sailboat taking on water

Water In The Bilge? 8 Helpful Answers (For Beginners)

As a boat owner, you will need to know how to deal with water in the bilge.

Depending on the amount of water and the size of your boat, you may need to remove or “let the water be.”

The following are eight of the most common questions about the water in the bilge:

Table of Contents

1. How Does The Water Get In The Bilge?

Water can enter a boat through various sources.

This water may include substances such as debris, detergents, seawater from leaks or rough seas, rainwater, and so forth.

Since the bilge is the lowest part of a boat, all unwanted water is collected when the boat is resting or in still waters.

2. Do Boats Take On Water While Sitting Still?

If water can find a way to get in, it will.  Rain is one obvious source.

The boat has a lower chance of taking in water if it is anchored/moored and in calm waters when sitting still.

High waves tend to crash against a boat’s hull and spill some water into the boat. This is when a boat is most likely to take on water even if it is sitting still.

The other main cause of taking water is a leak. This may be due to a leaking hose, some penetration like the propeller shaft, or a hole in the hull that was previously unnoticed.

Leaks generally take time to be noticed, and it may be hours or even days before you notice one on your boat.

This is the reason why you need to inspect the boat thoroughly before and after you take it out.

3. How Do You Find A Water Leak In Bilge?

One of the challenges of maintaining a boat is finding a leak in the bilge.

The best option for boats kept on a trailer is to wait for smooth conditions, often just before sunset.

Make sure the bilge is completely dry, and then carefully launch the boat. This ensures water does not splash over the transom into the bilge.

You can use a flashlight to illuminate the bilge and look for the source of water leaks.

It is easier to find leaks using a flashlight in the dim light of dusk. It may appear as a trickle of water or a flowing leak.

You can determine what needs to be repaired by following the leak back to the source.

A potential leak can come from anything that penetrates your boat’s hull. Common sources of water leaks include:

• Outboard motor mounting bolts
• Screwing holes for depth-finder transducers
• Wash-down pump through-hulls
• Drain plugs
• Live well intakes or drains.

4. What to Do With Oily Bilge Water?

Please get rid of it!

Every boat has bilge water, but some have oily bilge water. As a boater, you should know how to dispose of it properly. You can use the services of a professional or go it the D-I-Y (Do-It-Yourself) way.

Avoid using the bilge pump to get rid of oily water.

It leaves behind a bad looking oil slick that is harmful to the environment and might be a criminal offense.

Instead, use absorbent bilge pads to line your hull. These are available at the majority of marine stores. The pads are designed to absorb the oil but not the water.

Bilge cleaners, detergents, or soaps do not mitigate the harmful effects of oil and gas in water, and some say it makes the pollution more harmful.

These products tend to spread hazardous waste out over a larger area, affecting more of the shoreline. You can use the bilge pump to get rid of the water after you have used the pads to get rid of all the oil.

5. Should There Be Any Water In The Bilge?

Yes! The question is how much water should be present in the bilge.

Anything that causes the bilge pump to operate frequently because of the automatic float switch should be investigated. If the bilge water keeps coming in, hunt it down and address it.

Often, air conditioning condensate is routed to the bilge. If this is the case, you will never have a perfectly dry bilge anytime the air is running.

If sinks or showers drain into the bilge, they should be rerouted to a gray water tank or overboard.

If you don’t do this, you will eventually have a smelly bilge that will lead to a smelly boat.

6. Is It Normal To Have Water In The Bottom of A Boat?

A boat has lots of nooks and crannies capable of holding water, and bigger boats have plenty of hull penetrations that can allow small leaks.

For example, spills, rain, and washing the boat can put water in the boat.

Most boats can look powder dry when they are on land, a lift, or a trailer.

Once you back down the ramp, the bilge pump may trigger for a few seconds. This is normal and should not be a cause for concern as long as the water does not keep entering the boat.

As long as the bilge pump is not running often, the amount of water in the bilge should be safe.

7. How Do Boats Get The Water Out Of The Bilge?

There are two main ways to get water out of the bilge.

You can choose to use buckets or have a bilge pump installed (if one isn’t installed). Both methods are effective, depending on the situation.

The good news is modern-day boats have automatic pumps with sensors. These switch on when they detect a certain level of water in the bilge.

Unfortunately, these pumps cannot detect debris, soap, oil, and other water contaminants, so these can also be pumped into the surrounding water.

Due to current maritime laws, it is wise to check the water condition in the bilge before you use a pump. If the water is contaminated, you may need to get rid of it manually.

The manual method is the most effective when it isn’t an emergency. In case there is oil and other substances such as soap, make use of absorbent pads. Once you are done, you can remove the water using a bucket or similar container.

You can check out Why Do Boats Spit Out Water? 6 Quick Answers (For Beginners) for more information on how boats get water out of the bilge.

8. Why Is It Important To Get Rid Of Water In The Bilge?

Water in the bilge is not recommended and should be kept to a minimum level.

There are three main reasons why you should always ensure your bilge is clean and dry:

Rust Creation

Rust prevails in areas with high humidity and standing water.

Since rust is caused by combining water and steel with oxygen, humidity plays a major role. Humidity from the bilge will attack the coatings and finishing on metal parts, including your engines.

Once rust starts to form, it will require extra maintenance to remove and prevent in the future.

Ruins Interiors

If mildew and mold weren’t already a problem in your storage compartments, humidity from the bilge could find a way into the interiors of your boat.

A humid and wet bilge means a humid cabin.

You may begin to notice mildew growing in the cabin’s upholstery and carpet as this humidity starts moving to the upper decks.

Apart from your lower bilge compartments where mold may not be such a problem, mold can start to form in other parts of your boat.

If you do not put a cap on the situation, you may be in for serious renovations that will cost you a lot of money.

Creates an Uncomfortable Boating Experience

People usually run their boat’s air conditioning systems to use the AC as a giant dehumidifier and not control the temperature.

Water in the bilge increases the overall humidity in a boat.

It also means the AC will not perform at peak since most systems usually empty the bilge’s condensate. Leaving water in the bilge increases the chances of a more humid boating experience.

Chances of enjoying a ride in such conditions are reduced.

Final Thoughts:

Water in the bilge should be avoided as much as possible.

The best way to go about this is by doing periodic checks. Modern-day boat manufactures are constantly looking for innovative ways to ensure minimal water stays in the bilge.

However, you will need to perform spot checks, depending on how frequently you take out your boat.

Keep in mind that a leak may not be the only cause of water getting in the bilge. Melting ice, wave sprays, rough seas, and rain are just a few of the reasons water gets into the bilge.

If you find water in the bilge, you should remove as much of it as possible.

If you do not know where to start, use the above information as a guide, or get professional assistance.

References:

en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Bilge&action=edit&section=1

boatus.org/clean-boating/maintenance/bilge-care/

aridbilgesystems.com/blogs/guide-to-bilge-water/

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What is the first thing you should do if your boat starts taking on water?

If you get on a boat, safety has to be at the top of your priority list. Even though you might not think an emergency will happen, your boat could develop a maintenance issue or hit something when you least expect it. This could cause your boat to start taking on water. What should you do next?

Get the Life Jackets and Life Preservers Out

If your boat begins to take on water, you need to get your life jackets and life preservers out. Make sure everyone has a flotation device. Even though you might not necessarily need to leave the boat, you never know if the rate of water accumulation will increase, causing you to have to jump overboard.

Call the Coast Guard

Once you have your emergency equipment out, call the Coast Guard. Give them a description of what happened. The Coast Guard will also ask you for your location so that they can come and help you address the issue or rescue you. The Coast Guard may also give you instructions on what to do next, so make sure to follow them.

Identify the Leak and Try To Slow the Flow

While someone on the boat is talking to the Coast Guard, you should try to figure out where the leak came from so you can share the information with the Coast Guard. You may have emergency water pumps that can help you pump the water out of the boat. If so, put them to use. If you are unsure of how to use them, talk to the Coast Guard representative on the other end of the phone. These boating tips should help you if your boat starts to take on water.

