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One-Design Class Type: Dinghy
Was this boat built to be sailed by youth or adults? Both
Approximately how many class members do you have? 150
Photo Credit:
Photo Credit: Oregatthalh- Y-Flyer
About Y-Flyer
A 4 corner, almost flat bottom 500 lb 18 ft scow designed in 1940 by Alvin Youngquist. M & J =160 sq ft. Sailed/Raced by 2. American Y-Flyer Class organized in 1950 and continued since. Canadian Y-Flyer organized in 1945 and continued since. Both Am and Canadian associations joined together as Y-Flyer International Union with by yearly competition. Canadian Assn sails with spinnaker. US Assn sails without spinnaker.
Boats Produced: 2800
Class boat builder(s):
Presently, no commercial builder. Wooden Y-Flyer can be made at home from Class plans.
Approximately how many boats are in the USA/North America? 500
Where is your One-Design class typically sailed in the USA? List regions of the country:
Canada – ON, QE, AB, BC US – AL, AR, GA, IL, IN, KY, OH, TN, MA, NC, SC, NY
Does this class have a spinnaker or gennaker? Yes
How many people sail as a crew including the helm? 2
Ideal combined weight of range of crew: 300
Boat Designed in 1940
Length (feet/inches): 18′
Beam: 70″
Weight of rigged boat without sails: 500
Draft: 6″
Mast Height: 22′
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The Y flyer is a 18.17ft fractional sloop designed by Alvin Youngquist and built in wood or fiberglass by Helms - Jack A. Helms Co. since 1941.
2770 units have been built..
The Y flyer is an ultralight sailboat which is a very high performer. It is reasonably stable / stiff and has a low righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a racing boat.
Y flyer for sale elsewhere on the web:
Main features
| Model | Y flyer | ||
| Length | 18.17 ft | ||
| Beam | 5.67 ft | ||
| Draft | 0.50 ft | ||
| Country | United states (North America) | ||
| Estimated price | $ 0 | ?? |
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| Sail area / displ. | 40.95 | ||
| Ballast / displ. | 0 % | ||
| Displ. / length | 73.22 | ||
| Comfort ratio | 4.90 | ||
| Capsize | 2.86 |
| Hull type | Centerboard Dinghy | ||
| Construction | Wood or fiberglass | ||
| Waterline length | 14.50 ft | ||
| Maximum draft | 4 ft | ||
| Displacement | 500 lbs | ||
| Ballast | 0 lbs | ||
| Hull speed | 5.10 knots |
We help you build your own hydraulic steering system - Lecomble & Schmitt
| Rigging | Fractional Sloop | ||
| Sail area (100%) | 161 sq.ft | ||
| Air draft | 0 ft | ?? | |
| Sail area fore | 0 sq.ft | ?? | |
| Sail area main | 0 sq.ft | ?? | |
| I | 0 ft | ?? | |
| J | 0 ft | ?? | |
| P | 0 ft | ?? | |
| E | 0 ft | ?? |
| Nb engines | 1 | ||
| Total power | 0 HP | ||
| Fuel capacity | 0 gals |
Accommodations
| Water capacity | 0 gals | ||
| Headroom | 0 ft | ||
| Nb of cabins | 0 | ||
| Nb of berths | 0 | ||
| Nb heads | 0 |
Builder data
| Builder | Helms - Jack A. Helms Co. | ||
| Designer | Alvin Youngquist | ||
| First built | 1941 | ||
| Last built | 0 | ?? | |
| Number built | 2770 |
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Alan Field: Y-Flyer, Farr 40, Martin 242
- By Dave Reed
- Updated: January 9, 2007
JanWinnersDebriefReed
Alan Field, a 48-year-old real estate developer and Farr 40 owner from Los Angeles, never imagined he’d find himself competing on Lake Maumelle, a man-made reservoir west of Little Rock, Ark. Ditto for doing so in the hard-chine, 18-foot Y-Flyer scow. At the suggestion of his crew Steve Hunt, after winning the 2005 Martin 242 North Americans, they applied for a slot in US SAILING’s invitational Championship of Champions, hosted by the Grand Maumelle SC in October. As it turns out, their trip to Arkansas was a good idea: after two days and 13 races in all sorts of conditions, Field and Hunt topped 20 national and North American one-design champions.What was the allure of this event for you guys?There was the challenge of an unfamiliar boat and venue, and the interest to go and get on an even platform and see who really is the best sailor. With this event the learning curve is steep, and that’s exciting. I’ve spent a lot of time on the Farr 40 learning curve, and this is a one-shot deal where you can’t take your time trying to figure it out.What sort of preparation did you focus on beforehand?My biggest concern before the regatta was that the Y-Flyer champion [Will Hankel] would be there. But a bit of research showed that, historically, the class representative hasn’t won the regatta. They take some of the “knowledge” away from the class representative by pinning the shrouds at one setting, and not allowing you to adjust anything, which makes the boats more equal. It comes down to sailing skills, not to having the rig tuned to specific conditions. In one way the class rep is actually at a disadvantage because they’re