Sustained
The Foundation tested 11 six inch cleats made of nylon, aluminum, marinium (a magnesium-aluminum- titanium-beryllium alloy), chrome-plated zinc, bronze, stainless steel, and Zamac (a high-grade die-cast zinc alloy). Five of the cleats were two-hole; six were four-hole. The cleats were mounted on a 3/8- 6 inch thick steel plate in a tensile test machine. Admittedly, the steel plate is not the same as a deck mounting on a boat, but it prevents the fasteners from pulling out, and it eliminates different boat decking materials as a variable, so that only the cleat itself is being tested. To ensure uniformity, the cleats were mounted to the steel plate using manufacturer recommended sizes of flathead stainless steel bolts, nuts and washers, all tightened to precisely the same torque. The tensile strength of the bolts was also tested; they fell consistently within the manufacturer-listed range of 80,000 psi ( +/-10%).
Using a 3/8-inch diameter plastic- coated steel cable around each cleat, we pulled at four angles, as shown in the diagram below. (Plastic- coated cable was used to ensure that the cause of a failure would not be the rope or a weak point caused by wire abrading the cleat.) The first three pulls were parallel to the base, at 0°, 45° and 90° relative to the cleat's axis. The fourth pull was an upward 45°/45° pull, with the cable around both legs, pulling at 45° vertical and 45° forward.
The test was conducted under strictly controlled laboratory conditions. We suspect, however, that different tests might produce slightly different results, because the failure figures in each pull are dependent on so many variables.
For example, the seating of the fasteners relative to the exact center of the holes in the feet has a direct effect on load distribution and consequently the amount of stress placed on any given part of the cleat. Similarly, using a larger size line may produce different results, because larger line exerts more force on the bottom of the horn and less on the top of the leg. It is reassuring, however, that the results of this test coincide in most respects with those of a similar cleat test conducted by a manufacturer several years ago.
The cleat assemblies withstood simple tension loads of between 1,190 and 7,500 lbs. before a failure occurred. The lower figure is roughly equivalent to the load a 40-ft. boat exerts on its working anchor under normal conditions. The cleat assemblies failed in one of four ways: fasteners, feet, legs, or the body of the cleat. The vast majority of failures, (57%) were fastener failures. Feet failure, exclusive to four-hole cleats, and to zinc and aluminum cleats in particular, was second at 23%. Bodies failed 14% of the time, and legs failed only 9%.
Fastener failures occurred with equal frequency at all three angles of pull parallel to the base (0°, 45° and 90°). By contrast, at the 45°/45° vertical angle pull, fastener failures accounted for less than half; the body of the cleat or its feet were more likely to fail first when pulled forward and up. However, in general the cleats withstood greater loads at this 45° upward pull than under straight pulls (the only two exceptions were the stainless steel cleat and the marinium cleat). Because fastener failure predominated, it may be inaccurate to assess cleat strength based solely on the loads applied. When the four loads each assembly withstood before failure are averaged, the stainless steel cleat assembly withstood the greatest loads, followed by the four-hole hollow marinium cleat. Not surprisingly, the nylon cleat ranked last, but it was stronger than we expected — it took a respectable 2,380 lbs. at 45° to cause the body to fail.
The test revealed that cleat design is at least as important as cleat material in affecting what breaks, and at what loads. Four-hole cleats were more likely to suffer failure of the feet, legs or body, while two-hole cleats suffered fastener failures 19 out of 20 times. We believe this is because the bolts in two-hole cleats are fastened directly through the center of the cleat, adding strength to the entire assembly. It seems the load applied perpendicular to the axis of the bolts in two-hole cleats causes the fasteners to shear off at the base.
With four-hole cleats, feet failed 10 times in 24 pulls (42%). The feet failed consistently on half the four hole cleats, and they failed under smaller loads than every other cleat except the nylon. Of these three four hole cleats with consistent foot failures, one was aluminum, one zinc and one Zamac. Since these three metals have identical tensile strengths and held their own in the two-hole category, there had to be another explanation. We found the answer in foot surface area: the three cleats with consistently failing feet had the three smallest foot surface areas of the six four-hole cleats we tested.
