scamp sailboat junk rig

Small Craft Advisor

scamp sailboat junk rig

Boat Designs: Evaluating SCAMP’S Big Sister

(this new welsford cruiser checks a lot of boxes…).

scamp sailboat junk rig

Over the past few days I’ve had email exchanges with John Welsford, New Zealand designer, regarding a brainstorm that’s been percolating in his clever, whimsical noggin: A bigger, more commodious takeoff on his wildly popular SCAMP design.

As most SCA readers know, the 11’ 11” SCAMP design was conceived 13 years ago when Josh Colvin, editor of this fine publication, asked Welsford to come up with a new kind of small cruising boat—one small enough to explore the most hard-to-penetrate backwaters, while being easy to rig, light enough to trailer with the smallest of tow vehicles, surprisingly great under sail, and comfy for overnight camp-cruising adventures. So, following some tweaks by designer and master boatbuilder Kees Prins, the resulting sailboat was dubbed SCAMP, for Small Craft Advisor Magazine Project.

SCAMP DRAWING…

scamp sailboat junk rig

The rest is history: More building plans and kits for SCAMP have been sold over the years than any other small cruising boat we can think of. Besides the original wooden version, Gig Harbor Boat Works was licensed in 2013 to produce a fiberglass SCAMP, and the little giant killer—in wood and fiberglass—has since its debut been at the center of various small-boat rallies, workshops and sailing events.

While SCAMPs are still being built worldwide by enthusiasts, plan and kit sales have slowly been approaching what might be a kind of saturation point. It’s not that “everyone who wants a SCAMP has already built one,” but we get the feeling that it’s time for something new and different—like a SCAMP-inspired design that has the personality and quirky appeal of the original boat, but with more creature comforts (for an aging population of SCAMP lovers).

Meet SCALLYWAG, John Welsford’s big sister to SCAMP, a 15’ 4” x 7’ 3” wonder with a “real” cabin, tabernacle mast, mizzen sail, powerful main, water-ballast tanks, sitting headroom down below…and like SCAMP, faster than many onlookers might expect.

SCALLYWAG DRAWING…

scamp sailboat junk rig

This might turn out to be a timely, common-sense follow-up to the successful SCAMP design—so tempting that John Welsford is talking about building one for himself.

(As a footnote, we might add that in 2008, prior to the introduction of SCAMP in 2010, Welsford came up with another design that was similar to but somewhat larger than SCAMP—called TREAD LIGHTLY, which measured 13’ overall, with a beam of 5’ and addition of a mizzen. The series of similar hulls began with PEANUTS, an experimental build that never quite made the plans list. That design led to TENDER BEHIND, then SHERPA, then TREAD LIGHTLY, then SCAMP, then SCRAPS and now SCALLYWAG. Quite a series!)

TREAD LIGHTLY drawing…immediate predecessor to SCAMP)

scamp sailboat junk rig

Here is John Welsford’s description of the SCALLYWAG design:

“I’ve had a number of people tell me they love SCAMP, but they’d like a ‘real’ cabin—something that would provide shelter for a couple of friends to overnight out of the rain; somewhere with space enough for four to sit and chat over coffee or rum on a cold evening; somewhere with a bench for a cooker, a table to eat the food off of, and lockers for all the essentials…and room for the skipper and first mate to stretch out and sleep in comfort.

“SCALLYWAG is not so big as to make launching and retrieving a chore; her mainmast is in a tabernacle, which makes standing it up easy-peasy for clients who don’t like the idea of lifting a mast that size vertically into place. Her mizzen is light enough to not be a worry, too, in that respect.

“The rig is a powerful one, but easy to access for reefing, and she will heave to under mizzen with the main let free so she sits mostly head-to-wind, dry and restful if a gust has to be waited out.

“I’ve added a pair of big water tanks for ballast, so with that and her beamy shape she’ll be very stable. Her cockpit self-drains, the motor is inside the tall transom for easy access, and while there’s room in the cockpit for four, she’ll be easy to single-hand and relaxing to sail.

“While the relationship between SCALLYWAG and SCAMP is obvious, it’s not just the styling. The backroom calculations in hydrodynamics suggest she’ll handle well, and be faster than many expect. With high stability and the ability to sit upright when aground, she’ll be able to transition from hiding in the mud or sand up a creek somewhere, to making a longer coastal passage without any fuss.

“Construction is simply plywood over ply bulkheads, with stringers to line everything up, and with considerable buoyancy just in case. The plans will have scale drawings of all major components, and we anticipate soon having printable full-sized templates for frames and other key items.”

As for specifications, beyond the overall length of 15’ 4” and beam of 7’ 3,” SCALLYWAG will have board-up draft of 10,” a board-down draft of 3’ 4,” a total sail area of 143 s.f. and a fully-rigged dry weight of 750 lbs. (Incidentally, the beam-to-length ratios of SCAMP and SCALLYWAG are almost identical.)

John Welsford says that plans for SCALLYWAG will be available on December 1, but he can take orders in the meantime. Price will be $245 U.S. funds for emailed, printable PDFs, and the plans can be ordered via John’s website: jwboatdesigns.co.nz (Joel Bergen, well-known for the Welsford Navigator he built and sails in many Northwest small-boat events, will be developing a set of SCALLYWAG patterns in the not-distant future, according to Welsford. Editor’s note: We heard from Joel yesterday; he’s hoping to develop CAD-produced patterns “in a few weeks,” now that he’s received initial SCALLYWAG drawings. Stay tuned; we’ll provide updates on plans and patterns in this space.)

FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF THE SCALLYWAG DESIGN:

Eager to hear what SCAMP-savvy friends might have to say about the SCALLYWAG specs and just-released drawing, we sought initial reactions from…

JOSH COLVIN, editor of Small Craft Advisor , who commissioned the SCAMP design in 2010 and enjoys sailing SCAMP #1:

“There’s certainly no doubt who designed this one! It looks almost as much like Welsford’s PENGUIN as a SCAMP. SCALLYWAG’s length is a sweet spot in terms of accommodations potential. She’ll be rowed less than most SCAMPs, but I love the inboard motor well to keep her lines clean, and the engine right at hand. But her most exciting feature is the addition of the mizzen, which will improve seaworthiness and make managing the mainsail easier.

“Between LONG STEPS and SCALLYWAG, those looking for something like SCAMP, but larger, have great options. I’m excited to see the first boat built—she will be bigger than most expect, just looking at the drawing.” SIMEON BALDWIN, builder of an early SCAMP who has perhaps sailed more nautical miles with a SCAMP than anyone…and who has also served as a generous advisor to fellow SCAMP builders and is an expert on rigging and sailing the little 11’ 11” boats:

“I like what I see of this long-rumored design. Knowing John and his attention to ergonomics, I can anticipate it will work well. The tabernacled mast and addition of a mizzen are most appealing.

“From the drawing I think it may resemble LONG STEPS in terms of the recessed footwell. It also appears he is eschewing a by-design lazarette made popular by many SCAMP owners.

“The double water tanks are something to contemplate. I don’t envision SCALLYWAG as a purpose-built racer with crew, actively keeping high-side ballast on long tacks, like the SKATE 15 that Brandon Davis designed, which utilizes two tanks and a dump-valve system that may be more elaborate than a typical cruising sailor would want to live with. But John may be describing two water tanks that are filled and remain separate from one another.”

(Editor’s note: Welsford’s comment on tanks, “The ballast tanks are linked, and they’re not far enough off the centerline to work independently. There is one each side of the aft end of the centerboard case and they go out as far as the seat-front extensions.”)

“I’m looking forward to how all of this works out!”

BRANDON DAVIS, of Turn Point Design in Port Townsend, whose company cuts CNC kits for the SCAMP and a variety of other small boats. Brandon is also a skilled designer and small-boat sailor:

“I really like this boat, since it has just enough room to have a cabin but it’s still small enough to be trailered, beached and easily built in a garage. The enclosed cabin should encourage longer trips or taking a friend along.

“The longer waterline should increase average sailing speeds. My guess is that rowing speed will be lower than the SCAMP, as the rower will not be able to take advantage of the waterline length because of her weight.

“Will SCALLYWAG be offered as a kit? I could see it selling well as a kit and the market could be ripe. Many SCAMP builders might consider this as their next build.

“I look forward to seeing the first SCALLYWAGs on the water!”

KEES PRINS, designer and boatbuilder, who constructed the first SCAMP while serving as boatshop manager at the Northwest Maritime Center…and in the process suggested and implemented some changes that improved the design:

“I think SCALLYWAG will find a great following in the SCAMP world and beyond. Adding a cabin will greatly enlarge the ‘SCAMP Crowd.’ At that beam, and with twin ballast tanks, stability should be enormous for a boat this length. I would have liked to see a cross section through the cabin to know more about sitting comfort. (Four people hanging out inside seems a little optimistic, but two should be comfortable.)

“I’m curious about what the tabernacle for the unsupported mast will look like. A big sail area, together with a stiff hull will induce a significant load on the tabernacle. There seems to be a deep well for the mast base to swing through, judging by the drain hole.

“All in all, SCALLYWAG looks very promising.”

OSCAR LIND, a serious student of all various small-boat designs , and earlier builder of a SCAMP, who shares at least one thing in common with John Welsford—they’ve never met a pun they didn’t like:

“I might have to clear out the shop and make as much room as possible to build this boat (due to the 7’ 3” beam, especially). It’s so tempting and fills the bill for usability and function.

“It does need a Chinese lug rig, though. I expect quite a few SCALLYWAGS will ultimately be built.”

(Editor’s note: John Welsford comments, “I like the Chinese lugsail, but for a sail of this size on a boat that will be trailered, rigged and derigged for each outing and dry-stored, the extra complexity of the Junk sail slows the process. As well, the balanced lug is in my experience, a little quicker upwind—unless the junk rig has cambered-panel sails, and there are few sailmakers producing those, so I think in this case, simplicity and performance get the nod.”)

As for my personal view as a serial boatbuilder, restorer and sometimes buyer of project boats, I enjoyed owning a SCAMP several years ago. While I loved sailing the boat, I wished it was bigger and included a sleeping cabin. So, John’s new SCALLYWAG design checks many more boxes as an all-around keeper, and I prefer its overall hull, cabin and rig design, not to mention its potential as a serious cruising machine.

So, once again, here’s a chance for you, as a fellow boat nut, to offer your evaluation of SCAMP and her newly-hatched big sister, SCALLYWAG. (Also, please add other thoughts in the comments section below…) • SCA •

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scamp sailboat junk rig

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The Tasman is a multi-chine plywood yacht designed for long distance sailing for 2 crew, which uses an egg-box frame system of plywood fore and aft girders slotted together with plywood bulkheads - once stringers have been fitted, the ply hull panels are then applied making construction quite simple.