used to being able to skin the cat the other way.OK, but how’d you figure out how to sail the boat?We tapped into our dinghy experience as a resource [Field grew up racing dinghies, and Hunt campaigned a 470 for several years], and we explored the Internet looking for Y-Flyer information and tuning guides. We sent e-mails to Y-Flyer sailors asking about the boat and the tricks, but once we got to the regatta we quickly learned that the tuning guide was useless and that the tricks were mainly associated with rig tune. We went out a few hours before the regatta and really practiced tacking the boat. We found that most of the boats had the ends of the traveler line all nicely tucked away, but we ended up taking the knots out and running it so we had a system where I adjusted the traveler in the first part of the tack, and Steve handled it in the second part. We really focused on being smooth and getting the boom up on centerline faster than most people tended to.I’ve never sailed a boat with so much lee helm in a breeze. It was counter intuitive-when [in most boats] you get a puff, you want to release the mainsheet and push through. But with the Y-Flyer, the mainsheet controls your headstay tension, so you end up with a fuller jib when you dump the main. It took us a while to figure it out, and that’s where August Barkow [C Scow national champion] really blew our doors off in the breeze. He knew to overtrim the main and move back in the boat to get more leverage on the tiller. With the limited time you had, what did you focus on once you got to the venue?The first thing was boathandling-tacks, jibes, and keeping the boat underneath us. From there it was getting used to sailing the boat with heel and finding where we had to sit to get it right. There are so many things you can do, and while we were experimenting we noticed a lot of the other teams were focused on straight-line speed testing. We figured that with 20 races planned, and with boat rotations, that the races would be short collegiate-style. In that type of racing, boatspeed is less important; boathandling is critical.How did you approach the fleet, given the variety of backgrounds?Our game plan was straightforward from Day One: make good use of our practice, glean as much information as we can from people in the class, and get comfortable with the conditions on the lake. With so many races, we were conservative: clean starts, no tangle ups, and no boat-for-boat duels. Our first day went exactly to plan. We started midline and stuck to the same goal I always have when racing in the Farr 40-be in the top 5 at the weather mark. In a 20-boat fleet with so many races, that’s all we needed in order to be in the hunt on the last day, which is where we ended up.On the last day we won back-to-back races, and after that it was all about fleet management. Steve did a great job of keeping track of where people finished. Our priority after each race was to not switch boats right away, but rather hang out by the finish line and take notes on where other people finished. Then we’d do the math to determine whom we needed to stay with. We started the last day 6 points out of first and finished the day 6 points up, and that’s because we had two wins and kept score to make sure no one could get enough points on us in the last couple of races. We always kept ourselves in contact with the players. How did you make good use of time between rotations?On the first day we made sure we were one of the first to change and quickly went through what we learned in the previous boat, i.e., untie the traveler, take the halyard coils off the mast and tape them below deck so they wouldn’t foul the jib sheets, check the whisker pole setup. Then we’d sail on both tacks, write down our compass numbers, check the jib leads, get to the line, check in, and start looking up the course.How about at the end of the day?Steve and I debriefed at the end of the day like we do on the Farr 40, and sometimes at the end of a particular race. Each day we got up early, and over breakfast Steve would read our notes from the day before, and as we were getting to the club, he’d re-read our bullet-point notes, and review what we learned and what we should focus on for the day.Lightning champ Matt Burridge, with crew Paul Hanson, was second overall at the Championship of Champions. Third through fifth, respectively, were Barkow and Jeff Niedziela, Paul Abdullah and Nick Turney (Interlake national champion), and Joe Kutschenreuter and Colin Smith (X-boat national champion). For complete results, www.ussailing.org
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Y-FLYER TUNING GUIDE
Congratulations on your purchase of North Y-Flyer sails. We are confident you will find superior speed over all conditions. Your sails are designed to be fast, as well as easy to trim and handle.
