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How to determine if a boat has water damage?

Boating enthusiasts know firsthand that buying a boat can be an exciting and rewarding experience. However, purchasing a vessel that has water damage can quickly turn that excitement into frustration and disappointment. Water damage can have long-lasting effects on a boat’s integrity and functionality, making it essential to spot signs of damage before making a purchase. Here are some tips to help determine if a boat has water damage.

1. Inspect The Hull

The hull is the most crucial part of the boat as it holds everything together. Begin by inspecting the hull, looking for cracks, discoloration, and blistering. These are tell-tale signs that water has penetrated the hull and caused damage. Use a flashlight to closely examine the hull, ensuring you don’t miss any critical details.

2. Check The Carpet And Upholstery

The carpet and upholstery are the most obvious areas of a boat that will show signs of water damage. Look for any discoloration, mildew, or mold along the edges of these surfaces, which could indicate that water has seeped in and caused damage. Also, pay close attention to any soft spots on the floor, which could indicate that water has caused the underlying material to rot.

3. Inspect Electrical Systems

Water damage can also affect your boat’s electrical systems, such as the stereo, gauges, and lighting. Check all electrical components to ensure they are functioning correctly. Suppose electrical systems have been compromised due to water damage. In that case, you may notice corrosion, rust, or water stains, indicating that water has caused damage to the wiring.

4. Analyze Trim Tabs And Outdrives

Trim tabs and outdrives are exposed to the elements and water, making them more susceptible to water damage. Check for any cracks or distortions on the trim tabs or outdrive, which could indicate that water has caused corrosion or rust. These parts are vital to the boat’s performance, and any damage may affect the boat’s handling and maneuverability.

5. Take A Sea Trial

The most effective way to determine if a boat has water damage is to take it out on the water and test its functions. If a boat takes longer than usual to get up and plane, or it struggles to maintain speed, it could indicate water damage. Also, pay close attention to any strange noises or vibrations, which may suggest that mechanical parts have sustained water damage.

Water damage is a significant threat to a boat’s integrity and functionality, and as such, it is essential to inspect for signs of damage before making a purchase. If you are unsure about the extent of the damage, consider hiring a professional surveyor to perform an in-depth inspection. With diligence and attention to detail, you can purchase a boat that is free from water damage and enjoy many years of safe and enjoyable boating.

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Yacht Water Damage: Can It Happen To You?

Whether you enjoy cruising the ocean blue, relaxing on sunny weekends, or taking a boating trip every summer, your yacht is important to you, so you need to know how to take care of it and what to look out for that indicates yacht water damage in need of professional attention.

A few signs of potential yacht water damage include:

minor blistering or bubbling of surfaces in the structure of the yacht
excessive mildew odor inside or on deck
salty buildup on surfaces inside

Your yacht is important to you- always be on the lookout for water damage.

If you suspect your yacht has been water damaged, don’t turn anything on and don’t try to fix or clean anything yourself as this can cause more harm than good. Call a professional like those at SERVPRO Ft. Lauderdale North and SERVPRO Plantation (or for your local SERVPRO team call 1-800-SERVPRO). Once you identify and possibly fix the cause of the water intrusion- which can include:

-a SERVPRO team can get started on cleaning any upholstery, decks, walls, and anything else infiltrated by water.

Ocean water and even brackish water, like that in the intercoastal, are particularly difficult to remediate due to the salt content and should be left to your SERVPRO team. The sooner you get a team to your yacht, the less salt damage will occur. Salt will corrode important seals, joints, and mechanical components if left unfixed for too long.

Call SERVPRO Ft. Lauderdale North or SERVPRO Plantation for all your yacht cleaning needs. Faster to any yacht water damage disaster SERVPRO Ft. Lauderdale North and SERVPRO Plantation will make it like it never even happened.

For more information on the SERVPRO Ft. Lauderdale North and SERVPRO Plantation owner Tyrone Po, click here .

Ways to Prevent Boat Water Damage

Boat water damage can occur through various mechanisms, including the devastating force of hurricanes and more common scenarios. During hurricanes, intense winds and torrential rains can breach seals, hatches, or covers, allowing water to infiltrate the interior. Other factors to consider are powerful waves and storm surges can submerge vessels, causing extensive damage. In everyday situations, rainwater, leaks from fittings, or improperly sealed openings can seep into a boat, gradually accumulating and compromising its structural integrity.

Just because this is possible doesn’t mean you have to accept that it simply will happen. The team at Yacht Management South Florida, Inc. understands the importance of keeping your boat water damage to a minimum more than most yacht management companies. To explain how they accomplish this, they provide their insights in this article. Here you will learn about what water damage can do to your vessel and how our team can help keep your yacht in working order.

What Could Happen in a Water-Damaged Yacht?

It is important to illuminate the potential ramifications of water damage on a yacht, shedding light on the intricate consequences that water damage yacht owners experience if they are not on top of all necessary maintenance. The effects of water damage to a boat ripple through various dimensions, driving home the imperative of preventive measures and diligent maintenance within the maritime domain.

Structural vulnerability : Boat water damage infiltrating a vessel can compromise its structural integrity, posing safety concerns that necessitate timely intervention.
Electrical panel intrusion : Water in the electrical panel emerges as a significant issue, disrupting critical electrical systems and raising potential hazards.
Aesthetic and functional deterioration : The aftermath of water damage extends to upholstery, interiors, and mechanical components, eroding aesthetics and functionality.
Navigational and safety impairment : Yachts encountering water damage may experience corrosion in navigational equipment and safety systems, imperiling both crew and passengers.
Economic strain : Addressing water damage on boats engenders financial strain, encompassing repair costs and potential loss of revenue due to downtime.
Diminished resale value : Yachts grappling with water damage often face diminished resale value, reflecting the compromise in both appearance and condition.
Operational disruption : The extensive repairs demanded by water damage disrupt planned voyages, causing operational inconvenience.
Environmental concerns : Water damage can introduce hazardous substances into the environment, impacting marine ecosystems and sustainability initiatives.

Comprehending the intricacies of water damage underscores the need for proactive mitigation strategies, adherence to safety protocols, and regular assessments. Our expert South Florida yacht management providers advocate for an enlightened approach. We emphasize the preservation of your yacht's longevity, value, and the well-being of all who navigate its waters. There are many ways that we do this. One way our team can help with boat water damage is by providing services that prevent yacht damage .

Services for Yachting Protection in South Florida

Water damage is a formidable adversary capable of jeopardizing the integrity and safety of yachts. At Yacht Management South Florida, Inc., we're steadfast in our commitment to providing comprehensive yacht protection through an array of preventive services. These services, spanning from hurricane preparation and readiness to bottom cleaning and zinc replacement to encompassing meticulous fiberglass and paint work, collectively fortify your vessel against the perils of boat water damage.

Hurricane preparation and readiness : Our rigorous hurricane preparation measures extend the shield of boat protection from the forces of nature, which can be one of the most disastrous things that can happen to a boat. By meticulously securing your yacht, fortifying docking systems, and adhering to comprehensive checklists, we minimize the vulnerability of your vessel, safeguarding it against potential water damage even in the face of hurricane-damaged yacht scenarios.
Bottom cleaning and zinc replacement : Shielding your vessel from water damage is paramount, and applying bottom paint stands as a pivotal step. In South Florida's saltwater milieu, protection is imperative. With decades of expertise, our seasoned bottom paint team safeguards over 350 boats annually, achieving a flawless satisfaction rate. Our meticulous approach and unmatched service encompass ablative, hard, and copper-free paints, along with prop speed coatings for underwater metals. Sandblasting, blister repair, and using environmentally friendly clear antifouling hull coating from Hull Maxx are also within our repertoire. Fortify your boat against water damage with our proven excellence and comprehensive offerings.
Fiberglass and paintwork : Our boatyard boasts a team of meticulously selected and skilled marine craftsmen, primed to be your frontline defense against water damage. Proficient in comprehensive fiberglass repair work and restorations, their expertise acts as a robust barrier, thwarting potential sources of water intrusion. Complementing this, our painting team employs premier boat paints and finishes, enhancing your yacht's resilience against water-related threats.