We took a closer look at the effect of foot surface area by comparing the very similar aluminum and marini urn four hole cleats (see · cleats F and G at right). The feet on the aluminum-a big, beefy cleat failed on all four pulls. The marinium cleat had no feet failures. It had twice the foot surface area of the aluminum cleat (0.13 inches 2 vs. 0.07 inches 2 ), and withstood more than twice the load of the aluminum cleat.So, we deduced, the design of the feet , particularly their surface area, is critical. Ironically, the weak-footed aluminum cleat was the most expensive of the 11 cleats we tested.
Although stainless steel has the greatest tensile strength of a ll the cleat materials we tested (double the tensile strength of aluminum, zinc, Zamac and marinium), it is nowhere near the most expensive cleat material, nor does it necessarily produce the strongest cleat in a given application. This is because, as mentioned earlier, a cleat is only one part of a system, and that system is only as strong as its weakest link.
Line is another part of the system. Generally, manufacturers recommend just slightly under one inch of cleat for every 1/16-inch of line diameter , which means you need a six-inch cleat for 3/8-inch line, an eight-inch cleat for 1/2-inch line, and a 10-inch cleat for 5/8-inch line. Using larger cleats for larger lines adds both weight and expense, but what would be the point of using 3/8-inch nylon line, with a breaking strength ocleat you attach it to can't withstand the same or greater load?
Chafe plays a vital role in the security of any cleat system. You can reduce chafe by using larger cleats, or cleats with smooth, round legs and no sharp angles, since the strength of a line is reduced by bending fatigue when it has to turn sharp corners or make tight bends. Mount your chocks as close to the cleats as possible, and avoid changing the direction of the rope along its path through the chock to the cleat.
As a rule, you should buy the largest size cleat your pocketbook and the deck space can handle. Choose one made of a high tensile strength material, like stainless steel , bronze, aluminum or marinium. Examine the feet to make sure they are large relative to the size of the cleat, sturdy, and have an ample thickness of metal around the fastener holes.
Marinium usually costs slightly more than aluminum. Both metals have the same tensile strength, but marinium has a higher strength-to-weight ratio. The marinium cleat held up better in our tests, performing almost as well as the stainless. Zinc and nylon have the least tensile strength, and are the least expensive. But with zinc, as with aluminum and marinium, be aware of the potential for galvanic corrosion if you use fasteners of dissimilar metals (like stainless) in a saltwater environment. Nylon or plastic cleats are fine for small boat rigging, flags and other low-load applications, but for moorings, docking, and ot her uses that involve the security of your boat, stick to the stronger metals. Best buys on our test list are the four-hole stainless, marinium and bronze six-inch cleats, and the two hole aluminum cleat (B) at $16.95.
To deck-mount a high-load fitting like a cleat so that it's really sound and water tight, first strengthen the system by reinforcing the base. Use an under-deck pad twice the length of the cleat and one half cleat length across. On deck, use a pad about 25% longer and wider than the cleat. Use only stainless steel or bronze bolts (not screws) as recommended by the manufacturer, and stainless washers under the nuts to spread the load.
Avoid locating cleats on soft-core surfaces like balsa-core. If it 's unavoidable, then the core material must be removed and reinforced before installation, a job that's generally best left to a professional.
High School and College Sailors - 15% Off Apparel & Accessories - LEARN MORE
Sailboat Cleats provide holding power for mainsheets, jibs, halyards, and more on small sailboats. Shop our vast selection of cleat types, including cam cleats, horn cleats, clam cleats, and jam cleats. We stock cleats from reliable brands such as Ronstan, Harken, SeaDog, and more. Whether it is tweaking your control lines, or wanting a free hand while sailing, having the right cleat makes all the difference.
Subscribe to our newsletter.
Sign up for our newsletter to receive exclusive discounts, new product announcements, and upcoming sales.
When it comes to sailing and boating, there are few items more essential than boat cleats. Boat cleats provide a secure point for mooring lines and dock lines so boats can be tied up securely without drifting away or being damaged in choppy waters. But what do you need to know about boat cleats? Let’s take a look.
