sailboat wind vane self steering

Steering the dream

Hydrovane is your best crew member: an independent self-steering windvane and emergency rudder/steering system... ready to go!

Hydrovane will fit any cruising boat!

Off-center installations are the norm!

Doubles as Emergency Rudder/Steering!

True Stories

Golden Globe Update Day 113:

[GGR Leader Jean-Luc Van Den Heede sailing the Rustler 36 Matmut] was full of praise for his Hydrovane self-steering. “In a gale it has a big advantage because it is not steering the boat’s rudder, but has its own. This little rudder is far more efficient than the big rudder.”

– Jean Luc Van Den Heede on satellite phone call

“I am happy I did install the Hydrovane, especially that I saw on YouTube that at the same time 2 sailboats almost the same size as mine with the same problem. The crew had to abandon the the ships and left both boats in the middle of the Atlantic and lost everything … again thanks to the Hydrovane. It saved my boat.”

– Jacques Glaser, Amel Mango 52

“My wife and I have just completed a two month cruise with our new Hydrovane and it has performed beyond all expectations… If cruising I wouldn’t go to sea without one: strong, simple, reliable, an emergency helm and an extra crew member who never complains and doesn’t need a watch system.”

– Pete Goss, MBE, Frances 34

“So, I must tell you, and I mean this sincerely, the Hydrovane is simply a game changer for Quetzal. It’s just great and performs better than I expected… One other feature of the vane that I really appreciate is that it eases the load on the rudder and rudder bearings.”

– John Krestchmaer, Kaufman 47

“With just two of us on board, I wanted a system that was simple and effective to operate, and it has exceeded my most optimistic expectations by a considerable margin. It truly is our third crew member.”

– John Mennem, Jeanneau 45.2

“…it is still the most technically elegant solution i have ever seen for a wind vane… I was clawing off a lee shore on one side, and islands on another – winds were reported at 55 knots, and waves in the region were at least ‘boat length’ high and quite steep with the currents. This was an awful night and I was very afraid for myself, the boat and my equipment – I had new found respect, trust and comfort in the Hydrovane after that.”

– Steve De Maio, Contessa 26

In this recent Pacific crossing, the Hydrovane kept us on course (relative to the wind, of course) for several days at a time, requiring no tweaking or attention at all. If you can balance your boat and twist a dial, you can successfully operate a Hydrovane. Don’t leave home without one!

– Bill Ennis, Passport 40

“For the first time, we had to run downwind, under bare poles in gale force 8 conditions, with gusts to 50 knots – and don’t get me started on the sea conditions! Have you ever swallowed your tongue? Oh, and iVane, our wind-steering partner. What a gem! It steered 230 hard miles without even nut rations.”

– Brian Anderson, Hallberg Rassy 40

“The additional cash to purchase a windvane was almost too much… Just how good is this ‘Hydrovane’ anyway?”

After 29,000+ miles: “We’ve said to each many times that without doubt the most valuable piece of equipment on board was Casper – best purchase EVER. I will never own an offshore boat again that does not have this device.”

– Ryan Robertson, T 40

Swim Step / Sugar Scoop

External rudder, watt&sea bracket, other products.

Watt&Sea Hydrogenerator

Echo Tec Watermaker

Happy Halloween! This costume may have been for a different occasion but relevant nonetheless! 👻 “After seeing what Taurus [the Hydrovane] does for us [my friend] fell in love with him too. So much so that when the crew dressed up for the equator crossing, she dressed up as a Hydrovane!” - Norlin 37 owner 🙌🙌 ... See More See Less

• Comments: 2

2 Comments Comment on Facebook

Hi, can u reach me up via WhatsApp? My phone number is +56999728041 Txs

How times change just thought I’d send you this video that somebody sent me that bought a Hydrovane ❤️x

Well that was a fun night. 🎉 Thanks International Cruisers Awards Young Cruisers' Association for bringing together so many inspirational sailors and story tellers! Get out there and chase the wind ⛵️ #cruiserawards #youngcruisers #internationalcruiserawards #seapeople #annapolis #USBoatShow #hydrovane ... See More See Less

• Comments: 0

0 Comments Comment on Facebook

#repost from @kirstenggr ⛵️ “Thinking back on the sailing, and missing it! Thanks to @ hydrovane for having serviced Minnehaha's hydrovane , which did about 45 000 nm before having any major overhaul - possibly more than any hydrovane has ever done before without a significant service. It saw Kirsten and Minnehaha all the way through the GGR and over the finish line! The unit is as good as new again, and it was smooth sailing all the way down to Madeira! Also, a big thanks to Eddie Arsenault, for having built such a solid mounting bracket for the hydrovane ! Without Eddie, Minnehaha would just not be the strong boat that she is today!” ... See More See Less

Wow, absolutely so proud my fathers invention and so glad everybody is so still going strong with this after so many years!! It is so lovely to see !❤️

Any photos of the mount Eddie made?

Thank you Kirsten Neuschäfer ! You are an inspiration. The Hydrovane loves sailing as much as you do 😀 Kudos to Eddie for the rock solid install! Thinking back on the sailing, and missing it! Thanks to Hydrovane International Marine for having serviced Minnehaha's hydrovane, which did about 45 000 nm before having any major overhaul - possibly more than any hydrovane has ever done before without a significant service. It saw Kirsten and Minnehaha all the way through the GGR and over the finish line! The unit is as good as new again, and it was smooth sailing all the way down to Madeira! Also, a big thanks to Eddie Arsenault, for having built such a solid mounting bracket for the hydrovane! Without Eddie, Minnehaha would just not be the strong boat that she is today! ... See More See Less

Hydrovane is my most trusted crewman.

Lee Colledge Shaun Colledge see what you have built 💪 👌

Once upon a time under spinnaker between Niue and Tonga 😍 ... See More See Less

This week we sailed from Lemvig Denmark to Vlieland Netherlands. 270nm and a tough journey for us and without the Hydrovane it really wouldn't have been possible for us. It gives us peace of mind while sailing and can no longer do without it. Boat is a Barbican 33.

Wow absolutely lovely,my Father would be absolutely so proud ❤️

Wind Vane Self Steering: The Ultimate Guide

by Emma Sullivan | Jul 20, 2023 | Sailboat Gear and Equipment

Short answer: wind vane self steering

Wind vane self steering is a mechanical device used on sailboats to maintain a desired course without the need for continuous manual adjustment. It utilizes the force of the wind and a vertical axis to steer the boat by adjusting the position of the rudder.

How Wind Vane Self Steering Works: A Comprehensive Guide

Title: How Wind Vane Self-Steering Works: A Comprehensive Guide to Sailboat Autonomy

Introduction: Sailing is the epitome of freedom, embracing the unpredictable elements as we navigate vast oceans. However, when embarking on long journeys or overnight trips, the need for reliable self-steering systems arises. Enter wind vane self-steering! In this comprehensive guide, we will delve into this ingenious system, explaining its principles and mechanics while highlighting its benefits for seafaring enthusiasts. So hoist your sails and embark on a journey of knowledge as we unravel the inner workings of wind vane self-steering.

Chapter 1: The Basics of Wind Vane Self-Steering 1.1 Understanding Sailboats’ Balancing Act: – Explaining the importance of maintaining equilibrium between the sail and rudder configurations. – Highlighting challenges faced when manually helming during long passages.

1.2 Introduction to Wind Vanes: – Defining the wind vane as an autonomous steering mechanism driven by apparent wind direction. – Detailing their various components such as vanes, sensors, gears, and linkages.

Chapter 2: Principles Behind Wind Vanes 2.1 Apparent vs True Wind: – Unveiling the distinction between apparent and true wind direction. – Describing how wind vanes utilize apparent wind to adjust course.

2.2 Weight vs Force Systems: – Distinguishing weight-driven systems (servo pendulum) from force-driven ones (auxiliary rudder). – Discussing pros and cons of each system in different sailing conditions.

Chapter 3: Mechanics of Wind Vane Self-Steering 3.1 Servo Pendulum System: – Unveiling the engineering marvels behind servo pendulum systems. – Analyzing their interaction with changing winds and seas.

3.2 Auxiliary Rudder Systems: – Detailing the mechanism of auxiliary rudder systems, their hydrodynamics, and adjustability. – Discussing how they maintain sailboat course while minimizing yaw.

Chapter 4: Installation and Utilization Tips 4.1 Installing Wind Vanes on Different Sailboats: – Providing step-by-step instructions for mounting wind vanes. – Highlighting considerations for various boat designs and sizes.

4.2 Calibration and Fine-Tuning: – Elaborating on the importance of accurate calibration to ensure precise steering. – Offering pro tips to optimize performance under different sailing conditions.

Chapter 5: Advantages and Limitations 5.1 Benefits of Wind Vane Self-Steering: – Presenting the advantages of autonomy, reduced energy consumption, and enhanced safety during long-haul sailing trips.

5.2 Considerations in Complex Sailing Conditions: – Identifying limitations related to challenging weather patterns or narrow channels, necessitating manual intervention.

Conclusion – Navigating the Open Seas with Confidence: Wind vane self-steering systems revolutionize long-distance sailing by providing sailors with a reliable automated alternative to constant helming. Understanding the principles, mechanics, and installation tips outlined in this comprehensive guide will empower seafarers to navigate vast oceans with confidence, leaving them more time to revel in the beauty of their surroundings. Embrace the freedom that wind vane self-steering offers–the transformative companion for every true sailor!

Wind Vane Self Steering Explained: Step by Step Process

When it comes to sailing, one of the most essential tools for achieving steady and reliable course keeping is a wind vane self-steering system. This mechanism harnesses the power of the wind to effectively steer the vessel autonomously, ensuring sailors can enjoy a smoother and more hands-free sailing experience. In this blog post, we will delve into the step-by-step process of how wind vane self-steering works, unraveling its inner workings and highlighting its benefits.

Step 1: Understanding the Basics

Before we dive into the intricacies, let’s start with the fundamentals. A wind vane self-steering system consists of three main components: a wind vane, a linkage mechanism, and auxiliary steering gear. The wind vane acts as a sensory organ that detects changes in wind direction while transmitting these signals to the linkage mechanism. The linkage mechanism then translates those signals into appropriate movements, which are eventually transmitted to auxiliary steering gear responsible for adjusting sail trim or rudder angle.

Step 2: Wind Vane Sensitivity Adjustment

Once you’ve set up your wind vane self-steering system on board your yacht or sailboat, it’s crucial to fine-tune its sensitivity for optimal performance. By adjusting the weight distribution or adding counterweights to your wind vane, you can achieve precise responsiveness according to prevailing weather conditions. This careful calibration ensures that even subtle nuances in wind direction are accurately detected by the wind vane.

Step 3: Setting Course

Now that your system is finely tuned, it’s time to set your desired course manually using traditional methods such as compass bearings or GPS coordinates. Aligning your vessel towards this designated course provides initial guidance for your wind vane self-steerer.

Step 4: Autonomy Engaged

As soon as you activate your wind vane self-steering gear, you enable an autonomous sailor’s best friend. Once the wind vane starts detecting any deviations from your initial course, it sends signals to the linkage mechanism, instructing it to make corrections. This process ensures that your vessel automatically adjusts its heading to maintain the desired course against external factors such as wind shifts or gusts.

Step 5: Continuous Monitoring

While wind vane self-steering handles most course corrections independently, it does require regular monitoring to avoid any potential issues and make minor adjustments as needed. It is crucial to stay vigilant and keep an eye on how your self-steering system performs with changing wind conditions and other environmental factors.

