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Rolex Yacht-Master II Ultimate Buying Guide

There are some Rolex watches that are more or less universally loved, with a simple and versatile aesthetic that leaves little room for any sort of animosity. However, there are others within the portfolio that almost seem to have been created specifically to invite controversy, taking the brand away from its traditional design base and into more contentious territories. The Rolex Yacht-Master II collection is one of those watches.

When it arrived in the mid-2000s, the Yachtmaster II was so far removed from anything Rolex had created before that nobody seemed to know quite what to make of it. The watch was a big, bold and extremely expensive addition to the catalog, and while it was obviously slotted into the brand’s Professional Collection, it stuck out like the proverbial sore thumb. However, that was back then. Looking at the brand’s catalog today, it seems that Rolex was simply ahead of the game.

The Yacht Master II’s once challenging looks have matured, and although it is still most definitely a visually striking watch, it is no longer considered completely over the top. Mechanically, it is also incredibly impressive. On its debut, it instantly became Rolex’s most complicated watch, with a one-of-a-kind functionality aimed at about as niche a group as you could imagine. Below we have laid out a complete guide to the Rolex Yacht-Master II with everything you need to know in order to make an informed decision.

Rolex Yacht-Master II

Yacht-Master II Key Features:

– Year Introduced: 2007

– Case Size: 44mm

– Materials: Oystersteel; Everose Rolesor; 18k Yellow Gold; 18k White Gold & Platinum

– Functions: Time w/Running Seconds, Programmable Regatta Timer w/ Mechanical Memory

– Dial: White w/ Luminous Hour Markers

– Bezel: Ring Command, Blue Ceramic or Platinum Insert w/ 10-Minute Countdown Scale

– Crystal: Sapphire (Flat)

– Movement: Rolex Caliber 4161

– Water Resistance: 100 Meters / 330 Feet

– Strap/Bracelet: Oyster Bracelet

– Retail Price: $18,750 – $48,150 USD (Approx.)

For more info, visit our guide on how to use the regatta timer on the Rolex Yacht-Master II.

Rolex Yacht-Master II History

Launched in 2007, the Rolex Yacht Master II debuted some 15-years after its original Yachtmaster namesake. However, the similarities between this watch and the model that first carried the Yacht-Master name are pretty much zero.

Where the earlier model is essentially a more luxurious take on the Rolex Submariner, the Yacht-Master II is a fully-fledged item of luxury professional sailing equipment, designed from the outset to assist skippers keep track of time during the complicated starting sequence of a regatta. That technically leaves the Yacht-Master II in the tool watch category, but this is a long way from the likes of the more utilitarian Explorer II and evidence of that can be found in its release schedule.

The first versions of the Rolex Yacht Master II to be unveiled were the 18k yellow gold ref. 116688 and the even more opulent 18k white gold version fitted with a platinum bezel, the ref. 116689. Quite a bit removed from the brand’s usually conservative styling, this large, gleaming, in-your-face effort that shouted its own name across its bezel, was an immediate opinion splitter. Traditionalists were horrified, lamenting Rolex’s continued straying from its roots, while others who enjoy having their watches noticed, embraced it wholeheartedly.

The financial crash that followed in 2008 altered the landscape for watchmakers (along with everyone else) and called for more affordable pieces to come forward. The Yachtmaster II collection expanded in 2011 with the unveiling of the ref. 116681, an Everose Rolesor model with a stainless steel case and outer bracelet links paired with a winding crown, pushers, and central links in Everose gold. That was followed by the version everyone was clamoring for in 2013 – the ref. 116680 in full stainless steel, which also introduced a new caliber, the Cal. 4161, replacing the former Cal. 4160.

The only other change the watch has undergone since then occurred on its 10th anniversary in 2017, when it was given a facelift so slight that Rolex didn’t even feel it warranted a new reference number. The square hour markers at the six and 12 o’clock were changed to a rectangle and inverted triangle respectively, and the simple stick handset was swapped for the Mercedes type to bring them in-line with much of the rest of the brand’s Professional Collection.

How Much Is A Rolex Yacht-Master II?

When the Rolex Yacht-Master II first arrived, the combination of its exclusively precious metal construction and the extraordinary engineering going on inside its movement meant that it was among the most expensive offerings in Rolex’s catalog . This left many admirers priced out of the picture, but the introduction of stainless steel and two-tone references would soon open the Yacht-Master II up to a much wider range of buyers.

The Rolesor model from 2011 sacrificed some of that wall-to-wall gold for 904L stainless steel and more or less cut the asking price in half, while the full steel version dropped the retail price even further. Today, brand-new examples vary from $18,750 for the full stainless steel model up to $48,150 for the white gold and platinum version. But what about pre-owned prices?

The rather love-it-or-hate-it visuals of the Rolex Yacht Master II means that it doesn’t attract quite the same level of universal frenzy as the Daytona or Submariner. It is not completely out of the question for an authorized retailer to even have a model or two in stock, which isn’t something that can be said about the vast majority of the brand’s other sports watches. For that reason, pre-owned models do command a bit of a premium, but nowhere near as much as some of the other models in the brand’s catalog.

You can expect to pay a minimum of around $18,000 for an unworn steel piece on the secondary market, while the Everose Rolesor edition comes in closer to about $25,000. The 18k yellow gold ref. 116688 also holds pretty steady, with most examples falling somewhere in the $40,000 to $45,000 range, depending on age and overall condition. Finally, the ref. 116689 – the top-of-the-line model in white gold and platinum, is where the biggest discounts can be found. A brand-new example costs $48,150 at an authorized dealer, but an older example on the pre-owned market can often be found for just under $30,000.

Rolex Yacht-Master II Design

The Yacht-Master II is arguably the least “Rolex-looking” Rolex watch ever made, which is the core reason behind why it ruffled so many feathers among purist collectors upon its release. It’s arrival took the brand down previously unexplored experimental paths, a very far cry from the sort of discreetly restrained icons present throughout the rest of its portfolio.

The Yacht-Master II is a hard-working watch with a lot of information to present and as a result, it has what initially looks like somewhat of a cluttered dial. However, a lot of that is down to a trick of the eye concerning the bezel’s 1-10 numerals being mirrored exactly around the horseshoe-shaped track on the face. This is obviously the regatta countdown scale, designed to help yacht skippers synchronize their boats’ movements with the race’s starting gun (we’ll get onto this more a little later).

What it means for the overall styling is a lot of numbers on the watch that you will not be using for the vast majority of the time you are wearing it. But while it may come across as a little jam-packed – particularly when you add in the chronograph hand, arrowhead countdown pointer, and a small running seconds sub-dial at the bottom – once you get used to it, you can’t help but be impressed with how much Rolex’s technicians have achieved with so little. No, it isn’t exactly the Explorer’s 3/6/9 arrangement, but it is perfectly readable with a little familiarity and conveys the information it provides in a clean and legible manner.