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Steps in Building a SCAMP sailboat

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Link to Part 2 of Rigging

Rigging a scamp sailboat part1.

Part 1, Sail, Reefing, Downhaul, Outhaul

WARNING: The following article is a description of how I rigged my SCAMP. There is only incomplete information on the details of SCAMP rigging on the INTERNET and in the manual, and what I am presenting here is what I did. I'm not an expert. I've had my boat out a few times now and I have not found any great problem with the set up I'm using. I'm sure there are lots of improvements possible, but, this is working and seems to be safe. Take it as a place to start and improve what you find lacking. There are many right ways of rigging your SCAMP so be prepared for many arguments. This is offered as a good place to start. Maybe, just maybe, it's perfect and can't be improved on. (I wish!)

As I re-read this page I can see that it is confusing. It's a work in progress and I'll improve on it. I've been sick and have not had a lot of energy to improve my website.

There are many separate 'Systems' that add up to the completed rigging.

It's useful to think of the RIGGING as a collection of separate sub units. They affect each other of course but mostly function independently. This lists them in no particular order. I've included some topics that are not strictly rigging such as cleats, row locks and Safety. I'll include them in part 2.

  • Positioning and Attaching the sail to the Boom and Yard
  • Deck Fittings for Halyard and Downhaul
  • Centre Board
  • Cleats and Row Locks

Setting up the SAIL

The balanced lug sail, is four sided. that is attached to the boom fore and aft, and laced onto the yard. The yard is then attached to the halyard which raises it to the top of the mast, and the boom is attached to the downhaul which is attached to the cuddy roof at the bottom.

The downhaul is very important. It allows the sail to be tightened so that the leading edge, the part of the sail at the front, can be tightened to maintain proper shape of the sail.

Lacing the sail on

You need a bit of space to do this. Find yourself a nice lawn, or clean gym, or large living room. Lay your yard and boom down and spread out your sail in between.

Your yard will be thicker at one end than at the other. The thinner side goes towards the higher point of the sail, the PEAK in official sail talk. If your yard is much longer than your sail don't allow too much material at the lower end otherwise it will rub against the boom when you reef to the smallest area of sail.

You will need some line to lace your sail. Paracord works, or any reasonable line 3/16 - 1/4 inch. My sail came with a goodly supply.

Go ahead and tie your line to the throat grommet (the upper corner opposite the peak) and to the yard, this could be a few inches from the end. Link your knot to the hole you made in the yard so the sail doesn't slide along the yard.

I used a bowline on the grommet then used clove hitches and half hitches to attach the sail. You should now have one corner of the sail attached to the yard and to the hole. You can now lace the sail so that there is not a large gap between sail and yard but it is not pulled too tight.

clove hitch

In reality, the knots will likely look a bit messier than the diagrams but don't fret about that. When you reach the peak, tie your sail to the yard and through the hole on the yard. At this point the top of the sail should be secure to the yard and not able to slide one way or another. Leave yourself a bit of extra line so that if you decide to change your knots or lacing you have enough line. Once you are sure, then cut the lines and finish them either by melting or by binding the end.

There are a great many ways of lacing a sail onto spars. Mr. Google can come up with quite a list. There are arguments raging about the benefits of various variations. Don't fret, the simple lacing works very well. Below is my yard lacing. I did a slightly more attractive, to my eyes, lacing. There is quite a lot of extra length of my yard. I left as much as I could on the lower end to avoid putting more weight up high but the lower end was rubbing against the boom when the sail was reefed so I had to adjust. I also adjusted the slight fold you can see in the sail.

lacing sail

The boom is much simpler, the sail is not laced but only tied to the ends, the clew (under the peak above) and the tack. For the time being center the sail on the boom. If it needs to shift it's not hard to do as required.

The clew in the lower forward corner should be tied securely to the hole you have made in your boom using a strong piece of line. I used the same line I used to lace the sail but doubled it up. The tack is kept temporarily loose because it will be connected to an outhaul. The outhaul tensions the bottom of the sail and can be loosened or tightened as required to make the sail more or less flat. Until you have set up the outhaul, just tie the line to the boom through the back hole.

The sail is now attached to the yard on top and the boom below. You still have to sort out the outhaul.

Note that my holes on the ends of the boom are close to the ends. I should have left a bit more space between the end and the hole but because I misread the plans I ended up with a short boom that had to be re done. Because of Covid I had trouble getting suitable material so I used material I had, which ended up just a bit short. Hopefully your boom is longer than mine by a few inches.

sail

At this stage you should have a sail, laced on to the yard with the thinner end of the yard at the peak of the sail, and tied to the boom permanently at the fore end and temporarily at the aft end, waiting to have the outhaul installed.

I found it useful to label FORE AND AFT temporarily with tape. Saves having to figure it out every time.

Setting up the OUTHAUL

The purpose of the outhaul is to tighten or loosen the foot of the sail. It has to be convenient and easy. There are any number of ways this can be set up.

lacing sail

My outhaul consists of a short aluminium track screwed onto the top of the boom. There is a plastic slider that fits in the track. It is attached on the right to the corner of the sail,using a small shackle, and to the left on a line that goes to a small block lashed to the boom.

Disregard the fairlead and line in the first photo, this is part of the reefing system we will see later.

The block turns and guides the line around to a fairlead and a cam cleat bolted to the far side of the boom about 3-4 feet from the end so that the cam cleat would be at a convenient spot to reach in the cockpit. I have cut the ends of the bolts and sanded everything so it is smooth and does not catch or scratch.

I have a stop knot on the end of the outhaul line so it stays in the fairlead. The knot also makes it easier to pull the line. The line is 3/16 and is very strong. I bought 3 short length of a spectra blend, 2 for the rudder and one for the outhaul.

There is a stop at the end of the track to prevent the plastic slider from getting out of the track at the front.

The corner of the sail is loosely tied to the boom around the aluminium track. I'm not sure that is necessary but I wanted something to hold the sail in case the outhaul exploded. Or more likely, the plastic slider broke.

I bought the track from Duckworks but in hindsight it is overkill for my use. The corner of the sail could easily be tied to the line that goes to the block, bypassing the track. Looks boaty and high tech though!!

Some people add another block and gain some mechanical advantage so they don't have to pull hard. I will try it as it is and improve if necessary.

NOTE: After a few sails, the outhaul seems to work fine so I don't think I will change it.

Ok so now the outhaul is set up. In short, the sail is shackled to the plastic slider in the aluminium track. This slider is then tied to a strong line that goes through a small block lashed to the end of the boom and returns to a fairlead and a cleat on the reverse side of the boom.

You now have your sail attached to the spars with an outhaul nicely cleated tensioning the base of your sail.

Deck fittings for HALYARD AND DOWNHAUL

The halyard I put on starboard and the downhaul on the port side. There might be a traditional side for each but I did not worry about that.

When I made the roof of the cuddy I fitted a support across the edge of the roof. I had not yet figured out how I would use it but I knew there would be some lines to cleat and I wanted a slightly higher spot. I had also prepared some half inch plywood pieces to back the blocks near the mast.

The blocks on each side of the mast are simple to install, in theory, but in practice it was tricky to align the holes so that they would fit around the bulkhead and the mast step support. Everything is held together with stainless bolts, washers, and nuts. I used 3M 4200 so called "somewhat re-positionable" adhesive/sealant. In actual use it makes a very good adhesive.

The downhaul gets a sturdy cam cleat mounted on the edge support, while the halyard gets the same kind of cleat I used on the edges of the boat to attach the mooring lines.

Both of these cleats are bolted on the support on the edge of the cuddy.

After installing everything I realized that I had forgotten to insert the block in the base so I had to use a little shackle to connect the block to the metal based bolted to the roof.

I allowed the deck fittings to set before setting up the parts that connect to the sail and mast. The sealant/glue takes a day to set through and I didn't want to chance breaking the seal.

halyard deck block

Now the deck hardware is installed for the halyard and the downhaul, deck blocks to turn the direction of the lines towards the back, and sturdy cleats.

Once I'm satisfied that the position of the hardware is working I will cut and sand the protruding bolts. It was difficult to get the right size hardware because of shipping difficulties and erratic stocks so I used longer bolts than needed.

Halyard and Downhaul can now be set up.

The last photo shows a test I did of the downhaul and halyard. I found that there is not much room to tighten the downhaul partly because My mast is a couple of inches shorter than designed. I can modify the setup and get a couple of more inches and this will work well. I was a bit doubtful of the big cleat for the halyard but I found that it works very well.

Setting up the HALYARD

The halyard attaches to the yard, goes up to a block at the top of the mast, then comes back down along the mast to the deck block alongside the mast, changes direction and goes on to the cleat at the edge of the cuddy roof.

When you pull on the line, the sail goes up. It's was a real thrill the first time I saw the sail go up.

block on top of mast

I made 3 loops. One to attach a block at the top of the mast, one to connect the halyard to the yard, and a third to connect the downhaul to the boom. The boom and the yard loops have thimbles, it makes it sturdier to attach shackles. I did not put any on the one that connects the block because I had trouble getting them (covid and all.). Round thimbles would probably been better and shorter but this is what I could get. The loops just go around the spars and can easily be moved to adjust position. The top one, which attaches the block for the halyard, goes through the hole at the top of the mast. I knotted and secured the connections. I'll keep an eye on them as times goes on just to make sure they are not fraying or coming apart.

locating halyard

I fretted and worried about positioning the sail. This determines the position, fore or aft, of the sail and thus the balance of the rig. Ideally, which does not exist, the centre of effort is balanced against the center of resistance of the centerboard, hull, rudder, and I guess the skegs.

I placed the top connection about 2/5 of distance to the leading edge at the front. That is I divided the top of the sail in 5 and put my loop at the 2/5 spot. The photo is deceptive because of slight rotation and loose lines.

I placed the bottom connection so that the edge of the sail is the same distance from the mast top to bottom. This is not a requirement, just a place to start.

I sat in the grass with the mast in position and figure this out in the flat. (My boat was still in the winter shelter and I could not raise the sail properly, so after positioning the loops I tied the mast against a fence and raise the sail there.)

I've now been out 3 times in low wind and the sail position appears to be in the ball park. In the few stronger gusts, the boat kept going straight without needing correcting with the rudder. I'll adjust the position, forward or back when necessary.