Next, read another interesting article.

Check out this page for more info.

Emergency Protocols: What to Do if Your Boat Starts Taking on Water

Sailing or cruising on water can be an exhilarating experience, blending adventure with the tranquility of the seas. However, watercraft owners and enthusiasts must always be prepared for emergencies. A common yet critical situation is when your boat starts taking on water. Knowing the first thing you should do if your boat starts taking on water can be the difference between a minor inconvenience and a major disaster.

Immediate Actions to Take

The moment you notice water ingress, the priority is to assess the situation’s severity quickly. Identifying the source of the leak is crucial. Whether it’s a small breach in the hull, a malfunctioning seal, or an issue with the boat’s plumbing system, pinpointing the origin will dictate your next steps. Utilizing bilge pumps or manual bailing methods to remove water is essential while you work on a more permanent solution.

Securing the Vessel and Passengers

Ensuring the safety of everyone on board is paramount. All passengers should be equipped with life jackets and moved to the safest part of the boat. In the event that the situation escalates, having a clear evacuation plan is critical. Knowing what is it called when you put a boat in the water and the procedures for safely disembarking can save lives.

Professional Assistance and Repair

Once immediate measures are in place, seeking professional help is the next step. If you’re close to shore or able to communicate via radio or phone, contacting the nearest maritime assistance service is advised. For long-term solutions and repairs, selecting a trusted service provider knowledgeable in how to get into a boat from the water and capable of addressing the specific needs of your vessel is important.

Maintenance and Prevention

Regular maintenance is key to preventing such emergencies. Regular checks for any signs of wear and tear, especially in the hull and below the waterline, can prevent water ingress. Familiarizing yourself with boat in the water maintenance practices is crucial for any boat owner.

Being Prepared

Part of being a responsible boat owner or operator is being prepared for any situation. This includes having a well-thought-out plan for when your boat starts taking on water . Whether it’s ensuring that your boat is equipped with the necessary safety equipment or knowing who to call for help, preparation can significantly mitigate the risks associated with water ingress.

In conclusion, the excitement of the open water comes with its share of responsibilities. Being informed about the proper protocols and having a plan in place for emergencies like taking on water are essential aspects of boating safety. By following these steps and ensuring your boat is well-maintained, you can enjoy the seas with confidence, knowing you’re prepared for any situation.

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7 Hidden Boat Maintenance Problems And How To Fix Them

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A few routine checks will go a long way to keeping you safe on the water. Here's what you could be missing.

Checking "under the hood" could save you from having a bad day on the water, or worse.

There's a lot of traditional land-based wisdom out there that just doesn't ring true for the maritime side of things. "Let sleeping dogs lie," "out of sight, out of mind," and "what you don't know can't hurt you" are all prime examples of advice not to heed when it comes to boat maintenance. This is a topic where an ounce of prevention is truly worth a pound of cure. In efforts to protect you from the old wives and their tales, here's a list of seven often-neglected items that can ruin your boating day quicker than "stepping on a crack can cause you to cry over spilled milk."

Stuffing Box

Where it is and what it does: Only boats with inboard engines have stuffing boxes. To locate yours, trace the propeller shaft from the transmission to the point where it exits the hull. That's where your stuffing box will be (unless you have a newer, dripless-style shaft seal). The purpose of the stuffing box is to allow the prop shaft to exit the hull while keeping water out.

An excessively leaking stuffing box will fling water all over the engine room and make engines, transmissions, and other components brown with corrosion.

The shaft is sealed by compressing packing against it, most often by using a hollow nut that screws onto the inboard side of the shaft tube or a tightening arrangement that uses a plate secured by nuts and studs on either side of the shaft. The more you tighten either type of gland, the more the packing material is compressed against the shaft. Most packing consists of a square plaited material and comes either as traditional greased (or waxed) flax, or a more modern version impregnated with Teflon.

What you should know: Water helps lubricate the packing material, so it's OK for a stuffing box to leak a few drips (three or four per minute) while the vessel is underway. More than that amount, say 10 drops per minute, or it drips while the shaft is not turning, indicates the need for maintenance. A leaking stuffing box can cause a number of issues, from corrosion caused by the spinning shaft slinging excess water all over your engine compartment to sinking, particularly if the boat is left unattended in the water for longer periods of time.

Packing material hardens over time as the lubricant dries out and gets worn away by shaft rotation, allowing water to pass and enter the vessel. When this happens, the first reaction is often to simply tighten the packing nut(s) to compress the packing material and stop or reduce the leak. This works to a point, but as the packing gets smaller it also gets harder. Keep compressing it and it will eventually score the propeller shaft, which will then have to be replaced before the stuffing box will seal properly.

How to Replace or Install a Dripless Shaft Seal/Stuffing Box

What you should do: You can avoid excessive leaking and shaft damage simply by replacing the packing on a regular basis. This bit of routine maintenance should only take about an hour, and it normally costs less for materials than you'd spend on a mocha-frappu-latte-whatever and a free-range muffin. How often you repack depends on the number of hours your boat is used. As it requires the boat to be out of the water, many owners simply repack the stuffing box as part of their annual haulout or spring commissioning routine.

Anchor Rode

Where it is and what it does: While the anchor typically enjoys a place of prominence at the bow, the anchor rode itself is relegated to the dark, dank recesses of the anchor locker. In a nutshell, its purpose is connecting the boat to the anchor. The anchor rode not only has to be strong but also possess at least some degree of stretchiness to absorb the effects of wind and waves. This helps prevent surge damage to the attachment point on the boat while reducing the chance an anchor will be ripped free from the bottom when it's needed the most.

You may need to rely on your anchor in an emergency. If your chain-to-anchor line looks like this, it’s probably time to buy a new rode and correctly splice it to the chain.

What you should know: Most boats use a combination rode, which is simply a rope rode with a short length of chain between it and the anchor. You can attach your rope rode directly to the anchor, but it's not recommended. That length of chain protects the rope portion of the rode from chafe while adding weight, which increases horizontal pull and helps the anchor to remain set. Three-stand nylon is the most common type of line used. It's strong and provides more elasticity than braided line. It's also more easily spliced and cheaper.

Add Anchor Chain for Better Holding + Seizing or Mousing the Shackle

What you should do: Your anchoring system is only as strong as its weakest component, which includes not only the rode, but also shackles, splices, chains, mooring bitts, cleats — in short, any gear used to secure your boat while at anchor. Proper maintenance includes inspection of these as well as pulling the rode from the anchor locker and laying it out for thorough examination at least annually. Check rope rodes for issues such as wear, cut strands, aging, discoloration, and hard spots (due to heat generated friction caused by placing a kinked line under load). Chafe is a rope rode's worst enemy, so you'll also want to check hawseholes, chocks, cleats, windlasses, and other areas of potential chafe for burrs, sharp edges, protruding hardware, or anything else that can cause rode damage.

Outdrive Bellows

Where it is and what it does: Outdrives have flexible gaskets or rubber "boots" called bellows. Similar in appearance to an accordion, they seal out water around the exhaust, universal joint, and shift cable while allowing the drive itself to pivot and tilt while underway.

What you should know: Outdrive bellows can dry out and fail due to a number of reasons, from heat, extreme weather, and age. They can also be cut or torn due to marine growth such as barnacles, mussels, and other critters. Cracks or splits often occur inside the folds of the bellows. These can be difficult to see unless the drive is raised or tilted to the left or right (depending on the type and location) so that the bellows can be fully extended for inspection. A damaged bellows can cause damage to output shafts and gimbal bearings (due to water-induced corrosion) and can even lead to sinking in some cases.

Outdrive bellows can deteriorate and fail over time due to age, exposure to ultraviolet light, or physical damage caused by hard marine growth. This exposes the outdrive to water damage and may even allow water to enter the vessel.

