head on a sailboat

5 Types of Marine Heads: Which is Better?

If you have ever been on a train, airplane, or other forms of public transportation and had to use the bathroom, your nostrils have probably never forgiven you for the experience. In addition, your elbows may still be calloused from smacking up against the sides every time you had to make a minor adjustment.

Unfortunately, this had been a reality for sailors and boat passengers for far too long. Thankfully, sanitation standards and new head technology has made going to the bathroom pleasurable again.

That said, I hope to flush out the old perceptions of shipboard potties. This article aims to inform you of the different types of marine heads you can pick from when choosing a bathroom package for your new boat or if trying to decide on a replacement for your older vessel’s sanitation system.

Table of Contents

What Is A Marine Head?

Different types of marine heads, marine sanitation laws to be aware of, quick tips for using a marine head.

If you haven’t guessed it already, a head is a mariners term for the bathroom. The word derived from sailing vessels of times past when the crew’s nature center was towards the bow (front) or the head of the ship for strategic cleaning purposes.

I’m going to spare you the details of how sailors in the past flushed away or discharged their waste. Instead, I would like to have us explore the different types of marine heads together and discuss how each of them works.

The 5 Types Of Marine Heads include:

• Porta-Potti
• Manual Head
• Electric Head
• Vacuum Head
• Composting Head

1. Porta-Potti

You have likely seen or even used some model of the Porta-Potti, whether when passing a construction zone or attending a more significant public event outdoors like a state or county fair.

In any case, the Porta-Potti is a comfortable, durable, and self-contained toilet that is entirely portable-requiring no permanent plumbing system.

Porta-Potties are an excellent option for cabinless boats that do not have the allocated space for a fully installed sanitation system. You should consider investing in this useful tag-a-long accessory if you own a smaller fishing or recreational boat and plan on being out on the water for the majority of the day.

The Porta-Potti 145 is Thetfords medium-size portable toilet fit with a bellow pump and capable of holding up to 12 liters of waste. You can easily find one of these toilets for less than seventy-five bucks, which is worth the investment.

Thetford offers luxury models in their portable toilet line-up with a range of different flushing options. However, remember that you will have to physically empty the contents within the holding tank once back on dry land.

Although it sounds like a reasonably unpleasant job, if you follow the manufacturer’s instructions, nothing should poop up the process.

2. Manual Head

The next tier above the Porta-Pottie is the manual head. As the name implies, you utilize a hand pump to draw up water (post-use) and flush down the generated waste into a holding tank.

There are many different size holding tanks available; however, the most suitable size for your bathroom setup depends on several factors:

• the space you have available on your boat
• boat capacity (a manual head system adds at least 25 pounds of weight to your boat)
• how many passengers are on board, and
• the time you plan on being away from a marina

The physics being operating a manual head is pretty straightforward. Still, some preferred techniques to implement to ensure your sanitation system maintains clean and clog-free lines (and odor-free is always lovely too).

PRO-TIP: David Schmidt, from CruisingWorld, suggests, “users pump a small amount of water into the bowl, complete their business as normal, and then flush by first flipping a selector switch (typically mounted by the pump), and pumping the handle to drain the bowl.”

Manual heads do not require power and are reasonably easy to maintain and repair, even while out at sea. In addition, manual head systems are usually the least expensive option next to portable toilets.

Remember, you will empty your manual head’s storage tank at your closest marina’s pump-out facility. Consider ABSCO as your trusted manufacturer of manual marine heads.

3. Electric Heads

We all like the convenience of controlling something by the press of a button- an electrical head utilizes power to drive waste down into your sanitation systems holding tank after performing your duties at sea.

Running an electric head off a separate circuit would be wise; each flush will use a brief load burst of approximately 20 to 30 amps. So you may want to still store a Porta-Pottie somewhere on board in case you lose power while out at sea.

One excellent feature that comes standard with most electric heads is a macerator that works to prevent clogs- a group of blades that shred up waste before passing through the boat’s sanitation system lines.

Though manufacturers are constantly seeking ways to improve electric heads, they are notably loud and more challenging to maintain due to having more moving parts than more basic marine head types .

4. Vacuum Heads

Vacuum heads also utilize power to operate the systems vacuum pump activated upon flushing the toilet. Typically, the vacuum pump will remain on until the system repressurizes and automatically s off (about one minute).

Vacuum heads clean out the toilet’s contents with freshwater, sucking down waste up to speeds of seven feet per second.

Vacuum heads are a preferable sanitation system to consider if you upgrade your boat’s outdated mechanical toilet. To install one of these systems on your boat, you need three main parts:

• a vacuum pump and accumulator, and
• a holding tank

VacuFlush is an industry leader for these types of marine heads.

5. Composting Head

There is no better alternative for the most environmentally conscious than the composting head. Typically composting heads have two chambers: one for liquids and one for solids.

Nature’s Head is likely the most popular solution for outdoor enthusiasts and naturalists, no matter if you live aboard a vessel or out in a small cabin in the woods.

As a sailor, you will be happy to hear that this particular brand is also USCG certified. In addition, composting toilets eliminate the need for electric power and give you back that precious storage space you surrendered for installing the holding tank on your older sanitation system.

With composting toilets, you save on weight, space, complicated mechanics and get to skip out on waiting in line at the marina pump-out station as well.

The process is pretty simple- you go to the bathroom and let nature take care of the rest. Then, you sprinkle some peat moss into the solid waste chamber. As it sits, a natural healing process occurs, which eradicates dangerous bacteria.

In the end, the only remains of your waste will be a blackened powder that you must dispose of onshore or use as a sustainable fertilizer for non-edible garden landscaping.

Suppose you choose a permanently installed marine head for your boat. In that case, you must comply with various USCG regulations that regulate disposal and discharge procedures to protect the environment and others.

The Environmental Protection Agency establishes No Discharge Zones where discharged waste is prohibited. You can see a list of the No-Discharge Zones (NDZs) by State here. In addition, you cannot discharge treated or untreated waste in freshwater lakes and some rivers.

Be sure not to discharge waste within three miles from shore unless it has been treated by “U.S. Coast Guard-approved Type I or Type II MSD. Alternatively, sewage may be stored onboard in a holding tank (Type III MSD).”

If you have any doubts, don’t hesitate to get in touch with the United States Coast Guard or contact your region’s EPA Ambassador for more information.

• Although permanently installed sanitation systems can generally use freshwater or saltwater for flushes, experts recommend freshwater. Freshwater flushes help control odor by eliminating any interaction between your waste and tiny marine organisms.
• Use biodegradable toilet paper and refrain from flushing any other foreign objects down the toilet- Keep It Natural, so you don’t have to deal with the nasty job of clearing out clogs.
• Stick to marine-only cleaning chemicals and other additives. House products can significantly reduce the lifespan of plastics, seals, and other marine head hardware . If you decide on revamping your vessel’s bathroom with a composting toilet, remember only to use organic sphagnum peat moss.
• Schedule a regular cleaning and maintenance program for your marine head. Stick to your manufacturer’s guidelines and only treat or clean with approved products.
• Use It But Don’t Abuse It- the best way to ensure a marine head that lasts.

Investing in the most suitable marine head involves considering several factors, including an individual’s sustainability index, available onboard space, and intended boat use (extended trips vs. a couple of hours out at the lake).

As you think about your boat’s capacity and sanitation needs, please do not hesitate to leave any questions or concerns you may have in the comment section below.

Joseph Fabiano is a writer, nature enthusiast, and stay-at-home father of two wild and free boys. He enjoys starting his day with a good run, hot mug of coffee, and a jump in the Ionian Sea, no matter the weather. Currently based in the Apuglia region of southern Italy, he enjoys discovering the world with his best traveling buddies (his little monkey’s and beautiful wife) at every given opportunity. Every trip, long or far, should be made an adventure according to Joseph as he believes inspiration and creation is right in front of you.

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Boat Head System: A Comprehensive Guide

Understanding how to use and maintain the head (a.k.a. the toilet) on a boat is critical for everyone setting sail.  However, maintaining a clean and functional onboard head is essential to ensure a pleasant experience for everyone aboard.

This article will discuss common issues with boat heads, troubleshooting methods, and preventative measures to keep your boat’s head running smoothly and hygienically.

Key Takeaways

• Regular maintenance and inspection of your boat's head system help prevent common issues and ensure smooth operation.
• Addressing clogs, odors, and weak pressure promptly can help avoid more significant problems and maintain a hygienic environment on your boat.
• Educate guests and crew about proper head usage to minimize the risk of clogs and other issues.
• Use environmentally friendly products and practices to reduce your boating footprint and comply with local and international regulations.
• Be familiar with No Discharge Zones (NDZs) and utilize pump-out facilities to dispose of waste responsibly.

Understanding a Marine Head

The heads are designed differently from those in our homes due to several unique challenges and requirements in the boating environment. Some of the main factors that contribute to these differences include:

Space constraints : Boats, especially smaller vessels, have limited space available, so toilets are often designed to be more compact and space-efficient compared to their residential counterparts.

Water usage: Freshwater is a valuable resource on a boat, and conserving it is essential. These toilets are designed to use less, helping minimize the water supply’s impact.

Waste storage and disposal: Unlike our homes connected to sewer systems, boats require onboard waste storage and disposal solutions. The heads are designed to work with blackwater tanks or other waste management systems that can be pumped out or emptied when the boat is in a suitable location.

Motion and stability: Boats are subject to constant movement due to waves and other factors affecting their functioning. The toilets are designed to operate effectively in these conditions and prevent blackwater from sloshing or escaping during motion.

Power supply: Many boats have limited electrical power, so boat toilets, like manual toilets, are often designed to be more energy-efficient or operate without electricity.

Boat Head Components

• Toilet : This is where it all begins. This is designed specifically for boats and handles waste differently from our homes.
• Holding tank : This container stores waste until it can be disposed of properly at a pump-out station or designated areas.
• Y-valve : This valve controls the flow of waste, directing it either into the tank or overboard, depending on local regulations and environmental concerns.
• Pump and hoses : These components move the waste from the bowl to the tank or overboard. Pumps can be manual, electric, or vacuum-based, and hoses connect everything.
• Vent line and filter : This allows air exchange in the blackwater tank, while a filter helps reduce unpleasant smells.

Common Marine Sanitation Systems

A hand-operated head removes waste by drawing in water and pushing out waste. It’s a simple and reliable option.

• Simple and reliable design
• Cost-effective compared to other types
• Low power consumption as they don’t require electricity
• Requires manual use, which can be physically demanding
• More time-consuming compared to electric or vacuum systems

Electric heads use a motor to expel waste, making it more convenient and easier to use than manual.

• Convenient and easy to use
• Automatic flushing with the push of a button
• Faster operation compared to manual ones
• Higher power consumption
• More complex design, which can lead to additional maintenance
• More expensive than manual

A vacuum system creates a powerful suction to flush waste, using less water.

• Powerful and uses less water
• Lower risk of clogs due to strong suction
• It can be quieter than other types
• Requires electricity and may consume more power than other types
• More complex design, potentially resulting in higher maintenance costs
• Generally more expensive than manual or electric 

Composting and Portable Heads 

Environmentally friendly, this system transforms waste into compost, reducing the need for pump-outs.