The following measurements are those we have found the fastest for your new North sails. After experimenting, you may find a slightly different setting may mean even better boats speed for you. We are anxious to help you go faster and win races!
Onshore Adjustments
Mast Placement – The mast step should be positioned so that the mast is near maximum aft position. In this position the back edge of the mast should be 16” to 16½” forward of the centerboard pin.
Mast Rake – the best method for measuring the mast rake on the Y-Flyer is by hoisting a 50’ tape to the top of the mast and measuring the distance from the top of the mast to the intersection of the transom and the back deck. Just hook the tape on your main halyard shackle and don’t worry about adding or subtracting any difference for the shackle. With the rig tensioned properly (discussed later) this measurement should be 24’1” to 23’10½”.
If you are trying to correspond this measurement to the older method of the bubble level on the top of the centerboard trunk, the measurement should be approximately 30”-31”.
While the tape measure is hoisted to the top of your mast it is important to check that your mast is set up straight in your boat laterally. To check this, take the tape and measure the distance from side to side at the bottom of the chainplates. Try to adjust your shrouds so there is no more than ¼” to ½” difference from side to side.
Rig Tension – We have found that the Y-Flyer performs best in medium winds with the rig set up fairly tight. It is best to use a powerful jib halyard adjustment system (a lever, magic box, block and tackle, drum, etc…) so that the leeward shroud just begins to go slack when it is blowing 10-12 mph.
To verify the proper rig tension we strongly suggest using the Loos Tension gauge. When using the Loos gauge, and checking the tension on your 1/8” upper shrouds, the number should read approximately 34-36 (not lbs.).
In light winds without changing the shroud position, it is advantageous to ease off the jib halyard slightly so the tension is reduced in the rig. This will allow the jib luff to sag slightly, making the jib slightly fuller. Using the Loos gauge to check the tension on the shrouds, you should find a number of approximately 28-30. If you still have your tape hoisted on your main halyard, you can check the rake number and see that it will become less (indicating more rake) by 1-2”. In heavy winds, when the boat is overpowered, it is fastest to rake the rig farther aft. If you set your mast up at 24’1” for medium winds, we suggest that you allow it to drop back nearly as far as 23’9” to 23’10”. Ideally, it is best to also drop the shrouds in their channel adjusters so that the rig, when raked farther aft, would still be close to the proper 34-36 Loos gauge number on the shrouds. However, if the breeze comes up during a race and since it is impossible (and Illegal!) to change the shroud tension it is still best to compromise and sail with a looser rig with the mast raked farther aft.
Loos Tension Gauge – This gauge is a very helpful guide in tuning your Y-Flyer.
Mast Bend – when the rig is properly tensioned with the proper rake and spreader settings, your mast should develop positive prebend, where the middle of the mast will move forward at the spreader and the top of the mast will come aft. In medium winds with the rig tensioned at 34-36 on the shrouds the mast should develop nearly 1” to 1½ of prebend. You can check this by pulling the main halyard down tight and holding it at the gooseneck so it will develop a straight line as a reference from the top of the mast to the gooseneck.
In light winds with less tension in the rig, there will be less prebend of approximately ¾”.
Listed below are suggested spreader positions for the various popular masts used the Y-Flyer Class. It should be noted that masts of a particular section may have slightly different bend characteristics depending on spreader height and rigging placement and differences in the extrusions themselves. Because of this, the following measurements should be used as starting points only with appropriate adjustments being make on the actual bend and tested while sailing.