What you should do: Inspect all waterproof grommets and bellows for tears, cracks, dry rot, and other damage, at intervals recommended by the manufacturer as part of your routine maintenance schedule. Inspection timeframes may vary among manufacturers, but twice yearly (at the beginning and end of the boating season) is a good start. You'll also want to follow the manufacturer's recommended replacement schedule for your bellows (regardless of appearance) to head off any failure-related issues before they occur.

Fuel Tank Fill Hose

Where it is and what it does: Fill hoses are attached to the underside of the fuel fill deck fitting, connecting it to your fuel tank.

What you should know: All hoses have a limited lifespan, and the fuel fill hose is no exception. Recommended replacement timeframes will vary among fuel hose manufacturers, but some call for replacement as often as every five years. ABYC (American Boat and Yacht Council) standards also call for flexible fuel fill hoses to be double clamped at each end with marine-grade stainless steel clamps and to be marked on the outermost cover with the manufacturer's name or trademark, year of manufacture, and application.

In many cases, fuel fill hoses need to be replaced every five years or so. This one is well past its useful life and is allowing fuel to leak into the bilge — an extreme fire hazard.

What you should do: Access and inspect fuel tank fill hoses for leaks and deterioration as part of your vessel's routine maintenance program. Check that each end of the hose is properly clamped and that the clamps themselves are tight and free from corrosion. Replace older hoses (regardless of appearance) as per the manufacturer's recommendations.

Deck Coring

Where it is and what it does: Most fiberglass boats have cored decks, a construction method where a core material (marine plywood, end grain balsa, foam, or other material) is epoxied to/sandwiched between two layers of fiberglass. Due to the "I-beam" effect, cored construction is lighter and stronger than solid fiberglass of a similar thickness.

What you should know: Preventing moisture from entering a cored deck is crucial to maintaining its strength and integrity. Unless the deck has been damaged in some way, water intrusion is normally by leaking at deck-mounted hardware and fittings, such as cleats, fuel fills, or bow pulpit or stanchion mounts. Leaks into the coring are typically caused by a combination of failed (or lack of) caulking during hardware installation and improperly sealing exposed coring after drilling hardware mounting holes.

The coring in the deck around this hawse­hole installation wasn’t properly sealed, and you can see signs of deck rot (shadowy areas) around it from water entering.

Depending on the core material, water entry into the coring can quickly lead to rot and delamination or separation of the coring from the fiberglass. Classic signs include decks that have a spongy feel when walked on or that ooze water from deck fittings.

What you should do: A good start is to remove and rebed (caulk) deck hardware every seven to 10 years as a routine maintenance item. Follow recommended methods. Another is to follow the cored deck Golden Rule: Seal the exposed edge of the coring with marine-grade epoxy when drilling and mounting hardware. If you're able to de-core the area around these holes, you can fill them with thickened epoxy and (once cured) drill through the "plug" of epoxy without fear of moisture entering the coring.

Electric Bilge Pump

Where it is and what it does: Bilge pumps are typically located at the lowest portion of your bilge, which makes sense as that's where any water that enters the hull would naturally gravitate. If you have multiple bilge compartments or isolated sections, you'll likely have more than one bilge pump. A bilge pump's primary job is clearing incidental water from the bilges, such as packing gland drips, rainwater, and other sources. While they can provide extra time to do stuff when taking on serious water (such as putting on life jackets or making mayday calls) don't confuse your bilge pump with an emergency pump, which provides much greater dewatering capacity.

Damage like this is most often caused by winter freezing. A cracked case can be hard to spot but has rendered this pump useless.

What you should know: Just because a bilge pump is rated to pump a certain amount of water, say 500 gallons per hour, that doesn't mean it actually will. While testers in the lab may be able to squeeze 500 gph from a pump without a discharge hose and under perfect conditions, a number of constraints that make doing so in the real-world different story. One crucial factor that contributes to this reduced output is called "static head" — the vertical distance bilge water has to be pumped before it can be pumped out. Just 2 feet of static head can reduce the output of a 500 gph pump by half, while 15 to 20 feet might neutralize the pump entirely.

What you should do: Test and verify operation of all bilge pumps at regular intervals (preferably every time you go out, but quarterly or semiannually at a minimum). Do this particularly if the vessel is kept in a slip. Testing should verify that water is being pumped overboard, rather than simply switching on the pump and listening for motor operation.

The best way to keep your bilge pumps working is to conduct routine maintenance before problems occur. The corrosive environment of the bilge is a harsh place for all things electric, so check all wires and connectors for corrosion, and use only marine-grade heat shrink-style connectors (no wire nuts or electrical tape joints). Pump disassembly for maintenance is normally straightforward, however some are more complex than others, so be sure to read all instructions carefully to avoid assembly mistakes.

Gasoline Engine Compartment Ventilation Ducting

Where it is and what it does: Located in the engine compartment, ducting provides the means of bringing fresh air into the engine compartment and evacuating any gasoline fumes to the exterior of the vessel.

If bilge blower ducting pipework is damaged, loose, or missing, it will not suck explosive vapors from the engine compartment.

What you should know: Gasoline fumes are highly volatile and a leading cause of marine-related explosions and fires. If your boat has an inboard gasoline engine, proper ventilation of the compartment is crucial, both from a safety and legal standpoint. Federal law stipulates the use of a mechanical ventilation system (i.e., one utilizing a blower) for all non-open gasoline-powered boats built after 1981.

What you should do: Inspect the ducting regularly for splits, tears, blockages, crush points, and loose connections. Ensure the air intake ductwork is permanently secured to a point at least midway to the bilge or below the engine carburetor and that the exhaust ductwork end is permanently secured in the lower one-third of the compartment as far as practicable below the engines but above the normal accumulation of bilge water. Ducting installation must also be self-draining in the event water enters the ducting.

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Frank Lanier

Contributing Editor, BoatUS Magazine

Capt. Frank Lanier is a SAMS-accredited marine surveyor with over 40 years of experience in the marine and diving industries. He’s an author, public speaker, and multiple award-winning journalist whose articles on boat maintenance, repair, and seamanship appear regularly in numerous marine publications worldwide. Contact him via his YouTube channel “Everything Boats with Capt. Frank Lanier” or at captfklanier.com.

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• Construction
• Optimisations
• Performance
• Equipment care
• Provisioning
• Keeping afloat
• Precautions

What to do if you are taking on water and potentially sinking

What is the issue, why address this, how to address this.

• • Check for any cracking in the hull.
• • Inspect your sterndrive gland or bellows annually.
• • Check your stuffing box every time you visit the boat. Stuffing boxes are one of the few thru-hull fittings designed to allow some water into the boat, at least when the motor's in use. But this can get out of hand. Adjust it so that there are no leaks when engine off and about 2-3 drops per minute when the shaft is turning. Repack the stuffing seasonally.
• • Replace your impeller every second service.
• • Systematically check all the vessel's hull penetration fittings such as plumbing seacocks, log and echo sounder transducers, engine inlets & outlets, propeller shaft etc.
• • Make certain that all of the fittings are marine-grade parts and in good condition. Cocks are only rated for five years so if there is any concern regarding a seacock, or there is some indications of fatigue or corrosion, replace it immediately with proper DZR or bronze.
• • If you see dampness around a transducer, use epoxy temporarily fix it. Unfortunately, water may have intruded into the hull itself, resulting in saturation or de-lamination. It is advisable to haul the boat and deal with the leak as soon as possible.
• • Check that cockpit drain pipes are in good order, functioning and inspect all the plumbing to make sure water cannot drain into the boat.
• • Wooden plugs or bungs : All vessels should have ample wooden bungs or plugs that can be used to stop leaks. They offer a simple, inexpensive and effective solution to a potentially disastrous problem. Just be aware that wooden plugs cannot be expected to make a watertight fit, but even putting a single plug in a hole should reduce the flooding to a leak that should allow an electric bilge pump to gain ground on the flooding. Plugs will always work best if you wrap a rag around them before insertion. The cloth tends to keep the plug in place and fills some of the gaps between the plug and the edges of the hole. Wooden bungs are so inexpensive that each through-hull fitting should have an appropriately sized plug tied off to fittings and ready to deploy. Check the condition of the plugs when inspecting the seacocks as they can swell or split if left in damp conditions for long periods. A central reserve of additional wooden bungs and some hi-tech form-fitting emergency plugs should be stored in a convenient dry locker.

