model sailboat rigging

Perfecting Your Model’s Sails: The Art of Rigging | Seacraftclassics

• September 10, 2023
• Boats and ships

Mastering the Art of Rigging: Enhancing the Authenticity of Your Model’s Sails

When it comes to creating a realistic and authentic model of a sailboat, one of the most crucial aspects is perfecting the rigging, particularly the sails. The art of rigging involves setting up the sails in a way that accurately represents the real-life counterpart, capturing the essence and beauty of sailing. In this article, we will delve into the secrets and techniques of sail rigging that will elevate the realism of your model to new heights.

Unveiling the Secrets of Rigging: Techniques to Perfect Your Model’s Sail Setup

Rigging a sailboat model requires attention to detail and a deep understanding of the principles of sailing. Here are some techniques that will help you achieve impeccable sail rigging:

1. Research and Reference

Before starting the rigging process, it is essential to conduct thorough research on the specific sailboat model you are replicating. Study photographs, blueprints, and even real-life sailboats to understand the intricacies of the rigging. Pay close attention to the arrangement of the sails, the types of rigging lines used, and the tension applied to each line.

2. Use High-Quality Materials

Investing in high-quality rigging materials is crucial for achieving a realistic look and ensuring the longevity of your model. Opt for materials such as fine thread or fishing line for the rigging lines, and choose appropriate fabrics for the sails, such as cotton or silk. These materials will provide the necessary strength and flexibility to accurately represent the tension and shape of the sails.

3. Rigging Techniques

There are several rigging techniques that can enhance the authenticity of your model’s sails:

• Running Rigging: Use thin thread or fishing line to create the running rigging, such as halyards, sheets, and control lines. Ensure that the lines are properly tensioned and secured to the appropriate points on the mast, boom, and deck.
• Standing Rigging: The standing rigging, including shrouds and stays, provides the necessary support for the mast. Use fine thread or wire to create these lines, ensuring they are accurately positioned and tensioned to maintain the correct shape of the mast.
• Sail Attachment: Attach the sails to the mast and boom using small eyelets or hooks. Pay attention to the proper alignment and tension of the sails to achieve a realistic appearance.

Elevate Your Model’s Realism: Tips and Tricks for Achieving Impeccable Sail Rigging

Here are some additional tips and tricks that will take your sail rigging to the next level:

1. Weathering and Aging

To add a touch of realism to your model, consider weathering and aging the sails. Use diluted acrylic paints or fabric dyes to create subtle discolorations and stains that mimic the effects of sun, saltwater, and time. Be sure to apply these effects sparingly and strategically to maintain a natural appearance.

2. Scale Accuracy

Pay close attention to the scale accuracy of your model’s rigging. Ensure that the size and proportions of the rigging lines and hardware are appropriate for the scale of your model. This attention to detail will greatly enhance the overall realism of your sailboat replica.

3. Practice and Patience

Perfecting the art of rigging takes practice and patience. Don’t be discouraged if your first attempts are not flawless. Take the time to learn from your mistakes, refine your techniques, and experiment with different approaches. With each model you build, your skills will improve, and your sail rigging will become more refined.

Mastering the art of rigging is essential for creating a realistic and authentic model of a sailboat. By conducting thorough research, using high-quality materials, and employing the right techniques, you can achieve impeccable sail rigging. Additionally, incorporating weathering and aging effects, ensuring scale accuracy, and practicing patience will elevate the realism of your model’s sails even further. So, set sail on your next model-building adventure and let your rigging skills shine!

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Rigging - how to / tips

By Mario Pires December 4, 2022 in Masting, rigging and sails

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Mario pires.

I have recently finished my first model, which had a simple rigging (Zulu fishing boat). Aside form the technicalities of rigging it correctly it was quite a challenge to pull strings through very small holes, in fact it seemed quite impossible and I ended it up by enlarging the holes in blocks f.i. to be able to make it. Wonder if there are any practical ideas on this.

• mtaylor and thibaultron

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Sometimes I cover about 1/4” of the end of a line with super glue and, when the glue dries, cut the tip at an angle to yield a sharp point. Usually I can then get the stiff, pointed tip through an appropriately sized hole.  If the tip bends or frays, I re-cut a new point a little ways back and try again.