Benefits of Wind Vane Self-Steering

Now that we’ve dived into the step-by-step process of wind vane self-steering, let’s explore its advantages:

1. Hands-free Sailing: With a properly calibrated and functioning wind vane self-steering system, sailors can free themselves from continuously holding the helm, affording a more relaxed sailing experience.

2. Increased Safety: Wind vane self-steering reduces fatigue in long ocean crossings by maintaining a steady course, minimizing human error risk at times when crew members might be physically exhausted.

3. Energy Efficiency: By utilizing the power of nature (the wind), a wind vane self-steerer requires no fuel consumption or electricity input for operation, making it an environmentally friendly and cost-effective solution for long-distance voyages.

In conclusion, the step-by-step process behind a wind vane self-steering system involves understanding the basics of its components, adjusting sensitivity levels, setting an initial course manually while enabling autonomy through continuous monitoring. This technology not only enhances safety but also allows sailors to enjoy hands-free sailing while embracing Mother Nature’s forces to keep their vessels on track efficiently. So why not embrace this clever innovation and sail away into effortless adventure?

Frequently Asked Questions about Wind Vane Self Steering

Frequently Asked Questions about Wind Vane Self Steering: Unlocking the Secrets to Effortless Sailing

If you’ve ever been on a sailing adventure or have spent any time around seasoned sailors, you’ve likely heard of wind vane self steering devices. These ingenious contraptions have sparked curiosity and interest among many sailing enthusiasts, but like any new concept, questions tend to arise. In this blog post, we will dive deep into the frequently asked questions surrounding wind vane self steering systems and shed light on their working principles. Get ready to unravel the science behind these mechanical marvels!

Q1: What exactly is a wind vane self-steering system?

A wind vane self-steering system is a mechanism designed to keep a sailing vessel on course without manual intervention from the helmsman. This device utilizes the power of the wind to maintain a steady heading even in challenging weather conditions. By harnessing wind pressure and utilizing specially shaped vanes, wind vane self-steering systems elegantly counterbalance forces acting on sails and rudders.

Q2: How does a wind vane self-steering system work?

The operation of a wind vane self-steering system revolves around one fundamental principle—using apparent wind angles and force to steer the boat. Typically mounted at the stern of a vessel, these systems consist of an arrow-shaped vane that reacts to changes in apparent wind direction. As the breeze shifts or fluctuates in intensity, subtle movements in the vane are transmitted via lines or linkage mechanisms to adjust the position of an auxiliary rudder at the boat’s stern.

When the boat begins deviating from its intended course due to shifting winds, turbulence, or waves, this auxiliary rudder automatically adjusts itself according to variations in apparent wind angles detected by the main vane. Consequently, as long as there is sufficient breeze available for propulsion, these systems effectively maintain precise navigation even during extended periods at sea. It’s like having an invisible helmsman tirelessly steering your vessel, allowing you to relax and enjoy the journey.

Q3: Are wind vane self-steering systems compatible with all types of boats?

Wind vane self-steering systems are highly versatile and can be installed on a wide range of sailboats. Whether you have a small, single-handed cruiser or a larger ocean-going yacht, there is likely a system that suits your vessel. The main considerations when choosing the right wind vane self-steering system for your boat include size, weight, balance, and how well it integrates with the existing rigging setup. Manufacturers provide detailed guidelines and support to ensure compatibility with various boat designs.

Q4: Can wind vane self-steering systems handle different weather conditions?

Absolutely! Wind vane self-steering systems are designed to thrive in diverse weather conditions and adapt to changing environments. Whether you’re facing calm seas or rough waters with strong winds, these remarkable devices remain stable and steadfast in their coursekeeping abilities. However, it is essential to learn about any limitations specific to the model you choose based on sailing experience and intended use.

Q5: Are wind vane self-steering systems difficult to install?

While installing a wind vane self-steering system may require some technical know-how, most reputable manufacturers provide comprehensive manuals and guidance materials tailored for DIY installations. However, if you prefer professional assistance or lack the confidence in setting it up yourself, seeking help from expert marine technicians is always an option worth considering.

In conclusion, wind vane self-steering systems offer sailors an unprecedented level of autonomy on their voyages by effortlessly maintaining course while they sit back and take in the panoramic beauty around them. Their ingenious working principles elegantly leverage wind power to navigate through uncharted waters. Embracing one of these marvels on your own sailing adventure might just be the key to unlocking new levels of sailing satisfaction. So, batten down the hatches, set your sails, and let the wind vane self-steering system be your faithful navigator on this extraordinary journey!

Mastering the Art of Wind Vane Self Steering: Tips and Techniques

For sailors navigating the vast blue oceans, wind vane self-steering systems are an invaluable tool. These impressive devices not only alleviate the stress of manual helm control but also empower sailors to sail solo or in small crews with ease. However, mastering the art of wind vane self-steering requires more than just installing the equipment – it demands practice, knowledge, and a cunning understanding of its intricacies. In this blog post, we will delve into the depths of wind vane self-steering, providing you with tips and techniques that will have you sailing like a seasoned pro.

Understanding the Basics:

To begin our journey towards mastering wind vane self-steering, let’s start by unraveling its fundamentals. A wind vane self-steering system essentially functions based on an aerodynamic principle: it utilizes changing winds to adjust your boat’s course automatically. The device consists of a wind vane mounted atop your vessel’s stern along with various lines and connections to your ship’s wheel or tiller.

1. Sail Trim is Key:

Properly adjusting your sails plays a crucial role in maximizing the efficiency of your wind vane self-steering system. Ideally, before engaging the device, ensure that your sails are appropriately trimmed for optimal performance based on existing weather conditions. Fine-tuning this aspect will allow for smoother operation and minimize any unnecessary strain on both boat and gear.

2. Get Acquainted with Your System:

Understanding how every component in your wind vane self-steering system works is vital for seamless operation. Familiarize yourself with all cables, lines, blocks, attaching points, and mechanical adjustments within your setup through careful study of instructions provided by manufacturers. Additionally, consider practicing installation and removal procedures before setting sail to save time during maintenance or repairs at sea.

3. Devise Efficient Linkages:

Connecting your wind vane to the ship’s wheel or tiller requires creating a linkage mechanism that transmits the vane’s signals accurately. Carefully select and adjust mechanical linkages, ensuring that they offer proper responsiveness and minimal play. Remember, any slack in these connections will decrease accuracy and compromise performance.

4. Experiment with Tension:

Fine-tuning the tension on your wind vane’s lines is essential for achieving optimal response. Experiment by adjusting the tension – both tightness and looseness – of these lines based on prevailing conditions such as wave heights, wind strength, course changes, or boat speeds. This flexibility allows you to adapt your wind vane self-steering system according to real-time situations and enhance its efficiency.

5. Observe Nature’s Cues:

Nature can be an exceptional teacher when it comes to utilizing wind vane self-steering systems effectively. Observing how wind shifts affect your vessel’s course during different weather patterns will help you develop a keen sense of understanding impending changes in wind direction. By balancing this observation with data from meteorological sources or barometers, you can anticipate shifts ahead of time, allowing for precise adjustments even before they happen.

6. Make Incremental Adjustments:

Once your wind vane self-steering system is activated, it is essential not to make abrupt adjustments unless absolutely necessary. Instead, opt for small incremental changes when altering course or sail trim. Gradual adaptations ensure smoother transitions without overwhelming the device with sudden demands.

7. Continuously Monitor Performance:

Constant vigilance is key while learning to master your wind vane self-steering system completely. Continuously monitor its performance by observing your boat’s behavior relative to sea conditions (weather helm, leeway). Appropriate awareness combined with timely tweaks ensures efficient operation throughout extended voyages.

8. Seek Expert Advice:

When seeking mastery over any subject matter, there is no substitute for expertise gained through experience and shared wisdom. Engage with sailing communities, forums, or seek advice from seasoned sailors who have honed their skills in wind vane self-steering. Their firsthand experiences and clever tricks will provide invaluable insights to propel your learning curve forward.

In conclusion, mastering the art of wind vane self-steering is a journey that requires practice, experimentation, and understanding. By grasping the basics, fine-tuning sail trim, learning your system inside-out, observing nature’s cues, and making incremental adjustments while monitoring performance attentively, you can unlock the true potential of this remarkable piece of sailing technology. So hoist your sails high and let the wind vane guide you towards a new realm of solo or small crew sailing prowess!

Choosing the Right Wind Vane Self Steering System for Your Boat

When it comes to sailing, there’s nothing quite like the feeling of gliding through the open waters, with the wind in your hair and the sun on your face. However, navigating a boat can be a challenging task, especially when you’re all alone out on the vast ocean. That’s where wind vane self steering systems come into play.

A wind vane self steering system is an invaluable piece of equipment that allows sailors to maintain course without having to constantly adjust their sails or helm. This automated system harnesses the power of the wind to steer the boat, freeing up valuable time and energy for sailors to focus on other important tasks.

But with so many different options available on the market, how do you choose the right wind vane self-steering system for your boat? Here are some key factors to consider:

1. Boat Size and Weight: The first thing you need to take into account is the size and weight of your boat. Wind vane self-steering systems come in various sizes designed to accommodate different vessels. It’s important to choose a system that is specifically built for boats within your size range to ensure optimal performance and stability.

2. Ease of Installation: As a sailor, you want a wind vane self-steering system that can be easily installed without requiring extensive modifications or additional support structures. Look for systems that come with clear installation instructions and minimal hardware requirements.

3. Weather Conditions: Sailors know that weather conditions can change rapidly at sea. Therefore, it’s essential to select a wind vane self-steering system that can handle a wide range of weather conditions – from light breezes to heavy winds and high seas. Look for systems that are durable and capable of maintaining control even in challenging weather scenarios.

4. Sensitivity Adjustment: Every boat handles differently based on its design and load distribution. To ensure precise control, choose a wind vane self-steering system that allows you to adjust its sensitivity to match your boat’s characteristics. This flexibility will enable you to fine-tune the system for optimal performance and responsiveness.

5. Reliability and Durability: When you’re out on the open water, you rely heavily on your equipment. Therefore, selecting a wind vane self-steering system from reputable manufacturers known for their reliability and durability is crucial. Look for systems made from high-quality materials that can withstand the harsh marine environment for years to come.

6. Cost: While cost should never be the sole determining factor, it’s still an important consideration when choosing a wind vane self-steering system for your boat. Evaluate different options and compare their features, performance, and price tags to find the best value for your money.

Now, armed with these essential considerations, you can embark on finding the perfect wind vane self-steering system that suits your boat and sailing needs. Remember to carefully research different products and consult with fellow sailors or experts if needed. With the right wind vane self-steering system onboard your boat, you’ll experience smoother sailing adventures like never before!

Troubleshooting Common Issues with Wind Vane Self Steering

Introduction:

Wind vane self-steering systems are a remarkable solution for sailors aiming to harness the power of the wind to navigate their vessels. By allowing the wind to guide the boat’s rudder, these systems reduce manual effort and provide a more reliable means of steering. However, like any piece of equipment, wind vane self-steering systems can sometimes encounter common issues that require troubleshooting. In this blog post, we will delve into some possible problems and provide professional, witty, and clever explanations on how to overcome them.

1. Lack of responsiveness: One frustrating issue that sailors may encounter with wind vane self-steering is a lack of responsiveness. If your system seems sluggish or fails to react promptly to changes in the wind direction, there are a few potential causes.

