rolex yacht master rose gold 40mm

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A Week On The Wrist The Rolex Yachtmaster 40mm With Oysterflex Bracelet

For the first time, rolex is delivering a watch on a rubber strap – except in classic rolex fashion it's not a rubber strap at all. it's a beautifully over-engineered bracelet called the oysterflex..

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There is big news, and there is Rolex big news, and in some ways, ne'er the twain shall meet. At Baselworld this year, Rolex debuted a first for the company: the very first, ever, Rolex delivered on a rubber strap. Now, for most companies this would have little effect on watch enthusiasts other than to evoke (very) tepid interest at best, and boredom at worst – but this is not an ordinary rubber strap, this is an official, designed-and-tested-and-thoroughly-obsessed-over-by-Rolex rubber strap. And thereby hangs a tale.

The Yachtmaster, as we have mentioned in some of our previous coverage , occupies a somewhat particular place in Rolex’s lineup of sports watches; it shares water-resistance and a turning bezel with the Submariner (the latter is water resistant to 300 m while the Yachtmaster standard model is water resistant to 100 m). It is certainly not a tool watch; the Yachtmaster is offered in either platinum and steel, or gold and steel (that’s Rolesium and Rolesor, lest we forget) and is either quietly or unequivocally luxurious depending on what size and metal you go for (Rolex makes the Yachtmaster in both 35 mm and 40 mm sizes). 

The Yachtmaster’s history goes back to the first introduction of the watch in 1992, although the name, interestingly enough, appears on the dial of a prototype Yachtmaster Chronograph from the late 1960s (a watch so legendary I am actually forced to use the word; one of three known is in the collection of Mr. John Goldberger; we covered it – and a host of other remarkable ultra-rare watches from his collection – in a very memorable episode of Talking Watches ).

The term “Yachtmaster” is also, incidentally, used for a certificate of competency in yachting which is issued by the Royal Yachting Association, although we’re unaware of any specific association between the RYA and the Yachtmaster watch.

Now, this newest version of the Yachtmaster does take a few pages from the existing Yachtmaster playbook: 100-meter water resistance, a bidirectional turning bezel, and a dial and hands that echo the Submariner. There are also a couple of features that may make vintage Sub enthusiasts wonder if Rolex mightn’t have an exceedingly subtle sense of humor; the gilt coronet and “Rolex,” and the red lettering, both features which according to HODINKEE founder Ben Clymer would have, had they appeared on a Rolex dive watch, made it instantly the single most popular watch in the modern Rolex inventory. The case is rose gold – Rolex famously makes their own, called Everose, in their own foundry, with a bit of platinum mixed in to prevent discoloration – and the bezel, rather than being some other precious metal (as is the case in the “standard” Yachtmasters) is in black Cerachrom – a very technical-looking matte black that contrasts sharply with the gold case. Somehow, between the rose gold, the Cerachrom bezel, and the new Oysterflex bracelet this manages to be the most luxurious and at the same time most technical Yachtmaster yet (leaving aside the Yachtmaster II, which we recently reviewed right here , but that is a watch that marches to the beat of a different drummer entirely).

The two different versions of the Everose Yachtmaster (40 mm and 37 mm) sport different movements; the larger uses the caliber 3135 and the smaller, the newer 2236, which sports the “Syloxi” silicon balance spring (first used by Rolex in 2014).

The Oysterflex bracelet is, in a nutshell, quite a piece of work. One of the most endearing traits of Rolex as a company is that it tends to demonstrate what we can only describe as a laudable degree of corporate obsessive-compulsive disorder when it comes to research and development, and it does so, often, without making any sort of fanfare about it at all. In this case we do know a little bit about the Oysterflex, however – it is basically designed to have the hypoallergenic and comfort properties of a rubber strap and the durability and shape-retention properties of a bracelet. 

At the core of the Oysterflex bracelet are metal inserts made of titanium and nickel, which are used to affix the bracelet to the clasp and watch case; over those is a sheathing of “high-performance black elastomer.” “Elastomer” is a portmanteau word, formed from “elastic” and “polymer” and is a general term for natural and synthetic rubbers. In addition to the materials complexity of the Oysterflex bracelet, it is also shaped in a rather unusual fashion – there are ridges molded into the the wristward face of the bracelet, which are intended to allow the bracelet when worn to better approximate the natural curvature of the wrist.

