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Rig Building

Rig building

Model Build - Bluenose II

The aim of this blog is to document the building of a 1:44 scale model of the Nova Scotia schooner Bluenose II by a "first timer". The construction is based on re-working a pre-built model to more accurately reflect the full-size ship.

Tuesday 22 March 2016

23 - rigging.

3 comments:

Beautiful job. What plans are available for purchase or on the web? First time doing schooner rig and I'm not finding much.

http://www.modelshipbuilder.com/page.php?26

Not aware of any plans for purchase. In fact, it is unlikely that any plans existed for the original boat. That was why the owners of the Bluenose II contracted with LB Jenson to produce the measured drawings. I was fortunate enough to find a copy of the book for purchase. My only recommendation is to check on Amazon (there was one used copy when I looked (May 2021) or library sources.

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Bluenose Canadian Schooner

Rigging Begins

June 23, 2017

Fact check…I’m not great at rigging. Rigging is a pretty specific skill, unique to model ship building, and this is only my second build. On my Phantom build , I kinda rushed through rigging and just tied a bunch of knots. I’m determined to do better this time.

The Plan for Rigging

In looking at other build logs, it seems that many modelers prefer to prepare as much rigging as possible before the masts are mounted on the ship. This has some pros and cons…

You can move the mast around to get a better angle to work.
You don’t have to reach around existing rigging lines to attach things.
You will likely use more rigging line, since you can’t precisely size each line. You have to leave extra length on each run to ensure it is long enough.
You have a mess of rigging lines that you need to keep organized.
You have to do a bunch of work before you see any results.

On my Phantom build, I did all the rigging in place, after the masts were installed. This time, I’m going to pre-rig what I can.

The general plan:

Attach all the blocks, shackles, etc. to the masts, booms, and gaffs.
Attach as many of the rigging lines as possible to the masts, booms, and gaffs.
Leave each line with extra length, and coil the lines up.
Tag each line with a sticker noting which line it is.
Mount the masts.
Run the shrouds and attach them to the deadeyes on the hull.
Run the remaining standing rigging.

Over the last few months, I’ve spent a lot of time reviewing the plans and attempting to identify each rigging line. There are some details that are not very clear on the plans, so I’ve had to research a few items. I’m sure that I’ve got some things wrong, but I think my rigging notes are good enough to get me started.

In preparation, I’ve made the following documents:

A diagram of all the rigging, prepared in Adobe Photoshop, that shows each rigging line using a color-coded line. The different types of lines are on different layers, allowing me to turn them on and off to isolate lines by type.
Diagrams of each line, showing how each line is attached, including what kind of splice, seizing, hook, shackle, etc. is used, as well as any blocks.
A spreadsheet of all the lines, indicating the starting point, ending point, color, line size on the model, and where it is shown on the plans.

The spreadsheet assigns a unique number to each line so I can keep track of things as I’m working. I’ve identified 89 different lines.

Types of Rigging Lines

There are two main ‘categories’ of rigging: standing and running. I’ve never been on a boat, much less a sailing ship, so my knowledge is limited to what I’ve learned over the last couple of years.

From what I’ve seen, standing rigging includes all the lines that hold the masts up. These are typically fairly heavy, and are relatively ‘fixed’. (They can be adjusted through lanyards and such, but they typically do not involve blocks or pulleys.). Running rigging includes all the lines that hold up the sails and adjust how the sails are angled against the wind.

Standing Rigging

On model ships, standing rigging is often done with black rigging line.

The shrouds are rigging lines that hold the masts up by their sides. There are normally several shrouds for each mast. The Bluenose has 4 shrouds for the each lower mast , on each side, for a total of 16. It also has a shroud running down from the top mast , adding another 4. These 20 shrouds are run down to the main rail, where they are secured to the deadeyes on the chain plates .

Finally, there are two top mast shrouds on the main mast, that run from the top of top mast to the trestle tree .

Stays hold the masts on the fore and aft sides. There are a number of different stays on the Bluenose. A few run between the main and fore masts, while several others run down to the deck or bowsprit .

Running Rigging

Most (all?) of the running rigging on a model ship is done with tan rigging line.

The term halliard comes from ‘haul yard’, and refers to lines that raise things. The halliards tend to be some of the more complex rigging lines. They typically have a number of blocks, and often weave back and forth.

The lifts hold tings up, like booms. The Bluenose has lifts for the main boom, the fore boom, and the jumbo jib boom. A couple short spreader lifts hold up the spreaders on the fore mast.

The term tackle seems to refer more the actual pieces that form the pulleys. However, there are a few lines on the Bluenose that the plans refer to as tackles , so I’m using that term here.

The Bluenose has a tackle on the bottom of the main boom and fore boom. It also has tackles for lifting the dories on both the port and starboard sides.

The sheets are lines that control the corner of a sail. They can keep tension, as well as control the movement of the sail. Many of these seem to be capable of running on either the port or starboard side.

The tacks are fairly simply lines that hold down the bottom corner of sails.

The downhauls run from the top of the sail down, and are used to pull the sail down when it is being stowed.

Miscellaneous Rigging

These might better fit under one of the other categories, but I’m separating them out into a miscellaneous category because they a little different than the other lines.

Ratlines and Footropes

Ratlines are ropes that form ‘ladders’ on the shrouds. These can be used to climb up to the upper portions of the masts.

Footropes are lines that are secured to things like the main boom and the bowsprit (not shown) where they extend outside the ship. Sailors could stand on the footropes when they need to get out to these areas.

Flag Halliards

The flag halliards are technically halliards (they lift something), but they are just used for flags so they tend to be pretty light/simple. The Bluenose has three – one on the main mast, one on the fore mast, and one on the main gaff.

I didn’t bother to draw up the clews , but these are noted on the plans so I’m including them here. The clew lines seem to run along the edges of sails, and are used to pull up the corners of the sails.

There is a LOT of discussion online about what size rigging line should be used for the various lines. Hardcore modelers use all kinds of resources to determine the precise size of rope that would have been used. I’m not that fancy.

The Model Shipways Bluenose kit provides rigging line in a few different sizes: 0.008″ (very thin, like thread), 0.021″ (medium weight), and 0.028″ (thicker). These don’t match what’s indicated on the plans. The plans show a variety of thicknesses, like .006″, .012″, and more.

To make things a little more complicated, I’m replacing all the rigging line in the kit with line from Syren Ship Model Company . The kit line is fine, but Syren’s is way better. The sizes are not always exactly the same, so I went with what was close. The 0.008″ kit line was replaced with 0.008″ Syren line. The 0.021″ kit line was replaced with 0.018″ Syren Line. The 0.028″ kit line was replaced with 0.025″ Syren Line.