Spreaders for the stiffer mast (W2, H2) – We have found that the spreaders that are 19¼” long and are free swinging forward but lock up when pushed aft at a point where they are 35” to 36” tip to tip will give the proper desired bend. this tip to tip measurement can be found by pulling the spreader together with a tape from one spreader to the other at the tips. Also, check and make sure that the spreaders are angled evenly on each side. These measurements are for masts with spreaders that are 9’1” to 9’2” from the deck. Spreader that are higher on the mast will need to be somewhat shorter.
Spreader for the bendy mast (DP1, C1) – These masts require spreader which are 18 ½” long and 38” measured tip to tip. These measurements are taken of masts when the spreader are approximately 10’ above the deck. To make adjustments to the bend, the “cant” in the spreader should be adjusted (forward for less bend-aft for more bend: or closer tip to tip measurement for more bend, greater tip to tip measurement for less bend).
The Mainsail Look When the Mast is Properly Bent: Basically on all masts we are looking for very slight overbend wrinkles (diagonal wrinkles that will appear from the spreaders to the clew) showing that the mast is beginning to reach maximum mast bend. In light to medium wind these wrinkles should barely appear while in winds above 15-18 mph, these wrinkles will be quite noticeable and in above 20-25 mph winds, will be quite severe. If these wrinkles are not developing, your mast is not bending enough.
Lower Shroud Tension – Your lower shrouds should be adjusted so that the mast is straight sideways when sailing upwind. Check this by sighting up the back of the mast, up the tunnel, and determine if the mast is sagging to leeward or bowing to windward at the spreaders. If sagging to leeward, tighten the windward lower shroud; if bowing to windward, loosen the windward lower shroud. Check both sides independently and when adjusted correctly the lower shrouds will be much looser that the upper shrouds with the jib up and the rig tension as described before.
If you find that it is necessary to sail with your lower shrouds quite tight to keep the mast straight sideways, it could be a good indication that your spreaders are too long. Lower shrouds that are tight can severely impair the mast’s ability to bend properly and therefore harm the boat’s performance. Shorten your spreaders in increments of 1/4” to 3/8” and readjust the lower shrouds to match. Again, your goal is that the leeward lower shroud will be much looser than the leeward upper when sailing upwind in medium winds. The lower shroud should be considered just as a “tweeker” to help control lateral mast bend, but definitely not to be the primary control. The spreaders are most important.
Jib Lead Placement – On your new North Y-Flyer jib you will notice a pencil line drawn from the clew grommet out towards the center of the sail. Use this “trimline” to position your jib lead by making your sheet a direct extension of this line.
In heavy winds, move your jib leads 1” to 2” aft of your medium/light air extension of the trimline position to help depower the jib and open up the slot.
Your leads should be positioned 13½” to 14” off centerline (27” to 28” lead to lead).
Centerboard Angle – It is important that your board is lowered to the maximum, with as little of the board as possible showing above the trunk when sailing upwind.
Sailing Adjustments
Main and Jib Cunningham – For both the main and the jib, never pull tighter than to just leave a hint of wrinkle along the luff of both sails. On your main, these wrinkles will appear in the lower 1/3 to 1/4 of the luff, and on your jib, will appear as small wrinkles approximately 2” long, perpendicular to the luff.
Note: do not attempt to pull out your overbend wrinkles by tensioning your main cunningham. Again, remember that the overbend wrinkles are a necessary guide in showing that the mast is vending properly and pulling the cunningham tight enough to pull these wrinkles out will pull the draft too far forward in your main, robbing your boat of necessary power.
Outhaul – The outhaul adjusts the depth in the lower part of your mainsail. as the outhaul is eased, the shelf on the bottom of the sail opens and the seam that attaches it to the sail moves away from the boom. To gauge outhaul tension, judge the distance from the seam to the side of the boom at roughly the center of the mainsail foot.
The outhaul will be pulled tight enough so that there is just a ½” to 1” gap between the side of the boom and the shelf foot seam in the middle of the foot. In breezes above 10-12 mph when the boat becomes overpowered the outhaul will be pulled tighter until the seam is snug against the side of the boom (max outhaul).