They might look a bit odd but in practice, the design works out quite wonderfully; this is easily the most downright comfortable and organic-feeling rubber strap I have ever worn, and like the entire watch manages to be both extremely technical in feel, and very luxurious at the same time; I doubt whether any company has ever taken so much trouble over the design of a strap (for all that Rolex prefers the term “bracelet” in describing the Oysterflex, habit dies hard and you’ll probably find yourself calling it a strap, just as we did). On the wrist, the two stabilizing ridges do exactly what they are supposed to: keep the watch from shifting, as heavier watches on rubber straps are wont to do, without requiring you to have the strap uncomfortably tight. The Everose Oysterlock clasp does a superb job mechanically and also looks fabulous into the bargain; the quality of finish on the clasp and case may not seem terribly elaborate at first, but it is as technically flawless as anything I have ever seen at any price, on any watch.

What we have here, in other words, is a very Rolex interpretation of luxury. Yes, this is a gold watch, and a gold Rolex, and wearing a gold Rolex always carries with it, shall we say, certain semiotic complexities. However there is also another side to the watch, and to the Rolex approach to luxury in general: the taking of such pains to produce technical perfection that technical perfection becomes a luxury in itself.

The Everose Rolex Yachtmaster, in Rolex Everose, with Everose Oysterclasp and Oysterflex bracelet, as shown, $22,000 in 37 mm, and $24,950 in 40 mm. For more info, check out Rolex.com.

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Rolex Yachtmaster 116655 Full Review

Behold the  new rose gold Rolex Yachtmaster with the Rolex Oysterflex Bracelet: Rolex's 1st Rubber Strap

With the new rose gold Rolex Yachtmaster, Rolex watchmakers held no punches and put in nearly every great idea they ever had into one amazing watch. The Rolex Yachtmaster has been around since the early '90s and came in an assortment of materials from gold and steel all the way up to platinum. They are known for being shiny and luxurious from one end to the next. So it comes as no surprise that the world was taken by a storm when they decided to use rubber to introduce the new Rolex Yachtmaster watch reference #116655 . Was it a step up or a step down for the series? PrestigeTime.com bloggers believe that pictures speak much louder than words.

The new men's Yachtmaster from Rolex is a 40mm 18k rose gold case watch with a black dial and accented in Rolex's very own Everose gold. Just like their proprietary 18kt rose gold alloy, Rolex will always prefer to create the status quo and not have to rise to meet it because of anyone else.

In the new rose gold Rolex Yachtmaster, they held no punches and put in nearly every great idea they ever had into one amazing watch.

At the core lies their in-house Rolex movement, the automatic caliber 3135 which resonates at 28,800 vph containing 31 jewels and has a whopping 50-hour power reserve. Of course, it would not be complete without their "Cyclops" magnifier. The new rose gold Rolex Yachtmaster is also known as the m116655-0001.

Rolex is also no stranger to trending luxury watches. They tend to be the first in doing and introducing many things. While rubber has been around for a long time and has been used on many watches over the years, both high-end luxury watches and everything else. Rubber had no place on a Rolex watch until now. Rolex waited this long to introduce this material into their products not because they were hesitant to be part of the trend, on the contrary, 

they wanted to revolutionize the rubber watch band before using it on their first-ever rubber strapped watch. Creating the best rubber bracelet was something Rolex obsessed about until its perfection. Enter the new Rolex  Oysterflex bracelet which we hope to see on more of their men's watches. A rubber-coated two-piece titanium bracelet with a patented cushioning system. The black elastomer coating is a similar substance to what you see on the Apple Watch. The bracelet has an Oysterlock clasp in solid 18k Everose gold which seals the deal. Rolex held nothing back in reinventing and over-engineering the perfect rubber bracelet that has the same elasticity as a metal bracelet without the initial cold feeling of a metal bracelet when first placed on a wrist. Now it's just a matter of time before a platinum Rolex comes with a rubber Oysterflex bracelet.

In 2015 Rolex introduces the Rolex Yachtmaster watch model #116655, the first Rolex watch with the all-new rubber Oysterflex band with an 18k rose gold clasp. After its creation, they saw all that they have made …and it was good.

Most recently this watch has been upgraded with a new movement and new reference number that we sell new, in its original box, with a warranty, and with free shipping to the United States. The new Rolex 126655 Yachtmaster 40mm is essentially the same watch with a few improvements. Specifically, the caliber inside has been replaced with the Rolex in-house caliber 3235, a Superlative Chronometer with exceptional precision, 31 watch jewels, Paraflex shock absorbers, and a substantially longer power reserve duration of approximately 70 hours.

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Which Would You Choose? The Rolex Yacht-Master Everose 37mm vs 40mm

The Yacht-Master has been an unashamedly high-end variation on the Submariner theme ever since it launched back in 1992. Only available in the most precious of precious metals, including being the watch to introduce Rolex’s own steel and platinum alloy Rolesium to the world, it has always been aimed squarely at the luxuriously active lifestyle market.