I decided to use these lines as follows:

Blocks, Hooks, Shackles and Splices

Knowing where lines go and what size they should be isn’t enough. The details matter. Each line has its own unique usage of blocks, hooks, shackles, splices, etc. Adding all these details accurately makes all the difference in the look of the model.

I’ll just touch on the basics here, and go into more detail about how I’m implementing each piece as I get further into rigging.

There are a number of pieces of hardware that go into the rigging. All these little bits and pieces have specific purposes. Some are supplied by the kit, while others have to be made from scratch.

Blocks are pulleys. (Some hardcore ship guys would probably cringe at that statement, but that is the simplest, easiest explanation).

Rigging lines are run through blocks to make things easier to pull and lift.

On a model ship, the blocks are not actually functional. They don’t have the little wheels. Instead, they are just small wooden pieces with holes drilled through for the lines. Depending on the ship, a kit might have many different sizes and types of blocks.

On the Bluenose, we have single, double, and triple blocks. A single block has one set of holes, representing one ‘wheel’ in the pulley. A double block as two sets, and a triple block has three sets.

The Model Shipways Bluenose kit provides blocks in a number of different sizes. I’m only using the triple blocks. All the others have been replaced by block from Syren Model Ship Company . Syren’s blocks are much higher quality.

Blocks can be attached in a number of different ways. I spent a lot of time going over the plans to determine how each block should be attached. Typically, a hook or loop is attached to the block, which is then attached to a mast/boom/gaff, or to another rigging line. I identified several different configurations:

A block with a single hook attached.
A block with a single loop attached.
A block with a loop on both the top and bottom.
A block with a hook on one end and a loop on the other.

Seizing a block and setting up the hook or loop is a skill that requires a lot of practice. Many modelers have come up with creative jigs and techniques for this.

Several places in the rigging call for hooks . These are fairly simple metal pieces with a ring on one side, and hook on the other. I make mine by bending brass wire.

Shackles are a little more complex. A shackle allows a line to be secured in place, but removed at any time by removing the shackle’s bolt. There are a number of ways to make them. I’ve made some for the bowsprit , and my technique is covered there.

Deadeyes are typically round pieces that are used to secure the shrouds. I installed some of these when I put the chain plates on . Working on the deadeyes is one of my least favorite parts of rigging.

Deadeyes come in pairs, and each pair is held together by a lanyard. This allows the lines to be adjusted to achieve the right tension. Getting them all straight, tight, and even is a pain.

Securing the Lines

To secure the lines to all this hardware, a few different techniques are used. On my first build, I simply tied knots for everything. This time, I’m trying to do things better. My usage of these techniques will not be accurate . In many cases, I’m going to use simple versions of splices and seizings.

Eye Splices

I’ve written about eye splices before. An eye splice is a loop in the end of the line, created by splicing the line back onto itself. Eye splices are much easier to do before the line is attached (in any way) to the ship. Try to do all your eye splices in advance.

Some places call for eye splices that have to be done in place on the ship. In these cases, I’ll be ‘faking it’, but simply seizing the line to itself, wrapping it with thread, and hoping nobody notices.

Seized Loops

A seized loop is common on a model ship. The end result is similar to an eye splice in that it creates a loop, but this technique allows you to tighten the line in place. The line is looped around whatever it is being attached to, pulled tight, then tied to itself with thread.

Lanyards are used in a few places there things need to be pulled tight, but remain adjustable. There are two main types of lanyards on the Bluenose.

The lanyards for the deadeyes are done in the traditional method. There are many diagrams on how to do this. The lanyard is run through the holes in the upper and lower deadeye, they tied off on the shroud.

In other places, like the spreader lifts, lanyards are used to pull the lines tight. For these, I’ll tie the lanyard to the line, then loop it through whatever it is being attached to several times (eye bolt, bail, etc.). Once I’ve got a few loops, I’ll tie it off again.

So, What Next?

Now that I have a plan for the rigging, it is time to get everything I can installed on the masts. The goal is to get everything as complete as it can be before installing the masts.

Unfortunately, it is really hard to document and illustrate this as I go. Also, it would be a little confusing for someone jumping in later looking for assistance with a particular line (they’d see one end of it installed now, and the other end installed much later).

So, to make it easier I’m not going to document the rigging prep I’m doing on the masts. Instead, I’ll jump forward to once the masts are mounted, and fully document each line as I finish it.

Prepping all the rigging on the masts went fairly quickly, taking about a week. Once the prep work was done, all the lines were labeled (I printed some labels). Then I installed the masts.

Serious modelers will tell you not to glue your masts in – the rigging should hold it up if you do it right. The advantage of that is that if you need to remove the masts in the future (repairing damage several years from now), you can.

I’m not good enough at rigging to pull that off, so I glued my masts in place.

Rigging lines and hardware installed on the masts. Each line is coiled and labeled.

The coiled and labeled rigging lines look like a mess, but they are actually pretty well organized. Each line is identified by the number from my spreadsheet as well as its name.

Messy, but still organized.

Now all I have to do is finish attaching all this stuff.

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How to Rig a Model Ship

By Gareth Branwyn

Gareth branwyn.

Gareth Branwyn is a freelance writer and the former Editorial Director of Maker Media. He is the author or editor of over a dozen books on technology, DIY, and geek culture. He is currently a contributor to Boing Boing, Wink Books, and Wink Fun. His free weekly-ish maker tips newsletter can be found at garstipsandtools.com.

Ever since I was an avid model-maker as a kid, and now a game modeler as an adult, I have been fascinated by sailing ship models and ships in bottles. The fact that people take the time to meticulously model all of the rope and rigging on a ship model has always been so impressive to me.

Last year, I backed the historical pirate tabletop wargame, Blood & Plunder . The game uses the most incredible resin-cast ship models. They are supposed to simply be game components, mere playing pieces for a game, but they are incredibly detailed and come with all sorts of hardware and accessories (e.g. deck cannons) to make them look as realistic as possible. I haven’t built mine yet, but I can’t wait.

One of the things I have been intimidated by is the idea of doing all of the rope rigging. But this how to article on the gaming site, 1000 Foot General , breaks the process down and makes it look very approachable. I’m inspired.

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Sail Trimming – By Roger Stollery

Sail trimming.

This article about Sail Trimming appears on the website by kind permission from the editor of Model Boats, Martyn Chorlton who commissioned the article.

Whatever boat you sail, the pleasure of seeing it sail and handle well will depend on how you set the sails before you go on water and what you do with your transmitter once your boat is afloat ( Photo1 ). Hopefully, the tips in this article may help to achieve that pleasure and they apply to all boats that are powered by a jib and a mainsail, irrespective of their size or class. It does not matter whether they are conventionally rigged, rigging less or swing rigged, as the wind cannot distinguish such things as it flows round the sails (Photo 2).

