with sails

The sheets are in easy reach of the helm, making the Contessa 26 good for singlehanding. Credit: Graham Snook

There were three original layouts, A, B and C. All had two 6ft 6in saloon berths and 6ft 3in vee-berths.

The main differences were that there was no heads compartment in layout A; the loo was positioned between the vee-berth. This brought the vee-berth aft and created space for a proper anchor locker. On B and C configurations, a starboard heads compartment pushed the vee-berth right forward. A and C have the galley amidships; it is aft by the companionway on layout B. There’s no room for a saloon table and it’s minimalist-style living.

The Contessa 26 is incontestably pretty and has proven to be a bulletproof offshore cruiser boasting many high-profile circumnavigations.

They command a premium because of their deserved reputation, but won’t suit everyone.

Very much of their time, they’re nonetheless sought-after for 21st century adventures.

Trapper 300

Until recently, I’d never heard of Trapper, but when my sister bought a Trapper 500 a few years ago, I wondered why they weren’t better known.

They produced several pokey performance-cruisers in the 70s and 80s with nice lines and a good turn of speed. The 300 was designed by Bruce Kirby, who also drew the Laser dinghy (enough said), and based on a successful Quarter-Tonner, but they were aimed at the cruising market.

The 300 is a fin-keeled, masthead sloop with a semi-balanced spade rudder. The bow is razor-sharp and there’s a neatly tapered stern.

The saucer-shaped hull profile is much wider at deck level than it is at the waterline, creating space on deck and increasing buoyancy when heeled, but with minimal wetted surface area in light airs. The cockpit is compact but deep and safe.

A blue and white hulled boat with a white sail with a coloured edging sailing

A deep cockpit on the Trapper 300 provides security. Credit: David Harding

The traveller location right in front of the companionway hatch might be frustrating on long passages if you’re often going in and out, though it’s less of an issue when coast-hopping.

The internal layout varies between the Mk 1 or Mk 2 but both have comfortable saloon seating and a saloon table.

On the Mk 1 version the galley is by the companionway, on the Mk 2 it occupies the port side of the saloon.

There’s a standard heads and hanging locker arrangement forwards of the mast and full-length vee-berth. Largely composed of interior mouldings, the insides of many remain in good condition.

If you want something that’s rewarding to sail, looks pretty and has enough space for minimalist cruising, they’re a really good option, and often better value than higher- profile designs.

Westerly Griffon

The Griffon is unmistakably Westerly , with a high coachroof and square-cut transom utilising every inch of boat length.

She was the first Westerly designed by Ed Dubois, and has a more streamlined look than the older Laurent Giles models.

Although she’s still a bit boxy to the eye, the rewards are reaped below where there are two-and-a-half double bunks and 5ft 9in headroom all the way forward.

There’s the usual vee-berth arrangement, generous saloon with pull-out seating that converts to a double, and an almost double bunk in the port quarterberth.

A yacht with a white hull sailing on mirror flat water

High topsides on the Westerly Griffon and a chunky coachroof offers ample headroom down below. Credit: Bob Aylott

The Mk 1 version had a fold-down saloon table and sapele joinery. The Mk 2 had a sturdy fixed table with folding leaves and teak woodwork.

The galley occupies the starboard side as you come down the companionway and beneath the starboard side of the cockpit there’s a large locker. On deck, the cockpit is larger than average with the mainsheet position aft.

It will comfortably accommodate four for sailing, and six for cockpit drinks with the tiller up. Halyards and reefing lines lead to the cockpit, making her suitable for singlehanded sailing .

Most of them were bilge-keelers but a few had fin keels. They are reported to perform well for this keel configuration and have plenty of sail area, but pointing probably won’t be their forte.

If creek crawling and getting away from it all is more your thing than haring round the cans, and you’re looking for a boat with a nice temperament that’s comfortable for longer periods of time and gentle on the crew, here she is.

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How we converted our wooden sailboat into a charming motoryacht

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When Charles and Gillian Taylor decided to make the move from sail to power they couldn’t bear to leave their custom-built sailing boat behind. The solution was simply to transform it into a gorgeous little motor boat.

Soon after they got married, in 2007, Charles and Gillian Taylor commissioned Dick Phillips to build them a sailing boat, “as a sort of wedding present to ourselves,” Charles tells me.

The boat in question was a Nigel Irens-designed Roxane which was intended to be “halfway between” the sailing boats that Charles and Gillian had each owned previously.

At that time, the Roxane was being built in GRP in Holland. The Taylors, however, decided theirs should be timber or, more specifically, western red cedar strip planking over a Douglas fir backbone and frames, all sheathed with epoxy resin and glass cloth.

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Roxanne of Restronguet was launched in May 2009 and for several years the Taylors raced and cruised her in the West Country while keeping her on a drying mooring near their home in Restronguet Creek.

Although Nigel Irens had designed the boat with a two-masted lugger rig with unstayed carbon masts, Roxanne initially had a gunter sloop rig, but this was soon converted to a cutter rig with a bowsprit and then to a more powerful rig with an integral topsail.

yacht coachroof

Roxanne in her former sailing days

After a few years the Taylors became less enthusiastic about using the same boat for both racing and cruising . About four years ago they took the first step to solving this problem by buying a Piper, a 24ft day-sailing boat to use purely for racing in a growing fleet at St Mawes Sailing Club.

Meanwhile they continued to cruise Roxanne but found they only really enjoyed sailing her – especially when they were trying to get to a specific destination – when it was blowing Force 3 to 4, at most other times they preferred to motor.

During this time a new idea “developed slowly”, that at some point they would get a motor boat, not least because Charles was finding that the arthritis in his neck was worsening. That idea then morphed into another one, that they would convert Roxanne into a motor boat.

yacht coachroof

Owners Charles and Gillian were too attached to sell so converted it instead

This became more than just an idea sooner than they might have expected when they were approached by someone who was building his own Roxane and was keen to buy their rig.