As you embark on your maritime pursuits, integrating these preventive measures into your yacht management strategy fortifies not only your vessel but also your peace of mind. Yacht Management South Florida, Inc. stands as your stalwart partner, arming you with the tools and insights to shield your investment from boat water damage and ensure a safe and gratifying yachting experience.

Get in Touch with Our Fort Lauderdale Yacht Management Team

Unveil the expanse of our comprehensive yacht management services, meticulously orchestrated by our Fort Lauderdale-based experts. Doing this can protect your yacht from boat water damage in a typical situation or during hurricane conditions. Whether you're seeking marine engine maintenance or holistic superyacht care, a swift call links you to our adept team.

Engage with our Fort Lauderdale yacht management specialists to access an expansive array of services promising triumph and unwavering assurance in your investment's enduring worth. Our esteemed South Florida yacht management unit curates an extensive reservoir of illuminating yacht management blog articles . Crafted for clients and curious boaters alike, these articles encompass diverse yachting themes, enriching your grasp of yacht care and ensuring you remain informed about industry strides. Immerse yourself in these thoughtfully sculpted gems to deepen your knowledge and stay current.

For inquiries or to embark on an exploration of our services, our marine maintenance experts eagerly stand by. Yacht Management South Florida, Inc. remains steadfast in guiding you through yachting's intricate tapestry with dedicated expertise. Reach out today to connect with our marine maintenance specialists and elevate your maritime journey.

For all inquiries, fill out the form below and a member of our team will respond as soon as possible

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How to Assess and Repair Fiberglass Damage

By John Champion, published in BWS May 2015

There are many types of materials used to build boats these days and have been for a long time—wood, steel, alloy and for a while, ferro cement. However, the vast majority of production boats are now made of fiberglass, either glass reinforced plastic or GRP. The “miracle material” of fiberglass was widely hailed as a maintenance free boat building opportunity in the 50s and 60s and has progressed—with some marked improvements and significant failures—ever since.

Today, production yachts are being seen more and more frequently in remote and popular cruising grounds that are a long way from their homeports. Yachts built by Beneteau, Jeanneau, Catalina, Bavaria and Hunter, to name a few of the larger builders, are crossing oceans and providing long term homes for an increasing number of people who opt for the sailing life. Not too long ago many of these fiberglass boats were routinely scorned and rejected as utterly unsuitable for cruising, never mind an ocean crossing or circumnavigation. But based on the number of old plastic tubs (term of endearment, as I’ve lived on one or another for 15 years) that I see arriving daily from all over the globe, this is not the case anymore.

Logically it would seem that older boats represent an attractive price point and allow more people to make the move aboard and go cruising. The long shelf life of GRP construction means that vast numbers of older production boats are available; coupled with the many thousands of annual new yacht launches and the competitive nature of the production boat industry keeping new prices down means real bargains in used boats abound. This encourages those considering an early retirement or extended sabbatical to go cruising now.

Even though we can get a GRP production boat that is largely equipped for our needs, we need to ask and answer a few questions: Are all production boats equal? And is all GRP construction equal? The short answer to both is no. So to understand our production boat better and to make a more informed decision, we can examine a few mainstream build methods and materials.

THE MATRIX No, Keanu Reeves does not build boats to my knowledge; this matrix refers to the construction of the hull. Usually glass fibers and resin, a core (more on that later) may be used but typically glass fiber in various weights and numerous weaves are impregnated with resin within a gel-coated mold to form the basic hull. It is the nature of the fibers—combined with factors such as thickness and reinforcing—that determine the structural characteristics of the hull.

Essentially the resin does nothing but protect the fibers from water, sun, chemicals and other potentially degrading sources. Resin is not our friend as it is heavy and brittle, with little inherent strength. The best lay-ups have a low resin to fiber ratio; 40/60 percent respectively is regarded as good but many sources believe 60/40 is more like the typical reality. This ratio will largely depend on the skill, dedication and care factor of the people who do the work. Design and management plays a big part of course, but all the engineers and managers in the world will not make a badly hung over and sleepless Fritz, Francois or Frank do the best job on this particular morning.

Unless infusion technology is used (fibers are laid up, sealed, a vacuum is applied and the optimum quantity of mixed resin is then sucked in and dispersed through the fibers), then we are dependent on our chosen company’s work force to achieve the designer’s objectives. Too much resin means more weight and lower strength, too little resin means dry fibers and the likelihood that these fibers will absorb water over the years and encourage blisters and/or delamination. So it is a fine line the production builder walks, although according to the brochures and websites each has it down pat.

Of the common fibers used in a layup, chopped strand mat is arguably the most popular. Easy to wet out and work with, it is cheap and is therefore frequently used to provide thickness to a layup and prevent visible “print through” from other fibers such as rovings—larger strands or bundles of fiber running in various directions. This thickness is required to produce stiffness in the hull. Chopped strand mat consists of short fibers randomly oriented and held together with a binder. This creates a layer that has equal strength in all directions but is less strong than larger fibers oriented inline with the anticipated load, which is where the engineers make a difference.

In essence, the fibers are the strength and the resin just holds them together. Too thin and flex is introduced, which is not particularly desirable in a hull. This is why core products have been developed.

CORE VALUES Core technology has been around for quite some time, which makes it highly unusual not to find a production boat without a cored deck. If you do, it will probably be quite apparent because you will feel the deck flex underfoot as you walk around. Plywood (hopefully marine ply) is frequently used to build a deck. The wood provides immediate thickness that is required to impart stiffness to a structure. This is a tried and true procedure that if properly done will provide a very long service life. Properly done is the key point.

Ideally where fittings will penetrate the deck—winch bolts, travelers, jib tracks, cleats and windlasses—the ply will be replaced at the factory with a solid glass layup or aluminum alloy insert. The alloy insert can then be tapped to allow fittings to be secured with machine screws and not through-bolted. This is popular with jib tracks and travelers. If the ply remains as it sometimes does, then when or if the sealant around the bolts fails, water will begin to find a way into the timber core. Good marine ply will resist this but will eventually begin to break down and cause the damage to spread. Spongy sections are the result, with a real risk of the fitting eventually pulling out in exciting circumstances—imagine that big genoa winch flying out of the deck when you are sheeting it on and you’ll know what I mean.

So decks have been cored for a long time and increasingly hull cores are also being used. Some builders have used cored topsides for quite some time; Bavaria has been using core materials above the waterline and solid GRP below for years. The benefits of core material in boats is plain, lighter weight, increased stiffness, better insulation and one would imagine less expensive in material, labor or both. Otherwise price point-conscious builders would not be using it. A number of high volume manufacturers who previously made solid GRP boats now produce cored hulls. Marlow Hunter is one example.

The downsides are equally apparent, less compressive strength and the potential for nasty problems like shearing—when the internal or external GRP skins part from the core—or water ingress that may compromise the hull to a greater or lesser extent. The strength of the core is directly related to the bond of the two skins to the core material, if this fails then there are two or three independent structures, not a single sandwich to bear the loads. All core materials are not equal and there are many products around that claim to be impervious to water ingress or of closed cell structure that will not allow water to spread to other areas.

Balsa has long been used as a core material and typically is supplied in small blocks that are about the size of a matchbox attached to a web like material—very similar to a sheet of ceramic tiles and all the blocks have a gap between them just like the tiles. The reasoning here is that GRP is applied between every block, which essentially encapsulates the individual blocks. If damage occurs that allows water into a block, it is trapped by the surrounding GRP and theoretically cannot migrate further. If poorly done, water will travel relatively freely and the core will rot; if damage is extensive, repair costs may exceed the value of the boat.

