sailboat masthead

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fractional vs. masthead rigged, pros and cons?

• Thread starter centerline
• Start date Aug 13, 2012
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

I am familiar with a masthead rigged boat and its easy to figure out how to tune the rigging, but this new-to-me mac 25 is a fractional rigged boat and I am curious as to the advantages and disadvantages of masthead vs. fractional.... why couldnt they have added the extra few feet of cable and went to the top of the mast? is it tuned differently? the only thing I can see the rear stay is used for is to add a bit of bend to the mast, and then its still seems loose... it has the pigtail attached to it, but i will replace it with a topping lift soon....  

I'll let others deal with the fractional vs masthead, but as for pigtail vs topping lift - I don't like the pigtail on my boat so I replaced it with a topping lift. The main problem I had with the pigtail was when raising the main - the pigtail does not allow the boom to 'vane' to the wind, so the sail would catch air (as thought it were trimmed for a close reach) and the boat would veer broad side to the wind. With the topping lift it's a much smother and safer process (assuming you remember to duck)  

You derive power from the main and drive from the headsails. The fractional rig on Ventures is an excellent sailplan. All the Venture/Mac 25's came fractional rig stock out of the factory. The stock mast is not heavy enough for a masthead rig. In '76 I asked Roger MacGregor to masthead rig Freedom with the intention of carrying bigger headsails and chute for open water racing, Newport-Ensenada etc. I think there were only two -25's to come out the factory this way. In order to do this the mast extrusion is much heavier, Sparcraft S-106, due to dismastings on some boat modified with stock mast, S-104. I have been satisfied with this design. Keep in mind that your existing sails will fit but will not perform the same. Freedom was given a 6 second penalty under PHRF. Even with that I was able to sail faster than the stock fractional rig. Masthead rig will give more weather helm and will roundup quicker. Downwind will usually be an advantage.  

kpgraci said: I'll let others deal with the fractional vs masthead, but as for pigtail vs topping lift - I don't like the pigtail on my boat so I replaced it with a topping lift. The main problem I had with the pigtail was when raising the main - the pigtail does not allow the boom to 'vane' to the wind, so the sail would catch air (as thought it were trimmed for a close reach) and the boat would veer broad side to the wind. With the topping lift it's a much smother and safer process (assuming you remember to duck) Click to expand

Freedom77 said: You derive power from the main and drive from the headsails. The fractional rig on Ventures is an excellent sailplan. All the Venture/Mac 25's came fractional rig stock out of the factory. The stock mast is not heavy enough for a masthead rig. In '76 I asked Roger MacGregor to masthead rig Freedom with the intention of carrying bigger headsails and chute for open water racing, Newport-Ensenada etc. I think there were only two -25's to come out the factory this way. In order to do this the mast extrusion is much heavier, Sparcraft S-106, due to dismastings on some boat modified with stock mast, S-104. I have been satisfied with this design. Keep in mind that your existing sails will fit but will not perform the same. Freedom was given a 6 second penalty under PHRF. Even with that I was able to sail faster than the stock fractional rig. Masthead rig will give more weather helm and will roundup quicker. Downwind will usually be an advantage. Click to expand

Stu Jackson

The "pigtail" is called "boom lift." It works just fine if used properly. It is intended to hold the boom up after you have dropped the mainsail. In most cases it is higher than a standard non-adjustable topping lift, so the boom is higher using the boom lift. Most trailerable sailboats have end boom sheeting, so you can't move the boom off the centerline as you could with mid-boom sheeting. It keeps it out of the way. Just don't keep it attached when you raise the mainsail. Without a topping lift the boom will fall into the cockpit when you drop the main. No reason you can't use both to your advantage.  

Paul Brinkley

My Mac 26S came with neither topping lift nor backstay pigtail. I saw some other boats with pigtails, but decided I had rather have a topping lift for versatility and safety. It was a very cheap mod- an extra sheave in my chicken head, about 60 feet of 1/4" line, a small snap hook, and an eyebolt for the end of the boom, and I waas in business. I have been happy with it. -Paul  

A few further thoughts on pros & cons... I have a 2006 Hunter 33 with fractional rig. A major advantage (at lease for the wife) is that the compression post in the cabin is so far forward that it is in the v-berth area, leaving the cabin feeling very open and spacious. However, since living with it for a few years, I see several disadvantages: 1) the halyard for the spinnaker exits the mast just above the forestay, so the max asymmetrical spinnaker it can take is a lot smaller that if it were flown from mast top. 2) The large main is so far forward that it interferes with the airflow and makes it very difficult to get the asym to fill. I'm still experimenting with this, but have yet to find a set of conditions where I go noticeably faster with the asym vs. poling our the jib! (big disappointment so far. 3) the space between the mast and and the prow is too small to fit the inflated dinghy, so I end up disinflating it or towing it more that I otherwise would. It does seem to me that going for fractional rigs is the current fashion - but I'm still undecided about what I'd get if starting again. (Do love my H33 though!)  

Generally speaking a fractional is easier to get mast bend if you have an adjustable backstay. On the masthead it makes flying a spinnaker slightly harder as the spin will exit forward of the mast, and hopefully above the forestay, but everything is "closer." On a factional, you have the option of the spin halyard exiting higher, and out of the way. Power for a fractional is highly dependent on the main, where power for a masthead is highly dependent on the jib. I've owned a Capri 22 (fractional 3/4 rig), and a Capri 25 (masthead rig), within months of each other. Generally speaking with a fractional, you can easily sail on main alone, also as the wind pipes up you change headsails first to smaller size, then reef, on the masthead its the other way around, and sailing on main alone is painfully slow. I speak only with cursory racing experience, and years of sailing experience, and attempting to get the boat flatter sooner, without losing speed is presently my goal. So take what I say with a grain of salt. I can say the trend now is mostly towards fractional rigs.  

The fractional rig (with an ADJUSTABLE backstay) allows you to bend the upper portion of the mast to gain better mainsail shape under various wind conditions. Most of your performance oriented/racing boats will be fractional rigged. The stock 25 backstay is just a single wire and offers little if any adjustments (at least mine was). I redesigned mine, turning it into a split backstay with a simple backstay adjusting setup. Not the best picture of it, but should give some idea (the backstay adj was added later, i can get pics if you're interested).  

Attachments

I have sailed both fractional & masthead rigs. Each era of sailboat design goes through fashions & fads, & each has it advantages. The trend towards larger mains & smaller jibs on fractional rigs also seems to go with the philosophy of easier sail handling, as it is easier to tack a smaller jib the does not overlap the mast. Bigger, more powerful mains are easier to control when tacking then large overlapping headsails. Self tacking jibs are now more popular, and are hence smaller to accomodate this. My current Catalina 30 is a 70's era design with the masthead rig, smaller main, bigger jib era that defined many 70's sailboats. It performs well with a larger 135 genoa overlapping the main, but 150's can be a bear to tack when short handed. I personally like having a slightly smaller main, cut higher with a taller boom that is less inclined to bang one in the head if an accidental jibe occurrs. I am not a fan of the furling mains that are so popular today, as the lack of horizontal battens severely hampers their sail shape performance. ps. My split backstay masthead rig gives a nice bend in the mast, so I don't see how this is something that is unique to fractional rigs. To me fractional rigs seem to go hand in hand with trailor sailers as a smaller mast has benefits in raising & lowering (reduced weight), but smaller sail area limits some performance characteristics. (I'm sure some will disagree, but my 2 cents worth.)  

if you take a walk down on the docks and take a look at the fractional vs masthead rig you will notice that most of the fractional rig have the mast way forward and that the mast head rig have the mast more aft. I believe that fractional rig give more space down below for accommodation of a dining table and such. The balance of the boat might also have something to do in it, usually the main is larger on a fractional and smaller on a masthead rig.  

mesange said: if you take a walk down on the docks and take a look at the fractional vs masthead rig you will notice that most of the fractional rig have the mast way forward and that the mast head rig have the mast more aft. I believe that fractional rig give more space down below for accommodation of a dining table and such. The balance of the boat might also have something to do in it, usually the main is larger on a fractional and smaller on a masthead rig. Click to expand

fractional vs masthead There are pros & cons on both sides Lets start with masthead rigs: In day gone by, most boats were fractional but with the introduction of the IOR rule circa late 60`s early 70`s which no one has bothered to mention yet. Under IOR The area of the main sail counted for more than the jib. This is why masts were moved aft and main sails got smaller while jibs got bigger. Take two boats same LOA beam displacement sail area but one boat is a fractional the other is a masthead Under IOR the fractional boat will have a lower rating. This is why you see so many 70`s mast head boats. They are no faster but can win on corrected time. 2Masthead boats are considered stronger Masthead boats do not sail well under main alone but will sail well under jib alone. fractional boats have only one jib so there is no jibs to change down. Fractional boats sail well under main. I could go on all day both rigs have their advantages & disadvantages. I prefer masthead because thats all I ever owned My friend with a J prefers fractional I do not think that either is better its a matter of personal preference  

bffatcat said: with the introduction of the IOR rule circa late 60`s early 70`s Click to expand

Joe said: Uh......... perhaps some comparative specs and dimensions would be admissible.... but just walking around the docks.... I'm not convinced. Click to expand

mesange said: why don't you take a walk around the dock......smart..... Click to expand

Joe said: I might....... but I'd take a measuring tape with me before I started speculating on boat design. Click to expand

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Sailboat Masts: A Comprehensive Guide to Choosing the Perfect Mast

by Emma Sullivan | Jul 17, 2023 | Sailboat Gear and Equipment

Short answer sailboat masts:

Sailboat masts are vertical structures that support the sails on a sailboat. Typically made of aluminum, wood, or carbon fiber, masts vary in length and design depending on the type and size of the boat. They play a crucial role in providing stability and transferring wind energy to propel the sailboat forward.

Understanding Sailboat Masts: A Comprehensive Guide

When it comes to sailing, one of the most critical components of a sailboat is its mast. Acting as the backbone and support for the sails, the mast plays a crucial role in harnessing wind power to propel the vessel forward. In this comprehensive guide, we will delve into the intricacies of sailboat masts, exploring their various types, materials, and functions.

Types of Sailboat Masts: Sailboat masts come in different designs, each catering to specific sailing needs. The most common types include:

1. Deck-Stepped Mast: This type of mast is attached to the deck and supported by compression or tension on its base. It offers ease of access for maintenance but may restrict height due to deck limitations.

2. Keel-Stepped Mast: As the name suggests, this mast rests on the keel, providing increased stability and maximizing height potential. However, accessing it can be more challenging for routine inspections or repairs.

3. Fractional Rig: With a fractional rig setup, the forestay attachment point is positioned below the top of the mast’s highest point. This design allows for a wider range of sail adjustments while enhancing performance in varying wind conditions.

4. Masthead Rig: In contrast to a fractional rig, a masthead rig positions its forestay at the top of the mast’s highest point. This configuration provides greater cruising stability while sacrificing some versatility in sail adjustments.

Materials Used in Sailboat Masts: Sailboat masts are predominantly crafted from three main materials:

1. Aluminum Alloy: Highly popular due to its durability and affordability, aluminum alloy masts offer excellent strength-to-weight ratio while ensuring resistance against corrosion brought by saltwater exposure.