• Environmentally friendly, reducing the need for waste removal
• Low water consumption, conserving onboard water resources
• Odorless when properly maintained
• Requires more space for the composting process
• Regular maintenance and monitoring of composting progress is necessary
• It may not be suitable for larger boats or those with frequent guests

Steps to Properly Use a Marine Toilet

Using a boat’s head might initially seem intimidating, but with a little practice, it becomes second nature. Here are the key steps to follow:

Pre-use preparations

Before using the head, make sure you’re all set:

• Familiarize yourself with the system by understanding its components and how they work together.
• Ensure the blackwater tank is empty or has sufficient space to accommodate new waste.
• Check for proper ventilation to minimize smells and ensure the system functions efficiently.

Using the Head

• Open the sea valve (if applicable). This step applies mainly to manual and some electric heads, allowing water to enter the bowl.
• Change the switch or valve to draw water in (for manual heads). Pump water into the bowl using the handle 3 to 5 times to create a water barrier that prevents odors from escaping the tank. Pressing the appropriate button for electric or vacuum heads automatically brings water into the bowl.
• Add waste ………
• Change the switch or valve to pump out (for manual heads). Flush the waste with the handle 10 to 15 times slowly and steadily, removing the waste from the bowl and through the hoses. Pressing the button for electric or vacuum heads should automatically clear the waste.
• Close the sea valve (if applicable) to prevent water from entering the bowl when not in use.

Post-use maintenance

After using the head, it’s essential to keep the system in good shape:

• Pump out the blackwater tank regularly at a designated facility or follow local regulations.
• Rinse and clean the bowl to keep it fresh and minimize smells.
• Inspect and maintain the head components by checking hoses, valves, and seals for wear and tear and replacing or repairing them as needed.

Small Boat Head Systems

A complete system may not be feasible for smaller boats and vessels with limited space. In such cases, consider alternative options to ensure proper sanitation and convenience on board:

Portable Toilets

Portable : These compact and self-contained units are popular on small boats, also known as porta-potties. They’re easy to install, require minimal maintenance, and can be emptied at a suitable location ashore.

Bucket : A simple and cost-effective solution for small boats uses a 5-gallon bucket with a toilet seat lid. Biodegradable waste bags and absorbent gel packets can help manage waste and odors. Dispose of waste bags properly when back on land.

Caddy style : These are transportable, self-contained systems with a built-in waste storage compartment. They often come with a rope handle for easy transport and can be used with biodegradable waste bags.

Environmentally Friendly Options

Composting toilets : For environmentally conscious boaters, composting heads are a sustainable option for separating solid and liquid waste, reducing smells, and requiring frequent pump-outs. Ensure proper disposal of composted waste according to local regulations.

USCG-certified portable toilets : Look for those certified by the United States Coast Guard (USCG) to ensure they meet safety and sanitation standards.

Regular maintenance

• Clean the bowl regularly : Use a marine-safe cleaning product to keep the bowl fresh and reduce bacteria and odor buildup.
• Check and replace vent filters : Inspect the filters on your tank and replace them as needed to ensure proper airflow and minimize smells.
• Empty the blackwater tank frequently : Regularly emptying the tank helps prevent the buildup of waste and smell-causing bacteria.

Deodorizing products

Consider using deodorizing products specifically designed for marine heads to minimize sulfur smells:

• Blackwater tank treatments : These break down waste, control smells, and reduce the growth of odor-causing bacteria.
• Bowl cleaners : They help keep it fresh.

Winterizing the Head

Preparing your head for winter protects your system from freezing temperatures and potential damage. Follow these steps to winterize your head:

Empty the Blackwater Tank

• Empty out the tank : Ensure your tank is empty before winterizing. Visit a designated pump-out facility or follow local regulations.

Drain the system

• Drain the bowl : Remove any remaining water until empty.
• Clear the hoses and pumps : Open valves or disconnect hoses to remove water from the system. Use the handle several times for manual heads to remove any water from the pump. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to drain the system for electric or vacuum heads.

Protect with non-toxic antifreeze

• Add non-toxic antifreeze : Pour non-toxic antifreeze (typically propylene glycol-based) into the bowl. For manual heads, use the handle until the antifreeze reaches the blackwater tank or hull thru-hull. Follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for circulating antifreeze for electric or vacuum heads through the system.

Additional precautions

• Disconnect any electrical components : If your system has electric or electronic components, disconnect them from the power source to prevent damage during winter storage.
• Inspect and clean components : Winterizing is an excellent time to inspect hoses, seals, and other components for wear and tear. Replace or repair any damaged parts and clean the system to ensure it’s in good condition for the next boating season.

Troubleshooting and Preventative Measures

Maintaining a boat head involves addressing potential issues and taking preventative measures to ensure smooth operation. Here are some common problems, their solutions, and tips for keeping your system in top shape.

Common Issues

Clogs : Blockages can occur due to excessive toilet paper use, flushing non-biodegradable items, or hose buildup. Use a plunger or a specialized toilet snake to resolve a clog. Remember the common adage: Don’t put it into the head if you haven’t eaten or drunk it!

Odors : Unpleasant smells can arise from a full blackwater tank, hose leaks, or sulfur smell from bacteria in saltwater. To identify the source and resolve these issues, follow these steps:

• Regularly empty your tank, ensuring it doesn’t become too full.
• Inspect hoses for leaks or damage, replacing them if necessary.
• If your system uses saltwater, consider using freshwater instead or installing a freshwater flush system to minimize odor-causing bacteria.

Weak pressure : A weak flush can be caused by a blocked vent, low water pressure, or issues with the pump. To troubleshoot weak pressure:

• Check for blockages in the line and remove any obstructions.
• Ensure there is sufficient water pressure in the system.
• Inspect the pump for wear or damage and repair or replace it as needed.

Preventative Measures

• Regular inspections : Inspect your system regularly for wear, leaks, or damage. Check hoses, seals, and other components, and repair or replace them as needed.
• Proper usage : Educate guests and crew on the proper use of the toilet, including the appropriate amount of water for flushing and the types of items that can be safely disposed of.
• Cleanliness : Clean the toilet bowl regularly using a non-toxic cleaning product to maintain a hygienic environment.
• Tank maintenance : Treat your holding tank with deodorizing products and ensure proper venting to control smells. Monitor tank levels and schedule waste removals as needed.

Environmentally Conscious Boating

As boaters, we must be mindful of our environmental impact and take steps to minimize our footprint. Here are some guidelines for environmentally conscious boating, particularly when it comes to using and maintaining your boat’s head:

Conserve water resources

• Limit water usage : Encourage guests and crew to use water conservatively to minimize tank filling and reduce the need for frequent emptying.

Use eco-friendly products

• Marine-safe toilet paper : Opt for paper specifically designed for use on a boat, as it breaks down more quickly and helps prevent clogs.
• Environmentally friendly cleaning products : Use nontoxic cleaning products to clean your head and tank, as they are less harmful to the environment.

Maintain your head system

• Regular inspections and maintenance : A well-maintained head is less likely to leak or release waste unintentionally. Inspect hoses, seals, and other components regularly for wear and tear, and replace or repair them as needed.
• Upgrade hoses : Invest in high-quality, odor-resistant hoses to prevent leaks and reduce the chances of waste seeping into the surrounding environment.

Local and International Regulations

As a responsible boater, you must know and adhere to local and international marine toilet use and waste regulations. Here’s an overview of some key regulations and guidelines to follow:

No Discharge Zones (NDZs)

• No Discharge Zones : Many coastal areas, lakes, and rivers have designated NDZs, where it is prohibited to release untreated waste from a boat. Always check local regulations and maps to identify NDZs.

International Maritime Organization (IMO) regulations

• MARPOL Annex IV : The International Maritime Organization (IMO) has established regulations under MARPOL Annex IV to prevent pollution by sewage from ships. Boats larger than 400 gross tons or certified to carry more than 15 passengers must have an approved waste treatment system or a holding tank.

US regulations

• US Clean Water Act : The Clean Water Act regulates sewage release from vessels in the United States. Boaters must use Marine Sanitation Devices (MSDs) to treat or hold waste on board, and discharging untreated sewage is prohibited within three miles of the shoreline.

European Union (EU) regulations

• EU Inland Water Regulations : Within the European Union, the discharge of untreated waste is prohibited in inland waterways, and many coastal areas have designated NDZs. Boats must have a holding tank or an approved treatment system in these areas.

Waste Removal facilities

• Pump-out facilities : To comply with regulations and protect the environment, always use designated facilities to empty your blackwater tank or portable toilet. Many marinas and boatyards provide these services; some local authorities may offer mobile services.
• Avoid releasing waste overboard : In most areas, releasing raw sewage is prohibited. 

Maintaining a well-functioning and odor-free boat head is crucial for a comfortable and enjoyable boating experience. By taking the time to regularly inspect and address issues promptly and follow responsible waste disposal practices, you can ensure a more pleasant journey for you, your guests, and the environment.

With these tips, you’ll be better equipped to keep your boat head in shape and your time on the water as enjoyable as possible.

Q: How can I prevent clogs in my boat’s head?

A: To prevent clogs, limit the amount of paper used, avoid flushing non-biodegradable items, and use marine-safe toilet paper that breaks down quickly.

Q: How can I reduce odors in my boat’s head?

A: To reduce odors, ensure proper ventilation, regularly empty the blackwater tank, inspect hoses for leaks, and consider using freshwater or installing a freshwater flush system.

Q: What could cause weak pressure in my head system?

A: Weak pressure can be caused by a blocked vent, low water pressure, or issues with the pump. Check for blockages, ensure sufficient water pressure, and inspect the pump for wear or damage.

Q: How can I make my boat’s head more environmentally friendly?

A: Conserve water, use eco-friendly products such as marine-safe paper and non-toxic cleaning products, and regularly inspect and maintain your head to prevent leaks and unintentional waste release.

Q: How do I properly dispose of waste from my boat’s head?

A: Always use designated pump-out facilities to empty your holding tank or portable toilet, and follow local and international regulations to ensure responsible waste disposal.

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Parts Of a Sail Explained (Illustrated Beginners Guide)

Are you curious about sail mechanics and how they engage the wind? In this illustrated guide, we'll explain the various sail components and how they work together to propel a sailboat. From the head to the foot, the tack to the clew, we'll break down each part and give you a solid foundation to build on as you learn to trim sails and navigate the open sea.

A sail, which is a large piece of fabric that is attached to a long pole called the mast, uses the wind to pull a sailboat across the water. It has various parts, such as the head, tack, clew, luff, leech, foot, mainsail, jib, and batten. These components determine the shape and efficiency of the sail.

Let's break down all these terms and descriptions to understand how each component interacts with each other. So, whether you're a seasoned sailor or a beginner, you'll have a better grasp of sail trim and optimal performance on the water.

• The primary parts of a mainsail include the head, tack, clew, luff, leech, and foot.
• Some critical elements of the jib include the sheet, genoa, and headstay.
• Asymmetrical spinnakers are designed for off-wind sailing and have a more rounded shape, while symmetrical spinnakers are used for downwind sailing and have a more traditional, triangular shape.
• The most common fabrics used for making sails are traditional fabrics like cotton and flax, and modern fabrics such as polyester and nylon, Dacron, Mylar, and laminates.
• Be sure to learn how to properly trim, reef, clean, flake, and store your sails for durability and optimal performance.

On this page:

Parts of a sail and their functions, mainsail components, jib components of a sailboat, components of spinnakers, sail controls and settings, sail care and maintenance, sail materials and construction.