• Ryland Craze , JpR62 , thibaultron and 1 other

Past projects:  Galway hooker; Durham boat; Mayflower shallop; Irish seagoing currach; James Caird; Cornish fishing lugger; Pitcairn Island longboat; Bounty launch.

Peace on Earth begins within you.

nice idea, thanks James

• thibaultron and mtaylor

Hole size is proportional to block size so if you're having trouble perhaps the blocks are too small or, more likely, the rope is too big. In any case for rigging one must have a set of miniature reamers such as:

https://www.amazon.com/Model-Craft-PBR2194-Cutting-0-6-2-0mm/dp/B001JJZ76I/ref=asc_df_B001JJZ76I/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=598232118681&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1012005693499827230&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1018605&hvtargid=pla-422910410143&psc=1

As well, using CA on the final 1/2" of the line and pointing it after dry will allow you to get the rope started as James has stated above.

• mtaylor , thibaultron , JpR62 and 2 others

Greg website Admiralty Models moderator Echo Cross-section build Admiralty Models Cross-section Build Finished build Pegasus, 1776, cross-section Current build Speedwell, 1752

Try using a needle threader which are easy to find at brick-and-mortar stores such as hobby shops, fabric stores or online. They are sold in packs. They are cheap which is good as I break them frequently.

• thibaultron , mtaylor and HardeeHarHar

Completed scratch build: The armed brig "Badger" 1777

Current scratch build: The 36 gun frigate "Unite" 1796

Completed kits: Mamoli "Alert", Caldercraft "Sherbourne"

And these are the best needle threaders:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001DS1RA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Roger Pellett

Our hobby involves handling tiny parts.  As we get older, this gets harder as our hands get less steady and, at least in my case we loose feeling in our finger tips.  Rigging blocks top the list of this as sometimes handling them is like trying to grip a watermelon seed.

To help me, and to minimize things lost to the Floor Gods, I have learned to minimize the number of “moving parts.”  This means whenever possible securing parts, however small, in some sort of vise or fixture.  The last time that I did rigging, I built a small simple rigging vise that gripped a block in an alligator clip.  The head of the vise that held the block was a piece of aluminum  that slid up and down on a steel rod, and was secured by a set screw.  This allowed the block to be fixed at eye level, with me seated.  A purchased fly tying vise would have worked too.

Wherever possible, I clamped the block in the alligator clip, brushed a tiny dab of clear fingernail polish on the end of the line, and poked it through the hole in the block.  Sometimes it helps to trim the end of the stiffened line with a pair of SHARP scissors to get rid of loose threads that might interfere with threading the block.  When I finished the model I put the scissors away until the next rigging job.

• mtaylor , Ryland Craze and thibaultron

I definitely agree with Roger on the "lost to the Floor Gods" comment! My workspace is on a tile floor, so when I drop a block or a deadeye, it bounces to... who knows where?!?!  So, I have employed the same technique as Roger, securing whatever I am trying to thread/rig in my helping hands workstation with rubber alligator clips.  Keeps things quite steady!

And, I also use the CA technique both James and Greg mentioned to stiffen the line being threaded.  Although I do use a needle threader for some applications, i.e. pulling line in order to serve shrouds, I would think that it might be difficult to use a needle threader to pull through block or deadeye holes, as you'd be doubling the thickness being pulled?  

• mtaylor , thibaultron and Ryland Craze

Current Projects:                                                     Completed Projects:                                                                 Waiting for Shipyard Clearance:

Bluenose 1921 1:64 - Model Shipways                     Norwegian Sailing Pram 1:12 - Model Shipways                     Yacht America Schooner 1851 1:64 - Model Shipways

                                                                                       Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack 1:24 - Model Shipways         RMS Titanic 1:300 - OcCre   (Couldn't help myself when it was on sale)

                                                                                      H.M. Schooner Ballahoo 1:64 - Caldercraft                              USS Constitution  1:76 - Model Shipways

                                                                                                                                                                                               Santa Maria Caravelle 1:48 - Ships of Pavel Nikitin

The next time you visit your friendly dentist ask him if he has any of those micro files they use on root canals.  They come to a needle point

and are about 2'' long, though and sharp, with differing diameters and are disposed of after a single use. Great for reaming holes in mimi Blocks,

and if you are  brave, they work in a Dremil tool chuck.