Balsa has good compressive strength and makes a good stiffening medium as demonstrated by Catalina with the 460 model in the mid 2000s. This hull had the solid GRP layup schedule of the 400 model but had balsa core added inboard on the topsides for additional stiffness. Many of the PVC and foam cores available also use the “tile” principle, which also assists in shaping the layup to curves but some do not and rely on the ability of the material to prevent water migration if it does find a way in.

More high tech boats, usually of the go fast variety, will use a lightweight core throughout the hull, both above and below the waterline. Impact resistance is lessened and exotic fibers such as Kevlar may be added as reinforcement. Kevlar has very good impact resistance and is difficult to penetrate. Jeanneau has been marketing “Kevlar energized” in their hulls for years and Hunter for quite a while also. Catamaran performance depends a lot on limiting the amount of weight, hence they perhaps benefit more from cored construction than any other type of cruising boat. Core material in boat furniture can also significantly reduce weight.

DAMAGE So you are considering a boat with a cored hull but there seems to be damage—what to do? Well the good news is that it can be fixed, but can you afford it? The biggest concern is the extent of the condition. Naturally a small amount of damage, identified early will not be an insurmountable problem. Essentially the process is to remove the damaged area, dry it if required and replace the material. This is easy if it is six inches of accessible deck, but is a massive undertaking if the damage is half of the hull.

For vessels with a large area of compromised core, a common owner’s fix has been to drill hundreds of holes in the affected area and dry it out as much as possible, which depends entirely on the people affecting the repair. When dry, the holes are then filled with a very thin epoxy so it can travel as the water had in the expectation that it will fill the voids in the laminate.

You are then left with these holes to fill, which will always be visible unless a full respray of the hull or deck is undertaken. The wisdom that “new paint hides many sins” sums this up, which is why many people are afraid of fresh paint jobs on boats that have just been put up for sale. A known cored hull can be closely inspected for damage or indications of compromise but can be hard to spot especially if the damage is manifest internally and may be concealed by furniture. Percussion testing and moisture meters are an imperfect science. Of course there is a whole lot more to building a decent hull than this and a million variables for the builder to consider. Curious souls could get a copy of Fiberglass Boats by Hugo Du Plessis.

DECK FITTINGS A good practice for installing or maintaining fittings on cores or even solid GRP (this will also degrade over the years if water gets in) is to drill oversized holes for the fasteners and fill them with marine epoxy such as West System with adhesive suitable micro fibers. Once this has gone off properly, the correct sized holes for the fasteners can be drilled and the bolts sealed with the appropriate sealant. This means the precious core is isolated from the holes and will remain dry even if the sealant does leak down the track. Many core materials (particularly foam types) are not at the best under compression and can crush under the force of the tightened bolts; backing plates or the largest washers practical are preferred to spread the compressive load.

John currently floats around in Langkawi, Malaysia and offers appraisals and surveys for production boats in the region. www.championmarinesurveyors.com

If you are thinking of buying in Asia he can be contacted at, [email protected] .

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The Battle Against Underwater Corrosion

Corrosion damage can be as simple as a pitted prop or as serious as a destroyed outdrive. Follow a few simple rules to prevent most types of corrosion.

Most insurance policies exclude corrosion damage. However, according to BoatUS Marine Insurance claims files, corrosion is directly responsible for some claims you might not have expected, including boats sunk from corrosion-damaged thru-hull fittings. There have even been reports of accidents caused by a corroded steering fitting that failed underway.

Improperly maintained saildrives are notorious for corrosion problems, but it doesn't have to be this way. A little bit of knowledge and the proper protection will keep your underwater metals happy and long-lived. (Photo: BoatUS Marine Insurance)

Boaters must understand what corrosion is and know how to protect a boat from it. Misinformation abounds, with many self-proclaimed experts ascribing unexpected metal and bottom-paint damage to vague descriptions of "electrolysis," "hot marinas," or "electricity in the water." The root causes of virtually all cases of "sudden and unexpected damage" are, in fact, inattention, improper materials, and poor system design. Let's look at the types of corrosion that happen to underwater metals on recreational watercraft and consider what you can do about it.

Problem No. 1: Galvanic Corrosion

Galvanic corrosion occurs naturally whenever two dissimilar metals, such as steel and bronze, are in contact with each other and wetted with a common electrolyte, such as seawater. No external voltage source is required to cause this corrosion damage as the chemical properties of the metals and the electrolyte produce an electrical current flow between the two metals and through the electrolyte. The metals don't even have to be submerged in the electrolyte; saltwater merely wetting the metal-on-metal connection can result in galvanic corrosion; for example, corrosion damage to an aluminum frame in close proximity to a stainless-steel fastener is galvanic corrosion.

Galvanic Series In Flowing Seawater

Ag/AgC1 reference; flow rate 2 to 4 meters/sec; 10° C to 26° C

Metal	Potential in millivolts
Magnesium & Alloys	-1,600 to -1,630
Zinc	-980 to -1,030
Aluminum Alloys	-760 to -1,000
Mild Steel	-600 to -710
Stainless Steels (active in still water)	-460 to -580
Aluminum Bronze	-310 to -420
Nibral	-310 to -420
Brasses	-300 to -400
Tin	-310 to -330
Copper	-300 to -570
Silicon Bronze	-260 to -290
Bronzes	-240 to -310
Copper Nickel (90/10)	-210 to -280
Copper Nickel (70/30)	-180 to -230
Lead	-190 to -250
304 Stainless Steel (Passive)	-50 to -100
Monel 400	-40 to -140
316 Stainless Steel (Passive)	00 to -100
Graphite	+200 to +300

The chemically produced electrical current will cause the "less-noble" (more likely to be damaged) metal to corrode (or sacrifice) while protecting the "more-noble" (less likely to be damaged) metal from corrosion. The galvanic series (see the "Galvanic series in flowing seawater" table above) will show which metals will sacrifice and which will be protected if connected while in contact with seawater. If three or more metals are interconnected and the surface area of the least-noble metal is large enough, then this least-noble metal will sacrifice itself and "protect" all the others. This is why galvanic corrosion can be easily controlled through the use of sacrificial anodes, called "cathodic protection." However, if the anode area exposed to seawater is insufficient to produce the galvanic current necessary for adequate protection, or if the anode becomes depleted, the next least-noble metal will also begin to corrode. For example, if the zinc anodes on an aluminum saildrive are not maintained, the aluminum will begin to sacrifice itself around stainless-steel fasteners or its bronze propeller. Likewise, if a boat with a properly installed safety ground is connected to shore power without a galvanic isolator or isolation transformer, then its anodes (and submerged metals) can actually protect the submerged metals connected to the dock.

Galvanic corrosion is not a significant problem if compatible metals (ones located near each other on the galvanic series) are used and/or a properly designed cathodic protection system is installed, monitored, and maintained. Cathodic bonding system wires have to be installed on fiberglass boats to interconnect the various metal thru-hull fittings and running gear. Another approach is to keep incompatible metals from touching each other and simply rely on their own corrosion resistance. This works if great care is taken with the selection of metals and they have their own anodes if needed. Trim tabs and IPS pod drives are examples of this approach.

Calcareous deposits and cathodic corrosion to aluminum out

This aluminum lower unit has a large stainless steel prop. Without proper cathodic protection, the aluminum housing will corrode. (Photo: James Coté)

For boaters, using anodes is how we protect against galvanic corrosion. Without them, your underwater metals can disintegrate, and you'll be on the hook for the repairs because insurance typically doesn't cover corrosion damage itself. Magnesium anodes can be used for cathodic protection and perform well in freshwater applications, but they damage bottom paint and can actually cause cathodic-corrosion damage to aluminum when used in seawater. Too many zinc anodes can also damage some types of bottom paint in extreme conditions but won't damage underwater metals. Aluminum-alloy anodes (a different alloy than that used in manufacturing aluminum hulls, outboards, and outdrives) are more efficient than zinc, lighter than zinc, and work in freshwater, seawater, or brackish water without damaging aluminum or bottom paint. Aluminum anodes probably will soon become the industry standard, and I recommend them.