Before going afloat

Always check your sail trim before going afloat. Assuming that your mast is set up as the designer intended with the mast more or less vertical, the following things need to be adjusted; sail camber, boom angles, sail twist. Before making any adjustments, switch on and pull the sails in to your beating trim. Refer to the quick sail trim guide illustrated ( Photo 3 ).

Sail camber

The camber in the mainsail should vary approximately between 1-in-6 and 1-in-12, with less camber as the wind increases. The camber in the jib should be slightly less than that in the mainsail. As sails often have different amounts of fullness cut into them, depending on the manufacturer’s design, assess the camber setting in the area of maximum fullness, not just at the boom. A full cut mainsail may well need very little camber at the boom.

Boom angles

Your beating trim should bring the end of the main boom close to the centre line, but the jib boom should be at a greater angle as shown in the diagram ( Photo 4 ).

Adjust the jib camber so that the angle of the back of the jib doesn’t impinge onto the mainsail, as this will encourage back winding of that sail, which is not a good idea. The wind needs to funnel through the gap or slot between the two sails without undue restriction.

Whilst it is OK to set the boom angles at the bottom of the sails to encourage this airflow, it is most important that there is plenty of this gap or slot along the whole length of the back edge of the jib. This is to encourage the flow around the back of the mainsail, to increase its power.

Set the twist in the mainsail first. The amount of twist needs to vary with the wind strength with more twist in light winds and in very strong winds, but a good guide for light to moderate winds is approximately 1-in-40 (40mm in a 1600mm leech length). This should be assessed against the straight line of the backstay as shown in 3. No twist, as in 2, makes a boat a bit slow with a tendency to point higher and to feel ‘niggley’. Too much twist 1 also slows a boat down by the drag from a flapping leech, but is less serious than too little twist ( Photo 5 ). Then set the jib leech tension to match the shape of the mainsail leech. Assuming that the forestay is tensioned and that the

pivot point of the jib boom is approximately 20% of the length of the boom back from the tack, the jib leech line needs to be adjusted to achieve a jib leech shape that is more or less parallel to the mainsail leech shape, except a bit more open halfway up the jib, as shown in 3. In 1 there is no twist in the jib leech and the slot is closed down preventing a clean airflow getting to the mainsail. If in doubt err on having the slot more open, either by increasing the boom angle or increasing the leech line tension. Getting a good trim is getting a good balance between the various tensions so that the sails work well together and this can be done by testing how the sails perform in the wind ( Photo 6 ).

Trim testing

Test your windward trim by holding your boat into the wind, as if it were sailing as close as possible to windward with the sails fully drawing. Rotate the boat closer to the wind and observe which sail luffs first. With an ideal trim both should flap together as shown in the shaded area. If the front of the sail luffs first, then reduce the fullness in the sails, until both sails luff together. If just the main luffs first, open the slot with the jib boom angle or leech line adjustment or flatten the mainsail. Adjust and test several times until the ideal is approached. Always check your trim before launching and adjust to suit the wind conditions, which are always changing.

Wind indicators

These are two items of equipment which will help you to see the wind and how to trim your sails to its constantly changing direction and strength; a flag and tell tales. Without these you are to some extent blind as to what the wind is doing out there in the distance ( Photo 7 ). Photo 8

Click Here to download the lightweight wind indicator document

Setting up the rig

All the illustrations show what a good trim looks like and this next section describes how to achieve those shapes in more detail. Balanced swing rigs, where the yard rotates about the mast, and rather than the mast rotating, are the easiest to set up, because the forces in the jib ‘magically’ balance the forces in the mainsail. Once the camber in the sails and the jib sheet sets the slot at the booms, there is really only one adjustment to be made and this is adjusted by the bowsie at the head of the jib on the forestay. This automatically controls the amount of twist in both sails, so whatever the tension in this ‘kicking strap’ the shape of the slot retains the correct relationship.

This is the case for the BOTTLE boat as shown in the heading photograph and most rigs in the Footy class (Photo 9). Despite the sails of these boats being cut without any fullness, being double sided with the light polythene just folded round the mast, the fullness can be adjusted on the head stick in the same way as you would adjust the camber at the bottom of the sail at the boom as shown here ( Photo 10 ). Incidentally, the rules for the next America’s Cup demand this form of double sided mainsail.

On a Marblehead with this balanced rig, as well as adjusting the forestay this tension is balanced by the jib leech line to give the precise slot. The balance between the two sails also allows for the leech tensions to be very simply adjusted by the TX trim on the sheet whilst you are sailing ( Photo 11 ).

Most commonly used swing rigs used on Marbleheads and other classes have the ‘forward and aft booms’ rigidly fixed to the mast which rotates and whilst each sail has to be setup separately without any magical balance, at least the settings can remain the same each time you take the rig out of the sail bag.

Much more complex is the setting up of a conventional rig, as there are so many adjustments to be made in setting the rig up before you even start to adjust the trim. Illustrated is an IOM rig set up in accordance with the designer’s rigging guide with all the points of adjustment marked with a green star ( Photo 12 ).

Once the mast is in place, the shrouds need to be set up and it is very important that they are set up with even tension either side. This can be checked with finger and thumb on the shrouds either side of the mast and the shroud closest to the mast tightened so that these distances are the same ( Photo 13 ).

Once this is adjusted it is important to repeat the tensions and this can be done by the bottom of the bottlescrew connecting to the deck fitting with an L-shaped hook as shown on the deck of this fabulous wooden scale ENDEAVOUR J class. The bottlescrew can then be locked to repeat the tensions ( Photo 14 ).

In the fore and aft direction the mast needs to be set up using the forestay and the backstay. The aim is to produce a very gentle S bend in the mast aiming backwards a touch at the bottom, bending forward to the forestay and then being bent back by the backstay. The forestay needs to be tight, but to create this backstay tension is needed.

How much backstay tension will depend on the bend in the mast matching the shape of the luff of the mainsail. Too much tension will cause creases and the loss of mainsail leech tension. Too little tension and the mainsail may look too full with a hard leech as shown in the leech comparison 2. This is assuming that there is no ram.

If you do have a ram this can be used to create the desired mast shape. The ram can be set up so that when the mainsail is out on the run the kicker either tightens or slackens slightly. More ram will allow the kicker to slacken as the main boom goes out and less ram will allow the kicker and therefore the mainsail leech tension to tighten.

The kicking strap is a key adjustment and the amount of tension will depend on the wind conditions. In light of fluky airs, which we often encounter on our small enclosed lakes, less tension is always better than too much. The kicking strap will tighten the leech and by doing so will reduce the relative tension in the luff, so this needs to be adjusted to suit.

Finally, one more thing to check is that the jib is balanced and that the counterweight to the jib boom should be sufficient to keep it balanced so that it has no bias, which will help you to gybe the jib easily ( Photo 15 ).