Charles and Gillian then had a breakfast meeting with Nigel Irens to sound him out. “He just said to us that ‘it’s your boat and you can do what you want’, ” said Charles.

“But he also pointed out that, however much power we gave her, she wouldn’t go any faster than her theoretical maximum hull speed for a displacement boat.”

yacht coachroof

With the coachroof removed the transformation to a motor yacht can begin

Work began in October 2019 at Penpol Boatyard where Roxanne ’s stern was modified. Originally, she had a transom-hung rudder, with the transom itself raked aft and flat. The length on deck was now extended by just 6in but with a new transom – vertical and slightly curved – her waterline length was increased by 2ft 6in.

The rudder stock is now in a rudder tube inside the hull – in approximately the same relative position as it was – and the tiller has been replaced by a small wheel mounted on the aft bulkhead of the cockpit footwell.

The main reason for this alteration was for appearances sake – “to make her look more like a motor boat” – but it has the further advantage of providing a useful lazarette locker where before there was none.

yacht coachroof

The new plywood superstructure gradually starts to take shape

The only other change to the hull was to remove some internal ballast (which had been installed when the third, more powerful rig was added) and the 90kg centreplate. The fixed external lead ballast keel of about 1.5 tonnes was retained.

Perfecting the design

Roxanne ’s modified hull was then moved to Restronguet Barton where local boatbuilders Phil Austin, Hans Jolivet and Holly Latham – all of whom had done boatbuilding work for the Taylors previously – could carry out the rest of the work.

By far the most significant change to the appearance of the boat (apart from the absence of a sailing rig) is to the superstructure. The final design was the result of “nearly three months of plywood templating” by the Taylors, Phil and Hans to ensure it looked right and worked ergonomically.

yacht coachroof

The coachroof was previously low and short, with coamings about 9in high and extending from the forward cockpit bulkhead to just short of the mast position. It is now significantly higher, has a substantial overhang over the forward end of the cockpit (incorporating the sliding companionway hatch), and has a lower section extending further forward.

The new plywood coamings were fitted to the outside of the old ones. The coachroof beams are laminated Douglas fir with plywood on top and then epoxy glassed.

The slightly curved side windows are 6mm polycarbonate while the flat ones forward (which have Vetus windscreen wipers) and aft are 6mm laminated glass. The cockpit layout is more or less as it was.

Further adjustments

The height extension to the coachroof is mainly to allow an inside steering position which is located aft and to starboard where previously there was a chart table. Aft of this is a quarter berth which has been retained but is used more for storage than for sleeping.

The galley in the port aft corner has also been retained. This now seems strangely low down with the coachroof so much higher but, as Gillian said, “you kind of adapt to it, and it is practical and robust enough so if you want to stand on any of it you can.”

yacht coachroof

The port side settee/berth has been shortened in order to extend the heads compartment and allow the installation of a proper sea toilet to replace the previous chemical one, but the starboard settee/berth is unchanged.

Previously, the centreboard case had a permanent table on top of it but now that this has been removed, there is the opportunity to fit slats between the two settee/berths with the back rest cushions on top of them to form an athwartships double berth.

A new table stowed on the forward bulkhead folds down onto a vertical support and a folding leaf allows it to also be used from the starboard settee. This can also be used as a chart table, while the charts can now be stowed vertically on the aft saloon bulkhead. The forward cabin is largely unchanged but it does now have significantly better headroom, albeit not standing.

yacht coachroof

Roxanne ’s original Yanmar two-cylinder YM15 diesel engine was upgraded to a three-cylinder Beta 25hp in 2017 to allow longer distance cruising, and this has been retained. Her 50-litre stainless steel fuel tank has also been retained but supplemented by the addition of a second one of similar size.

The gear and throttle changeover system between the two steering positions has been giving some problems so there is a plan to change this to a Kobalt system, which will have the main unit outside and the slave inside, and won’t require any action when changing position. The steering system is Vetus hydraulic.

Roxanne originally had just 24 litres of fresh water capacity, with a 12-litre tank under each settee/berth. One of these has now been removed while the other has been moved to the forward cabin and has a 12-volt immersion heater element.

yacht coachroof

The new inside helm at the aft end of the saloon

Two new 65-litre tanks have now been installed high up under the side decks amidships, with the intention of dampening any roll the boat may have. Their height also has the advantage of allowing a gravity feed to the galley sink.

Ready for relaunch

Roxanne has an intriguing safety system designed to keep her afloat in the event of hull damage. Under the quarter berth is a compressed air tank which, when its valve is opened, inflates two buoyancy bags (of a cubic metre capacity each) stowed behind the settee backrests.

“The hull and deck would float anyway as they are built of timber,” said Charles, “so the bags only really need to float the engine and ballast keel. This means we don’t need to carry a liferaft.”

yacht coachroof

A cockpit wheel replaces the former tiller

Roxanne of Restronguet was relaunched in her new configuration in August 2021. During the course of the summer Charles and Gillian used her as often as they could but didn’t get the chance to go as far afield as they would have liked.

I was interested to know if the position of the cockpit wheel caused confusion in that it is aft of a sitting position with the top of the wheel having the opposing effect of the tiller to which they had become accustomed. “It was a bit confusing at first,” Charles admitted.

“It isn’t very intuitive and we found ourselves referring to the Raymarine rudder angle indicator quite often. But we soon got used to it and it is very neat and out of the way.”

yacht coachroof

The double height galley to port

I also wondered if they had considered having the inside helm station at the forward end of the saloon close to the forward windows. They said that they had but that “we couldn’t work out how that would affect the interior layout and the access to the forepeak.