In this guide, we'll focus on the three main types of sails : Mainsail, Jib, and Spinnaker.

Mainsail is the primary sail on your boat

The mainsail is the largest sail on a sailboat and is typically attached to the mast and boom. It is found aft (rear) of the mast. It's attached to the boat through a track or sail slide, which allows it to move up and down.

Jib is a triangular sail placed in front of the boat

The jib is a smaller sail that is attached to the bow of the boat and works in conjunction with the mainsail to control the direction and speed of the boat. It helps to improve the boat's handling and increase speed, working in tandem with the mainsail.

In some cases, larger jibs called genoas are used to capture more wind, thus increasing the boat's speed.

Spinnaker is designed for sailing downwind

The spinnaker is a large, colorful, and lightweight balloon-shaped sail designed for sailing downwind. It captures the wind from the rear, pushing the boat forward with added speed and stability.

In this section, you'll find a comprehensive explanation of the primary components of a sail and their functions:

Head is the uppermost corner of a sail

The head of the sail refers to the uppermost corner where it connects to the top of the mast. Knowing the location of the head is essential, as it helps you identify the top of the sail and allows you to properly hoist and secure it in place.

Tack is the lower front corner of a sail

The tack is where the lower front corner connects to the base of the mast, or the boom. This important point helps you determine the sail's orientation and affects its overall shape and efficiency. By adjusting the tension at the tack, you can control your sail's performance and handling in various wind conditions.

Clew is the lower rear corner of a saisl

The clew is where the sheets attach to control the sail's angle to the wind. Adjusting the tension on the sheets can change the sail's shape and ultimately influence the boat's speed and direction. Becoming familiar with the clew will help improve your sailing skills and ensure smooth maneuvers on the water.

Luff is the front edge of the sail

The luff is the forward edge of the sail that runs along the mast. It's crucial to maintaining a tight and efficient sail shape. When sailing upwind, pay close attention to the luff, as it can provide valuable information about your sail's trim. A properly trimmed sail will have a smooth luff, allowing the boat to move efficiently against the wind.

Leech is the rear edge of the sail

The leech is opposite the luff. It plays a critical role in controlling the overall shape and efficiency of your sail. Watch the leech carefully while sailing, as excessive tension or looseness can negatively affect your sail's performance. Adjusting your sail's trim or using a device called a "boom vang" can help control the shape and tension of the leech.

Foot is the bottom edge of the sail

The foot is running between the tack and the clew. It helps control the shape and power of the sail by adjusting the tension along the boom. Ensure the foot is properly trimmed, as this can impact your boat's performance and speed. A well-adjusted foot helps your sail maintain its proper shape and operate at optimal efficiency while out on the water.

In this section, we'll look at some critical elements of the jib: the sheet, genoa, and headstay.

Sheet is the line used to control the position and trim of the sail

The jib sheet is the line used to control the jib's angle in relation to the wind. You adjust the sheet to get the best possible sail trim, which greatly affects your boat's performance. The jib sheet typically runs from the jib's clew (the lower rear corner of the sail) through a block on the boat's deck, and back to the cockpit, where you can easily control it.

When adjusting the jib sheet, you want to find the perfect balance between letting the sail out too far, causing it to luff (flutter), and pulling it in too tightly, which can cause heeling or poor sail shape. Make small adjustments and observe how your boat responds to find the sweet spot.

Genoa is a larger jib used to capture more wind

A genoa is a larger version of a standard jib. It overlaps the mainsail, extending further aft, and provides a greater sail area for improved upwind performance. Genoas are categorized by the percentage of overlap with the mainsail. For example, a 130% genoa means that the sail's area is 30% larger than the area of a jib that would end at the mast.

Genoas are useful in light wind conditions, as their larger surface area helps your boat move faster. However, they can become difficult to manage in strong winds. You might need to reef (reduce the size) or swap to a smaller jib to maintain control.

Headstay provides a support structure for the jib

The headstay is a crucial part of your boat's standing rigging system. It is the cable or rod that connects the top of the mast (the masthead) to the bow of the boat. The headstay helps maintain the mast's stability and provides a support structure for the jib.

The tension in your headstay plays a significant role in the jib's sail shape. Proper headstay tension will create a smooth, even curve, allowing your jib to perform optimally. If the headstay is too tight, the sail may be too flat, reducing its power, whereas a loose headstay can result in a sagging, inefficient sail shape.

A spinnaker is a sail designed specifically for sailing off the wind , on courses between a reach and downwind. They are made of lightweight fabric, often brightly colored, and help maximize your sailing speed and performance.

Asymmetrical spinnakers are designed for off-wind sailing

Asymmetrical spinnakers are usually found on modern cruising and racing boats. They're designed for a broader range of wind angles and have a more forgiving shape, making them easier for you to handle. Key components of an asymmetrical spinnaker include:

• Tack : This is the front, lower corner where the sail connects to the boat. A tack line is used to adjust the sail's position relative to the bow.
• Head : The top corner of the sail, where it connects to the halyard to be hoisted up the mast.
• Clew : The aft corner of the sail, connected to the sheet, allowing you to control the angle of the sail to catch the wind effectively.

You can find a step-by-step guide on how to rig and hoist an asymmetrical spinnaker here .

Symmetrical spinnakers are used for downwind sailing

Symmetrical spinnakers are more traditional and usually found on racing boats, where downwind performance is critical. These sails are shaped like a large parachute and are split into two identical halves. Key components of a symmetrical spinnaker include:

• Head : Similar to the asymmetrical spinnaker, the head is the top corner connected to the halyard.
• Clews : Unlike an asymmetrical spinnaker, a symmetrical spinnaker has two clews. Both are connected to sheets and guys, which help control the sail's shape and movement.
• Spinnaker Pole : This is a horizontal pole that extends from the mast and is used to project the windward clew outwards and hold the sail open.

Handling a symmetrical spinnaker can be more challenging, as it requires precise teamwork and coordination. If you're new to sailing with this type of sail, don't hesitate to seek guidance from experienced sailors to improve your technique.

In this section, we'll explore sail controls and settings, which are essential for beginners to understand for efficient sailing. We'll discuss trimming, and reefing, as sub-sections.

Trimming your sails for speed and stability

Trimming is the process of adjusting your sails to optimize them for the current wind conditions and desired direction. Proper sail trim is crucial for maximizing your boat's speed and stability. Here are some basic tips for sail trimming:

• Pay attention to the telltales, which are small ribbons or yarn attached to the sails. They help you understand the airflow over your sails and indicate whether they're properly trimmed.
• Use the sheets, which are lines attached to the clew of your sails, to adjust the angle of your sails relative to the wind.
• In light winds, ease the sails slightly to create a more rounded shape for better lift. In stronger winds, flatten the sails to reduce drag and prevent excessive heeling.

Reefing your sails for control and balance

Reefing is the process of reducing the sail area to help maintain control and balance in stronger wind conditions. It's an essential skill to learn for your safety and the longevity of your sails. Follow these steps to reef your sails:

• Head into the wind to reduce pressure on the sails.
• Lower the halyard (the line that raises the sail) until the sail reaches the desired reefing point.
• Attach the sail's reefing cringle (reinforced eyelet) to the reefing hook or tack line.
• Tighten the new, lower clew (bottom corner) of the sail to the boom with the reef line.
• Raise the halyard back up to tension the reduced sail.

Take proper care of your sailboat to ensure that it remains in top condition. In this section, we will discuss the key aspects of sail care and maintenance, focusing on cleaning and storage.

Steps to clean your sails

Keeping your sail clean is crucial for its longevity and performance. Follow these simple steps to maintain a spotless sail:

• Rinse with fresh water after each use, paying extra attention to areas affected by saltwater, debris, and bird droppings.
• Use a soft-bristled brush and a mild detergent to gently scrub away dirt and stains. Avoid harsh chemicals or abrasive materials, as they may damage the fabric.
• Rinse again thoroughly, ensuring all soap is washed away.
• Spread your sail out to air-dry, avoiding direct sunlight, which may harm the fabric's UV protection.

Ways to store your sails

Sail storage is equally important for preserving the lifespan of your sail. Here are some tips for proper sail storage:

• Fold or roll your sail : Avoid stuffing or crumpling your sail; instead, gently fold or roll it to minimize creases and wear on the fabric.
• Protect from UV rays : UV exposure can significantly reduce the life of your sail. Store it in a cool, shaded area or use a UV-resistant sail cover when not in use.
• Ventilation : Ensure your sail is stored in a well-ventilated area to prevent mildew and stale odors.
• Lay flat or hang : If space allows, store your sail laid out flat or hanging vertically to reduce the risk of creasing and fabric damage.

Flaking your sails when not in use

Flaking is the process of neatly folding your sails when they're not in use, either on the boom or deck. This helps protect your sails from damage and prolongs their lifespan. Here's how to flake your sails:

• Lower the sail slowly, using the halyard while keeping some tension on it.
• As the sail comes down, gather and fold the sail material in an accordion-like pattern on top of the boom or deck.
• Secure the flaked sail with sail ties or a sail cover to prevent it from coming undone.

Traditional fabrics used to make sails

In the early days of sailing, natural materials like cotton and flax were used to make sails. These fabrics were durable, breathable, and held up well in various weather conditions. However, they would eventually wear out and lose their shape due to the constant exposure to UV rays and seawater.

While traditional fabrics like cotton and flax were once commonly used for sailmaking, they have largely been replaced by synthetic materials like polyester and nylon due to their superior strength, durability, and resistance to mildew and rot. However, some sailors and sailmakers still use cotton and other natural fibers for certain applications, such as traditional sailmaking or historical recreations.

Modern fabrics used to make sails

Modern sail materials, such as Dacron, Mylar, and laminates, are more resilient and longer-lasting than traditional fabrics. These materials are lightweight, strong, and resistant to UV rays and water damage.

Dacron : Dacron is a popular material for sails because of its durability, UV resistance, and ease of maintenance. It's a type of polyester fabric that is often used for making cruising sails. Dacron offers excellent shape retention and resistance to stretch, making it ideal for both beginners and experienced sailors.

Laminate materials : Laminate sails are made by bonding multiple layers of materials like Mylar, polyester, and Kevlar. These sails offer better shape and performance compared to their fabric counterparts, making them popular among racers. However, they tend to be more delicate and may not be suitable for long-term cruising.

Mylar films : Mylar films are used in laminate sails for their excellent strength-to-weight ratio and shape retention. These films are often sandwiched between other materials, such as polyester or Kevlar, to enhance the sail's resistance to stretch and load handling. However, Mylar sails can be susceptible to delamination and abrasion, requiring extra care and regular inspection.

Sail stitching for shape and durability

Sail stitching is an essential aspect of sail construction, helping to maintain the sail's shape and durability. Various stitching techniques can be used, such as zigzag, straight, and triple-step sewing. The choice of stitching type depends on the sail's purpose and expected loads. In addition, using UV-resistant thread ensures that the stitching lasts longer under harsh sun exposure.

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You may also like, how do sails actually work: full beginners guide.

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Where Does the Term “Head” Come from on Boats?

Why is a toilet called a head on boats.

The term “head” used for a marine toilet started because of the location of the toilet on the earliest sailing ships. For crewmen, the facilities were located at the head of the ships. The front of ships had a figurehead: a carved wooden figure or bust fitted on the bow of the ship. The toilet was located there set just above the water line with slots cut near the floor level to use wave action to wash the toilet.