Explanation: Just like us humans after an indulgent Thanksgiving dinner, wind vanes can become lethargic too! The most common culprit for unresponsiveness is excessive friction within the system caused by wear or improper lubrication. To tackle this issue, start by giving your system a good inspection. Look for any signs of wear on bearings and joints while applying lubrication generously where needed (Think spa day for your wind vane). If this fails to resolve the problem, it might be worth checking if any foreign objects or debris have made their way into critical components – just imagine trying to navigate gingerly during peak pollen season!

2. Oscillations and instability: Unwanted oscillations or instability in your self-steering system can make sailing feel like riding a bucking bronco! This issue can be concerning and potentially dangerous if left unresolved.

Explanation: Imagine you are attempting to steer straight but your trusty wind vane has gained an affinity for dancing instead – quite embarrassing! The primary reason behind oscillations and instability is often an imbalance between sensitivity settings and sail trim (imagine mismatched dance partners). Adjusting both variables can help find the sweet spot. Additionally, thicker or heavier sails may contribute to excessive oscillations, so it might be time to reassess your sail wardrobe and consider adopting a lighter ensemble for smoother sailing (we all deserve a wardrobe makeover now and then!).

3. Misalignment and wandering: Has your wind vane suddenly decided to become an explorer, sailing in any direction other than the one you intended? Misalignment and wandering can occur due to various factors.

Explanation: Picture this – you want your wind vane pointing north, but instead, it decides it wants to discover hidden treasures in the opposite direction – quite the rebellious spirit! Misalignment is commonly caused by incorrect installation or loose connections between the wind vane and the boat’s rudder. Ensure that all parts are securely fastened with the precision of a complicated jigsaw puzzle (but without the frustration). When resolving misalignment issues, imagine you are showing your wind vane some tough love – tighten those nuts and bolts until they can’t even think about misbehaving!

Conclusion: While wind vane self-steering systems generally offer efficient steering solutions for sailors, encountering common issues is not uncommon. By understanding these challenges and implementing our witty troubleshooting advice, your wind vane will be back in shape in no time. Remember, a witty approach combined with professional expertise ensures smooth sailing both on water and through blog posts!

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Yachting Monthly

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Windvane steering: why it makes sense for coastal cruising

• Will Bruton
• October 15, 2018

No electricity needed, built for gale-force conditions and currently experiencing 
something of a renaissance amongst 
cruisers; windvane self-steering makes sense for coastal cruisers as much as 
offshore voyagers. Will Bruton took 
an in depth look at the options 
and how they work.

‘The distance run was 2,700 miles as the crow flies. During those 23 days I had not spent more than three hours at the helm. I just lashed the helm and let her go; whether the wind was abeam or dead aft, it was all the same: she always stayed on her course,’ wrote Joshua Slocum in 1895.

The ability of his long-keeled Spray to hold course without input from the helm was instrumental 
in making her the first yacht to circumnavigate single-handed.

Few modern boats bear these inherently balanced characteristics, so some form of autopilot is necessary to allow the skipper to rest.

Even for crewed passages, it can take an enormous strain off the crew without draining the battery. Some insurance companies even count windvane steering as an additional crew member, such is its contribution to life on board.

Unlike an electronic autopilot, self-steering needs no power

One solution experiencing something of a renaissance, is windvane self-steering.

Requiring no electricity, mechanical self-steering gear was first designed in an age when autopilots were the preserve of large ships and heavy motor cruisers. The principle is relatively simple and pure physics.

What mechanical self-steering cannot do is hold your yacht on a compass course. However, as anyone that’s experienced a sudden wind shift or squall whilst away from the helm knows, steering to a wind angle is preferable most of the time as you are far less likely to crash gybe, and the sails remain correctly set.

Self-steering gear achieves this by presenting a vane directly into the wind. When the wind acts on either side of this vane, it tips, transferring this action through the mechanism below to either a rudder or a servo pendulum which acts on the main rudder, altering the boat’s course.

The two main systems

Servo-pendulum

A derivative of the servo-trim tab principle invented by Blondie Hasler, servo-pendulum self steering gear uses the speed of the yacht going through the water to push against the servo-paddle, creating a substantial force, which is then transferred to the yacht’s own tiller or wheel by control lines.

The wind itself does not provide the power for the steering; rather it adjusts the angle of the paddle, relying on the hydro-mechanical energy of the boat going through the water to do the work of steering the boat.

Popular before the advent of the small craft electronic autopilot, it’s particularly well suited to yachts under 40ft in length, and can be swung out of the water when not in use.

There are now several derivatives, including some available as a self-build kit. Amongst the Golden Globe Race entrants, models included Aries, Monitor, Windpilot and Beaufort systems.

One disadvantage of the servo-pendulum gear is that it uses the yacht’s rudder, meaning it does not double up as an emergency rudder should the yacht’s steering be disabled, although some servo-pendulums can be adapted.

Direct drive systems

Wind vane steering linked to a secondary rudder is the most inherently simple of the mechanical self-steering systems, but relies on a much more powerful transmission of force between a large-surface-area wind vane and the system’s own independent rudder.

Direct drive systems feature a large fully independent auxiliary rudder

This has the advantage of ensuring 
a back up steering method is already on board but also requires a heavy-duty installation to bear the load and strain that will be exerted.

One of the most popular models is the Hydrovane, which is now available in several different sizes and shapes depending on 
the boat it is being installed on.

The size 
and shape of the fabric-covered windvane is directly proportional to the size of yacht, and has been installed successfully on yachts in excess of 50ft in length, including multihulls.

When the boat veers off course, the 
wind hits the vane on one side or the other, deflecting it away from the vertical.

This then acts on a gear that converts 
this sideways movement into rotation to directly steer a relatively large rudder suspended from the boat’s transom via 
the installation framework.

Setting up windvane steering

Balancing the boat.

‘Before doing anything, you have to get the boat sailing well. It demands you take the time to get your boat properly balanced, correctly reefed and with no weather helms; so it actually makes you a better sailor!’ explains Nick Nottingham, who recently fitted a Hydrovane to his Hallberg-Rassy 42, Spellbinder . Nick is about to use the system on an Atlantic circuit.

Self-steering relies on a well balanced boat. As the wind shifts, the mechanism corrects

Self-steering gear works by adjusting the yacht’s course in relation to the apparent wind. The first step to making this work as efficiently as possible is to balance the boat and reduce the amount of input required.

Sailing conventionally, the yacht should be easy on the helm and not overpowered.

Setting the system for the conditions

Whether servo-pendulum or direct drive, most self-steering systems have one or more methods of adjustment for the conditions. In light airs, the wind vane will be exposed as much as possible to the wind, to exert the maximum force on the system, whereas in heavier weather, the vane’s height can be lowered, reducing the force acting on the system.

Some systems, like the Hydrovane, Monitor and Beaufort have different sized vanes that can be swapped, while the Windpilot and Aries allow the vane to be raked aft, presenting a shorter level.

With the wind vane attached, you are ready to remove the locking pin and engage the steering mechanism

On some set ups, the power exerted on the steering system can also be adjusted at the point where the wind vane meets its pivot, just like changing sensitivity on an electronic autopilot. By controlling the rotation of the rudder or paddle created by the windvane, you control how aggressively the system corrects the boat’s course.

Changing the gearing at the point where the wind input creates the steering output achieve an increase or decrease of ratio.

Engaging the system

To engage the system, set the yacht on course and adjust the wind vane so that the wind is flowing over it with the least resistance, like a blade.

If you a using a system with its own rudder, centralise and lock the yacht’s main rudder, simultaneously engaging the self-steering mechanism.

Once engaged, monitor how the system adjusts and double check your sails are trimmed correctly.

As the vane moves it will adjust the steering accordingly.

In heavy weather, reduce the system’s power to ensure the least amount of strain.

Self-steering systems work efficiently in strong winds but most will steer comfortably in light airs as well.

Course adjustments

When the wind vane is vertical, you are on course. When the vane is deflected, the system is adjusting course.

Changing the direction you want to go in is simply a matter of altering the self-steering system’s vane angle relative to the wind.

On most systems this is achieved by a steering line that can be run into the safety of the cockpit, meaning you do not necessarily need to adjust the vane itself directly.

Make small adjustments until the yacht comes onto the desired course, trimming the sails appropriately.

A standalone system?

Whilst self-steering systems offer a much more resilient option than an electronic autopilot for heavy weather, when there is no sailing wind, they cease to be useful.

Here an electronic tillerpilot has been plugged directly into the Hydrovane auxiliary rudder

For this reason, most cruisers also have a conventional electronic autopilot on board to steer under engine.

In the case of systems incorporating a rudder, many also make it possible to easily engage a tiller pilot onto the system’s auxiliary rudder for use under engine.

Self-steering on the Golden Globe Race

If there’s one place that mechanical 
self-steering fandom bordered on the evangelical this year, it was at the start of 
the Golden Globe Race .

50 years previously, Robin Knox-Johnston’s world first single-handed circumnavigation was steered by his own self-steering gear system until it failed 
near Australia.

Restored to her former glory, 
Knox-Johnston’s Suhaili joined the parade; along with Indian competitor Abhilash Tommy’s replica yacht Thuriya , which sports a commercially made Windpilot servo-pendulum system.

Self-steering gear on Suhaili. Credit: Nic Compton/Alamy Stock Photo

With this year’s revival competition using 1960’s technology and electronic wizardry strictly prohibited, mechanical self-steering systems are effectively the only option for competitors. Each has chosen carefully.

Competitors in the race are using a variety of systems including Hydrovane, Aries, Monitor, Windpilot and Beaufort.

Due to the nature of the boats competing being long keeled, they are ideally suited to mechanical self-steering, naturally holding course better than a modern hull. However, should systems fail and prove unrepairable, it will be hard 
for them to remain competitive in the race.

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Why You Need a Wind Vane for Your Sailboat

September 24, 2021 by Travis Turgeon 1 Comment

Many of today’s offshore cruising sailboats utilize a type of autopilot equipment called a windvane. A sailboat wind vane is a mechanical self-steering system that requires no electricity, fuel, or manpower to operate. It’s the perfect addition to bluewater cruisers and offshore sailboats. While a mechanical self-steering wind vane can’t hold you on a compass course, they’re more accurate than human steering over long distances. By reducing the overall mileage of a passage, you’re able to save time and money on your journey. Alternatively, a windvane is essential for short-handed or single-handed sailing. It gives the skipper a much-needed break from the helm when conditions allow.

How Does a Wind Vane Work on a Sailboat?

Mechanical wind vane systems are relatively simple in concept. Once mounted at the boat’s transom or somewhere along the stern, wind prompts the elevated vane to adjust the rudder or wheel steering system, putting your sailboat back on a wind-based course dictated by the captain. The idea is that you won’t have to make constant adjustments in variable winds. Automatic adjustments reduce boat heeling and allow your vessel to remain trim in the water. 

In other words, wind vanes use wind and water resistance to return a ship to course when wind chages direction.

Sailboat Windvane Gears Vs. Electronic Autopilot Systems

Two primary self-steering systems are standard for bluewater cruisers and offshore sailboats: wind vane steering gears and electronic autopilot systems. Both systems have advantages, and many sailors choose to install both systems on their boats. 

Electronic Autopilot Systems 

Electronic autopilot systems are the modern answer to self-steering. They’re easy to use, work without wind, and are an excellent option for near-shore cruising and short-term offshore sailing. Autopilots are also compatible with multi-hull vessels, unlike windvane systems. 