Despite only containing four models (all of which have white dials), the series actually covers a good range of tastes. The ref. 116688 could be in the running for most showy standard-production Rolex currently available, its all-yellow gold case somehow making the bright blue bezel pop even more. At the other end, the white gold and platinum ref. 116689 is as low-key and reserved as a 44mm wide, 14mm thick, highly-complicated, solid-gold sports watch can be. The virtual monochrome is lifted only by the red chrono hand and arrowed pointer.

In-between, the stainless steel and Everose Rolesor models do the job of appealing to more middle-of-the-road palates. Their color combinations, along with the mix of brushed and polished elements on the watch itself, keep it all on the right side of overdone, and the two-tone model’s bezel numerals also being filled in Everose gold is a nice touch. Unlikely to ever be described as subtle, any version of the Rolex Yacht-Master II is guaranteed to receive some attention.

Rolex Yacht-Master II Functions

Looks aside, the big talking point around the Rolex Yacht Master II lies in what it can do. There is a strong argument against calling the watch a genuine chronograph as it doesn’t so much keep track of elapsed time in the traditional sense, as it does count backwards from a specific starting point, up to a maximum of 10-minutes.

How is that useful? It is all down to how a professional regatta gets underway. Due to the nature of wind and water, it simply isn’t possible to get a bunch of yachts all lined up at a particular spot in the ocean and have them set off at the same time. Instead, the start of a race goes in stages, with each one marked by a gunshot or other audible signal. The first is usually sounded 10-minutes before the start (although it can also be seven or even five), and the skippers must maneuver their boats back and forth in front of the line without crossing it, jockeying with the other competitors for prime position.

There follows two further preparatory signals at precise intervals, and crews must coordinate their approach so they are as close to the start point as possible at the exact moment the race officially begins. It is that pair of additional signals that call into action one of the party tricks of the Yacht-Master II’s unique complication. Should the watch fall out of sync with the regatta reference clock for any reason, a press of the lower pusher activates the flyback (or fly-forward) function, snapping the chronograph hand to the nearest minute to allow the two timers to match up again. Even more notably, it is the only mechanical watch in the world with a programmable memory, meaning the wearer can reset back to the specified original countdown point at any time.

Giving access to all this engineering virtuosity is what Rolex has dubbed its Ring Command Bezel. This was the first appearance of the concept, with the second generation taking control of the Sky-Dweller’s myriad of functions a few years later. On both models, the bezel is directly linked to the internal movement, and on the Yacht-Master II, it acts as an analogue on/off switch. Rotating it 90° unlocks the functionality and allows for the countdown timer to be set with the crown. Turning it back again locks everything in place, and engages the memory. The watch is then operated as a standard chronograph, with the top pusher activating the starts and stops, and the bottom taking charge of the reset or flyback/fly-forward functions.

For a manufacturer not renowned for the complexity of its watches (quite the opposite, in fact) Rolex’s regatta timer is a seriously impressive performer. It may have been created for an especially select group, but it is truly surprising how useful it can be to count down accurately from 10-minutes, even for those of us who may not own a yacht – particularly if you like your pasta al dente.

Rolex Yacht-Master II Movement

The first run of the Rolex Yacht-Master II was powered by the in-house Caliber 4160. At the time, it was the most component-heavy movement the brand had ever created, but it was essentially a heavily reworked version of the Cal. 4130 from the Daytona. The column wheel, vertical clutch and ball-bearing rotor were all carried over from the brand’s legendary racing chronograph.

Obviously there is nothing wrong with that, and the Rolex Daytona’s movement remains one of the most reliable and accurate mass-produced chronograph calibers of the modern era. However, with the arrival of the long-awaited stainless steel Yacht-Master II in 2013, Rolex also unveiled a new mechanism, the Caliber 4161, the product of additional refinements and some 35,000 hours of development.

Made up of over 360 components, including those produced via a highly specialized fabrication process called UV-LiGA which uses ultraviolet light to build microstructures, this dedicated movement provided a crisper feel to the pushers and greater reliability. With that in mind, both the Cal. 4160 and the Cal. 4161 benefitted from Rolex advances such as the blue Parachrom hairspring, as well as providing users with a highly-respectable 72-hour power reserve and a 28,800vph balance frequency.

Rolex Yacht-Master II Bracelet

At the present time, all of the various Rolex Yacht-Master II models are fitted with the three-link Oyster bracelet, as befits a true sports watch. On each version, the inner links have been given a high polish to match the gleaming case, while the outer links receive a satin finish to provide a contrast against the lugs.

As for material, the bracelet is crafted from the same metal as the watch head: stainless steel, yellow gold or white gold. With the Rolesor example, the innermost links are forged from Everose gold, leaving the outer side links in 904L stainless Oystersteel. Tying it all together is the Oysterlock folding clasp, equipped with the brand’s Easylink extension system that allows for approximately 5mm of tool-free bracelet adjustment, completely on the fly and without the use of any tools.

The Yacht-Master II was something of a retaliation from Rolex against decades-worth of naysayers criticizing the brand for the lack of complicated watches in its lineup. Rolex’s rebuttal, while not the most all-encompassing in terms of looks or utility, still stands as a hugely significant piece of technical dexterity. Rolex has always produced tool watches, but as the company continues to make the transition towards being a true luxury manufacturer, the tool watches it produces also take on a more luxurious nature and the Yacht-Master II perfectly embodies this. Large and uncompromising, it is perhaps the most eccentric model Rolex has to offer – and it is always happy to take center stage.

About Paul Altieri

Paul Altieri is a vintage and pre-owned Rolex specialist, entrepreneur, and the founder and CEO of BobsWatches.com. - the largest and most trusted name in luxury watches. He is widely considered a pioneer in the industry for bringing transparency and innovation to a once-considered stagnant industry. His experience spans over 35 years and he has been published in numerous publications including Forbes, The NY Times, WatchPro, and Fortune Magazine. Paul is committed to staying up-to-date with the latest research and developments in the watch industry and e-commerce, and regularly engages with other professionals in the industry. He is a member of the IWJG, the AWCI and a graduate of the GIA. Alongside running the premier retailer of pre-owned Rolex watches, Paul is a prominent Rolex watch collector himself amassing one of the largest private collections of rare timepieces. In an interview with the WSJ lifestyle/fashion editor Christina Binkley, Paul opened his vault to display his extensive collection of vintage Rolex Submariners and Daytonas. Paul Altieri is a trusted and recognized authority in the watch industry with a proven track record of expertise, professionalism, and commitment to excellence.