With the wind blowing from the rear to the front as it does for sailing ships, the “head” (or front) of the ship was the best place for everyone for a sailor to relieve himself. So, when the crew went potty, they went to the head of the ship…and the name stuck.

Note the captain sometimes had a private toilet at the stern of the ship near his quarters and may have used a chamber pot which some unfortunate swabby had to empty.

Read on to learn what sailors used for toilet paper and for more marine term origins like poop deck and scuttlebutt.

Early Toilet Paper at Sea

• A piece of rope frayed at the end that in between wipings was dragged alongside the boat for cleaning…one rope for the entire crew. An aside: In Dutch, this piece of rope was called “allemanseind” which is currently the name for the braided piece of rope attached to the ship’s bell.
• A brush at the end of a line that trailed in the water, again all shipmates used the same brush.
• The crew saved shakings (loose strands that worked out of the running rigging) to use when needed.
• A rag on a rope that got rinsed in the sea between use. Note this is where the expression “you little tow rag” comes from.
• Sheeps tail (or likely other device) nailed to a stick that they used to dip it in a bucket of water to tidy the backsides.

Poop Deck Meaning, It’s Not What You Think

Many people think that the poop deck was the location of the original heads, but no. The name “poop deck” comes from the French word for the stern, “la poupe.” The upper-most rear, or the stern where the ship’s wheel is located, was called the poop deck. The poop deck was elevated so the captain and pilot would have a clear view over the front of the ship.

Some say that during heavy weather, the winds from the rear of the sailing ship would loft foam and sea spray from tall waves leaving the poop deck and the pilot quite wet. So after a day of steering in bad weather, the pilot was “pooped.”

Scuttlebutt?

And our final bit of nautical jargon explained is “scuttlebutt.”

Sailors’ drinking water was kept in a water barrel (called a butt) that had been “scuttled” with a hole to pour out a drink. Just like in modern day workplaces, loitering around the scuttlebutt was a popular pastime when the captain and officers were not paying close attention.

Even today, office “water cooler” gossip is sometimes referred to as “scuttlebutt.” In today’s Navy, a drinking fountain is still referred to as the scuttlebutt. Any many a sailing newsletter or online magazine with maritime news is title “scuttlebutt”.

Estelle Cockcroft

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2 thoughts on “Where Does the Term “Head” Come from on Boats?”

Well, I’m pooped after that little bit of scuttlebutt. I’m going to the head.

I’m strong to the finach cus I eat me spinach. I’m Popeye the sailor man.

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The Most Important Parts of a Sail

There are a lot of important parts of a sailboat , but none more important and unique as the sail. Parts of a sail have different names and uses depending on whether you have a mainsail, headsail/jib, Genoa sail, Spinnaker sail, or Gennaker sail.

So what are the parts of a sail? For a mainsail, the parts of a sail include the

• Slides and bolt rope
• Track slides
• Reef cringle
• Reef points

For a headsail or jib, the parts of a sail include the

Piston Hanks

Some of these parts of a sail have strange names, but each definitely serves an important purpose. Being able to identify these parts and learn what they’re used for will not only improve your sailing terminology but also your effectiveness as a sailboat captain or crew member.

The mainsail on a sailboat serves as an important part of a sailboat since it’s the part that acts like the sailboat’s “engine”.

Of course, this is the type of engine doesn’t need any gas or petroleum. Depending on the wind strength and direction while you’re out on the water, you’ll need to adjust the mainsail from time to time to catch the wind just right.

Whenever you have the mainsail up and you have to make these adjustments, you’ll need to be aware of the different parts of a sail and what purpose they serve.

Most of the time you’ll be operating a sailboat with a sloop rig (or a Bermudan rig), which is exactly what we’re going to dive into!

The head of a sail is a part of a sail that’s located at the very top. With this part of a sail being at the top corner of the sail, it’s usually connected to the mast.

When you have a triangular mainsail, this kind of head is what you’ll expect to see.

If your sailboat has a square mainsail, the two uppermost corners will be referred to as the head cringles where there are grommets called cringles.

These cringles will most likely be attached to a peak and throat, which is a part of the mast that sticks outward.

Slides & Bolt Rope

When it comes to controlling the height of your mainsail when reefing it, your mainsail will either be attached to slides or a bolt rope.

Choosing between these two types of parts of a sail are debated back and forth among sailors, so it’s important to know the difference.

Slides are probably the easiest to maintain and control when moving your sail up and down the mast.

Essentially, you connect your sail to the slides and they move along the mast. However, one of the downsides is that it’s more likely that wind will get through the open spaces between your sail and the mast.

A bolt rope is popular among sailors who are active racers because it removes the gaps between the sail and the mast by integrating the sail within the mast.

There’s actually a rope that’s sewn into the sail so that it can fit within a groove built into the mast.

The downside to having a bolt rope is that it’s not uncommon for your sail to jam with moving it up and down the mast. Trust me, that’s no fun especially at the wrong times.

The luff is a part of a sail that’s located between the head and the tack of a sail.

This part of a sail is where your slides or bolt rope will be located as well, which means it’s always attached to either the mast or a stay.

Quick note: technically, the luff is said to be located at the forward (leading) edge of a sail. When sailing, you’ll hear the term “luffing” from time to time, which means your sail starts flapping a bit instead of being tight.

Your sail will start luffing when your sailboat is steered too close toward the direction of the wind (windward) or when your sail is past optimal trim. Whenever this happens, you usually want to alter your point of sail, else trim your sail.

The tack is the part of a sail that’s placed at the bottom corner of a sail which is between the luff and the foot.

This part of a sail is directly connected to the mast and boom of your sailboat as well. On any kind of sail, the tack is always located at the lower forward corner of the sail.

You’ll hear the term “tacking” whenever you’re on a sailboat, however this has to do more with an action being performed on a sailboat and not the part of a sail called the tack.

Tacking is when you’re redirecting your sailboat when your sailboat is heading into the wind (windward).

The foot is a part of a sail that’s located at the very bottom of the sail and thus in-between the tack and the clew. The foot is directly connected to the boom of the sailboat and is attached using track slides.

Honestly, there’s not much to talk about when it comes to the foot, which makes it more a basic term used for a part of a sail.

On a headsail or jib, the foot isn’t attached to the boom as it’s at the fore of the mast and is stabilized by the clew being attached to sheets and the tack attached to a forestay.

Track Slides

Similar to the slides found on the luff of a sail, track slides are parts of a sail that are used to connect the foot of the sail to the boom of the sailboat. Usually these are attached through the use of grommets that are connected to the boom.

It’s not too often that you’ll need to adjust these track slides since most of the time the foot of the sail doesn’t move toward or away from the mast.

However, it does allow for the sail to move around freely without any restricts and it makes it easier to change out sails.

On the opposite side of the tack and along the foot, you’ll find the part of a sail called the clew.

Now, the clew is located on the aft (backend) part of a sail and sits between the foot and the leech. The clew is movable and is directly connected to the boom toward the stern of a sailboat.

On a headsail or jib, the clew is connected to two sheets that are usually attached to cam cleats located on port or starboard of your sailboat.

Adjusting the jib with these sheets is common when both tacking or jibing as well as when your jib’s luffing.

The leech is the part of a sail that’s located between the head and clew, which is also the longest edge and located on the aft of a sail. This part of a sail will bend based on the strength of the wind hitting the sail.

If the leech doesn’t have the proper amount of tension, it will likely start to flutter and cause a noticeable sound.

This is mainly due to the fact that the leech is an arch and not a straight edge. After sailing for some time, you’ll be able to recognize this sound and tend to respond by tightening the leech line.

A batten is an important part of a sail as it helps create an efficient airfoil shape of the sail so that it provides a similar function to a wing on an airplane.

Since the leech is arched and not perfectly straight, the battens help to support the shape of the sail when the wind hits it.

These battens or stiffeners sewn into pockets can either be just at the trailing edge leech of the sail or can extend right across the sail.

Having full-length battens that extend right across the sail helps the sail hold the shape better.

Reef Cringle

Reef cringles are a part of a sail that is located on the bottom of the leech and luff.

There are usually two or three sets of reef cringles, which are attached to sheets that are used to pull down the sail when reefing. The main purpose of reef cringles is to be able to pull down your sail to reach the proper reef setting.

Reef Points

Just like the reef cringles, reef points are a part of a sail used when reefing your sail.

After you’ve reefed your sail by pulling it down using the sheets attached to the reef cringles, you’ll want to secure your sail to the boom using the reef points.

You can do this by simply tying the points straight to the boom.

Headsail/Jib

Just like the mainsail, the headsail (or jib) has a head, leech, clew, foot, and tack.

Any of the difference between the mainsail and jib were mentioned in the mainsail section, so I’ll bring up the unique parts of a sail that is specific to a headsail or jib.

The luff wire is a part of a sail that’s located on the luff of a headsail which is attached to a forestay.

Simply put, the luff wire is a metallic wire that’s inserted along the leading edge of the luff. This is a necessary part of a sail so that the headsail can stay firmly intact.

Piston hanks are a part of the sail that keeps the headsail or jib firmly attached to the forestay.

These are usually made out of either metal or plastic and are designed to be easily removed using your hands. They are, however, firmly connected to the jib usually via a connector to a cringle.

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Right-of-Way Rules for Boaters

• By Jeff Hemmel
• April 20, 2022

There is no right of way on the water. Every boater is obligated to do what is required to avoid collision. In any meeting of boats, one is deemed the stand-on vessel and the other the give-way vessel. The rules of the road explain the situation more completely and can be learned in a boating safety course. This article serves as a refresher and a reminder on how to handle some common meeting scenarios.

While more common in a channel or narrow pass, head-to-head meetings can happen anywhere on the water. When encountering an oncoming boat head-on, the rule is simple: Each boat is a give-way or burdened vessel and should stay to its right, altering course to starboard and allowing each craft to pass to the port (left) side of the other boat.

If the other boat is to your starboard (right), it’s considered the stand-on or privileged vessel and is obligated to maintain course and speed. Your boat is the give-way vessel and is obligated to slow or alter course to pass behind it, ideally. If the boat intersecting your path is to port (left), it’s the give-way vessel. It’s obligated to yield while you’re obligated to maintain course and speed.

When overtaking another boat, keep in mind that the other boat is the stand-on vessel and yours is the give-way vessel. Your first move? Determine to which side of that craft is the safest to pass. Consider oncoming traffic, waterway markers, obstacles, or even bends in the channel. Once you have a clear path with good forward visibility, increase your speed enough so that you can safely overtake the other vessel, giving the craft a wide berth.

Encountering Kayaks, Sailboats, Etc.

Some vessels will almost always be the stand-on boat, and you must yield no matter the scenario, unless doing so will create an unsafe situation. Typically, this list includes paddlecraft and sailboats not under power, but it also includes larger craft, like ships or freighters. Realize these craft are not as maneuverable as most powerboats and, as such, the powerboat is deemed the give-way vessel.

Read Next: Boating Navigation Basics

When the Other Guy Doesn’t Know the Rules

No matter if you are the stand-on or give-way vessel, always be prepared in case the other boater doesn’t respond as you expect. Operate defensively, and be ready to yield, slow speed or change course to avoid any potentially dangerous situation. A good tip? Give other boaters plenty of space—100 feet or more—to allow enough time and distance to properly react and avoid an accident.