Once afloat

Now is the time to go afloat and test your sail trim, because a perfect trim set up on the shore is only part of achieving a good performance. This effort will be wasted if the sail trim is not adjusted to relate to the constantly changing winds experienced on our enclosed lakes. Always come back and fiddle if

you are not happy. Many expert skippers bring their boats back and adjust their tensions a short time after launching to make sure it is adjusted perfectly for the conditions, which of course are always changing!

Sailing to windward is not just about pulling the sheets in hard and steering. In all wind strengths, easing the sheets helps restore speed immediately after a tack, for example. In very light winds your flag and tell tales may indicate that the wind has more off the side and requires the sheets to be eased to gain speed. Steering the whole boat closer to the wind may be too slow to take advantage of such a shift. Speed is everything in these conditions, so avoid using the braking effect of the rudder.

When reaching it is very important to let your sails out as much as possible to prevent the sails stalling and losing drive. If the flag at the masthead is making a big angle to the top of the sail, let your sails out. Lower down if the leeward tell-tale is not streaming, the airflow over the jib is stalled and the sails are pulled in too hard. This is the most common fault made by sailors of all sizes boats, not just models. It is so easy for radio sailors to pull that stick down hard in the excitement of racing in an attempt to go faster, but it stalls the sails and the boat goes slower.

So if in doubt, let them out!

When running downwind the tell-tales may not help, but keep an eye on the flag to make sure that you are on the most favourable gybe. Try and keep your wind clear of those behind, who are likely to take your wind and slow you down.

Watch and talk to the experts

The importance of good sail trim cannot be emphasised enough. It is all-important in vane racing, which is all about sail setting and getting the balance between the sails and the vane steering gear. This has made vane sailors masters of this art and you will rarely see vane sailor’s radio racing with a poor sail trim. Watch how top sailors set their sails and don’t be afraid to copy them. Many will be only too pleased to pass on their knowledge, so don’t be afraid to ask questions.

Download this article here

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Setting up and tuning the J class

Setting up and tuning your J Class model with Bermuda rig.

Introduction

The Nottingham 48 and the 60 are well designed models which in a good state of trim should be elegant, rapid and predictable on the water and a very satisfying model to sail. The underwater profile will resist the weed that is becoming a feature of summer sailing and which can be so frustrating for skippers of yachts will finned keels and separate rudders and the relatively shallow draft adds to the models versatility.

The model is fairly forgiving of poor sail trim but setting up the model correctly will add greatly to the pleasure of sailing it. Setting up a yacht and trimming it for the prevailing wind conditions is the subject of lengthy and protracted writing and my intention here is not to replicate these missives but to create a simple guide to how to get the most out of your model. For some this guide may be too simple but I make no apologies and hope that most readers will find the guide of use.

Basic principles.

The sails operate as two wings and are subject to the same rules of aerodynamics as an aircraft but unlike an aircraft the aerofoil shape of a sail can be altered to suit the wind conditions. These alterations are referred to as “tuning” the rig. There are two objectives in tuning the rig, to obtain maximum speed and also maximum control and the two objectives achieved together will get you round a course in the shortest time.

The 48 inch model is available with three rigs, A, B and C. The A rig has the biggest sail area and is cut to suit light winds. The B rig has a slightly smaller sail area and is cut to suit stronger winds whilst the C rig is often referred to as a “storm” rig. The operating parameters of each rig will overlap so that an A rig can be detuned as wind speed increases and the B rig can be tuned for more power as wind speed decreases. The most versatile rig for day to day use is the B rig as it can be tuned for most conditions. I don’t have a C rig as if the wind speed dictates the use of this rig it’ s probably time to go to the pub but serious racing skippers will have a C rig.

The sail is not just a flat sheet but consists of a number of panels. Each panel is cut and joined so that it will naturally try to adopt an aerofoil shape. Further, the luff of the sail is cut with a curve or arc so that when it lies against a straight mast the sail will adopt even more shape.

Initial setting up.

Place the mast in the mast tube and fix the shrouds and backstay. Attach the jib swivel so that the sails are relaxed with no tension in the shrouds and only slight tension in the backstay and jibstay. Back off the kicker on the mainsail boom and ensure the leech line is loose. Stand back and look at the rig. The leech of the jib should lie parallel to the mast and as close to the mast as possible and the mainsail boom should lie roughly parallel to the deck. At this stage ensure that the foot of the mainsail and jib is fitted a close to their respective booms as possible and that the jib boom is fitted as close to the deck as possible.

Increase the tension in the rig first by tensioning the jibstay and then with the backstay so that the top of the mast is firmly located against fore and aft movement. Nip up the shrouds so there is just sufficient tension to secure the mast against sideways movement. Nothing should be “tight” at this stage.

Adjust the foot of the jib and mainsail using the clew adjuster so that the foot is flat (but not tight) and adjust the luff of the jib and mainsail the same ensuring that there are no wrinkles in the sails. This should make a good starting point for tuning and you should ensure that there is sufficient room to adjust on all of the adjusters.

Adjust the kicker or vang so that the end of the mainsail boom is able to move up and down about 10mm. The kicker changes the twist in the leech of the mainsail.

Adjust the foot of the mainsail and jib so that the foot adopts a slight curve. Add a little tension to the leech line on the jib so that this too has a slight shape. The general rule of thumb is that the curve in the leech of the jib should match the twist in the leech of the mainsail

In general terms, you will want to achieve a “full” shape in both sails for light winds and as the wind speed increases you will add tension to the rig to “flatten” the sails.

Note that any adjustment you make to one part of the rig will require additional adjustments to the other elements of the rig.

Adjustments.

Backstay. This has the biggest effect on the rig overall. Tension in the backstay is transferred through the mast, creating a bend in the mast, tension is transferred down the jibstay to the tack of the jib, along the jib boom which pivots on the jib swivel and so puts tension into the leech of the jib.

As you add tension to the backstay you will see the shape of the mainsail flatten as the mast curves forward in the middle. As the top of the mast moves aft the end of the mainsail boom will drop so add tension using a mixture of tension in the jibstay and tension in the backstay. If the mainsail boom drops too far it risks dipping into the water as the yacht heels in the wind which will upset the shape of the mainsail.

Kicker. Increasing the movement in the back of the boom will increase the twist in the mainsail. This will allow wind to spill out of the top of the mainsail, depowering the top part of the sail and improving control in windy conditions.

Main sail luff tension. As you increase the tension in the backstay the tension in the luff will reduce. Use the adjuster to add tension. The luff shouldn’t be tight, but should be tight enough to keep a straight edge whilst still being able to swing around the mast on the luff rings.

Clew adjustment. (Both the mainsail and the jib) Moving the adjuster forward will put more shape in the foot of the sail and also the lower part of the sail. More shape will give you more power but also increase the drag created by the sail. Less shape will reduce power for better control in higher winds. Try to keep a similar shape in the foot of both mainsail and jib.