Impressed-current systems utilize onboard electrical power sources to produce the currents necessary for cathodic protection. They're relatively more expensive to install initially but require less maintenance. When they work, they work extremely well; when they fail, they can fail big. Keep in mind, no cathodic protection system can protect internal piping, strainers, or bilge areas.

Far and away, the most common cause of rapid anode loss and accelerated metal damage below the waterline is galvanic current flow back to the dock. Just think of all the submerged metals connected to the dock ground; every boat that shares a grounded shore-power cord is connected to the others. Sacrificial anodes, such as zinc and aluminum, typically aren't large enough to protect all of these metals, as the cathodic current to protect the entire dock could be huge. Fortunately, a shore-power galvanic isolator or an isolation transformer can be used to block the galvanic current between boat and dock, eliminating the problem.

For an investment of about $200, you can make sure your vessel has adequate cathodic protection. Go to BoatUS.com/Corrosion-Test for a complete explanation.

Special Issues With Aluminum

Although aluminum is a very light and strong metal, with certain alloys performing very well in seawater environments, aluminum alloys are susceptible to galvanic corrosion when coupled with other metals. Galvanic current to the dock can be the kiss of death for aluminum outboards, outdrives, and sail drives, particularly if the owner uses the oil sheen on the water as his indicator that he should check his zincs!

Aluminum sail drives are especially susceptible to corrosion damage, mostly because they're out of sight and, thus, out of mind. Checking a sail drive's anodes once a season may not be sufficient, particularly if the sail drive is connected to other underwater metals with no additional anodes or if there is a galvanic current flow to the dock.

Aluminum is also one of the few metals susceptible to alternating-stray-current corrosion. This could become a significant issue with the proliferation of large aluminum outboards on boats stored in the water. If the dockside 120-volt neutral conductor is grounded at multiple locations, then the aluminum outboard can act as a grounding rod for the dock. A galvanic isolator won't prevent alternating-stray-current corrosion damage, but a properly connected isolation transformer will.

Aluminum can be severely damaged by overprotection, such as too much cathodic protection. While it's not possible to damage aluminum with zinc, it can be easily damaged by magnesium anodes or an impressed current system gone wild — or gone dead. A permanently installed corrosion monitor can be added for less than $1,000 (plus haulout charges) and is recommended for any vessel with aluminum hulls, running gear, or swim platforms.

Problem No. 2: Electrolytic Stray-Current Corrosion

Stray-current corrosion is usually caused by a DC voltage source, such as a battery, accidentally connected between two isolated metals wetted with a common electrolyte, such as seawater. In seawater, the metal connected to the positive terminal will suffer from rapid and catastrophic damage, and white calcareous deposits will form on the metal connected to the battery's negative terminal.

Stray-current corrosion can destroy a sterndrive in a matter of weeks. (Photo: BoatUS Marine Insurance)

Note that for stray-current corrosion to occur, there must be two isolated metals submerged in seawater (with no bonding system installed). For example, if a radio ground plate is connected to the battery negative and an alternator positive conductor faults to an ungrounded engine block, the prop shaft and prop can be destroyed in a matter of days. However, if the two wetted metals are interconnected with a bonding or grounding conductor, then stray-current corrosion is virtually impossible because the bonding/grounding conductor would short-circuit the errant voltage source. Preventing stray-current corrosion requires boat owners to periodically check their 12-volt electrical system for loose wires or poor or inadequate connections, especially in bilge areas, which can be full of seawater that acts as an electrolyte.

Stray current corrosion to bronze bow thruster

An errant 12-volt wire destroyed this bow thruster. (Photo: James Coté)

Problem No. 3: Oxygen-Depletion Attack

Also known as crevice corrosion, oxygen-depletion attack can catch unsuspecting boaters unaware. It attacks in crevices and other hidden areas, and it most commonly attacks stainless steel, which the typical layperson believes should be impervious to corrosion. However, while some grades of stainless steel are resistant to oxygen-depletion attack, others are quite susceptible. Using 316L stainless steel under the waterline, for example, would be akin to using pine for your wood decks instead of teak.

Oxygen depletion attack to a stainless steel propeller shaft

This stainless-steel propshaft is a victim of crevice corrosion; without a supply of fresh oxygen, even stainless steel is vulnerable. (Photo: James Coté)

The characteristic of stainless steel that makes it "stainless" is a chemical reaction of the metal at its surface with the oxygen in its environment. This reaction results in a film that protects the surface from corrosion. However, if part of the surface is in contact with low-oxygen stagnant water, then this part loses its protective film and becomes less noble than the remaining metal surfaces; it then behaves like a sacrificial anode. For example, if a vessel lies dockside for months without its prop shafts turning over, the water under the cutless bearing becomes stagnant. Pitting may develop, which causes the shaft to weaken; under power, it could snap while underway and potentially flood the boat.

Fortunately, there are grades of stainless steel whose compositions have been altered to reduce susceptibility to crevice corrosion; these grades of stainless steel are resistant to oxygen-depletion attack. The bottom line is that most stainless steel, including the typical 316L type, can corrode underwater, and thus, for the most part, shouldn't be used there.

Preventing corrosion damage to submerged metals may seem, in the planning stages, to be a technically complicated task, but enacting such a plan is relatively straightforward. Virtually all corrosion issues can be resolved in the pre-crisis stage through proper design, adequate cathodic protection, and a minimal amount of monitoring and maintenance.

The truth about ceramic coatings for boats.

Our editor investigates the marketing claims of consumer-grade ceramic coatings.

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James Coté

Contributor, BoatUS Magazine

James Coté is an electrical engineer, ABYC Master Technician, Fire Investigator and Marine Investigator. He operates a marine electric and corrosion control consulting firm located in Florida. For more information, go to: cotemarine.net

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Best ways of finding yacht salvage boats for sale, ideal theft recovery boats for sale.

Salvage boats for sale are a welcome choice for anyone who does not mind paying repairs to get the boat back to its normal condition. There are times when things do not go as planned and boats are damaged, but it is still possible to salvage them. Yacht Salvage is often sold at very low prices because at most times, the owners are simply trying to get rid of them.

Insurance companies and owners usually give hurricane damaged boats for sale and theft recovery boats for sale at Salvage boat auction in the coastal areas after major storms or other natural disasters take place. A good example of such an occurrence is hurricane Dorian that hit the Bahamas. This is an event that had a great impact on the properties that had been set up in the area and this included boats and houses. The sales skyrocket after the hurricane as the residents counted their losses.

Ideal wrecked boats for sale

Most people who choose to buy salvage boats for sale usually take them to people with skills to do the repairs. In some cases, the people who make the purchases already have the resources and the skills that are needed to make the boat as good as new if not better.

There are abundantly used theft recovery boats for sale across the nation that may be willing to pay bottom-dollar for an old boat if they think it might hold potential for a refit and then resale. If you can pull your boat to them on its own trailer you stand a fair chance of getting a buck or two for that old rig – after all, if you can bring it to them, that means the trailer’s roadworthy and that alone has some value.

Deciding on the best yacht salvage boats for sale

The first thing to do after you find hurricane salvage boats for sale is to find out the kind of condition that the boat was in before the disaster hit. When you have an idea about the kind of condition, the boat was in before the loss occurred. It is very important. You need to think of it as a boat that does not have any damage. This helps you determine whether it was maintained well and whether there were any other damages that existed.

You need to ask all the necessary questions before buying salvage yachts for sale, theft recovery boats for sale, or any other old boat. You need to pick a boat that can be fixed without necessarily working on the entire boat. This makes it possible to know the pre-loss value of the boat and therefore you may place realistic offers or bid.

Considering damage

After successfully determining the pre-loss condition of the Yacht Salvage, you now have to consider the extent of the damage caused by the event that took place. This helps you evaluate the damages and establish what will be needed for the repairs. When you are considering the damage, you should overestimate it.