“The visibility from the aft position is perfectly adequate, and very often we will let the autopilot do the steering and keep a lookout by standing in the companionway.”

Rolling in the deep

I talked to Nigel Irens about “roll theory” with particular regard to a sailing boat without a mast. “All boats have a natural rolling frequency,” he told me. “The combination of the keel and mast on a sailing boat tends to result in a slow natural rolling frequency but, by removing the mast, the roll frequency is likely to be quite quick and snappy.”

yacht coachroof

Extending the aft deck with a new vertical transom helps balance the extra height of the coachroof

He also told me that removing the external ballast keel and replacing it with wood would be a terrible idea as the boat would float much too high and may even take up a settled position heeled over to one side or the other (and he also advised Charles and Gillian of this at their breakfast meeting).

Meanwhile Charles and Gillian have experimented in various sea conditions with their side water tanks full and empty. “The roll is noticeably less with them full,” said Charles.

Charles confirmed that Nigel was right about the boat’s maximum speed. At the maximum engine speed of 3000rpm she has managed 7.8 knots but they usually run her at about 2300rpm which gives 7.5 knots in flat water, while at the tickover of 1000rpm she does 5.5 knots.

yacht coachroof

Gillian takes full advantage of the raised aft helm station while Charles sits in the companionway

Roxanne ’s conversion included the addition of a Vetus tunnel bow thruster with joystick controls at both helm stations. “People forgive you if you make a bit of a mess coming into a marina in a long-keeled sailing boat,” said Charles, “but they might not if you do it in a motor boat! I am delighted we fitted that, it is really helpful.”

The combination of an extended stainless-steel pulpit – made by local fabricator Keefe Engineering – and teak handrails on the coachroof “makes it feel very safe getting between the cockpit and the foredeck,” said Gillian.

There is a new anchor locker with room for 40m of chain and 50m of anchor plait on the foredeck, with no windlass for now but the installation of one is being considered.

yacht coachroof

The winches mounted on the cockpit coamings and formerly used for the headsail sheets have been retained as they are found to be very useful when mooring up.

Charles and Gillian are clearly very pleased with Roxanne ’s conversion. They were both heavily involved throughout and are greatly indebted to Hans, Phil, Holly and Penpol Boatyard. “We wouldn’t have wanted to take on this sort of project without such talented people,” said Charles, “they have all got a really good eye.

“We knew we were destined to get a motor boat,” Charles says, “but when it came to it, selling Roxanne was never going to be an option.”

First published in the March 2022 issue of MBY.

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yacht coachroof

Beneteau Oceanis 51.1 – tested and reviewed

Beneteau’s oceanis 51.1 features a radical hull shape with ‘champagne glass’ sections. but does that lead to the sailing equivalent of lambrusco sam jefferson finds out.

Sailing Today Magazine review of Beneteau, Oceanis 51.1

C hines. Back in the days before yacht designers got hold of them, chines were generally steep coastal valleys – or in fact a method of taking cuts of meat from the spine of an animal (preferably dead). Anyway, once yacht designers got hold of them, they took on an entirely new meaning. In the world of yacht racing a chine – essentially inserting a hard angle into the profile of the hull shape – can provide a yacht with a performance boost in certain circumstances. In the world of yacht cruising, they are generally used to give a yacht a dramatic look and provide yet more internal volume aft.

Yet, in recent years, designers have begun to move away from the hard chine aft. To my mind this is no bad thing. From a purely aesthetic point of view I have always favoured a curved backside over an angular one. That’s just me though. You might feel differently: different strokes for different folks, as the Americans might say. Anyway, whatever the reason, chines are on the way out – or at least that seemed to be the case until the Beneteau Oceanis 51.1 turned up. She’s designed by Berret Racoupeau and the team. Evidently they were scratching their heads to try and work out how they could gain the internal volume of a chined hull without bucking the trend of a shapely, curved behind. Their answer was simple: stick the chine at the front of the boat.

Beneteau Oceanis 51.1

I had to smile when I first viewed this; the last time I saw a boat with a chine at the bow it was a Westerly Centaur which, for all its admirable qualities, is not necessarily the easiest thing on the eye. In fairness, those in the world of racing will be familiar with this concept of a forward chine which was used to good effect in the Rambler 88 fairly recently; a yacht which, unlike any Westerly Centaur I’m familiar with, won the Voiles de St Barths regatta. In common with Rambler 88, the Oceanis 51.1 carries off this forward chine with aplomb. The yacht looks smart and purposeful – a cunningly thought out two-tone paint scheme also offsets her relatively high freeboard and the coachroof is low and sleek; the chine runs from the bow about two-thirds of the way down the hull and when you view the yacht out of the water it really is a very distinctive step that adds a huge amount of volume to the hull forward. Back aft the chine melts away and the stern swells out to a nicely rounded and shapely transom with twin rudders tucked beneath. It’s an interesting new take on things and this is always exciting as cruising yachts are rarely revolutionary; yet there is something almost daring about this new yacht.

Sailing Today Magazine review of Beneteau, Oceanis 51.1

Chine on you crazy diamond

Beneteau appears to have gone a bit bonkers when it comes to branding up the range too, and there is a slightly bewildering choice of configurations comprising ‘First’ for a racier option, ‘Comfort’ for a more out and out cruising option and ‘Easy’ for a nice simple set up featuring a self-tacking headsail. Indeed, the main difference between the three iterations is in the rig and keel with the ‘First’ version available with a carbon mast, 35 per cent more sail area and a deep bulbed keel as standard. In addition, the deck hardware is upgraded. This was the model I tested. In contrast, the Comfort version features that distinctive giant arch over the cockpit which Beneteau introduced across its range a few years back now. Meanwhile, the Easy version comes with a self-tacking headsail, as already mentioned, plus in mast furling. Combine that with keel options of 9ft 2in, 7ft 7in (the standard version) and 6ft 1in for the shoal draft version and you have a versatile and flexible yacht. I stepped aboard the yacht via the electric drop down bathing platform with a second step that flips down obligingly and beckons you aboard. Having negotiated this, you find yourself in a comfortable and carefully thought out cockpit. The 51.1 has plenty of beam aft and that makes for more than ample room.