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The Watch Of The Open Seas: History Of The Rolex Yacht-Master

Instagram: @rolex

In the year 1992, Swiss watchmaker Rolex would debut a new model line at the Baselworld show that was strikingly similar to the already-popular Submariner. It featured the same 40mm Oyster case with a rotating bezel, the same chronometer-certified caliber, and the same Oyster bracelet.

Seemingly the only difference between the two was the white dial of that first Yacht-Master, a style which has never been an option on a Sub, and the inferior depth rating of 100m when compared to the Sub’s 300m.

Yet, the Yacht-Master was well-received upon launch, and with the passing of time, the yachting-inspired model has evolved and pioneered its own path within Rolex’s catalog.

Read on with us as we go back to the beginning and track the catalysts that paved the way for the most recent Yacht-Master release, the Yacht-Master 42 (226659), to become one of the hottest sports timepieces of the year.

History Of The Rolex Yacht-Master

We’ve broken down our overview of the Yacht-Master into the following segments:

• Release Of The Yacht-Master

The Submariner/Yacht-Master Theory

• Mid-Size & Ladies’ Yacht-Master
• Platinum (Rolesium) Yacht-Master

The Maxi Dial Yacht-Master

• Two-Tone Rolesor Yacht-Master

The Yacht-Master II

• Six-Digit Yacht-Master

The Oysterflex Yacht-Master

Keep scrolling to read this guide from its beginning, or use the links above to jump down to a specific point.

Browse Bob’s Watches Rolex Catalogue

The Release Of The Yacht-Master

The first Yacht-Master watch was launched in 1992 under reference number 16628. It featured a yellow gold case, a bidirectional graduated bezel, and a matching full-gold Oyster bracelet. Its dial was white with black hour indices, while at center were gold Mercedes hands, and beating inside was the 3135 movement.

Rolex ref. 16628. Instagram: @m_j_watches

Previous to the Yacht-Master’s introduction, Rolex had not released a new model line in a quarter century. So, why did they go with the Yacht-Master, a design that risked being a detractor from their existing Submariner? Let’s take a look at the inspiration.

The sport of yachting is one which demands precise timing and extreme coordination of the entire crew for optimal performance, particularly in offshore competitions.

Prototype Daytona Yacht-Master ref. 6239. Image: Christies.com

Rolex believed their waterproof and chronometer-grade timepieces to be more than qualified to handle the knocks of a regatta and keep ticking accurately. The brand is also notorious for their marketing prowess, which led them to act quickly in establishing an association with the sport.

Beginning in 1958 with their first sponsorship of a race, the relationship has endured until today, when the brand sponsors over a dozen international yachting events.

Nevertheless, it’s hard to deny that there exists a large gap between first contact in 1958 and the release of the yacht-inspired timepiece in the early ’90s. Why wasn’t the Yacht-Master released earlier on?

Well, Rolex played around with the idea of yachting chronograph early on, though it never materialized. All that’s left of these trials are an extremely limited number of Daytona ref. 6239 chronograph prototypes with a 39mm case (vs standard 36mm) and modified regatta dials.

Unfortunately, the Yacht-Master concept was scrapped and would not reappear until decades later.

When it did return, none of the previous Yacht-Master’s DNA was there. Furthermore, the 1992 Yacht-Master was bizarrely similar to the 16610 Sub of the time.

Interestingly enough, Rolex folklore tells of a time in the ’80s when the brand sought to update their Submariner . What resulted was less of an update and more of an overhaul, manifested as what we know now as the first Yacht-Master.

Apprehensive of the repercussions that making such aggressive design changes to their staple offering could bring, the brand chose instead to release the watch intended to be a new Submariner as the reborn Yacht-Master instead.

The move worked, and the new Yacht-Masters started flying off the shelves. The Yacht-Master was perceived as a more luxurious Sub, though its bidirectional bezel proved useful for on-the-fly countdowns which are critical in sailing competitions. The waterproof nature of the Oyster case further cemented the Yacht-Master as the ideal first mate.

Mid-Size & Ladies’ Yacht-Master

In 1994, just two years after the debut of the 16628, Rolex would introduce the same design but in smaller case sizes. These were:

• Ref. 68628: Yacht-Master “Mid-Size” in 35mm
• Ref. 69628: Yacht-Master Ladies’ in 29mm

This marked the first time that Rolex ever offered one of their sports models in a smaller case size; all previous instances of case size changes were increases as opposed to reductions. It has been speculated that the smaller cases were intended for the Asian market.

Yacht-Master ref. 16628. Instagram: @thewatchcentre

In the same year, Rolex also offered the same 16628 but this time with a deep blue dial. Blue dials tend to make for broadly-liked watches, and coupled with the gold case and bracelet, the new version was once again a hit.

The Platinum (Rolesium) Yacht-Master

The next update to the model line would come in 1999 with yet another home-run: the Rolesium Yacht-Master. The new watch featured a stainless steel case and bracelet with a platinum dial and platinum-insert bezel. Rolesium, a term registered by Rolex back in the ’30s for a combination of steel and platinum in a watch, was finally put to use.

The new platinum Yacht-Master ref. 16622 was not only more accessible than the previous all-gold varieties, it was also more versatile. This would lead the 16622 variety to become the face of the Yacht-Master line.

In fact, many online resources erroneously label it the first Yacht-Master ever; this should offer an idea of how emblematic it is in the watch industry.

The 16622 also presented a new dial and hand style that would mark Rolex as a whole through to the modern day. The new Yacht-Master boasted what is now recognized as the “maxi dial”.

Rolex Yacht-Master 16628 w/ maxi dial. Instagram: @kellokonttori

The maxi dial is characterized by oversized hour indices as well as larger hands at center. To the untrained eye, the difference may be difficult to spot, though experienced collectors will note the change instantly.

The maxi dial became the style of choice for all modern Rolex sports watches, though it got its start in the 1999 platinum Yacht-Master. A Submariner would first feature a maxi dial in 2003, with the release of the 50th anniversary Rolex Submariner “Kermit” (16610LV).

All versions of the Yacht-Master produced after the introduction of the maxi dial would also feature the new dial design. This included the blue, gold, and white dial versions from years past.

The Two-Tone (Rolesor) Yacht-Master

Six years after the Rolesium Yacht-Master came to be, Rolex would once more put on display their mixed-metal Rolesor style in the two-tone Yacht-Master 16623.

Yacht-Master ref. 16623. Instagram: @v.davidofftimepieces

The 2005 debuts possessed a 40mm steel case, a yellow gold bidirectional bezel, and a two-tone Oyster bracelet. As far as dials, many of the previous styles were also available like the black-on-white, though mother of pearl version were also introduced.