A further question is how best to run rigging lines thru blocks that are mounted on various locations on a model, deck, railing, mast fittings that are 

almost inaccessible? A timely question for my current stage of build.

Bridgman bob

• Ryland Craze , thibaultron and mtaylor

4 hours ago, barkeater said: Try using a needle threader which are easy to find at brick-and-mortar stores such as hobby shops, fabric stores or online. They are sold in packs. They are cheap which is good as I break them frequently. Richard

One issue to consider when using a needle threader is the thread is folded over when it is pulled through the hole in the block. This means that the hole must be large enough to accept twice the thread (rope) diameter.   As previously mentioned, if the hole is that big, it might mean that the block is too big or the rope too small or even both. I am assuming the block is of decent quality. Sometimes the hole needs to be cleaned up a bit  The CA glue on the tip works best for me.   😁

Attitude is the difference between ordeal and adventure.

Finished: Charles W. Morgan, scratch 1:96 https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30666-charles-w-morgan-1841-scratch-196-pob-by-toms10

Finished: HMS Leopard, scratch 1:85

https://modelshipworld.com/gallery/album/2403-hms-leopard-scale-185

Finished:   Constellation AL Kit, scale - 1:85

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/gallery/album/1383-constellation-al-185-by-tom-szabo/

If you can wait a few minutes for it to stiffen, PVA will also form a point on line.

• Bob Cleek , mtaylor and thibaultron

NRG member 50 years

Current:   

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842 Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

2 hours ago, bridgman said: The next time you visit your friendly dentist ask him if he has any of those micro files they use on root canals.  They come to a needle point and are about 2'' long, though and sharp, with differing diameters and are disposed of after a single use. Great for reaming holes in mimi Blocks, and if you are  brave, they work in a Dremil tool chuck. A further question is how best to run rigging lines thru blocks that are mounted on various locations on a model, deck, railing, mast fittings that are  almost inaccessible? A timely question for my current stage of build. Bridgman bob

One way to do this is to CA stiffen a much longer length of your line (1 to 2 inches or whatever is needed).  You can then get the line in to wherever the block is.  Of course this does waste a bit more line and if you are purchasing your line it is not cheap.

• Bob Cleek , thibaultron , mtaylor and 1 other

Laissez le bon temps rouler !  

Current Build:  Le Soleil Royal

Completed Build :  Amerigo Vespucci

A touch of CA on the end of the thread is definitely a good way to stiffen the line. Using hemostats and needle holders to handle the thread will be found a big help. Check out the many instructional videos on YouTube about surgical instrument suture tying. Doctors don't use their fingers to stitch you up. It's all about using the instruments. Learning a bit about how surgeons handle thread will give you a whole new perspective on model ship rigging.

For fine off-the-model rigging tasks like block stropping, I've also found the "QuadHands" line of tools much better than the old ball and clamp articulated "third hand" holding systems. "QuadHands" holders come in a variety of configurations and their alligator clips come with slip-on soft plastic sheathing tubes for the jaws, too.  ("QuadHands" is the original U.S. made quality version of this device. The internet is flooded with near-identical Chinese rip-offs. The real deal is just a few bucks more and, as always, you get what you pay for.  See video:   QuadHands® - Helping Hands Tool

• wool132 , smtm2013 , Dlowder and 6 others

One thing about using CA for this is to use the thinnest CA you can find.  I find that regular CA is sometimes to thick to go though the block hole.  I dip the thread in the CA and then run the glued end between my fingers to remove the excess.