Sailing Today Magazine review of Beneteau, Oceanis 51.1

In common with many of the latest cruising yachts, Beneteau has opted to create two very separate areas in the cockpit. Forward of the twin wheels is entirely devoted to the important business of lounging and there is a substantial single cockpit table which has room beneath for a liferaft, plus excellent handholds. Other than that, it’s all about masses of lounging room with yet more cockpit cushions set into the aft section of the coachroof itself. The only drawback I could see is that it did mean that the mainsheet traveller was very far forward which might make it somewhat heavy in strong winds. Move aft, and you get to the technical end of the yacht; the coachroof is entirely devoid of winches and clutches and instead all of the running rigging has been set in channels underneath the cockpit coamings, which all emerge right in front of the helmsman’s binnacles and can be dealt with via two pairs of winches which service both helming positions. There is also a huge lazarette back here and the dinghy is deployed via those fiddly telescopic pull up davits that personally I have never managed to deploy without getting them jammed or something mysteriously falling off.

Sailing Today Magazine review of Beneteau, Oceanis 51.1

The binnacles were somewhat on the small side I felt, and the result was that the throttle lever didn’t fit and was instead set low down and not in the ideal position for a spot of close quarters manoeuvring but other than that, this is a very efficient and ergonomically well thought out yacht which proved a breeze to handle. Wandering up forward, there was adequate deck width and decent handholds. The bow terminates in a sprit with an integrated anchor roller. There is the option of having the forward bow locker as crew quarters if required and this space is surprisingly pleasant compared to the dank dungeons that I have personal experience of.

Sailing Today Magazine review of Beneteau, Oceanis 51.1

Rise and chine 

Step down below via an extremely carefully thought out companionway which has been thoughtfully angled and features plentiful handholds and you’re in for a surprise. There’s just so much space. You can’t help but feel like going straight back up on deck to look on the side of the hull to check that this genuinely is a 51ft yacht as the label suggests. There is an awful lot of volume down here and this is particularly obvious forward where that chine really does open up the opportunity for what has to be class leading amounts of volume. There is also an awful lot of light. This is partly due to the vast amount of portlights and skylights, but it also helps that Beneteau has introduced a new finish, termed brushed oak, that the test boat was decked out in and gave the yacht a very pleasant ambience. There are four different layout options with anything up to four separate double berths with various permutations on this theme.

Sailing Today Magazine review of Beneteau, Oceanis 51.1

The choice favoured by most cruisers will probably be one large master cabin forward and a pair of doubles aft. If you choose this arrangement you get a positively palatial master bedroom with separate shower and heads. Meanwhile there are en-suites for both aft cabins. In the main saloon area the galley is C-shaped and compact with an excellent bracing point should you be cooking up a storm in a storm.

Forward of the galley there is an L-shaped seating arrangement which segues in to a seating area abaft of the chart table. The chart table is actually far more generous than many of the 51.1’s rivals and it is testament to the vast amount of extra internal volume that this is possible. All in all, the interior felt lighter and noticeably different to many other production yachts and I must say I stepped back into the cockpit feeling deeply impressed with the manner in which Beneteau appear to have upped their game.

Sailing Today Magazine review of Beneteau, Oceanis 51.1

All of this is all very well, but there is absolutely no point in managing to create all of this extra space if the boat sails like an absolute stinker. I tested the yacht off the Catalan coast and conditions were pretty modest with the breeze varying between 10-15kt.

I was interested to see if she might be a bit sticky in such conditions as that flare forward might start to drag as she heeled to the light winds. As previously mentioned, Beneteau had very wisely presented us with one of the ‘First’ models of its range which came equipped with the extra sail area, upgraded sails and a carbon mast. This doubtless all helped in the modest conditions and I have to say that the yacht behaved impeccably.

Sailing Today Magazine review of Beneteau, Oceanis 51.1

On the wind she was achieving a comfortable 6-7kt and she was light on her feet with a really impressive turn of speed. As if to back this up, I followed up a sail on the 51.1 with a quick spin in the Beneteau Oceanis 55 and – admittedly minus a gennaker and with the breeze easing – this big yacht felt much more like what she was – a big, heavy cruising yacht. All in all, the 51.1 was also exceptionally easy to handle and I have to say that all manufacturers have made real leaps and bounds when it comes to the leads of running rigging to ensure it all runs smoothly and is placed in precisely the right spot for short handing. If I had one minor niggle it was that the helm felt a little stiffer than I expected.

Under power, the yacht behaved well and there was plenty of grip from the deep keel. Marry that with bow thrusters and you could turn the yacht on a sixpence and ease her into a tricky berth with the minimum of fuss.

Sailing Today Magazine review of Beneteau, Oceanis 51.1

Sam’s verdict

The Oceanis 51.1 left me pleasantly surprised. I often come away from yachts from the ‘big four’ manufacturers – Beneteau, Jeanneau, Hanse and Bavaria – impressed with the sheer competence of them, but sometimes struggling to differentiate one from the other. That wasn’t the case with the 51.1; she had an individuality to her that genuinely made an impression on me.

The champagne glass forward sections seemed to simply provide her with masses of increased volume, yet she remained slippery in light airs. I would have loved to see how she performed pounding into a heavy head sea but in the conditions we did get she was excellent, and once you get your head around the ‘First’ ‘Easy’ and ‘Comfort’ options they do actually keep things nice and simple and make this a massively versatile yacht. Likewise, the interior feels far less bland than many of her predecessors and contemporaries and I found it a genuinely pleasant and incredibly roomy space to be in.