It was during Baselworld 2007 when Rolex would introduce the Yacht-Master’s younger and much larger sibling, the Yacht-Master II. Whereas the original Yacht-Master was very close functionally to the Sub, the Yacht-Master II was completely the opposite.

It can be said that the only overlap between the YM and the YMII is be the name, as the second iteration looks like a whole new watch. This time, though, it’s clear that the watch has been designed with the needs of yachting professionals in mind.

The first Yacht-Master II were marked by a 44mm Oyster case, an Oyster bracelet, a white dial,  and a blue Cerachrom (ceramic) Ring Command bezel. The first two references, 116688 and 116689, were made of yellow gold and white gold, respectively.

Powering the YMII was another innovation – Rolex’s in-house calibre 4161. It features the COSC-chronometer certification and 72-hour power reserve that are today’s standard, though they were industry-leading at the time. Most notable, though, was the 4161 movement’s functions.

The new caliber boasted a “ programmable countdown with mechanical memory and on-the-fly synchronization. ” Naturally, the programming of the movement required the use of the Ring Command bezel, a feature which had also never been encountered on a Rolex watch before.

In later years, Rolex would go on to release Rolesor and full-steel versions of the Yacht-Master II, both of which have been relatively successful. The Yacht-Master II has certainly earned a spot in the brand’s catalog, and is sure to stick around for next couple of decades.

The Six-Digit Yacht-Master

Yacht-Master 116622

Twenty years after it debuted as the 16628, the Yacht-Master would see in 2012 the modernization that had been sweeping Rolex’s other model families.

Aside from receiving a new six-digit reference number (116622), subtle aesthetic changes were also present, as was an outstanding new dial option – the Cobalt Blue dial.

The case was now a “super case”, which retained the 40mm diameter but was styled differently. The bezel was now completely platinum, where previous versions were made of steel with a platinum insert. The Oyster bracelet had likewise been upgraded.

A platinum bezel / platinum dial option was still part of the collection and therefore received the same upgrades. Unfortunately, this iconic “albino” look would be completely discontinued in 2017.

The subsequent and most recent significant change to the Yacht-Master family took place in 2015, when Rolex first introduced the Everose Yacht-Master 40 ref. 116655.

Rolex Everose Yacht-Master on Oysterflex bracelet

The newest iteration of the YM possessed some new features. The case was made of Everose, and the bezel now boasted a black Cerachrom insert. Securing the watch to the wrist was another Rolex first – the Oysterflex rubber ‘bracelet’.

Before the 116655, no Rolex watch had ever sported a rubber band. The brand still refers to it as a bracelet given the metal elements within the band, but these are not obvious even with the watch in the hand.

This same style of Yacht-Master would receive the next update in 2019, when Rolex introduced the Yacht-Master 42 in white gold.

What’s Next?

With the recent changes that the Yacht-Master line has had, it is clear that Rolex intends to keep this model family alive and well for years to come. Consumers are likewise responding to each new release, offering plenty of feedback with their pocketbooks.

If you’d like to read up on any of Rolex’s other model families, make sure to check out some of our extensive watch guides below:

• History Of The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona
• Overview Of The Most Luxurious Pilot’s Watch: The GMT-Master
• How Did The Day-Date Become The President’s Watch?
• Review Of Rolex’s Longest Running Watch Model
• Rolex Watches That Could Become The Investment Of A Lifetime

"I have always been a fan of the Yacht-Master, but I had no idea that it didn't exist until the 1990s. Thanks for the information, and thanks for keeping it entertaining. Well done!"

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Thursday, April 25, 2024

• Rolex Discontinues The Yacht-Master II

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Rolex Yacht-Master II White Dial Men's Luxury Watch 116680-0001

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The Golden Age of Rolex Movements Part II: Rolex gets Complicated with Innovations and Patent Registrations

by  Tim Mosso

From the public’s perspective, Rolex’s surge into its movement revolution began with the now anachronistic-sounding Basel 2000 World Watch, Clock, and Jewelry Show. But the evidence of a long-term engineering campaign was mounting at the patent office and in the dealers’ showrooms.

Consider the 2005 Cellini Prince, highlighted previously in The Golden Age Of Rolex Movements Part I: Sowing The Seeds Of Greatness .

Rolex made the Cellini Prince an early recipient of the Paraflex shock system, a tangible sign of Rolex’s progress internalizing the movement production of all components. Achieving proprietary shock protection is an extraordinary feat; only massive firms such as the Swatch Group and Seiko Epson or single-purpose suppliers such as KIF Parechoc produce these subassemblies.

Rolex Cellini Prince Caliber 7040 (photo courtesy WatchBox)

Meanwhile, at the patent office . . .

Components such as shock springs are as significant to the Rolex watchmaking revolution as the rock-star movements themselves. And Rolex often telegraphs its next moves – and movements – with patent applications.

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For example, trace the Rolex patent breadcrumb trail to a June 1998 application for U.S. patent number 5881026, “A self-compensating spring for a balance-spring . . . made of a paramagnetic Nb-Zr alloy containing between 5% and 25% by weight of Zr.”

Just like that, Rolex dropped the Parachrom alloy for its future nonmagnetic hairsprings.

U.S. patent number 6329066 requested in March 2000 specified “a self-compensating spring for a balance-wheel oscillator . . . and process for treating this spiral . . . the oxide layer which forms has a thickness of the order of 50 nm, giving the spiral a blue color.” As in this fashion, the current Parachrom Blue hairspring was born.

Fitting a Rolex balance wheel and Parachrom Blue hairspring to a movement

Rolex [Yacht] masters high complications

Look back even farther, and one begins to grasp just how long certain ideas gestate inside the Rolex fortress.

In January of 1989, Rolex filed for U.S. patent number 4866684 to protect its concept of a “Chronometer for starting races, particularly regattas.” Details of the application text include mention of a dedicated ten-minute countdown scale.

Granted, this project also included mention of an electronic drive system, but the bug had been planted: Rolex was thinking about a dedicated regatta chronograph three years before the first time-only Yacht-Master broke at the 1992 Basel Fair.

Look back even farther, and it becomes evident that Rolex prototyped a Yacht-Master chronograph during the late 1960s.

A 2007 Rolex Yacht-Master II in precious metal (photo courtesy WatchBox)

Baselworld 2007 witnessed the end of this extraordinary incubation cycle in the form of the Yacht-Master II. At the time, the watch was the most complex Rolex product ever sold. Caliber 4160 comes on strong: the Daytona’s 70-hour reserve, ball-bearing rotor, vertical clutch, column wheel, and robust architecture carry over from the 4130 movement.

To this functional core, Rolex added a programmable countdown system with a memory capability that resets to its specified interval without fail until reprogrammed. The Yacht-Master II is designed to act as a flyback and fly-forward chronograph to center on the nearest minute when actuated.