• Ryland Craze , thibaultron , Bob Cleek and 1 other

Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build:                                                                                              Past Builds:   La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans  - ON HOLD            Tri ton Cross-Section    

  NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                             HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64                

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                           On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                      Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0  (Abandoned)           

I have some left over supplies of great boxwood blocks made by Lloyd Warner (unfortunately he doesn't make them anymore), which I am using for my French 74 gun ship model.  Some of them, especially the smallest ones (2 mm), have holes that are a bit too small for my ropes. I enlarge them by gently drilling them with an appropriate  drill bit held in the pin vise. The original hole will provide a guide for the bigger one. After I pass the rope through the new hole ( I stiffen the end of the rope with PVA glue to facilitate passing it through the hole), the bigger hole will be invisible in the block, covered by rope.

• thibaultron , mtaylor and Ryland Craze

Joseph Schmidt

Heres my block holder. A fly tying vise.

• thibaultron , Ryland Craze , BenD and 4 others

Thanks for the surgical knot tying video, just whatI need for fastening 2 to 5 mm blocks.

Bridgman Bob

I am a rather old doctor and going to retire soon. Yes we do use instruments to tie knots, especially if we want precision knots. But we do tie knots by hand. The end of that video has some links to more surgical knot tying videos. 

• mtaylor , Mario Pires and thibaultron

Regards, Keith

Snug Harbor Johnny

  The Admiral does beadwork, and has 'bead reamers' that are pretty narrow - they can be found in craft stores that sell beading supplies - or on line.

• mtaylor , thibaultron and Mario Pires

Completed builds:  Khufu Solar Barge - 1:72 Woody Joe

Current project(s): Gorch Fock restoration 1:100, Billing Wasa (bust) - 1:100 Billings, Great Harry (bust) 1:88 ex. Sergal 1:65

• 2 weeks later...

On 12/4/2022 at 11:26 PM, Bob Cleek said:  I did get the helping hands is a good tool. The challenge for me has always been to get the rope through the hole in the blocks, and in general how to make the "building blocks" of rigging. The rigging books I have seen are not for beginners.  There are a few people on youtube with how to videos which have been very helpful.      

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Making Sails for Model Ships

December 3, 2017

On my Model Shipways Bluenose build , I debated whether or not to make the sails.  Many (most?) ship models do not include full sails.  The Model Shipways kit was designed with sails, and includes the sail cloth as part of the kit.  The inclusion of sails was actually one of the factors that led me to select this kit for my second build.

With the booms and gaffs rigged and installed, I would basically be finished with the build if I omit the sails.  The remaining rigging is all attached to sails, so I’d leave it off if I didn’t include sails.  However, the sails really do add something to the model, especially for a schooner like this.

So, I decided to make sails.  I’ve never made sails before, so this will be a learning experience.  Here’s how I ended up doing it…

Choosing How Sails are Displayed

An important decision to make before you start is how you’ll be displaying sails.  There are three different ways you can go:

• For Display

(I made those last two names up).

Furled sails are sails that are lowered.  Many modelers choose to do furled sails on their ships.  The advantage is that the sails don’t cover everything up and make a model look like a bunch of cloth.  When doing furled sails, you typically don’t make the full sail, instead making smaller version.  The sail is put in place, but is bunched up and tied to the appropriate boom or gaff.

Realistic sails try to show the sails rigged and set as they would be while the ship is actually at sea.  Ships adjusted their sails depending on the situation.  In most cases, some sails would be raised while others would be lowered.  Some sails might be set off to one side.  Realistic sails would try to show the ship in some kind of ‘real’ sailing state.

Making sails simply ‘for display’ is what I’m doing.  I’m making all the sails, and installing them all in their raised state.  I’m not going to set any sails off to the sides – everything is just going to be installed straight and even.  You’d probably never see a ship at sea actually set like this, but I think it works well for a model.

When to Make Sails

From what I can tell, the general practice is to make the sails  before rigging and installing the booms and gaffs.  Several of the sails need to be laced onto the booms and gaffs, and that is nearly impossible to do directly on the ship.

The standard process seems to be:

• Build the booms and gaffs.
• Make the sails based on the plans.
• Attach sails to the booms and gaffs as appropriate.
• Install and rig the booms and gaffs.
• Add the additional rigging for each sail.