What also left me impressed is that Beneteau is using its financial muscle to try to push the boundaries and that is good news for consumers.

Sailing Today Magazine review of Beneteau, Oceanis 51.1

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Coach-roof vs Companionway Mainsheet traveler location—which is best for single-handing?

  • Thread starter GregL564
  • Start date Feb 26, 2017
  • Forums for All Owners
  • Ask All Sailors

Folks, When single-handing a boat say, 27’-33’, how much more difficult is it when the mainsheet traveler is across the coach-roof, rather than the companionway? I’m thinking about the next boat, and I often single-hand, so wondering if mainsheet traveler location should be a criterion. Or whether other things (i.e. autopilot, mainsheet led back to the edge of the coachroof) offset any disadvantages of having the mainsheet traveler farther away from the helmsman. Thoughts? Best, Greg  

Michael Davis

Michael Davis

I've always preferred a traveller on the coach roof. However our last boat had it on the companion way and was tiller steered. Very convenient for single handing but I always felt it was in the way. With a wheel I think it would be better on a Samson Post or a traveller in front of the wheel (again in the way). A good autopilot will make any arrangement work better.  

Stu Jackson

Stu Jackson

Michael Davis said: A good autopilot will make any arrangement work better. Click to expand

FastOlson

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

Michael, I am working on this process. I have the traveler set in the seat in front of the companion way. Single handed I move in front of the wheel to make adjustments. Just converted the 2-1 rig to a 6-1 system. 6-1 is untested, but should address the issues I had with handling the sail in 20knt winds. The location while not perfect is convenient (can grab the main-sheet as a hand hold getting out of the cabin). It keeps the boom attachments near the end of the boom improving Main sail management and reducing the strain that coach top rigs put on the boom attachment points. Companion way traveler does impact the type and size of a dodger you can put on the boat. Also need to consider the size of the cockpit. Mine is considered spacious by friends. Room for 4 people with out kicking each other. My friends cockpit is small, stand on seats to get past wheel. Room for 2 or 3 if racing and everyone is agile, getting to the winch while the main needs attention can cause conflicts. So you have size, desired coverings (dodger), spacing of winches, and type of traveler all influencing the issues of location. All of which leads to compromise. The nature of a sail boat.  

Bill Roosa

What you want is kinda a non starter. The geometry of the sheet and boom connection determines where the travler ends up. If the boom can sustain a mid boom load then it can be more forward. If it was engineered for an end boom connection you are kinda stuck with where the boom ends. if you are asking which "kind" of boat you should buy I'd go for a coach roof traveler. The companionway location is always in the way even if you use the AP all the time.  

weinie

any traveler or sheet you can reach without leaving the helm is a plus.  

Jackdaw

For most people, what they have now is best. And thats what they will rightly say is best. However. If you look at at boats DESIGNED for single handing: 1) They will have boom-end sheeting brought down to a boat width traveler 2) Be tiller steered. 3) Have a non-overlapping (jib) fractional rig This is not a discussion point. They are all now like this. The closer they are to the hand of someone who might be helming, the better. This allows one person to control the boat sitting in place, on the high side. On hand on the tiller, one hand on the mainsheet or traveler. High side because weight is important when there is not a lot of it on the boat. As other note, most of this time the boat will be steering its self. Nobody self-steers while single handed for very long. But even then, if you are actively trimmming or resting, you want to be on the high side. Every existing boat is diffferent, so you have to approach this sensibly with regard to modifications. But thats the ideal setup.  

JS writes compromise is the nature of a sailboat. I think that means you get the one that makes you happiest and live with the things you don't like!  

GorillaToast

GorillaToast

yacht coachroof

GorillaToast said: I moved mine to the companionway for ease of use while singlehanding. The control lines are easily within reach on the cockpit seats. The only complaint is from my dog who hasn't yet figured out how to go over it to get down the steps so she has to squeeze under. View attachment 133562 Click to expand

rgranger

Jackdaw said: The way God intended man to single-hand. ;^) View attachment 133563 Click to expand
rgranger said: I'll give you Saint Brendan but if it had been God you would have a beer in one hand and a cigar in the other. I would have added a babe on your lab but then you wouldn't be single handing ..... (I had to work real hard for that one ) Click to expand

cb32863

Jackdaw said: See that Blue Performance sheet bag by my knee? Ask @cb32863 what thats really for. And yes, Jodi counts as double handing! Click to expand
Jackdaw said: For most people, what they have now is best. And thats what they will rightly say is best. However. If you look at at boats DESIGNED for single handing: 1) They will have boom-end sheeting brought down to a boat width traveler 2) Be tiller steered. 3) Have a non-overlapping (jib) fractional rig This is not a discussion point. They are all now like this. The closer they are to the hand of someone who might be helming, the better. This allows one person to control the boat sitting in place, on the high side. On hand on the tiller, one hand on the mainsheet or traveler. High side because weight is important when there is not a lot of it on the boat. As other note, most of this time the boat will be steering its self. Nobody self-steers while single handed for very long. But even then, if you are actively trimmming or resting, you want to be on the high side. Every existing boat is diffferent, so you have to approach this sensibly with regard to modifications. But thats the ideal setup. Click to expand
weinie said: I think you are 100% correct, but keep in mind that some modern boats have certain have things like twin wheels and german mainsheeting, not to mention the elimination of the traveler which allow a helmsman to sail pretty darn well without running around the cockpit like a banshee. This seems to be a general trend among some of the European cruising boat builders who understand having a dedicated crew is often hard to get. Click to expand

583bafb07f2914d9a3873385488aae4b.jpg

@Jackdaw Is non-overlapping just for ease of tacking? Or am I missing something else about sail trim? You have mentioned that a few times and I was not following. Occasionally my genoa sheets will snag something on the way around but most of the time it is not an issue so I would not count non-overlapping as a big solo-sailing plus.  