The downfalls to these systems can be daunting, though. Electronic systems are complex and have numerous parts: displays, wiring, plotters, motors – the list goes on. To run an electric autopilot system, you’ll also need a generator. Most even have two generators, using one as a backup for reliability. As you’d expect, they also come with a higher price tag. 

Self-Steering Wind Vane Systems

Windvane steering systems take a more traditional approach to self-steering. They rely on the wind to operate your boat on the desired course. Wind vane steering systems require no electricity, little maintenance, have few moving parts. They also come in several variations to fit your boat in the best way possible. Another massive benefit of a mechanical sailboat windvane is its robust build. This allows reliable and powerful performance in heavy weather conditions. 

There are also several downfalls to a windvane system. They do not work in the absence of wind or under power, can add weight and stress to the boat stern, can be initially expensive to purchase, and won’t work on multi-hull vessels. 

Types of Sailboat Wind Vane Systems

All wind vane systems direct a boat to a wind-based course, but they each do it differently. 

Servo-Pendulum Wind Vane 

Servo-pendulum windvane systems are the most common commercially available system, and they are a favorite among most sailors. The reliability for offshore sailing is a huge selling point. It re-affirms why these are the “classic” wind-driven autopilot systems. 

Main steering servo-pendulum systems have control lines running from the primary steering quadrant to a wheel or tiller. As the wind pushes the pendulum, it directs the boat’s steering by way of the primary rudder. Because of this, the system is solely dependent on the power of the wind. The stronger the wind blows, the more force the system provides to push the boat back on the desired course. 

Rudder steering servo-pendulum systems have the pendulum rudder connected to the primary boat rudder. It works almost the same as the “main steering system,” with a few minor differences. The wind pushes the pendulum rudder to the side, forcing water to pull the boat’s main rudder to change steering. The advantage of this system over the prior is that it involves fewer mechanical components, making it easier to check issues and fix any problems. The disadvantage is that it can be a bit trickier to set.

One of the biggest downfalls of either servo-pendulum system is that the pendulum rudder can not replace an auxiliary rudder. Unlike an auxiliary rudder, its one-dimensional operation makes it unable to run the system if the primary rudder fails. These systems can also create a cluttered cockpit due to the lines running from the steering quadrant. Lastly, servo-pendulum systems generally require more consistent maintenance and more common repairs. 

Auxiliary-Rudder Wind Vane

Unlike servo-pendulum steering systems, auxiliary-rudder wind vanes are entirely independent of all other aspects of the boat. Instead, the main rudder is locked, and the auxiliary rudder steers the vessel after setting a powerful windvane to the desired angle. The main rudder is often locked to the left of center or slightly at an angle to balance the helm. One of the most significant advantages to these systems is that if the primary boat rudder fails, the auxiliary rudder can act as a replacement to steer the boat. 

There are some important considerations to make when purchasing auxiliary-rudder wind vane steering gear. First, auxiliary-rudder windvanes put a significant amount of stress on the vane, making it vital that the model and components are well designed and made of quality materials. If you can source well-made parts, there is minimal risk while out at sea. There are very few moving parts and no critical lines attached to the system. Second, these systems are big, heavy, and bulky. Having such a massive piece of equipment at the stern of the boat isn’t always ideal in every scenario. Lastly, auxiliary rudders can be awkward to operate when the mizzen is in use on ketch-rigged vessels.

Trim-Tab Wind Vane

Trim-tab windvanes are less common than they used to be after the emergence of the steering technologies listed above. The system works by attaching a “tab” to the main rudder. The small surface of the trim tab makes it easy for the wind to move it from side to side, which then forces water over the primary rudder in the opposite direction to keep the boat on course. Those with the appropriate skills and know-how can even construct a trim-tab themselves, although we recommend that they do not rely entirely on a self-made system. 

The major drawback to trim-tabs is that the ability to fine-tune the system is somewhat limited in heavy conditions. 

How to Install a Sailboat Wind Vane System

Installing a wind vane on your boat is relatively easy, but it still takes a bit of planning. 

Initial Considerations

All windvane models require installation at the center of the boat’s transom or as close to the center as possible. Depending on which system you choose to run, you may need to account for the steering lines that operate the system. Steering lines are approximately a quarter of an inch in diameter and need a clear path from the wind vane to the boat wheel. You may redirect the lines with steering blocks, but be aware that each block adds friction and lessens the overall efficiency of the steering system. 

Balancing the Boat

Windvane gears adjust the course of a boat using the wind force at the surface. For this to happen efficiently, you’ll first need to ensure your boat is balanced and sailing as intended. Take your time to get the weight distributed evenly. You’ll also need to reef the sails appropriately so as not to be overpowered. 

Adjusting the System for the Conditions

Regardless of the system, nearly all sailboat wind vanes have one or more adjustment features so that you can optimize performance in various conditions. When wind conditions are relatively light, you should expose the vane as much as possible so that the system receives the most force as possible. In heavy winds, however, you can lower the windvane to reduce the impact on the system. In some cases, the wind vanes have sensitivity adjustments where the vane meets the pivot, so you may not need to adjust the height as weather conditions change. 

How to Engage a Sailboat Wind Vane System

Most wind vanes are relatively adaptable and can adjust to fit a variety of hull types. Some vanes are even customizable to bolt directly onto the boat. As with any other object you bolt to your hull, plan to through-bolt everything with the appropriate bedding and backplates for maximum security.

Operating a sailboat wind vane is far less complicated than you might expect. There are four standard steps to engaging a windvane:

• Deploy the Gear : To do this, attach the wind paddle and unfold the rudder to be placed in the water. Doing this should only take a few minutes at most. 
• Connect the Control Lines : Control lines run from the windvane to the boat wheel and may have steering blocks included in the setup. The system may require you to make a few knots or use some hardware, but again, it’s a relatively easy process once you’ve completed it once or twice. 
• Balance the Boat and Set a Course : With the wind vane deployed, balance your boat, set the course to the desired point of sail, and adjust the windvane to engage the steering. 
• Evaluate the Course and Adjust as Needed : Adjust the vane to steer more accurately after evaluating your approach. Course adjustments are made by rotating and trimming the paddle to match your course.

Perfectly balancing your boat is one of the easiest ways to make your self-steering wind vane more efficient in the water. A vessel with poor balance or trim will not just sail inefficiently, but it will put unneeded stress on the wind vane system.

Have more questions about sailboat windvane systems and how you can best implement them on your boat?  Reach out to the #Boatlife community on our forum  with questions or comments!

If you found this article helpful, please leave a comment below, share it on social media, and subscribe to our email list.

For direct questions and comments, shoot me an email at [email protected]

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June 12, 2022 at 5:44 pm

Thanks for the useful information. However, you didn’t mention anything about the usefulness of wind vanes in light or downwind sailing. You mentioned the issue of a mizzen and auxiliary rudder, how do I understand that (as we sail a ketch and thinking about installing a Hydrovane.

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Self-Steering—with No Strings Attached

• By Darrell Nicholson
• Updated: February 4, 2002

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Although servo-pendulum windvanes, which we covered last month (“Sorting Out Self-Steering Options,” January), remain the most popular type of windvane self-steering system, other designs fill an important niche. Some sailors prefer the direct mechanical linkages–so there are no steering lines to the cockpit–that these other systems feature, and some boats simply won’t work well with servo-pendulum designs.

The alternative designs fall into two categories: trim-tab systems, which work with the boat’s rudder, and auxiliary-rudder systems, which steer with their own built-in rudders. These windvanes feature the same three major components as the servo-pendulum designs we reviewed–sensor vane, underwater course-correction unit (servo-rudder), and linkages.

The servo-pendulum windvanes we reviewed use low-stretch lines led through blocks to connect a vane’s powerful pendulum-rudder to the boat’s tiller, wheel, or steering quadrant. In the trim-tab and auxiliary-rudder systems we’ll look at, the linkage to the boat’s rudder or auxiliary rudder is mechanical, an arrangement that avoids problems of excessive stretch, chafe, or incorrect tension but can introduce corrosion problems and linkages that have their own complications. For owners of center-cockpit boats, the direct linkage eliminates the need for long lines running across the afterdeck.

The boats that stand to gain the most from such systems are ones with hydraulic steering or with wheel steering having four or more turns between stops, ones with high freeboard, or ones that are otherwise incompatible–or less compatible–with servo-pendulum steering vanes. In most other cases, servo-pendulum vanes offer undeniable advantages.

Trim Tabs Like the flap on an airplane wing, a trim tab is the trailing edge of a larger foil–in our case, either the ship’s primary rudder or an auxiliary rudder. When directed by the vane sensor, the trim tab turns. As long as the boat is moving fast enough, the lift provided by the change in water flow provides the force necessary to move the larger rudder. A trim tab should be balanced (meaning that its leading edge is forward of its axis of rotation), so that it’s easily driven by the vane sensor, and appropriately sized, so it provides sufficient power to control the rudder. Friction at its pintles and gudgeons should always be minimal.

Few of the trim-tab units we’ll review can be lifted easily out of the water or quickly removed from the rudder, a common shortcoming among both trim-tab and auxiliary-rudder systems. This not only makes the underwater unit more difficult to maintain and more vulnerable to damage, corrosion, and fouling; it also can add an unexpected twist when backing a boat under power. The biggest drawback of a traditional trim tab is that it can’t produce the same amount of power as a pendulum rudder of the same size, so a boat’s sail trim and helm balance become even more important. Heavy-displacement vessels with unbalanced rudders can make the trim tab’s job particularly tough. For emergency steering, you can use a trim-tab system that connects to the main rudder as long as the rudder to which it’s attached is intact and is still capable of turning (as in the case of a broken steering cable, for example).

Saye’s Rig: The Saye’s Rig is one of the few production windvanes that still uses a flag- type vertical-axis vane sensor, which functions like a masthead wind indicator, rotating so that its leading edge always points into the wind. A vertical-axis vane, however, can’t generate as much force as a horizontal vane of the same size. Nevertheless, the Saye’s Rig manages to provide an efficient steering impulse with a powerful wedge-shaped cloth vane. One reason the Saye’s can get away with a relatively small vertical-axis vane is that the trim tab it commands is a very small, well-balanced, servo-pendulum rudder, which provides far more power than a conventional trim tab of the same size. The linkages are simple: The pendulum rudder’s shaft passes through an extended U-shaped tiller arm attached to the boat’s rudder. The longer tiller arm, the more power it provides, so it works best on boats with inboard rudders. The simple design allows for durable construction in 316 stainless steel and cast bronze.

Auto Steer: This system, made in England, is easily adapted to boats with outboard rudders. Through a simple acetal-plastic and silicon-bronze universal linkage, the horizontal-axis sensor vane connects to a custom-sized trim tab made of wood and stainless steel attached to the boat’s rudder. The Auto Steer trim-tab vane is made of LM25 aluminum castings and 316 stainless steel, with insulation between dissimilar metals to minimize galvanic action. The manufacturer, Hydra Engineering, doesn’t recommend the system for heavy-displacement boats over 35 feet. For larger boats, the company makes a more powerful servo-pendulum unit.

Auxiliary Rudders An auxiliary rudder, because it’s smaller and often better balanced than the boat’s main rudder, reduces the resistance to the steering impulse, which, in the models we’ll look at, is delivered by either a trim tab, the vane sensor, or a servo-pendulum rudder. Because they operate independently of the boat’s rudder, auxiliary-rudder systems are compatible with hydraulic steering. They are also capable of serving, in a limited way, as an emergency rudder.