Finally, all programming is performed with a “Ring Command” bezel that doubles as part of the movement itself.

Rolex Caliber 4161

For the first time, Rolex began to offer public insights into advanced industrial procedures used in the fabrication of its movements. Contemporary press dispatches from Geneva boasted of employing the micro-manufacturing technique “Lithographie, Galvanoformung, Abformung” – better known as LIGA profiling, which sees nickel-phosphorus components “grown” on a substrate for perfect geometry – for the most sensitive and tolerance-intensive mechanical components.

Considering how niche the regatta timer function was in 2007 and remains today, the level of engineering investment was stunning. But the new movement wasn’t perfect.

Caliber 4130 was more sensitive to maintenance intervals and more susceptible to rough handling than previous Rolex movements. Reset action and the flyback/fly-forward function often developed lag or stalled entirely, and given the quantum leap of complexity for Rolex calibers this wasn’t shocking.

A 2013 stainless steel Rolex Yacht-Master II (photo courtesy WatchBox)

A reboot of sorts occurred in 2013 with the arrival of the long-awaited stainless steel Yacht-Master II. The undercard of this marquee launch was the revised Caliber 4161. More robust and more consistent, the 4161 brought the Yacht-Master II on par with the Daytona’s reliability and crisp pusher feel.

Rolex Sky-Dweller: the sky is the limit

But 2013’s detail revisions to Caliber 4161 barely registered amid the aftershocks of Rolex’s 2012 engineering quantum leap, the Sky-Dweller annual calendar GMT. Even with eight years’ worth of hindsight, the Sky-Dweller remains perhaps the least expected and most ambitious Rolex engineering project of the twenty-first century.

A 2012 Rolex Sky-Dweller in gold (photo courtesy WatchBox)

While stunning, the arrival of the Sky-Dweller could have been anticipated via diligent reading of Rolex’s U.S. patent applications. As far back as 2003, U.S. patent number 6744696 described an annual calendar system based solely on wheels and pared down to the minimum necessary parts count.

The elegant system was described as a solution for a “clock,” but a quick review of Rolex’s sparse modern clock portfolio suggests that this was little more than a smokescreen.

More insight arrived in April 2005 via U.S. patent number 7242640. The original statement of intent to develop an annual calendar moved into the product-engineering phase. No longer posing any pretense of clockmaking, the 2005 patent application specified the following:

“An annual date mechanism for a timepiece movement comprising a 31-toothed date runner, a jumper in mesh with its toothset, a months satellite . . . designed for twelve for the months comprising less than 31 days, a fixed planetary toothset coaxial with the date runner and in a direct-drive relationship with the months satellite.”

Rolex Sky-Dweller (photo courtesy WatchBox)

Another piece of the Rolex roadmap appeared in June 2011, less than a year before the launch of the Sky-Dweller, when Rolex filed U.S. patent number 8328414 for a bezel-based function selector by which “the function and/or indication which is to be adjusted is selected using a rotating bezel. Because of this the number of functions and/or indications which are to be adjusted can be high, as the bezel can rotate through 360 degrees.

Rolex Sky-Dweller Ring Command Bezel

“Advantageously, the setting control comprises a two-position stem, one position of which is a winding position and the second position of which is an adjustment position. Thus, a single two-position stem can be used to adjust a number of functions and/or time indications which is substantially greater than its single adjustment position.”

The Ring Command bezel is easy to use on the Rolex Sky-Dweller

In hindsight, Rolex was trying to protect itself ahead of a major product launch, but rarely have Rolex patents so explicitly and thoroughly previewed the consumer product to follow.

And what a product. The Sky-Dweller’s Caliber 9001 is a monster comprising the most individual parts of any Rolex movement past or present.

With 380 components, the 9001 narrowly eclipses the regatta chronograph, and the simplicity of the Ring Command bezel interface cloaks the fearsome mass of moving parts within; the bezel system alone accounts for 60 parts.

Perhaps chastened by growing pains with the Caliber 4160 regatta timer, Rolex seems to have taken great pains to ensure the mammoth Caliber 9001 lived up to Rolex levels of toughness.

Rolex Caliber 9001

The Rolex annual calendar system, dubbed “Saros” after celestial phenomena, can be set bidirectionally without damaging the movement. As with the Ludwig Oechslin annual calendars designed for the MIH watch , Zenith and Ochs und Junior, the Rolex system is designed and constructed with usability and reliability in mind.

Peripheral features include a 70-hour power reserve, winding-rotor bearings, a niobium-zirconium oxidized non-magnetic hairspring, and a free-sprung balance with a full bridge.

To put the complexity of Rolex Caliber 9001 in perspective, consider that Audemars Piguet’s modular chronograph in the Royal Oak Offshore (3126/3840) includes 365 parts and the Patek Philippe 5370P’s split-second chronograph Caliber CH29-535PS includes 312 parts, both exceptional haute horlogerie movements.

Rolex Sky-Dweller Reference 326934 in white gold and stainless steel (Rolesor) launched in 2017

Moreover, Rolex democratized the Sky-Dweller in 2017 with a – mostly – stainless steel model priced at less than one-third of the original $48,850.

For those who love movements but are reluctant to pay a precious-metal premium, Rolex prices the $14,400 Sky-Dweller 326934 within shouting distance of the $12,400 Daytona.

Rolex: the brand comes first, model families second, movements third

Although new models steal headlines, and no watch brand self-promotes with the gusto and grandeur of Rolex, the segment juggernaut tends to steer buyer attention away from movement engineering.

Despite the arrival of two monstrous complications in the space of five years, Rolex refused to redefine itself as a company or a brand. Ongoing innovations occurred as a sub-text to celebrity ambassadors, event sponsorship, and mainstream media campaigns.

The tension between Rolex’s movement innovations and branding exercises contribute, in part, to blame for watch collectors’ tendency to overlook Rolex watchmaking.

Part III of this series will explore the primacy of branding at Rolex and its impact on the company’s public reputation for movement innovation.

For more information, please visit www.rolex.com/watches/yacht-master and/or www.rolex.com/watches/sky-dweller .