Types of damage that you can find on salvage boats for sale

You need to understand the damages that could possibly occur to a boat during the disaster. There are different types and they include:

In the case of Submersion, hurricane damaged boats for sale have the most damage. Submersion damages the entire boat. Electronics equipment may be likely to tumble down by the water, but there is a possibility of saving the boat engine if it is taken care of instantly. This time it may be too late to prevent any actual damage and there are chances of hidden damage.

Dock rash happens when the boat rubs against other flutters, pilings, and the docks. Fixing can be done in some cases, but you may have to do some work to access some areas. You will need some skills repairing this kind of wrecked boats for sale .

Wind damage

Repairable boats could also be wind damaged and this can be noted on the sails and canvas that could be shredded. Structural damage can also be caused by wind. The mast could also fall and cause damage to the deck and the top of the cabin. When there is wind rain, then more damage could occur inside the boat.

Salvage damage

Another thing you could notice when you buy salvage boats for sale. This happens as the container is being recovered. This is because the process could involve considerable stress and strains of drawing the boat from the water and into a vehicle for transport

This is also common and causes damage to the gear and fittings underwater. You may have to check the propeller shafts, rudders, keels, and props. You need to carefully inspect the insides of the boat and ensure you look at the steering system as well.

It is possible for hurricane salvage boats for sale to have one or more of the above damages. This is why a buyer needs to get as much information as possible about the boat that they are buying. You can look for an expert opinion before boat purchase .

Damage on salvage boats/wrecked boats for sale

Buying a boat with known damage is usually forthright, but the buyer needs to be prepared for unknown damage which may reveal itself during the course of repair. I suggest finding a reputable boatyard to affect the repairs. Documentation that the repair was done professionally should settle any prospective buyer’s concerns down the road when it is time to resell. I also suggest having a contingency budget for those unknowns as part of your overall approach. Buying a storm-damaged boat will take some risk, effort, and investment, but can result in keeping a good boat.

Best salvage yachts for sale at a salvage boat auction

Harbor Shoppers is one of the places you can start your search for the Repo salvage boats for sale. We can offer you expert advice regarding the best boats for sale from Yacht Salvage auctions online.

You can also search location-specific keywords on our website such as salvage boats Florida, hurricane damaged boats for sale BVI, junk boats for sale Bahamas , repairable boats for sale Dorian , salvage boats Texas, salvage boats Michigan, storm damaged boats for sale USA, etc.

We can also give an overview of some of the repairs that are necessary to get the boat up and running at a fair price. Also, you can get more information about Catamaran for sale , sailboats for sale , boat auctions , trawler boats for sale , small power boats for sale , used fishing boats for sale , used outboard motors for sale , repo boats for sale , cheap yachts for sale , cabin cruiser boats for sale , sailing boats for sale , high performance boats for sale , small boats for sale , cheap boats for sale , used boats for sale , powerboats for sale , monohulls for sale , ferry boats for sale , pleasure boats for sale , used deep v boats for sale , inflatable boats for sale , etc.

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31-05-2017, 02:15
Boat: Benetteau Oceanis	55 to buy. She seems structurally sound but shabby and neglected. There are many areas where the woodwork is damaged around the portholes and in the . The décor is cherry, and where it is damaged it is blackened with white edges. Obviously the first job would be to find the source of the leak (looks to be leaky portholes) and fix it/them. After that, how easy is it to get the woodwork restored? What experience do folks have with French polishers? The is currently in Corfu and we could over her in or . It seems like a superficial thing, but it's like a beautiful woman who smiles to show she has rotting teeth. Thanks for your help! Rachel

31-05-2017, 03:00
Boat: Sayer 46' Solent rig sloop	water damage to as new condition. The water got in there, and did damage. New is no longer possible. Sorry to bear bad tidings, hope someone can offer hope. If it's already your , and you love it, take all the old off. Then, after the have been taken care of, sand it with really fine grit, till it's as clean as it can be. Then get the finest sable hair brush you can, and, with a set of paints, very, very carefully emulate the grain and color of the that has been damaged. If you have a very light hand at this, and stain the damaged timber well, then over, and never say a word. Disclaimer: I don't know if this would , but if I loved the boat, I'd give it a go, but softly, softly. Ann

31-05-2017, 03:39
Boat: Bestevaer.	but have the painted areas matching throughout the boat. I think the combination of white and wood veneer looks very attractive, but this is personal taste. It does also help brighten up the and make it feel larger. You can photograph the and use photoshop to change the colour to get an idea how it will look.

31-05-2017, 04:33

31-05-2017, 08:10
Boat: President 43 Sportfish	"whatever spare parts you bring, you'll never need"--goboatingnow "Id rather drown than have computers take over my life."--d design

31-05-2017, 08:38
	but just blackening from water damage, I concur with careful , drying and painting with a satin white around portholes etc. It looks great. Removing portlites, and resealing can be a big job, but doable for sure. If you have to remove the portlites, you might as well re veneer, or use laminate. - Elmore Leonard

31-05-2017, 09:40
Boat: Catalina 30	with butyl tape. Make sure they are water tight. Now, that's not as tough a job as you might think... compared to what will follow... Next, sand around the affected areas lightly. Get all the varnish off. You will next want to mix up some wood bleach -- which is either oxalic acid or chlorine based. Apply that and let the black disappear. At that point, you can use a very, very light stain and get the color to match. Remember if you fail miserably at this, you can always go and it, like some others have recommended. But if you succeed at this step, nobody will ever be able to tell that you had a problem. Finally, once it's right, do one last step: put penetrating around the edges so a future leak won't cause any problems. Then re-varnish everything. Warning: this process takes a long time, a lot of effort and it's not easy. The results, however, can be spectacular. Option # 2, especially if the stains are small and just right around the port openings, is to make up some 1" rings of 1/8 " ply and glue them on. I did this with one , and this 1" ring of ply looks like it was original. Blends right in, hides a hideous gouge where some dry was. The alternative was to take the whole down and engage in major surgery. On the other hand, you may wish to just paint it all white and forget about it.

31-05-2017, 09:46
Boat: 35ft classic ketch/yawl.	but depending on how bad it is can you strip out the effected peices and use them as a template to replace the timber? If the come out cutting new one with a fine tooth band saw is not difficult. it is worth it depends on hoe much this is affecting the of the boat. Get the survayor to estimate boat yard costs and use that to negotiate because with a high end boat a lot of the value is in the interior. Also make sure everything else is good!!

31-05-2017, 10:00
	damage to or around the area visible which is hideously difficult/expensive to repair?

31-05-2017, 10:05

Boat: Colvic 34 - 40' Ketch

31-05-2017, 10:55

31-05-2017, 11:39

Boat: Homebuilt schooner 64 ft. Sold.

31-05-2017, 17:53
Boat: Baba 40	run a moisture meter around the ? Fell in love with a boat a few years ago only to get the bad news every port had allowed water to saturate the sandwich. Still bummed...

31-05-2017, 18:28
Boat: Wheeler Shipyard 83' ex USCG	over the stained sections or the whole interior and retrim. In the US, thin can be bought with almost any exotic wood face. Somewhere around 2-3mm. But the leaks 1st or you start all over.

01-06-2017, 00:06
Boat: Outbound 44	have this look to brighten up the , making it look less like a dark library.

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Yachting Monthly

Digital edition

Sailing in lightning: how to keep your yacht safe

In partnership with Katy Stickland
July 22, 2022

How much of a concern is a lightning strike to a yacht and what can we do about it? Nigel Calder looks at what makes a full ‘belt and braces’ lightning protection system

Storm clouds gather at Cowes, but what lightning protection system, if any, does your boat have for anchoring or sailing in lightning? Credit: Patrick Eden/Alamy Stock Photo

Most sailors worry about sailing in lightning to some extent, writes Nigel Calder .

After all, going around with a tall metal pole on a flat sea when storm clouds threaten doesn’t seem like the best idea to most of us.