Jib luff tension. As with the Mainsail, the tension should be sufficient to maintain a good shape in the sail without wrinkles but not so tight that it creates more tension than the jibstay.

Leech line. As you put more tension into the rig you will flatten the leech of the jib and reduce its power. Use the leech line to take the tension out of the leech and add shape to match the shape of the mainsail.

Shrouds. The main purpose of the shrouds is to stabilise the mast. Putting too much tension into the shrouds will emphasise the curve in the mast and distort the shape of the mainsail. You should add just sufficient tension to stabilise the mast. Mounting the shrouds further back on the chainplate will reduce curve that will be put into the mast by the power of the wind, thus retaining the original shape you created when the model was at rest. A second set of shrouds fitted at the spreaders will add more support to the mast as it comes under pressure from the power of the sail as wind speed increases.

Jib slot adjustment. The jib boom should be opened up by adjusting the loose sheeting so that the end of the boom points toward the chainplate on the deck as a start. The jib slot serves to accelerate air through the slot and over the mainsail and this increased airflow over the mainsail improves the efficiency of the sail and the speed of the model. If your slot is too narrow the forward part of the mainsail will distort, and loose its aerofoil shape, (known as backing) but if too wide the slot will have little effect. Adjustment on the 48 is something of a compromise but the 60 has a separate servo to adjust the slot on the water. At slower speeds with reduced airflow the slot is narrowed to increase the velocity of the air travelling through it. As the hull speed increases the mainsail will start to “back” under the pressure of both velocity of the air and the increased volume so the slot can be opened improving the efficiency of the mainsail

Mainsail boom adjustment. The mainsail sheet should not be tight when sheeted in. I adjust the end of the boom so that when sheeted in its about 10 to 15mm off the centre line. As a guide, I start by looking at the back of the mainsail which should be pointing in a direction so that the airflow from the sail is directed aft, along a line parallel to the centre line of the hull

Weather helm and lee helm. This term refers to the tendency for the model to point up into the wind and stall, (weather helm) or point away from the wind (lee helm) especially when travelling into the wind. The model is designed to be “balanced” ie, that it should track a straight line without radical movements to the rudder which creates drag and reduces speed. If you experience weather helm this can be solved by increasing the power in the jib/reducing the power in the main and if you have lee helm vice versa. Lee and weather helm is a response in the hull to the sails not being tuned to act together.

Tuning the sails should sort both lee and weather helm but if not you can change the weight distribution in the hull. The centre of effort of the rig is designed to be forward of the centre of lateral resistance of the hull. As the yacht heels in the water the curvature of the hull acts as a rudder and tries to steer the hull in a direction opposite to the heel, into the wind. Placing the centre of effort forward overcomes the steering effect of the hull but it’s a fine calculation and will be slightly different for each model. The answer to weather helm is to move the centre of effort further forward by powering up the jib or depowering the main, (preferred) or, moving the entire rig forward, or alternatively moving the centre of lateral resistance aft. This is achieved by adding weight to the back of the keel which puts more stern in the water and takes some bow out of the water.

If you have lee helm which cannot be solved by tuning you can add weight to the forward part of the ballast which will put more bow in the water and take some stern out of the water, moving the centre of lateral resistance forward.

This is a radical solution and before you embark on changing the weight distribution I suggest you talk to me first as the tuning of the rig is likely to be the prime suspect of lee and weather helm issues.

You may find that as the model is accelerating (eg, having just rounded a buoy and sailing into the wind) and is heeling in the wind, that the hull tries to turn around the mast. This is often confused with weather helm but issues relating to weather helm and lee helm are better assessed when the hull is up to speed. This perceived weather helm is caused by the sails accelerating in an environment where there is little resistance and the hull, subject to the resistance of the water, has yet to catch up with momentum of the sails. This causes the hull to continue turning into the wind even if you have applied opposite rudder.

There are a number of solutions, all to do with how you sail the model, not necessarily tuning. The first is to straighten the rudder when half way round the buoy and let the hull do the rest (a straight rudder creates less resistance and the hull will accelerate more quickly). The second is to operate the sails with less vigour, bringing the sails to their final position for the run more slowly. Or a mixture of the two above. Maximum speed and maximum control are achieved by making slower, measured and progressive movements to the controls.

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America instructions

Thread starter Thread starter Nick Baker
Start date Start date Dec 27, 2021
Watchers Watchers 7

Dec 27, 2021

Hello to all! I'm a newbie, with only 1 completed model under my belt - my dad had started Model Shipways' Sultana from scratch when I was very young. I ended up with hull, masts, and sail plan only, and completed it using parts from a kit I found on Ebay. Finished after 60 years. Now I have Scientific's America , but I see that there are no plans.. Any idea how to find/download the plans? Thanks! Nick

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Dec 28, 2021

Welcome aboard. I'm sure someone on the site will be able to assist.

Kurt Konrath

Did you try doing a search on S0S for the ship, to see what build logs or other info may be out there waiting for review.

Welcome Nick to the best ship building site on the web. What part of the USA are you from, there are many of us scattered around and you might be close to someone who has more knowledge then you. You can edit your profile to list state, or city and state if you desire to let us know where you call home. As for instruction help, maybe one of the members may have built that or a ship of close design from that model company and can provide you with needed help.

Buona sera Nick,,puoi postare qualche notizia in più per poterti aiutarti

Dec 29, 2021

Welcome aboard

Free Ship Plan of racing yacht America added

Rigging Plan for Schooner yacht AMERICA (1851)

Dec 30, 2021

Sea Burd said: Are you talking the Yatch America? 2nd link is in Alpena Mi. Where are you located? Free Ship Plan of racing yacht America added Yacht America Winner of the 1851 “One Hundred Sovereign Cup” A race later renamed “America’s Cup” in her honor Lines of the yacht America, from the François-Edmond Pâr… www.themodelshipwright.com Rigging Plan for Schooner yacht AMERICA (1851) Drawn by G.F. Campbell for the Model Shipways company in 1967, this plan details the rigging configuration of the famed Schooner Yacht AMERICA built in 1851. Plan shows rigging as it was ... www.nemoha.org Click to expand...

Nick Baker said: Hello to all! I'm a newbie, with only 1 completed model under my belt - my dad had started Model Shipways' Sultana from scratch when I was very young. I ended up with hull, masts, and sail plan only, and completed it using parts from a kit I found on Ebay. Finished after 60 years. Now I have Scientific's America , but I see that there are no plans.. Any idea how to find/download the plans? Thanks! Nick Click to expand...

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RC Yacht rigging diagram

Author Topic: RC Yacht rigging diagram (Read 8109 times)

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Free Model Boat Plans

Free model boat plans - a compiled list to help you locate free model ship and boat plans for model building - static, scale, rc, power, gas, sailing, steam and submarines..