Quick Facts Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master II Reference 116680 Case: 44 x 13.9 mm, stainless steel Movement: automatic Caliber 4161, 70-hour power reserve, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, officially certified C.O.S.C. chronometer Functions: hours; minutes; hacking seconds; programmable regatta countdown timer with memory in 0-10 minute range; flyback chronograph Production: This model went out of production in 2024 and has been updated with new models Price: $18,750 in steel; steel/gold and full precious metal available at varying prices

Quick Facts Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller Case: 42 x 14 mm, stainless steel with white gold Ring Command bezel Movement: automatic Caliber 9001, 70-hour power reserve, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, , Parachrom hairspring, Paraflex shock absorption, Superlative Chronometer certification (C.O.S.C. and Rolex certification after casing) Functions: hours, minutes, hacking seconds; second time zone, annual calendar with date and month Price: $15,500 (silver, blue, or black dials); full precious metal optional at varying prices

*   Tim Mosso  is the media director and watch specialist at  The 1916 Company . You can check out their very comprehensive YouTube channel at  www.youtube.com/@the1916company

* This article was first published 15 April 2019 at The Golden Age Of Rolex Movements Part II: Rolex Gets Complicated With Innovations And Patent Registrations

You may also enjoy:

The Golden Age Of Rolex Movements Part I: Sowing The Seeds Of Greatness 

Rolex Milgauss Review – The Most Underrated Rolex?

Exceptional Movements In History: Rolex Caliber 1575, The Watchmaker’s Watch

Rolex Case Study: How Many Watches and How Much Money Does Rolex Make?

Rolex Submariner vs. GMT Master II: Small Differences, Difficult Decision

Read it as if it was an Edgar Allan Poe story. Very compelling and full of intrigue. Bravo

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• History of Rolex
• Iconic Rolex Models
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The Complete Guide to Rolex Watch Collecting

N o watch brand has shaped contemporary watchmaking and collecting culture more than Rolex . In a little over a century, those five letters have become synonymous with top-tier Swiss mechanical watchmaking the world over, transcending circles of watch-loving connoisseurs and seeping into contemporary culture at every level. A historic emphasis on quality, craftsmanship and design has made the luxury watchmaker into the world’s most popular, boasting extensive waiting lists for Rolex Submariners , Datejusts , Daytonas and all their most popular models – unless, of course, you buy your Rolex watch on the secondary market. Sotheby’s is on hand to help, with a team of global specialists handpicking a wide range of Rolex watches for sale at auction around the world, as well as through our extensive online marketplace .

So it should come as no surprise that watches from every era of Rolex watch history, from the earliest days of the 20th century through to this year’s hottest releases, are highly collectible, inspire endless scholarship and push enthusiasts to the very limits of what watch collecting can be. A little bit of history, an overview of the brand’s most important creations and a few collector tips from Sotheby’s are all it takes to confidently jump into the fray yourself.

The History of Rolex and the Invention of Modern Swiss Watchmaking

The history of Rolex starts in 1905, when 24-year-old Hans Wilsdorf founded a watch distribution company in London. Pocket watches were still the order of the day, but Wilsdorf saw the writing on the wall and became an early advocate for and seller of wrist watches. A few years later he came up with the name “Rolex” on a morning carriage ride – as the legend goes – and soon Rolex was making some of the earliest wristwatches to be observatory-certified chronometers, among the strictest accuracy standards of the time.

Wilsdorf’s firm would go on to pioneer a number of innovations whose impact on 20th-century watchmaking cannot be overstated. In 1926, Rolex unveiled the Oyster case, with its screw-down crown and unmatched water resistance. In 1931, the Perpetual automatic winding system was introduced, alleviating the need to manually wind those watches. In 1945, the Rolex Datejust revolutionized the use of a date display in a wristwatch meant for everyday wear. And this is just the beginning.

The 1950s through the ’70s are considered by many collectors to be the original golden age of Rolex watchmaking. It was during this period that genuine icons like the Rolex Submariner (released 1953), Rolex GMT-Master (1954), Rolex Explorer (1963) and Rolex Daytona (1963) were all introduced to the market. These are now considered the bread-and-butter of Rolex watch collecting, no matter what era of watches you’re talking about. Quirkier models like the Rolex Milgauss (1956) and Rolex Explorer II (1971) were also released, and though it took longer for them to find their audiences, they now have die-hard fans of their own.

As watchmaking continued to improve in the 1980s and the ’90s, particularly with regards to the use of materials and computer-aided design and production, evolutions of these watches emerged. The so-called five-digit references – like the reference 16710 Rolex GMT-Master II, the reference 16610 and 14060 Rolex Submariners and reference 16520 Rolex Daytona – introduced new movements, nonradioactive luminous material for dials, sapphire crystals and more. These are, in some ways, the first truly modern Rolex watches, and over the last few years they have become every bit as collectible as their older cousins.

“The stories that these watches hold is the source of endless inspiration,” says Vincent Brasesco, VP, Director of Digital Strategy and Specialist in Sotheby’s watch department . “There was an incredible ad Rolex ran years ago, saying, ‘It doesn’t just tell time. It tells history.’ That really sums it up. What other watch has been worn by astronauts, athletes, explorers and icons of the big screen alike? You and I will most likely never salvage a shipwreck, but we can own the watch that did. That’s the magic.”

The Most Iconic Rolex Watch Models

Rolex makes some of the most iconic watches known to man, and each comes in dozens – if not hundreds – of variations. Here are just a few of the more popular Rolex watch models you’re likely to come across.

Rolex Submariner

Most instantly recognizable is the Rolex Submariner , or Sub. In many ways, this watch has served as the archetype for the entire category of dive watches, past and present. A tool watch designed for underwater use by military and recreational divers, the Rolex Submariner features highly legible hands and lume plots, accompanied by a rotating timing bezel. Black remains the most popular Rolex Submariner color, but a number of colored dials and bezels have emerged over the years, including green (Kermit, Starbucks, Hulk) and blue (Bluesy, Smurf). This distinction also points to another important tradition for any Rolex watch buyer to be aware of – namely the use of nicknames to identify their favorite models .

Less than a decade after the model was introduced, Sean Connery’s personal Rolex Submariner appeared on the wrist of James Bond in 1962’s Dr. No , cementing its place in the pantheon of popular culture. Early examples, such as the reference 6538 Rolex Submariner sported by 007 (nicknamed the Rolex Big Crown by aficionados), are highly collectible and can fetch huge prices on the market. But part of the Rolex Submariner’s enduring appeal is that every version, from these “holy grail” pieces through the currently available reference 124060 , carries the same spirit. There’s truly a Rolex Submariner for every collection.

Holy Grails: Early Rolex Submariners, such as references 6538 and 6200 , feature larger winding crowns and slightly bolder designs, hence their Big Crown and King Sub nicknames, respectively.

Modern Classics: For those looking for a perfect middle ground between a vintage and modern Rolex Sub, a neovintage piece like the reference 16610 offers old-school design with contemporary materials and build quality.

Next Generation: The current no-date Rolex Submariner, reference 124060 , has new case dimensions, a cutting-edge movement and a miles-long waitlist at retailers, making it instantly collectible and highly desirable at auction.