Know Your Colors

Do you know how to handle these scenarios at night, when you can’t see another boat, let alone determine its direction? Know your colors. Boats are required to display a green light to starboard (right) and a red light to port (left) at their bow, and most boats must display a single all-around white light at the stern. This combination of lights will help you determine which direction a boat is moving and if it’s likely to cross your path.

• More: Boating Safety , How-To , May 2022 , Seamanship

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Parts of a Sailboat – The Sails

By: Zeke Quezada, ASA Learn To Sail , Sailboats

It’s safe to say a sailboat is only as good as its sails when you consider that capturing the wind’s energy is the premise behind what sailors do to propel their boats in a forward direction. A good captain will trim those said sails to be as efficient as possible and the proper heading will help with overall performance, but the sail is the driving force of the boat.

Naturally, we should know the difference between the various sails and how they work.

These are the sails that you would find on a generic keelboat rigged as a sloop. It is, in fact, the common of sail plans and thus serves us well for this explanation of sails and their duties on a sailboat.

The Mainsail : It has its forward edge attached to the mast

The Headsail : This is a generic term that refers to any sail that sits forward of the mast. The most common is the Jib. When a jib is so large that it overlaps the mast it is called a genoa.

Parts of a Sail

• Luff -A sail’s forward edge. The luff of the mainsail is usually hoisted up and attached to the mast. The luff of the jib is attached to the forestay.
• Leech – The sail’s back edge.
• Foot – The bottom edge of the sail
• Tack – Between the luff and the foot is the tack. The tack is attached to the boat or a spar.
• Head – The corner at the top of the sail between the luff and the leech.
• Clew – The third triangle of a sail between the leech and the foot.
• Batten – Solid slats or rods to help maintain the desired airfoil shape.

Learning to Sail

• ASA 101: What You’ll Learn ASA 101 is your introduction to Basic Keelboat Sailboat and is your key to a lifetime of sailing.
• How To Sail Sailing a boat is part art and part skill but few activities offer such a variety of pleasures as sailing. Something special occurs when you cast off the lines and leave your cares at the dock.
• 7 Tips For The Beginning Sailor There are the obvious things you need when you go sailing, sunscreen, a hat, a windbreaker, non-skid shoes, and wind. However, what do you really need to be ready to head out on the water?
• How To Learn To Sail You won’t have to buy a boat or learn a new language or buy a new wardrobe to get a taste for sailing. You can dictate how much you want to experience.
• Learning To Sail Is Just The Beginning Sailing means different things to different people. At ASA we understand that learning to sail is just the beginning of a relationship with a lifestyle that is infectious. Where will sailing take you? We have a few ideas but how you view sailing is the most important.
• What Is Your Role on a Boat? What type of sailor are you and what role do you take on the boat? Your ASA sailing education will prepare you to be a skipper on a sailing vessel and with that comes the responsibility of keeping your crew safe and ensuring the safety of the vessel you are sailing.

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The Most Popular Types Of Sails On A Sailboat

A sloop-rigged sailboat typically features a mainsail, a headsail, and an additional light-wind sail, such as a spinnaker or Gennaker. The mainsail is rigged aft of the mast, while the headsail is attached to the forestay. The two most commonly used headsails are the Genoa and Jib.

The sails are vital parts of a sailboat since you obviously couldn’t sail without them! There are many different sails depending on the type of sailboat and its rig configuration, and we’ll walk through them together in this article.

The different types of sails on a sailboat

We can divide the selection of sails on a sailboat into three categories:

• Standard sails

Light-wind sails

• Storm sails

Each category serves different purposes depending on the vessel’s rig configuration and the sail’s functionality. 

The standard sails

The standard sails usually form a sailboat’s basic sail plan and include :

• The Mainsail
• The Staysail
• The Mizzen sail

These sails are the ones that are used most frequently on sloop, ketch, and cutter-rigged sailboats and are usually set up to be ready to use quickly.

Headsails are often rolled up on a furler, while the main and mizzen sail are stored on the boom or furled into the mast. 

The halyards and sheets are kept within easy reach, making these sails the primary choice in most situations. Let’s dive further into each of them.

The mainsail is a triangular sail that flies behind the mast on top of the boom . Although it may not always be the largest sail on the vessel, we commonly refer to it as “the main.”

It is a vital sail, and keeping the sail shape trimmed properly on every point of sail is crucial for the stability and performance of the boat.

A Jib sail is a headsail that does not overlap the mainsail. It is typically between 100% and 115% of the foretriangle but can also be smaller. The foretriangle is the triangular area formed by the mast, deck, and forestay. The Jib is often used with a self-tacking system involving a sheet traveler in front of the mast.

This sail is often seen on newer boats with fractional rigs, which typically have a larger mainsail area than the headsail area. However, the Jib is versatile and also used in other configurations.

People often mix the terms Genoa and Jib. Many refer to any headsail as a Jib, which is incorrect. I personally prefer to use the correct terms to avoid confusion .

A Genoa sail resembles a large Jib but extends past the mast and overlaps the mainsail. Genoas are usually larger than 115% of the foretriangle , with sizes ranging from 120% to 150%. They are often used on vessels with masthead rigs and smaller mainsails but are also common on fractional rigs.

The Staysail is typically found on cutter rigs and is set on the inner forestay or cutter stay. It can be combined with other sails, such as a Jib, Genoa, or Yankee, or on its own in stronger winds.

The Staysail is also useful when sailing downwind, as it can be paired with a headsail and extended to opposite sides of the boat using a pole.

The Yankee sail resembles a Genoa and Jib but has a high-cut clew. This shape allows for improved airflow when used with another headsail. The Yankee is often used on cutter-rigged boats in combination with a staysail and is known for its versatility in different wind conditions. 

Mizzen Sail

A mizzen sail is similar to the mainsail, only smaller . It is set on the aft mast of a boat with multiple masts, such as a ketch rig. The mizzen sail is usually used to provide balance and stability to the vessel and provides additional power when sailing downwind.

Another handy usage is to fly the mizzen at anchor to keep the bow up against waves and swell.

The light-wind sails are large, made of thin nylon, and typically shaped like a half-balloon. They are a type of headsails that are great when the winds are too light to fill the standard headsail and are often used when sailing downwind.

The four most commonly used light-wind sails are:

• The Spinnaker
• The Gennaker
• The Code Zero
• The Parasailor

They all provide excellent forward propulsion on a sailboat but usually require some extra rigging to be set. 

Experienced cruisers love to use light-wind sails in nice weather, but they have a critical weakness to be aware of. These sails easily get overpowered when the wind increases, and I strongly advise being careful and observant of the wind conditions when flying them.

(Yes, I have managed to rip mine on one occasion due to getting overpowered, but that’s a different story…)

Let’s continue and take a closer look at each of the light wind sails.

A Spinnaker sail is a large, lightweight downwind sail used at deep angles between 120 and 180 degrees. It is symmetrical in shape with two clews and is often brightly colored. 

The Spinnaker is set by using a pole to extend the sail’s clew to the vessel’s side. Then, a sheet is attached to the other clew and led back to the stern of the boat. 

A Gennaker sail combines the characteristics of the Genoa and Spinnaker. It is made of nylon like the Spinnaker but is asymmetrical like a Genoa and rigged slightly differently. The tack is attached to the bow, and the clew has a sheet led aft to the cockpit. The Gennaker can be equipped with a snuffer to make it even easier to set up and take down.

It is popular among cruisers because it is simpler to use than a spinnaker and it doesn’t require a pole. The sail is effective at angles between 90 degrees and almost all the way down to 180 degrees, making it versatile for various light-wind conditions.

A Parasailor is similar to the Spinnaker in many aspects but has some distinct differences. It has a double-layer wing that inflates as the sail is filled with air, creating a batten-like effect pushing the leech out while providing lift to the bow. 

The wing also helps to prevent the rolling movements you get with a Spinnaker and the collapsing of the leech that can occur with a Gennaker at deep angles.

This makes the parasailor effective at sailing angles between 70 and 180 degrees dead downwind. Parasailors can be set like a Gennaker when reaching or with a pole like the Spinnaker for running downwind.

A Code Zero sail combines some elements of the Genoa and Gennaker. Unlike the Gennaker, the Code Zero has a different shape, allowing it to be used while sailing upwind.

Another benefit is that it can be used with a furler which makes it easy to roll in and out. However, it can’t replace the Gennaker or Spinnaker entirely, as it is not effective at sailing angles deeper than 120 degrees.

If you see a big yacht with three forestay’s, the forward one probably holds a code zero sail. A bow spirit allows the ability to fly additional light wind sails as well!

Storm Sails

The storm sails consist of a small Mainsail and Jib in heavy-duty materials designed for rough conditions. These sails enable us to maintain speed and stability in the boat in severe weather too strong for the standard sails.

Storm sails are often brightly colored , such as red, orange, or yellow, to make them more visible at sea.

Storm Mainsail

A storm mainsail is used when the reefing setup doesn’t allow the standard mainsail area to be reduced enough to prevent overpowering. The sail can handle rough conditions and is excellent for maintaining stability.

A storm Jib is used when the headsail has been furled to the point where it is no longer effective. It is especially useful for sailboats rigged with a Genoa, as the Genoa gets inefficient when heavily reefed. As the storm Jib is smaller than the standard headsail, it also lowers the center of gravity, making the vessel heel less and become more stable.

Explaining the terms for the parts of a sail

Let us talk some more about sails. The goal is to go sailing, right?

Identifying the different parts of the sails is crucial to understanding which lines go where.

Let’s zoom in on a sail and break down the terms :

The head is the top corner of the sail . Most mainsails have a headboard or plate where the halyard is connected, while headsails use a metal ring. A halyard is a line we use to raise and lower sails with.

The leech is the aft part of a sail , located between the clew and head. We use a combination of the outhaul, main sheet, and traveler to trim and adjust the leech on the mainsail.

The headsail’s leech is trimmed by adjusting sheet tension and angle according to the wind speed and direction. A traveler is a track with a movable car or pulley system for adjusting the position and angle of a sheet, and most sailboats have one main traveler for the mainsail and car tracks along the side decks for the headsail. 

The luff of a sail is the front part of the sail between the tack and head. On a mainsail, the luff runs vertically along the mast and along or close to the forestay on a headsail. Headsails are often equipped with luff foam to help maintain their shape when partially reefed on a furler.

Battens are slats or tubes inserted into pockets on the mainsail to help the sail maintain its shape and increase its lifespan . A traditional sail hoisted and lowered on the boom typically has horizontal battens. Vessels with in-mast furling can use vertical battens instead of horizontal ones. 

• A fully battened Mainsail has the battens run through the entire sail length from the luff to the leech.
• A standard battened main sail has the battens along the sail’s leech.

Telltales are small ropes, bands, or flags attached to a sail to give an indication of the airflow around the sail. They help us understand how the wind affects the sail and allow us to fine-tune the trim for optimal performance. Telltales are usually found on the mainsail’s leech and in the front of the headsail’s leech.

The clew of a sail is the lower aft corner and where the outhaul is connected on a mainsail. Headsails have sheets attached to their clew for controlling and trimming the shape and tension.

The tack is the lower, forward corner of a sail.  On a traditional Mainsail, the tack is attached to the Gooseneck, a hinge in front of the boom attached to the mast.