So now, there is a loop supporting a block, attached to the mast at the top. This goes through the hole at the top of the mast. Because the sail rotates around the mast as the tack changes there needs to be about 6-8 inches of space between the yard and the hole in the mast. This allows the sail to move around.

detail of halyard end

OK, time to hoist the sail. You have a halyard, with one end tied to the cleat on the edge of the cuddy so it doesn't take off on you, and come out of the block at the top. This halyard goes through the deck block, goes up to the top of the mast through the block, then comes down. Hang on to this and don't let it get away to the top because you will have to lower the mast to re-thread it back through the block. Ask me how I know!! You are now hanging on to the end of the halyard.

Put this end through a swivel block and pull out about 18 or so inches. Make a knot at the 18 inch mark.

Tie another knot at the end on the curved part of a shackle. If you look at the picture I have, the line comes down through the swivel block, there is a knot, then there is another knot, DISREGARD THIS SECOND KNOT, I was just figuring out what to do and forgot to take it out before taking a photo.

I put a block with a swivel, but I don't think it is necessary. There exists fittings that are essentially 2 loops with a swivel in between, that would work just as well I think. Again I was hampered by the lack of access to fittings.

Now, you can take the shackle and fasten it through the thimble on the loop attached to the top spar, the yard, and through the end of the swivel end of the block. Close it tightly and you are ready to hoist the sail. Pull it up and cleat it.

Once the sail is up, you will see it will swing forward and the sail will be loose at the bottom, you need a downhaul.

This set up works but I think the lower block is not necessary and I could take it out entirely and only use the shackle directly in it's place. To be continued...

The line is 3/8 polyester.

SCAMP DOWNHAUL

The purpose of the downhaul is to pull down on the sail and tension the leading edge. Unlike other sails, the edge of the balanced lug sail is not set against the mast so it is free to flex unless pulled tight. In order to set properly, the edge must be under tension so it can shape properly.

The downhaul also positions the sail more or less forward or back depending on where you have located your loop. Your hardware should be in place already. That is, you have installed a deck swivel block that has a becket, you have a loop with a thimble hanging downwards, on the boom, you have a simgle block and a shackle ready.

downhaul assembly

Attach your single block to the the loop using the shackle. I'm using a stainless steel chain link instead of a shackle and I think it is working very well. It is easy to hang the link on both parts and it holds in place while the little captive nut is screwed on. You can see it at the very top of the detailed photo.

Tie your line to the deck block becket using a bowline knot. Pass the line through the single block and back down through the deck block and cleat it to the cam cleat you installed earlier.

You can now tighten the downhaul and it will pull the boom and sail down. The set up gives you a 2:1 mechanical advantage.

I expect I will eventually change the loop I have made with a round thimble instead of an oval one, and will get a shorter chain linker or shackle. This will enable me to pull the boom lower if necessary.

REEFING LINES

Reefing lines allow you to reduce sail easily while standing in the middle of the boat. No reaching and trying to balance holding on to a flopping sail. The down side of reefing lines is that there are yet another bunch of lines to get tangled.

They are simple to add and provide a lot of ease of mind.

If you look at your sail you will notice reef points along the fore and aft edges of the sail. Usually there are 3 but you might have only 2. I chose to only set up the smallest and largest reefing points. If I want to use the middle one I'll reef to the maximum and set up the other lines by hand then I can shake out the maximum reef. I did not set up the third reef because I felt the boom was getting a bit crowded and the chance of tangling was increasing.

These are simple to set up. You will need either smooth pad eyes, or fairleeds, some small cleats and 1/4 inch line. You will also need nuts and bolts to fasten through the boom. Choose 2 different colour lines otherwise you will get confused when reefing.

reefing measuring

NOTE Don't leave too much yard or boom towards the front because when you reef the sail the spars might bump against each other, If you look at the photo you can see the yard protrudes beyond the sail and the boom rubbed against it. I had to move the sail further towards the right to fix this.

Lay out your sail in a nice patch of shade, or better raise your sail on the mast. Put a loose line in the reefing point you are setting up and mark where it falls on the boom. Mark the point then go back an inch or so. You want your reefing lines to be just a little bit wider than the width of the sail at the level of the holes so that when your reef is in the sail is not bunching up on the boom but rather are slightly under tension. You will not have the outhaul for the reefs. The fore of the sail is almost perpendicular so the points will be almost the same for each of the reefing points but the aft of the sail has more of a diagonal and the marks will be further apart. If you are on the grass make your best guess, it's not critical.

reefing lines

Position a pad eye or a fairleed in the 2 fore and aft spots you have chosen. Drill right through the side of the boom and install one on each side using nuts and bolts. Use the same bolt to fasten the pad eye on both sides. You will now have 8 pad eyes or fairleads, 4 aft and 4 fore. You can see 2 on the photo and if you look on the other side of the boom, there are 2 exactly the same bolted with the same nuts and bolts. Once you are happy with the positioning you can cut and sand the extra length of bolt.

Install one set fore and one set aft slightly higher so they don't interfere with each other's line, you can see that the one closer to the end is lower.

Some people install a pad eye on the back and a small block on the front.

reefing cleats

You now need to bolt 4 small cleats towards the centre of the boom to tie off your reefing lines. I used black nylon cleats large enough to handle the 1/4 inch line.

reefing fore

I wanted to use 2 nice cheek blocks that I had for the fore reefing setup but between the grass spot and my shop I lost one and could not find it even with the metal detector. So I used one and an extra pad eye I had from another boat build. There are pad eyes in the back same as on the other side.

To set up the reefing, tie a line to the back pad eye. Thread the line towards the front through the grommet in the sail at the level you want to reef, then down through the front pad eye. Don't tie the line in the front. Instead, run the line to one of the plastic cleats and tie it off. Make a knot about 8 inches away from the cleat. Any extra line can be cut and melted, when you have checked that the reef works to your satisfaction.

Do this fore and aft for the 2 or 3 reefs you are setting up.

To reef, lower the sail the amount you will be shortening the sail, then uncleat the reef line you want on one side, and simply pull on it.

The line will tighten and start pulling the boom upwards towards the reef. When the boom and the reef grommet are near each other cleat your reef line and do the same to the other end of the sail.

Tighten the downhaul till the sail is deployed. You might have to loosen or tighten the halyard.

Your sail will have little holes along the middle between the reefing points. You can put short lines through these grommets and use them to tie up the middle section of the sail along the boom. Tie only the sail, not the sail with the boom.

It's not essential to have reefing ties but it makes things tidier looking.

Part 2 of this page which describes the Lazy jacks, Mainsheet and traveler and centreboard set up.

emails: Christine

If you decide to build a boat be careful. These tools can be dangerous. If you don't know how to safely handle something find out.

This web site reflects my personal ideas and doesn't represent anyone else's point of view. I don't claim to be an expert in anything, just someone muddling along.

I pay for maintaining this website by having links to Amazon.com. I choose the ads to be relevant to the content. Mostly stuff that I buy myself or lust after. If you buy after clicking one of the links I get a small fee.

scamp sailboat junk rig

 

 S.C.A.M.P


I've been corresponding with Joshua Colvin and Craig Wagner, editors of , for a few years now, and have written articles and design features for quite a few issues. Even though we've not met face to face we've gotten to know each other some. The 8000 miles between us being only a fraction of a second away by e-mail. Knowing their bias to the small and simple I was not at all surprised to hear from them asking if a very small cruiser might be a practical proposition.

That's an area of boating that is very close to my heart. Being affordable is very important, as is being achievable, safe, and comfortable. Cruising yachts seem too often to be big, expensive, complex creatures that own their skippers rather than the other way around; what they were proposing was very much at the other end of the scale.

"Ten feet long," they e-mailed. "Sleep on board for a weekend. Something that would daysail an adult and a couple of children. Really easy to build in a garage, and small enough to not need an expensive trailer or a big car to tow it."

There were other considerations, but the above pretty much set the tone.

I have a very successful design called " ." It's a nine-foot long big little boat that will carry a heavy load in mountainous seas. Several of them are called which while not very original is appropriate and at least indicates that the owner-builders know a little of the history of Mt. Everest. Sherpa's a very good hullform for stability and load carrying. It sails well enough for a group of owners to have begun sailing as an informal class with a local yacht club, and is stylish enough to attract compliments. People love it, and I figure that it's one of my better designs.

With that as a starting point I drew a little sketch, photographed it, and e-mailed it to in Port Townsend.

The answer did not take long to come back to me-the response being very enthusiastic and encouraging. We had several exchanges of thoughts and ideas and I've since worked over the drawing, done all the arithmetic and adjusted a few things. S. C. A. M. P. (That's Small Craft Advisor Magazine Project) is a tad over 10 feet long and a whisker under five wide-she is short and fat. With her water ballast she will be exceptionally stable allowing the skipper to move around the little ship without worrying about falling out. SCAMP has plenty of freeboard, lots of dry stowage, a self draining cockpit-and for safety's sake a huge amount of air-tank buoyancy.

That little "cabin" is really a secure locker and buoyancy air tank. There is room in there for a sleeping bag, dry clothes, food, matches and such. There is also space for a lot more stores and equipment under the side seats, and if the skipper is intending to get away for a really big adventure, there is more space under the cockpit floor.

That self draining floor is the bunk, wide enough for shoulders, long enough for all but the tallest NBA player, sheltered and secure with their head up under the after end of the "cabin." I'd expect there to be about an even break between those who will tent the cockpit with a cover over the boom and those who will use a "bivysack" type outdoor sleeping bag. Either way it'll be easy to be comfortable in there.

Josh told me that a dedicated place for the bucket is very important, so there is a little well at the after end of the cockpit floor, the dinghy venturi bailers are positioned in there and it provides not only a secure place for the bucket in under the tiller, but also a place for any rainwater or spray to drain into.

The centerboard is hidden in the starboard side seat front, and does not get in the way at all. The asymmetry making such a tiny difference that few will ever notice from one tack to the other.

With twin skegs under her flat bottom, and a kickup rudder, she can sneak into very shallow water, and will sit upright when the tide goes out, often an ideal way of spending a night out in a small boat that would otherwise be bounced around by the waves and powerboat wakes in a big boat anchorage.

The rig is a simple balanced lugsail. I'd expect the boat to be ready to launch within 15 minutes of arrival at the boat ramp, the mast being unstayed and light enough to just pick up and plug in, the yard and boom with the sail being easy to fit, leaving only the rudder to put on.

I can imagine sailing around the point and into the glossy waters of a tiny sheltered cove, drifting along on the last of the evening breeze. It won't take long to get the tent up. The stove will have the water boiled for coffee by the time that's up and secure, and there are several choices of meals that can be heated and ready for supper by the time the coffee is down. While the little boat is indeed very small, it's comfortable, so why go home tomorrow, or even the next day? It's a big lake, and there are lots of anchorages like this to enjoy.