Rolex GMT-Master

Descending a bit deeper into the collecting rabbit hole, one finds the Rolex GMT , with its colorful 24-hour bezel for tracking another time zone. (The blue and red bezel earned the original its nickname , Pepsi, but you’ll also find the Coke, Sprite, Root Beer and some non-soda-themed options, like the Batman and Batgirl.) As you move across the sky, you simply twist the bezel to line up the correct hour with the 24-hour hand, and you’ll be ready before wheels-down. This GMT (or Greenwich Mean Time) complication is a Rolex watch invention created for Pan American World Airways, whose pilots needed a time-keeping tool for long-haul flights. These watches were present on some of the earliest transcontinental Pan Am flights, including the historic first flight from New York to Moscow in 1968, and are every bit as emblematic of the jet age as New York City’s TWA Terminal and the Concorde itself.

Holy Grails: The first Rolex GMT was the reference 6542 , which featured a blue and red Bakelite bezel insert for the 24-hour scale. Because these are slightly radioactive, they were swapped for aluminum bezel inserts during service, making originals extremely rare.

Modern Classics: The reference 16760 introduced the Rolex GMT-Master II, which added a jumping hour hand that lets the wearer more easily track a third timezone (one via the main hour hand, one via the adjustable 24-hour hand and one via the bezel).

Next Generation: The Rolex Batman (reference 116710BLNR) is one of the most desirable modern Rolex GMT models, with its black and blue bezel, and either Oyster or Jubilee bracelet.

Rolex Day-Date

The Rolex Day-Date (or Day Date as commonly spelt) is a different sort of Rolex watch, a bit more dressed-up and buttoned-down, but no less sturdily crafted. It’s hard to believe that when it was introduced in 1956 this was the very first watch to show the date along with a fully spelled out day of the week, but it’s yet another world first Rolex can add to its very long list.

There are countless Rolex Day Date variations available, in all manner of steel, gold and platinum combinations, with myriad dial options. Any Day Date within a collection is therefore immensely expressive and personal. And the number of world leaders, movie stars and athletes who have sported them over the years is too high to imagine. There’s a reason its nickname is the President – a yellow-gold Rolex Day Date has famously graced the wrists of presidents from Lyndon B. Johnson and Richard Nixon to Ronald Reagan and Bill Clinton, along with those of countless other global political leaders.

Holy Grails: Because there are so many variants of the Rolex Day Date, the most collectible pieces are those with provenance, whether that’s in the form of a special-order dial (like those with the Khanjar on them) or a famous original owner . Quality and uniqueness are king.

Modern Classics: From the 1970s through the mid-90s, Rolex produced small batches of Day Date watches with brightly colored enamel dials. These Stella Dial watches are a collecting niche all their own.

Next Generation: While traditionally a 36mm-diameter watch, the Rolex Day Date is now available in a larger 40mm size, and Rolex has been creating lots of interesting dial variants at this scale that will surely become collector favorites as they age.

Rolex Daytona

But the king of Rolex collecting is undoubtedly the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona , first introduced in 1963 and now known as just the Daytona. A chronograph with three subdials and a tachymeter on the bezel, the Rolex Daytona was designed for race car drivers (it’s named after the 24 Hours of Daytona race in Florida) and today represents the pinnacle of Rolex sport watches. Today the Rolex Daytona is perhaps the most sought-after luxury sports watch globally. This is particularly true for the white-dialed Rolex Daytona Panda , easily one of the most recognizable watches in the world.

Collectors enjoy obsessing over the tiniest details, with a subtle change in a dial font or a hallmark on the case back sometimes being the difference between a relatively common watch and a once-in-a-lifetime find.

For many collectors, the pinnacle of the model is the Rolex Paul Newman Daytona, defined by its exotic dial with small squares on the sub-dials and so-named because of the configuration famously worn by the actor and philanthropist himself. It is the perfect coming together of watch collecting and popular culture.

Holy Grails: An immensely desirable yellow-gold, Rolex Daytona Paul Newman “John Player Special” ( reference 6241 ) holds the special distinction of being the most expensive Rolex watch ever sold at auction by Sotheby’s.

Modern Classics: In 1988, Rolex introduced the references 16520 , 16523 and 16528 Rolex Daytonas, all of which utilized modified Zenith El Primero chronograph movements (a first for Rolex). These movements would remain in use until circa 2000 and the watches can be spotted by their five-digit reference numbers beginning with 165XX.

Next Generation: The reference 126529LN Le Mans Daytona was created to celebrate the 24 Hours of Le Mans auto race. It is white gold, the dial pays homage to the Rolex Paul Newman dials of old and it was produced for just one year, from 2023-24. This all combines to make it the most collectible modern Rolex Daytona.

And this all barely scratches the surface of what Rolex offers contemporary collectors from its nearly 120-year history. See, for example, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual , which despite its classic styling is perhaps Rolex’s most playful line – it features cheerful colors (such as the yellow dial, no longer in production) and whimsical dials. From the also-iconic DRolex Datejust to lesser-known models like the Rolex Yacht-Master and the Rolex Sky-Dweller , there is always something more to explore.

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Yearning for an Oysterflex but Rolex hasn’t granted your wishes yet? There are plenty of others to choose from

Since the 2015 release of the Oysterflex, Rolex fans have yearned for the Crown to put their favourite pieces on the new rubber bracelet. For reasons only known to Rolex, it limits the watches that the supple strap is allowed to be fitted to from the factory, such as precious metal Daytonas and Yacht-Masters, leaving the rest of the range somewhat bereft of options. That’s not to say the bracelets on Explorers, Submariners, GMT Masters, etc, aren’t great; they’re some of the best on the market. However, if you would prefer your Rolex on rubber , your factory options are limited. That is unless you start to explore aftermarket options. Arguably, watches like the underwater-themed Submariner is crying out to be hooked up to a rubber strap, so until Rolex agrees, what options are out there for you?

Delugs is a brand made and run by watch enthusiasts for watch enthusiasts. Prior to focusing on watch straps, Delugs was exclusively a leathercraft brand, crafting and experimenting with handmade bags, pouches, wallets, and belts. The brand’s love of watches meant that of course, they were making straps for themselves and their friends, which quickly developed into an opportunity to branch out professionally into the watch scene in 2018.

In 2022, Delugs released its own range of rubber straps, some of which are specific for Rolex, however many of its other rubber straps will fit any Rolex given the lug width is correct. The colour options are diverse but curated, and not quite as in-your-face as other brands’ offerings. Delugs also offer its own clean looking folding clasp, which includes the CTS (cut-to-size) fitment , allowing for each strap to be perfectly sized to your wrist simply by being cut down to whatever size you need. This does limit adjustability on hotter days, so be aware of that. Explore fabric and leather Delugs options in the T+T Shop, with prices starting from US$30

Tropic Straps

Given how rubber straps have hugely taken off over the last ten years or so, you’d be forgiven that it was a modern phenomenon, but there’s one brand that has been pushing the benefits of vulcanised rubber for decades. Tropic is the rubber strap company, producing straps since the 1960s, and is probably one of the most famous of all. While they’re not specifically designed only to fit Rolex, they can fit anything with a 20mm or 22mm lug width.