With in-mast furling, the tack is connected to the furling mechanism. This mechanism is used to roll the sail into the mast.

The headsails tack is connected to a furler drum on the forestay on most sailboats. Vessels using traditional hank-on headsails connect the tack to a fixed point on the bow.

The foot of the mainsail is the bottom portion of the sail between the clew and the tack. It is trimmed using the outhaul, a line attached to the clew, and used to adjust the tension on the foot of the sail. Some mainsail are configured loose-footed, and others are attach-footed.

The foot of the headsail is trimmed by adjusting the tension and angle of the sheets, which are the lines used to control the headsail’s clew. We use cars, or pulleys, to adjust the angle of the sheets and thus the trim of the headsail.

Traditional and less commonly seen sails

We’ve now looked at the most commonly used sails and walked through the different parts of them. But what about the less common ones? The art of sailing has a rich history, with some unique sail designs that we rarely see today.

Read on if you want to peek into some traditional sails, or skip straight to popular sail and mast configurations here.

Square sails

Square sails are rectangular and usually set across a ship’s mast, mostly seen on traditional square-rigged sailing ships and Viking ships. These sails are efficient for downwind sailing and are hung from horizontal spars called yards. Though not as agile as modern fore-and-aft sails when sailing upwind, they were central to naval exploration for centuries. Today, they’re mainly seen on traditional vessels and tall ships, symbolizing maritime heritage.

If you’ve been to Martinique in the summer, you may also have noticed the round skiff sailboats the local fishermen traditionally used for fishing in the Atlantic Ocean with their distinctive big squared sails. Tour de Martinique des Yoles Rondes is a popular yearly event where the locals race and show off these beautiful old boats with colorful sails!

A gaff sail is a traditional four-sided sail held up by a horizontal spar called the “gaff.” They are used on classic gaff-rigged sailboats and allow for a larger sail area with a shorter mast. Gaff-rigged boats were traditionally popular and usually carried 25% more sail area than the equivalent Bermudan rig, making them fast on a downwind run. The Gaff rig could also carry a topsail between the gaff and the mast.

However, they don’t sail well to windward, and modern designs have shifted towards triangular sails for better upwind performance.

Jib-headed topsail

The Jib-headed topsail is a small triangular sail used on gaff rigs and is set between the gaff and the top of the mast.

A lug sail is an angled, four-sided sail that attaches at a point on its top side, making it hang tilted. The sail is simple to use and often found on smaller or older boats. There are different types, like standing, dipping, and balance lugs, each hanging differently around the mast.

The lug sail evolved from the square sail to improve how close the vessels could sail into the wind. Because of their upwind performance, fishermen used them widely in Europe from the seventeenth through the nineteenth centuries.

Sprit sails

The spritsail, with its unique four-sided design, stands out thanks to a diagonal support called the “sprit.” It was traditionally popular in Thames sailing barges due to its ability to accommodate high-deck cargo. These days, it’s primarily found in smaller boats like the Optimist dinghy in a variant called “leg of mutton spritsail.”

The spritsail was also used in traditional wooden boats like the fearing version of the Oselvar wooden boat traditionally used in western Norway.

It is also commonly used by the indigenous Guna Yala tribes in Panama in their dugout Ulu’s up to this day. We saw plenty of them when we cruised along the coast, and some of them approached us to sell us their delicious catch of the day!

Lateen sails

A lateen sail is a triangular sail set on a long spar angled on the mast. It was originally popular in the Mediterranean and on Arab shows, and its design enhanced maneuverability and played a crucial role in historic sea exploration.

The lateen sail was used on lateen rigs, the predecessor to the Bermuda rig – one of today’s most commonly used rigs!

Which brings us to the following topic:

Popular sail and mast configurations 

There are many different rigs and sail configurations between sailing vessels. From the old-school square rigs to schooners, gaff rigs, and more. However, this article will focus on the three most popular rigs seen on modern sailboats:

• The Bermuda Sloop Rig
• The Cutter Rig
• The Ketch Rig

The three rigs have similarities and differences between their sail and mast configurations. We’ll walk through each of them to understand how they utilize their different types of sail.

If you want to learn more about other rigs, take a look here .

Bermuda Sloop Rig

The Bermuda sloop rig is the most common rig on modern vessels. It is characterized by a single mast, a triangular mainsail, and a headsail. This rig is named after the Bermuda Islands, where it was developed in the 17th century. 

Some of the key features of the Bermuda sloop rig:

• The mast is typically tall and raked, which allows for a large sail area and excellent stabilit y.
• The mainsail is attached to the mast and boom. It is usually combined with a single headsail at the front of the boat, making it powerful and easy to sail.
• The Sloop is usually equipped with a masthead or fractional rig and flies a Jib or Genoa as its primary headsail.

The Bermuda Sloop rig is known for its simplicity, is often used for racing and cruising, and is popular among sailors worldwide.

The cutter rig is very similar to the sloop rig. The significant difference is that it has a single mast and two headsails – a Staysail and a Yankee. The cutter rig is known for its versatility due to the multiple options in sail plans and the double headsail setup.

Some key aspects that separate the Cutter from the Sloop:

• The rig is often more robust than its Sloop sister because of the additional cutter stay and running backstays.
• The mast is located closer to the center of the boat.
• The Cutter has a staysail on the inner forestay and a Yankee sail on the outer. The sails can be used in combination with each other or independently.
• Tacking the headsail between the forestay and cutter stay is more involved than on a sloop.
• The Cutter rig has two similar variations: the Slutter rig and the Solent rig.

Like the Sloop, the Cutter rig is relatively easy to operate. Still, the additional headsail and rigging make it costlier to maintain. It is also less suitable for racing than the Sloop, but the added versatility helps in different weather conditions and makes it an excellent choice for cruisers.

The ketch rig is also similar to the Sloop but has an additional mizzen mast placed further aft of the main mast. Another mast gives it the advantage of even higher versatility in sail plans. The ketch typically uses three sails. The mizzen sail, a mainsail, and a headsail. The mizzen mast also allows it to fly a second light-wind sail. 

Here are a few more distinctions of the ketch rig:

• The ketch typically carries a smaller mainsail than a similarly sized sloop and a smaller mizzen sail.
• A small mizzen and a medium mainsail are easier to handle than one large mainsail.
• The additional mizzen sail makes the vessel easy to balance and gives extra stability downwind.
• The ketch usually doesn’t point as close to the wind as the Sloop and Cutter.

The headsail setup on a ketch is generally the same as for the Sloop. But the ketch can also be rigged as a cutter ketch, which gives it the benefits of the cutter rig! The tradeoff with a cutter-rigged ketch is the higher complexity and additional rigging, hardware, and sails required.

Final words

Well done, you now have a good grasp of the most common sails and their strengths. We have discussed a few rigs and how they utilize different kinds of sails in various sail plans. Remember that more sail types, other rigs, and even more variations are available. It is a complex topic, but this guide covers the basics and gives you a great starting point.

If you still have questions, look below at the FAQ, or leave me a comment. I’m more than happy to help you out!

A sailboat is only as good as its sails, and sails need wind to work. The next logical step is learning how the wind works when we sail and practicing some wind awareness! Head to the following guide to continue your research: Learn The Difference Between True And Apparent Wind Speed.

FAQ: The Different Types of Sails On A Sailboat

What is the foretriangle on a sailboat.

The foretriangle on a sailboat refers to the triangular area formed between the mast, forestay, and deck. If you want to order a new headsail, for example, you’ll have to measure and supply the sailmaker with these details.

What is the difference between a loose-footed and attached-footed mainsail?

A loose-footed mainsail is attached to the boom only at its corners, leaving the rest of the sail’s bottom edge free. An attached-footed mainsail, on the other hand, is secured to the boom along its entire length. The main difference lies in how the bottom of the sail connects to the boom, with the loose-footed design offering more adjustability in the sail shape.

What is a high-cut clew on a sail?

A high-cut clew refers to the design of a foresail, such as a jib or genoa, where the back lower corner (the clew) is raised or “cut” higher above the deck compared to standard designs. This design allows for better visibility beneath the sail and makes it easier to sail over waves without the sail touching the water, which is especially beneficial for offshore or blue-water cruising. Very high-cut clews are commonly seen on yankee sails on cutter-rigged sailboats.

What is luff foam on a sail?

Luff foam is a padded strip sewn into the forward edge of roller furling sails. It ensures the sail is appropriately shaped when partially rolled up, especially in strong winds. This foam not only helps with sail performance but also protects the sail when it’s furled.

What are the most common sails?

The sloop rig sailboat is the most common and usually features a mainsail, a headsail, and an additional light-wind sail, such as a spinnaker or Gennaker.

What are the different types of sails?

There are several different types of sails, and we can divide the most common into three categories:

The standard sails:

• Mizzen sail

The light-wind sails

The storm sails:

• Storm mainsail
• Storm jib 

What is a spinnaker sail?

A Spinnaker sail is a large, lightweight downwind sail used at deep angles between 120 and 180 degrees.

What is a Jib sail?

A Jib sail is a headsail that does not overlap the mainsail and is set on the forestay. The Jib can also be set up with a self-tacking system, making it very effective when sailing into the wind.

Is Genoa sail the same as a jib?

People often mix the terms Genoa and Jib. The Genoa is different from a Jib sail as it is larger and overlaps the mainsail, whereas the Jib is smaller and does not overlap the mainsail.

What is a Genoa sail?

A Genoa is a headsail larger than the Jib extending past the mast and overlapping the mainsail. The advantage over the Jib is the larger sail area, making it more effective when sailing off the wind.

How many types of sail plans are there?

Sail plans refer to the configuration and arrangement of sails on a boat or ship. While there are countless customizations and variations, the three most common sail plans are:

Sloop: Characterized by a single mast, a triangular mainsail, and a headsail.

Cutter:  Similar to a sloop but has a single mast and carries two or more headsails.

Ketch: Features two masts, with the aft mast (called the mizzen) shorter than the main mast.

What is a Mainsail?

The mainsail is a triangular sail that flies behind the mast on top of the boom.

What is a Gennaker?

A gennaker is basically an asymmetrical spinnaker. A hybrid sail that combines the characteristics of a Genoa and a Spinnaker, designed for sailing off the wind and often used in light to moderate wind conditions.

What is a Storm Jib?

A storm jib is a small, heavy-duty sail used in strong winds or stormy conditions. It is commonly used when the headsail has been furled to the point where it is no longer effective.

What factors determine the type of sail to be used?

The type of sail to be used depends on various factors such as wind conditions, points of sail, sailboat size , and sailing experience. It’s smart to choose the appropriate sail for optimal performance. A Jib, for example, will be more effective than a Genoa while sailing to windward, and vice versa.

How do sails affect the performance of a sailboat?

Sails are the engine of a sailboat. Their design, size, and trim influence the boat’s speed, direction, and stability. Properly adjusted sails capture wind efficiently, allowing the boat to move faster and in the desired direction.

The balance and condition of the sails also impact comfort and safety, with well-maintained sails ensuring optimal performance. The sails are essential in determining how a sailboat performs in various wind conditions.

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Skipper, Electrician and ROV Pilot

Robin is the founder and owner of Sailing Ellidah and has been living on his sailboat since 2019. He is currently on a journey to sail around the world and is passionate about writing his story and helpful content to inspire others who share his interest in sailing.