SCA (Small Craft Advisor) Editors on SCAMP

"What does a man need-really need? A few pounds of food each day, heat and shelter, six feet to lie down in-and some form of working activity that will yield a sense of accomplishment. That's all-in the material sense, and we know it. But we are brainwashed by our economic system until we end up in a tomb beneath a pyramid of time payments, mortgages, preposterous gadgetry, playthings that divert our attention for the sheer idiocy of the charade. The years thunder by, the dreams of youth grow dim where they lie caked in dust on the shelves of patience. Before we know it, the tomb is sealed. Where, then, lies the answer? In choice. Which shall it be: bankruptcy of purse or bankruptcy of life?" -Sterling Hayden

Our own youthful dreams often featured small boats in supporting roles. Stalwart little vessels aboard which we'd venture across nebulous bodies of water in search of uncharted shores and uninhabited islands. Sometimes we'd land and go ashore to explore or make camp, often retreating to our boats to wait out a summer storm beneath a boom tent. We'd read sea stories by oil lantern and, on clear nights, sleep under a blanket of stars.

Curiously, these fanciful voyages never involved wrestling with a heavy mast, fussing with a smelly outboard, or being held off shore by our boat's draft. And even when we pictured whitecaps kicked up by a stout afternoon breeze, never was there a chilly capsize.

It was a longing for those simple pleasures that inspired thoughts of SCAMP. That and a persistent desire to go over "there"-that place we often see but can never quite reach. It seems to happen on every cruise. Never mind that we're usually sailing the smallest boat around for miles. We always come upon some ultra-shallow bay or intriguing tidal stream that disappears into the reeds, trees and rushes. To get in there-all the way in there-a boat needs to be light, shallow and easily propelled-and preferably flat-bottomed should we decide to stay though the ebb.

Trying our best to distill small-boat cruising to its essence, we sorted out our ideas and took the best of them to one of our favorite designers-John Welsford. It shouldn't have surprised us that, being of a like mind, he responded enthusiastically.

What we commissioned was the most micro of cruisers. We wanted a cabin, not for a claustrophobic casket-like berth-but for dry stowage, buoyancy and a bulwark against wind and seas. We tried to be honest about the compromises. In describing the boat to John we said SCAMP would be so small that, "the designer himself might cringe a little when he puts the pencil down."

Remarkably, where we expected John would need eleven or even twelve feet to meet our goals, he was able to do so in slightly over ten. And where we'd resigned ourselves to the possibility she might be at least slightly less capable than larger microcruisers, John drew SCAMP with a selfdraining cockpit, abundant flotation, and 145-pounds of water ballast. Unlike many larger designs, SCAMP should be recoverable from a complete capsize.

We've long been fans of pram bows and how they maximize volume at a given hull length, and before we could ask, John's initial reply suggested one for SCAMP

Thanks to an offset centerboard the cockpit sole/ single berth measures 25 x 77 inches, making accommodations almost luxurious for the solo sailor. Designed to be sailed, rowed and perhaps sculled, SCAMP can also be fitted with an outboard in place of her rudder-or with an optional mount for a trolling motor.

We believe every boat needs a bucket, so we asked John if he could design in a designated spot for one. He did. Every SCAMP sailor will have at hand a storage container, fire extinguisher, drogue or emergency steering aid, rudimentary head, bailing device, and a tool for filling the ballast tanks.

We wanted the simplicity of a single sail (single halyard, single sheet, etc.) and John wisely recommended the balanced lug. Although we're fans of this rig and unanimously saw it as the best choice, we wondered if some potential builders might prefer the more familiar gaff sail. At our urging, and with some reluctance, John drew SCAMP with a gaff. The resultant drawing with the much higher aspect rig looked less purposeful, unwieldy-almost fragile. Seeing SCAMP dressed like this so convinced us of the balanced lug's better suitability that we scrapped the gaff option altogether. John appreciated our coming to our senses and wrote, "The lugsail gets the right amount of area in the space available without getting outside the ends of the boat or going up too high. Remember that this is a very stable boat, and can carry a lot of sail without risk, and that's one of the strengths of the lugsail."

John suggests a practiced amateur could have the construction done and ready for paint in about 110 hours. It's our hope that new sailors and first-time builders will appreciate the small size and simplicity of the design, and that more experienced builders and sailors will appreciate SCAMP's surprising level of sophistication.

Although SCAMP wasn't designed specifically with kids in mind, we think she would make an ideal exploration boat for young sailors-safe, capable and easily handled. We intend to donate a set of plans to any formal organization or school looking to build a SCAMP for this purpose.

Now on to the next step-finding a builder for the prototype and getting SCAMP in the water! SCA

SCAMP Plans are available at Duckworks

scamp sailboat junk rig


  
 
 

      

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scamp sailboat junk rig

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Gig Harbor Boat Works logo showing a stylized classic rowboat

  • 12′ Scamp

  “I have to say it’s the biggest little boat I’ve ever sailed.”                        

– 48 north magazine.

Scamp really scoots!

The Scamp is a seaworthy 12′ sailboat that can handle a good dose of adventure.

Just under 12 feet in length, Scamp boasts an unusual combination of features that give her the unique ability to explore waters too shallow for a larger boat, while retaining most of the bigger boat’s comforts and capabilities. An offset centerboard opens up the cockpit and an 8′ 3″ sleeping area, and 172 pounds of water ballast provide exceptional stability. The cockpit is self-bailing, and a pair of grounding skegs on her flat bottom keep Scamp perfectly upright when landing on a beach or when the tide goes out.

Originally designed as a wood boat by John Welsford, Gig Harbor Boat Works worked closely with the designer and staff from Small Craft Advisor to create a fiberglass version. Scamp #1 hit the water for its first sea trial in July of 2013!

As a specialized boat, the Scamp has some different options than the rest of our boats. We have had quite a few questions about Scamp’s option list so I thought it best to go into more detail below about the various choices. Be sure to check out the “Scamp Options” tab below for photos and descriptions of all the available options.

I’d like to emphasize the fact that we build and sell all of our boats complete, ready to sail. Our “basic’” Scamp is sail ready with exactly the same top quality parts and materials as a “fancy” Scamp — you don’t have to add anything to go for a satisfactory sail. Our ‘Base’ boat’s level of completion is the same as specified in the Scamp plans or kit for DIY home builders. Options are exactly that… individual choices made by the owner to suit their cosmetic desires and refine performance.

Fiberglass SCAMP Overhead View

Shown with optional floor storage hatch and optional wood trim. Motor not included.

Scamp Overhead View

12' Scamp Full Specifications

LOA: 11’11”
BEAM: 64″
DISPLACEMENT: 420 lbs
Model-Specific Options:

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SCAMP Photo Gallery (click to enlarge):

More about the scamp:.

  • 48 North Review
  • SCAMP Options (as of Jan 2016)
  Gig Harbor Boat Works, known for their strong, esthetically pleasing rowing boats, has already shipped a number of the new SCAMPS all over the country and overseas. “The kit boat has a lot of intricate details that the home builder may not have the talent or tools to build,” says Dave Robertson, owner of GHB. “With the fiberglass version, they can enjoy using the boat right away.” The GHB boat is truly sail-away complete; from oars to sails.
There are many innovations designed into the SCAMP that make it truly a big little boat. One thing that usually takes up a lot of cockpit room of most small boats is the centerboard. The SCAMP’s centerboard, very heavy but swings up easily for trailer or grounding, is offset to starboard so that it doesn’t intrude into the cockpit. I’ll let you call Dave to explain the physics of the offset. Suffice it to say that we didn’t notice a difference on either tack. The result is it opens up the cockpit which feels more like that of a of a San Juan 24.
The boat was surprisingly quick and very stable. “This boat can’t be just 12’long,” I thought. I stood up and rocked it side to side with minimal affect. It felt like 20-footer.   Sailing the SCAMP made me a believer that it actually would be a safe and enjoyable way to explore the San Juans, as well as just knocking around the bay for a fun day of sailing. The SCAMP had lots of surprises, all good.   I have to say it’s the biggest little boat I’ve ever sailed.

See the price list for current pricing of Scamp options

Cosmetic options

Hull color change ( white hull exterior is standard).

This option allows you to customize the hull exterior to the color of your choice.  For the best balance of pizzazz and reasonable maintenance, we recommend that color only be added to the top strake and the balance of the hull be left white. Why? A white underbody doesn’t show scratches like a dark color, it is easy to repair, and Scamp has high freeboard so a darker sheer strake lowers the apparent freeboard. If you add color to the top strake, we will extend the color across the top of the bow and leave the stern all white for best visual balance.

Deck and interior color change (Bisque Tan deck and interior are standard)

The Bisque color is neutral so goes with any accent color – it also doesn’t show scratches and is easy on the eyes. However, we can make the topsides any color you want; for more than a basic color change the price varies with color and pattern.

Bronze Deadlights (white nylon deadlights standard)

Mahogany gunwale trim (standard gunwale trim is tan vinyl).

This wood trim option also includes mahogany ‘eyebrows’ on the cabin sides. Other wood trim such as coaming or seat top overlay is available on a custom basis.

Custom Sail Color (standard is ‘Egyptian cotton)

Any color available, price varies with color and pattern.

Hull options

Stainless steel keel guards.

Over 90% of the boats we build are specified with stainless steel keel protection. Fiberglass is a wonderful boatbuilding material; easy to conform to compound shapes, hard smooth finish, eminently repairable; but it is NOT abrasion resistant. Pulling a boat onto a beach is asking for grief, especially if parts of the boat have a sharp edges forming high pressure areas…. like the keelsons on Scamp. Protecting the keelsons is a lot cheaper than fiberglass repair.

Floor storage hatch

There is a lot of usable, easily accessible space under the cockpit floor. This optional storage is a sealed chamber approximately 18″ wide x 30″ long with depth varying from about 8″ at the forward end to 4″ aft. The hatch accessing the storage is a rectangular Armstrong style with 14″ x 21″ opening. If you plan to add electric propulsion or accessories this is an ideal location for batteries!

Bilge pump, handheld manual style

Rain and spray is contained in the cockpit sump at the transom. This can be scooped or sponged out easily. However, if you somehow get water inside the seats or underfloor that is a relatively inaccessible area. Although chances of getting much water in this area are slim, it helps to have a portable handheld pump handy.

Outboard motor bracket

Removable outboard motor bracket

Bolts to outside of transom. Owners have noted that a permanent motor mount on Scamp is, well, ugly. So we researched a removable mount that has only a flat plate permanently bolted to the transom. The actual motor carrier clips onto the plate with a simple quick pin, no tools required to install or remove the bracket.