When selecting an auxiliary-rudder system, carefully consider proper rudder size and how it’s attached to the boat. Although the boat’s main rudder will be used to compensate for weather helm, the auxiliary rudder still needs to be powerful enough to steer the boat before a high quartering sea. Attachment points at the hull should be well reinforced, and the rudder shaft should be rugged. These details are particularly important if you need your auxiliary rudder to serve in an emergency. Heavy-displacement boats that are difficult to steer can test the limits of an auxiliary rudder that’s required to steer in an emergency. Auto-helm: This system features a large, wedge-shaped, horizontal-axis vane sensor made of 6061 T6 anodized aluminum that’s linked to a trim tab on an auxiliary rudder. The rudder mounts and underwater fittings are made of 316 stainless steel. The easily turned trim tab helps amplify the relatively weak wind impulse into a force that can drive the auxiliary rudder. The unique cable linkage (similar to a bicycle’s brake cables, but with smooth Teflon sheaths) between the sensor vane and the trim tab allows a great deal of flexibility in where you mount the vane. The vane can even be mounted on top of davits, which often interfere with other designs. These cables must be kept clean to ensure minimal friction. The sensor vane can also be used with a custom trim tab attached to an outboard rudder, in a manner similar to the Auto Steer system.

Hydrovane: This auxiliary-rudder system uses a horizontal-axis vane sensor to drive a well-balanced, solid-nylon rudder on a stainless-steel shaft. To accomplish this, the Hydrovane uses a relatively large sensor vane, a semibalanced rudder, and a variable ratio in the vane-to-rudder linkage. This adjustable linkage–with three separate positions for light, moderate, and heavy air–controls the mechanical advantage that the vane has over the rudder, or how far the auxiliary rudder will turn as the vane tilts. Another feature is an adjustable axis on the sensor vane, which allows you to further match the steering impulse to wave and wind conditions.

Construction of the Hydrovane unit is cast LM5 anodized aluminum, silicon bronze, and 316 stainless steel. An endless line to the vane allows you to position the vane relative to the wind from the safety of the cockpit. The Hydrovane’s rudder can be easily centered for maneuvering in port or completely removed by simply pulling a pin.

Fleming Global Auxiliary Rudder: For boats that aren’t suited to its standard system, Fleming links its servo-pendulum windvane directly to an auxiliary rudder. Its auxiliary-rudder system uses the same high-quality stainless steel (2205 duplex-cast castings and 316 tubing) as the standard version we reviewed last month. It also carries the same array of stainless-steel bearings in Delrin races to reduce friction. An endless line led to the cockpit permits infinite course adjustment. Of the auxiliary-rudder systems we compared, the Fleming is the only one that has a hinged auxiliary rudder with overload protection. A shear pin offers impact protection, and the hinge makes it easy to lift the rudder out of the water. The servo rudder, which also has a shear pin for impact protection, easily swings out of the water–like the standard Fleming. You can also simply remove the servo-pendulum part of the system by undoing one bolt.

The linkage between the servo-pendulum rudder and the auxiliary rudder has a variable power ratio. This allows you to adjust how much rudder deflection there is for a given course error and lets you fine-tune steering characteristics to suit a variety of wind and sea conditions. A clutch system allows you to engage or disengage the servo blade under load.

Windpilot Pacific Plus: Windpilot takes its Pacific-series servo-pendulum vanes one step further by using a servo-pendulum system to drive an auxiliary rudder. The combined unit features the same construction details as the Pacific series: infinitely adjustable course setting, bevel-gear linkage between the vane and pendulum rudder, a lift-up pendulum rudder, and low-maintenance sleeve bearings. The body construction is high-grade AlMg5 aluminum-alloy castings. The linkage between the servo-pendulum and the auxiliary rudder is a bronze bevel gear that’s easily disengaged. Although you can easily fold up the servo-rudder, the auxiliary rudder is designed to stay in the water. You can, however, quickly center the rudder when the servo-pendulum rudder is in the raised position.

Darrell Nicholson is a Cruising World associate editor.

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Windy Selfsteering

Tough, strong and reliable self steering

New Windy coming soon

Model Windy (servo-pendulum, currently not available) feedback and nice blog:

Sailblog Yacht Flirtie, Voyager 40 Blog1: https://www.sailblogs.com/member/distantdrummer/483079 Blog2: https://www.sailblogs.com/member/distantdrummer/483286 Blog3: https://www.sailblogs.com/member/distantdrummer/

About ProVane

ProVane is designed for a larger boat with wheel (also suits for tiller) and it has emergency rudder ability. ProVane can be mounted off-center.

It’s rudder is 300x1100mm and also the windvane is large, 520x1000mm. ProVane is stand alone system, auxiliary rudder type, no steering lines in cocpit for the wheel.

Advantages over electric autopilots:

• It does not require electricity for its operation.
• Robust and simple construction. 
• Emergency rudder with tiller.
• Vessels rudder system does not wear on longer trips.

Dimensions PDF:

proVane dimensions

For better understanding user manual is downloadable by this link here (Google Drive):

Photos and videos

Take a closer look at our product

Make your sailing experience more enjoyable

Nb no new orders will take new orders in november. apologies.

Text goes here

Text goes here also

Selfsteering equipment idea was born while I was sailing around the world across three oceans on a 31-feet yacht.

On the last leg from South Africa to Cabo Verde, flight home being less than 4000 nm away, the old noname self steering gear broke down when a bigger breaker hit the yacht from the side.

This gave me a reason to start developing a new self steering system that would be stronger. The idea was to build the cheapest windvane on the market that would still keep its strength and quality. By now Windy windvane has successfully sailed across the Atlantic ocean many times.

S/Y Bellatrix

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The purpose of a wind-vane self steering device is to allow the skipper to do something other than sitting at the helm. While this is not practical for most un-ballasted small sailboats, a self steering device is an essential tool for the cruising sailor. Graham has been testing the wind vane on his  Core Sound 17 Mark 3  which has an excess of stability and is a perfect candidate for self steering. Following its success we have scaled up the mechanism which is built with modest tools and materials to work for larger boats up to 30 feet. 

We are pleased to offer our wind vane design as a set of downloadable plans and instructional documents revealing all the dimensions and ratios used as well as recommended materials and construction methods for building this simple cheap and effective system at a fraction of the cost of an off the shelf system. Graham's design is based on his decades of experience building wind vane self steering gear since the 1970's and the tips and tricks for setting up a simple to build and reliable system are all conveyed here. The plans for our wind vane include full size templates for all the critical parts along with the dimensions and ratios used. A builder's guide covers recommended materials and things to watch out for as well as details of construction. All you have to do is adapt the system to work on your boats transom configuration. To learn more about our system and if it might be a good fit for you just keep reading. 

How a self steering wind vane works. Short version. The “vane” part in the air provides the input to the rudder. The upper part of the system (the input or vane) is rotated such that it points into the apparent wind once the boat is on course. When the boat gets off course, the force of the wind hits the side of the vane causing it to lean over or in some cases rotate which in turn produces a correcting movement on the rudder. This turns the boat back on course until the vane is once again back to a neutral location. The trick to this is getting the right proportions, feedback and ratios of the vane, rudder, trim tab and control linkages. 

Our Design Requirements

1. Low Friction : The name of the game is LOW FRICTION with wind vane self steering devices. We accomplish this with polished stainless steel against uhmw plastic for a cheap and reliable low friction connection. 

2. Kick-up Auxiliary Rudder : This was a MUST HAVE for our shallow draft boats and not a feature we have seen on ANY other wind vane designs with an aux. rudder. The rudder pivots on a pin at the top of the transom and is held down with a line on a breakaway cleat. 

3. Trim Tab Control : The aux. rudder is controlled by a trim tab that is actuated by the movement of the wind-vane (the part in the air). It's mesmerizing to watch and works completely without batteries or power. 

4. Adjustable vane : The wind vane itself pivots on a horizontal axis that is inclined slightly. This creates an important damping effect in the actuation of the tab so that as the vane tilts it loses power because its projected area decreases. This reduces “hunting” and oversteering and unnecessary oscillation of the input to the rudder. 

5. Removable vane : As with most systems, the vane is completely removed or replaced in seconds and can also be tilted back to increase the damping effect for high winds or made more vertical for light air which increases power. It can also be swapped out for a larger or smaller vane in lighter or stronger conditions. 

6. Adjustable from anywhere in the cockpit : With the addition of a control wheel we can spin the upper part of the vane assembly 360 degrees using a control line routed around the cockpit. This means we can make small adjustments to the direction of the vane from anywhere you can reach the control line. 

-Note that there are features we did not incorporate but may be important to some. One such feature is an emergency tiller. This allows for the use of the auxiliary rudder if the main rudder becomes inoperable. We would certainly want this feature on an ocean going cruising boat. If you build the auxiliary rudder up to reach the top of the transom then this is not difficult to do. Our kick up auxiliary rudder makes this a bit more of a challenge but a tiller tube can be fitted to reach a socket without much difficulty. 

How does our wind vane system work...“I love it when you talk technical.” Our design uses a horizontal pivoting wind vane to control a trim tab on an auxiliary rudder. ( n this configuration, the vessels main rudder does the heavy lifting of keeping the boat generally on course essentially acting like a fixed skeg when the wind vane is engaged. The main rudder and most importantly the sails are adjusted first to balance the helm and then locked off with a tiller clutch. The auxiliary rudder then keeps the boat on course with small adjustments using a trim tab to amplify the power from the wind vane.

But will it work on my boat? … yes but! There are literally dozens of ways to control a boat using a wind vane. Here are a few  put into a nice chart we found on one of the many commercially available wind vane self steering gear company websites. The most common systems are auxiliary rudder systems and servo pendulum systems. If you prefer a  servo pendulum system or your boat is better suited for one then you can still use the vane assembly from these plans and simply adapt the lower unit however we do not show details for a pendulum in these plans.  Servo pendulum gears can generate great power but they are not easy to build and come at a higher cost due to the stronger materials and complicated parts required. They also rely on additional lines and rigging running through the cockpit. We feel an auxiliary rudder or trim tab system offers the best all-around self-steering device for most boats especially for low cost and simple construction methods.  A balanced auxiliary rudder can generate as much power as you need for most boats and has the benefit of being a redundant rudder in the event you need it. In addition, a super low power electronic autopilot like the pypilot can be connected directly to the trim tab or auxiliary rudder to steer a course while motoring for example.

We once installed an auxiliary rudder wind vane on a 45’ steel sloop one third of it’s way into a circumnavigation. It completed its way around the world even though the boat crashed onto a reef in Venezuela. The skipper shipped the auxiliary rudder while the boat pounded. After being dragged off the reef, and with the spade rudder inoperable, the aux rudder steered the boat to port where the main rudder and other damage was repaired. The owner said that the wind vane rudder which was equipped with an emergency tiller mount saved the boat.

The most cited disadvantage of an auxiliary rudder system are that they don't kick up and they require the construction and mounting of an extra rudder. Kicking up is an important feature and one we didn't want to give up especially for our smaller trailable boats.  Our auxiliary rudder can be tilted completely out of the water when not in use.  This is accomplished with some careful geometry and clever mounting BUT it is best suited for nearly vertical  or forward raking transoms. You can still fit an auxiliary rudder to a transom with reverse rake but it is typically done with a very strong vertical tube bolted to the transom at the top and bottom with braces extending diagonally low to the waterline for support. This requires some complex geometry and custom mounting brackets so it is a bit more challenging to mount.  If you are fitting a wind vane self steering system to a boat with an existing transom hung fixed (non kick up) rudder then a trim tab added directly to the main rudder may be a better solution for your boat and our wind vane would be easily adapted in this case. 