Boat cleats are an essential piece of hardware for any boat or vessel. Usually made from metal or plastic and shaped like an X, boat cleats provide a secure spot for lines (ropes) to be attached. Using cleats combined with lines and ties, a vessel can be safely moored to boat docks, buoys , other ships, or even land itself.
Boat cleats are essential in keeping boats safe and secure when they’re moored or tied up at docks or buoys. Multiple lines allow you to keep your vessel steady in waters with strong currents or windy conditions by providing extra security against drifting away from its mooring point.
Additionally, it prevents damage from happening due to contact between boats or between boats and docks due to bumping around caused by waves hitting them from different directions.
The primary purpose of boat cleats is to provide a secure anchor point for mooring lines so that your vessel does not drift away from its intended location while it’s docked or moored up against another boat.
Also, boat cleats can be used to secure fenders and other items around your vessel. They also provide added security when anchoring out by helping you adjust the tension on your anchor line when using a snubber .
Cleats designs are varied. Typically they are used to secure mooring lines, anchor lines, fenders, and other items. Examples include the standard-style cleats (also known as U-bolt style), folding cleats (also called pop-up cleats), which have hinged arms that fold flat when not in use; flush mount cleats which recess flush to the deck; a snap-down style that spring up from the deck when released; twist-off style which require you to unscrew them before use; and swivel eyelet style which has an eyelet at one end to attach a line.
Boat cleats come in various sizes and shapes—from small plastic clips to heavy-duty corrosion-resistant 316 stainless steel fittings. Each type of cleat is designed for use in specific ways and has unique advantages.
Perhaps the most common type is the deck cleat, also known as the flat or horn cleat. These are typically mounted along the gunwale, on the deck near the bow or stern . These cleats are used for tying up lines and fenders when docking or anchoring your boat.
There are also “hull-mounted” cleats, which attach to either side of the hull and are used for connecting mooring lines, anchor lines, and other items that need extra security during docking or anchoring operations.
Some additional types include:
The horn cleat is one of the most common boat cleats. It has two symmetrical horns extending outward from a flat base, typically made out of metal or plastic. This cleat is excellent for anchoring or tying up your boat , as its horns provide additional leverage when pulling tight on the rope. Additionally, it is easy to install and requires minimal maintenance.
The advantage of horn cleats is that they are relatively inexpensive and are designed to keep lines snugly secured when tying off a line. However, some people may find them too small for heavier lines or larger boats.
To use horn cleats, you loop your line around one horn and back around the other before tightening in place with a half hitch or similar knot.
This type of cleat is explicitly designed for mooring applications as it provides increased stability when anchoring boats . Mooring or dock cleats are typically made out of cast iron or stainless steel and offer superior strength and durability compared to other types of cleats due to their heavy construction materials.
This cleat is typically used on larger vessels as it can withstand greater force than other cleats. Dock cleats are made from different materials and come in various sizes and shapes, but they all feature two sides with a curved design that allows the rope to be tied in place quickly and easily.
Pros include its strength and durability, while cons include its bulkiness which may make them difficult to manage on smaller boats.
Folding cleats are ideal for smaller vessels since they fold away when not used. These sturdy pieces are made from either stainless steel or aluminium and come in various sizes for various applications.
Pros include their convenience and ability to stay out of the way until needed; however, they may need to be stronger for larger vessels or bigger ropes due to their folding design.
These are similar to horn cleats but have two arms instead of one, making them more stable than horn cleats. They also provide a better grip for larger lines because the arms fit around the rope securely when pulled tight, allowing for greater control when pulling in or releasing a line.
However, claw cleats can be more expensive than horn cleats due to their larger size and sturdier construction.
These are another popular option among boaters because they offer maximum holding power without taking up too much space on deck. As the name suggests, chock cleats feature two “chocks” which protrude from either side of their base unit; these chocks help ensure that your line won’t slip off no matter how hard you pull it when securing your vessel to a dock or anchor point.
Chock cleats aren’t as easy to conceal as pop-up units, but some models come with folding arms, making them easier to store away when not in use. They’re also pricier than other types, but chock cleats should be your go-to choice if you’re looking for a heavy duty and reliable way to secure your boat.