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Composting Heads for Cruising Sailboats

• By Heather Francis
• Updated: August 2, 2021

I first got a whiff of the composting-toilet trend a couple of years ago when my Instagram feed exploded with stories of cruisers replacing their regular marine toilets with modern composting versions. It didn’t even occur to me that one day we would join the composting-toilet movement too. Then, after 10 years of trouble-free use, we started getting blockages in the head.

This new development, along with a pervasive “toilet funk” in the cupboards—not so much stale salt water but an odor more like a dirty public bathroom—led us to believe that after a decade, the hard sanitation hose that connected the toilet discharge to the overboard seacock had deteriorated. But we also needed to address another fault in the system: the lack of a reasonable-­size holding tank.

When we bought Kate , our 1973 Newport 41, in 2008, the seller had recently installed a holding tank to comply with US Coast Guard regulations. The undersize 5-gallon holding tank may have been compliant, but it didn’t have the capacity to keep up with everyday use. Since none of the authorities in the 13 countries we have sailed to ever inquired about our holding tank, this hadn’t been an issue.

However, our next stops were Borneo and Malaysia, where marina stays would be possible and regulations are reportedly followed. A functioning holding tank would be necessary. As we drew straws to decide who got the job of jumping overboard to snake the discharge through-hull, and hopefully free the blockage, we decided it was finally time to find a solution to our toilet troubles.

A Composting Toilet?

So what, exactly, is a composting toilet? Simply put, it’s a type of sanitation system that does not use water to dispose of human waste. This “dry” system promotes decomposition through controlled aerobic conditions, or composting. Unlike a port-a-potty or chemical toilet, composting toilets separate liquid and solid waste, which speeds up ­decomposition and reduces odors. To control moisture content and further aid in odor elimination, urine-­diversion dry composting toilets (UDDC) line the solids tank with a naturally sourced medium such as coconut coir or peat moss. As well, most units vent to the outside via a small extraction fan and ductwork.

The two most popular brands of UDDC toilets on the market today are Nature’s Head and Air Head. Both are constructed from ABS plastic and are ­similarly priced ($925 and $1,030, respectively, online) but vary slightly in overall design. We decided on the Air Head for two main reasons. First, the toilet seat is both the same size and shape as our previous marine toilet. We hoped that this would give the user a feel that we were accustomed to. Second, the design of the Air Head makes it possible to remove the liquid tank without opening the solid tank. This thoughtful design feature alone makes it preferable to the competition. Add the smaller footprint and a lack of sharp corners, and the Air Head seemed like the perfect fit for our boat.

The Installation

Installing our Air Head composting toilet was extremely easy. Due to its compact size, we were able to place the unit where our original toilet had been mounted, without modifying any cabinetry. Our only stumbling block was that our traditional ceramic toilet was mounted on a raised pedestal to bring it up to a standard user height, 14 inches from floor to seat. To ­accommodate the built-in solids tank, the Air Head measures 19 ­inches from floor to seat. This “comfort height” is installed in wheelchair-accessible stalls in public bathrooms. When we placed the Air Head on top of our raised pedestal, it measured 25 inches from floor to seat. This elevation made it feel more like you are perching on the edge of the toilet rather than sitting squarely atop it. We investigated removing the pedestal but quickly discovered that it concealed the curve of the hull. Removing it would give us a few inches but not a level surface. We continued with Plan A and waited to see if the toilet height would be a pain in the butt. Literally.

The Air Head toilet is held in place with four simple stainless-steel brackets. Screwed down to the floor, the brackets capture bolts on the sides of both the solid and liquid tanks, which tighten down with simple wingnuts to secure the toilet in place. The only other thing to do is run the ventilation hose and wire in a small fan.

Included with the Air Head is a short length of flexible hose and a ventilation cam, which houses the fan. To avoid cutting more holes in the boat, we chose to repurpose the solar vent in the cabin top, which had failed the season before. It was still necessary to run wires to the 12-volt fan, but with the exterior housing of the solar vent in place, the exhaust fan was weather-protected.

Our installation isn’t ­winning any design awards, but it took less than an hour and didn’t require any structural modifications—a rare bragging point when discussing boat projects. Besides, when it comes to toilets, ­function is more important than aesthetics. After ­installation, there is only one thing you need to do to prep the Air Head for use: Add the coconut coir to the solids tank.

Prepping for Use

Coconut coir is a natural, renewable product made from coconut husks. Sold at garden centers mainly as a growing medium, it is readily ­available worldwide. Coconut coir comes in dry, compressed blocks that are reconstituted with water, making them easy to store. A single 10-by-4-by-2-inch block will fluff up to about 8 liters of mulch. The Air Head comes with one coconut coir brick, but we have found that using one and a half bricks creates a better starting volume. Add too little coconut coir, and there won’t be enough to cover the waste when you “stir” it after use; add too much, and you are taking up valuable space in the tank.

RELATED: Sailing Totem: A Frank Discussion of Marine Heads

When working with a natural product, it’s important to remember that no two bricks will be the same, so it is difficult to state the exact amount of water needed. However, the instructions say that the coconut should be hydrated into a “moist sawdust-like consistency” that resembles “damp crumbly earth” but should not look “muddy.” It is also important to consider that the coconut coir will absorb moisture from the solid waste when the toilet is in use. So, as we found out the hard way, erring on the side of dry is preferable.

Using the Toilet

The Air Head toilet bowl looks strangely small and shallow, and we wondered if it would work as claimed. Not surprisingly, the designers put a lot of thought into the shape and function of the toilet, and I am happy to report that we’ve had no troubles at all after six months of daily use.

Other than remembering to flip the handle to open the trap door to the solids tank before use, and to stir the solids after use using the crank on the side of the tank, the Air Head functions the same as a standard toilet. There is no splash back when you pee, and the urine is neatly diverted into the liquids tank. Similarly, the size of the opening to the solids tank worked fine. No mess, no fuss.

After use, I usually wipe down the basin with a bit of toilet paper and use a little spritz of diluted vinegar every couple of days just to keep things tidy. Between uses, keep the gasketed lid closed. Easy. The only trouble we encountered was a noticeable odor for the first week or so of use. This was not the “pleasant earthy” smell as often described in reviews of composting toilets, but rather a definite manure stink wafting from the vent. Happily, adding a handful of dry coconut coir to the solids tank remedied the issue. Less moisture equals less odor.

Emptying the Toilet

A composting toilet is a closed system that requires the solids and liquids tanks to be emptied regularly. The liquids tank has a small, opaque sight glass at the top, which indicates when it is full. Removing the liquids tank is as simple as backing off two wingnuts and slipping out the tank. A screw-on cap is supplied to ensure a dry run to the dump location. The amount of people on board and frequency of use will dictate how often the tank needs to be emptied.

As expected, urine that sits in a tank for a few days will be a bit smelly, so a good rinse after emptying is necessary. Do not use bleach to clean the liquids tank because chlorine and the ammonia in urine combine to create a very toxic chloramine gas. A simple soap-and-water wash will suffice. After several weeks of use, the tank can accumulate crystalline deposits. Adding a handful of rice or dried beans to the wash cycle is enough to knock off any scale.

I must admit that I wasn’t sure what to expect the first time I prepared to empty the solids tank. The manual describes it as the “highlight of the tour,” and although I think that’s a bit of hyperbole, it was not completely unpleasant. We did get the estimated 60 uses into the tank before it needed to be emptied, but even when full, it did not smell when opened and was more loamy compost than toilet tank.

The seat is removed by easing off four wingnuts, turning the top slightly, and separating the bowl from the solids tank. A flat lid, which locks in the same way, is included to seal the tank for transport. The whole tank is removed from the mounting brackets and taken to a dump site. Because all the solids are organic, they can be dumped into a sewage system or disposed of like a soiled diaper. There is no need to rinse the solids tank. In fact, it is good to have a little organic matter clinging to the sides because this will kick-start the next composting process. As well, Air Head includes a small packet of enzymes that can be added to the solids tank to boost decomposition if things seem slow.

Final Thoughts

We installed the Air Head toilet in February 2020 while we were on the hard in the Philippines. Weeks later, before we had a chance to relaunch, the COVID-19 ­pandemic shut down the world. At press time, I have been stranded in the boatyard, alone and on board, for several months and counting. I can’t tell you how much I appreciate having a private, functioning, odor-free, comfortable toilet that works while the boat is out of the water.

The Air Head is considered a Type III Marine Sanitation Device, which means that we are now compliant with the international IMO MARPOL 73/78 regulations. Between the ease of installation, maintenance-free use, and peace of mind knowing that we can use the head anytime and anywhere, our composting toilet is one of the best upgrades we’ve ever done on board.

Heather Francis is from Nova Scotia, Canada, and has lived and worked on boats throughout the world. Since 2008, she has been sailing aboard Kate , a Newport 41, with her Aussie partner, Steve. They are currently in the Philippines. Follow them at yachtkate.com .

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The Lowdown on Headsail Options

March 8, 2022

Having the right headsail for the job is important. In this article, Quantum experts break down the different headsails that may make up your sail inventory.  

Many factors determine the best headsail inventory for you: the type of sailing you do, the conditions you typically sail in, and the design, size, and shape of your boat. You’ll also need a mix of sails that can perform at upwind, reaching, and downwind angles. Upwind sails optimize lift at the tightest angles to the wind; reaching sails optimize driving force across the wind; and downwind sails optimize drive when in “push mode.” Understanding how air flows across the sails helps to explain why sails are cut and sized differently for those angles and will help to inform the best usage of each headsail. 

Most boats won’t have all the headsails listed in this article, and inventories can differ drastically from boat to boat. While we’re focused on headsails for racing in this article, whether you’re a racer or a cruiser, understanding the differences in headsails will help you optimize your inventory for the kind of sailing you do. 

Upwind Headsails 

The ability to create lift through efficient sail shape is paramount for an upwind headsail. As with the mainsail, lift is generated when the camber, or curve of the sail, creates smooth but differing air flow speed on the windward and leeward sides of the sail. In different apparent wind speeds and angles, different sail sizes and shapes are needed to keep the boat at its optimal angle of heel and speed. As a rule of thumb, deeper sails create a driving force that is more aft (lower lift/drag ratio), and flatter sails create a driving force that is angled closer to the wind (higher lift/drag ratio). All sails create some drag that pulls the yacht sideways that the keel must counter. The ability to balance side force versus driving force is the secret to a well-designed sail.

Upwind headsails go through a narrow range of apparent wind angles, but they see the greatest change in apparent wind speed of any of the sails. Because of this change, what works best in five knots of wind speed will not be your best sail option in 25 knots of wind speed. When racing, upwind headsails are limited in area to keep a yacht’s handicap rating from becoming too high. For this reason, in lighter winds they don’t make good reaching sails. When rating isn’t in play, you can combine a few upwind and reaching sails for better performance. In a perfect world, yachts would have multiple rigs, much like windsurfers or 18-foot skiffs, and these rigs would have sails that are appropriately sized with depths for optimum performance in a given wind speed. But we don’t live (or sail) in a perfect world, so all yachts go through a transition upwind from being underpowered to having too much sail area. You will need to find ways to increase power with smaller sails and then reduce sail. The ability to change headsails is the most efficient way to accomplish this. 