The real challenge of mounting. “No size fits all.” Production self steering units will supply various kits and tubing and brackets to help make their systems fit your transom with just a few bolt holes carefully placed. Even with those systems it's up to you to mount it correctly and this will be no different.  You will, without a doubt, need a custom mounting solution for your boat and you are the best person to design and build it! The system we are offering here is but a single example of a configuration fitted to a vertical or forward raking transom of our own design. We can’t help everyone mount this system to their individual transoms and there are probably some sterns that will really be challenging. You may need to design your own rudder for example using the parameters and ratios we offer in our plans as a guide in order to meet the needs of your transom configuration. This is for you to figure out! Remember, being a D.I.Y’er (also known as a sailor) is all about saving money by not charging yourself for the time it takes you to do stuff!

Limitations of a mechanical self steering device... What’s the “Ketch”? Wind vanes are not for everyone and one you build yourself has its own unique challenges to boot. A mechanical wind vane cannot blindly follow a compass course but instead must follow the ever-shifting wind direction and balance of the boat as wind and seat state change. On very fast boats, the apparent wind direction shifts so much that a wind vane is somewhere between useless and dangerous. Cruising cats can be fitted with wind vanes but typically an electronic autopilot is more practical due to their higher speeds. A mechanical wind vane relies on the wind speed being greater than the boat speed which for the vast majority of cruising boats is usually the case. On the current crop of large single handed around the world racers, automatic pilots have become so sophisticated they require training of the computer as they learn the boats behavior during high speed breakaways. 

If you are travelling at displacement speeds with a bit of surfing thrown in and if you do not have unlimited power and money and if you do not mind making small adjustments to the boats trim and self-steering gear as the wind shifts, you will have a loyal assistant that never grows tired or needs feeding. 

Staying in trim A good sailor keeps his boat in trim and a happy wind vane is one that is sailing a boat that is already balanced as well as possible. If your boat is heavy on the helm already then you may need the extra power provided by a servo pendulum system. If you have a hard time steering your boat, a wind vane (any wind vane) will too. 

Space requirements Highlighted below on Graham's Core Sound 17 Mark 3 'Carlita'. Our design requires open space above the transom so it won't work on a standard Core Sound 17 for example due to the proximity of the mizzen sheets. The addition of a boomkin allows the mizzen sheet to be behind the reach of the wind vane sail in the case of the CS-17 Mk3. Likewise a yawl with long mizzen boom will be a challenge as the mechanism must be mounted far behind the transom.

A few notes from Graham....

"Horizontal axis vanes and servo pendulum paddles are the most powerful self steering systems and are certainly required for large or heavy handed vessels. Carlita is a light well mannered boat and requires finesse rather than brute force. If you have not already seen the self steering video, check out the video and answer your own question. She is running almost straight downwind and surfing. After this video was taken she surfed to a little over 10 knots without misbehaving." 

Above, Graham steering his then unpainted Core Sound 17 Mark 3 Carlita with all sails flying in the 2016 Everglades Challenge. Note that this earlier version of the kick up wind vane employed a vertically pivoting vane which was converted the more recent version afterward. Vertically pivoting vanes have less power but do offer some advantages such as being able to just point into the wind when not in use. (photo Patrick Johnson)  

Graham continues...

"The key is an ultra light vane and very low friction. The lead counter weight is just 6 oz on Carlita's system. to balance the vane. This makes the vane very responsive and reduces friction and lowers the mass moment of inertia. The next important feature is differential feedback in the linkage. This means that when the vane kicks the servo tab over and the tab turns the auxiliary rudder, the angle of the tab is rapidly reduced. If you do not have this feature the boat will hunt badly down wind where there is no natural balance from the sails as you do when close hauled. The whole thing is a delicate balance between power and feedback."

In the video below, Graham sails Carlita a Core Sound 17 Mark 3 with the wind vane rudder disabled and in the "raised" position and the boat steers herself with proper sail trim to windward. Notice that the tiller is simply lashed. 

"I want the rudder fixed to aid directional stability. Before engaging the vane, I try to find the sweet spot for the rudder and lock it. I will then observe the course after the vane is engaged for a while and I may rotate the vane or move the tiller slightly. Usually I adjust the vane first. It is a powerful little vane and will tolerate a fair amount of imbalance. All self steering systems hunt but the better everything is balanced the less oversteering there will be.

If you do not enjoy fiddling then a wind vane may not be for you. Naturally they are worthless in waterways because the wind is too shifty. But It did do a great job last week running down the Cape Fear River. The GPS showed a top speed of 8.75 knots and the speed was rarely under 6, at least 3 knots of that was current." -Graham Byrnes

wavefront marine

Tiller clutch (standard).

B&B Windvane Self Steering Plans

Hebridean self-steering wind vane

“well worth investigating”

TOM CUNLIFFE The Complete Ocean Skipper

“I’m impressed… the vane performed well on all points of sail, including downwind… the servo pendulum system took control to the extent that it could sail a course with the sails badly set” DAVID PUGH Editor, Practical Boat Owner

Build your own servo-pendulum wind vane from a kit

The Hebridean wind vane is an innovative version of the tried and tested servo-pendulum self steering system for sailing boats steered by tiller or wheel. The Hebridean  has crossed Atlantic and Pacific oceans but is also quick and easy to mount for weekend coastal sailing or jaunts across the Channel, Minch or other strait/sea.

Stern freeboard The kit fits yachts with stern freeboards from 600-1000mm (stationary). It is designed specifically for DIY construction. The Hebridean can be tilted up out of the water or lifted off the stern and stored on the guard wires. Or partially dismantled for storage below.

Horizontal vane axle The Hebridean is the only serv0-pendulum vane with an actual horizontal vane axle. One of its unique design features allowing boosted performance, simplified construction and enhanced efficiency in all conditions. John Fleming’s analytical genius was responsible for the innovative geometry on which this landmark development in servo-pendulum windvane design depends.

Simplicity For confidence at sea or in remote locations, the simplicity of its components and assembly crucially allows the unit to be maintained with tools usually found onboard. Building the Hebridean yourself is a hands-on “course” providing you not only with a good understanding of its workings, but also substantial confidence in your ability to maintain it anywhere.

Wood When sourcing your own wood you need 4m of suitable hardwood at 145 x 20mm (EU standard). The longest plank is 1800mm to make the pendulum/paddle for 1000mm height transoms. Here is the wood cutting plan .

Affordable The Hebridean offers DIY sailors the opportunity to build an affordable wind vane in wood and stainless steel, with no welding, bearings or plastic cogs in the main H2 Kit. (there is one worm and wheel in the optional Remote Course Adjustment Kit which can be viewed in action in this youtube video ). All the metal components are prefabricated (drilling and some surface finishing required) ready for you to bolt to the wooden frame. The build requires basic wood-work skills and tools. And several days of absorbing and highly rewarding work.

Wheel steering too A “drum” kit for connecting the Hebridean to wheel steering is available.

Shipping For shipping costs, please contact me at the email address below with your full name, delivery address and phone number (required by carrier) for a quotation.

Kit prices Prices are listed on our Prices & Ordering page.

A section by section video from Hebridean builder, Ian French Thank you Ian!

• Part 1 Intro and frame: Intro & Frame
• Part 2 Turret and Vane : Turret & Vane
• Part 3 Fixtures and fittings : Fixtures & Fittings
• Part 4 Servo Rudder: Servo Rudder
• Part 5 Boat mounting: Boat Mounting
• Part 6 Testing the wind vane: Testing the Wind Vane
• Part 7 Wind vane in action
• Part 8 See the remote steering mechanism being assembled . The single weld required in Part 8 is completed by us before kit dispatch.
• Part 9 Preparing Remote Control Lines

See the Hebridean in action

• Videos shot in Scotland in varying sea and wind conditions Scotland Sea Trials
• Trials over 8 years of coastal and off-shore sailing by John Fleming, the designer of the Hebridean Wind Vane The Hebridean in action.
• Emmanuel sailing on Lake Geneva with Mont Blanc in the background Wind Vane in action on Lake Geneva
• Mounted on the 45 degree rudder stock of a Twister off the Scilly Isles https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNlZHFFseB0
• Finnish archipelago Sailing https://photos.app.goo.gl/hYWTEcJhbdX3WGe39
• Wheel steering , all beautifully finished, on Al Hanson’s Pearson 31-2. Al’s video also features his removable Hebridean mounting solution attached to his folding transom boarding ladder.
• 1912 Falmouth Quay Punt Plymouth https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n6BIxYQUPiM
• Wind vane and dolphins off Fair Isle https://vimeo.com/136486631
• Courtesy Tom Fisher on “Angus” The Hebridean Wind Vane in action in strong winds 25/5/17 Bermuda to Azores https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Po-oXzVaIAk
• Kristian Møller Pedersen’s first day out with the Hebridean on trial after having completing the wind vane also see testimonials page   https://youtu.be/d2fjzbkh0dU
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yg7JgwH6Y58
• https://youtu.be/1090Z-dK2Ys
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EjAUfm-i6Yw
• Hebridean mounted on top of rudder stock on a canoe stern sailing off Canary Islands Hebridean in use in Canary Islands
• An afternoon sail in 10 to 15 knots on Port Phillip Bay watch-v=QBx0ywAjMCA&feature=youtu.be
• Video of the “drum” kit watch-v=4KLWJbYYOF0&feature=youtu.be

Frequently Asked Questions

John Fleming  1951 – 2023 teacher   yachtsman   inventor   thinker  

Here is a 10 minute video tribute to the Hebridean’s designer, John Fleming. It was aired at his life celebration in The Tip i at his family home, The Dell, Nethy Bridge, 19 April 2023. https://www.sgmarkphotography.com/Client-Area/John-Fleming  Use password sleepyeagle (the name of John’s Pioneer 10).

Notice from Ian Kirkwood

When John’s health got worse, he asked me again to take on the project. I am an enthusiastic fan of his highly ingenious version of the servo-pendulum self steering-system. I sailed in company with John on and off for a decade — using my own Hebridean (I was his first customer in 2013).

Our Hebrideans steered us around Scotland’s northwest coast and isles. We made three trips in company to the Faroe Islands. On the first of these I sailed happily solo. All thanks to the Hebridean. Dying winds foiled an attempt to reach Iceland: our boats lay calmly hove-to overnight a few miles off the Butt of Lewis. Plan B proved to be a fabulous voyage down the length of the Atlantic coast of the Outer Hebrides. A highlight was anchoring off Callanish in blazing sun.

I hope to continue John’s personal style of service. Please allow a generous lead time as I get used to stocking the components and preparing Hebridean kits while maintaining their high quality…and a reasonable kit price in times of rising costs.

• SAILOMAT 800
• SAILOMAT 760
• Designer's Comments
• Overall Description
• Main Features
• Technical Info
• Component Photos
• Installation Photos
• Questions and Answers
• Pricing Information
• User Comments
• Installation Examples

The ULTIMATE in Sailboat Self-Steering

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The most recent design is the SAILOMAT 800/760/700 series, based on 40 years of self-steering design experiences , practical testing and manufacturing under the group leadership of Dr. Stellan Knöös, both in Sweden and USA. The state-of-the-art and innovative SAILOMAT 800 system represents the next generation in sailboat self-steering.