rgranger said: @Jackdaw Is non-overlapping just for ease of tacking? Or am I missing something else about sail trim? You have mentioned that a few times and I was not following. Occasionally my genoa sheets will snag something on the way around but most of the time it is not an issue so I would not count non-overlapping as a big solo-sailing plus. Click to expand
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yacht coachroof

The SW105 yacht is a high-performance cruiser with exceptional sea-keeping characteristics. It provides all the comforts of a modern superyacht, while also excelling on coastal or bluewater race courses. The yacht is the result of the long-standing collaboration between SWS, Nauta Design and Farr Yacht Design. The aim of the yacht designers when conceiving the SW105 yacht project was to incorporate a modicum of race boat features into a cruiser racer while keeping a beautiful aesthetic and a high level of comfort.

SW105’s naval architecture has been conceived to host three different keel configurations (fixed, telescopic, lifting) to satisfy the requirements of different owners. The displacement to yacht length ratio has been optimised for top performance. SW105 features generously wide aft sections and an open transom which ensure an ample deck area and abundant interior volumes. These elements are a real plus for any performance cruiser. The modern design of SW105 emerges strongly on the single level deck: on top of comfortable and safe passage, this layout creates a continuous line from stern to coachroof that makes the yacht look longer and sleeker.

Thanks to the different deck layout options the yacht can feature either a Raised Saloon, a Deck Saloon or a GT configuration.

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SW105 Wolfhound >

First unit of the SW105 high performance cruiser miniseries, this elegant sailing superyacht features the latest in design and technology and is one of most comfortable and reputable fast cruising yachts on the charter market.

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SW105 Kiboko Tres >

Second in the 105 miniseries, she was commissioned by a loyal Southern Wind owner who had already built two other yachts with us. He was looking for a high-performance yacht for racing and cruising with his family and friends.

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SW105 Power of Two >

The SW105 POWER OF 2 yacht is third unit of this series and was commissioned by a keen sailor who was looking for an ocean-going yacht for sailing the world and exploring very remote locations in comfort and total safety.

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SW105 GT Taniwha >

Launched in April 2021, Taniwha is the fourth hull in our SW105 GT mini series. Just like a Gran Turismo car, this elegant, fast bluewater sailboat is designed for speed across long distances.

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The fifth SW105 is currently under construction and will be delivered in early 2022. Distinct, Refined and Essential are the pillars of the owner’s way of thinking, a philosophy that will pervade his yacht in every single detail.

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The first model in the miniseries, the SW105 yacht series was SATISFACTION, now Wolfhound, comes in a Raised Saloon configuration. Thanks to it, this 34m performance cruiser benefits from uncluttered sightlines blending with a sleek high-ceilinged coachroof, which floods the interior with light through panoramic windows and hull portlights. SW105 Wolfhound hosts a telescopic keel configuration. The stunning SW105 KIBOKO TRES, again a Raised Saloon, features a Full carbon hull, deck and bulkheads, a fixed keel and a larger sail plan, making her enjoyable even during superyacht regattas.

Both of the SW105 yacht’s configurations feature a light, bright and open main saloon. Eight to ten people can relax and converse in comfort on couches or at the dining table. Immediately fore of the living area, a wide studio, TV or Bar area flawlessly separates the main saloon from the owner’s private area. The interior features an owner’s cabin and three comfortable guest cabins. The crew area is an efficient working environment for five and includes a spacious galley, a nav station and three crew cabins. THE POWER OF 2 is the third unit in the SW105 yacht mini-series. The owner chose a deck saloon configuration with a protected guest cockpit and an ample deckhouse where guests are surrounded by sea views from the panoramic 270° windows. She hosts a lifting keel configuration making here enjoyable in shallow waters.

“The last in the miniseries is the SW105#04. The yacht will have a completely new deck layout, carefully conceived by Nauta Design to meet the owner’s brief. The yacht will stand out for the sleek and sexy lines of her carbon coachroof. Compared to SW105 DS and RS versions, this new GT version has a wider cockpit area on a single level.”

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Coachroof mounted mainsheet and Single handing

  • Thread starter davidwf
  • Start date 24 Oct 2009
  • 24 Oct 2009

davidwf

Active member

Been looking a boat with a coachroof mounted mainsheet. I've always had a cockpit mounted main that was easy to get at should the boat start to broach. Boat has a wheel so I'll be stuck behind that as well. I see plenty of single handers sailing with this mainsheet arrangement so I'm guessing it must be OK, but thought I'd ask how do others cope with this arrangement?  

Billjratt

What's the question? A forward-sheeted boom places more stress on the bits it's attached to, but the tail comes back to wherever you want it...= anywhere on the boat. "Stuck behind the wheel" sounds like a lot of boats I've seen and wouldn't buy - it's a trade between 'sitting out in the elements and being in charge of all you see', and a more sheltered and comfortable place, but less aware of the 'wind on the back of your neck'. So we're back to horses for courses -sailing 'in the groove' and pointing higher than the boat beside you, or just sailing reasonably well and getting a bit of pleasure.  

webcraft

Well-known member

Aft sheeted is probably easier . I like a boat where I can reach all the controls from the helm. On a wheel steered boat this means a small wheel you are not stuck behind, a main sheeted (usually) aft of the wheel and genoa winches that can be reached from the helming position. Coachroof sheeted mains are often found on the type of boat that is more likely to broach anyway. It is usually a 'comfort over performance' design feature. - W  

Deleted member 36384

Assumption: You have multi use halyard winches mounted behind jammers on the coach roof. If the halyard winch is on the mast ignore this suggestion. Mount a cam cleat just behind the jammer. Once the correct halyard tension is set, empty the winch as normal. Place the halyard into the cam cleat and open up the main halyard jammer. Have the tail of the halyard near to your helm position. A quick flick up should allow the halyard to be dumped. You could do this with the kicker as well allowing the boom to sky in the case of a leeward broach.  