These feature two arms with an open centre between them, allowing you to loop a line through both arms at once. Open base cleats are great for securing large mooring lines as they can easily accommodate multiple turns of rope or line.
These do not feature an opening in the centre of the arms. This makes them better suited for smaller mooring lines, as there is no room for extra turns of rope or line.
Mushroom head cleats have an extensive top, making them ideal for tying off large vessels or multiple lines at once. The wider top also provides more control when releasing tension from the mooring line, which is helpful if you need to adjust your vessel’s position in a tight space quickly.
These are also known as flush mount: Pull-up cleats offer more holding power than flat cleats and extra convenience thanks to their pop-up design. To use these cleats, you press down on the top part of the unit to open up its jaws; once it has opened up enough space for your line, you loop it around just like with a flat cleat before pushing down on the top part again to close it off securely.
The major pro with pop-up cleats is that they can be easily retracted and concealed when not in use; this makes them perfect for smaller boats where space is at a premium. However, they also tend to be more expensive than horn cleats, so they may not be suitable if you’re on a tight budget.
When choosing boat cleats, there are several things to consider: size, material, design, placement, and cost. Size is important because it affects how intense the cleat will be—the larger the cleat, the stronger it can hold against strong winds and waves without breaking free from its mountings.
Material is also essential; marine-grade stainless steel offers superior strength, while plastic can work well in some cases but may need to be more secure in extreme conditions. Design matters, too; some designs provide better grip than others, so make sure you choose one with good gripping power if possible.
Finally, placement is critical; make sure you install them where crew members can easily reach them when needed but also far enough away from potential hazards like obstacles on deck or railings where they could get damaged during use.
The four most popular materials for making boat cleats are stainless steel, aluminium, nylon, and plastic.
Stainless steel is a popular choice due to its durability and corrosion resistance. It won’t rust or corrode easily in saltwater environments and can withstand harsh weather conditions. 316 Stainless steel is also strong enough to hold up against heavy loads and provides excellent holding on dock lines or other mooring ropes.
The main downside of stainless steel construction is that it requires regular maintenance and cleaning to keep it looking good, and it can be pretty expensive compared to other materials and may not be the best option if you are on a tight budget.
Marine grade aluminium is another excellent material for boat cleats because it is lightweight yet strong and corrosion-resistant. They are strong enough to withstand heavy loads while providing excellent grip on dock lines or mooring ropes.
However, aluminium is less strong than stainless steel, so it may not be suitable for large boats requiring heavier rope or line loads.
Nylon cleats are an excellent choice if you need a lightweight yet strong material for your boat cleats. Nylon has excellent corrosion resistance, which makes it ideal for use in saltwater environments, and it also offers good flexibility and durability when exposed to extreme temperatures or weather conditions.
Nylon won’t rust like metal materials but may become brittle if exposed to ultraviolet light.
Plastic is another affordable option that offers good corrosion resistance and impact resistance against waves or debris in the water. Plastic cleats are lightweight, cost-effective, and durable enough to withstand harsh conditions in the water without breaking down easily over time.
The downside of plastic is that it may be weaker than some of the other materials mentioned above, so you should consider this when deciding which material is suitable for you.
Choosing the right boat cleat is essential—it must be strong enough to handle heavy loads without breaking or becoming loose over time yet small enough not to interfere with any other equipment aboard your vessel.
It should also be constructed from a durable material that can resist saltwater corrosion without needing too much maintenance over its lifetime.
There are several different types available depending on the size of your vessel and what kind of conditions you’ll be sailing in – stainless steel being the most durable and plastic being more affordable – so it’s essential to do some research before opting for one type over another. Additionally, regular inspections and maintenance should be done to ensure maximum safety.
Now that you know a bit more about boat cleats, it’s time to put them to good use! This small but mighty hardware can make all the difference when mooring your vessel. Your boat cleats will provide years of safe and reliable service with proper installation and care. Do you have any tips for using or caring for boat cleats? Share them with us in the comments below!
All you need to know about boat slips, related posts, the importance of the kill cord, boat head system: a comprehensive guide, sea water strainer: an essential guide.
© 2023 TIGERLILY GROUP LTD, 27 Old Gloucester Street, London, WC1N 3AX, UK. Registered Company in England & Wales. Company No. 14743614
Login to your account below
Remember Me
Please enter your username or email address to reset your password.