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Kevin Boothby Sailing

The Boothby-Hasler Self-Steering Windvane

In a previous article ( read here ) I detailed the construction of a Hasler-type self-steering windvane for my own 31-foot gaff cutter. Attributed to the late Blondie Hasler of Jester fame, this type of windvane is a remarkably simple device which will steer a sailboat by holding her to a constant apparent wind angle (which is what all self-steering windvanes do, or are supposed to do). In terms of ruggedness, simplicity, and cost effectiveness, this type of vane excels. It does, however, come with disadvantages, first and foremost being that it can only be implemented on a boat with an outboard (stern-hung) rudder.

But given that your craft does have an outboard rudder, is this type of windvane a good choice for the short-handed ocean cruising sailor? After having circled the world with an Aries vane, and now having sailing some 50,000 miles with my home built Hasler-type vane, my answer to that question is yes. However, it has taken me quite some time to get the Hasler-type vane to steer anywhere near as well as the Aries did. After nearly a decade and about 25,000 miles of ocean sailing I have developed a system I call the Boothby-Hasler-type vane, which will steer my own boat very nearly as well as the old Aries did. 

Who Needs a Self-Steering Windvane?

I have had several people tell me that their boat will actually steer itself, sans windvane or autopilot (and the boat is a monohull). When I press them for details, usually I will find out that they were sailing with the wind forward of the beam, either close hauled or close reaching. Now there have been some sailors able to get their craft to self-steer on all points of sail with the helm lashed, as Joshua Slocum famously did with Spray , but these are the exceptions. Most boats will become directionally unstable once the wind gets aft of the beam. Let us understand why this is so.

Consider our sailboat on a close reach. Nearly all sailboats will have a touch of weather helm in such conditions, which means that if we let the tiller go she will naturally round up into the wind. To balance this off we have the helm lashed slightly “up”, that is, with the rudder blade trying to steer her away from the wind (i.e. toward a greater apparent wind angle).

Now to get our boat to self steer in these conditions, we will have our sails just slightly under-trimmed, particularly the mainsail. Let us now consider what happens when our craft starts to wander off course.

First, consider the case where she wanders further off the wind. Now our slightly under-trimmed sails are full of wind and the increased pressure causes her to heel more. An increased heel angle will correspond to an increase in weather helm. This is because, as shown in Fig. 2, the forward component of the Center of Effort (CofE) of the sails shifts outboard and to leeward with an increased heel angle, thus increasing the lever arm from the centerline (where generally opposing drag is situated) which corresponds to an increased torque trying to round the boat up into the wind. This increased weather helm is now stronger than our offsetting “up” helm, and so will cause the boat to round up slightly, thus correcting the wander. 

Note: there is also the issue of the underwater flow pattern which changes as the boat heels. This is an extremely complex subject, so suffice it to say that generally the more the boat heels, the more she wants to round up into the wind.

Now consider the case where she wanders closer to the wind. The slightly under-trimmed sails now are even more under trimmed, perhaps now with the luff of the headsail visibly bubbling. The decrease in pressure causes her to stand up straighter, and with less heel angle comes less natural weather helm, hence our bit of up helm is overcompensating and steering her back away from the wind, and thus once again correcting the wander.

Well by now we might be thinking that we picked a gem, that our craft has no need for an expensive, complicated windvane nor a power hungry autopilot. Confident, we apply the same strategy on a broad reach, but to our disappointment the boat starts rounding up into the wind until her sails are luffing and she is nearly stopped. Or to our dismay she tries to sail herself through a jybe. 

Why will our boat no longer self-steer? Recall that we are on a broad reach, so the sails are full of wind. Looking at Figs 1-3, we see that trimmed sails exert a force vector on the boat emanating from the combined center of effort of the sails and that this force vector has two components, one pointing dead ahead, which is what is pushing the boat forward, and an orthogonal component pointing directly to leeward, the component that causes a monohull to heel. Moreover, the closer the boat is sailing to the wind, the greater the leeward component. We know from experience that our boat heels the most when sailing to windward, and not at all when going dead down wind.

Once again, let us consider separately the two cases in which the boat wanders off course. First we consider the case where the boat is on a broad reach and begins to wander further off the wind, toward a run. Now as the boat bears away, the leeward component of the CofE becomes less and less, until she comes onto a run, where the leeward component of the CofE is zero (see Fig. 4). As before, generally the less the heel angle, the less the amount of natural weather helm, hence our up helm lashing on a broad reach is probably overcompensating as she bears away–which, instead of correcting the wander, is now contributing to it. This could lead to an uncontrolled jybe if no one gets to the helm in time.

Now consider the second case where the boat begins to round up from a broad reach toward a beam reach. As this happens the leeward component of the CofE is increasing, causing her to heel more, which is increasing the amount of natural weather helm (also the apparent wind speed will increase some as we are no longer sailing away from the wind, which further increases heel angle). This begins overpowering our up helm lashing, and the boat continues to round up until the sails begin to luff. Possibly at this point, with the sails now luffing and the boat standing back up straight, the lashed helm will begin to steer her back off the wind, but I find with my own boat that she has lost so much speed at this point that the rudder does not have sufficient bite. She’ll just wallow about with the sails flogging until I take over on the helm again.

So to sum up, when the wind is forward of the beam, the opposing forces of natural weather helm and our helm lashing are self balancing, steering the boat toward the wind when she wanders away, and away from the wind when she wanders too close. But when sailing off the wind, e.g. on a broad reach, the opposing forces of natural weather helm and our helm lashing are no longer self correcting, and so either a helmsman or some kind of mechanical steering device will be required to keep her on course.

The Boothby-Hasler-type vane

The first time I sailed with the newly installed Hasler-type vane on my own boat I discovered its flaw, a flaw which would take me several years and thousands of miles to solve. The Hasler-type windvane has a tendency to over steer the boat, especially when broad reaching. Before we get into this, let us first review how this windvane works.

This windvane consists of four primary parts: an air paddle, an engaging mechanism, a shaft, and a trim tab mounted on the trailing edge of the boat’s rudder (see Figs 5a and 5b). When not in use, the air paddle can rotate freely about the shaft above the rudderhead, and the trim tab can freely trail behind the rudder.

Consider the case when we are sailing on our desired course which has us, say, on a close reach. To get the windvane to steer the boat, we simply engage–in my case, clamp–the air paddle to the shaft. Let us understand how this device will now steer our boat.

Figures 6a and 6b illustrate the case where the boat wanders closer to the wind. As the apparent wind moves forward (at a closer angle to the boat’s heading) the air paddle rotates the trim tab in the same direction as the change in apparent wind. With the water flowing over the trim tab, and the fact that the trim tab has a good deal of leverage over the rudder, this will cause the trim tab to rotate the rudder in the opposite direction as the trim tab rotation. This is what we want. Referring to Figures 6a and 6b, we see that when the apparent wind rotates counter-clockwise , the self-steering device rotates the rudder clockwise –which alters the boat’s course in a counter-clockwise direction. Hence the self-steering device is steering the boat so as to restore the original apparent wind angle.

Should the apparent wind shift clockwise instead, the air paddle will turn the trim tab clockwise which will rotate the rudder counter-clockwise. This will in turn steer the boat clockwise–once again restoring the original apparent wind angle. 

Note that unlike our previous balancing act with sail trim and helm lashings, the mechanics of the self-steering windvane work the same regardless of what point of sail we are on. Whether our boat is close hauled, reaching, or running makes no difference. The windvane is always steering the boat such that it remains at constant angle to the wind.

Now the problem I have come across with this type of windvane is not that it doesn’t steer, but that it steers a bit too vigorously. Contributing to the problem in my case was that my original trim tab was too large. I have since remedied this problem, the trim tab appears to be the correct size–any smaller and it will not have sufficient thrust to move the rudder. Yet still the problem remains that when the trim tab moves the rudder by a change in apparent wind, there is typically a lag time between the rudder response and the air paddle returning to it’s original attitude. And during this lag time the steering vane tends to overshoot the course correction and end up needing another correction back the other way. Sometimes this can result in a kind of feedback loop which has the boat swerving left and right.

Perhaps an example would help to clarify the over steering problem. Say I am sailing on a beam reach (90 degrees true), so the apparent wind is say 80 degrees. Now she wanders off the wind a bit so that the apparent wind is now 95 degrees. This roughly rotates the air paddle and trim tab by 15 degrees, which pushes on the rudder causing it to “helm down” (push the tiller to leeward), or steer the boat back toward the wind. However, due to the aforementioned lag, the boat will not only come back to 80 apparent (90 true), but frequently overshoot it before the air paddle registers 80 apparent again. Hence the boat may be at 65 apparent (80 true) before the air paddle catches up. But now the boat is sailing too close to the wind, and so it causes the rudder to helm up, steering her away from the wind but overshoots again, ending up at say 110 true before is corrects yet again, and on and on.

This is what is meant by over-steering. By moving the rudder too far, too fast, it causes the boat to steer a slalom course, to “steer against itself”. So what is needed is to slow the windvane response down, to decrease the amplitude of the rudder corrections so that when the boat has returned to its original heading the air paddle has had a chance to catch up and say “ok, we’re back on course, I can rest now”.

The simplest and most intuitive way to decrease the amplitude of rudder/tiller movements is by attaching shock cords. I discussed this in my previous article. While this certainly helped, and I sailed with this arrangement for many miles, the shock cords were directly countering–fighting against–the action of the trim tab. In brisk conditions, with the boat moving near hull speed, these forces are considerable. The result is that it wore out shock cords quite quickly and put unnecessary strain on the tiller, rudder, pintles and gudgeons. Harkening back to my physics days, I would say that this is a simple but not elegant solution to the problem.

So instead of fighting the trim tab, how about implementing some sort of re-centering mechanism on the trim tab which decreases the amplitude of tiller movements and slows down the course corrections? So for example if the boat is balanced with the tiller 5 degrees “up”, then we want some arrangement so that whenever the tiller moves either side of this orientation the trim tab wants to push it back to its balanced setting while still allowing the air paddle enough freedom to steer the boat. Such was the genesis of the Boothby-Hasler Self-Steering Windvane.

Let’s have a look at Boothby-Hasler first, then I shall explain how it works.

Looking at Figure 7 above we see that Boothby-Hasler is identical to the Hasler vane except for the addition of a trim tab tiller and a set of shock cords. Simple as that.

Let’s now examine how it works. Let’s begin with the vane disengaged and the boat is sailing at a decent clip. Now say I helm up, that is, I push the tiller to windward (toward the top of the screen). This will rotate the rudder clockwise . As seen in Fig. 8 below, this will pull on the leeward (toward the bottom of the screen) shock cord and slacken the windward one. Pulling on the leeward shock cord pulls on the leeward half of the trim tab tiller, rotating the trim tab in a clockwise direction. Recall from earlier that the trim tab will rotate the rudder in the opposite direction, hence a clockwise rotation in the trim tab will cause a counter-clockwise rotation in the rudder. Thus: we pushed the tiller to rotate the rudder in a clockwise direction and the attached shock cords to rotated the trim tab also in a clockwise direction, which in turn rotated the rudder counter-clockwise–back to it’s original orientation. And so we now have our centering “return the tiller to its original setting” bias effected by the trim tab.

So now we can engage the air paddle with our Boothby-Hasler shock cords suitably tensioned (and sized–this will of course vary from boat to boat). The windvane still operates in the same way as the Hasler detailed above, but the tiller movements are being contained and dampened by the re-centering effect of the shock cords on the trim tab tiller. I find that this will effectively slow down the course correcting by the engaged windvane so as to prevent over steering, and with far less stresses and strains than the more crude method of attaching the shock cords directly to the tiller.

The Evidence

Below is a short video I put together which I hope illustrates the behaviors of Hasler, Hasler with shock cords direct to the tiller, and Boothby-Hasler, respectively.