So the release of the two Everose gold, black dial versions in 2015 raised some luxuriously active eyebrows. With nothing quite like it emerging from the Rolex lair before, the 40mm ref. 116655 and its smaller brother, the 37mm ref. 268655 played host to several pioneering features.

They became the first Yacht-Masters to sport matt black dials, a more restrained but still unmistakably masculine element which is echoed across onto the sandblasted bezels; again, the only time Cerachrom has been used in the series.

Housing two different calibers, the Cal. 3135 inside the 40mm version has been a staple of Rolex watches for nearly 30 years, but the 2236 that powers the 37mm is their first movement to contain a silicon composite, or Syloxi, hairspring. Found originally in the ladies Datejust Pearlmaster range, the smaller Yacht-Master became the first men’s watch with the movement.

But it’s the bracelet, the sophisticated black Oysterflex band , which marked the biggest departure from the norm. What could well be mistaken for a simple rubber strap actually keeps completely true to Rolex’s prevailing theory that anything worth engineering is worth over-engineering.

Inside is a thin titanium nickel alloy blade, overmoulded with a hypoallergenic elastomer. The result is a strap as durable as a metal bracelet and supple enough to conform to the natural shape of your wrist. Two longitudinal ridges underneath play the twin roles of cushioning the watch, preventing it from shifting around as you wear it, while also allowing fresh air to circulate between the strap and your skin to provide more comfort on warm days.

Secured with the same rock solid Oysterlock clasp you’d find on the brand’s metal bracelets, Rolex’s first foray into rubber straps is a typically striking one.

Overall, the dramatically different Yacht-Master duo has proved extremely popular. The unorthodox combination of Everose and black gives the watch an aura of coolness it hasn’t had before and has also made its way onto the latest generation of the watch world’s current hottest player, the Cosmograph Daytona.

In fact, there’s just one debating point that remains amongst the brand faithful. The Yacht-Master is the only sports watch in the range to be offered in a choice of sizes.

Let’s take a look at what that distinction means.

37mm versus 40mm

First off, let’s get the financials out of the way. There is understandably a price difference between the two, but it’s hardly what you’d call a gulf and won’t be a factor for the Yacht-Master’s target audience. Those with enough buying power to spend $22,000 on a watch are unlikely to suddenly balk at $25,000.

So the choice comes down to one of aesthetics. On its launch in 1992, the Yacht-Master was actually available in three different sizes—a 29mm ladies version, a mid-size 35mm and the full-scale 40mm. Today, there is no official ladies size, but the new 37mm watch is listed under both the men’s and women’s section on the Rolex website.

The main reason is obviously the current trend for women wearing larger watches, but another factor could be the use of Everose gold. The pinkish quality of the metal sees it blend in slightly with skin tones, making the watch appear smaller than it actually is.

However, out of the Yacht-Master range, the black dial and bezel variants are definitely the least showy, and the 37mm case is also a popular choice for men content to wear a very discreet watch; one that doesn’t need to shout, fits more comfortably under a shirt sleeve and benefits from a lighter overall weight.

As for the 40mm watch, what would have been considered exceptionally large a few decades ago, is now very much an average. With that Everose effect of wearing smaller than the actual size, even men with slender wrists who usually opt for more modest pieces have been deciding to wear the bigger of the two models.

For an added bonus, with the contemporary thinking of bigger equals better, 40mm Yacht-Masters are enjoying a healthier resale value on the pre-owned market, if you decide you want to sell it on at some point down the road.

Conclusion on the Everose Yacht-Master

So, 37mm or 40mm? There is, of course, no right or wrong answer. The only choice is which size is better for you.

Whichever you choose, what you’ll come away with is a very interesting chapter in Rolex’s long running story. The Swiss watchmaking colossus has a history of quietly releasing radically altered variants on some of their most timeless designs. The 116655 and 268655 appeared with very little fanfare and have gone on to become real favorites among the brand’s devotees.

Whether they will go on to become all-time classics, it’s too soon to call. But with just enough subtle nods to Rolex’s illustrious past, such as picking the Yacht-Master name out in red, harking back to the Double Red Sea-Dwellers of the sixties, and combining them with a host of never-before-seen features, I wouldn’t bet against it.