Tropic straps use a specific vulcanised rubber which is hypoallergenic, optimised for tensile strength, offers UV resistance, and is largely immune to adverse effects from extreme heat or cold. Perhaps that’s why Marlon Brando chose to use one on his iconic GMT Master , worn in his 1979 war epic Apocalypse Now – or perhaps it was the lovely tinge of vanilla scent. If it was good enough for Colonel Kurtz, then it’s good enough for the Time+Tide Shop. Price: starting from US$100

A brand that’s has been around for about ten years is Miami-based Horus. Founded by Mark Margulies as a side business while at college, the brand has since gone multinational, with 120 authorised retailers around the globe. While Horus offers straps for a multitude of other brands, the Rolex lineup is impressive, catering to pretty much every model in the catalogue.

It also offers direct Oysterflex replacements, and offer either Rolex clasp fitment or Horus pin buckles. Part of the success comes from their approach to customisability, with a multitude of colours and patterns to choose from. In fact, there’s around 40 different choices per model, so if customisation is your bag, Horus is definitely worth checking out. Price: starting from US$129

Everest is one of the leading aftermarket rubber strap brands out there. With over a decade of experience in the field, it has meticulously improved its straps over time to perfect fit, function, and comfort. It offers a wide range of straps to specifically fit certain models, and this is the important part because, unlike many others, each strap type is moulded to the case design. The lug ends of the straps are curved in such a way as to fit inside the lugs properly, following the contours of each case.

On top of this, there are specific strap types to be able to use the clasp from your Rolex, or you can opt for a pin buckle variation. Everest is a slightly more premium option when it comes to rubber, however the straps offer extremely high levels of quality and comfort, which is just what you need. One limitation is that there are only a handful of colours on offer, so if you love to really push the boat out with customisation, you may want to dig a little deeper. Price: starting from US$220

Switzerland-based strap brand Rubber B is the only alternative rubber strap brand to feature the words “Swiss Made” on its straps. 100% made in their factory in the foothills of the Alps, it takes their description of “the ultimate rubber strap” very seriously. The design is meticulously detailed to ensure that the straps do not move around inside the lugs, hugging the case nicely, and the vulcanised rubber is infused with carbon fibre during the injection moulding process to increase strength and stress resistance, all while remaining supple, comfortable, and light.

As a result, they are on the more expensive side, but as a premium brand, Rubber B offers a huge choice of Rolex-specific fitments, from Submariners to Air Kings, there’s one for everyone. Also, there are a few different colour choices, but the brand also offers a wider choice of strap designs and clasps, such as Rolex clasp fitment to velcro or tang buckles. Price: starting from US$220

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GMT-Master II

Witnesses to history

Exceptional timepieces

The GMT-Master and GMT-Master II owe their iconic status as much to their technical and design qualities as to the feats of the adventurers who have played a part in their story. Certain GMT-Master watches worn by remarkable individuals have witnessed history in the making. Over the years, Rolex has safeguarded this heritage by conserving some of these exceptional timepieces.

New-York – Moscow flight

From the White House to Red Square

Four years after its launch, the GMT-Master took part in an event that reinforced its image as a watch to connect people: the first non-stop flight by Pan Am between New York and Moscow. Not only was this historic occasion a technical exploit, it was also hugely symbolic. At the height of the Cold War, in July 1959, the plane was carrying journalists to the USSR to report on US Vice President Richard Nixon’s visit to the Soviet Union. At the controls of the Boeing 707 making this pioneering intercontinental journey was Captain C. N. Warren, who used his GMT-Master as a navigation aid. He stated that “the flight itself was navigated by Rolex.”

Pegasus Overland

A voyage of cultural discovery

In 1959, eight men from a British army regiment embarked on a round-the-world expedition named Pegasus Overland, which Rolex supported by equipping each team member with a GMT-Master. Driving two off-road vehicles, they travelled through Europe, Asia, Oceania and Africa, crossing some 34 countries. During the 51-week journey, they captured every moment on film. Their footage gives a unique glimpse of life around the globe in the late 1950s, showing the fashions, cultures, architectures and landscapes of the time.

The X-15 rocket plane

All-time record

From 1959 to 1968, NASA and the US Air Force developed the X-15 hypersonic flight research programme. The rocket-powered experimental aircraft were designed to test pilots’ ability to withstand the effects of extreme velocity and suborbital flight. The extensive data collected from measuring accelerations, pressures, shocks, vibrations, temperatures and other aspects of aerodynamic friction and atmospheric re-entry techniques led to major advances in aerospace research. Among the dozen or so pilots involved, William J. Knight was particularly outstanding. On 3 October 1967, over the Mojave Desert in California, wearing a GMT-Master, he attained a speed of 7,274 km/h (4,520 mph, or Mach 6.7), setting a record that stands to this day.

Apollo XIII

The heart of the space conquest

On 11 April 1970, the Apollo 13 mission left Earth on a voyage that was to be the third American moon landing attempt. Command module pilot Jack Swigert took with him a watch dear to his heart: a GMT-Master, which he wore throughout the mission, like a good-luck charm. Three days after lift-off, a technical fault caused an explosion in the spacecraft’s second oxygen tank. Launched on their lunar trajectory, the three astronauts had no choice but to continue on that course and loop around the Moon in their attempt to return to Earth. Swigert had to correct the trajectory four times. He saved the mission from tragedy by preventing the craft from ricocheting off the Earth’s atmosphere on re-entry. On 17 April, the capsule splashed down in the Pacific Ocean between New Zealand and Fiji, its crew safe and sound.

Apollo XVII

The final mission

On 7 December 1972, the Saturn V rocket launched from Cape Canaveral for the final Apollo lunar mission. Its destination: the highlands bordering the Sea of Serenity. One of the crew, Captain Ronald Evans, was wearing his GMT-Master. As the pilot of the command module, he remained in orbit while his fellow crew members landed on the Moon’s surface. On 14 December, the lunar module redocked with the Apollo 17 spacecraft to begin its long journey home. On 17 December, Evans conducted a spacewalk of over an hour. Two days later, the three astronauts were recovered following splashdown in the Pacific Ocean, closing the final chapter in the Apollo mission story.

The realms of the GMT-Master

Aeronautics

Conquering the skies

Astronautics

Rockets and time zones

From sky to screen.

Adventurers

On the wrists of extreme travellers