2. Carbon Fiber: Known for its superior strength properties combined with lightweight qualities, carbon fiber has become synonymous with high-performance racing sailboats. It offers exceptional stiffness and flexibility, allowing sailors to optimize speed and response.

3. Wood: While less common in modern sailboats, wood masts were extensively used in the past. Today, they tend to be preferred for traditional or classic boats seeking a touch of nostalgia. Wooden masts require regular maintenance to prevent rot and warping.

Functions of Sailboat Masts: Sailboat masts serve several key functions; these include:

1. Supporting the Sails: The primary purpose of a mast is to provide a stable platform for the attachment and hoisting of sails. It must withstand varying wind pressures and distribute forces evenly throughout the structure.

2. Channeling Wind: By placing the sails on the mast, it acts as an optimal conduit for capturing wind energy and converting it into forward propulsion. The design of the mast plays a role in determining how efficiently this process occurs.

3. Controlling Rig Tension: Masts often have additional components like shrouds, stays, or running rigging that allow sailors to adjust tension in their sailboat’s rigging system. Correctly tensioned rigging helps maintain sail shape, control stability, and overall boat performance.

4. Providing Height for Obstacle Clearance: Whether sailing under bridges or navigating tight spaces near shorelines, the height provided by a well-designed mast allows sailboats to clear obstacles safely without damaging the vessel or jeopardizing crew safety.

Understanding these aspects of sailboat masts can empower sailors with knowledge critical both for enhancing performance and ensuring safe navigation on open waters. So next time you set foot on a sailboat, take a moment to appreciate how this seemingly simple structure can make all the difference in your sailing experience!

How to Choose the Right Sailboat Mast for Your Vessel

When it comes to sailing, the mast of your sailboat is like its backbone. It provides crucial support for the sails and allows you to harness the power of the wind, propelling you through the water with grace and speed. But choosing the right sailboat mast for your vessel can be a daunting task, considering the myriad options available in today’s market. Fear not, dear sailors, for we are here to guide you through this process and help you make an informed decision.

First and foremost, it’s important to consider the material of the mast. Common options include aluminum, carbon fiber, and wood. Aluminum masts are popular due to their affordability and durability. They can withstand various weather conditions while offering excellent structural integrity. On the other hand, carbon fiber masts are lightweight and have high tensile strength, resulting in improved performance on the water. Although they tend to be more expensive than aluminum masts, their benefits make them an attractive option for serious sailors looking to gain a competitive edge.

Next up is height – size matters! The height of your mast directly impacts your boat’s speed potential and overall performance. Taller masts generate more sail area but also require stronger rigging systems to handle increased loads. If you’re planning on leisurely coastal cruising, a shorter mast may suffice; however, if you’re aiming for bluewater or racing adventures where every knot counts, opting for a taller mast might be wise.

Additionally, understanding your sailing goals and preferences is crucial when selecting a mast profile or shape that suits your needs best. Do you prefer easy handling? A single-spreader rig could be ideal as it provides simplicity in terms of tuning and maintenance. Alternatively, if you’re after enhanced control and better downwind performance during races or offshore voyages, go for a double-spreader configuration that offers improved stability and versatility.

Now let’s talk about section shape – it’s time to get curvy! Masts come in various shapes, from round to elliptical, and even with full or square sections. The choice here will depend on your boat’s design and your sailing intentions. Round masts are known for their strength and versatility across different wind conditions. They offer a balanced compromise between performance and ease of use. On the other hand, an elliptical or oval shape provides improved aerodynamics, reducing drag and potentially enhancing speed.

Last but not least, don’t forget about the mast’s finishing touches – fittings and accessories. These seemingly small details can have a huge impact on both functionality and aesthetics. Stainless steel fittings are durable but can add unwanted weight, whereas lightweight alternatives such as titanium or carbon fiber offer strength without sacrificing performance.

In conclusion, choosing the right sailboat mast requires careful consideration of material, height, profile shape, and fittings. By understanding your own sailing objectives, preferences, and budgetary constraints, you can make an informed decision that will elevate your sailing experience to new heights (pun intended!). So weigh anchor and set sail on a journey of discovery with the perfect mast for your vessel!

Step-by-Step: Installing and Rigging Sailboat Masts

Welcome back to our sailing blog, where we aim to give you the best tips and tricks for all your seafaring adventures. Today, we dive into the intricate world of installing and rigging sailboat masts. Whether you’re a seasoned sailor or just starting out, this step-by-step guide will help you navigate the process with ease.

Step 1: Gather Your Tools

Before you begin, it’s essential to assemble all the necessary tools for the job. You’ll need a measuring tape, wrenches of various sizes, shackles, cotter pins, a winch handle, and line cutters. It’s always a good idea to have these tools readily available on your boat so that when it comes time to install or adjust your mast, you won’t waste any precious time rummaging through cluttered storage compartments.

Step 2: Measure Twice, Cut Once

The old adage holds true in sailboat mast installation as well. Before taking down your current mast (if applicable), measure its height from deck level accurately. This measurement is crucial as it determines whether your new mast will fit correctly onto your boat. Remember to account for any changes in boat specifications since the last mast installation.

Step 3: Prepare Your Mast and Deck Fittings

Now that you have all the measurements required; carefully inspect your new mast for any defects or damages during transportation. Ensure that all fittings are secure and correctly attached before proceeding further. Take note of any loose shackles or cotter pins that may need tightening or replacing.

Next up is preparing your deck fittings for receiving the new mast. Check that they are clean, well-lubricated, and free from any obstructions such as dirt or rust build-up. A properly prepared base will ensure smooth sailing throughout the installation process.

Step 4: Hoisting Your Mast

With your deck fittings ready, it’s time to hoist the mast into position. This task is easier with a team of two or more experienced sailors, so don’t hesitate to seek help. Carefully attach a halyard to the top of your mast and securely fasten it using shackles or appropriate knots. Slowly raise the mast, ensuring that it remains vertical at all times.

As you lift the mast, have someone guide the base onto its designated deck fitting. Ensure proper alignment and fit by carefully wiggling and adjusting as needed. Once in place, secure the base with robust cotter pins or other locking mechanisms.

Step 5: Attaching Shrouds and Stays

Now that your mast is secure, it’s time to attach the shrouds and stays – those vital support cables that keep everything steady while on the water. Begin by attaching each stay or shroud to their designated point on deck using appropriately sized shackles.

One by one, extend each cable from its anchor point on deck up towards its designated attachment point on the mast. Ensure that these cables are correctly tensioned without any sagging or excessive tautness. Use your wrenches to tighten all turnbuckles until they’re firm but not overly tightened.

Step 6: Trimming Your Sails

With your sailboat mast fully installed and rigging completed, it’s time for some final checks before setting sail! Make sure all lines are properly secured with correct tension – avoid overtightening which may distort sails’ shape when under wind pressure.

Double-check all connections for safety purposes—no loose shackles or cotter pins left behind. Lastly, trim your sails to optimize performance; adjust halyards and sheets as necessary for proper sail shape.

Final Thoughts

Installing and rigging sailboat masts may seem like an overwhelming task initially, but with careful planning and attention to detail, anyone can accomplish this feat. Remember to take your time and don’t rush the process; safety should always be your top priority.

We hope this step-by-step guide has shed some light on the intricacies of mast installation and rigging. Stay tuned for more informative blog posts to make your sailing experience even more enjoyable!

Sailboat Mast Maintenance: Expert Tips and Tricks

Ah, the open sea, the sound of waves crashing against the hull, the wind gently guiding your sailboat across the water. There’s something incredibly liberating about being out on the water with nothing but your boat and the elements. But amidst all that freedom and adventure lies a responsibility – the maintenance of your sailboat mast.

Like any well-oiled machine, a sailboat requires regular upkeep to ensure its optimal performance. And when it comes to masts, proper maintenance is key to ensuring both safety and efficiency on the open waters. If you’re ready to dive into some expert tips and tricks for sailboat mast maintenance, look no further!

1. Preemptive Inspections: Before setting sail on any journey, be sure to conduct a thorough inspection of your mast. Check for any signs of damage or wear such as cracks, corrosion, or loose fittings. By catching these issues early on, you can prevent more significant problems from arising while at sea.

2. Rigging Routine: The rigging plays a crucial role in supporting your mast’s structure and controlling the sails’ positioning – don’t neglect it! Regularly inspect and tune your rigging to ensure optimal tension and alignment. Look out for any fraying or rusting wires that may compromise their strength.

3. Routine Cleaning & Lubrication: Just like anything exposed to saltwater conditions, masts are prone to accumulating dirt, grime, and salt deposits over time. Take care of your mast by giving it a good scrub with warm soapy water regularly. Additionally, apply lubricant to all moving parts such as sheaves and cleats to keep them running smoothly.

4. Say No To Corrosion: The salty marine environment can wreak havoc on metal surfaces if left unattended for too long – especially when it comes to aluminum masts known for their susceptibility to corrosion. Protect your mast by periodically using a reputable anti-corrosion treatment, and consider investing in sacrificial anodes to ward off this pesky problem.

5. Seamanship with Paint: Aesthetics may not be the primary concern for some sailors, but a well-painted mast can enhance both visual appeal and longevity. Use high-quality marine-grade paint suited for aluminum or wooden masts to provide an extra layer of protection against the elements. Ensure you properly prepare and prime the surface before applying any paint.

6. Don’t Forget the Dull Bits: While the mast itself rightfully demands most of your attention, don’t overlook other components such as spreaders, halyards, and winches. These often-forgotten areas require regular cleaning, lubrication, and inspecting to prevent potential snags or malfunctions when it matters most – out on the water.

7. Reach New Heights with Height Safety: If you’re planning any ambitious adventures that involve ascending to heights on your sailboat’s mast, always prioritize safety first! Make sure you have proper rigging equipment, such as bosun’s chairs or harnesses, and never ascend without a competent crew member supporting you from below.

8. Get Professional Help: When in doubt about any aspect of sailboat mast maintenance – whether it’s detecting hidden damages or mastering complex repairs – enlist the help of professionals who specialize in sailing gear servicing. Their expertise will ensure your mast remains shipshape throughout all your nautical endeavors.

Remember, maintaining a sailboat is not just about preserving its physical condition; it also ensures the safety of everyone on board and prolongs its lifespan. By following these expert tips and tricks for sailboat mast maintenance, you’ll be able to navigate confidently through any adventure that lies ahead while embracing the wonders of life on the open water!

Frequently Asked Questions about Sailboat Masts Answered

When it comes to sailboat masts, there are always a few burning questions that come up time and time again. Whether you’re an experienced sailor or just starting out, it’s important to fully understand the ins and outs of this crucial component of your vessel. So, we’ve gathered some frequently asked questions about sailboat masts and provided detailed answers to help you navigate the waters with ease.

Q: What is a sailboat mast? A: A sailboat mast is a vertical spar that supports the sails on a sailing vessel. It plays a vital role in maintaining stability and maximizing performance while out on the water.