- Select Visibility - Public Private
Access to this page has been denied because we believe you are using automation tools to browse the website.
This may happen as a result of the following:
Please make sure that Javascript and cookies are enabled on your browser and that you are not blocking them from loading.
Reference ID: 59b85718-6add-11ef-926e-c36bd3d98e62
Powered by PerimeterX , Inc.
In the 90s, the Boat US Foundation performed a study of deck cleat strength. Testing was performed using 6-inch cleats of a number of materials and designs, which were pulled from several directions. The standard vendor recommendation is 1/16-inch of line size for each inch of cleat, so these cleats are recommended for use with 3/8-inch line (breaking strength 4,200 pounds, working load limit 525 pounds). All but the nylon cleat had working load limits (assume 4:1 safety factor for metals) greater than nylon rope. Most were nearly as strong as the rope, but only two were stronger than the rope in all directions. We can expect strength to go up roughly as the square of size, roughly matching rope strength as we go. Only a few broken cleats were noted among the boats damaged by Hurricane Irma. More commonly, the cleats pulled out of the deck.
Obviously, cleats need a firm backing. A strong, well-engineered deck helps, but backing plates are essential (see How Big Does a Backing Plate Need to Be? PS August 2016).
Watch the angle formed when the line goes through the chock. You may not be able reduce the downward angle, but any pressure against sharp edges will weaken the line by 20 to 50 percent. Avoid sharp turns, which forces fibers on the outside of the turn to carry most of the load. Try to keep the runs straight, and pad the turns with heavy chafe gear.
Bottom line. Cleats and chocks must be sized for the required line size, which for storm-mooring a 35-foot yacht requires 7/8-inch line and 14-inch cleats. However, it is a rare 35-foot boat that has cleats over 10 inches. This is a challenge.
For the full report on cleat strength from the BoatUS Foundation, see https://www.boatus.org/findings/16/ .
Leave a reply cancel reply.
Log in to leave a comment
Latest sailboat review.
Currency: GBP
Deck hardware support.
Lifejacket accessories.
Clothing guide.
Lower Fore St, Beer, East Devon, EX12 3EG
Clearance LIROS Racer Dyneema £55.08
Clearance Folding Stock Anchor £123.25
Clearance Sarca Excel Anchors £294.00
Clearance LIROS Herkules £0.00
Clearance Barton Size 0 Ball Bearing Blocks - 5mm £0.00
Clearance Marlow Blue Ocean® Doublebraid £18.48
Anchoring clearance, standing rigging clearance, running rigging clearance, deck hardware clearance, chandlery clearance, safety clearance.
The term 'Cleats' covers a multitude of different configurations designed to grip, restrain and secure the load on a rope. This category covers those cleats that are used for quick grip and release in running rigging applications plus traditional shaped cleats for securing a line where adjustment is not the priority.
There are three main designs or concepts for Running Rigging Cleats:
Cam Cleats - This design is based on a pair of ribbed, spring-loaded cams that pinch together and won't let the rope through one way while allowing free movement in the opposite direction. The line can be tightened by pulling through the cleat and released when under load with a firm upward jerk.
Jam C leats - This design is based on a V shaped slot with fluted ribs to provide the grip. There are no moving parts. The jamming element secures the line in one direction and allows release by taking the tension off the cleat and lifting the line clear of the jaws. Clamcleats produce a wide range of jamming cleats for dinghy applications, but also for adjustable fender lanyards.
Roller Cam Cleats - This design works in a similar way to a rope clutch with vertical pressure applied via a single internal cam to grip the rope. The Spinlock version is very compact, efficient and ergonomic.
There is also the traditional shape and design: T or Horn Shape Cleats - These are typically used for e.g. flag halyard cleats, mast base halyard cleats positioned below a winch or clutch.
Cleats for Mooring or Anchoring feature separately.
Please note that Rope Clutches perform a similar function to jam and cam cleats.
Barton quick cleat, petersen halyard cleats, spinlock pxr cleat - fixed, spinlock pxr cleat - swivel, spinlock pxr cleat - retro fit, spinlock pxr cleat - vertical pivot.