If your headsail is large enough to overlap part of the mainsail, it is classified as a genoa. Light genoas, or G1s and Number 1s, are designed to be deep and powerful in lighter winds to maximize drive, even at the expense of added drag and side force. Similar to a Number 1 genoa, the lighter jibs are designed to produce as much power as possible. But as the wind increases, these sails become overly powerful and create too much side force, and you will need to flatten the sails. Your J2 or medium jib/genoa will still give you an efficient sail shape at maximum area. Once the wind speed increases, you cannot flatten a sail enough while maintaining efficiency, so you must reduce sail area. Some yachts will have several heavy air specialty sails that get smaller and smaller, though most yachts with genoas will switch to J3, J3.5, J4, and J5 jibs. As the numbers increase, the sail size decreases.

A note on cruising upwind headsails:  A typical upwind cruising headsail inventory may contain a J1, J2, and J3, or more frequently, only one upwind headsail, which makes sense since cruisers are often sailing short-handed or with crew who have a mixed bag of skill levels. Cruisers tend to rely more on furling to depower rather than switching to a smaller or flatter sail. For this reason, cruising sails are designed with furling in mind so sails can perform up-range yet still maintain desired sail shape and performance when furled. Stay tuned for a follow-up article that shares information on headsails designed for cruising.

Reaching Sails

When sailing upwind or downwind, you can find an optimal angle that balances speed with velocity made good (VMG), but when reaching you want to go as fast as possible across the wind toward your next mark or waypoint. Therefore, reaching sails must be designed and built to accommodate for this difference. One similarity reaching sails have with upwind headsails is that they transition quickly from not having enough power to having too much power as the wind speed increases. Reaching sails also see a variety of both apparent wind angles and apparent wind speeds. In some wind speeds, a spinnaker can work for reaching, but the boat will perform better at that angle if you change the area and shape of the sail. Many asymmetrical spinnakers will also overpower you in heavier air at reaching angles.

While we prefer to use specialty reaching sails, some racing rules require only jibs or asymmetrical spinnakers. The problem with using downwind sails while reaching is related to materials, loads, and apparent wind angles. New materials aren't as fragile as they once were but reaching with sails not designed for the increased loads of sailing at these angles can be problematic. There is so much corner load when reaching that sails built for reaching need to be reinforced with stronger materials. As you start to reach closer to the wind direction, your apparent wind speed increases rapidly. This also increases the heeling movement sails produce, which is typically the limiting factor in determining which reaching sail you can use. Unlike headsails that you can luff, a free-flying headsail such as an asymmetric spinnaker will just flap if you try to sail it too high. If you could fill the sail, it would generate too much side force because it is optimized to drag a yacht downwind. When reaching, we want a sail that is more wing-shaped and can drive the yacht forward, not backward. 

CODE ZEROS/AWA 40, AWA 60, AWA 80

A solution to the materials, loads, and apparent wind angles equation lies with specialty reaching sails. Often referred to as code zeros or AWA sails , these sails are designed to cover a wide range of reaching angles. While classified under most rating rules as a spinnaker or downwind sail, codes and AWAs are flat enough to handle points of sail closer to the wind without excessive drag. Because of their wide range of angles, AWAs and code zeros are a useful tool for bridging the gap between downwind and upwind sails. AWA sails and code zeros are often used in both racing and cruising inventories . There are also plenty of other specialty reaching headsail options such as wind seekers, jib top reachers, blast reachers, genoa staysails, and spinnaker staysails that can be used to complement code zeros, AWA sails, and spinnakers. These sails are typically used in larger racing inventories.

Downwind Sails

Downwind headsails are generally made for “push mode,” meaning they’re built with more curve to enhance driving force when sailing with the breeze. Downwind symmetrical kites can sail deep angles as the wind is meant to flow into them and then separate and create as much drag as possible, unlike asymmetrical kites that, similar to reaching sails, allow the wind to flow across the sail to create more lift. 

ASYMMETRICAL KITES

Now we’re focusing on yachts carrying asymmetrical kites. A downwind sail’s main purpose is to allow a yacht to sail its optimal VMG angle downwind as fast as possible. Like upwind sails, the area of the sail will be limited when racing ratings are in play to achieve a more favorable rating. A larger kite will go faster downwind until its geometry becomes too deep and wide. Yachts are usually rated for the optimal area for lighter air kites. Heavier air kites are sometimes slightly smaller than you would make in absence of any rules because most yachts spend the majority of their time racing in 12 knots or less. In lighter winds, the best wind angle will always be to sail higher than dead downwind to increase apparent wind speed, which allows the yacht to transfer as much kinetic energy from the wind as possible. By sailing higher angles in lighter wind, you can double your apparent wind speed and increase the power your yacht harnesses from the wind by almost four times while sailing only 15 percent more distance. 

As your apparent wind speed increases and your sail angles tighten, your apparent wind angle decreases. Lighter air kites made of lighter cloth and flatter shapes operate in narrower apparent wind angles and have less apparent wind speed than heavy air kites. As you sail wider angles, optimum depth for your kite increases as the wider apparent wind angle acts to push the yacht, making a deeper sail more efficient. Lighter yachts that sail across the wind because they can sail faster speeds tend to have flatter kites compared to yachts that are heavier and sail more directly downwind.

DETERMINING HEADSAIL OPTIONS

Many factors go into selecting the perfect headsail, among them rig type, typical conditions, typical wind range, type of sailing, and racing ratings. Take time to assess these variables and what types of headsails will best serve you upwind, downwind, and reaching. If you have questions or would like help making a sail plan, give your local loft a call. Quantum experts can expand on any of the headsails in this article and help determine where the gaps in your inventory may be. But be prepared: You might discover your new secret weapon!

The Discussion

You mention both Code Zeros and Blast Reachers in this article but not Jib Tops. Have Code Zeros effectively replaced the need for Jib Top sails on boats with overlapping headsails in reaching conditions or is there still a roll for Jib Tops?

Blast Reacher and Jib Top are interchangeable for all practical purposes. Rarely do yachts these days have both sails. In the past, they may have had a 155% LP Jib Top and a 110% LP Blast Reacher. These days, esp with most yachts having non-overlapping sails, they have one reacher, which is called either the JT or the BR. This means to me that a Jib Top (155%) may still be applicable to an overlapping headsail sailplan in lighter/moderate winds and a blast reacher used in heavier air. The big difference is that a JT would not be in the inventory of a non-overlapping headsail inventory. Beacuse Chris's article was referencing the non-overlapping sailplan the JT was left out. I hope that answers your questions. If I can help further you can reach me at [email protected]. Thanks for the feedback on the article.

Thank you for the information. Trying to understand where is the different between headsail to code zero and Aso. Blast reacher can seem as mini code zero. Which rule will determine and differ between the two sails? Thank you in advance for your answer. Yehuda

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Coast Guard rescues 2 people after boat capsized off Hilton Head Island

HILTON HEAD ISLAND, S.C. (WTOC) - The United States Coast Guard Station Tybee rescued two people off the coast of Hilton Head Island.

Officials say the boat crew helped two boaters after their 22-foot boat capsized 10 miles off Hilton Head Island Saturday.

A good Samaritan responded to the urgent broadcast by U.S. Coast Guard Sector Charleston to pull the two boaters wearing life jackets out of the water.

“We remind the public to ensure their equipment is in serviceable condition before getting on the water. We recommend having an emergency position indication radio beacon (EPIRB) or personal locator beacon (PLB) that can help take the search out of search and rescue,” said Lt. Michael Allen, Sector Charleston Command Duty Officer.

Copyright 2024 WTOC. All rights reserved.

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Boat sinks after accident on Lake Cumberland, 1 flown to UK for treatment

LAKE CUMBERLAND, Ky. ( FOX 56 ) — Four boaters were forced to swim to shore after a boating accident Thursday evening near Campbell’s Landing boat ramp.

Russell County Search and Rescue said they received a call around 8:30 p.m. about a boat that had sustained heavy damage and sank after an accident. The four boaters were forced to swim to shore but were fortunately wearing lifejackets.

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Rescue crews confirmed that two individuals were injured, with one needing to be flown by helicopter to the University of Kentucky Hospital for head trauma and a hand injury. The other only received minor injuries and refused treatment.

The cause of the accident is still under investigation.

Copyright 2024 Nexstar Media, Inc. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.

For the latest news, weather, sports, and streaming video, head to FOX 56 News.

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The breakwater where encon officials say a boat crashed the evening of labor day is a part of the investigation. the location has been subject to crashes in previous years including two just last summer., by kevin gaiss • published september 3, 2024 • updated on september 3, 2024 at 8:02 pm.

“It’s just a tragedy, it really is, Kimberly Keinz, of Old Saybrook, said.

She lives across the street from the Harbor One Marina at Saybrook Point. The investigation and search lasted all day Tuesday. She noted the number of sirens and first responders that came to the area after the crash.

Free 24/7 Connecticut news stream: Watch NBC CT wherever you are

“There was a little chop but not a bad night otherwise,” said a boater, who wished to remain anonymous, who was crossing through that area after a boating trip with family.

He estimated he passed through the same area as the crash about 15 to 20 minutes before it happened.

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“Last night was definitely a dark night,” he said.

According to officials in a press conference Tuesday afternoon, they are investigating darkness as a factor in the crash, though they noted the boat had appropriate instruments.

They are also considering speed as a factor.

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That boater noted he has run boats in and out of Old Saybrook his whole life, and understands the breakwater is hard to see, especially on a particularly dark night.

“The lighthouse and the inner light right behind it, which I think some people may confuse with the inlet of the river that your home and they don’t realize you aren’t home,” he said.

Though Encon police said the channel is properly marked, it's also part of the investigation.

“They are marked, and it's something we are looking into,” Captain Keith Williams with Connecticut Environmental Conservation Police said.

Last year, on Labor Day weekend, four were injured in a similar crash. A boat crashed into the breakwater.

A few weeks before that at the end of July, another boat crashed on a jetty at the mouth of the river. A man was sent to the hospital in that crash.

“It doesn’t happen that often, but we have had a few in the last couple of years,” Captain Williams said.

Some stopping by Tuesday wondered what could be done along the channel to prevent this from happening again. As did the boater passing through ahead of the crash.

“I don’t know if they can do anything to improve that wall to light it up,” he said.

While investigators determine the cause and how to keep these crashes from happening in the future, those stopping by the boat recovery said they are thinking of the family.

“You hate to see any incident, any tragedy where there is loss of life,” Keinz said.

Even though boating season is winding down, officials are still offering the reminder to always have the appropriate life jackets on board and always make sure your instruments are working, and you are familiar with them.

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Coast Guard rescues 2 boaters off Hilton Head Island

HILTON HEAD ISLAND, S.C. (WCSC) - The U.S. Coast Guard rescued two people off the coast of Hilton Head Island this weekend after their boat capsized.

Coast Guard Tybee Station said a 22-foot boat capsized 10 miles off Hilton Head on Saturday.

A good Samaritan responded to an urgent broadcast by U.S. Coast Guard Sector Charleston and pulled the two boaters out of the water. Both were wearing life jackets, the Coast Guard said on Facebook .

Coast Guard officials urged the public to make sure their equipment is in serviceable condition before they get on the water.

“We recommend having an emergency position indication radio beacon or personal locator beacon that can help take the search out of search and rescue,” Sector Charleston Lt. Michael Allen said.

It was not clear what caused the boat to capsize.

Copyright 2024 WCSC. All rights reserved.

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