Bav34

saltwater_gypsy

If you are really going to sail singlehanded then you will have to plan the mainsheet layout with great care. This harken datasheet shows all the main types http://www.harken.com/rigtips/mainsheet.php  

Bav34 said: I've had the four basic track arrangements: 1. Across the companionway ... easy to 'snap' the mainsheet off but potentially dangerous for crew accessing the cabin. 2. Across the cockpit ... best for sail control but always in the way. 3. Behind the tiller ... easy access but can take your head off in a gybe 4. Mounted on the coachroof. This is by far my favoured location as it keeps the cockpit clear and is the safest. We have self-tailing winches behind the jammers. In my first season, if I though there was a risk of a broach I released the jammer and held the sheet tension on the self-tailer. It would have been easy to whip that off the winch had it been necessary, but it never was. To be honest if you are single handed in possible broach conditions a reef woul be the answer ... if the wind is that strong you'll probably be going just as fast. Standing by to be flamed as usual Click to expand...
Bav34 said: 1. Across the companionway ... easy to 'snap' the mainsheet off but potentially dangerous for crew accessing the cabin. Click to expand...

LadyInBed

davidwf said: . . . should the boat start to broach. I see plenty of single handers sailing with this main sheet arrangement Click to expand...
  • 25 Oct 2009

Neil_Y

As Fireball and Lady in B have said, I had this on a Bav, no problem. Downwind I used twin headsails and no main, upwind if over powered (first you reef) but with a good AH, you set steer to wind and angle and can sit in front of the weheel and play the main if you want to push the boat harder. Most of the time if you are anywhere near dumping any sails you've got too much up. You stop/heave to and re asses. Often the boat is the more important choice than the rigging set up.  

Many thanks for the replies from the single handers it's reassured me that ths arrangement will be OK, I have mostly sailed single handed for the past 20 years so yes I do know when to reef and yes I do use the AP a lot, although a Wheel AP is a lot easier to flick on than faffing about aligning the pin on my current tiller pilot. Looking at the arrangement I reckon I can fit a spinlock cleat after the clutch or perhaps use it instead of the clutch and then if I need to winch I can winch through it and then release the sheet off the winch so I can flick the main up to release if I want to. However I doubt I will need to winch the main much if I have correct amount of sail set. Current boat is great but whilst I can reach the main from helm I struggle to adjust the headsail whilst still being able to hang onto the tiller as the winch's for that are on the coach roof. As usual life is full of compromises. Sorry if I have opened up the debate on where its best to keep a main sheet that was not the purpose of the post.  

I have been considering the same issue for my next boat. At present my mainsheet is just forward of the wheel so I can reach round to it easily if SWMBO is below etc. and find this overall very good from all aspects except it gets in the way when dining anchor. Discussing this with some friends who have a Sweden yacht they showed me how their track is on the coach roof and sheet seems to come down on coachroof but actually the tails (yes tails) come down each side of the cockpit to a winch each side. So helmsman can easily adjust without moving and the cockpit is completely free of mainsheet. Looking round at the Boatshow recently and discussing it with various yacht makers a few said this was an option on their boats (at some extra cost) and was called the German sheeting system. It also seems it could be retrofitted to many boats. Looked very good to me!  

fishermantwo

fishermantwo

I sail my quarter tonner singlehanded all the time. Tiller thats nice and long so I can steer with my butt tacking etc. Main sheet is on the cabin top. When I am standing its about shoulder height, very awkward angle to pull and inefficient. Its about half way along the boom so the whole unit is rigged to disadvantage. If you are pulling in the mainsheet by hand then you have to be pulling up, therefore the best position is either across rear of cockpit, across centre of cockpit or across bridge deck. I always like the mainsheet in front of me so the absolute best is across the centre of the cockpit, it certainly will be on my next boat.  

  • 26 Oct 2009
davidwf said: Been looking a boat with a coachroof mounted mainsheet. I've always had a cockpit mounted main that was easy to get at should the boat start to broach. Boat has a wheel so I'll be stuck behind that as well. I see plenty of single handers sailing with this mainsheet arrangement so I'm guessing it must be OK, but thought I'd ask how do others cope with this arrangement? Click to expand...
haydude said: I have such an arrangement which is what can be found on 34+ft size cruiser yachts. Mine is 36ft and I sail single handed most of the time, even with family and friends I am often the only one competent on board. I hardly ever stay at the wheel, actually I find it quite tedious, unless conditions are challenging. Autopilot: that is the answer. I even let the autopilot to tack, and I take care of the sheets. It would be impossible otherwise. When it comes to gybing the autopilot does not do it (my Raymarine at least doesn't), but again that can be done, by sheeting in the main first, 5-6 clicks on the +/-10 degrees button and taking care of the genoa sheets. Easy! Click to expand...

I sail my 43 footer AWB pretty much signlehanded with this coachroof arrangement for the mainsheet, halyards etc...., everything except jib sheets. No problems so far, including F7's etc...... This arrangement would be my preference.  

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NORFOLK STAR at sail

The must-see sailing yachts at the Monaco Yacht Show 2024

As the excitement for the Monaco Yacht Show 2024 builds, BOAT takes a look at the top sailing yachts that will be making an appearance this year – from the latest launches to the finest yachts currently for sale .

Norfolk Star

Builder: Perini Navi Year: 1996 (2020) Length: 37m

Pedigree sailing yacht Norfolk Star was designed and built by the Italian shipyard in 1996 and had a "multi-million euro refit" in 2022, according to her broker. The revamp included a new main engine room, two new generators, PLC system, Inmarsat VSAT dome, 505 Williams tender, Doyle sails and Reckmann rigging. With accommodation for six guests, the yacht boasts a family-friendly layout comprising a full-beam master cabin on the lower deck along with two twin cabins – with the option of an additional pullman berth. 