You can find free model boat plans on the internet. Here is what I've been able to locate so far of decent quality. I've tried really hard to filter out sites that seem suspicious in terms of copyright infringements – I’m trying to hold the standard high.

Free 18th Century Ship Plans from Chapmannet

The Architectura Navalis Mercatoria by Fredrik H. af Chapman is available online for free from the ChapmanNet . The ship plans are superb and is a great reference.

This is probably the best collection of 18th century ship plans anywhere. There is no rigging shown in this book, so you need to find that elsewhere. It should not pose much of a problem, as there are many specialized book on the subject.

The book consists of 62 plates (with a total of 145 ship plans) of 18th century ships, complete with sections and general arrangement views typical of the times.

Considering the value of the plans in this book, its content is great value even if you have to pay for it. Personally, I like to be able to flip through the pages, so I bought one of the many relatively recent editions.

There are a myriad of facsimile editions readily available. Many can be purchased through my Architectura Navalis Mercatoria page.

Free Ship Plans from Orlogsbasen.dk

Orlogsbasen is a searchable, online ship plan database provided by the Danish National Archives and the Royal Danish Naval Museum. The subjects are original plans in the archives from the age of sail of Danish, Swedish, English and French ships - mostly from the 17th through 19th century. The database also contains photographs of period ship models that the involved institutions possess. The database is under construction.

Free Model Boat Plans from Czech Mo-Na-Ko.net

The Czech MoNaKo is also a hobby and model builder’s magazine. They offer three pages of plans – only two of which are currently accessible. The quality of the plans offered varies, so study them carefully and do your own due diligence.

The subjects range from battleships, destroyers, cruisers, submarines, sail boats, motorboats, tugs etc. Some show construction details, while others seem to be missing pages, some are clearly intended for RC, and it’s all in Czech. Enjoy!

http://www.mo-na-ko.net/lode-planky.htm
http://www.mo-na-ko.net/lode-planky2.htm

Free Model PT Boat Plans from Pt-boat.com

If you want to build a planing hull scale model, consider a PT boat. The acronym stands for Patrol Torpedo and it was the US answer to what is otherwise known as a motor torpedo boat.

For plans and everything you need to know to build a model of one of these, go to PT-boat.com

Free German Warship Plans from DreadnoughtProject.com

The Dreadnought Project offers 300dpi scans of original plans from German warships from the Imperial era to WW2. Most are oddball ships that most have never heard of. The plans can be a single sheet to several deck layout, profiles and cross sections. To my knowledge, there are no lines plans. Nevertheless, an extremely valuable resource if this is your field of interest.

French Warship Plans from the French Department of Defense

I was never under the impression that the French Government was all that helpful to its citizens until I stumbled upon this website.

I've found two directories of plans useful to model ship builders:

Wooden warships, mostly French but also some foreign nations.
Iron and steel warships, late 19th century, both world wars, cold war etc.

The plan sets are not always complete, but most provide more than you'd expect for model boat building. They offer plans for all kinds of ships, such as Ships-of-the-line, Frigates, Battleships, Cruisers, Destroyers, Submarines, Carriers and Torpedo boats. Some surprises include tugs, minesweepers, landing crafts, steam frigates etc. The site as well as plans are in French, so be warned.

Note: This service has been disrupted. I have no further information at this time. If anyone knows what is going on, please pass me a note here and I'll post it on this page. Thank you.

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Masting, rigging and sails

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Pond Yacht rigging

By JerseyCity Frankie May 3, 2015 in Masting, rigging and sails

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Blue Jacket Ship Crafters, in their book department sells two books on pond models. Both books are by M. de Lesseps. They are Pond Models and Pond Yachts How To Build And Sail Them. These books may have the information you're looking for.

Yowch $57 on Amazon! But I see only $21 at Blue Jacket. Thanks for the tip!

I wrote to the Central Park Yacht Club and they put me in touch with a gentleman with experience with the subject. I was touched by his generosity when he wrote back and sent along annotations on the photo I had sent him.

He explains that:

......... sheet-to-tiller rig: there were *two* mainsheets, one used on going to windward and the other on the run. Both typically had hooks on the end so they could be switched.

Sailing upwind, the boat sailed on balance only, tiller centered by the elastic as shown in the picture. The beating sheet ran from the end of the boom and was hooked on the ring on the main horse. Running sheet hung loose. On the run, the running sheet would be hooked to the tiller as shown, and run out so the main boom was swung out to one side or the other. The beating sheet would hang loose. The principle is that if the boom were swung to starboard, the boat would tend to turn to port. The pressure of the wind would pull on the main sheet against the elastic and give opposite helm to the rudder , thus guiding the boat. The jib would have a single sheet, adjusted with a tensioning device, let out for the run and pulled in for the beat.

Omega1234 , IgorSky , Landlocked123 and 2 others
2 weeks later...

Found this on Google books and it is relevant: https://books.google.com/books?id=_jYCAAAAQAAJ&pg=PA103&dq=Pond+Models+%C2%A0and+Pond+Yachts&hl=en&sa=X&ei=8NtZVbWuHq7IsQTHgYHADg&ved=0CC4Q6AEwAg#v=onepage&q=Pond%20Models%20%C2%A0and%20Pond%20Yachts&f=false

1 month later...

Try this web site from the UK: www.vmyg.uk. Its called the Vintage Model YachtGroup, its web site has a link to a

instruction book for various self steering mechanisms and how they work.

Looked interesting.

Bridgman Bob

Thanks for the link to the website! I thought I had seen them all by now but this was a new one to me. Here are some shots of the model I am restoring, one of two. THis example was likely not actually sailed. It has a lead keel but there is no rudder head, the rudder moves but does not pierce the deck.

The second model, not pictured, has rudimentary self steering gear and I will put up some photos of that later as I finish work on her.

I finished the restoration work I was doing on these two Pond Yacht Models. I have a new appreciation for this type of model and plan on building one of my own now. Here are some before and after photos. ANd then just some details shots.

markjay , mtaylor and Omega1234
7 months later...

However, did you notice that shipping at Blue Jacket starts at $50.00?