Q: What materials are sailboat masts made of? A: Sailboat masts can be constructed from various materials such as aluminum, carbon fiber, or wood. Each material has its own advantages and considerations like durability, weight, cost, and maintenance requirements.

Q: How do I know if my sailboat mast needs to be replaced? A: There are several signs that indicate it may be time to replace your sailboat mast. These include visible cracks, excessive corrosion or rust, bent or misshapen sections, or noticeable weakening of its structure. If you notice any of these issues during regular inspections, it’s best to consult with a professional for further evaluation.

Q: Can I repair a damaged sailboat mast instead of replacing it? A: In some cases, minor damage to a sailboat mast can be repaired rather than replaced entirely. However, this depends on the severity of the damage and the type of material used in construction. It is crucial to consult with an expert who can assess whether repair is feasible without compromising safety and performance.

Q: How often should I inspect my sailboat mast? A: Regular inspection is crucial for maintaining the integrity of your sailboat mast. We recommend conducting visual checks before every outing and performing more thorough inspections at least once per season or after any significant weather event or impact.

Q: How do I measure the height of my sailboat mast? A: To accurately measure the height of your sailboat mast, you can use a tape measure or refer to the manufacturer’s specifications. Measure from the base of the mast to the highest point it projects above the deck. Always double-check this measurement to ensure your vessel safely navigates under low bridges and restricted areas.

Q: Can I modify my sailboat mast for better performance? A: Modifying your sailboat mast can indeed enhance its performance to some extent. However, it is essential to consult with sailing experts or naval architects before making any alterations. They will evaluate your vessel’s design and recommend modifications that could optimize your sailing experience without compromising safety or stability.

Q: Are there any special maintenance requirements for sailboat masts? A: Sailboat masts require regular maintenance, regardless of material, to prolong their lifespan and ensure safe operation. This includes routine inspections, cleaning, lubrication, anti-corrosion treatment in relevant areas, and careful attention to fittings like spreaders and rigging attachments.

Q: Can I install additional equipment on my sailboat mast? A: Many sailors choose to install additional equipment on their sailboat masts such as antennas, wind instruments, or lights. Before doing so, it’s crucial to consider the added weight and potential impacts on balance and stability. Consult with professionals who can suggest optimum locations for mounting these accessories while minimizing any adverse effects.

Remember that when it comes to sailboat masts, knowledge is key. By understanding these frequently asked questions and their answers in detail, you will be better equipped to navigate smoothly through your sailing adventures while keeping both safety and performance at the forefront of your mind.

Exploring Different Types of Sailboat Masts and Their Benefits

When it comes to sailing, one of the most important parts of a sailboat is its mast. Acting as the central structural support, the type of mast you choose can greatly influence your sailing experience. In this blog post, we will dive into exploring different types of sailboat masts and uncovering their unique benefits.

1. The Classic Tall Mast: The tall mast design is reminiscent of traditional sailing vessels and offers a timeless appeal. It provides increased sail area for harnessing stronger winds and achieving higher speeds. With a tall mast, you’ll be able to take advantage of more wind power, making it an ideal choice for those who crave exhilarating speed on the open water.

2. The Bendy Mast: In contrast to the rigid nature of traditional masts, bendy masts have become increasingly popular among sailors seeking enhanced performance. By incorporating flexible materials or engineering techniques into its construction, the bendy mast allows for greater control over sail shape and camber adjustment. This flexibility ensures optimal airflow around the sails, resulting in improved maneuverability and responsiveness.

3. The Carbon Fiber Mast: For those craving both strength and lightness in their sailboat’s mast, carbon fiber is an unmatched material choice. Carbon fiber masts offer exceptional stiffness-to-weight ratios, allowing sailors to maximize their vessel’s overall performance potential. With reduced weight aloft, carbon fiber masts enhance stability while minimizing heeling forces – now that’s a winning combination!

4. The Fractional Rigging System: Moving away from individual mast types per se but closely linked to what’s atop your boat is fractional rigging system designs. These systems involve attaching the forestay (the cable supporting the front portion of the mast) at some point below the top; this configuration results in reduced stress on both the boat and crew during gusts or high winds. The fractional rig also enables easy depowering by adjusting halyard tension without compromising pointing ability or sail trim.

5. The Wing Masts: Looking to embrace cutting-edge sailing innovations? Look no further than the wing masts. Popularized in high-performance racing sailboats, they provide superior aerodynamic efficiency due to their streamlined shape. By reducing drag and turbulence, wing masts allow sailors to achieve great speeds while experiencing reduced heeling forces—an excellent choice for those seeking both speed and stability in their sailing adventures.

In conclusion, choosing the right type of sailboat mast is crucial for optimizing performance, speed, maneuverability, and overall sailing experience. Whether you opt for the classic tall mast for a traditional appeal or choose a carbon fiber mast for strength and lightness, there are various options available to suit your preferences. Exploring different types of sailboat masts opens up a world of possibilities, each offering its unique benefits that can elevate your sailing journey to new heights – quite literally!

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Sailboat Hardware

Guide to Understanding Sail Rig Types (with Pictures)

There are a lot of different sail rig types and it can be difficult to remember what's what. So I've come up with a system. Let me explain it in this article.

What are the different types of sail rig? The sail rig is determined by the number of masts and the layout and shape of sails. Most modern ships are fore-and-aft rigged, while old ships are square-rigged. Rigs with one mast are sloops and cutters. Ketches, yawls, brigs, and schooners have two masts. Barques have three masts. Rigs can contain up to seven masts.

'Yeah, that's a gaff brig, and that a Bermuda cutter' - If you don't know what this means (neither did I) and want to know what to call a two-masted ship with a square-rigged mainsail, this article is definitely for you.

On this page:

More info on sail rig types, mast configurations and rig types, rigs with one mast, rigs with two masts, rigs with three masts, related questions.

This article is part 2 of my series on sails and rig types. Part 1 is all about the different types of sails. If you want to know everything there is to know about sails once and for all, I really recommend you read it. It gives a good overview of sail types and is easy to understand.

The Ultimate Guide to Sail Types and Rigs (with Pictures)

First of all, what is a sail rig? A sail rig is the way in which the sails are attached to the mast(s). In other words, it's the setup or configuration of the sailboat. The rig consists of the sail and mast hardware. The sail rig and sail type are both part of the sail plan. We usually use the sail rig type to refer to the type of boat.

Let's start by taking a look at the most commonly used modern sail rigs. Don't worry if you don't exactly understand what's going on. At the end of this article, you'll understand everything about rig types.

The sail rig and sail plan are often used interchangeably. When we talk of the sail rig we usually mean the sail plan . Although they are not quite the same. A sail plan is the set of drawings by the naval architect that shows the different combinations of sails and how they are set up for different weather conditions. For example a light air sail plan, storm sail plan, and the working sail plan (which is used most of the time).

So let's take a look at the three things that make up the sail plan.

The 3 things that make up the sail plan

I want to do a quick recap of my previous article. A sail plan is made up of:

• Mast configuration - refers to the number of masts and where they are placed
• Sail type - refers to the sail shape and functionality
• Rig type - refers to the way these sails are set up on your boat

I'll explore the most common rig types in detail later in this post. I've also added pictures to learn to recognize them more easily. ( Click here to skip to the section with pictures ).

How to recognize the sail plan?

So how do you know what kind of boat you're dealing with? If you want to determine what the rig type of a boat is, you need to look at these three things:

• Check the number of masts, and how they are set up.
• You look at the type of sails used (the shape of the sails, how many there are, and what functionality they have).
• And you have to determine the rig type, which means the way the sails are set up.

Below I'll explain each of these factors in more detail.

The most common rig types on sailboats

To give you an idea of the most-used sail rigs, I'll quickly summarize some sail plans below and mention the three things that make up their sail plan.

• Bermuda sloop - one mast, one mainsail, one headsail, fore-and-aft rigged
• Gaff cutter - one mast, one mainsail, two staysails, fore-and-aft rigged
• Gaff schooner - two-masted (foremast), two mainsails, staysails, fore-and-aft rigged
• Gaff ketch - two-masted (mizzen), two mainsails, staysails, fore-and-aft rigged
• Full-rigged ship or tall ship - three or more masts, mainsail on each mast, staysails, square-rigged

The first word is the shape and rigging of the mainsail. So this is the way the sail is attached to the mast. I'll go into this later on. The second word refers to the mast setup and amount of sails used.

Most sailboats are Bermuda sloops. Gaff-rigged sails are mostly found on older, classic boats. Square-rigged sails are generally not used anymore.

But first I want to discuss the three factors that make up the sail plan in more detail.

Ways to rig sails

There are basically two ways to rig sails:

• From side to side, called Square-rigged sails - the classic pirate sails
• From front to back, called Fore-and-aft rigged sails - the modern sail rig

Almost all boats are fore-and-aft rigged nowadays.

Square sails are good for running downwind, but they're pretty useless when you're on an upwind tack. These sails were used on Viking longships, for example. Their boats were quicker downwind than the boats with fore-and-aft rigged sails, but they didn't handle as well.

The Arabs first used fore-and-aft rigged sails, making them quicker in difficult wind conditions.

Quick recap from part 1: the reason most boats are fore-and-aft rigged today is the increased maneuverability of this configuration. A square-rigged ship is only good for downwind runs, but a fore-and-aft rigged ship can sail close to the wind, using the lift to move forward.

The way the sails are attached to the mast determines the shape of the sail. The square-rigged sails are always attached the same way to the mast. The fore-and-aft rig, however, has a lot of variations.

The three main sail rigs are:

• Bermuda rig - most used - has a three-sided (triangular) mainsail
• Gaff rig - has a four-sided mainsail, the head of the mainsail is guided by a gaff
• Lateen rig - has a three-sided (triangular) mainsail on a long yard

The Bermuda is the most used, the gaff is a bit old-fashioned, and the lateen rig is outdated (about a thousand years). Lateen rigs were used by the Moors. The Bermuda rig is actually based on the Lateen rig (the Dutch got inspired by the Moors).

Other rig types that are not very common anymore are:

• Junk rig - has horizontal battens to control the sail
• Settee rig - Lateen with the front corner cut off
• Crabclaw rig

Mast configuration

Okay, we know the shape of the mainsail. Now it's time to take a look at the mast configuration. The first thing is the number of masts:

• one-masted boats
• two-masted boats
• three-masted boats
• four masts or up
• full or ship-rigged boats - also called 'ships' or 'tall ships'

I've briefly mentioned the one and two mast configurations in part 1 of this article. In this part, I'll also go over the three-masted configurations, and the tall ships as well.

A boat with one mast has a straightforward configuration because there's just one mast. You can choose to carry more sails or less, but that's about it.

A boat with two masts or more gets interesting. When you add a mast, it means you have to decide where to put the extra mast: in front, or in back of the mainmast. You can also choose whether or not the extra mast will carry an extra mainsail. The placement and size of the extra mast are important in determining what kind of boat we're dealing with. So you start by locating the largest mast, which is always the mainmast.

From front to back: the first mast is called the foremast. The middle mast is called the mainmast. And the rear mast is called the mizzenmast.