• • Hi-tech form-fitting emergency plugs : In addition to the softwood bungs it is important to have some hi-tech form-fitting emergency plugs, such as Forespar’s Sta-Plug bungs. Although much more expensive than wooden plugs the hi-tech bungs are able to conform to the shape of the hole enabling it to more fully seal around the edges and hold the plug more securely in place. They may thereby be used to fill irregular shapes of hull impact breaches are more reliable in through-hull failures.
• • Mouldable polymer : A play-doh like product called 'Stay Afloat' is a simple and versatile material intended to be used as an instant leak plug and sealant to stop or slow water leaks in boats. Used as is it requires no mixing, measuring or curing and is easily moulded and applied, by hand, into any shape that the hole happens to be.
• • 2-3 mm plywood boards, some aluminium and plastic : Carry 4 or 5 pieces of 3mm plywood cut in several sizes, like 30 cm square. Strips of aluminium or plastic are also useful. You can make these yourself to whatever size you think are appropriate and have them ready for an emergency. Carry a saw and hacksaw will enable you to tailor them to fit up against bulkheads.

• • Epoxy emergency repair kit : Have an underwater repair kit with a two-pack epoxy bonding system promising rapid cure aboard. An emergency repair kit more elegant short-term repairs can be made if necessary. There are several emergency hull repair kits available on the market to help affect a semi-permanent repair. Epoxy kits like these are not your first line of defence. They are used after the flooding is stopped, the boat is bailed, and you need a more permanent patch to get you to your safe haven.

• • Stop : If sailing heave-to immediately, as the damage is likely to be on the leeward side. If you are motoring, trim the boat as then the chances are the damage will be on the forward part of the boat near the waterline.

• • Find the hole : Now you need to find whatever is causing the leak. Pull up the sole boards in the main fore-and-aft passage to expose the length of the bilge and check and empty the lockers until you find the hole.
• • Damage control : Once it is found jam whatever you have to hand over the opening to staunch the gap: towels, cushions, clothing or even a sail, anything that could slow the sinking down. A pillow or a cushion held in place by hand or foot can greatly reduce the flow of water. If you can brace the pillow in place this will provide you with the ability to start working on a better solution. Don't worry about the first solution holding, you are still buying time at this stage so you can properly assess the situation and plan a better repair later.
• • Externally patch If you can’t get at the hole from below decks try to get a collision mat, or if you have not got one a sail, and place it over the hull externally. You will have no choice but to get this right, and it is possible.
• • A more durable repair : Once you have the flooding under control, and you're on top of the water ingress then, you have time to think about the wider situation. Can you make way to a safe haven with the current set-up or do you need to rig a more solid repair? If you can make it with what you have already put in place simply secure it. If not this is the time to get the brace out and start screwing plywood boards on and/or use emergency epoxy solutions. Remember these repairs don't have to be pretty, they just have to stop the water, or at least reduce the flow rate until you get the boat out of the water. It is always advisable to avoid a repair that involves a crew member going into the water because it's too easy to drop tools and it's just asking for a compounding problem. But if the situation lends itself a bolt through the middle of a strongback on the outside of the hull passed through to a section of timber inside will provide a highly durable solution. Particularly so if a rubber matt is used to helping create a tight seal. This will only work if it is safe to go over the side of the boat. It is a solution best called upon when conditions lend themselves to it, the boat is not in jeopardy and you can make a plan that has prioritised the safety of the person going over the side. It cannot be carried out in the heat of the moment. If its too rough or dangerous a way to still plug a leak from the outside, without having to go over the side, is to push something that will float out through the hole with a line attached. Then grab the floating object, or use a boat hook to snag it. With the line in hand, you can pull back in from the outside, or through the hole, whatever is needed. It is essential that someone is doing whatever it takes to staunch the in-flood while things are being put together and quickly passed through. Holes above the waterline should not be overlooked, they may not appear immediately dangerous, but as the boat rolls or settles, they could become submerged and provide a new source of in flooding.
• • Keep an eye on it : Once you get the boat moving again, check your temporary repair regularly. Have everything you need ready to hand in case the patch fails and you have to do it all over again. Most temporary fixes will hold at sailboat speeds. With the extra drag from your patch, you won't be going very fast anyway.
• • Haul out as soon as possible : Regardless of how far offshore you are, start heading back to land. Go to the nearest safe haven that can handle your vessel and haul out or dry out alongside and attend to a more durable repair as soon as possible.

• • Has a water tank burst : Check that the water is salty and that it has not caused by a large freshwater tank failure so this may be eliminated.
• • Check the through-hull fittings : Systematically check through all the below-waterline hull penetrations, seacocks, log and echo sounder transducer fittings, engine inlets & outlets, propeller shaft hoses and hose clamps inside the boat. Ideally starting with the largest first. Some may be difficult to reach but you have to get to them all until you find the source.
• (i) The ball valve breaks when someone is operating it or knocked it accidentally. This would be the best situation as the source of the problem will be detected immediately.
• (ii) A corroded pipe shears off at the hull, leaving nothing more than a hole through the hull.
• (iii) The ball valve breaks off leaving just the through-hull fitting.
• (iv) The hose degrades and/or comes off the tailpipe above the ball valve.
• ☐ Transducers and sensors: Log and echo sounder transducers and sensors fittings can fail too. These penetrate the hull well below the waterline, and unlike most below waterline fittings, they do not have a seacock. Any sort of a failure in these will bring water into the boat.
• ☐ Propeller shaft: Check that the normal one to two drips a second has not turned into a stream. Adjust the stuffing box so that there are no leaks. Check that it is still there and has not pulled free out of the boat leaving a through-hole. Any sudden loss of power in reverse will precede this but propeller shafts often come free of its mount and fall out.
• ☐ Check the engine exhaust hose: If you have been motoring and the impeller gave way the engine will overheat and its hot gases can melt the engines raw-water hose. This opens the closed loop and allows water to enter the boat.
• • Stopping the flow : When the culprit is found your immediate reaction will be to cover the aperture with your hand which will help. Hopefully, a bung will have been positioned close to hand that can be substituted quickly or a crew member can run and find one. Failing that, jam whatever you have to hand over the opening to staunch the gap, as above.

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Help! My boat is taking on water

A sinking boat is every boater’s nightmare. Although prevention and preparedness are key to keeping your boat afloat after taking on water, you should have an abandon ship kit, or ditch bag , at the ready. At minimum, the kit should contain a handheld VHF radio, GPS, signaling devices, drinking water and rations.

Water gets into boats from holes below the waterline and swamping. You can prevent swamping, where water comes in over the side or stern, by not overloading the boat and by keeping the bow pointed into the waves.

What to do when your boat is taking on water

• Make sure everyone is wearing a life jacket.
• Request assistance from the Coast Guard or other authorities.
• Ensure that your bilge pumps are working.
• Then, take action to remove the accumulating water.

Bilge pumps

Too often, skippers and crew get so busy trying to fix the situation that they forget to check the bilge pumps and call for help until the boat begins to sink.

Most bilge pumps can operate at 400 to 2,000 gallons per hour. Using an engine water pump rigged as an emergency bilge pump, you can move 2,000 to 4,000 gph. The Coast Guard can deliver high-capacity pumps by boat or airdrop in an emergency.