Bronze 5″ cleats

Bronze cleat

Bronze cleat

Stainless steel pop–up cleats

Pop-up cleat

Performance / operational options

Trailer, galvanized, custom designed for scamp.

Scamp is very difficult to fit correctly on a trailer; the twin keelsons, wide chines and flat bow just don’t work with any standard trailer. We designed a custom trailer specifically for this hull. It is 100% galvanized and has three aft rollers to accommodate self centering on the keelsons. Scamp has a tendency to skate sideways when loading, so we install carpeted side guides and a central crossmember roller to make loading simple. Forward is a carpeted transverse bunk to support the fairbody, and finally a special twin chock winch pedestal. Oh yeah, bearing buddies are standard too.

Swiveling mainsheet cleat with removable base

The mainsheet cleat is fastened to a transverse board between the seat tops. You can adjust the position of the board and cleat fore or aft the length of the cockpit or remove it entirely by pulling two stainless steel fastpins.

Jiffy reefing

Three Reef points in the sail are standard, but there are no reefing lines or cleats. If you want jiffy reefing we”ll set up two complete ready to use reefs.

Compass, bulkhead mounted Richie #RITV57.2

Oars, 9’4″ 2-piece fiberglass shaft with bronze oarlocks.

Scamp’s high freeboard and wide beam requires 9’+ oars which are impossible to stow in Scamps’ cockpit. We have engineered high quality, strong 2 piece 9’4″ spoon blade oars that disassemble and store concealed inside the cockpit coamings. Another practical storage area is on the vertical seat sides, clipped into modified fishing rod holders.

Cover for trailering/storage

Top Notch fabric, custom sewn for Scamp.  Protects deck and cockpit during trailering and storage.

Bimini/Camping style cockpit cover

Scamp Bimini

Fully enclosed bimini cockpit enclosure with zippered windows and side curtains. Sides zip off individually for fully-customized protection from the weather.

Scamp spar and sail bag

We are always looking for ways to simplify sailing, and one of the most vexing chores is the assembling the rig. Wouldn’t it be nice to be able to pull the completely assembled, ready to hoist sail and spars out of a bag? This special bag is 12′ long and has two long pockets; the lower pocket is for the two-section mast. The upper pocket has a full length zipper so you can store the sail lashed to the yard and boom with even the jiffy reefing in place. Just pull the mast with halyard attached from the bag and plop into the cabin-top ‘Scamp Ramp.’  Then fasten your halyard to the Yard and hoist the whole rigged sail out of the bag. All you have left to do is run the halyard and downhaul to their respective cleats, clip the mainsheet and lazy jacks to the boom and away you go. 10 minutes, done.

Stirrup reboarding system

Transom boarding ladder ….. still under development, scamp rigging tutorial.

If you’re not familiar with balanced-lug rigging, here’s a great tutorial showing how to set up this simple and intuitive rig.

Imagining your ideal boat?

Take a turn through our online quote creator to see the possibilities. No haggling, no commitment.

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For sale 1 Bedroom, EKATERINBURG, Sverdlovsk Oblast, Russian Federation, Sherbaova 77

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scamp sailboat junk rig

For sale - Cod. 29133

  • Tipology: 1 Bedroom
  • Area: 43 m²
  • Rooms No.: 1
  • Publication date announcement: 26/08/2016

Hello, we are the owners, Irina and Oleg. We sell a bright, comfortable and very beautiful flat, designed in a Scandinavian style. The flat created "for himself", but forced to sell due to moving to Moscow. ( We bought and renovated this flat for us but we have time sell it due to ...) The flat is located in a picturesque location near the Uktus mountains. The residential complex Stony Brook. In the flat: - All necessary equipment. (Dishwasher, washing machine, oven, refrigerator, range hood, stove, TV, microwave, coffee machine) - 2 wardrobes - Ennobled balcony where you can enjoy beautiful views of the forest and mountains, and dream about the most valuable. - Cable TV, wireless internet. - Increased size of window openings make the flat extremely bright. - All items and accessories are in the flat. In building: - High-speed elevator otis, which descends directly into the underground parking. - Concierge. - Courtyard complex located on the podium, which is located at 3 floors. House territory developed according to modern requirements - as a sport, and a playground with a safe finish. - On the first floor there is a trading gallery with a large grocery store, pharmacy, children's and sports goods, cafés and restaurants. The complex has a fitness club. Area: - In walking distance from the complex there is a shopping center "Globus" Waterpark "Limpopo", sports complex, "Planet IGRIK" (children's entertainment center), ICE (fitness center), the ski slopes and ski resorts, subway Botanica. - 8 km to the center. - 100 m bus stop

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  • Places - European, Western and Northern Russia

YEKATERINBURG: FACTORIES, URAL SIGHTS, YELTSIN AND THE WHERE NICHOLAS II WAS KILLED

Sverdlovsk oblast.

Sverdlovsk Oblast is the largest region in the Urals; it lies in the foothills of mountains and contains a monument indicating the border between Europe and Asia. The region covers 194,800 square kilometers (75,200 square miles), is home to about 4.3 million people and has a population density of 22 people per square kilometer. About 83 percent of the population live in urban areas. Yekaterinburg is the capital and largest city, with 1.5 million people. For Russians, the Ural Mountains are closely associated with Pavel Bazhov's tales and known for folk crafts such as Kasli iron sculpture, Tagil painting, and copper embossing. Yekaterinburg is the birthplace of Russia’s iron and steel industry, taking advantage of the large iron deposits in the Ural mountains. The popular Silver Ring of the Urals tourist route starts here.

In the summer you can follow in the tracks of Yermak, climb relatively low Ural mountain peaks and look for boulders seemingly with human faces on them. You can head to the Gemstone Belt of the Ural mountains, which used to house emerald, amethyst and topaz mines. In the winter you can go ice fishing, ski and cross-country ski.

Sverdlovsk Oblast and Yekaterinburg are located near the center of Russia, at the crossroads between Europe and Asia and also the southern and northern parts of Russia. Winters are longer and colder than in western section of European Russia. Snowfalls can be heavy. Winter temperatures occasionally drop as low as - 40 degrees C (-40 degrees F) and the first snow usually falls in October. A heavy winter coat, long underwear and good boots are essential. Snow and ice make the sidewalks very slippery, so footwear with a good grip is important. Since the climate is very dry during the winter months, skin moisturizer plus lip balm are recommended. Be alert for mud on street surfaces when snow cover is melting (April-May). Patches of mud create slippery road conditions.

Yekaterinburg

Yekaterinburg (kilometer 1818 on the Trans-Siberian Railway) is the fourth largest city in Russia, with of 1.5 million and growth rate of about 12 percent, high for Russia. Located in the southern Ural mountains, it was founded by Peter the Great and named after his wife Catherine, it was used by the tsars as a summer retreat and is where tsar Nicholas II and his family were executed and President Boris Yeltsin lived most of his life and began his political career. The city is near the border between Europe and Asia.

Yekaterinburg (also spelled Ekaterinburg) is located on the eastern slope of the Ural Mountains in the headwaters of the Iset and Pyshma Rivers. The Iset runs through the city center. Three ponds — Verkh-Isetsky, Gorodskoy and Nizhne-Isetsky — were created on it. Yekaterinburg has traditionally been a city of mining and was once the center of the mining industry of the Urals and Siberia. Yekaterinburg remains a major center of the Russian armaments industry and is sometimes called the "Pittsburgh of Russia.". A few ornate, pastel mansions and wide boulevards are reminders of the tsarist era. The city is large enough that it has its own Metro system but is characterized mostly by blocky Soviet-era apartment buildings. The city has advanced under President Vladimir Putin and is now one of the fastest growing places in Russia, a country otherwise characterized by population declines

Yekaterinburg is technically an Asian city as it lies 32 kilometers east of the continental divide between Europe and Asia. The unofficial capital of the Urals, a key region in the Russian heartland, it is second only to Moscow in terms of industrial production and capital of Sverdlovsk oblast. Among the important industries are ferrous and non-ferrous metallurgy, machine building and metalworking, chemical and petrochemicals, construction materials and medical, light and food industries. On top of being home of numerous heavy industries and mining concerns, Yekaterinburg is also a major center for industrial research and development and power engineering as well as home to numerous institutes of higher education, technical training, and scientific research. In addition, Yekaterinburg is the largest railway junction in Russia: the Trans-Siberian Railway passes through it, the southern, northern, western and eastern routes merge in the city.

Accommodation: There are two good and affordable hotels — the 3-star Emerald and Parus hotels — located close to the city's most popular landmarks and main transport interchanges in the center of Yekaterinburg. Room prices start at RUB 1,800 per night.

History of Yekaterinburg

Yekaterinburg was founded in 1723 by Peter the Great and named after his wife Catherine I. It was used by the tsars as a summer retreat but was mainly developed as metalworking and manufacturing center to take advantage of the large deposits of iron and other minerals in the Ural mountains. It is best known to Americans as the place where the last Tsar and his family were murdered by the Bolsheviks in 1918 and near where American U-2 spy plane, piloted by Gary Powers, was shot down in 1960.

Peter the Great recognized the importance of the iron and copper-rich Urals region for Imperial Russia's industrial and military development. In November 1723, he ordered the construction of a fortress factory and an ironworks in the Iset River Valley, which required a dam for its operation. In its early years Yekaterinburg grew rich from gold and other minerals and later coal. The Yekaterinburg gold rush of 1745 created such a huge amount of wealth that one rich baron of that time hosted a wedding party that lasted a year. By the mid-18th century, metallurgical plants had sprung up across the Urals to cast cannons, swords, guns and other weapons to arm Russia’s expansionist ambitions. The Yekaterinburg mint produced most of Russia's coins. Explorations of the Trans-Baikal and Altai regions began here in the 18th century.

Iron, cast iron and copper were the main products. Even though Iron from the region went into the Eiffel Tower, the main plant in Yekaterinburg itself was shut down in 1808. The city still kept going through a mountain factory control system of the Urals. The first railway in the Urals was built here: in 1878, the Yekaterinburg-Perm railway branch connected the province's capital with the factories of the Middle Urals.