What is the mizzenmast? The mizzenmast is the aft-most (rear) mast on a sailboat with three or more masts or the mast behind the mainmast on a boat with two masts. The mizzenmast carries the mizzen sail. On a two-masted boat, the mizzenmast is always (slightly) smaller than the mainmast. What is the purpose of the mizzen sail? The mizzen sail provides more sail area and flexibility in sail plan. It can be used as a big wind rudder, helping the sailor to have more control over the stern of the ship. It pushes the stern away from the wind and forces the bow in the opposite way. This may help to bring the bow into the wind when at anchor.

I always look at the number of masts first, because this is the easiest to spot. So to make this stuff more easy to understand, I've divided up the rig types based on the number of masts below.

Why would you want more masts and sail anyways?

Good question. The biggest advantage of two masts compared to one (let's say a ketch compared to a sloop), is that it allows you to use multiple smaller sails to get the same sail area. It also allows for shorter masts.

This means you reduce the stress on the rigging and the masts, which makes the ketch rig safer and less prone to wear and tear. It also doesn't capsize as quickly. So there are a couple of real advantages of a ketch rig over a sloop rig.

In the case of one mast, we look at the number of sails it carries.

Boats with one mast can have either one sail, two sails, or three or more sails.

Most single-masted boats are sloops, which means one mast with two sails (mainsail + headsail). The extra sail increases maneuverability. The mainsail gives you control over the stern, while the headsail gives you control over the bow.

Sailor tip: you steer a boat using its sails, not using its rudder.

The one-masted rigs are:

• Cat - one mast, one sail
• Sloop - one mast, two sails
• Cutter - one mast, three or more sails

The cat is the simplest sail plan and has one mast with one sail. It's easy to handle alone, so it's very popular as a fishing boat. Most (very) small sailboats are catboats, like the Sunfish, and many Laser varieties. But it has a limited sail area and doesn't give you the control and options you have with more sails.

The most common sail plan is the sloop. It has one mast and two sails: the main and headsail. Most sloops have a Bermuda mainsail. It's one of the best racing rigs because it's able to sail very close to the wind (also called 'weatherly'). It's one of the fastest rig types for upwind sailing.

It's a simple sail plan that allows for high performance, and you can sail it short-handed. That's why most sailboats you see today are (Bermuda) sloops.

This rig is also called the Marconi rig, and it was developed by a Dutch Bermudian (or a Bermudian Dutchman) - someone from Holland who lived on Bermuda.

A cutter has three or more sails. Usually, the sail plan looks a lot like the sloop, but it has three headsails instead of one. Naval cutters can carry up to 6 sails.

Cutters have larger sail area, so they are better in light air. The partition of the sail area into more smaller sails give you more control in heavier winds as well. Cutters are considered better for bluewater sailing than sloops (although sloops will do fine also). But the additional sails just give you a bit more to play with.

Two-masted boats can have an extra mast in front or behind the mainmast. If the extra mast is behind (aft of) the mainmast, it's called a mizzenmast . If it's in front of the mainmast, it's called a foremast .

If you look at a boat with two masts and it has a foremast, it's most likely either a schooner or a brig. It's easy to recognize a foremast: the foremast is smaller than the aft mast.

If the aft mast is smaller than the front mast, it is a sail plan with a mizzenmast. That means the extra mast has been placed at the back of the boat. In this case, the front mast isn't the foremast, but the mainmast. Boats with two masts that have a mizzenmast are most likely a yawl or ketch.

The two-masted rigs are:

• Lugger - two masts (mizzen), with lugsail (a cross between gaff rig and lateen rig) on both masts
• Yawl - two masts (mizzen), fore-and-aft rigged on both masts. Main mast is much taller than mizzen. Mizzen without a mainsail.
• Ketch - two masts (mizzen), fore-and-aft rigged on both masts. Main mast with only slightly smaller mizzen. Mizzen has mainsail.
• Schooner - two masts (foremast), generally gaff rig on both masts. Main mast with only slightly smaller foremast. Sometimes build with three masts, up to seven in the age of sail.
• Bilander - two masts (foremast). Has a lateen-rigged mainsail and square-rigged sails on the foremast and topsails.
• Brig - two masts (foremast), partially square-rigged. The main mast carries small lateen-rigged sail.

The yawl has two masts that are fore-and-aft rigged and a mizzenmast. The mizzenmast is much shorter than the mainmast, and it doesn't carry a mainsail. The mizzenmast is located aft of the rudder and is mainly used to increase helm balance.

A ketch has two masts that are fore-and-aft rigged. The extra mast is a mizzenmast. It's nearly as tall as the mainmast and carries a mainsail. Usually, the mainsails of the ketch are gaff-rigged, but there are Bermuda-rigged ketches too. The mizzenmast is located in front of the rudder instead of aft, as on the yawl.

The function of the ketch's mizzen sail is different from that of the yawl. It's actually used to drive the boat forward, and the mizzen sail, together with the headsail, are sufficient to sail the ketch. The mizzen sail on a yawl can't really drive the boat forward.

Schooners have two masts that are fore-and-aft rigged. The extra mast is a foremast which is generally smaller than the mainmast, but it does carry a mainsail. Schooners are also built with a lot more masts, up to seven (not anymore). The schooner's mainsails are generally gaff-rigged.

The schooner is easy to sail but not very fast. It handles easier than a sloop, except for upwind, and it's only because of better technology that sloops are now more popular than the schooner.

The brig has two masts. The foremast is always square-rigged. The mainmast can be square-rigged or is partially square-rigged. Some brigs carry a lateen mainsail on the mainmast, with square-rigged topsails.

Some variations on the brig are:

Brigantine - two masts (foremast), partially square-rigged. Mainmast carries no square-rigged mainsail.

Hermaphrodite brig - also called half brig or schooner brig. Has two masts (foremast), partially square-rigged. Mainmast carries a gaff rig mainsail and topsail, making it half schooner.

Three-masted boats are mostly barques or schooners. Sometimes sail plans with two masts are used with more masts.

The three-masted rigs are:

• Barque - three masts, fore, and mainmast are square-rigged, the mizzenmast is usually gaff-rigged. All masts carry mainsail.
• Barquentine - three masts, foremast is square-rigged, the main and mizzenmast are fore-and-aft rigged. Also called the schooner barque.
• Polacca - three masts, foremast is square-rigged, the main and mizzenmast are lateen-rigged.
• Xebec - three masts, all masts are lateen-rigged.

A barque has three or four masts. The fore and mainmast are square-rigged, and the mizzen fore-and-aft, usually gaff-rigged. Carries a mainsail on each mast, but the mainsail shape differs per mast (square or gaff). Barques were built with up to five masts. Four-masted barques were quite common.

Barques were a good alternative to full-rigged ships because they require a lot fewer sailors. But they were also slower. Very popular rig for ocean crossings, so a great rig for merchants who travel long distances and don't want 30 - 50 sailors to run their ship.

Barquentine

The barquentine usually has three masts. The foremast is square-rigged and the main and mizzenmast fore-and-aft. The rear masts are usually gaff-rigged.

Faster than a barque or a schooner, but the performance is worse than both.

The polacca or polacre rig has three masts with a square-rigged foremast. The main and mizzenmast are lateen-rigged. Beautiful boat to see. Polacca literally means 'Polish' (it's Italian). It was a popular rig type in the Mediterranean in the 17th century. It looks like the xebec, which has three lateen-rigged masts.

Fun fact: polaccas were used by a Dutch sailor-turned-Turkish-pirate (called Murat Reis).

The xebec is a Mediterranean trading ship with three masts. All masts are lateen-rigged. I couldn't find any surviving xebecs, only models and paintings. So I guess this rig is outdated a long time.

A boat with three or more masts that all carry square-rigged sails is called a ship, a tall ship, or a full-rigged ship. So it's at this point that we start calling boats 'ships'. It has nothing to do with size but with the type of rigging.

More sails mean less stress on all of them. These ships use a lot of sails to distribute the forces, which reduces the stress on the rigging and the masts. Square sails mean double the sail area in comparison to triangular sails.

They are quite fast for their size, and they could outrun most sloops and schooners (schooners were relatively a lot heavier). The reason is that tall ships could be a lot longer than sloops, giving them a lot of extra hull speed. Sloops couldn't be as large because there weren't strong enough materials available. Try making a single triangular sail with a sail area of over 500 sq. ft. from linen.

So a lot of smaller sails made sense. You could have a large ship with a good maximum hull speed, without your sails ripping apart with every gust of wind.

But you need A LOT of sailors to sail a tall ship: about 30 sailors in total to ie. reef down sails and operate the ship. That's really a lot.

Tall ships are used nowadays for racing, with the popular tall ship races traveling the world. Every four years I go and check them out when they are at Harlingen (which is very close to where I live).

Check out the amazing ships in this video of the tall ship races last year near my hometown. (The event was organized by friends of mine).

What is the difference between a schooner and a sloop? A schooner has two masts, whereas the sloop only has one. The schooner carries more sails, with a mainsail on both masts. Also, sloops are usually Bermuda-rigged, whereas schooners are usually gaff-rigged. Most schooners also carry one or two additional headsails, in contrast to the single jib of the sloop.

What do you call a two-masted sailboat? A two-masted sailboat is most likely a yawl, ketch, schooner, or brig. To determine which one it is you have to locate the mainmast (the tallest). At the rear: schooner or brig. In front: yawl or ketch. Brigs have a square-rigged foremast, schooners don't. Ketches carry a mainsail on the rear mast; yawls don't.

What is a sloop rig? A sloop rig is a sailboat with one mast and two sails: a mainsail and headsail. It's a simple sail plan that handles well and offers good upwind performance. The sloop rig can be sailed shorthanded and is able to sail very close to the wind, making it very popular. Most recreational sailboats use a sloop rig.

What is the difference between a ketch and a yawl? The most important difference between a ketch and a yawl are the position and height of the mizzenmast. The mizzenmast on a yawl is located aft of the rudder, is shorter than the mainmast and doesn't carry a mainsail. On a ketch, it's nearly as long as the mainmast and carries a mainsail.

There are a wonderful lots of DIY changeability shows on the cable airwaves these days.

Rick the rigger

There are SO many errors on this site it really should be taken down.

First major mistake is to say you are no longer afraid of the sea.

One that truly gets up my nose is the term ‘fully’ rigged ship. It’s a FULL rigged ship!! Your mast names are the wrong way round and just because there may be 3 it doesn’t automatically mean the one in the middle is the main.

I could go on and totally destroy your over inflated but fragile ego but I won’t. All I will say is go learn a lot more before posting.

Shawn Buckles

Thanks for your feedback. If you like to point out anything more specific, please let me know and I will update the articles. I’ve changed fully-rigged to full-rigged ship - which is a typo on my part. I try to be as concise as I can, but, obviously, we all make mistakes every now and then. The great thing about the internet is that we can learn from each other and update our knowledge together.

If you want to write yourself and share your knowledge, please consider applying as a writer for my blog by clicking on the top banner.

Thanks, Shawn

Well, I feel that I’ve learned a bit from this. The information is clear and well laid out. Is it accurate? I can’t see anything at odds with the little I knew before, except that I understood a xebec has a square rigged centre mainmast, such as the Pelican ( https://www.adventureundersail.com/ )

Hi, Shawn, You forgot (failed) to mention another type of rig? The oldest type of rig known and still functions today JUNK RIG!