Scuppers drain water from a boat’s cockpit or deck. Always make sure scuppers are clear of debris. On small boats, rain, spray, wave action, and failed bait wells and holding tanks can cause water to collect on deck. If this water doesn’t drain down into the hull where the bilge pumps are located, you must bail the boat using hand pumps, buckets or anything else that holds water. If enough water collects on deck, the scuppers can become submerged and will need to be plugged to prevent more water from entering.

When to abandon ship

Abandoning ship should be a last resort. If your boat is rapidly sinking, it might be time to abandon your vessel.

• Make sure you and your crew are wearing your life jackets.
• Place a distress call on your VHF radio, and use any visual distress signals you have. (Save at least one flare for when you actually see a potential rescuer.)
• Launch your life raft and board it from your boat with your ditch bag and any other supplies.
• If you don’t have a life raft or any other means of support, then you may have to tread water or simply float until help arrives. In cold water, you should float, huddled together if possible, rather than tread water to reduce the possibility of hypothermia .

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Taking On water

• Thread starter SueAndScott
• Start date Jul 26, 2022
• Hunter Owner Forums
• Ask A Hunter Owner

SueAndScott

My Hunter 22 is taking on water. I think it is coming from around the drop keel. It seems worst when I heel the boat to starboard. I am trying to figure out how to remove the ballast weights to check for leaks around the pivot. Any help would be great  

Crazy Dave Condon

I have seen bubble gum used as a gasket but have seen a boat sink too @rgranger gives good advice. Keep us two posted.  

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Seeing Water In The Bilge? 14 Reasons Why & Easy Fixes

Generally, you shouldn’t see water inside the boat’s bilge that often. However, if you often see water in the bilge, something in the boat needs to be fixed. We will now see the main reasons why you will get water in the bilge.

Water gets collected in the bilge either due to loose screws, damaged bellows (on sterndrives), loose hose connections, loose rub rail, livewells, leaks on the hull, faulty seacock/thru-hull, loose drain holes/plugs, leak in a cooling system, bad seals on the prop shaft, loose speedometer pickup hose.

Those are the most common places to look after if you see water in the bilge quite often. Even if you have an automatic bilge pump, you should not be expected to take care of a problem like this. So, even if you see small quantities of water inside the bilge area or engine compartment or elsewhere on the boat, try to address it quickly.

First, here’s a small table showing the likely cause of the leak, depending on the boat’s state, so that sometimes , you can narrow it down quickly rather than checking all those 14 reasons one by one.

If the boat sits idle and turned off in the waters, a loose rub rail or cooling system will not take any water, but any loose thru-hulls, hoses, bad seals like bellows on sterndrive can take water easily.

So, those are just likely causes how a boat can take water , but sometimes they may be wrong. That being said, we will now see those in a detailed way.

1. Loose Screws

• You might not have anticipated it, but even the loose screws on the boat hull (if any) can take some water. Screws that are three to five turns lose can take more significant quantities of water if the vessel is left idle in the water for a long period.
• Sometimes, just tightening the screws on the hull is not an adequate repair. You have to ensure that the water is not coming out of that screw. Even screwing holes for depth-finder transducers on the boat also can take on water if those screws aren’t tight enough.

Tip – 1 If you see water in the bilge only while running, then it is more likely (but not always) to deal with a rub rail seal between the deck and the hull.

2. Damaged Bellows (On Stern Drives)

• If you have a sterndrive, the smart move would be to start inspecting the issue from the engine. Many stern drives have flexible gaskets, called “bellows,” that seal the water out where the universal joint, shift cable, and exhaust run between the boat and drive.
• Their flexibility allows the drive to trim and turn while underway, but they can dry out and crack due to heat, harsh weather, or age. You can visually tell whether the bellow is in good condition or not. If you see any visible cracks on the bellow, replace it.
• Even if you see any slime (algae) around it, it implies some water that is already present inside the vessel is leaking through it. But, of course, if you keep the boat outside dry, then only you can see the slime because if the bellows are damaged, water will come through the damaged bellow and can become wet.

3. Loose Hose Connections

• Hoses are another important thing to check if you see water in the bilge area. Thoroughly inspect all hoses and fittings first. Plastic hoses or couplers, or fittings all can degrade or crack or loosen over time and are very common.
• Again a physical inspection is sufficient if they are located outside or close without further ripping of the boat. Even speedometer pickup hose coming loose from the back of the speedometer will take the water. But, it only leaks when the boat is moving fast. So, check all the hoses.

Related Post – Can A Boat Sink From Rain? Check this article to know the main reasons for how a boat can sink from rain and some essential prevention measurements to take while keeping the boat in the water during rains.

4. Loose Rub Rail (Hull Cap Separation)

• Suppose you see the water getting into your bilge only while underway; a loose rub rail could be the overall culprit. A rub rail hides the joint between a boat’s deck and hull. Since if you see water coming into the boat only while underway, it is a common place water gets forced into.
• Boatbuilders glue the deck to the hull, and often the adhesive there fails. If the glue loses its property, gaps will form between the deck and the hull. Water can easily enter through those gaps, especially while moving in the waters where water gets forced into.

Check this small and very helpful video by Danger Marine on finding a leak on the boat hull, narrowing down the problem.

5. Livewells On A Fishing Boat

• If you are using a fishing boat and often use Livewells on the boat, then it could be the culprit. At the top of the Livewell where it meets the deck is sometimes not sealed well, and water can run over the top and down into the bilge. Look inside Livewell at that seam.
• Also, a full Livewell while coming up on the plane will overflow into the bilge if not sealed at the top. And even if the Livewell is cracked or the drain plug is not there, some drain into the bilge. So, ensure the protection around the Livewells as well.

Related Post – Are Fishing Boats Worth The Investment? Check this article to know whether buying fishing boats are good or bad, along with their pros and cons in a detailed way.

6. Leaks On The Hull

• If the hull is damaged or has a hole inside the hull, the water flows into the boat, and sometimes even the bilge pump may not be sufficient enough to pump it out at the incoming phase.
• Inspect the hull entirely from the keel to the deck properly, and don’t miss out on any minute details. If you keep the boat in the water all the time, then you need to take it out of the water for inspection and put it on a trailer for better visualization.

Tip – 2 If you see water in the bilge while sitting idle, it is more likely (but not always) to deal with loose connections. It can be a loose hose, drain, seals, etc.

7. Faulty Seacock On Thru-hull Holes

• Thru hulls on the boat’s hull are small holes on the hull and can be used to expel wastewater, such as from a sink, to let seawater in, such as for engine cooling, or to allow placement of sensors such as depth finders. If the thru-hull is loose or cracked, it can send water in.
• Even if the seacock value around the thru-hull is not functioning, it won’t close the opening properly, thereby sending the water in. If the thru-hull is below or just above the waterline and it is damaged, all the water outside can easily get inside the boat, sinking the boat.
• Remove the boat out of the water and visually inspect the thru-hull holes. Check for any loose or broken or visually messed up thru-hulls that would be causing a leak.

8. Loose Drain Holes

• Drain holes on the boat are used to drain the water that comes into the boat. Boats with drains require a plug (known as a drain plug) for closing the drain. The drain helps boat owners to get as much water out of the boat after being out on an ocean or lake.
• The plug needs to be installed before the boat goes out on the waters to prevent more water from getting inside. If you keep them open while running on the waters, it can take more water if they are especially close to the waterline. So, often closing them is good.
• Remove the boat out of the water and visually inspect the drain hole. Check for any loose or broken, or visually messed up drains that would be causing a leak.

9. Leak In Cooling System

• Boat engines need water to cool down the engine by flowing inside it over the power and cylinder heads, absorbing the heat. Without the water, the engine overheats because the impeller melts down without water flowing through, resulting in not pumping the water inside the engine.
• Suppose there are any leaks inside the water-flowing tubes; it can sometimes result in water inside the boat bilge. So, you need to check all those connections as well. To check whether there is a problem with the tubes, connect the water hose to the engine and start the engine.
• Open the engine and inspect the leaks on the lines. If you see any water coming out of any lines, you found the issue and change those tubes. Otherwise, no need.