In the Soviet era the city was called Sverdlovsk (named after Yakov Sverdlov, the man who organized Nicholas II's execution). During the first five-year plans the city became industrial — old plants were reconstructed, new ones were built. The center of Yekaterinburg was formed to conform to the historical general plan of 1829 but was the layout was adjusted around plants and factories. In the Stalin era the city was a major gulag transhipment center. In World War II, many defense-related industries were moved here. It and the surrounding area were a center of the Soviet Union's military industrial complex. Soviet tanks, missiles and aircraft engines were made in the Urals. During the Cold War era, Yekaterinburg was a center of weapons-grade uranium enrichment and processing, warhead assembly and dismantlement. In 1979, 64 people died when anthrax leaked from a biological weapons facility. Yekaterinburg was a “Closed City” for 40 years during the Cold Soviet era and was not open to foreigners until 1991

In the early post-Soviet era, much like Pittsburgh in the 1970s, Yekaterinburg had a hard struggle d to cope with dramatic economic changes that have made its heavy industries uncompetitive on the world market. Huge defense plants struggled to survive and the city was notorious as an organized crime center in the 1990s, when its hometown boy Boris Yeltsin was President of Russia. By the 2000s, Yekaterinburg’s retail and service was taking off, the defense industry was reviving and it was attracting tech industries and investments related to the Urals’ natural resources. By the 2010s it was vying to host a world exhibition in 2020 (it lost, Dubai won) and it had McDonald’s, Subway, sushi restaurants, and Gucci, Chanel and Armani. There were Bentley and Ferrari dealerships but they closed down

Transportation in Yekaterinburg

Getting There: By Plane: Yekaterinburg is a three-hour flight from Moscow with prices starting at RUB 8,000, or a 3-hour flight from Saint Petersburg starting from RUB 9,422 (direct round-trip flight tickets for one adult passenger). There are also flights from Frankfurt, Istanbul, China and major cities in the former Soviet Union.

By Train: Yekaterinburg is a major stop on the Trans-Siberian Railway. Daily train service is available to Moscow and many other Russian cities.Yekaterinburg is a 32-hour train ride from Moscow (tickets RUB 8,380 and above) or a 36-hour train ride from Saint Petersburg (RUB 10,300 and above). The ticket prices are round trip for a berth in a sleeper compartment for one adult passenger). By Car: a car trip from Moscow to Yekateringburg is 1,787 kilometers long and takes about 18 hours. The road from Saint Petersburg is 2,294 kilometers and takes about 28 hours.

Regional Transport: The region's public transport includes buses and suburban electric trains. Regional trains provide transport to larger cities in the Ural region. Buses depart from Yekaterinburg’s two bus stations: the Southern Bus Station and the Northern Bus Station.

Regional Transport: According the to Association for Safe International Road Travel (ASIRT): “Public transportation is well developed. Overcrowding is common. Fares are low. Service is efficient. Buses are the main form of public transport. Tram network is extensive. Fares are reasonable; service is regular. Trams are heavily used by residents, overcrowding is common. Purchase ticket after boarding. Metro runs from city center to Uralmash, an industrial area south of the city. Metro ends near the main railway station. Fares are inexpensive.

“Traffic is congested in city center. Getting around by car can be difficult. Route taxis (minivans) provide the fastest transport. They generally run on specific routes, but do not have specific stops. Drivers stop where passengers request. Route taxis can be hailed. Travel by bus or trolleybuses may be slow in rush hour. Trams are less affected by traffic jams. Trolley buses (electric buses) cannot run when temperatures drop below freezing.”

Entertainment, Sports and Recreation in Yekaterinburg

The performing arts in Yekaterinburg are first rate. The city has an excellent symphony orchestra, opera and ballet theater, and many other performing arts venues. Tickets are inexpensive. The Yekaterinburg Opera and Ballet Theater is lavishly designed and richly decorated building in the city center of Yekaterinburg. The theater was established in 1912 and building was designed by architect Vladimir Semyonov and inspired by the Vienna Opera House and the Theater of Opera and Ballet in Odessa.

Vaynera Street is a pedestrian only shopping street in city center with restaurants, cafes and some bars. But otherwise Yekaterinburg's nightlife options are limited. There are a handful of expensive Western-style restaurants and bars, none of them that great. Nightclubs serve the city's nouveau riche clientele. Its casinos have closed down. Some of them had links with organized crime. New dance clubs have sprung up that are popular with Yekaterinburg's more affluent youth.

Yekaterinburg's most popular spectator sports are hockey, basketball, and soccer. There are stadiums and arenas that host all three that have fairly cheap tickets. There is an indoor water park and lots of parks and green spaces. The Urals have many lakes, forests and mountains are great for hiking, boating, berry and mushroom hunting, swimming and fishing. Winter sports include cross-country skiing and ice skating. Winter lasts about six months and there’s usually plenty of snow. The nearby Ural Mountains however are not very high and the downhill skiing opportunities are limited..

Sights in Yekaterinburg

Sights in Yekaterinburg include the Museum of City Architecture and Ural Industry, with an old water tower and mineral collection with emeralds. malachite, tourmaline, jasper and other precious stone; Geological Alley, a small park with labeled samples of minerals found in the Urals region; the Ural Geology Museum, which houses an extensive collection of stones, gold and gems from the Urals; a monument marking the border between Europe and Asia; a memorial for gulag victims; and a graveyard with outlandish memorials for slain mafia members.

The Military History Museum houses the remains of the U-2 spy plane shot down in 1960 and locally made tanks and rocket launchers. The fine arts museum contains paintings by some of Russia's 19th-century masters. Also worth a look are the History an Local Studies Museum; the Political History and Youth Museum; and the University and Arboretum. Old wooden houses can be seen around Zatoutstovsya ulitsa and ulitsa Belinskogo. Around the city are wooded parks, lakes and quarries used to harvest a variety of minerals. Weiner Street is the main street of Yekaterinburg. Along it are lovely sculptures and 19th century architecture. Take a walk around the unique Literary Quarter

Plotinka is a local meeting spot, where you will often find street musicians performing. Plotinka can be described as the center of the city's center. This is where Yekaterinburg holds its biggest events: festivals, seasonal fairs, regional holiday celebrations, carnivals and musical fountain shows. There are many museums and open-air exhibitions on Plotinka. Plotinka is named after an actual dam of the city pond located nearby (“plotinka” means “a small dam” in Russian).In November 1723, Peter the Great ordered the construction of an ironworks in the Iset River Valley, which required a dam for its operation. “Iset” can be translated from Finnish as “abundant with fish”. This name was given to the river by the Mansi — the Finno-Ugric people dwelling on the eastern slope of the Northern Urals.

Vysotsky and Iset are skyscrapers that are 188.3 meters and 209 meters high, respectively. Fifty-story-high Iset has been described by locals as the world’s northernmost skyscraper. Before the construction of Iset, Vysotsky was the tallest building of Yekaterinburg and Russia (excluding Moscow). A popular vote has decided to name the skyscraper after the famous Soviet songwriter, singer and actor Vladimir Vysotsky. and the building was opened on November 25, 2011. There is a lookout at the top of the building, and the Vysotsky museum on its second floor. The annual “Vysotsky climb” (1137 steps) is held there, with a prize of RUB 100,000. While Vysotsky serves as an office building, Iset, owned by the Ural Mining and Metallurgical Company, houses 225 premium residential apartments ranging from 80 to 490 square meters in size.

Boris Yeltsin Presidential Center

The Boris Yeltsin Presidential Center (in the city center: ul. Yeltsina, 3) is a non-governmental organization named after the first president of the Russian Federation. The Museum of the First President of Russia as well as his archives are located in the Center. There is also a library, educational and children's centers, and exposition halls. Yeltsin lived most of his life and began his political career in Yekaterinburg. He was born in Butka about 200 kilometers east of Yekaterinburg.

The core of the Center is the Museum. Modern multimedia technologies help animate the documents, photos from the archives, and artifacts. The Yeltsin Museum holds collections of: propaganda posters, leaflets, and photos of the first years of the Soviet regime; portraits and portrait sculptures of members of Politburo of the Central Committee of the Communist Party of various years; U.S.S.R. government bonds and other items of the Soviet era; a copy of “One Day in the Life of Ivan Denisovich” by Alexander Solzhenitsyn, published in the “Novy Mir” magazine (#11, 1962); perestroika-era editions of books by Alexander Solzhenitsyn, Vasily Grossman, and other authors; theater, concert, and cinema posters, programs, and tickets — in short, all of the artifacts of the perestroika era.

The Yeltsin Center opened in 2012. Inside you will also find an art gallery, a bookstore, a gift shop, a food court, concert stages and a theater. There are regular screenings of unique films that you will not find anywhere else. Also operating inside the center, is a scientific exploritorium for children. The center was designed by Boris Bernaskoni. Almost from the its very opening, the Yeltsin Center has been accused by members of different political entities of various ideological crimes. The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday, from 10:00am to 9:00pm.

Where Nicholas II was Executed

On July, 17, 1918, during this reign of terror of the Russian Civil War, former-tsar Nicholas II, his wife, five children (the 13-year-old Alexis, 22-year-old Olga, 19-year-old Maria and 17-year-old Anastasia)the family physician, the cook, maid, and valet were shot to death by a Red Army firing squad in the cellar of the house they were staying at in Yekaterinburg.

Ipatiev House (near Church on the Blood, Ulitsa Libknekhta) was a merchant's house where Nicholas II and his family were executed. The house was demolished in 1977, on the orders of an up and coming communist politician named Boris Yeltsin. Yeltsin later said that the destruction of the house was an "act of barbarism" and he had no choice because he had been ordered to do it by the Politburo,

The site is marked with s cross with the photos of the family members and cross bearing their names. A small wooden church was built at the site. It contains paintings of the family. For a while there were seven traditional wooden churches. Mass is given ay noon everyday in an open-air museum. The Church on the Blood — constructed to honor Nicholas II and his family — was built on the part of the site in 1991 and is now a major place of pilgrimage.

Nicholas and his family where killed during the Russian civil war. It is thought the Bolsheviks figured that Nicholas and his family gave the Whites figureheads to rally around and they were better of dead. Even though the death orders were signed Yakov Sverdlov, the assassination was personally ordered by Lenin, who wanted to get them out of sight and out of mind. Trotsky suggested a trial. Lenin nixed the idea, deciding something had to be done about the Romanovs before White troops approached Yekaterinburg. Trotsky later wrote: "The decision was not only expedient but necessary. The severity of he punishment showed everyone that we would continue to fight on mercilessly, stopping at nothing."

Ian Frazier wrote in The New Yorker: “Having read a lot about the end of Tsar Nicholas II and his family and servants, I wanted to see the place in Yekaterinburg where that event occurred. The gloomy quality of this quest depressed Sergei’s spirits, but he drove all over Yekaterinburg searching for the site nonetheless. Whenever he stopped and asked a pedestrian how to get to the house where Nicholas II was murdered, the reaction was a wince. Several people simply walked away. But eventually, after a lot of asking, Sergei found the location. It was on a low ridge near the edge of town, above railroad tracks and the Iset River. The house, known as the Ipatiev House, was no longer standing, and the basement where the actual killings happened had been filled in. I found the blankness of the place sinister and dizzying. It reminded me of an erasure done so determinedly that it had worn a hole through the page. [Source: Ian Frazier, The New Yorker, August 3, 2009, Frazier is author of “Travels in Siberia” (2010)]

“The street next to the site is called Karl Liebknecht Street. A building near where the house used to be had a large green advertisement that said, in English, “LG—Digitally Yours.” On an adjoining lot, a small chapel kept the memory of the Tsar and his family; beneath a pedestal holding an Orthodox cross, peonies and pansies grew. The inscription on the pedestal read, “We go down on our knees, Russia, at the foot of the tsarist cross.”