Why are so many of the comments here negative. I think it is wonderful to share knowledge and learn together. I knew a little about the subject (I’m an Aubrey-Maturin fan!) but still found this clarified some things for me. I can’t comment therefore on the accuracy of the article, but it seems clear to me that the spirit of the author is positive. We owe you some more bonhomme I suggest Shawn.

As they say in the Navy: “BZ” - for a good article.

Been reading S.M. Stirling and wanted to understand the ship types he references. Thank you, very helpful.

This site is an awesome starting point for anyone who would like to get an overview of the subject. I am gratefull to Shawn for sharing - Thanks & Kudos to you! If the negative reviewers want to get a deeper technical knowledge that is accurate to the n-th then go study the appropriate material. Contribute rather than destroy another’s good work. Well done Shawn. Great job!

Good stuff Shawn - very helpful. As a novice, it’s too confusing to figure out in bits and pieces. Thanks for laying it out.

First of all I have to say that Rick ‘the rigger’ is obviously the one with the “over inflated but fragile ego” and I laughed when you suggested he share his knowledge on your blog, well played!

As for the content it’s great, hope to read more soon!

Alec Lowenthal

Shawn, I have a painting of a Spanish vessel, two masted, with. Lateen sails on both masts and a jib. The mainsail is ahead of the main mast (fore) and the other is aft of the mizzen mast. Would this be what you call lugger rig? I have not seen a similar picture. Thanks, Alec.

Thank you for your article I found easy to read and understand, and more importantly remember, which emphasises the well written.. Pity about the negative comments, but love your proactive responses!

This vessel, “SEBASTIAN” out of Garrucha, Almería, España, was painted by Gustave Gillman in 1899.

Sorry, picture not accepted!

Thank you for a very informative article. I sail a bit and am always looking for more knowledge. I like the way you put forth your info and I feel if you can’t say anything positive, then that person should have their own blog or keep their opinions to their-self. I will be looking for more from you. I salute your way of dealing with negative comments.

Thank you for a great intro to sailing boats! I searched different sailboats because I use old sails tp make bags and wanted to learn the difference. Way more than I ever expected. Thanks for all the work put in to teach the rest of us.

Your description of a cutter is lacking, and your illustrations of “cutters” are actually cutter-rigged sloops. On a true cutter, the mast is moved further aft (with more than 40% of the ship forward of the mast). A sloop uses tension in the backstay to tension the luff of the foresail. The cutter can’t do this.

Also, a bermuda-rigged ketch will have a line running from the top of the mainmast to the top of the mizzenmast.

wow great guide to rig types! thanks

Interesting guide, however I am confused about the description of the brig. You say the main mast on a brig can have a lateen sail, but in your picture it looks like a gaff sail to me. How is it a lateen sail?

Hi Shawn, thank you for taking the time to share this information. It is clear and very helpful. I am new to sailing and thinking of buying my own blue water yacht. The information you have supplied is very useful. I still am seeking more information on performance and safety. Please keep up the good work. Best Regards

mickey fanelli

I’m starting to repair a model sailboat used in the lake I have three masts that have long been broken off and the sails need replacement. So my question is there a special relationship between the three masts I do have reminents of where the masts should go. they all broke off the boat along with the sails I can figure out where they go because of the old glue marks but it makes no sense. or does it really matter on a model thank you mickey

Cool, total novice here. I have learnt a lot. Thanks for sharing - the diagrams along with the text make it really easy to understand, especially for a beginner who hasn’t even stepped on a sailing boat.

Daryl Beatt

Thank you. Cleared up quite a few things for me. For example, I was familiar with the names “Xebecs” and “Polaccas” from recent reading about the Barbary War. I had gathered that the two Barbary types were better suited to sailing in the Med, but perhaps they were less able to be adaptable to military uses,(but one might assume that would be ok if one plans to board and fight, as opposed to fight a running gun duel). Specifically, the strangely one sided August 1, 1801 battle between the USS Enterprise under Lt. John Sterett and the Polacca cruiser Tripoli under Admiral Rais Mahomet Rous. On paper both ships seemed nearly equal in size, guns and crew, but pictures of the battle are confusing. While the Enterprise is usually rendered as the familiar schooner, the polacca Tripoli has been pictured in radically different ways. Thus the Wikipedia picture by Hoff in 1878 used to illustrate the Battle shows a Brig design for Tripoli, indicating 77 years later, polaccas were no longer common.

Lee Christiansen

I am curious as to what you would call a modern race boat with a fractional jib,not equipped for full masthead hoist? Thanks Lee

Thanks Guy: The information and pictures really eliminate a lot of the mystery of the terminology and the meanings. Also appreciate the insight of the handling idiosyncrasies “hand” (staff) requirements to manage a vessel for one that has not been on the water much. I long to spend significant time afloat, but have concern about the ability to handle a vessel due to advancing age. The Significant Other prefers to sit (in AC comfort)and be entertained by parties of cruise line employees. Thanks again for the information.

Gordon Smith

Your discussion made no mention of the galleon, a vessel with either square-rigged Fore and Main masts and a shorter lateen-rigged Mizzen, or, on larger galleons, square-rigged Fore and Main masts, with a lateen-rigged Mizzen and a lateen-rigged Bonaventure mast, both shorter than either the Fore or Main masts. Also, it was not uncommon for a galleon to hoist a square-rigged bowsprit topsail in addition to the usual square-rigged spritsail.

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The Standing Rigging On A Sailboat Explained

The standing rigging on a sailboat is a system of stainless steel wires that holds the mast upright and supports the spars.

In this guide, I’ll explain the basics of a sailboat’s hardware and rigging, how it works, and why it is a fundamental and vital part of the vessel. We’ll look at the different parts of the rig, where they are located, and their function.

We will also peek at a couple of different types of rigs and their variations to determine their differences. In the end, I will explain some additional terms and answer some practical questions I often get asked.

But first off, it is essential to understand what standing rigging is and its purpose on a sailboat.

The purpose of the standing rigging

Like I said in the beginning, the standing rigging on a sailboat is a system of stainless steel wires that holds the mast upright and supports the spars. When sailing, the rig helps transfer wind forces from the sails to the boat’s structure. This is critical for maintaining the stability and performance of the vessel.

The rig can also consist of other materials, such as synthetic lines or steel rods, yet its purpose is the same. But more on that later.

Since the rig supports the mast, you’ll need to ensure that it is always in appropriate condition before taking your boat out to sea. Let me give you an example from a recent experience.

Dismasting horrors

I had a company inspect the entire rig on my sailboat while preparing for an Atlantic crossing. The rigger didn’t find any issues, but I decided to replace the rig anyway because of its unknown age. I wanted to do the job myself so I could learn how it is done correctly.

Not long after, we left Gibraltar and sailed through rough weather for eight days before arriving in Las Palmas. We were safe and sound and didn’t experience any issues. Unfortunately, several other boats arriving before us had suffered rig failures. They lost their masts and sails—a sorrowful sight but also a reminder of how vital the rigging is on a sailboat.

The most common types of rigging on a sailboat

The most commonly used rig type on modern sailing boats is the fore-and-aft Bermuda Sloop rig with one mast and just one headsail. Closely follows the Cutter rig and the Ketch rig. They all have a relatively simple rigging layout. Still, there are several variations and differences in how they are set up.

A sloop has a single mast, and the Ketch has one main mast and an additional shorter mizzen mast further aft. A Cutter rig is similar to the Bermuda Sloop with an additional cutter forestay, allowing it to fly two overlapping headsails.

You can learn more about the differences and the different types of sails they use in this guide. For now, we’ll focus on the Bermuda rig.

The difference between standing rigging and running rigging

Sometimes things can get confusing as some of our nautical terms are used for multiple items depending on the context. Let me clarify just briefly:

The  rig  or  rigging  on a sailboat is a common term for two parts:

• The  standing rigging  consists of wires supporting the mast on a sailboat and reinforcing the spars from the force of the sails when sailing.
• The  running rigging  consists of the halyards, sheets, and lines we use to hoist, lower, operate, and control the sails on a sailboat.

Check out my guide on running rigging here !

The difference between a fractional and a masthead rig

A Bermuda rig is split into two groups. The  Masthead  rig and the  Fractional  rig.

The  Masthead  rig has a forestay running from the bow to the top of the mast, and the spreaders point 90 degrees to the sides. A boat with a masthead rig typically carries a bigger overlapping headsail ( Genoa)  and a smaller mainsail. Very typical on the Sloop, Ketch, and Cutter rigs.

A  Fractional  rig has forestays running from the bow to 1/4 – 1/8 from the top of the mast, and the spreaders are swept backward. A boat with a fractional rig also has the mast farther forward than a masthead rig, a bigger mainsail, and a smaller headsail, usually a Jib. Very typical on more performance-oriented sailboats.

There are exceptions in regards to the type of headsail, though. Many performance cruisers use a Genoa instead of a Jib , making the difference smaller.

Some people also fit an inner forestay, or a babystay, to allow flying a smaller staysail.

Explaining the parts and hardware of the standing rigging

The rigging on a sailing vessel relies on stays and shrouds in addition to many hardware parts to secure the mast properly. And we also have nautical terms for each of them. Since a system relies on every aspect of it to be in equally good condition, we want to familiarize ourselves with each part and understand its function.

Forestay and Backstay

The  forestay  is a wire that runs from the bow to the top of the mast. Some boats, like the Cutter rig, can have several additional inner forestays in different configurations.

The  backstay  is the wire that runs from the back of the boat to the top of the mast. Backstays have a tensioner, often hydraulic, to increase the tension when sailing upwind. Some rigs, like the Cutter, have running backstays and sometimes checkstays or runners, to support the rig.

The primary purpose of the forestay and backstay is to prevent the mast from moving fore and aft. The tensioner on the backstay also allows us to trim and tune the rig to get a better shape of the sails.

The shrouds are the wires or lines used on modern sailboats and yachts to support the mast from sideways motion.

There are usually four shrouds on each side of the vessel. They are connected to the side of the mast and run down to turnbuckles attached through toggles to the chainplates bolted on the deck.

• Cap shrouds run from the top of the mast to the deck, passing through the tips of the upper spreaders.
• Intermediate shrouds  run from the lower part of the mast to the deck, passing through the lower set of spreaders.
• Lower shrouds  are connected to the mast under the first spreader and run down to the deck – one fore and one aft on each side of the boat.

This configuration is called continuous rigging. We won’t go into the discontinuous rigging used on bigger boats in this guide, but if you are interested, you can read more about it here .

Shroud materials

Shrouds are usually made of 1 x 19 stainless steel wire. These wires are strong and relatively easy to install but are prone to stretch and corrosion to a certain degree. Another option is using stainless steel rods.

Rod rigging

Rod rigging has a stretch coefficient lower than wire but is more expensive and can be intricate to install. Alternatively, synthetic rigging is becoming more popular as it weighs less than wire and rods.