Related Post – Do Boat Engines Need water? Check this article to know more about how the boat engine cooling system works and why boat engines need water in a detailed way.

10. Bad Seals On Prop Shaft

• Have you ever wondered how you allow a 2-inch-diameter propeller shaft to penetrate through the bottom of your hull, give it enough freedom to spin up to 6,000 times a minute, yet not allow water to pass through the hole? The “seals” on the prop shaft will prevent the water from entering inside the boat through the prop shaft.
• These Prop shaft seals are similar to gaskets and made out of rubber. So, they can dry out and crack due to heat, harsh weather, or age. You can visually tell whether the seal is in good condition or not. If you see any visible cracks on the seal, replace it.

Tip – 3 If you are testing your boat to find out leaks, thoroughly close all the thru-hulls and drains and then take the boat out in the water to narrow down the leaks, finding the cause quickly.

11. Loose Speedometer Pickup Hose

• A speedometer on a boat works by using a pitometer. The pitometer works by comparing how fast your boat is going against the speed of the water you’re traveling on. This works by measuring the speed of water coming into a tube compared to air pressure to give an estimated speed figure.
• Speedometer pickup hose coming loose from the back of the speedometer will take the water. But, it only leaks when the boat is moving fast. So, you need to check the speedometer pickup hose as well.
• Faulty Exhaust System. Ever since water has been used to cool exhaust gases, there are many cases of engines flooding with water from the exhaust system ( source ).
• Waves hitting the boat and Rains.
• Damaged steering pin seals on both sides can let in a tiny amount of water. Usually, the Pins are made of steel and can rust, creating pitting and wearing the bushes, which in turn creates a leak. Interestingly this leak is extremely common on all outdrive boats.

Check this video on Finding a leak on the boat.

Final Tip – To find out the leak on the boat, take the boat out of the water (keep it on the trailer) and fill the bilge with water to find out the leak. But if the leaks are too high on the boat, this method may not work.

The Key Takeaways From The Post

Here are the main reasons why you will get water in the bilge.

• Loose Screws. Even screws that are three to five turns lose can take more significant quantities of water if the vessel is left idle in the water for a long period.
• Damaged Bellows (On Stern Drives). If you have a sterndrive, the smart move would be to start inspecting the issue from the engine. Since it is a gasket (made out of rubber), it can damage as it ages.
• Loose Hose Connections. Hoses are another important thing to check if you are often getting water in the bilge. Thoroughly inspect all hoses and fittings first.
• Loose Rub Rail (Hull Cap Separation). Suppose you see water coming into the boat only while underway; a loose rub rail could be the overall culprit.
• Livewells On A Fishing Boat. At the top of the Livewell where it meets the deck is sometimes not sealed well, and water can run over the top and down into the bilge.
• Leaks On The Hull. If the hull is damaged or has a hole inside the hull, the water flows into the boat.
• Faulty Seacock On The Thru-hull. If the thru-hull is loose or cracked, it can send water in.
• Loose Drain Holes / Plugs. Check for any loose or broken or visually messed up drains that would be causing a leak.
• Leak In Cooling System. Since boat engines need water to cool down the engine by flowing inside it over the power and cylinder heads, absorbing the heat. Suppose there are any leaks inside the water-flowing tubes; it can sometimes result in water inside the boat.
• Bad Seals On Prop Shaft. These Prop shaft seals are similar to gaskets and made out of rubber. So, they can dry out and crack due to heat, harsh weather, or age. You can visually tell whether the seal is in good condition or not.
• Loose Speedometer Pickup Hose. Speedometer pickup hose coming loose from the back of the speedometer will take the water.

My name is Mahidhar, and I am passionate about boating. Every day I learn some new things about boats and share them here on the site.

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What to Do When Your Boat is Sinking

• By Kevin Falvey
• Updated: November 7, 2012

It’s your worst nightmare. A fitting may have failed; perhaps you struck a deadhead; maybe you stuffed a wave, or chopped the throttles to avoid a collision, bringing aboard tons of green water. You are taking on water faster than the pumps can evacuate it. What do you do now?

Here are seven steps that form the basis of an action plan. They are ordered by priority, but if you have able and responsible crew that you trust, assign them to handle some of the tasks so things get done simultaneously. Time is of the essence.

Order crew to don life jackets. Also, grab the ditch bag that you assembled with key items like a personal locator beacon, waterproof handheld VHF and signal flares.

Make a mayday call. Hail the Coast Guard on VHF Channel 16, providing your location, the number of souls aboard and the nature of your distress. Wait 10 seconds for a reply before repeating.

Find the leak. If a hose has burst, you may be able to close its seacock. You can also jam wadded clothing into a rudder, prop-shaft hole or crack in the hull. Wedge the wad with whatever is available — knives, fishing rod butts, etc.

Use crash pumps. Inboard and sterndrive owners may be able to disconnect the engine’s raw-water intake hose and use the engine as a crash pump. Drop it in the bilge and get a crew member to monitor the water level: As it drops, throttle back so as not to run dry and overheat. Some boats are fitted with so-called “safety seacock” adaptors, like Groco’s SSC series ( groco.net ), that provide a valve enabling you to switch between engine intake and bilge at will.

Trim to slow the flow. If the leak is on the starboard side, shift crew and gear to port. Even if the hole doesn’t clear the water, moving it higher slows the flow.

Head for shore. Intentionally grounding on a bar or beach may be better than sinking, if you can avoid jagged rocks or high surf.

Stay with the boat. Many boats will float capsized and make a bigger target for a helicopter. Climb aboard to stave off exposure. According to 2011 U.S. Coast Guard accident statistics, 316 recreational boats capsized; 698 collided with fixed, floating or submerged objects; and 196 experienced hull failure. These resulted in 249 deaths. Have a plan in place.

Check out this video to learn how to stop your boat from sinking with bungs.

• More: Boating Safety , How-To , Seamanship

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Issues with Centerboard, get filled with water

• Add to quote

Hello there. I'm totally new in sailboat and this forum. Today had first run out in a lake with family. I have bought Galilee 15 year 1982 few weeks ago, and in general I like it, and condition is great(as I can judge for 1982 boat). We have spent about two hours on water and had no issues and had a lot of fun. After we docked, I have removed centerboard, and it was leaking plenty of water. I guess this is not good, and I need advice how to fixed. It has no big dents, but it looks split. I was thinking just use Insulating Foam Sealant and cover with one layer of Fiberglas and epoxy. Do i need to worry about other things of the centerboard? I'm totally new, so don't know much technical aspects of construction.  

Go to youtube and watch plenty of videos on how to fiberglass, using resin and cloth. Sorry, but that's the best advice I can give you without a huge post on the subject. It isn't hard or magic.  

• Let it dry out thoroughly hang in as warm/dry place as place as possible
• Open up crack to inspect
• If not too bad you can fill with resin and filler
• Reglass surface

Thanks to all suggestions. I'm good with Fiberglass/carbon/epoxy, so it's not a problem. I just wanted to know if this ok to fill empty space inside the centerboard with filling foam. i will try to inspect tomorrow and make more pics.  

Take the wooden cap off and inspect it inside. The top flanged area on those also takes a beating and can get soft. Fiberglass mat and fairing compound is the way to repair being careful to grind things down sufficiently so it will be smooth and still fit in the trunk afterwards. Those were made out of two parts that were clamshelled together with epoxy and mat along with a iron weight set in the bottom of the board before the wooden cover with the handle was bedded in caulking and screwed in place. I would not fill it completely with foam since it will be harder to tell if water got into it and make it more difficult to dry out. Since its a daggerboard it takes a big hit if you run aground as it won't just pop up like hinged centerboard. I don't know if its just my eyes however the pin holes in the trailing edge of the board appear to be missing. There is supposed to be a metal pin that goes through them and rests on the two stainless steel plates at the rear of the slot to adjust the draft of the board for running shallow. There are a few members here that have a Galilee 15.  