Huh? http://www.bluejacketinc.com/ordering.htm

Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Tri ton Cross-Section

NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64

Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever:

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)

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Sail Yacht “America”

by Captain · Published March 18, 2013 · Updated March 18, 2013

Sail Yacht America Scale Model Plans

America in 1910

The yacht America was launched in 1851 . She was designed by George Steers and Co. The story begins when some members of the NewYork Yacht Club wants to build a yacht to sail England. The purpose of this was to show American yacht building skills and to make money through yacht regattas. She attended a special yacht race in England. She started well behing because of a fouled anchor. Then she gained better places in 7 schooners and 8 cutters. While all the others were taking a turn around a light ship, America manuevered between the ship and the land. There were objections about this manuever which took America to the lead but it was not stated in the race rules, so the manuever counted legal. She maintained the lead during the rest of the race and she finished 18 minutes before the second yacht Aurora. There she won Royal Yacht Squadron’s 53-mile (85 km) regatta around the Isle of Wight . As she finished, Queen Victoria asked who was the second and she got the answer as “There is no second, your majesty” . Unfortunately she couldn’t be preserved and in 1945 she was scrapped. There are some replicas of the boat still sailing…

The plans are quite good and detailed. Actually there’s not much deck equipment, so you actually don’t even need so much detail. There are some pictures as reference. Now it is your time onboard America to race…

Click Here to Download Sail Yacht America Blueprints

Practicos Pilot Boat

February 17, 2013

by Captain · Published February 17, 2013 · Last modified March 1, 2013

Svyatoy Muchenik Foka

January 2, 2014

by Captain · Published January 2, 2014

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how can I get a detailed rigging plan of schooner America. I was given the model but all the rigging needs to be done. I would like to try and do this.

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How to tension your yacht’s rig with wire or rod rigging

August 28, 2024

Ivar Dedekam author of Illustrated Sail & Rig Tuning gives his guide on tensioning a yacht's wire or rod rigging

If you want to trim your rig correctly you should have some idea of the tension in the shrouds and stays, either by rules of thumb or a more exact method, such as this. Here, you measure the stretch of the wire as a percentage and then establish the tension as a percentage of the wire or rod’s breaking load.

You can either measure the stretch of all the wire or a part of it, e.g. 2m. Accuracy will improve with the sample length. Begin with a minimum tension in the wire.

Mark off a 2m length of the shroud on one side of the boat using the shroud terminal for reference. Measure the elastic extension (f) of the measured length as the rigging screws are alternately tightened, little by little. Stop when f = 3mm. (4mm on fractional rigs with aft swept spreaders).

Note that stretch of f = 1mm over a sample of 2m of the wire corresponds to 5% of breaking load independent of the wire diameter. For rod, an f = 1mm stretch over 2m corresponds to 7.5% of breaking load. Use a similar method to establish backstay tension. Remember that a different sample length will have a different stretch for the same load. Also remember that the stretch is always measured from hand tight wire/rod (minimum tension).

Mark up the shroud Mark up 2m of shroud using the terminal for reference…

Rod rigging is made of a straight, single strand. Wire rigging is made of many twisted strands. Normally rod rigging is 20% stronger than wire of the same diameter.

Wire has the advantage of an early warning of fatigue when a strand breaks. Fatigue in rod happens without any warning at all. It can be sudden and sometimes catastrophic.

Tensioning cap shrouds

When you have straightened the mast sideways and adjusted the rake, it is time to look at the cap shrouds. Tighten the cap shrouds to approximately 15% of breaking load. This corresponds to a stretch (f) of 3mm over a length of 200cm. On a fractional rig with aft swept spreaders the cap shrouds should be tensioned to 20% of the breaking load. This corresponds to a stretch of f = 4mm.

Measure the stretch…then measure the elastic extension when the rigging has been tightened.

To avoid excessive forestay sag upwind, the cap shrouds should be relatively highly tensioned. If 20% cap shroud tension is not sufficient to keep sag at an acceptable level, increase the tension to 25% of breaking load. Do not exceed this tension.

Slack rigging will produce shock loads that can cause rig failure and may even bring the mast down. Note that you will not be able to overtighten a wire of 40-50cm length with hand tools. The lower shrouds and intermediate shrouds should be quite loose at this stage.

If the mast has distinct bends you should try to straighten them by sight and hand tensioning.

Many yachtsmen intuitively tension their standing rigging and adjust it later when sailing has begun. This may lead to acceptable results but the methods described above, while taking some time, are more certain and reliable.

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NEWS... BUT NOT AS YOU KNOW IT

Resurfaced video shows Bayesian yacht three years before sinking off Sicily

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The specifications of the superyacht which sank off the coast of Sicily have been unearthed as the search for survivors continues.

British tech tycoon Mike Lynch ’s Bayesian yacht was hit by a tornado over the ocean – known as a waterspout – off the coast of Porticello fishing village on Monday morning, causing it to sink after the mast snapped.

Follow Metro’s live blog for latest updates on the Sicily yacht sinking

One person, the yacht’s chef, has been found dead while six others – including Lynch, 59, his 18-year-old daughter Hannah and Morgan Stanley International chair Jonathan Bloomer – remain missing .

Christopher Morvillo, a lawyer for Clifford Chance, also remains unaccounted for.

The British-flagged Bayesian had 22 people on board, including 10 crew members. Now footage taken of the yacht in 2021 has reemerged.

Superyacht Times previously wrote a profile piece about the vessel, which was built by Italian firm Perini Navi and launched in 2008.

Details of the Bayesian

The yacht is 55.9m long and is 11.51m at its beam (widest point), a draught (depth of the vessel below the waterline) of 9.73m and an internal volume of 473 GT (gross tonnage).

Bayesian has an aluminium hull and superstructure, and is powered by two engines which give a top speed of 15.6 knots, with a cruising speed of 13 knots.

Its 57,000-litre fuel tanks mean it has a range of up to 3,600 nautical miles, and has water tanks storing up to 14,000 litres of fresh water, YachtCharterSalute reports .

The 'Bayesian' sailing boat, in Palermo, Sicily, Italy.

Its interior architecture was designed by Rémi Tessier and most recently refitted in 2020. The cabins feature stunning modern bathrooms, and sleek wooden furniture with metal and accents.

The yacht previously sailed under the name ‘Salute’, and in total it has a capacity for 12 passengers and 10 crew.

There are six cabins below deck including one master cabin, three double and two twins.

The Bayesian has the largest aluminium mast and the second-tallest mast overall in the world, measuring in at 75m tall.

Its forward seating area can be converted into a fully enclosed glass veranda.

Get in touch with our news team by emailing us at [email protected] .

For more stories like this, check our news page .