I’m not confident that all my booms and gaffs are 100% accurately sized, and I suspect that the dimensions of my sails might need to be adjusted to fit my particular ship.  So, I intentionally put off making sails until I had installed all the booms and gaffs.

Once I had everything installed on the ship, I could make templates for the sails that take into account both the plans and the size/shape of my actual build.

Of course, this means that I had a bunch of rigging for the booms and gaffs that would need to be un-done so the booms and gaffs could be removed.  That was fine with me, because I had avoided the use of glue when securing the rigging.  Everything was either tied off (easy to un-tie), or attached with a hook or shackle (easy to remove).

So, my process is:

• Build the booms and gaffs .
• Install and rig the booms and gaffs .
• Make the sails based on the actual layout of my ship.
• De-rig the booms and gaffs, and remove them from the ship.
• Re-install the booms and gaffs, and their rigging.

For me, this approach (while more work) has several advantages:

• Initially, I’m able to focus on getting the booms and gaffs properly installed and rigged, without the sails getting in the way.
• I can start with sail templates based on the plans, and adjust as necessary to fit the exact size/shape of my ship.
• Once sails are ready to install, I can quickly get them rigged without spending any time on the other rigging for the booms and gaffs, since those runs are already done and just need to be re-tied/attached.

Paper Templates

Making the actual sails starts with making paper templates.  Some of the sails were too big to use normal paper, so I picked up a roll of white craft paper.

For each sail, I took a piece of paper and laid it over the plans.  I marked the corners of the sail, then used a ruler to draw lines between the marks, giving me the outline of the sail.  Some sails have curves that I had to hand-draw.

Once the shape was laid out on the paper, I cut the paper to shape.

A paper template for the jib sail.

Next I positioned the paper template on the actual ship in the correct spot.  I took note of anything that didn’t fit just right, and adjusted the template as necessary.  Some sails needed to be made slightly smaller, while some had to be made slightly larger.

To help me visualize the sail, I also marked where the hems on the edges will go, along with any other key elements of the sail.  For the edge hems, I’ll be folding the fabric over and sewing it.  I’ll be shooting for a 1/16″ hem, so I used that size for the markings on the template.

The actual sails on the ship were made from strips of cloth, not one big piece.  To simulate this, I’ll just be sewing lines onto the cloth.  For some of the sails, I went ahead and marked these lines on the template since they need to be oriented correctly according to the plans.

The main and fore sails also have  reef bands , which run horizontally along the lower portion of the sail.  These were marked as well.

Preparing the Sail Cloth

Once I was satisfied with the template, I got out the sail cloth.  Model Shipways includes sail cloth with the kit.  This cloth is a medium weight cotton cloth in an off-white color.  The kit includes enough to make all the sails, assuming you get everything right on the first try.  I knew that wasn’t going to work, so I ordered two more packages of sail cloth from them.  It was relatively inexpensive – about $7 for each package of cloth.

Sails on a ship were rarely bright white.  I’ve seen that many modelers will dye their sail cloth to get a desired shade.  There are many tricks for this, like dipping the material in coffee.  I felt that the off-white color of the Model Shipways cloth was fine, so I didn’t dye my cloth.

If you’re wanting to use other sail cloth, look for something lightweight.  Almost all fabric is going to be too thick and out of scale, so just do the best you can.  I actually used some fabric from a local hobby store for a few ‘test runs’, and learned a few things.  Look for fabric with a tight knit, so the fabric doesn’t start to come apart as you cut it.  Also look for something without too much stretch, as stretchy fabric can distort the shape of the sails as you sew them.

Ideally, you want to wash, dry, and iron the sail cloth before you start.  Most fabric will shrink a little during this process, so you want this out of the way before you start cutting things to size.  Doing this will also release any wrinkles in the fabric.  (I was too excited to get started, and didn’t do this.)

Once you’ve got your fabric ready and your template sized, you’re ready to cut some fabric.

I used a fabric marker to do all the markings on the fabric.  I picked this up at a local hobby store in the sewing section for a couple dollars.  This marker uses special ink that disappears as it evaporates.  This means I can draw all over the fabric, and within a few hours the ink is gone.  I found this to give much better results than using a pencil and trying to erase markings.