Thanks SeaStar58. I will check it more what is inside thru the crack. As for the holes, i'm not sure what they used for, but I have 3 holes right exactly where the crack is. I have added pictures, hope it more visible. I will try to sand it, fill it with epoxy resin, as much as I can inside without full opening it, and cover with layer of fiberglass and epoxy. I don't want to do all bunch of rebuilding, as i'm afraid if i unscrew the top handles, i will not screw it back that tight.  

There should be more than three holes and they are used to adjust the depth of the daggerboard for running more shallow. The Galilee draws about 5 inches of water with the daggerboard removed and about a foot or so with it in the shallowest pin hole of which there should be about 5. With the board fully down it draws 3.58 feet. Yours appears to have been grounded pretty hard judging by the chunk missing from the trailing edge of the board. There are cant strips inside the board on both the leading and trailing edge for reinforcement so if either of those seams is opening you need to get epoxy about and inch or so into the seam to reach that strip before clamping it all back together. My Galilee 15 saw some pretty rough use at a sailing club with a lot of groundings and even got blown around the yard a bit by a hurricane or two however the daggerboard despite all that never got grounded as hard as yours appears to have been. Where the daggerboard exits the trunk is a very high stress area and needs a very strong structural repair so it won't open up again. Also give the rear of the trunk opening where it exits the hull a good inspection as it also may require some grinding and reinforcing with some new mat along with some fairing. About 100 lbs of concrete is cast around the daggerboard trunk reinforcing it so it should not split the boat even in a hard grounding however it will mask any leak or seepage from damage to the fiberglass in that area since after its poured its encased in mat and sealed to the bottom of the hull and the upper portion of the daggerboard trunk. The benches are filled with flotation and the boat according to Delio is designed to sail albeit very poorly even if completely swamped. The outboard motor bracket along with the flotation built into the mast and boom is intended to keep the outboard from getting submerged even in the event of a knockdown so some thought was put into how the boat was laid out.  

Filling the inside with foam may be a good idea, but be careful that the foam doesn't expand & make the board too fat to fit in the slot. Same with fiberglassing the outside - the board still has to fit in the slot, so don't add too much material. Another caveat on foam - make sure it isn't water-absorbent. My father had a center console skiff that had poured-in foam all under the deck. Worked fine when it was new, but any water that leaked in as the years went by got soaked up into the foam and stayed there. It was like the stuff the florist uses to keep flower stems in place. We ended up having to rip out the deck and used a garden spade to dig out the sopping wet foam, fifteen or so pounds per shovelful. If water gets into your centerboard, either from being absorbed by foam or just on it's own, it can split the thing in two if it freezes.  

The bottom should be an iron casting that weighs about 20 or 30 lbs which makes up the last roughly 6 inches of the dagger board and provides a lot of stability to the boat since it hangs 3.58 feet below the waterline. The board should feel extremely bottom heavy when you pick it up. There should not be fiberglass covering the bottom of the casting but only where its joined to the board and then faired over to blend the joint just like the juncture of a lead or iron keel to the keel trunk. I like the West System Marine epoxy in the foil packs since I do not generally do very large repairs and you will only be breaking the seal on just the product which you are going to be using. The resin and hardener are in a divided foil packet so there is no measuring you just cut open both parts of the pouch, pour it into your mixing cup and gently stir it up. Resin once you break the factory seal starts to change and becomes more difficult to work with over the months it takes for it to eventually go bad. The casual user will often have a pint or quart of resin and hardener go bad before they get to use it. You will need to have the surfaces clean and after you rough them up you need to apply the resin immediately before oxidation, etc begins. If you prepare the surfaces for resin and get interrupted for more than a few minutes you need to give them a light sanding and wipe down with acetone just prior to applying resin and mat. You need to get below the gel coat and paint on the board in order to get a good physical bond to the roughed up surfaces. You will not get a chemical bond to the dagger boards existing fiberglass since its already fully set up. Remember to grind down enough without going though to allow for the thickness of at least two layers of mat and some faring compound or gelcoat putty to cover the mat. The mat is very critical where the chunk is missing from the back of dagger board where it hit the trunk when the boat was run aground.  

This is bottom of the board. It feels very heavy, and balance goes to the bottom. And sound full/solid when I knock it(don't know how to describe it) Also top of the board, right under the handle, feels empty, light and when I knock, it sounds like empty bucket. I guess all water goes there when it is in water.  

I am beginning to wonder if that is some home made replacement for a lost dagger board. Mine can't split on the bottom since its a solid piece of metal which makes the board very durable. If you scratch the gel coat/epoxy paint at the bottom you will expose the iron and it will rust stain but will not split. Is yours filled with cement or something instead of having the casting or did a previous owner just goop it all up with Bondo, fairing compound, etc covering up all the metal? A magnet should tell. The board is hollow from the bottom casting to the top and the top cap is sealed with marine caulking so water can't get in unless you break open some part of the board. I tie a rope from the handle to the mast just in case of a knock down so the board will not come fully out of the trunk and float away or sink. Whatever it is you need to open the top, dry it all out and fix it correctly.  

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• Boat Repair and Restoration
• Boat Restoration, Building, and Hull Repair

Boat taking on water- how to start fixing?

• Thread starter hitest1024
• Start date Sep 20, 2011
• Sep 20, 2011

OK, I have an 85 Bayliner Capri 1950, and I'm starting to be able to fix the problems that are just annoying, since I seem to have gotten all the ones that were stopping the boat. (Thanks to all on this forum who have helped.) This weekend's issue: When I'm cruising around the lake, it seems like the boat takes a lot of water on, and I have to bilge pretty frequently. It can sit overnight however, without taking on as much water, though I still wouldn't want to sit it for more than a day without bilging. My question is- how do I start looking for the leaks? The transom seal looks pretty good- it's an Inboard/Outboard (I think) stern drive. Any thoughts? Thanks much! Full disclosure: The one stupid thing I have done, and believe I have undone, is this: I was attaching plywood over the weak plywood deck, and a couple of the deck screws went through the hull. It took on a good bit of water when the holes were there (about 5 if I remember correctly.) But I went back, took the screws out, and patched the holes.  

Lieutenant Junior Grade

Re: Boat taking on water- how to start fixing? Do you still have plywood over the rotten deck? Looking for leaks is just that....ya just have to hunt around for them.  

proshadetree

Lieutenant commander.

Re: Boat taking on water- how to start fixing? I have found some by putting water in the bilge while on the trailer. Sitting level first then raise the nose up. Do not fill the thing up as it will leak out of the new cracks you just made.  

Supreme Mariner

Re: Boat taking on water- how to start fixing? ok....couple of things.......but first of all.....welcome to iboats. there are two types of stern drives for the bayliner.....one was a standard i/o with a drive hanging out the back...the other was called an L drive... we need pics to know which one. if you have a standard i/o....you are ok......if its an L drive......go buy insurance.....and burn the sucker.....oh....wait.....the cost of buying the insurance is more than the pay out......scrap that idea. if its an i/o....and a merc.......check the bellows both the shift (the little rubber boot thingy) and the main bellows......(the big round rubber tube) but chances are its in the shift boot. as far as the leaking when you are just sitting there with out crusing......there could be a number of things......but first things first....lets see the drive.  

• Sep 21, 2011

Re: Boat taking on water- how to start fixing? Thanks all... Re: OOPS- The engine in my boat is a VolvoPenta AQ125b, and the drive is a sterndrive 190(?)... I can't get pics right now though, it's out at the lake. Re: Cierra- yep, I took the carpet up, tacked on the new plywood, and then put the carpet back. But I think I got all the screw holes fixed (with auto body putty)... Re: Proshadetree- that is a great idea- I don't know why I didn't think of that...  