When reaching, ease the outhaul until vertical wrinkles appear across the seam perpendicular to the foot into the body of the sail. Tighten your outhaul until the wrinkles are just removed. When overpowered on a reach, with the spinnaker, leave the outhaul set as you had it upwind. For downwind sailing, leave your outhaul in the tensioned position for maximum projected area.
Jib Sheet Trim – Unfortunately, there is not an easy guide for jib trim. We are looking for a parallel slot between the exit of the jib and the entry of the main. A guide that has been used with some success is imagining a middle batten on the jib at mid leech. Set this “batten” parallel to the centerline of the boat, making the upper batten of the jib twist outboard slightly and the lower batten twist inboard slightly. In extremely flat water and winds of 8 to 12 mph, it is possible to trim the jib in slightly tighter so that the top batten is nearly straight back parallel with the centerline. This trim can be used for short periods of time when the boat is traveling at near maximum speed.
In light winds, or when acceleration is needed, ease the sheet out slightly so that the top batten is angled outboard approximately 15 degrees from parallel with the centerline of the boat. The imaginary middle batten will be angled outboard just slightly from parallel to centerline, and the jib will be fuller and less apt to stall.
Mainsheet Trim – The mainsheet on your Y should be pulled so that the upper batten is parallel to the boom. This is sighted underneath the boom looking up the sail, lining the batten and the boom parallel on a horizontal plane. In very light winds, it is usually impossible to keep the upper batten from hooking slightly to weather because of the weight of the boom hanging on the leech. In these conditions, ease the sheet out so that the top batten is parallel with the centerline of the boat.
In choppy conditions in winds above 2 to 3 mph, ease your mainsheet approximately 6 to 8 inches to slightly open the upper batten out from parallel to the boom. This will make your mainsail fuller, more powerful, and like the jib, less apt to stall.
In medium winds and flat water (ideal boat speed conditions) sometimes it is possible to slightly overtrim your main so that the top batten is looked to windward of parallel to the boom approximately 2 to 5 degrees for short periods of time.
Picture the mainsheet as your accelerator. As your boat picks up speed, pull the main tighter and tighter until the upper batten is parallel or slightly looked to the boom, and in lights winds or when the boat is hit with a wave and needs to accelerate, ease the mainsheet so that the upper batten will angle outboard slightly, inducing “twist” into the sail.
Boomvang – Upwind in medium to heavy winds the boomvang should be kept hard enough to keep the upper batten parallel to the boom. This may require a good deal of boomvang tension, but this will also help to bend the mast and flatten the sail. In light winds, never use any boomvang tension upwind. Downwind the vang should be tensioned only tight enough to maintain the upper batten parallel to the boom position. There may be a tendency to overvang downwind in light winds and undervang downwind in heavy winds. Basically, look for the main to set downwind as it does upwind. The traveler is used to help balance the helm of your Y and keep the boat upright. Upwind when the boat becomes overpowered, the traveler should be eased to leeward, with the boat slowly feathering up into the wind to help keep the boat level and the helm neutral. In the lulls, be sure to quickly pull the traveler back up to centerline, but be ready to ease back down to leeward in the puffs.
Downwind – When sailing your Y downwind with the whisker pole up, it is best to ease off your jib halyard as much as 10” to allow the luff of the jib to sag greatly. A loose luff, when sailing with a pole, will allow the jib to basically “turn around” with the leech becoming the luff and the luff becoming the leech. We need to remember that we are trying to create airflow across the jib with the wind entering the jib from the actual leech of the sail. Not attaching your jib to the forestay with the snaps or Velcro’s will make this procedure much easier. Instead, you can set the forestay so that it is loose enough to just allow the rig to lean back to your heavy air setting of approximately 23’9”. There will be slop in the rig, but that is necessary for top performance downwind. A shockcord retainer can help minimize the slop in the headstay when sailing upwind.
In addition, it is also suggested to sail with a longer whisker pole, which will help with better performance on beam and broad reaches. You will find that the pole will just barely fit in the cockpit of your boat!
Once again, a powerful jib halyard adjuster is helpful to make it easy to adjust the halyard tension properly and easily before rounding the leeward mark when the pole is dropped.