About Paul Altieri

Paul Altieri is a vintage and pre-owned Rolex specialist, entrepreneur, and the founder and CEO of BobsWatches.com. - the largest and most trusted name in luxury watches. He is widely considered a pioneer in the industry for bringing transparency and innovation to a once-considered stagnant industry. His experience spans over 35 years and he has been published in numerous publications including Forbes, The NY Times, WatchPro, and Fortune Magazine. Paul is committed to staying up-to-date with the latest research and developments in the watch industry and e-commerce, and regularly engages with other professionals in the industry. He is a member of the IWJG, the AWCI and a graduate of the GIA. Alongside running the premier retailer of pre-owned Rolex watches, Paul is a prominent Rolex watch collector himself amassing one of the largest private collections of rare timepieces. In an interview with the WSJ lifestyle/fashion editor Christina Binkley, Paul opened his vault to display his extensive collection of vintage Rolex Submariners and Daytonas. Paul Altieri is a trusted and recognized authority in the watch industry with a proven track record of expertise, professionalism, and commitment to excellence.

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.css-1c7en8u{font-size:clamp(1.375rem, 1.25rem + 0.3125vw, 3.125rem);line-height:1.1;margin-bottom:1rem;} Yacht-Master 40 .css-1g7r01k{font-weight:300;font-size:clamp(0.875rem, 0.9375rem + 0.1563vw, 1.25rem);line-height:1.2;text-wrap:balance;}.css-1g7r01k span{display:block;} Oyster, 40 mm, Everose gold Reference 126655

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Staying on course

The Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 40 in 18 kt Everose gold with an Oysterflex bracelet.

Diamond-paved dial, optimal brilliance.

Diamonds, sapphires, rubies, emeralds – the noblest and most precious stones are selected to grace Rolex timepieces. The brand has in-house expertise and equipment enabling it to bejewel any model in its catalogue.

Experienced gemmologists first select gemstones of the highest quality. For this, they can rely on their own seasoned judgement as well as state-of-the-art analysis equipment. The stones are then entrusted to the gem-setters, who skilfully place each precious stone onto the watch by hand, one by one, assuring precision to within hundredths of a millimetre. Such stringent tolerances guarantee that each stone shines with optimal brilliance and is perfectly aligned with those around it. These time-honoured gestures, which may be repeated many hundreds of times, ensure that each gem-set watch produced by Rolex sparkles with exceptional intensity and reflects the standard of excellence required by the brand.

Bidirectional Rotatable Bezel

Timing the distance.

The Yacht-Master’s bidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel is made entirely from precious metals or fitted with a Cerachrom insert in high-tech ceramic. The raised polished numerals and graduations stand out clearly against a matt, sand-blasted background.

This functional bezel – which allows the wearer to calculate, for example, the sailing time between two buoys – is also a key component in the model’s distinctive visual identity.

The Oysterflex Bracelet

Highly resistant and durable.

The Yacht-Master’s new Oysterflex bracelet, developed by Rolex and patented, offers a sporty alternative to metal bracelets. The bracelet attaches to the watch case and the Oysterlock safety clasp by a flexible titanium and nickel alloy metal blade.

The blade is overmoulded with high-performance black elastomer which is particularly resistant to environmental effects, very durable and perfectly inert for the wearer of the watch. For enhanced comfort, the inside of the Oysterflex bracelet is equipped with a patented longitudinal cushion system that stabilizes the watch on the wrist and fitted with an 18 kt Everose gold Oysterlock safety clasp. It also features the Rolex Glidelock extension system, designed by the brand and patented. This inventive toothed mechanism, integrated beneath the clasp, allows fine adjustment of the bracelet length by some 15 mm in increments of approximately 2.5 mm, without the use of tools.

18 kt Everose gold

An exclusive patent

To preserve the beauty of its pink gold watches, Rolex created and patented an exclusive 18 kt pink gold alloy cast in its own foundry: Everose gold.

Introduced in 2005, 18 kt Everose is used on all Rolex Oyster models in pink gold.

More Yacht-Master technical details

Reference   126655

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Oyster, 40 mm, Everose gold

Oyster architecture

Monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown

Bidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel with matt black Cerachrom insert in ceramic, polished raised numerals and graduations

Winding crown

Screw-down, Triplock triple waterproofness system

Scratch-resistant sapphire, Cyclops lens over the date

Water resistance

Waterproof to 100 metres / 330 feet

Perpetual, mechanical, self-winding

3235, Manufacture Rolex

-2/+2 sec/day, after casing

Centre hour, minute and seconds hands. Instantaneous date with rapid setting. Stop-seconds for precise time setting

Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring. High-performance Paraflex shock absorbers

Bidirectional self-winding via Perpetual rotor

Power reserve

Approximately 70 hours

Flexible metal blades overmoulded with high-performance elastomer

Folding Oysterlock safety clasp with Rolex Glidelock extension system

Diamond-paved

Highly legible Chromalight display with long-lasting blue luminescence

Certification

Superlative Chronometer (COSC + Rolex certification after casing)

Learn how to set the time and other functions of your Rolex watch by consulting our user guides.

Yacht-Master 40

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