Synthetic rigging

Fibers like Dyneema and other aramids are lightweight and provide ultra-high tensile strength. However, they are expensive and much more vulnerable to chafing and UV damage than other options. In my opinion, they are best suited for racing and regatta-oriented sailboats.

Wire rigging

I recommend sticking to the classic 316-graded stainless steel wire rigging for cruising sailboats. It is also the most reasonable of the options. If you find yourself in trouble far from home, you are more likely to find replacement wire than another complex rigging type.

Relevant terms on sailboat rigging and hardware

The spreaders are the fins or wings that space the shrouds away from the mast. Most sailboats have at least one set, but some also have two or three. Once a vessel has more than three pairs of spreaders, we are probably talking about a big sailing yacht.

A turnbuckle is the fitting that connects the shrouds to the toggle and chainplate on the deck. These are adjustable, allowing you to tension the rig.

A chainplate is a metal plate bolted to a strong point on the deck or side of the hull. It is usually reinforced with a backing plate underneath to withstand the tension from the shrouds.

The term mast head should be distinct from the term masthead rigging. Out of context, the mast head is the top of the mast.

A toggle is a hardware fitting to connect the turnbuckles on the shrouds and the chainplate.

How tight should the standing rigging be?

It is essential to periodically check the tension of the standing rigging and make adjustments to ensure it is appropriately set. If the rig is too loose, it allows the mast to sway excessively, making the boat perform poorly.

You also risk applying a snatch load during a tack or a gybe which can damage the rig. On the other hand, if the standing rigging is too tight, it can strain the rig and the hull and lead to structural failure.

The standing rigging should be tightened enough to prevent the mast from bending sideways under any point of sail. If you can move the mast by pulling the cap shrouds by hand, the rigging is too loose and should be tensioned. Once the cap shrouds are tightened, follow up with the intermediates and finish with the lower shrouds. It is critical to tension the rig evenly on both sides.

The next you want to do is to take the boat out for a trip. Ensure that the mast isn’t bending over to the leeward side when you are sailing. A little movement in the leeward shrouds is normal, but they shouldn’t swing around. If the mast bends to the leeward side under load, the windward shrouds need to be tightened. Check the shrouds while sailing on both starboard and port tack.

Once the mast is in a column at any point of sail, your rigging should be tight and ready for action.

If you feel uncomfortable adjusting your rig, get a professional rigger to inspect and reset it.

How often should the standing rigging be replaced on a sailboat?

I asked the rigger who produced my new rig for Ellidah about how long I could expect my new rig to last, and he replied with the following:

The standing rigging should be replaced after 10 – 15 years, depending on how hard and often the boat has sailed. If it is well maintained and the vessel has sailed conservatively, it will probably last more than 20 years. However, corrosion or cracked strands indicate that the rig or parts are due for replacement regardless of age.

If you plan on doing extended offshore sailing and don’t know the age of your rig, I recommend replacing it even if it looks fine. This can be done without removing the mast from the boat while it is still in the water.

How much does it cost to replace the standing rigging?

The cost of replacing the standing rigging will vary greatly depending on the size of your boat and the location you get the job done. For my 41 feet sloop, I did most of the installation myself and paid approximately $4700 for the entire rig replacement.

Can Dyneema be used for standing rigging?

Dyneema is a durable synthetic fiber that can be used for standing rigging. Its low weight, and high tensile strength makes it especially popular amongst racers. Many cruisers also carry Dyneema onboard as spare parts for failing rigging.

How long does dyneema standing rigging last?

Dyneema rigging can outlast wire rigging if it doesn’t chafe on anything sharp. There are reports of Dyneema rigging lasting as long as 15 years, but manufacturers like Colligo claim their PVC shrink-wrapped lines should last 8 to 10 years. You can read more here .

Final words

Congratulations! By now, you should have a much better understanding of standing rigging on a sailboat. We’ve covered its purpose and its importance for performance and safety. While many types of rigs and variations exist, the hardware and concepts are often similar. Now it’s time to put your newfound knowledge into practice and set sail!

Or, if you’re not ready just yet, I recommend heading over to my following guide to learn more about running rigging on a sailboat.

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Skipper, Electrician and ROV Pilot

Robin is the founder and owner of Sailing Ellidah and has been living on his sailboat since 2019. He is currently on a journey to sail around the world and is passionate about writing his story and helpful content to inspire others who share his interest in sailing.

Very well written. Common sense layout with just enough photos and sketches. I enjoyed reading this article.

Thank you for the kind words.

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Practical Sailor Tracks Down the Best LED Tri-color Light

Testers take a look at six bulbs and lanterns from the marine led navigation light market..

When it comes to navigation lights aboard sailboats, brighter is definitely better. And our latest tests of LED nav lights proved that more light can be made with less energy. In fact, we found that replacing a conventional incandescent bulb with a light-emitting diode (LED) of similar luminosity can result in up to a 90-percent savings in energy consumed over a given period of time.

Practical Sailor’ s previous evaluations of navigation lights (September 2005 and Jan. 15, 2002) were tests of tri-color

Photos by Ralph Naranjo

masthead lights, sidelights, sternlights, and all-around white lights.

For this review, we narrowed the test field and focused solely on LED tri-color navigation lights (sidelights and a stern light combined in a single fixture) because of the under-sail connotation. They are most often used when the engine is off and the alternator(s) is providing no energy boost to the battery bank. This is when miserly current consumption is most appreciated.

LED lights come in all sizes and shapes, and it has been their monumental improvement in efficiency that has made the technology so appealing to energy-constrained sailors.

In the past, the most popular means of meeting the U.S. Coast Guard’s navigation light requirements for boats under 65 feet (see “Nav Light Requirements,” below) was to use an Aqua Signal Series 40 tri-color lamp housing with its long-filament incandescent bulb. Its 25-watt energy appetite not only puts a significant load on the house battery bank, but it requires a heavier-gauge wire be run up the spar in order to avoid an energy-robbing voltage drop. Swapping out the incandescent bulb for an LED drops power consumption significantly and yields just as bright of a light. During a 10-hour night sail, this results in reducing current consumption from about 20 amp-hours down to a scan’t 2 amp-hours. This savings adds up, and the extra cost of the LED bulb or light will pay for itself in longevity and energy savings.

LED Evolution

Since the late 1960s, LEDs have followed a trend that amounts to almost a doubling of light output every 36 months. (If Wall Street had done the same, a $100 investment made in 1969 would today be worth over $500,000.)

Skipping all the esoteric physics and getting down to basics leaves us with one important concept to grasp: By passing a current through certain semiconductors (materials with only a few electron holes), the electron flow instigates photon release—or more simply put, light energy is emitted. Modern LEDs comprise an anode (+) and cathode (-) that meet in a tiny cup-like reflector that contains an “n” and a “p” layer of semiconductor material.

In order to achieve white or colored light, phosphor coatings are used. Another significant breakthrough was the prism-like lens and epoxy-sealed cavity that bundles up many of these semiconductors. The resulting “bulb” reflects and refracts the light energy produced, delivering a color-controlled beam. The plasma-like brilliance of a single-source light creates lens and reflector challenges that each light manufacturer has to deal

with. Some makers shape a single beam with lens elements while others use an array of multiple smaller LEDs.

What We Tested

Each of the six LED tri-color masthead lights we tested for this report took a different approach to implementing the LED technology. The test field included three LED lanterns and three LED bulbs.

From Orca Green Marine (OGM), maker of the top choice among tri-colors in the 2005 Practical Sailor test, we reviewed the latest USCG 2-nautical-mile approved tri-color. The other tested lanterns were self-contained tri-color/anchor light combos from Signal Mate and Lopolight.

Among the bulbs we tested was the Lunasea, a sealed, waterproof LED lamp comprising four green, six red, and six white LEDs. From the LED Shop in Queensland, Australia, we tested the Bay15D white LED bulb with 15 diodes. The supplier recommends its use as a low-consumption (2 watts vs. 25 watts) replacement bulb for the Aqua Signal 40 incandescent. The second sealed bulb we tested was from Dr. LED, and it is third-party certified to U.S. Coast Guard standards.

LED LANTERNS

Boat owners who don’t already have a masthead tri-color light, or who plan to replace an old one—hardware and all—would do well to consider an LED lantern.

Orca Green Marine

OGM Inc.’s USCG-approved (third-party tested) tri-color/anchor light (LXTA-12v) squeezes an amazing amount of light from a minimal amount of current (0.3 amps @ 12 volts-DC).

The well-sealed, nicely machined housing and large lenses keep the LEDs in direct line of sight, regardless of heel or the viewer’s proximity. Hard, anodized endcaps and Lexan outer lens elements form a tough, water-tight seal. Its internal

electronic components are potted in a dielectric sealant, and the lantern comes with a well-sealed pigtail connector.

The manufacturer claims a 50,000-hour full brightness LED life and offers a two-year warranty on the $340 lantern.

Testers’ main concern that arose during testing was that the OGM lantern produced the most RFI of all the gear we tested. Moving the handheld VHF radio to within 14 inches of the light obliterated radio reception.

Bottom line: The OGM lantern is the least expensive in its category, and it proved to be a well-made light. However, its RFI test results held it back.

This expensive, well-designed, and carefully manufactured LED tri-color/anchor light offers a multiple diode approach to illuminating each sector of coverage. The lamp’s geometry focuses individual LEDs in narrower beams and uses 36 to cover each colored zone and 44 in the white zone. In addition to adding redundancy with circuitry that allows individual diodes to fail without taking out the entire cluster, the design eliminated the hotspot inherent in tri-color lights that use single-point light sources for each sector.

This light offers a green that’s really green (see “Shades of Green,” page 14), a dead-ahead aspect with minimal overlap, and a crisp transition to the red zone. The Lopolight also sports a rugged, well-sealed housing that’s fully submersible.

Its current consumption is a tiny bit more than the most energy efficient in this group, but the value of having the light continue to work even if one or more diodes give up the ghost is a big plus.

At $689, the Lopolight was the most expensive product of all those we tested, but it also had the least RFI. It comes with a five-year warranty.

Bottom line: If quality construction and superior performance are your priorities—and cost isn’t a concern—the Lopolight will fit the bill. It gets the nod as Practical Sailor’s Best Choice.

Signal Mate

Signal Mate products are designed and manufactured by Maryland-based Kimberlite Assemblers Inc. The company sent us a pre-production version of its 2-nautical-mile tri-color lantern for testing.

The searing bright lantern scored high marks for energy efficiency. Its 0.3 amp draw at 12 volts DC compared to some of the more expensive lanterns.

The Signal Mate incorporates a finned alloy base that functions

as a heat sink and houses the driver and diodes within a polycarbonate cylindrical tube. Its endcaps and electronics are sealed and bedded in Dow Tough Gel.

Its cylindrical shape makes it well suited for masthead mounting. The light output did not appear hampered at all by the unit’s comparably small lenses, even at varying angles of heel.

The design, with a single light source per sector, created a white hotspot, but from 50 to 100 yards away, it was undetectable. Hotspots, a bright white spot that occurs when a single-point white light source illuminates a colored faceted lens, are common to this design.