When sailing on a close reach, without the pole, be sure to use your barberhaulers and move your jib lead outboard. The proper position of your barberhauler lead, forward and aft, is determined by the trimline on the clew of the jib. This time, position the barberhauler lead so that the sheet is angled slightly forward of parallel to the trimline. This will make the jib slightly more powerful and help to support the upper leech.
We wish you good luck and fast sailing! Do not hesitate to give us a call if you have any questions or problems. Please consider us your personal sailmaker.
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The American Y-Flyer Sailing Association (AYFSA) is the governing body for the Y-Flyer class sailboat in the United States. The Y-Flyer is an 18′ scow type racing dinghy that is crewed by two persons and is primarily active in the midwest and southern regions of the country. The AYFSA is responsible for maintaining class records, ensuring that a reputable builder is available to construct new boats and to oversee class regattas.
Like most other small sailboat organizations, the AYFSA is run primarily by volunteers who are also members of the organization. As such, their website was previously maintained by someone who volunteered for the job. The original AYFSA website was implemented in Microsoft ASP (“active server pages”) and over the years had additional functionality tacked on using various different technologies. The end result was a site that was a hodgepodge of technologies that no one really understood how they all interacted or, more importantly, how to update them.
The AYFSA webmaster decided to move to WordPress to solve these issues. Unfortunately, the decision was made to stick with the existing Microsoft web server infrastructure. Since WordPress is designed and tested to be used in a Linux -based web server environment, the end result was a sub-optimal site (the least of your worries running WordPress on Microsoft web server infrastructure is the apparent inability to use permalinks ).
Cardinal Acres Web Development re-implemented the site on a Linux-based web server using a theme and plugins better suited to AYFSA’s needs. The new site implements an event registration system via The Events Calendar and Event Tickets that the class can utilize for either displaying their event schedule or leverage for RSVPs to their regattas. If the class wants to move to collecting regatta fees online, Event Tickets Plus is the paid version of Event Tickets that will allow them to do that via integration with WooCommerce .
In addition, the site’s content was re-organized and presentation was improved to make the site easier to navigate. Site pages that were previously just collections of links to other areas of the website were converted into entries in the menu system. Non-HTML content was converted, wherever possible, to HTML to maintain the “look and feel” of the site.
The final result is a significant improvement on the previous site and, via WordPress plugins, offers the ability for the site to grow in functionality as the AYFSA’s online needs expand.
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IMAGES
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COMMENTS
Y Flyer is an American sailing dinghy designed by Alvin Youngquist in 1938 as a one-design racer. It has a scow hull, a fractional sloop rig, a centerboard and a transom-hung rudder.
Learn about the Y FLYER, a centerboard dinghy designed by Alvin Youngquist in 1938. Find its dimensions, calculations, builders, associations, and sailors' discussions.
Learn how a former pro sailor and speed merchant revived the local Y-Flyer fleet in Charleston, South Carolina, with his enthusiasm and efforts. The Y-Flyer is a 18-foot flat-bottom dinghy that offers fun, versatility and family-oriented sailing.
Learn about the Y-Flyer, a 18 ft scow designed in 1940 by Alvin Youngquist, sailed by two people with or without spinnaker. Find out the class contact information, boat builder, number, location, and history.
Learn about Y Flyer, a 5.5 m monohull sailboat designed by Alvin Youngquist and built from 1941. Find out its sail area, ballast, displacement, and other specifications, as well as its popularity in America and Canada.
5.67'. .5'. Iowa. $2,175. Description: 1973 Class I 18' Y-Flyer #2166. Sails are the original main and jib plus 2nd, newer main. . If you have the need for silent speed, this boat is for you. It is quick to the wind and responsive; truly the sports car of sailboats.
Learn how the Y-Flyer sailboat was born in Canada in 1941-1942 and became a popular class across the country. Find out about the CYFYRA, the fleets, the races and the fun of this 18-foot boat.
Learn about the Y flyer, a 18.17ft fractional sloop designed by Alvin Youngquist and built in wood or fiberglass since 1941. See its main features, ratios, hull, rigging, engine, accommodations and builder data.