The paper template is used to mark up the fabric being used for the sail.

A note on marking fabric…since I’m going to be folding over the edges of the sail to create hems, one side of the sail is going to look better than the other.  Often, you pick a ‘display side’ of the ship, and put ugly stuff (like the worse sail side) so it isn’t visible from the display side.  I found that with the way I was marking, folding, and sewing the cloth, I wanted the markings on the display side.  Making sure I marked the display side ensured that I as I worked I ended up with all the ugly stuff on the back.

First the outline of the sail is marked on the fabric.  Be sure to leave extra space on all sides outside of the sail.

A second outline is made 1/16″  outside of the first outline.  This is the hem that I want to end up with on the finished sail.

A third outline is made 1/2″  outside of the second outline.  This one doesn’t have to be perfect…this is just a guide for cutting the fabric.

You can also mark the reef lines and strips at this point if desired.  I typically didn’t mark the strips, since I was able to position those accurately using my sewing machine.

The fabric is trimmed, leaving excess material around the edges.

Once everything is marked, I cut the fabric along the outer-most outline.  I used a rotary cutter (like a pizza cutter), which gave much better results than scissors.

To make sails you have to do a lot of sewing.  I have no experience sewing.  Doing all this by hand with a needle and thread was not practical, so I bought a cheap little ‘hobby’ sewing machine.  That machine was junk, and broke within the first 20 minutes.  Since I’m hoping to keep this hobby going for a few decades, I decided to go ahead and invest in a real sewing machine.

At my local hobby store, the staff helped me select a good quality machine.  I got it for under $200.  The advantages of a real machine include:

• It won’t jam.
• Variable speeds.
• Selectable stitch length and width (critical for trying to get the stitching remotely close to ‘scale’).
• Many different computer-controlled stitch types, so you can do more than just a simple straight stitch.  This would end up making the reef bands much better.

It took me a few hours to get the hang of using the machine, but my skill level increased quickly.  While I certainly couldn’t sew a shirt or a pair of pants, by the second or third sail I was flying along like a pro.

Since you’ll be sewing, you’ll need thread.  There are three main considerations with the thread.

First is the color.  This is a matter of personal preference.  I’ve seen some models where the stitching on the sails was very high-contrast (dark brown thread on white cloth).  I’ve also seen some where the thread was the same color as the cloth.  I felt like the stitching shouldn’t stand out  too much , and I wanted to rely on the texture of the thread to define the lines rather than the color.  So, I went with a ‘natural’ color thread that ended up being really close to the color of the cloth.

The second consideration is the thread material.  A hobby store will likely have hundreds of different kinds of thread.  There are synthetic materials and natural materials.  I went with a cotton thread.  Why?  No really good reason except that all my rigging lines are cotton and the sail cloth is cotton, so it seemed like a good idea.

The final consideration is quantity.  I have no idea how to predict the amount of thread that will be needed (there may be some ‘trick’ to it that the pros know).  Initially I bought one spool of the thread.  That only made two sails.  When I went back to by more, they were out of that exact thread, so I had to order more online.  That caused a week delay in making sails.  Obviously you wan the thread to be the same on all the sails, so buy a lot of  the same thread up front.  Thread is cheap, and it is better to have some leftover than to run out.

Sewing the Edges

On to sewing.

The first step is to sew the hems on the edges.  I start with the longest edge first, then do the opposite edge, continuing on until all edges are sewn.  The cloth is folded over at the first outline (the line that defines the actual edge of the sail) and pinned into place.  The 1/16″ line that indicates the edge of the hem should be inside the sail.  Since the cloth was cut 1/2″ past that line (on that third outline), there is some extra material here that makes pinning easier.  I’ll cut that off later.

The edges are folded over to create a hem and pinned in place.

The hem is sewn on the edge.

The cloth then goes into the machine and gets stitched up.  I used the machine’s reverse feature to double-stitch the first couple stitches to secure the thread, then just ran a straight stitch down the edge, staying between the edge of the sail and the 1/16″ hem marking.  I used a small stitch length so things weren’t  too out of scale.