OK, now for some hard numbers. In an effort to quantify the relative performance of Hasler vs. Boothby-Hasler, I conducted the following tests. Over the course of a 3-minute time period I recorded the vessel heading as indicated by the GPS every 10 seconds, as can be seen in Table 1 below. While perhaps a bit crude, as there is slop in the ongoing GPS calculation of the vessel’s heading, nonetheless it appears adequate for our purpose. 

I ran three such sets of tests. The first test compared the two self-steering setups on a broad reach in 10-15 knots of wind. The results are shown in Graph 1.

Where wander is the difference between the heading recorded (in degrees True) at each 10 second time stamp and the average course steered over the 3-minute test period. Average course steered for both tests was about 140 T. I then compared the standard deviation (square root of the variance) of the wander between the two tests. In this case, Boothby-Hasler’s standard deviation was about half that of Hasler–a considerable reduction in the wander. 

The second set of tests were conducted with the boat on a beam reach in 6-8 knots of wind. The results are shown in Graph 2 below:

On a beam reach, in this case, there was little difference between the two setups. Indeed when close hauled or close reaching I have noticed that both arrangements work well, which should not be too surprising, for as we discussed earlier, many boats will maintain their heading without any mechanical steering device when the wind is forward of the beam.

I conducted the third set of tests once again on a broad reach with the wind around 10 knots. The results are shown below in Graph 3:

Once again we see that Boothby-Hasler really shines on a broad reach, where the std dev of the wander of Boothby-Hasler is about one third of Hasler.

Admittedly my sample size is small. More tests are needed in a greater variety of conditions. Also I am only working with one boat, my own. Nonetheless, these three sets of tests, combined with the video evidence, combined with several thousand miles of sailing with it, I think already make a compelling case that Boothby-Hasler significantly improves the performance of a Hasler-type self steering windvane. And it is still something you can put together in your garage with materials purchased from your local chandlery and/or hardware store.

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Windvane Steering

Windvane self-steering options fall into two categories, servo pendulum and auxiliary rudder. Servo pendulum solutions utilize your boat’s own rudder and as the name suggests, auxiliary rudder products work with a separate, independent rudder system.

We believe servo-pendulum systems like the Monitor are usually your best option. They are more powerful, and perform better across a wider range of conditions on most boats and never require assistance from your autopilot.

You'll find a comprehensive review of the comparative merits of both systems at " Auxiliary Rudder vs. Servo-Pendulum " in our library.

At Scanmar, we manufacture the Monitor Windvane servo pendulum system, and the Saye’s Rig, which is often the best choice for very large boats with high freeboard.

Whatever your unique requirements, we have a self-steering solution for you.

The Monitor and TopHat 

Saye's rig.

© 2020 Scanmar International, Inc. All Rights Reserved. By Elev 8 Valley 

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Building a self steering wind vane

• Thread starter alaskaflyfish
• Start date Sep 8, 2016
• Brand-Specific Forums

alaskaflyfish

 For my winter project I intend on building a self steering wind vane. I have purchased Bill Belcher's book " How to plan and  make your own" but before I get started I wanted to ask the Vega group if anybody has tried this and what model do you feel is best suited for the Vega. I have never seen a wind vane in real life so I have limited knowledge. I have walked around both Seward and Homer boat harbors and nobody has one on their vessel. I have only seen pictures. As a side note, I would like at some point to install a outboard kicker bracket to the transom so the wind vane would have to operate with that installed. Any advice from experienced hands would be appreciated.  

I have no experience and in spite of that recommend this book: Self-Steering for Sailing Craft: John S. Letcher Jr.: 9780877420422: Amazon.com: Books Perhaps you could find it in a library. I read http://windpilot.com/n/pdf/bookeng.pdf but don;t really remember it. Cheap at twice the price.  

Self-Steering Gear -- Build a trim-tab based wind vane or autopilot self-steering system for your boat

Tomfentonvega2977beowulf.

My vega came with a Monitor windvane system. It was easy to use, incredibly accurate and robust, and we used it all the time even on quite short passages. It was over-engineered for the Vega and would have been quite capable of steering a boat twice the size or more. The mounting was heavy and took up most of the transom. I briefly had a Rival 32 with a Windpilot Pacific, which took up far less space, and there was room beside it for a boarding ladder, so presumably also for your outboard bracket. Tom  

I have no knowledge about windvanes, sorry ... but I sure would be interested in the install of that outboard kicker bracket. I'd be grateful if you'd keep your us posted on how that develops. I've been thinking about doing the same thing.  

On my first Vega in the mid 70's it came with a early model Hasler windvane. I used it extensively and was very pleased with the performance. The Hasler is a pretty basic unit,not too difficult to build a similar unit, but would not be as powerfull as the later models.  

As powerful as you want to build it if home built. Plus the satisfaction of several thousand dollars still in your pocket and the satisfaction of having done it yourself. Duckworth mag has a lot of info on building naca rudders and foils which will help if you go with a second rudder and trim tab. The really nice thing about a trim tab is that a balanced naca foil turns very easily but can control a large load like a rudder. Made with positive feedback, this system will correct much faster than a helmsman could. An added benefit is your tiller pilot can be tied to the trim tab meaning very little power required and little mechanical wear with the obvious benefits. Another benefit is no hodgepodge of lines and blocks in the cockpit! Gordon On 9/9/2016 11:01 AM, coe.richard@... [AlbinVega] wrote:  

Hello, I just left Alaska a year ago. Did you buy your Vega up there? And do you plan sailing up there? Very curious. Someday, I want to sail up there, then to Kodiak.  

Hi Gordon, I agree the second rudder with a trim-tab seems like the best choice. The servo-pendulum style is more modern and powerful but the sweeping pendulum motion really reduces transom space for things like outboard mounts and swim ladders. So I think I will try the second rudder with trim-tab. I like the redundancy of a spare rudder. I just wonder if anybody else has tried this style and how effective was it on all points of sail? I like the idea of the system being smallish and removable, or to at least swing upwards out of the water to reduce drag when not needed. It seems like the second rudder style are very large compared to the sleek servo pendulum.  

Hi Craig, Yes, I purchased the Vega in Juneau and moved it over road on a trailer using truck and ferries. My idea for sailing is getting to know the boat in AK waters but going south as soon as I can cause its so freaking cold up here!  

Trim tab or pendulum. Both have their pros and cons. Trim tab system lighter and less complicated but will stick out a ways. Read and reread all the data available before your final decision and design. Gordon On 9/9/2016 3:03 PM, alaskaflyfish@... [AlbinVega] wrote:  

dade_jeremy

Hi All, Interesting to read the comments on self steering systems. I don't have the time to build one myself so was looking at affordable self steering systems. I was wondering if any Vega owners had had experience of the Hebridean wind vane?  

I looked at the Hebridean wind vane kit and was impressed on its simplicity. It seems that it would work as advertised and replacement parts would be easy to fabricate. It is a pendulum style wind vane so it is efficient and powerful. The down side is that it would dominate your transom with its sweeping motion and would leave little room for outboard motor brackets and boarding ladders etc.. unless modifications to the attach brackets could be made to extend further aft. At this time I am interested in the Aux Rudder w/ trim tab style. It takes up less room on the transom and can be used as a back-up rudder if needed. Lots to think about, there is no easy answer. The Hebridean is inexpensive compared to others and may be a good choice for that fact alone. Cheers. From: "dade_jeremy@... [AlbinVega]" [email protected] To: [email protected] Sent: Wednesday, November 9, 2016 11:10 PM Subject: Re: [AlbinVega] Re: Building a self steering wind vane Hi All, Interesting to read the comments on self steering systems. I don't have the time to build one myself so was looking at affordable self steering systems. I was wondering if any Vega owners had had experience of the Hebridean wind vane? #ygrps-yiv-1156553957 #ygrps-yiv-1156553957yiv3383024693 #ygrps-yiv-1156553957yiv3383024693 -- #ygrps-yiv-1156553957yiv3383024693ygrp-mkp { border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;} #ygrps-yiv-1156553957 #ygrps-yiv-1156553957yiv3383024693 #ygrps-yiv-1156553957yiv3383024693ygrp-mkp hr { border:1px solid #d8d8d8;} #ygrps-yiv-1156553957 #ygrps-yiv-1156553957yiv3383024693 #ygrps-yiv-1156553957yiv3383024693ygrp-mkp #ygrps-yiv-1156553957yiv3383024693hd { color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;} #ygrps-yiv-1156553957 #ygrps-yiv-1156553957yiv3383024693 #ygrps-yiv-1156553957yiv3383024693ygrp-mkp #ygrps-yiv-1156553957yiv3383024693ads { margin-bottom:10px;} #ygrps-yiv-1156553957 #ygrps-yiv-1156553957yiv3383024693 #ygrps-yiv-1156553957yiv3383024693ygrp-mkp .ygrps-yiv-1156553957yiv3383024693ad { padding:0 0;} #ygrps-yiv-1156553957 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Wind vane self steering systems for boats

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sailboat wind vane self-steering system Integrated

For boats with transom or canoe stern. Integrated into the stern of the boat, the CapeHorn self-steering gear is virtually as strong as the boat itself. The horizontal axle passes through the transom to locate the CapeHorn control ...

sailboat wind vane self-steering system OUTBOARD

When an integrated installation is not possible or on boats with outboard rudder. Varuna for boats up to 40 feet and Joshua, for larger boats. Come with the stainless steel frame needed for mounting on transom. On a scoop stern, ...

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Neu-Samara Mennonite Settlement (Samara Oblast, Russia)

Neu-Samara ( Pleshanov ) was a Mennonite settlement in the northern part of the fertile section of Samara , Russia , about 125 miles (210 km) east of the city by the same name. It was founded in 1890 as a daughter settlement of Molotschna and embraced 59,400 acres of land. In 1926 it numbered 3,071 Mennonite and 66 non-Mennonite inhabitants, who lived in twelve villages and five single farms.

See also Pleshanov .

Bibliography

Hege, Christian and Christian Neff. Mennonitisches Lexikon, 4 vols. Frankfurt & Weierhof: Hege; Karlsruhe: Schneider, 1913-1967: v. III, 219.

Cite This Article

, . "Neu-Samara Mennonite Settlement (Samara Oblast, Russia)." Global Anabaptist Mennonite Encyclopedia Online . 1957. Web. 19 Sep 2024. https://gameo.org/index.php?title=Neu-Samara_Mennonite_Settlement_(Samara_Oblast,_Russia)&oldid=135008 .

, . (1957). Neu-Samara Mennonite Settlement (Samara Oblast, Russia). Global Anabaptist Mennonite Encyclopedia Online . Retrieved 19 September 2024, from https://gameo.org/index.php?title=Neu-Samara_Mennonite_Settlement_(Samara_Oblast,_Russia)&oldid=135008 .

Adapted by permission of Herald Press , Harrisonburg, Virginia, from Mennonite Encyclopedia , Vol. 3, p. 856; vol. 4, p. 1147. All rights reserved.

©1996-2024 by the Global Anabaptist Mennonite Encyclopedia Online. All rights reserved.

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• Year after freshman
• Stout-billed finches
• Julius Caesars wife as per Shakespeare
• Game where players use tweezers to remove ailments
• To rise and fall in an irregular manner
• Procedure to look inside a cavity in the body
• Karma karma karma karma karma __
• Attractively
• Very small sum of money lent at low interest rate
• She makes colorful designs for school supplies
• Peaks where you can go hiking or biking

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