On deck, guests can benefit from the comfort the split cockpit area affords, where relaxed seating around a circular coffee table awaits as well as a dining area for eight.  The cherry wood interior also welcomes a bright upper saloon with panoramic views and a more formal main saloon with two sofas and dining area featuring an extendable walnut table.

Norfolk Star is listed for sale and will be exhibited by Burgess and Northrop & Johnson.

Builder: Wally Year: 2024 Length: 36.2m

Having hit the water in June this year, the first wallywind110, Galma , will make her global debut at this year's Monaco Yacht Show and is recognisable by her "luminous light metallic blue" carbon hull paint job "that changes slightly as the light hits her". The sailing yacht's naval architecture comes from German studio judel/vrolijk & co , while interior and exterior lines are designed by Wally in collaboration with Santa Maria Magnolfi . The design demonstrates the comfort of a cruising yacht while maintaining the spirit and performance of a racing boat, and is characterised by her 6.9-metre telescopic keel. 

Highlights include an 80-square-metre full-beam cockpit with seating and dining for up to 15 people, as well as an open-plan raised saloon. The yacht also benefits from natural light thanks to a skylight that runs the full length of the coachroof. Accommodation on the wallywind100 model can be a three-cabin layout with a full-beam master suite, or a four-cabin standard layout.

Galma will be exhibited by Wally .

Builder: Vitters Year: 2017 Length: 32.6m

Delivered in 2017 to experienced sailing yacht owners, Ribelle has recently joined the market following a refit, which included a repaint of the hull, mast and boom, and a brand new suit of cruising sails. The sailing yacht is built of carbon fibre by the Dutch yard to a design by Malcolm McKeon and can be sailing with a small crew in cruising mode or, thanks to a self-tacking jib, can be transformed into a true racer. 

She is a regatta regular and can often be spotted at some of the world's most prestigious events – including the Maxi Rolex Cup, Giorgio Armani Superyacht Regatta, Les Voiles de St Tropez and Palma Superyacht Cup. Her Rémi Tessier interior accommodates six guests in three cabins comprising a master suite, VIP suite and a twin cabin.

Ribelle is listed for sale and will be exhibited by Burgess.

Dreamcatcher

Builder: Nautor Swan Year: 2024 Length: 28.8m

With her diesel-electric propulsion, the Swan 88 is the Finnish shipyard's first hybrid sailing yacht and is based on an evolution of its previous yachts. Sitting at the entry point to the world of maxi yachting, the yacht was delivered earlier this year and will make her worldwide debut at the Cannes Yachting Festival .

Dreamcatcher has been described as a "no-compromise cruiser with a racer soul" with a draught of four metres, with options for a shallow-draught, telescopic and performance keel. The yacht is also designed for comfort with a maximum heeling angle of 20 degrees and sports "feminine exterior lines" penned by veteran Swan designer German Frers . Her warm, classic interiors have been styled by Misa Poggi with accommodation for 10 guests.

Dreamcatcher will be exhibited by Nautor Swan .

Builder: Baltic Yachts Year: 2018 Length: 26m

Delivered by the Finnish shipyard in 2018, Mini Y is a Baltic 85 model designed by UK naval architect Dixon Yacht Design . Her silver hull and superstructure were built of carbon-fibre composite and the owner opted for a telescopic lifting keel that can reduce the draft from 4.3 metres to 2.95 metres when required. Mark Whiteley Design handled the  yacht's interior décor , with accommodation for up to four guests split between an owner’s cabin and a guest cabin.

On deck, the cockpit has a fold-out table for guests to enjoy, while the helmsman has the choice of two wheels. The guest cockpit can be completely covered for protection while racing, the navigation instruments still visible on the aft face. Mini Y joined the market earlier this year.

Mini Y is listed for sale and will be exhibited by Baltic Yachts and Edmiston.

Builder: Yonca Year: 2019 (2023) Length: 26.8m

Tuzla-based shipyard Yonca officially entered the leisure marine market with the launch of Mishi Yachts earlier this year. The new brand made its debut with two sailing models, measuring 26.8 metres and 31 metres – the first of which is the Mishi 88, which will be on exhibit at the Monaco Yacht Show 2024. Osman Tanju Kalaycıoğlu , Özgür Terzioğlu and Taka Yacht are responsible for the naval architectecture and exterior design, while interiors are the work of Aylin Örs .

The sloop's defining features include a spacious aft deck with a dining space which can comfortably seat ten guests. Offering shelter from the elements, the large cockpit features a carbon composite hard-top aft, while the swim platform has enough room in its back for a 3.5-meter inflatable tender. Accommodation is for six guests across a master cabin and two guest cabins, with further space for the captain and crew.

Mishi 88 will be exhibited by Mishi Yachts.

Builder: Yyachts Year: 2024 Length: 23.9m

German yachtbuilder YYachts is bringing its Y8 model to the Monaco Yacht Show. Javier Jaudenes of Surge-Projects worked alongside the in-house design team on naval architecture to create the model's new silhouette with a Scandi-inspired interior by Danish designer David Thulstrup. YYachts offers four pre-designed interior styles where owners can tailor the saloon area to their tastes. 

A particular highlight is the owner's suite, which includes a separate saloon and can be located either in the bow or in the stern with direct access to the cockpit. In terms of technical details, the Y8 features a standard carbon mast, hydraulic main sheet system and all winches close to the helm stations. These features, along with the self-tacking jib and a lack of a backstay, enhance the yacht's performance and ease of handling.

Y8 will be exhibited by Yyachts.

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