MORE : Last moments of Bayesian yacht as it’s battered by storm before sinking

MORE : Lawyer’s haunting seven-word post before vanishing on Bayesian yacht

MORE : Woman sick of potholes risks her health to fix them

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PDF Model Rigging Techniques.ppt
One more time up and over the bowsprit, bring the line half way down and make a half-hitch round the round the port half of the gammoning, take the end around the stbd half from forward aft and go on round outside everything pu lling the two sides closely together, wrap several more turns and tighten the entire job.
Rigging Tips for Building a Model Ship
Work from the centre of the ship out and try to avoid locking yourself into difficult positions. A Rigging Tool presented in the Tools section of our Catalogue will be helpful when rigging. The various names for the Running Rigging are presented below. Fore brace. Fore lower topsail brace.
Basics of rigging model ships: tutorials and techniques
Model ship rigging tutorials for beginners model ship makers
RCSails
Rig Building Tips: IOM class rules don't allow rotating masts and the masts mostly used are without an internal track. The best mast is 12mm or ½" aluminum tube available at local hardware and metal stores. If you want to invest more you can order from RC yachting accessory dealers as well and save maybe 50g with the rig.
PDF Rigging Model Ships Tutorial
A Model Boat Builder's Guide to Rigging - A Collection of Historical Articles on the Construction of Model Ship Rigging ... diagrams, this book is ideal for the novice model builder, and will be of considerable utility to those with a practical interest in building model boats. The chapters of this book include: "Methods of Construction ...
Help with understanding the rigging diagram
When the sheet is hauled, the clew-line must be 'paid-out', or slackened so that it runs free. By far the best reference book I know of for ships of this era, which covers the rigging of such ships in great detail, is the 'Masting and Rigging of Clipper Ships and Ocean Carriers', by Harold A Underhill; first published in 1946.
Guide To Masts, Yards & Booms On Model Ships
The front and side elevations of the mast sections are identified in Figure 1. It is most important to assemble the masts and fit all eye pins and blocks before fixing the mast to the model. The location of all eye pins and blocks on the masts will be presented on the plans in the kit. Each of the parts is presented in more detail below.
Rigging
All the basics for rigging ship models, from the creation of ropes to the basic ratlines knots
Bowsprit Rigging
Two notes on the jumbo jib traveller block. First - the bottom must be shaped so it sits nicely on the bowsprit. Since the bowsprit is round, the bottom of the block needs to be curved to match it. Second - the block has a wire on top where the jumbo jib boom hooks on. This wire should not be glued in now.
Model Build
The main recommendation seemed to be to start at the front and work aft. And of course, the standing rigging has to be installed before anything else. With that in mind, therefore, here is Jenson's diagram of the standing rigging on the Bluenose. It is to be noted that standing rigging generally refers to lines, wires, or rods which are more or ...
how to / tips
Seamus107. Sometimes I cover about 1/4" of the end of a line with super glue and, when the glue dries, cut the tip at an angle to yield a sharp point. Usually I can then get the stiff, pointed tip through an appropriately sized hole. If the tip bends or frays, I re-cut a new point a little ways back and try again.
Dummy's Guide to Rigging
Deeper knowledge can only come from re-reading, drawing rigging diagrams, and from rigging models. ... POF model of Royal Caroline 1749, part-planked with interior details. My own plans, based on Admiralty draughts and archival research. ... Yacht America by flyer - Mamoli - scale 1:66 - with some alterations. Dolphyn Corel 1/50.
Rigging Begins
The Model Shipways Bluenose kit provides rigging line in a few different sizes: 0.008″ (very thin, like thread), 0.021″ (medium weight), and 0.028″ (thicker). These don't match what's indicated on the plans. The plans show a variety of thicknesses, like .006″, .012″, and more.
How to Rig a Model Ship
The fact that people take the time to meticulously model all of the rope and rigging on a ship model has always been so impressive to me. Last year, I backed the historical pirate tabletop wargame, Blood & Plunder. The game uses the most incredible resin-cast ship models. They are supposed to simply be game components, mere playing pieces for a ...
Sail Trimming
Hopefully, the tips in this article may help to achieve that pleasure and they apply to all boats that are powered by a jib and a mainsail, irrespective of their size or class. It does not matter whether they are conventionally rigged, rigging less or swing rigged, as the wind cannot distinguish such things as it flows round the sails (Photo 2).
J Class Hulls
Initial setting up. Place the mast in the mast tube and fix the shrouds and backstay. Attach the jib swivel so that the sails are relaxed with no tension in the shrouds and only slight tension in the backstay and jibstay. Back off the kicker on the mainsail boom and ensure the leech line is loose. Stand back and look at the rig.
America instructions
Rigging Plan for Schooner yacht AMERICA (1851) Drawn by G.F. Campbell for the Model Shipways company in 1967, this plan details the rigging configuration of the famed Schooner Yacht AMERICA built in 1851. Plan shows rigging as it was ... www.nemoha.org. N.
RC Yacht rigging diagram
RC Yacht rigging diagram. Hi, I'm new to the forum, could anyone kindly assist with an RC Yacht diagram for the rigging of the sails please. I'm used to 1:128th warship modelling but I'm about to embark on a J Class yacht plank on frame to a scale of 1:28. I have the plans etc but Ive bought a couple of books to try and ascertain how I would ...
Free Model Boat Plans
Free Model Boat Plans from Czech Mo-Na-Ko.net. The Czech MoNaKo is also a hobby and model builder's magazine. They offer three pages of plans - only two of which are currently accessible. The quality of the plans offered varies, so study them carefully and do your own due diligence. The subjects range from battleships, destroyers, cruisers ...
Wooden Model Ship Fittings & Parts
The largest range of wooden model ship & model boat fittings, accessories & parts available. Modelers Central is the no.1 destination for scratch model ship builders.. There are over 90 model ship fittings categories from anchors to wire, the scratch model boat builder will find what they need here. All items are listed as single items unless ...
Pond Yacht rigging
18. #2. Posted May 5, 2015. Blue Jacket Ship Crafters, in their book department sells two books on pond models. Both books are by M. de Lesseps. They are Pond Models and Pond Yachts How To Build And Sail Them. These books may have the information you're looking for. JerseyCity Frankie. 1.
The definitive guide to sailing yacht rigging
Credit: Bill Tripp Design. The Bermudan rig is the all-rounder, able to perform well at all angles of sail. It is efficient upwind, while downwind the sail area can be significantly boosted with a big gennaker or spinnaker. For good reasons, it is the first choice for nearly every modern sailing yacht up to around 60 to 65 metres for cruising ...
Sail Yacht "America"
Sail Yacht America Scale Model Plans. America in 1910. The yacht America was launched in 1851 . She was designed by George Steers and Co. The story begins when some members of the NewYork Yacht Club wants to build a yacht to sail England. The purpose of this was to show American yacht building skills and to make money through yacht regattas.
How to tension your yacht's rig with wire or rod rigging
Rod rigging is made of a straight, single strand. Wire rigging is made of many twisted strands. Normally rod rigging is 20% stronger than wire of the same diameter. Wire has the advantage of an early warning of fatigue when a strand breaks. Fatigue in rod happens without any warning at all. It can be sudden and sometimes catastrophic.
Resurfaced video shows Bayesian yacht before sinking off Sicily
The yacht is 55.9m long and is 11.51m at its beam (widest point), a draught (depth of the vessel below the waterline) of 9.73m and an internal volume of 473 GT (gross tonnage).