Selden cam cleats - composite.
Harken carbo cam cleats.
If you’re installing a new dock or replacing some existing cleats, there are several things to know before purchasing a set of these. Several factors come into play, including length, material, and some personal preference options worth understanding.
In this post, I’ll break down what to know about dock cleats in general so you will be able to select the right choice for your dock.
The main difference between boat cleats and dock cleats is that boat cleats are going to come on your boat from the manufacturer and really dictate the diameter of rope needed to support your boat.
While boat cleats and dock cleats may look similar, the main differences are the way they are mounted. Typically dock cleats will be much larger, especially at marinas, in order to accommodate for larger boats that require thicker rope to secure.
As a rule of thumb, the bigger the dock cleat the better. While both boat cleats and dock cleats have similar designs and styles, it’s important to ensure that whatever dock cleat you mount will be able to support the weight of any boat that could possibly tie up to the dock.
When it comes to selecting a type of cleat, one thing to keep in mind is that many of these designs aren’t necessarily better than any of the others, they are simply based on personal preference. When it comes to strength, most of the galvanized cast iron dock cleats are the traditional horn style dock cleats, and generally the strongest and most popular.
The common type of dock cleat you’re likely to see are horn-style dock cleats. These come in a variety of materials, and most larger cleats fall into this category.
Flip up dock cleats (or fold-up) are one of a couple of types of cleats you can purchase that are designed to stay hidden when not in use. While they function like standard horn-style dock cleats, typically you will find these in smaller sizes, since they include hinges.
As a general rule, the less moving parts the better (when it comes to securing large boats), but these are a fine option for smaller boats found in lakes or reservoirs.
Similar to flip-up cleats, pop-up (or pull-up)cleats are usually stainless steel, and designed to stay out of the way. While these aren’t ideal for larger boats due to their moving parts, you really never have to worry about stubbing toes with these.
With pop-up cleats these come with backing plates, which allow you to secure them to the underside of the dock.
These dock cleats are popular for their look and general form factor. Some people prefer the “S” shape, because it makes it easier to loop rope around and tie off as opposed to standard horn-style cleats.
As opposed to a dock cleat, mooring bollard is actually a short vertical post used as an anchor point for ships. Similar to typical dock cleats, you can also find mooring cleats, which all have a vertical protrusion.
The main difference in these is that the mooring cleat (or bit) come in S or T types for consumer use, but typically mooring lines and bollards are referred to in the context of larger ships.
Mooring bollards are more practical in design for securing yachts and ships with numerous lines as opposed to cleats, which commonly secure a smaller boats and aren’t designed to handle very thick rope.
When it comes to materials, there are several options to consider before making a selection. Some are more expensive than others, as well as generally less resistant to tension and wear, so these factors must be considered. For most people with relatively smaller boats, it really comes down to cost.
Since nylon is really just a synthetic polymer or plastic made, these will typically be the cheapest of any dock cleat on the market. With that said, these do tend to be the weakest of any type of cleat, and not meant to handle larger boats.
While theses are generally less common, they do make plastic dock cleats in the horn type which can be more economical if you plan to install a large quantity of these.
The most common variety you will see are stainless steel dock cleats, due to their resistance to the elements. The main difference in aluminum vs stainless steel cleats in general is their resistance to corrosion.
The strongest and heaviest of all dock cleats fall in the cast iron category as you might expect, and while not shiny like stainless steel, they are a solid option, especially at the coast.
These you typically see on concrete docks as well. Since they are heavier, you will want to make sure they are installed correctly and secured according to specifications.
The strength of dock cleats depends on several factors like build material, fasteners and backing plates, number of holes, strength of the rope, and the integrity of the plank you are attaching it to.
Any one failure of any of these components can cause a dock cleat to fail. This article on the Boat US Foundation website breaks down dock cleat failure loads and several other factors to consider based on material.
As a general rule, many dock owners install dock cleats 7 to 10 feet apart, depending on the size and number of boats expected to use them.
For smaller boats, using at minimum two dock cleats is typically perfectly okay: one for the bow line, one for the stern line, and both of the cleats supporting the spring line.