My machine lets me set the position of the needle, allowing me to get really close to the edge.

Once the stitch was complete, the extra thread was clipped off.  I used a pair of sharp scissors to carefully cut off the extra cloth along the 1/16″ hem line.

A completed edge hem, about 1/16″ wide.

This was repeated for each edge.

Two edges meet in a corner.

Adding ‘Strips’

To simulate the strips of material, some modelers simply draw lines on the cloth.  I decided to run a stitch for each strip instead.  It is more work, but it goes pretty fast

The ‘strips’ of sail sail cloth are simulated with stitches.  Each sail has a unique strip layout shown on the plans.

The width of the strips is indicated on the plans, as well as the layout of the strips.  It turned out that the width of the strips matched with space between the needle on my sewing machine and the edge of the ‘foot’.  So I didn’t need to mark the strips on the fabric – I just positioned the fabric under the foot and ran the material through the machine.

Reef Bands and Points

The large lower sails (main sail and fore sail) have  reef bands .  These are horizontal bands across the sails.  My sewing machine has a setting that creates a stitch that looks like a ladder (or railroad tracks?).  I adjusted the stitch length and width to get the desired size, then ran this stitch across the sail to create the reef bands.

I ran this right  over the strip lines.  This is easier than doing the reef bands first and trying to start/stop the strip lines at the bands, and you can’t really tell the difference.

Reef bands were sewn in using a different stitch pattern on my machine.

At each point where a strip line crosses the reef band, there is a short rope that goes through the sail.  These ropes were used to secure the sail when it was lowered and bundled up.  I cut a bunch of 1″ long pieces of 0.008″ tan rigging line and punched them through at the appropriate spots.  I used a small bit of fabric glue on each side to keep these ropes flat against the sail instead of sticking out.

Corner Attachment Points

The sails typically have rigging lines attached to the corners of the sails.  This means you need something in each corner to attach a rigging line to.  From my research, it looks like most sails had a rope that ran around the outside edge of the sail, and that rope would form an eye at the sail corners to create the attachment points.

I decided not to add this rope.  I wasn’t confident I could make it look good, and I thought the tan line would stand out too much.

So, I simply sewed brass rings (made from wire) into each corner.  This was done manually with a needle and thread.

Anchor points in the corners were made from brass wire and sewn in.

Finishing Up

Once everything is sewn and I’m happy with the results, there are a few final steps.

I do a final pass to trim anything that looks bad (edges of hems, loose threads, etc.).

After all my disappearing fabric markings have evaporated and disappeared, I iron the sail to flatten it out and remove any remaining wrinkles.

Finally, I use some fabric glue along any exposed fabric edges (like the hems) to keep them from fraying.  I also use a little fabric glue on the ends of stitches to ensure they don’t come loose.

Then the sail is ready to install!

A few completed sails on the ship.

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How to Rig a Model Ship

By Gareth Branwyn

Gareth branwyn.

Gareth Branwyn is a freelance writer and the former Editorial Director of Maker Media. He is the author or editor of over a dozen books on technology, DIY, and geek culture. He is currently a contributor to Boing Boing, Wink Books, and Wink Fun. His free weekly-ish maker tips newsletter can be found at garstipsandtools.com.

Ever since I was an avid model-maker as a kid, and now a game modeler as an adult, I have been fascinated by sailing ship models and ships in bottles. The fact that people take the time to meticulously model all of the rope and rigging on a ship model has always been so impressive to me.

Last year, I backed the historical pirate tabletop wargame, Blood & Plunder . The game uses the most incredible resin-cast ship models. They are supposed to simply be game components, mere playing pieces for a game, but they are incredibly detailed and come with all sorts of hardware and accessories (e.g. deck cannons) to make them look as realistic as possible. I haven’t built mine yet, but I can’t wait.

One of the things I have been intimidated by is the idea of doing all of the rope rigging. But this how to article on the gaming site, 1000 Foot General , breaks the process down and makes it look very approachable. I’m inspired.

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