The first Y-Flyer was built in Canada in the winter of 1941-1942 by Jack Mandeville from the Longueuil Boat Club in Montreal, Quebec. This boat was built from plans shown in Wooden Rudder magazine designed by Alvin Youngquist, a young naval architect from Toledo, Ohio. Six more Y-Flyers were built shortly thereafter at the Longueuil Club.
Canadian Y-Flyer Yacht Racing Association
A day originally scheduled for our club's race starts turned into a high wind adventure. With wind gusts of 30mph, a Y-Flyer skipper was the only club member...
Y FLYER: 18.17 ft / 5.54 m: 1941: ShipCanvas. KiwiGrip. Bruntons. Rudder Craft. SPW Non-BR. Pelagic Autopilots. Boater's Closet Non-BR. EWOL. bottom ads1 row1. bottom ads2 row1. bottom ads3 row2. Show Favorites . Show Favorites . WELCOME! We're glad you're here! To save a list of favorite sailboats, please login or register.
Alan Field, a Farr 40 and Martin 242 sailor, adapted to the hard-chine, 18-foot Y-Flyer scow to win the 2006 US SAILING Championship of Champions. He shares his preparation, tuning, and racing strategies for the unfamiliar boat and venue.
Learn how to tune your Y-Flyer sails for optimal speed and performance in different wind conditions. Find out the best settings for mast placement, rake, tension, bend, spreaders, and more.
Turner Y-Flyer: Length: 18' Type: dinghy: Hull: fiberglass monohull: Engine: gas inboard; Location: Toronto Ontario Canada, Outside United States; Asking: ... 30' Pearson 30 Sailboat Hampton River Hampton, Virginia Asking $4,000. 32.7' Beneteau Oceanis 321 Ft Walton Destin, Florida Asking $40,000. 33.6' Moody Aft cabin 34 Vero Beach, Florida
The American Y-Flyer Sailing Association (AYFSA) is the governing body for the Y-Flyer class sailboat in the United States. The Y-Flyer is an 18′ scow type racing dinghy that is crewed by two persons and is primarily active in the midwest and southern regions of the country. The AYFSA is responsible for maintaining class records, ensuring ...
Turner Y-Flyer: Length: 18'2"' Beam: 5'9"' Draft: 4' Year: 1989: Type: dinghy: Hull: fiberglass monohull: Location: Charleston, South Carolina; Asking: ... 19' Flying Scot Flying Scot 19 Sailboat Lake Fairview Marina Orlando, Florida Asking $31,500. 44' Nauticat 44 1987 built in Finland Fort Lauderdale, Florida Asking $38,750.
Location. Welcome to the event site for the 2024 Y-Flyer Junior & Senior Nationals, June 24-28, 2024. June is always a spectacular time to sail in the Midwest so please register for the regattas as soon as possible. We're hoping/dreaming for 50 boats as this is CSA's 50th Anniversary of hosting our first Nationals in 1974!!!
The Y-Flyer combines the excitement of sailing with a warm and inclusive community. Join us to be part of a network of like-minded individuals who appreciate camaraderie, water, and competitive racing. Designed by Alvin Youngquist in 1940, the Y-Flyer features a 500-pound scow hull with a flat bottom, reverse sheer, and rigid hull chine. This ...
Y Flyer Sails and Parts . Unbridled Sailing is proud to have been chosen to manufacture the new suits of Y-Flyer sails needed for the 2018 US Sailing Championship of Champions. Only $1100 per suit, and sewn with your sail number, they will first be delivered to the C of C to be used for the regatta in 20 races.
Builder of the Y Flyer Turner Marine (217) 895-3395 [email protected]. Associations. Y-Flyer Yacht Racing Association; Designers. Alvin Youngquist; Source: sailboatdata.com / CC BY. Suggest Improvements 1 sailboat built by Turner Marine.
About this group. For Y-Flyer Sailors and Friends. Only members can see who's in the group and what they post. Anyone can find this group. Group created on October 13, 2013. See more.
Contact. Factory Showroom. Email Us. 1-937-862-7781. Manufacturer of Y Flyer Sailboat Covers and 250+ other One Design Boat Covers and Accessories since 1972.