This diagram from BoatUS.com helps to illustrate a typical dock line configuration in relation to the cleats.
For boats around 21 feet or less, you will need ⅛ inch diameter dock line for every 9 feet of boat .
For example, if you have a 36 foot boat, will need ½ inch diameter rope, since (36/9) x (1/8)= 1/2.
In inches (from tip-to-tip), your dock cleat should be one inch for every 1/16th of dock line you use.
For example, if your dock line is 1/2 of an inch thick, and there are eight sixteenths in ½ of an inch, you would need the cleat to be 8 inches long from tip to tip.
To install dock cleats, secure them to the underside of a single plank using included hardware; heavy-duty dock cleats made of cast iron include a joist corner which should be mounted to the bottom of the plank and the post, forming a right angle . By anchoring a dock cleat to a post and plank, stress on the plank is reduced (which can cause the plank to break or come loose).
Below is a helpful video that describes this process. These are secured by carriage bolts, with lock washers and nuts.
Tip : Never install dock cleats in between two boards; you can end up putting unwanted stress on the boards, causing them to crack, become loose, or even break.
You might also want to check out my post on boat dock railings if you’re giving your dock an upgrade.
Now that you know all about dock cleats, consider the following factors before you purchase a kit:
I hope this post has helped! Be sure to check out this post where I cover dock lines 101 for beginners on a few best practices.
This post was updated on August 3rd, 2022.
Wood Dock Preservation 101: 4 Sealants and Products to Use
The Ultimate Guide to Boat Lift Types and How to Choose
10 Simple and Practical Boat Dock Gift Ideas
Dock Rod Holders 101: What to Know Before Purchase
Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.
IMAGES
VIDEO
COMMENTS
Learn about the different types of cleats used on a sailboat, such as horn, cam, jam, clam, V, jammers, rope clutches, deck, and fairlead cleats. See photos and recommendations for each type of cleat and its applications.
Learn everything you need to know about boat cleats, from choosing the right material and shape to installing and using them effectively. Find out the difference between horn cleats, foldable cleats, and S-shape cleats, and how to tie a cleat hitch correctly.
The concept of a cleat as a securing mechanism goes back to the 1400s, when antecedents to modern horn-type belaying cleats began to arrive on the scene. Eventually iron and bronze cast renditions were bolted to timber deck planking that incorporated additional under-deck reinforcement and load-spreading backing blocks.
Learn about the different types of sailboat cleats, such as horn, cam, clam, jib and deck cleats, and how they are made of metal, plastic or wood. Find out how to tie a cleat knot and why cleats are essential for sailing safety and control.
Simple cleats. For lightly loaded control lines (up to 150kg) used without winches, it's possible to use clam cleats, jam cleats or cam cleats if they are up to the job. As the loads increase, and unless you have a winch for each line, you'll need a rope clutch or jammer ahead of the winch to hold the load of one line while. you winch in ...
A cleat is a tie-down point or securing device mounted to the deck of a sailboat. Cleats secure lines for rigging and docking. Cleats are an iconic piece of maritime technology that's not limited to sailboats. However, one could argue that cleats are more important on sailboats than any other kind of vessel. There are two types of cleats found ...
The general rule is fairly simple: Cleat length from tip to tip should be 1" for every 1/16" of line diameter and dock lines should be 1/8" of diameter for every 9 feet of boat length. Let's consider a brief example. If your boat is 40' in length, it requires 1/2" dock lines. Using 1/2" dock lines means that your cleats need to be 8" long to ...
Types of cleat designs include the following: A horn cleat is the traditional design, ... The upper part is tapered so that the space between the cleat and the boat gets smaller closer to the screws, causing the rope to jam in the cleat when it is pulled downward. A large mooring cleat. Cam cleat: the rope passes between two cams, which resist ...
A boat cleat is a fixture used to secure lines of rope on the vessel itself. Mounted on the gunwale, its horns serve as tying-off points for the lines. Variations allow it to fulfill more than one purpose. Table of Contents [hide] Overview of a Cleat on a Boat. Importance of Boat Cleats. Different Types of Boat Cleats.