Books: The Romanovs: The Final Chapter by Robert K. Massie (Random House, 1995); The Fall of the Romanovs by Mark D. Steinberg and Vladimir Khrustalëv (Yale, 1995);

See Separate Article END OF NICHOLAS II factsanddetails.com

Execution of Nicholas II

According to Robert Massie K. Massie, author of Nicholas and Alexandra, Nicholas II and his family were awakened from their bedrooms around midnight and taken to the basement. They were told they were to going to take some photographs of them and were told to stand behind a row of chairs.

Suddenly, a group of 11 Russians and Latvians, each with a revolver, burst into the room with orders to kill a specific person. Yakob Yurovsky, a member of the Soviet executive committee, reportedly shouted "your relatives are continuing to attack the Soviet Union.” After firing, bullets bouncing off gemstones hidden in the corsets of Alexandra and her daughters ricocheted around the room like "a shower of hail," the soldiers said. Those that were still breathing were killed with point black shots to the head.

The three sisters and the maid survived the first round thanks to their gems. They were pressed up against a wall and killed with a second round of bullets. The maid was the only one that survived. She was pursued by the executioners who stabbed her more than 30 times with their bayonets. The still writhing body of Alexis was made still by a kick to the head and two bullets in the ear delivered by Yurovsky himself.

Yurovsky wrote: "When the party entered I told the Romanovs that in view of the fact their relatives continued their offensive against Soviet Russia, the Executive Committee of the Urals Soviet had decided to shoot them. Nicholas turned his back to the detachment and faced his family. Then, as if collecting himself, he turned around, asking, 'What? What?'"

"[I] ordered the detachment to prepare. Its members had been previously instructed whom to shoot and to am directly at the heart to avoid much blood and to end more quickly. Nicholas said no more. he turned again to his family. The others shouted some incoherent exclamations. All this lasted a few seconds. Then commenced the shooting, which went on for two or three minutes. [I] killed Nicholas on the spot."

Nicholas II’s Initial Burial Site in Yekaterinburg

Ganina Yama Monastery (near the village of Koptyaki, 15 kilometers northwest of Yekaterinburg) stands near the three-meter-deep pit where some the remains of Nicholas II and his family were initially buried. The second burial site — where most of the remains were — is in a field known as Porosyonkov (56.9113628°N 60.4954326°E), seven kilometers from Ganina Yama.

On visiting Ganina Yama Monastery, one person posted in Trip Advisor: “We visited this set of churches in a pretty park with Konstantin from Ekaterinburg Guide Centre. He really brought it to life with his extensive knowledge of the history of the events surrounding their terrible end. The story is so moving so unless you speak Russian, it is best to come here with a guide or else you will have no idea of what is what.”

In 1991, the acid-burned remains of Nicholas II and his family were exhumed from a shallow roadside mass grave in a swampy area 12 miles northwest of Yekaterinburg. The remains had been found in 1979 by geologist and amateur archeologist Alexander Avdonin, who kept the location secret out of fear that they would be destroyed by Soviet authorities. The location was disclosed to a magazine by one his fellow discovers.

The original plan was to throw the Romanovs down a mine shaft and disposes of their remains with acid. They were thrown in a mine with some grenades but the mine didn't collapse. They were then carried by horse cart. The vats of acid fell off and broke. When the carriage carrying the bodies broke down it was decided the bury the bodies then and there. The remaining acid was poured on the bones, but most of it was soaked up the ground and the bones largely survived.

After this their pulses were then checked, their faces were crushed to make them unrecognizable and the bodies were wrapped in bed sheets loaded onto a truck. The "whole procedure," Yurovsky said took 20 minutes. One soldiers later bragged than he could "die in peace because he had squeezed the Empress's -------."

The bodies were taken to a forest and stripped, burned with acid and gasoline, and thrown into abandoned mine shafts and buried under railroad ties near a country road near the village of Koptyaki. "The bodies were put in the hole," Yurovsky wrote, "and the faces and all the bodies, generally doused with sulfuric acid, both so they couldn't be recognized and prevent a stink from them rotting...We scattered it with branches and lime, put boards on top and drove over it several times—no traces of the hole remained.

Shortly afterwards, the government in Moscow announced that Nicholas II had been shot because of "a counterrevolutionary conspiracy." There was no immediate word on the other members of the family which gave rise to rumors that other members of the family had escaped. Yekaterinburg was renamed Sverdlov in honor of the man who signed the death orders.

For seven years the remains of Nicholas II, Alexandra, three of their daughters and four servants were stored in polyethylene bags on shelves in the old criminal morgue in Yekaterunburg. On July 17, 1998, Nicholas II and his family and servants who were murdered with him were buried Peter and Paul Fortress in St. Petersburg along with the other Romanov tsars, who have been buried there starting with Peter the Great. Nicholas II had a side chapel built for himself at the fortress in 1913 but was buried in a new crypt.

Near Yekaterinburg

Factory-Museum of Iron and Steel Metallurgy (in Niznhy Tagil 80 kilometers north of Yekaterinburg) a museum with old mining equipment made at the site of huge abandoned iron and steel factory. Officially known as the Factory-Museum of the History of the Development of Iron and Steel Metallurgy, it covers an area of 30 hectares and contains a factory founded by the Demidov family in 1725 that specialized mainly in the production of high-quality cast iron and steel. Later, the foundry was renamed after Valerian Kuybyshev, a prominent figure of the Communist Party.

The first Russian factory museum, the unusual museum demonstrates all stages of metallurgy and metal working. There is even a blast furnace and an open-hearth furnace. The display of factory equipment includes bridge crane from 1892) and rolling stock equipment from the 19th-20th centuries. In Niznhy Tagil contains some huge blocks of malachite and

Nizhnyaya Sinyachikha (180 kilometers east-northeast of Yekaterinburg) has an open air architecture museum with log buildings, a stone church and other pre-revolutionary architecture. The village is the creation of Ivan Samoilov, a local activist who loved his village so much he dedicated 40 years of his life to recreating it as the open-air museum of wooden architecture.

The stone Savior Church, a good example of Siberian baroque architecture. The interior and exterior of the church are exhibition spaces of design. The houses are very colorful. In tsarist times, rich villagers hired serfs to paint the walls of their wooden izbas (houses) bright colors. Old neglected buildings from the 17th to 19th centuries have been brought to Nizhnyaya Sinyachikha from all over the Urals. You will see the interior design of the houses and hear stories about traditions and customs of the Ural farmers.

Verkhoturye (330 kilometers road from Yekaterinburg) is the home a 400-year-old monastery that served as 16th century capital of the Urals. Verkhoturye is a small town on the Tura River knows as the Jerusalem of the Urals for its many holy places, churches and monasteries. The town's main landmark is its Kremlin — the smallest in Russia. Pilgrims visit the St. Nicholas Monastery to see the remains of St. Simeon of Verkhoturye, the patron saint of fishermen.

Ural Mountains

Ural Mountains are the traditional dividing line between Europe and Asia and have been a crossroads of Russian history. Stretching from Kazakhstan to the fringes of the Arctic Kara Sea, the Urals lie almost exactly along the 60 degree meridian of longitude and extend for about 2,000 kilometers (1,300 miles) from north to south and varies in width from about 50 kilometers (30 miles) in the north and 160 kilometers (100 miles) the south. At kilometers 1777 on the Trans-Siberian Railway there is white obelisk with "Europe" carved in Russian on one side and "Asia" carved on the other.

The eastern side of the Urals contains a lot of granite and igneous rock. The western side is primarily sandstone and limestones. A number of precious stones can be found in the southern part of the Urals, including emeralds. malachite, tourmaline, jasper and aquamarines. The highest peaks are in the north. Mount Narodnaya is the highest of all but is only 1884 meters (6,184 feet) high. The northern Urals are covered in thick forests and home to relatively few people.

Like the Appalachian Mountains in the eastern United States, the Urals are very old mountains — with rocks and sediments that are hundreds of millions years old — that were one much taller than they are now and have been steadily eroded down over millions of years by weather and other natural processes to their current size. According to Encyclopedia Britannica: “The rock composition helps shape the topography: the high ranges and low, broad-topped ridges consist of quartzites, schists, and gabbro, all weather-resistant. Buttes are frequent, and there are north–south troughs of limestone, nearly all containing river valleys. Karst topography is highly developed on the western slopes of the Urals, with many caves, basins, and underground streams. The eastern slopes, on the other hand, have fewer karst formations; instead, rocky outliers rise above the flattened surfaces. Broad foothills, reduced to peneplain, adjoin the Central and Southern Urals on the east.

“The Urals date from the structural upheavals of the Hercynian orogeny (about 250 million years ago). About 280 million years ago there arose a high mountainous region, which was eroded to a peneplain. Alpine folding resulted in new mountains, the most marked upheaval being that of the Nether-Polar Urals...The western slope of the Urals is composed of middle Paleozoic sedimentary rocks (sandstones and limestones) that are about 350 million years old. In many places it descends in terraces to the Cis-Ural depression (west of the Urals), to which much of the eroded matter was carried during the late Paleozoic (about 300 million years ago). Found there are widespread karst (a starkly eroded limestone region) and gypsum, with large caverns and subterranean streams. On the eastern slope, volcanic layers alternate with sedimentary strata, all dating from middle Paleozoic times.”

Southern Urals

The southern Urals are characterized by grassy slopes and fertile valleys. The middle Urals are a rolling platform that barely rises above 300 meters (1,000 feet). This region is rich in minerals and has been heavily industrialized. This is where you can find Yekaterinburg (formally Sverdlovsk), the largest city in the Urals.

Most of the Southern Urals are is covered with forests, with 50 percent of that pine-woods, 44 percent birch woods, and the rest are deciduous aspen and alder forests. In the north, typical taiga forests are the norm. There are patches of herbal-poaceous steppes, northem sphagnous marshes and bushy steppes, light birch forests and shady riparian forests, tall-grass mountainous meadows, lowland ling marshes and stony placers with lichen stains. In some places there are no large areas of homogeneous forests, rather they are forests with numerous glades and meadows of different size.