In reality, thunder storms need plenty of energy, driven by the sun, and are much less frequent in northern Europe than in the tropics.

However, high currents passing through resistive conductors generate heat.

Small diameter conductors melt; wooden masts explode; and air gaps that are bridged by an arc start fires.

A boat Sailing in lightning: Lightning is 10 times more likely over land than sea, as the land heats up more than water, providing the stronger convection currents needed to create a charge. Credit: BAE Inc/Alamy Stock Photo

Sailing in lightning: Lightning is 10 times more likely over land than sea, as the land heats up more than water, providing the stronger convection currents needed to create a charge. Credit: BAE Inc/Alamy Stock Photo

On boats, radio antennas may be vaporised, and metal thru-hulls blown out of the hull, or the surrounding fiberglass melted, with areas of gelcoat blown off.

Wherever you sail, lightning needs to be taken seriously.

Understanding how lightning works, will help you evaluate the risks and make an informed decision about the level of protection you want on your boat and what precautions to take.

Most lightning is what’s called negative lightning, between the lower levels of clouds and the earth. Intermittent pre-discharges occur, ionising the air.

Whereas air is normally a poor electrical conductor, ionised air is an excellent conductor.

These pre-discharges (stepped leaders) are countered by a so-called attachment spark (streamer), which emanates from pointed objects (towers, masts, or lightning rods) that stand out from their surroundings due to their height.

Summer is the season for lightning storms in the UK. Here, one finds early at Instow, Devon. Credit: Terry Matthews/Alamy Stock Photo

This process continues until an attachment spark connects with a stepped leader, creating a lightning channel of ionised air molecules from the cloud to ground.

The main discharge, typically a series of discharges, now takes place through the lightning channel.

Negative lightning bolts are 1 to 2km (0.6 to 1.2 miles) long and have an average current of 20,000A.

Positive lightning bolts are much rarer and they can have currents of up to 300,000A.

Preventing damage when sailing in lightning

A lightning protection system (LPS) is designed to divert lightning energy to ground (in this case the sea), in such a way that no damage occurs to the boat or to people.

Ideally, this also includes protecting a boat’s electrical and electronic systems, but marine electronics are sensitive and this level of protection is hard to achieve.

Lightning protection systems have two key components: First, a mechanism to provide a path with as little resistance as possible that conducts a lightning strike to the water.

This is established with a substantial conductor from an air-terminal to the water.

A diagram showing the Components of an external and internal lightning protection system

Components of an external and internal lightning protection system. Credit: Maxine Heath

This part of the LPS is sometimes called external lightning protection.

Second, a mechanism to prevent the development of high voltages on, and voltage differences between, conductive objects on the boat.

This is achieved by connecting all major metal objects on and below deck to the water by an equipotential bonding system.

Without this bonding system high enough voltage differences can arise on a boat to develop dangerous side flashes.

The bonding system can be thought of as internal lightning protection.

Rolling ball concept

Lightning standards, which apply ashore and afloat, define five lightning protection ‘classes’, ranging from Class V (no protection) to Class I.

There are two core parameters: the maximum current the system must be able to withstand, which determines the sizing of various components in the system, and the arrangement and number of the air terminals, aka lightning rods.

Let’s look at the arrangement of the air terminals first. It is best explained by the rolling ball concept.

A lightning strike is initiated by the stepped leaders and attachment sparks connecting to form the lightning channel.

The distance between the stepped leader and the attachment sparks is known as the breakdown distance or striking distance.

If we imagine a ball with a radius equal to the striking distance, and we roll this ball around an object to be protected, the upper points of contact define the possible lightning impact points that need to be protected by air terminals.

Lightning protection theories and classifications rely on a ‘rolling ball’ concept to define requirements, areas of risk and protected areas. Credit: Maxine Heath

The air terminal will theoretically provide a zone of protection from the point at which the terminal connects with the circumference of the rolling ball down to the point at which that circumference touches the water.

The shorter the striking distance, the less the radius of the rolling ball and the smaller the area within the protection zone defined by the circumference of the rolling ball.

The smaller the protection zone, the more air terminals we need. So, we use the shortest striking distance to determine the minimum number and location of air terminals.

Class I protection assumes a rolling ball radius of 20m; Class II assumes a rolling ball radius of 30m.

Continues below…

Lightning: why we were struck

A personal investigation into how and why a catamaran was hit by lightning

The effects of a lightning strike on a VHF aerial on a yacht

‘Lightning destroyed the boat’s electronics’

Paul Tinley recounts a truly shocking lightning experience aboard his Beneteau 393 Blue Mistress and the subsequent insurance claim

Expert advice: boating emergency

A boating emergency is the sort of thing that everyone taking to the water should be prepared for even if,…

How batteries can explode – and how to avoid it

Marine electrical expert Nigel Calder explains why boat batteries emit hydrogen and how to minimise the dangers

Boat building standards are based on a striking distance/rolling ball radius of 30m (Class II).

For masts up to 30m above the waterline, the circumference of the ball from the point at which it contacts the top of the mast down to the water will define the zone of protection.

For masts higher than 30m above the waterline, the ball will contact the mast at 30m and this will define the limit of the zone of protection.

If Class I protection is wanted, the radius of the ball is reduced to 20m, which significantly reduces the zone of protection and, on many larger recreational boats, may theoretically necessitate more than one air terminal.

Protection classes

With most single-masted monohull yachts, an air terminal at the top of the mast is sufficient to protect the entire boat to Class I standards.

The circumference of the rolling ball from the tip of the mast down to the surface of the water does not intercept any part of the hull or rig.

However, someone standing on the fore or aft deck might have the upper part of their body contact the rolling ball, which tells us this is no place to be in a lightning storm.

Some boats have relatively high equipment or platforms over and behind the cockpit.

Protection classes to protect your boat while anchored or sailing in lightning

These fittings and structures may or may not be outside the circumference of the rolling ball.

Once again, this tells us to avoid contact with these structures during a lightning storm.

Ketch, yawl, and schooner rigged boats generally require air terminals on all masts, except when the mizzen is significantly shorter than the main mast.

The external LPS

The external LPS consists of the air terminal, a down conductor, and an earthing system – a lightning grounding terminal.

The down conductor is also known as a primary lightning protection conductor.

All components must be sized to carry the highest lightning peak current corresponding to the protection class chosen.

In particular, the material and cross-sectional area of the air terminal and down conductor must be such that the lightning current does not cause excessive heating.

The air terminal needs to extend a minimum of 150mm above the mast to which it is attached.

A graph depicting NASA’s record of yearly global lightning events. The Congo once recorded more than 450 strikes per km2

It can be a minimum 10mm diameter copper rod, or 13mm diameter aluminum solid rod.

It should have a rounded, rather than a pointed, top end.

VHF antennas are commonly destroyed in a lightning strike.

If an antenna is hit and is not protected by a lightning arrestor at its base, the lightning may enter the boat via the antenna’s coax cable.

A lightning arrestor is inserted in the line between the coax cable and the base of the antenna.

It has a substantial connection to the boat’s grounding system, which, on an aluminum mast, is created by its connection to the mast.

In normal circumstances, the lightning arrestor is nonconductive to ground.

When hit by very high voltages it shorts to ground, in theory causing a lightning strike to bypass the coax – although the effectiveness of such devices is a matter of some dispute.

Down conductors

A down conductor is the electrically conductive connection between an air terminal and the grounding terminal.

For many years, this conductor was required to have a resistance no more than that of a 16mm² copper conductor, but following further research, the down conductor is now required to have a resistance not greater than that of a 20mm² copper conductor.

For Class I protection, 25mm² is needed. This is to minimise heating effects.

Let’s say instead we use a copper conductor with a cross-sectional area of 16mm² and it is hit by a lightning strike with a peak current corresponding to Protection Class IV.