Most boats from 30 to 40ft will have a range of different-sized clutches, depending on the loads and the rope diameter in use. As you get to LOAs of 50 to 55ft, though, you'll start to see more jammers, for things like halyards and headsail sheets, with clutches managing things like travelers and vangs. At 65ft and up, jammers start to become ...
Cleats. By The Rigging Company April 30, 2014. The Clam Cleat. In today's sailboat hardware market we will find 3 primary types of cleats. Cam Cleats, Clam Cleats, and Horn Cleats. The clam cleat is almost obsolete in today's sailboat technology. The main problem with them is that they are difficult to secure and easy to un-cleat.
The horn cleat is one of the most traditional and widely used types of boat cleats. Its distinctive shape resembles two curved horns facing upwards. This design allows for easy tying and securing of ropes at various angles. Horn cleats are commonly found on both powerboats and sailboats. 2.
VIDEO. 2 March 2020. 417 Less than a minute. Sailboat cleats are fittings to which a line is secured, either temporarily or permanently. In this video the Annapolis Performance Sailing expert is going to explain the seven main sailboat cleat types found on sailboats, and some of their uses: Horn Cleats. Self-Jamming Horn Cleats.
Cleat Types & Failure Loads. ... Nylon or plastic cleats are fine for small boat rigging, flags and other low-load applications, but for moorings, docking, and ot her uses that involve the security of your boat, stick to the stronger metals. Best buys on our test list are the four-hole stainless, marinium and bronze six-inch cleats, and the two ...
1. Casting metal parts has been a technology in use for at least 6,000 years, and it remains the preferred approach when it comes to manufacturing sailboat cleats. Modern investment casting yields smooth symmetrical surfaces in need of less polishing. The approach can be used with zinc, aluminum, bronze, and stainless steel.
The popular rule of thumb says that for every 1/16" of rope diameter, you need 1" of cleat length. For example, 1/2" rope is the same as 8/16", so you'll need an 8" cleat. Another popular rule of thumb says that dock and mooring lines should be 1/8" thick for every 9' of boat length. So a 36' boat should be rigged with 1/2 ...
Sailboat Cleats provide holding power for mainsheets, jibs, halyards, and more on small sailboats. Shop our vast selection of cleat types, including cam cleats, horn cleats, clam cleats, and jam cleats. We stock cleats from reliable brands such as Ronstan, Harken, SeaDog, and more. Whether it is tweaking your control lines, or wanting a free ...
Boat cleats are essential hardware used to secure lines (ropes) to a boat or vessel. Different types of boat cleats include deck, horn, dock, folding, claw cleats, chock, open base, closed base, mushroom head, and pull-up cleats. Stainless steel, aluminium, nylon, and plastic are the four most popular materials used to make boat cleats.
Medium Bulls-Eye Fairlead/Cleat for 5/32"-1/2" Rope. CONTACT WEST MARINE. Live Chat. Store Locator. Find the perfect sailboat cleats for secure and efficient rigging. Our selection of durable sailing cleats is designed for reliability in all conditions, ensuring your lines are always secure. Shop high-quality sailing hardware today.
Cleats for boats options in aluminum and galvanized finishes; Fender cleats and various distinctive designs; Folding boat cleats to save your toes. Our experts can help you choose the right cleats for your boat. They will consider the type, material, and size that best fits your boat's needs. Whether you own a sailboat, pontoon boat, or motor ...
In the 90s, the Boat US Foundation performed a study of deck cleat strength. Testing was performed using 6-inch cleats of a number of materials and designs, which were pulled from several directions. The standard vendor recommendation is 1/16-inch of line size for each inch of cleat, so these cleats are recommended for use with 3/8-inch line ...
There are three main designs or concepts for Running Rigging Cleats: Cam Cleats - This design is based on a pair of ribbed, spring-loaded cams that pinch together and won't let the rope through one way while allowing free movement in the opposite direction. The line can be tightened by pulling through the cleat and released when under load with ...
While boat cleats and dock cleats may look similar, the main differences are the way they are mounted. Typically dock cleats will be much larger, especially at marinas, in order to accommodate for larger boats that require thicker rope to secure. As a rule of thumb, the bigger the dock cleat the better. While both boat cleats and dock cleats ...