In the Ilmensky Mountains Reserve in the Southern Urals, scientists counted 927 vascular plants (50 relicts, 23 endemic species), about 140 moss species, 483 algae species and 566 mushroom species. Among the species included into the Red Book of Russia are feather grass, downy-leaved feather grass, Zalessky feather grass, moccasin flower, ladies'-slipper, neottianthe cucullata, Baltic orchis, fen orchis, helmeted orchis, dark-winged orchis, Gelma sandwart, Krasheninnikov sandwart, Clare astragalus.

The fauna of the vertebrate animals in the Reserve includes 19 fish, 5 amphibian and 5 reptile. Among the 48 mammal species are elks, roe deer, boars, foxes, wolves, lynxes, badgers, common weasels, least weasels, forest ferrets, Siberian striped weasel, common marten, American mink. Squirrels, beavers, muskrats, hares, dibblers, moles, hedgehogs, voles are quite common, as well as chiropterans: pond bat, water bat, Brandt's bat, whiskered bat, northern bat, long-eared bat, parti-coloured bat, Nathusius' pipistrelle. The 174 bird bird species include white-tailed eagles, honey hawks, boreal owls, gnome owls, hawk owls, tawny owls, common scoters, cuckoos, wookcocks, common grouses, wood grouses, hazel grouses, common partridges, shrikes, goldenmountain thrushes, black- throated loons and others.

Activities and Places in the Ural Mountains

The Urals possess beautiful natural scenery that can be accessed from Yekaterinburg with a rent-a-car, hired taxi and tour. Travel agencies arrange rafting, kayaking and hiking trips. Hikes are available in the taiga forest and the Urals. Trips often include walks through the taiga to small lakes and hikes into the mountains and excursions to collect mushrooms and berries and climb in underground caves. Mellow rafting is offered in a relatively calm six kilometer section of the River Serga. In the winter visitor can enjoy cross-mountains skiing, downhill skiing, ice fishing, dog sledding, snow-shoeing and winter hiking through the forest to a cave covered with ice crystals.

Lake Shartash (10 kilometers from Yekaterinburg) is where the first Ural gold was found, setting in motion the Yekaterinburg gold rush of 1745, which created so much wealth one rich baron of that time hosted a wedding party that lasted a year. The area around Shartash Lake is a favorite picnic and barbecue spot of the locals. Getting There: by bus route No. 50, 054 or 54, with a transfer to suburban commuter bus route No. 112, 120 or 121 (the whole trip takes about an hour), or by car (10 kilometers drive from the city center, 40 minutes).

Revun Rapids (90 kilometers road from Yekaterinburg near Beklenishcheva village) is a popular white water rafting places On the nearby cliffs you can see the remains of a mysterious petroglyph from the Paleolithic period. Along the steep banks, you may notice the dark entrance of Smolinskaya Cave. There are legends of a sorceress who lived in there. The rocks at the riverside are suited for competitive rock climbers and beginners. Climbing hooks and rings are hammered into rocks. The most fun rafting is generally in May and June.

Olenii Ruchii National Park (100 kilometers west of Yekaterinburg) is the most popular nature park in Sverdlovsk Oblast and popular weekend getaway for Yekaterinburg residents. Visitors are attracted by the beautiful forests, the crystal clear Serga River and picturesque rocks caves. There are some easy hiking routes: the six-kilometer Lesser Ring and the 15-kilometer Greater Ring. Another route extends for 18 km and passes by the Mitkinsky Mine, which operated in the 18th-19th centuries. It's a kind of an open-air museum — you can still view mining an enrichment equipment here. There is also a genuine beaver dam nearby.

Among the other attractions at Olenii Ruchii are Druzhba (Friendship) Cave, with passages that extend for about 500 meters; Dyrovaty Kamen (Holed Stone), created over time by water of Serga River eroding rock; and Utoplennik (Drowned Man), where you can see “The Angel of Sole Hope”., created by the Swedish artist Lehna Edwall, who has placed seven angels figures in different parts of the world to “embrace the planet, protecting it from fear, despair, and disasters.”

Image Sources: Wikimedia Commons

Text Sources: Federal Agency for Tourism of the Russian Federation (official Russia tourism website russiatourism.ru ), Russian government websites, UNESCO, Wikipedia, Lonely Planet guides, New York Times, Washington Post, Los Angeles Times, National Geographic, The New Yorker, Bloomberg, Reuters, Associated Press, AFP, Yomiuri Shimbun and various books and other publications.

Updated in September 2020

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Deleted user Jeff, I think it would be a fun project to do...one day maybe, he said wistfully.
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  4. 24' Tasman Junk Rigged Yacht Plans

    SKU: SEL-24TASMAN. Availability: Printed plans shipped and PDF plans emailed from Selway Fisher. $34.00 - $540.00. Type of plans: Required Full Plans Study Plans. Plan format: Required PDF (to be emailed) Printed (sent by post) Quantity: Decrease Quantity of 24' Tasman Junk Rigged Yacht Plans.

  5. GHBoats Scamp Rigging Tutorial

    A full tutorial on rigging Gig Harbor Boat Works balanced-lug Scamp sailboat.Learn more about the Scamp at https://ghboats.com/12-scamp/

  6. Rigging a SCAMP Sailboat part1

    Tie your line to the deck block becket using a bowline knot. Pass the line through the single block and back down through the deck block and cleat it to the cam cleat you installed earlier. You can now tighten the downhaul and it will pull the boom and sail down. The set up gives you a 2:1 mechanical advantage.

  7. Steps in Building a SCAMP Sailboat from Plans

    Installing the bow eye. Making the portholes/deadlights. Oar Socket Placement. Making the SCAMP mast. Turning SCAMP over. Sanding, marking waterline and Painting outside of hull. Finishing shaping the Bottom. Making the centreboard. Centreboard pivot and details.

  8. Scamp Balanced-Lug Rigging Tutorial

    See You at Anacortes Boat & Yacht Show, May 16-18! Contact Us. Phone: (253) 851-2126. Click here to send us an e-mail. Showroom Address: 9905 Peacock Hill Ave. Gig Harbor, WA 98332. Open Monday-Friday 9 am - 5 pm (Pacific time) Saturdays by appointment only.

  9. SCAMP Review in Small Craft Advisor Magazine!

    Exciting news that's been a long time coming . . . the Small Craft Advisor magazine released their first formal review of the SCAMP! For a bit of backstory, the SCAMP, which stands for Small Craft Advisor Magazine Project, was originally conceived by the magazine as a kit boat that would meet the needs of adventurous small craft sailors.It was designed by a team of passionate and ...

  10. Rigging the SCAMP Sailboat Argo

    Rigging the SCAMP Yard. First, I unpacked my Neil Pryde Tanbark SCAMP Sail and laid the spars in position to get an overall look at the rig. Then I lashed on the peak of the sail to the top of the yard. Next I laced the top edge of the sail to the yard, with one long rope. Then I lashed the throat cringle to the yard end, being sure to lash to ...

  11. Duckworks

    SCAMP has plenty of freeboard, lots of dry stowage, a self draining cockpit-and for safety's sake a huge amount of air-tank buoyancy. ... small boat that would otherwise be bounced around by the waves and powerboat wakes in a big boat anchorage. The rig is a simple balanced lugsail. I'd expect the boat to be ready to launch within 15 minutes of ...

  12. The Junk Rig Association

    The JRA (Junk Rig Association), formed in 1980, aims to further the development of the junk rig and to create an international community of people interested in such rigs to share experience and ideas.

  13. Build Log of the SCAMP Sailboat Argo

    Jason died when later in life he was sleeping under the Argo and it fell on him. Specifications of the SCAMP that I built: Rig: Balanced Lug Rig (Lugger) LOA: 11 ft 11 in (3.63 m) Beam: 5 ft 4 in (1.63 m) Draft: 7 in (180 mm) with centerboard and rudder up. Hull weight: 420 lb (190 kg) (including rig)

  14. Announcing the SCAMP

    SCAMP is an eminently capable micro-cruiser commissioned by Small Craft Advisor magazine, designed by John Welsford. Only 12 feet long, yet the feel of a larger boat. High freeboard, hard chines and full ends give lots of buoyancy and carrying capacity. 178 pounds of water ballast. Flat bottom with keelsons tracks surprisingly well and sits ...

  15. SCAMP Camp

    Cost: Tuition for the ten day virtual Camp is $875.00 (A $1,000 savings over in person SCAMP Camp's) The Kit: Contact Small Craft Advisor/Duckworks to order your kit, which will then be shipped to the build location of you're choice. WWW.DUCKWORKS.COM. 2024 SCALLYWAG CAMP. June 24th- July 5th, 2024.

  16. SCAMP

    It takes into consideration "reported" sail area, displacement and length at waterline. The higher the number the faster speed prediction for the boat. A cat with a number 0.6 is likely to sail 6kts in 10kts wind, a cat with a number of 0.7 is likely to sail at 7kts in 10kts wind. KSP = (Lwl*SA÷D)^0.5*0.5

  17. Flag of Yekaterinburg, Sverdlovsk Oblast, Russia : r/vexillology

    Business, Economics, and Finance. GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla. Crypto

  18. 30 Best Things To Do In Yekaterinburg, Russia

    14. Visit the Old Water Tower. Source: Photo by Wikimedia Commons user Dom kobb used under CC BY-SA 3.0. The old water tower is one of Yekaterinburg's oldest structures dating back to the 1800s and stands as a monument of industrial architecture. It is one of the city's endearing symbols.

  19. 12' Scamp

    The Scamp is a seaworthy 12′ sailboat that can handle a good dose of adventure. Just under 12 feet in length, Scamp boasts an unusual combination of features that give her the unique ability to explore waters too shallow for a larger boat, while retaining most of the bigger boat's comforts and capabilities. An offset centerboard opens up ...

  20. For sale 1 Bedroom, EKATERINBURG, Sverdlovsk Oblast, Russian Federation

    For sale - Cod. 29133. Tipology: 1 Bedroom Area: 43 m² Rooms No.: 1 Floor: 13 Publication date announcement: 26/08/2016 Hello, we are the owners, Irina and Oleg. We sell a bright, comfortable and very beautiful flat, designed in a Scandinavian style.

  21. YEKATERINBURG: FACTORIES, URAL SIGHTS, YELTSIN AND ...

    SVERDLOVSK OBLAST. Sverdlovsk Oblast is the largest region in the Urals; it lies in the foothills of mountains and contains a monument indicating the border between Europe and Asia.

  22. The Junk Rig Association

    The JRA (Junk Rig Association), formed in 1980, aims to further the development of the junk rig and to create an international community of people interested in such rigs to share experience and ideas.