A cable on the side of the yacht designed to ground the boat if sailing in lightning

Sailing in lightning: This catamaran relies upon cabling to ground from the shrouds but stainless steel wire is not a good enough conductor. Credit: Wietze van der Laan

The conductor will experience a temperature increase of 56°C. A 16mm² conductor made of stainless steel (for example, rigging ) will reach well over 1,000°C and melt or evaporate.

Shrouds and stays on sailboats should be connected into a LPS only to prevent side flashes.

The cross-sectional area of the metal in aluminum masts on even small sailboats is such that it provides a low enough resistance path to be the down conductor.

Whether deck- or keel-mounted, the mast will require a low resistance path, equivalent to a 25mm² copper conductor, from the base of the mast to the grounding terminal.

Grounding terminal

Metal hulled boats can use the hull as the grounding terminal. All other boats need an adequate mass of underwater metal.

In salt water this needs a minimum area of 0.1m². In fresh water, European standards call for the grounding terminal to be up to 0.25m².

A grounding terminal must be submerged under all operating conditions.

An external lead or iron keel on monohull sailing boats can serve as a grounding terminal.

A yacht out of the water on metal stilts while work is being done on it

This owner of this Florida-based yacht decided to keep the keel out of the equation when is came to a grounding plate. High electrical currents don’t like sharp corners, so a grounding plate directly beneath the mast makes for an easier route to ground. Credit: Malcolm Morgan

In the absence of a keel , the cumulative surface area of various underwater components – propellers, metal thru-hulls, rudders – is often more than sufficient to meet the area requirements for a grounding terminal.

However, these can only be considered adequate if they are situated below the air terminal and down conductor and individually have the requisite surface area.

Metal through-hulls do not meet this requirement.

If underwater hardware, such as a keel, is adequate to be used as the grounding terminal, the interconnecting conductor is part of the primary down conductor system and needs to be sized accordingly at 25mm².

Propellers and radio ground plates

Regardless of its size, a propeller is not suitable as a grounding terminal for two reasons.

First, it is very difficult to make the necessary low-resistance electrical connection to the propeller shaft, and second, the primary conductor now runs horizontally through the boat.

The risk of side flashes within the boat, and through the hull to the water is increased.

A hull and keel on a yacht showing damage from a lightning strike while sailing in lightning

Sailing in lightning: GRP hull, fairing filler and iron keel will have carried different voltages during the strike – hence this damage

An engine should never be included in the main (primary) conducting path to a grounding terminal.

On modern engines, sensitive electronic controls will be destroyed in a lightning strike, and on all engines, oil in bearings and between gears will create resistance and therefore considerable heat which is likely to result in internal damage.

However, as it is a large conductive object, the engine should be connected to the internal lightning protection system.

Internal lightning protection

On its way to ground, lightning causes considerable voltage differences in adjacent objects – up to hundreds of thousands of volts.

This applies to boats with a functioning external lightning protection system but without internal protection.

Although the lightning has been given a path to ground along which it will cause as little damage as possible, dangerous voltages can be generated elsewhere, resulting in arcing and side flashes, threatening the boat and crew, and destroying electronic equipment.

We prevent these damaging voltage differences from arising by connecting all substantial metal objects on the boat to a common grounding point.

A lightning strike hitting a yacht' mast while the boat is sailing in lightning

One of the holy grails of marine photography – a direct lightning strike on a yacht’s mast. Credit: Apex

The grounding terminal is also wired to the common grounding point.

By tying all these circuits and objects together we hold them at a common voltage, preventing the build-up of voltage differences between them.

All conductive surfaces that might be touched at the same time, such as a backstay and a steering wheel, need to be held to the same voltage.

If the voltages are the same, there will be no arcing and no side flashes.

The bonding conductors in this internal LPS need to be stranded copper with a minimum size of 16mm².

Note that there can be bonding of the same object for corrosion prevention, lightning protection, and sometimes DC grounding.

We do not need three separate conductors.

Electronic Device Protection

With lightning protection systems, we need to distinguish electric circuit and people protection from device protection.

Even with an internal LPS, high induced voltages may occur on ungrounded conductors (such as DC positive) which will destroy any attached electronics.

A mechanism is needed to short high transient voltages to ground.

This is done with surge protection devices (SPD), also known as transient voltage surge suppressors (TVSS) or lightning arrestors.

Marine-specific surge protection devices with a blue and black case. They are few in number and domestic models are not suitable for boats

Marine-specific SPDs are few in number and domestic models are not suitable for boats

In normal circumstances these devices are non-conductive, but if a specified voltage – the clamping voltage – is exceeded they divert the spike to ground.

There are levels of protection defined in various standards depending on the voltages and currents that can be handled, the speed with which this occurs, and other factors.

This is a highly technical subject for which it is advisable to seek professional support.

Most SPDs are designed for AC circuits.

When it comes to DC circuits there are far fewer choices available to boat owners although there are an increasing number for solar installations that may be appropriate.

There is no such thing as a lightning-proof boat, only a lightning-protected boat, and for this there needs to be a properly installed LPS.

Nigel Calder is a lifelong sailor and author of Boatowner’s Mechanical and Electrical Manual. He is involved in setting standards for leisure boats in the USA

Even so, in a major strike the forces involved are so colossal that no practical measures can be guaranteed to protect sensitive electronic equipment.

For this, protection can be provided with specialised surge protection devices (SPDs).

The chances of a direct lightning strike on a yacht are very small, and the further we are north or south of the equator, the smaller this chance becomes.

It’s likely your chances of receiving a direct lightning strike are very much higher on a golf course than at sea.

‘Bottle brush’-type lightning dissipators are claimed by sellers to make a boat invisible to lightning by bleeding off static electrical charge as it builds up.

The theory rests upon the concept that charged electrons from the surface of the earth can be made to congregate on a metal point, where the physical constraints caused by the geometry of the point will result in electrons being pushed off into the surrounding atmosphere via a ‘lightning dissipator’ that has not just one point, but many points.

It is worth noting that the concept has met with a storm of derision from many leading academics who have argued that the magnitude of the charge that can be dissipated by such a device is insignificant compared to that of both a cloud and individual lightning strikes.

It seems that the viable choices for lightning protection remain the LPS detailed above, your boatbuilder’s chosen system (if any), or taking one’s chances with nothing and the (reasonable) confidence that it’s possible to sail many times round the world with no protection and suffer no direct strikes.

Whichever way you go, it pays to stay off the golf course!

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NEWS... BUT NOT AS YOU KNOW IT

Passengers scream as superyacht worth £95m crashes into smaller boat

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This is the shocking moment a £95 million superyacht crashed into a smaller boat with at least six people on board.

Footage shows the 232 ft boat named Ice gliding through the water as it heads towards another boat off the coast of Yalıkavak, Turkey on Saturday.

Passengers on the smaller boat can be heard screaming as the superyacht sails towards them.

The vessel’s bow then crashed into the stern of a 101ft motor yacht carrying at least half a dozen people.

It is unclear why the collision occurred, but has been reported that at least half a dozen people were on the smaller boat at the time.

The boat suffered major damage at the stern but no onboard was injured.

Story from Jam Press (Yacht Crash) Pictured: Video grab - Footage of the two large yachts colliding. VIDEO: Shocking moment 295ft super yacht worth ??95m SLAMS into anchored boat A video has been shared of the shocking moment a 295ft yacht crashed into another vessel. Footage of the incident shows the L??rssen super yacht gliding through the water as it heads towards another boat. It can then be seen getting closer, with disaster on the cards. Moments later, the vessel???s bow crashes into the stern of a 101ft motor yacht. It is unclear why the collision occurred, but has been reported that at least half a dozen people were on the smaller boat at the time. The event occurred on Saturday 31 August, just off the coast of Yal??kavak, Bodrum in Turkey, as reported by Whats the Jam. The super yacht, named Ice was designed by Tim Heywood (exterior) and Terence Disdale (interior). It can accommodate 14 guests and 27 crew members. The super yacht is reportedly worth $125m (??95m) with impressive features such as a large helipad, beauty salon and bathtubs carved out of solid limestone. There is also a state-of-the-art gym, jacuzzi and countless lounge and relaxation areas, both in- and outdoors. The motor yacht that was struck is also a luxurious boat with a sundeck, lounge and room for up to eight people. It has suffered major damage at the stern but fortunately those onboard were left uninjured. The Coast Guard has launched an investigation into the incident. ENDS EDITOR???S NOTES: Usage Licence: (SOCIAL AND LOCAL MEDIA) We have obtained this material from a verified account on social media platforms and it has been widely used in local news media on a similar report without problems. Usage Restrictions: Jam press accepts all responsibility for use on news media portals only, usage on social media platforms like Facebook and YouTube is not guaranteed.