Just before going to press with this review, Signal Mate sent us its new production version of this lamp. Like the pre-production unit, the LED circuitry is enclosed in a polycarbonate cylinder, but it now incorporates O-ring seals and 3M 5200 adhesive to better cope with thermal expansion and contraction. Heat dissipation and RFI suppression have been improved, and the overall fit and finish have been raised a notch. The light is certified to USCG and American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC)-16 standards.

Bottom line: The $359 Signal Mate tri-color is a cost-effective option with a good five-year warranty, and the new version boasts some necessary improvements.

The new breed of LED bulbs can add efficiency to those old Aqua Signal, Hella, and Perko incandescent nav lights that have been serving boats for decades. These plug-and-play conversions from incandescent to much more efficient LED technology are capturing market share, and the degree of this success has inspired Aqua Signal to come out with its own single-diode LED light and a new line of LED products. For those with older lamps such as the venerable Aqua Signal 40 tri-color, the following three bulb options represent good examples of what’s available in the realm of LED conversions.

The Dr. LED Polar Star 40 replacement bulb for the Aqua Signal 40 lantern comes with an interesting note. According to the Seattle firm, “a white LED should not be used behind colored lenses.” And to that end, its LED replacement bulb has three distinct color-enhanced sectors indigenous to the bulb itself. These are not stand-alone red, green, and white sectors, but instead are color-enhancing segments that ensure that red is red and green is a bright and deep shade of green. This reduced the bulb’s hotspot.

The bulb is designed in the U.S., made in China, and meets the 2-nautical-mile visibility, chromaticity, and other demands of the ABYC/USCG standards. It was the lowest current-consuming light in our test (0.1 amps), and though not the

brightest, it was visible and color recognizable at the 2-mile range.

Bottom line: Middle of the pack price-wise, this $50 current miser gets a Practical Sailor Budget Buy among LED bulbs for conversions.

Lunasea Lights

This well-sealed, wedge shaped, waterproof bulb uses separate LEDs for each color zone. The red sector held six LEDs, and the green four. Light-meter readings indicated that the red sector was a bit brighter than the green sector during tests. At distances beyond 100 yards, the discrepancy was not noticeable visually. Both segments could be seen at the 2-nautical-mile range.

This bulb seemed to only need a clear housing because of the excellent chromaticity match, but without being placed in a tri-lens housing, it had a rather large overlap of red and green. We noted that the red and green (bow-on aspect) covered an arc of more than 20 degrees. But by placing the tri-color lens over the bulb, the overlap was brought into an acceptable 10-degree range, creating a bright, very distinguishable tri-color light.

The Lunasea bulb was the only one in its group with the ability to keep shining even if one of the multiple diodes failed.

Bottom line: One of the brightest LEDs tested, the Lunasea light gets the Practical Sailor Recommended pick among bulbs for its top performance and lifetime warranty, the only test product to offer one.

Distributed by the Australia-based LED Shop, the white BAY-15D bulb we tested was a cluster of 15 diodes in pentagonal array of three vertical diodes per segment. This bright-white light makes a superb anchor light, and the LED Shop also recommends it as a replacement bulb for the Aqua Signal Series 40 tri-color light.

In our testing, it provided a bright red and green sector, but its colors were not as saturated as the color-specific bulbs by Dr. LED and Lunasea.

Testers’ biggest concern was the fact the bulb isn’t properly sealed. This does afford better heat dissipation, a key factor in LED longevity, but we prefer sealed bulbs.

However, the BAY-15D’s $27 price tag, its brightness and

minimal RFI make it a bargain as an anchor light bulb.

Bottom line: Although inexpensive and a good performer, the BAY-15D was held back by its lack of a good seal.

• Nav Light Requirements
• How We Tested
• Practical Sailor Value Guide: Led Tri-Color Masthead Lights
• Shades of Green
• View PDF Format

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

Which version of the OGM was tested for this review?

It would be helpful if you added the part numbers of the specific product that you’re testing. For example, when I went to the Lopolight website, I couldn’t find the product you tested. I’m a little disappointed that you didn’t test any trilights with the strobe or flash function. Perhaps I’ll keep my 20-year old Hella.

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US Spars takes pride in excellent customer service for Business or Individual customers. Please take advantage of our online ordering and fast shipping for all of your small part needs using our easy to use boat look-up to find your boat model and view a diagram with part numbers for easy ordering. For quotes on special orders please use our easy to use quote page for a speedy response.

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Five Oceans Combination Masthead and Deck Light, LED Masthead Deck Spreader Light, 12V, Vertical Mount for Sailboat - FO3837