Senior Chief Petty Officer

Re: Boat taking on water- how to start fixing? Probably a 270 or 275 drive. Taking on more water when running than sitting I would look for a raw water leak, manifold to exhaust tube coupler, raw water pump, water lines or seals. Run it up to 2000 RPM in neutral and see where it's coming from. Post your results with pics over on the penta forum and you will get all the info you need.  

hitest1024 said: Thanks all... Re: OOPS- The engine in my boat is a VolvoPenta AQ125b, and the drive is a sterndrive 190(?)... I can't get pics right now though, it's out at the lake. Re: Cierra- yep, I took the carpet up, tacked on the new plywood, and then put the carpet back. But I think I got all the screw holes fixed (with auto body putty)... Re: Proshadetree- that is a great idea- I don't know why I didn't think of that... Click to expand...

Re: Boat taking on water- how to start fixing? Just some food for thought hitest.... I did exactly what you did with my first boat. Layed new plywood over the rotted old plywood. It lasted two years and was comletely rotted again. Rot will just "infect" the new wood and rot it out. Something to think about. Also, Bondo will fall out eventually.  

Re: Boat taking on water- how to start fixing? volvo will have a shift boot and bellows as well......check them......they are a primary source of leaks. the new ply over the old deck will condem your boat in 2 seasons.....better pull it up and the old one and fix it before you are doing a total gut.  

Re: Boat taking on water- how to start fixing? AQ drives don't have a shift bellows, the cable runs through a hose that has one end above the water line. There is however, a swaged clamp at the transom that can rust away and cause a leak. I suggested you post your leak questions in the penta forum so you wouldn't go chasing ghosts. Your engine is fresh water cooled and quite a bit different from the mercruiser set ups.  

Re: Boat taking on water- how to start fixing? Did it leak before you put the screws thru the hull?  

• Sep 22, 2011

Re: Boat taking on water- how to start fixing? produceguy- yep, it leaked before I put the screws through it- seems like it was about the same amount of water I get now. (It got a LOT of water the couple of times we took it out when the screws were through it.) And yep- I used bondo for the screwholes. Seems to have worked, though obviously I would have done it different if I did it over again. And yes, to everyone who is warning about the plywood- I assumed it was temporary- if I got two seasons that would be great for 30 some dollars worth of wood. I'm working on getting a covered place to store it, in which I could try to do the floor, and whatever is below it, right. But I bought the boat with a friend for around 2000, and we're both hesitant to put too much in it. (Also I got laid off in June!) I appreciate everyone's help and their thoughts- (and I know I'm an idiot for putting screws through the bottom! Just trying not to do the same kind of thing again..)  

Master Chief Petty Officer

Re: Boat taking on water- how to start fixing? Before putting the body filler on did you clean the area and sand it? Best thing to do when using this type of filler is do a good clean patch then paint over it to seal the repair. Also.. when checking for leaks don't forget to give the engine block a good looking over while running. One boat I acquired had a crack in the block that I didn't see until I was about knee deep in water... ended up putting in a rebuilt long block.  

• Sep 23, 2011

Re: Boat taking on water- how to start fixing? As requested- picture of the drive. Also, a picture of the bottom of the transom. Could this be the problem? View attachment 115310 View attachment 115311  

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• General Discussion

Taking on water

• Thread starter Thread starter Holly
• Start date Start date Jun 12, 2017

Active Member

• Jun 12, 2017

Jetboaters Fleet Admiral 2*

• Forgot the drain plug (you said this wasn't the case)
• Clean out plug blown-and then lodged in the access tube, blowing it off the bottom connection and flooding the boat
• Engine cooling hose leaking
• Hull damage (hole in the hull from hitting something)

Bogged down. Never stopped. Yes water on top which usually happens a but not overflowing like they were yesterday. After I got all the water out checked 6-8 hours later no water.  

Jetboaters Fleet Admiral 1*

@Holly this has got to be the cleanout plugs not set in/sealed. So - the engines are running after you pulled the boat, right? Wow, that was close...  

Scottintexas

Jetboaters admiral.

water on top of your cleanout plugs is usually not an issue (on older boats and assuming the same with your model), Wouldn't unsealed cleanout plugs just send water out the over the cleanout hatch (unless the cleanout tube or tray is unsealed? Do you boat with your bilge pump always on? if so, did you notice it pumping? All that water in your engine compartment is SCARY! and I wouldn't take your boat out for a fun day again without figuring out what's going on, Do you know if that water in your engine compartment was hot or lake temperature? maybe run the engines with the hatch open to see if you notice water coming from a cooling line on the engine or rising up from the bottom,  

Welcome aboard! sorry we had to meet like this, Were you sucking things up (weeds, trash, etc..) that was causing you to stop and clean them or were you just notice water on top of the plugs and trying to get rid of it? Be sure to check out the FAQ tab at the top of the page for lots of great tips and fixes,  

Matt Phillips

Jetboaters captain.

That's a lotta water. Was your bilge pump on, or set to Auto. On my E-series, Auto is highlighted on Blue. On is highlighted in Green. While wake surfing/boarding, with that rear swim platform so low to the water, it's common to get water up on the upper-step and it will find it's way to the bilge. This past weekend, I noticed the bilge pump pumping just about every time we changed to a new person.  

It wasn't on until I discovered the water we were all on the platform then went straight to tubing. This is the only thing that makes sense. I guess I need to find where it's coming in and seal or just run with the bilge on when back there?  

Generally speaking, when the bilge pump is "on" it will cycle every 2-3 minutes and look for water. Once the pump notices resistance on the impeller (water) , it will then pump it out of the bilge until there is no more resistance on the impeller. This is thus the "automatic" function. The difference I noted this weekend on my first trip on an E-Series boat is there are now two settings on the bilge pump: Green = on (all the time); Blue = Auto as described above. As a general rule, you should always have your pump set to the Auto function so it is always looking for water/liquid in the bilge.  

Holly said: It wasn't on until I discovered the water we were all on the platform then went straight to tubing. This is the only thing that makes sense. I guess I need to find where it's coming in and seal or just run with the bilge on when back there? Click to expand...

islandstyle57

Jet boat addict.

Could this be a warranty issue?  

@Holly Did you have a bunch of people sitting on the stern to the point that the rub rail was in the water? If so, this might well be your problem. The rub rail joins the upper hull to the lower hull, and isn't always sealed well. If you were sitting back there with a bunch of people (and the bilge off), gallons of water would seep through the rub rail and pool in your bilge. Without the bilge running, then it never gets removed and builds up. Boat in Water = Bilge ALWAYS on! So you turned on the bilge, it pumped all the water out and the engines ran fine and you drove it more? I would check the oil in the engines just to be safe (and do it ASAP) - make sure it is engine oil color and not milky colored.  

Don't rely on the bilge. That much water in the engine bay looks pretty serious, I would determine and address the cause before much water time.  

I never had that much water in my engine bay even after repeatedly submarine-ing my boat. Something needs to be carefully addressed.  

Jetboaters Commander

repeatedly submarining lol? How did that happen, stuck on rough water? I feel like dealers need to do a better job, or yamaha has to do a better job of telling customers that you REALLY need to have the bilge on while the boat is in the water. I am actually surprised there isn't a sensor that detects the boat is in the water and turns the thing on, it's that important. Also, why isn't there a warning that you have THAT MUCH water in the engine bay? It can't be that hard to create.  

My first look at the TR1 motors (hope they're as waterproof as the MR1's)!  

Jet Boat Junkie

The engines bogged down because you starting sucking water into the intakes. A little bit of water will turn to steam in the intake and blow through the engine, but a bunch of steam / water will bog the engines down and kill them. I guarantee your air filters are soaking wet. There's something seriously wrong there. Take it to the dealer before you go back out. Also check that your plug has the rubber O-RING on it. That can also be a good source of a leak, but nothing that would cause flooding like that.  

• Jun 13, 2017

So went back to the lake today and had a mechanic look at it. Two loose bolts on the exhaust manifold caused this on a boat with less than 20hours wth.  

Glad you found it!  

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