The superyacht is part of the Lürssen shipbuilding company and can hold 14 guests and 27 crew members.

Features include a large helipad, beauty salon and bathtubs carved out of solid limestone.

There is also a state-of-the-art gym, jacuzzi and countless lounge and relaxation areas, both in- and outdoors.

The Coast Guard has launched an investigation into the incident.

In June two boats were involved in a devastating crash and a sailor was thrown overboard during a yacht race.

A man was flung from a boat as competitors battled rough seas during the Round the Island Race in the Isle of Wight today.

He then desperately clung onto his life jacket before being rescued.

The Royal National Lifeboat Institution (RNLI) rushed to his aid to pull him from the water despite the extreme conditions.

Get in touch with our news team by emailing us at [email protected] .

For more stories like this, check our news page .

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Omsk Oblast

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The flag of Omsk Oblast is a rectangular cloth of three vertical bands of equal size: the right and left red and white medium. In the centre of the white band, there is a blue vertical wavy azure pole which is 1/3 of its width.

The ratio of the flag's width to its length is 2:3.

The interpretation of symbols [ ]

The main background of the flag of Omsk Oblast is red. It symbolizes bravery, courage, fearlessness. It is the colour of life, charity, and love.

The white symbolizes nobility, purity, justice, generosity, and indicates the climatic features of Siberia.

The wavy azure (blue) post symbolizes the Irtysh River, the main waterway of the oblast. Allegorically, the blue reflects beauty, majesty, and gentleness.

Flag Redesigns [ ]

• T

2 Gallery of flags of dependent territories
3 Flags of country subdivisions

Category : History of Omsk Oblast

Federal subjects of the Russian Federation:

Instance of

Location

, Russia

Authority file

Subcategories

This category has the following 10 subcategories, out of 10 total.

Omsk Oblast by century ‎ (2 C)
Omsk Oblast by decade ‎ (5 C)
Omsk Oblast by year ‎ (23 C)
Historical images of Omsk Oblast ‎ (2 C, 4 F)
History of Omsk ‎ (4 C, 12 F)
Monuments and memorials in Omsk Oblast ‎ (7 C, 8 F)
Stepnoy Krai ‎ (1 C)
Tobolsk viceroyalty ‎ (4 C)
Tobolsky Okrug ‎ (1 F)
Ust'-Ishim man ‎ (7 F)

Omsk Oblast
History of Russia by region
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Apr 30, 2013. Owners and insurance companies sell a wave of damaged boats soon after a major storm hits the coast. These boats can a bargain for those with the skills and resources to repair them, but they also can be the proverbial "hole in the water" waiting to be filled with money, sweat and lost hopes.
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A damaged bellows can cause damage to output shafts and gimbal bearings (due to water-induced corrosion) and can even lead to sinking in some cases. Outdrive bellows can deteriorate and fail over time due to age, exposure to ultraviolet light, or physical damage caused by hard marine growth.
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Salvage Boats for sale & salvage boat auction - Get best Yacht Salvage, Hurricane Damaged, Junk, Wrecked & Theft Recovery boats for sale at Harbor Shoppers. 1 (800) 484-0367. Register; ... This is because the process could involve considerable stress and strains of drawing the boat from the water and into a vehicle for transport.
How fixable is water damaged wood interior?
Hi all, We are looking at a 1996 Oyster 55 to buy. She seems structurally sound but shabby and neglected. There are many areas where the woodwork is water damaged around the portholes and in the galley.The décor is cherry, and where it is water damaged it is blackened with white edges. Obviously the first job would be to find the source of the leak (looks to be leaky portholes) and fix it/them.
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And there's another key characteristic to take note of during tap testing. "When you bring the hammer down and hit a solid laminate, your hand will bounce back to you," says Perette. "But if you hit a wet area, the hammer does not bounce back as strongly.". Group agrees. "It's all about gauging the reflective energy," says Group.
Sailing in lightning: how to keep your yacht safe
In salt water this needs a minimum area of 0.1m². In fresh water, European standards call for the grounding terminal to be up to 0.25m². A grounding terminal must be submerged under all operating conditions. An external lead or iron keel on monohull sailing boats can serve as a grounding terminal.
Passengers scream as superyacht worth £95m crashes into smaller boat
This is the shocking moment a £95 million superyacht crashed into a smaller boat with at least six people on board. Footage shows the 232 ft boat named Ice gliding through the water as it heads ...
Omsk, Russia: All You Must Know Before You Go (2024 ...
Omsk State Theatre of Puppet, Actor, Mask Arlekin. 37. Theaters. Omsk Tourism: Tripadvisor has 13,435 reviews of Omsk Hotels, Attractions, and Restaurants making it your best Omsk resource.
Omsk Oblast
Omsk Oblast (Russian: О́мская о́бласть, romanized: Omskaya oblast') is a federal subject of Russia (an oblast), located in southwestern Siberia.The oblast has an area of 139,700 square kilometers (53,900 sq mi). Its population is 1,977,665 (2010 Census) [9] with the majority, 1.12 million, living in Omsk, the administrative center.One of the Omsk streets
Omsk Oblast
The Flag of Omsk Oblast Is Official Since June 17, 2003. The flag of Omsk Oblast is a rectangular cloth of three vertical bands of equal size: the right and left red and white medium. In the centre of the white band, there is a blue vertical wavy azure pole which is 1/3 of its width. The ratio of the flag's width to its length is 2:3. The main background of the flag of Omsk Oblast is red. It ...
Category:History of Omsk Oblast
From Wikimedia Commons, the free media repository. Jump to navigation Jump to search. Federal subjects of the Russian Federation: Republics: Adygea · Altai · Bashkortostan · Buryatia · Chechnya · Chuvashia · · Dagestan · Ingushetia · Kabardino-Balkaria · Kalmykia · Karachay-Cherkessia · Karelia · Khakassia · Komi · Mari El · Mordovia · North Ossetia — Alania · Sakha ...

yacht water damage

Yachting Monthly

Sailing in lightning: how to keep your yacht safe

Preventing damage when sailing in lightning

Rolling ball concept

Lightning: why we were struck

‘Lightning destroyed the boat’s electronics’

Expert advice: boating emergency

How batteries can explode – and how to avoid it

Protection classes

The external LPS

Down conductors

Grounding terminal

Propellers and radio ground plates

Internal lightning protection

Electronic Device Protection

Enjoyed reading Sailing in lightning: how to keep your yacht safe?

Passengers scream as superyacht worth £95m crashes into smaller boat

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Category : History of Omsk Oblast

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Yachting Monthly

Sailing in lightning: how to keep your yacht safe

Preventing damage when sailing in lightning

Rolling ball concept

Lightning: why we were struck

‘Lightning destroyed the boat’s electronics’

Expert advice: boating emergency

How batteries can explode – and how to avoid it

Protection classes

The external LPS

Down conductors

Grounding terminal

Propellers and radio ground plates

Internal lightning protection

Electronic Device Protection

Enjoyed reading Sailing in lightning: how to keep your yacht safe?

Passengers scream as superyacht worth £95m crashes into smaller boat

Share this with

Sign Up for News Updates

Omsk Oblast

The interpretation of symbols [ ]

Flag Redesigns [ ]

Category : History of Omsk Oblast

Subcategories

Navigation menu

COMMENTS