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Light Source Type LED Voltage 12 Volts About this item HIGH-PERFORMANCE LED: Masthead Light - Feature 14 Super Bright White LEDs. Deck Light - Feature a Super Bright MR16-12 LED G4 type. Working Voltage: 12V DC. Wattage: 0.5W Masthead Light, 1.5W Deck Light. Amperage Draw: 0.25A. LED Lifetime: 100,000 hours DURABLE MARINE GRADE MATERIALS: Design of Solid Marine Grade Polycarbonate Housing and Lens. The polycarbonate housing is shock-resistant, non-corrosive, non-magnetic, and seawater resistant. Waterproof: IP65 EASY INSTALLATION: Flexible side mounting flaps allow vertical mounting on a wide range of masts. Mounting Procedure for Smaller Diameter Masts - Fit Up to 3 Inches Minimum Mast Wide, this will prevent an open gap in the sides of the masthead light portion of the fixture WIDE APPLICATION: This Light is designed to be wrapped around the front of the mast to light the deck and be the spreader light required at night. Meets the 2 NM Rule and it is recommended for Vessels up to 40 Feet MEASUREMENTS: 6 3/4 Inch (171mm) L, 6 1/2 Inch (165mm) H, 3/4 Inch (70mm) D. Pre-wired Red, Black, and White Cord, Certificate CE, and RoHS. Vertical Surface Mount. Mounting Hardware: 2 Pre-drilled Mounting Holes Additional Details Frequently bought together Similar items that ship from close to you From the brand Visit the Store Deck Accessories Boat Lifestyle and Accessories Maintenance At Five Oceans, we are passionate enthusiasts of the incredible on-board experiences, be it sailing, fishing, cruising or practicing water sports. With over 40 years of expertise and an unbridled love for marine activities, we provide a vast selection of products for all boat owners. We understand the need for dependable, cost-effective, and premium-quality products that boaters and their families can trust. Product Description Technical specifications. Voltage 12V DC Wattage 0.5W Masthead Light, 1.5W Deck Light LED Lifetime 100000 Hours IP Rating 65 Material Marine Grade Polycarbonate Housing and Lens LED Masthead Light: 14 Super Bright White LEDs. Deck Light: MR16-12 LED G4 type Visibility 2 NM MEASUREMENTS & MOUNTING Lenght 6 3/4 Inch (171mm) Height 6 1/2 Inch (165mm) Mounting Type Vertical Surface Mount Mounting Hardware 2 Pre-drilled Mounting Holes Product information Technical details. Brand ‎Five Oceans Color ‎black Specific Uses For Product ‎Boat Masthead Lights Vehicle Service Type ‎Boat Special Feature ‎Waterproof Wattage ‎5 watts Auto Part Position ‎Front Lens Color ‎clear Lens Material ‎Polycarbonate UPC ‎730792823937 Manufacturer ‎Five Oceans Item Weight ‎8.9 ounces Package Dimensions ‎10.51 x 8.27 x 4.17 inches Is Discontinued By Manufacturer ‎No Manufacturer Part Number ‎4333805787 Special Features ‎Waterproof Additional Information ASIN B01CZ33IGW Customer Reviews 4.1 out of 5 stars Best Sellers Rank #366,373 in Sports & Outdoors ( ) #544 in Date First Available March 14, 2016 Warranty & Support Amazon.com Return Policy: You can return many items you have purchased within 30 days following delivery of the item to you. Our Voluntary 30-Day Return Guarantee does not affect your legal right of withdrawal in any way. You can find out more about the exceptions and conditions . Fields with an asterisk * are required : : : Enter the store name where you found this product : Please select province : to provide feedback. \n' + ' ' ); } function getThankYouDiv(thankMsg) { return ( ' \n' + ' ' ); } function getLoadingGifDiv() { return ' Compare with similar items Price $69.00$69.00 $52.90$52.90 $14.99$14.99 -7% $25.99$25.99 List: $27.99 $36.19$36.19 $49.99$49.99 Delivery Customer Ratings 139 4 156 1,616 6 396 Sold By compatible vehicles light source type lens color lens material voltage model number auto part orientation Looking for specific info? Customer reviews. 5 star 4 star 3 star 2 star 1 star 5 star 62% 17% 6% 5% 11% 62% 5 star 4 star 3 star 2 star 1 star 4 star 62% 17% 6% 5% 11% 17% 5 star 4 star 3 star 2 star 1 star 3 star 62% 17% 6% 5% 11% 6% 5 star 4 star 3 star 2 star 1 star 2 star 62% 17% 6% 5% 11% 5% 5 star 4 star 3 star 2 star 1 star 1 star 62% 17% 6% 5% 11% 11% Customer Reviews, including Product Star Ratings help customers to learn more about the product and decide whether it is the right product for them. To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. It also analyzed reviews to verify trustworthiness. Customers say Customers like the brightness, functionality, and ease of installation of the product. They mention it's a great light for low electric consumption, has plenty of LEDs, and is easy to install. Some say it'll be good value for money. However, some customers dislike the flexibility and screw placement. Opinions are mixed on the durability. AI-generated from the text of customer reviews Customers like the brightness of the product. They mention it's easy to wire up, has a low electric consumption, and is a high-quality light. "... Lights are bright . Only been up a week so we'll see how it lasts...." Read more "Was able to hook it up to existing wiring without any problems. Very bright . Appears durable for marine use." Read more "... Steaming light is bright and the deck light is great!" Read more "...After a little over a year, the LED's went bad . I would not recommend this light." Read more Customers like the functionality of the product. They mention it works well and the lights are bright. "...I used a heat gun to bend the tabs to fit my mast and have not had any issues with it ...." Read more "Easy install and works just as they said . Brighter than I expected." Read more "...The light DOESN'T WORK without a bulb ! Very poor Customer Service." Read more "So far so good... seems to be working fine ...time will tell if it holds up...but for the price, I'm pretty content so far" Read more Customers find the installation of the product easy. "...the flaps to my mast...but that took 60 seconds per side and was very easy to do . Lights are bright. Only been up a week so we'll see how it lasts...." Read more " Easy install and works just as they said. Brighter than I expected." Read more "It's a good light, easy to wire up and modestly bright, but the lights are different color!..." Read more " Easy to install " Read more Customers appreciate the value for money of the product. They mention it's a cheap item that you can get for half the price under other brands. "A big plus for having an LED deck light, and for being sold at a reasonable price compared to Aqua Signal which is the exact same thing as this for..." Read more " Cost effective replacement for more expensive units..." Read more " Great for the price ..." Read more " Best bang for buck !..." Read more Customers have mixed opinions about the durability of the product. Some mention the quality is superior to the one it's replacing, while others say the construction is pretty poor and the longevity is questionable. "...Very bright. Appears durable for marine use ." Read more "The light I received did not last very long . After a little over a year, the LED's went bad. I would not recommend this light." Read more " Nice product . Best installed on a very hot day or with a heat gun as the wings must be bent to fit the mast...." Read more "...Only 3 stars though because (a) these things are so flimsy and cheaply made, and (b) it can not be made to fit smaller masts...." Read more Customers are dissatisfied with the flexibility of the product. They mention the flanges to wrap the mast are not flexible enough, and the light housing doesn't flex enough to really conform to the mast. Customers also say it's hard to bend the ears without distorting the body. "...There was plenty of room on the C22. Bending the ears was really hard to do without distorting the body...." Read more "...on smaller boats (mine is 22 feet long) the light housing does not flex enough to really conform to the mast without bending the housing and..." Read more "The fastening flanges to wrap the mast are not flexible enough to wrap a 6" mast. Causing the mounting bracket to pull away from the fixture...." Read more Customers are dissatisfied with the screw placement of the vehicle light assembly. They mention the screws are not in the same place as they would expect and the centerline screws prevent a flush install. "...I will agree that there are a couple screws on the back that do have the points out JUST far enough that, depending on mounting, could contact the..." Read more "...The screws are not in the same place as you would expect and the housing will snap if you bend the ears to fit around most masts. Returned." Read more " centerline screws prevent flush install ..." Read more Customers are dissatisfied with the size of the product. They mention it's cheaply made and can't be made to fit smaller masts. "...these things are so flimsy and cheaply made, and (b) it can not be made to fit smaller masts ...." Read more "Good light. Not for small boats ...." Read more " Will not fit on standard sail boat masts ..." Read more Reviews with images Sort reviews by Top reviews Most recent Top reviews Top reviews from the United States There was a problem filtering reviews right now. please try again later.. 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Mains, Headsails, Spinnakers, Storm jibs & Trysails. New Mains & Genoas in stock for Catalina Yachts. Masthead Enterprises has sold over 16,000 Headsails, Main and Spinnakers over the last 30 years. We recently acquired all of Catalina Yachts surplus from their in house sail loft. We have new never used mains and Genoas that range in size from the Catalina 12.5 to the Catalina 470 and Catalina Morgan 50.  We also have plenty of used sails in a variety of conditions to fit your sailing budget. If you are looking for a Spinnaker, headsail or mainsail, but not sure how to pick one out, then you can either contact us through email or call on the phone. Here’s a link to our Measure your boat page. https://mastheadsailinggear.com/measure-for-used-sails/ Also the Sailboat Rig dimension table can provide you with the dimensions you need. https://mastheadsailinggear.com/sailboat-rig-dimension-table/ Showing 1–12 of 745 results Headsail (207) Spinnaker (381) Storm Sails (11) 388 IMAGES From the masthead editorial stock image. Image of sailboat Close Up View of the Mast Head of a Sailboat. Stock Image Sailing Boat Mast Free Stock Photo Know-how: Modern Rigs 101 Know-how: Modern Rigs 101 Sailboat Mast: Everything You Need To Know VIDEO Five Minute Install for Smart Tanks Surf Foil Mast Sizes Sailboat Mast Inspection [Drone Style] BAVARIA C57 Masthead And Halyard Sheave Pin: A Better Solution Harstad 31 sailboat exterior walkthrough COMMENTS Sailboat Mast Guide: Types, Maintenance, and Upgrades Components of a Sailboat Mast. To understand mast maintenance better, it's essential to know the various components of a sailboat mast. The key parts include the masthead, spreaders, shrouds, and halyard sheaves. Masthead. The masthead is the topmost section of the mast, where the halyards are attached to raise and lower the sails. Dwyer Mast & Rigging Quality Sailboat Masts, Booms, Hardware and Rigging Since 1963. Dwyer Mast & Rigging manufactures high-quality sailboat masts, booms, hardware, and rigging. Originally founded in 1963 as Dwyer Aluminum Mast Company, the legacy continues as an OEM supplier by taking advantage of improved manufacturing methods to offer a wide range of products ... Rig-Rite Inc. Since 1961, RIG-RITE has engineered, manufactured and distributed Spars, Rigging and Hardware Systems for Sailboats. RIG-RITE stocks the largest variety of related Systems and Hardware available anywhere, Specializing in original replacement parts for Systems on yachts built the world over. Spars - Masts, Booms, Spreaders, Spinnaker Poles ... Discover the Best Wind Vanes for Sailboats Improve sailing performance with a wind indicator for your sailboat. A sailboat's wind vane, also called a spar or masthead fly, shows in real-time the direction of the apparent wind, which you can use to trim your sails and sail most efficiently. Available in a variety of sizes, wind direction tools are a must for sailboats and sailing dinghies. Sailboat Mast: A Comprehensive Guide to Understanding and Maintaining A sailboat mast is a vertical pole or spar that supports the sails of a sailboat. It provides structural stability and allows for adjustment of the sail position to effectively harness wind power. Typically made of aluminum or carbon fiber, mast design varies based on boat size, sailing conditions, and intended use. Sail Boat Masts: The Essential Guide for Smooth Sailing Ah, the graceful dance of a sailboat gliding across the open waters.Few things embody the feeling of freedom and adventure quite like sailing.And at the heart of every sailboat lies a crucial component that often goes unnoticed - the mast. In this comprehensive guide, we aim to unveil the mysterious world of sailboat masts, providing you with a deeper understanding as well as some witty ... Masthead Enterprises Home Page Masthead Sailing Gear is a worldwide provider of used and new sails. We make it easy to find the right sail for you and your budget. Click on Used and New Sails to search our inventory or simply give us a call for a personalized sail listing. At Masthead, we combine decades of experience in the marine industry with sailing time on the water to ... Top-notch Wind Indicators Although a masthead indicator is the norm, a deck-level indicator also offers advantages. Non-sailing crew appreciates them when asked to turn the boat into or away from the wind while hoisting or dousing the sail, for anchoring, or, in reality, any turn at the wheel when a steady course relative to the wind is required. fractional vs. masthead rigged, pros and cons? Honestly, rigged correctly the masthead rigs will allow mast bend, proportionately the masthead is harder to get bend out of versus a fractional, that means it's harder to depower with just that one adjustment. I personally am leaning towards liking the masthead better, the more I sail the Capri 25. Sailboat Masts: A Comprehensive Guide to Choosing the Perfect Mast Sailboat Mast Maintenance: Expert Tips and Tricks . Sailboat Mast Maintenance: Expert Tips and Tricks. Ah, the open sea, the sound of waves crashing against the hull, the wind gently guiding your sailboat across the water. There's something incredibly liberating about being out on the water with nothing but your boat and the elements. But ... Sailboat Hardware Melges 24 Parts and Deck Hardware. Melges 24 Running Rigging. Melges 24 Standing Rigging. Optimist Sailboat Parts. Santana 20 Sailboat Parts. Santana 20 Adjustable Backstay Components. Santana 20 Adjustable Checkstay Components. Santana 20 Genoa & Jib Sheeting Systems. Santana 20 Mainsheet Traveler. Guide to Understanding Sail Rig Types (with Pictures) The two-masted rigs are: Lugger - two masts (mizzen), with lugsail (a cross between gaff rig and lateen rig) on both masts. Yawl - two masts (mizzen), fore-and-aft rigged on both masts. Main mast is much taller than mizzen. Mizzen without a mainsail. Ketch - two masts (mizzen), fore-and-aft rigged on both masts. The Standing Rigging On A Sailboat Explained The difference between a fractional and a masthead rig. A Bermuda rig is split into two groups. The Masthead rig and the Fractional rig.. The Masthead rig has a forestay running from the bow to the top of the mast, and the spreaders point 90 degrees to the sides.A boat with a masthead rig typically carries a bigger overlapping headsail (Genoa) and a smaller mainsail. Boat Clinic: Tuning the Masthead Rig Tuning the rig of a boat is one of the necessary -and pleasant -tasks which must be done to achieve good performance. In an untuned boat, the mast bends in odd ways, and this in turn causes the sails to set badly. By contrast, on a well tuned boat, the rig bends in a controlled fashion, allowing the sails to do their best.For this reason, an avid racer will be constantly fiddling with the tune ... Know-how: Modern Rigs 101 A masthead rig had its forestay pinned to the top of the mast and had straight spreaders. If the boat was designed to a racing rule (as most were), it had large overlapping headsails and a tall, skinny main. A boat with a fractional rig, on the other hand, had its forestay attached 3/4 to 7/8 of the distance from the cabintop to masthead, had ... Practical Sailor Tracks Down the Best LED Tri-color Light Practical Sailor' s previous evaluations of navigation lights (September 2005 and Jan. 15, 2002) were tests of tri-color Photos by Ralph Naranjo. 288. masthead lights, sidelights, sternlights, and all-around white lights. For this review, we narrowed the test field and focused solely on LED tri-color navigation lights (sidelights and a stern light combined in a single fixture) because of the ... U.S. Spars U.S. Spars is part of Z-Spars Group in France, the World's Largest Spar Builders. Z-Spars has been supplying the sailing world with quality products since 1973. US Spars supplies quality brands like Hunter, Beneteau, Com-Pac and Performance Cruising. We would be happy to quote your mast, boom, and rigging needs. US Spars takes pride in ... Sailing Terms: Sailboat Types, Rigs, Uses, and Definitions Mast configurations and sail combinations are another way of categorizing sailboats. These are just a few of the most common types. Sloop The most common type of sailboat is a sloop. A sloop has one mast and two sails, a mainsail and a headsail. Depending on the size and shape of the headsail, it may be called a jib, genoa or spinnaker. Masthead Float Masthead Float for sailboat mainsail. Specs: - Light-weight marine canvas fabric. - 5 oz dacron sailcloth sleeve on front edge to fit over bolt rope. - 1" closed cell foam flotation: approximately 25 lbs of positive buoyancy. - Option to purchase additional 1/2" foam pads for 40-50% increase in flotation value. Five Oceans Combination Masthead and Deck Light, LED Masthead Deck Five Oceans Tri-Color All-Around Anchor Boat Navigation Light, High Performance Polycarbonate Housing, 12V DC, Meets USCG 2 NM Rules, Mast Mount for Sailboat - FO2071 3.8 out of 5 stars 43 2 offers from $88.00 Used Sails, New Sails and Sailboats Buy or sale used sails, Boats, Sailing Accessories, Sailing Gear, we have the largest selection of used sails in the US. Call us for details 1-800-783-6953 About Masthead Enterprises Masthead has been an industry leader as a used sail brokerage since 1992; utilizing our marine connections to become one of the largest used sail shops in North America. With over 16,000 sails sold, we have been proudly serving the sailing community for over 30 years. We provide a valuable service to sailors as a source to sell or exchange ... Used & New Sails In Stock Masthead Enterprises has sold over 16,000 Headsails, Main and Spinnakers over the last 30 years. We recently acquired all of Catalina Yachts surplus from their in house sail loft. We have new never used mains and Genoas that range in size from the Catalina 12.5 to the Catalina 470 and Catalina Morgan 50. We also have plenty of used sails in a ... catamaran gulet motorboat powerboat riverboat sailboat yacht